How to waterproof a log house from the foundation? What to put between the foundation and the timber How to isolate the foundation from the log house

An important aspect in wood construction is to prevent the wood from constantly coming into contact with water. Weather precipitation is excluded, because rain and snow are short-term phenomena and the absorption of a log or timber depends more on the care of the owner himself. It is he who will have to foresee everything and take measures in advance to process the wooden elements. However, there is one area of ​​the house that will always have a risk of interaction with water - this is the foundation, and protecting it is the most important task of the owner.

Types of waterproofing

The laid waterproofing between the foundation and the log house has two types:

1. Anti-filtration. Designed for aggressive environments and capricious soils. There are often large amounts of chemical elements dissolved in the soil, which can affect the composition of the foundation and have an unfavorable effect, slowly destroying it.
2. Anti-corrosion. The condition of the wood directly depends on it - the waterproofing layer should not allow rot and, as a consequence, other damage.

Features of waterproofing work

Let's consider the first option, which must be laid before pouring concrete. Then there will be no meaning anymore. The owner must understand this even at the stage of determining the soil and foundation model for construction.

The main stages and features of doing waterproofing yourself:

1. When the ditches and formwork are ready, add a layer of sand to the bottom and compact it thoroughly, pouring water several times. Then crushed stone is poured on top of it and compacted as well. In total, both layers should not be less than 30 cm.

Only then are the remaining layers of the foundation cushion laid, and everything is poured with concrete. What's the point? The sand will serve as a filter for groundwater and, when it rises, will have a retarding effect on the chemical elements dissolved in it.

Video: Waterproofing a log house with birch bark

And the water itself will not stay in it for long. This should be taken into account by owners whose houses are located near industrial enterprises, car parks, farms and other things. Waste products will definitely end up in the soil, and who knows how it will behave when it meets the base.

Video: Seal the gap between the log house and the foundation

2. The second option is familiar in understanding - the wood should not come into contact with water. Waterproofing a log house from the foundation is done by creating layers between two different surfaces. This process has several methods - coating, glued and gasketing.

• For the first, bitumen mastic or liquid resin is used. Having brought them to the state of paint, the prepared foundation, freed from the formwork, is coated very carefully, without leaving any white spots. The work is carried out in several layers after the previous one has dried.

• The next method is glued. For it, roofing material is used, which is also heated and tightly applied to the surface of the foundation. You can't get by with just one layer. Two are mandatory, three depending on the condition of the soil.
• The third method, in which waterproofing the foundation for a log house will last almost forever, involves the use of progressive means of protection from the current industry.

We are talking about styrene. Foam derivatives are the best moisture protectors today. How to apply them:

Sheets of polystyrene foam, expanded polystyrene, or an extruded derivative material are placed in a compacted ditch along the perimeter of the walls of the entire foundation. You can attach them “to the core”; anyway, the filling and the reinforcement will press as it should. In this way, the entire base is processed.

But before this, the surface must be dried from moisture and tarred, but while the bitumen is hot, it is convenient to glue the slabs. Needless to say, the first crown in this case is also coated.

This is how the foundation is waterproofed. You can combine insulation and protection from moisture using the third method - laying styrene, then the cost of additional materials will be reduced, which will reduce the cost of independent construction.

Waterproofing of residential log house and bathhouse

Protection from moisture is not only required for the foundation - the living space also needs it. For this purpose, a kind of pie is laid - in addition to insulation, layers of hydro- and vapor barrier are laid both inside and outside. However, this is intended for such residential log houses that do not require cladding.

The bathhouse is the “wettest” room. Moreover, all its premises are in constant contact with steam. But it cannot be impregnated, with the exception of particularly advanced compounds or waste oil.

There is only one way out - the bathhouse must have good ventilation and water flow. To do this, the floor is constructed in such a way that it looks like a concrete pad at an angle.

Video: Refinement of the foundation for the casing. Do-it-yourself log house. Part 7/4

The height of the clean coating in this case should be at a decent distance from it. Impregnations to ensure that the waterproofing of the bathhouse frame is up to standard are mandatory, but only with the appropriate markings, otherwise it will not improve anyone’s health.

If, during the construction of a residential building, the waterproofing of the foundation was carried out in violation of technology, without taking into account the groundwater level or the amount of precipitation in the construction region, then over time the basement will turn into a swimming pool, a breeding ground for fungi and mold. To correct the situation, you will need to waterproof the foundation on the inside of the house. For this, different technologies and materials can be used. The choice of waterproofing method should be made depending on the degree of destructive effects of moisture on the floor and walls of the basement or cellar. Even if a house is built from a log frame or profiled timber, its foundation needs high-quality waterproofing.

Features of internal waterproofing

External waterproofing of the foundation is considered the most effective. But if problems appear during the operation of the finished house, then the only way out of the situation will be internal waterproofing of the basement from groundwater. At the same time, log houses are no exception, because their foundation can also be subject to the destructive effects of moisture below the base level.

For internal protection of the foundation of a private house, special compounds can be used:

• paints with insulating properties;
• bitumen mixtures;
• rolled waterproofing materials, for example, roofing felt;
• sheet metal;
• compositions based on bentonite clay;
• polymer waterproofing mixtures.

Depending on where the base of the house gets wet, internal horizontal or vertical insulation can be performed. The easiest way to waterproof a foundation from the inside, which you can do yourself, is to treat the walls, floor and ceilings between the basement and the living floor with insulating paints. To be effective, it is better to use at least three layers of paint.

Types of basement waterproofing

All methods of insulating basement walls from moisture can be divided into several types:

1. Anti-pressure insulation. Such protection is needed when the destructive effects of groundwater with a pressure above 10 m on the foundations of houses made of timber, logs, brick or concrete. For this purpose, membrane and roll seals and liquid rubber are used. The essence of the method: the insulating material is pressed by the pressure of groundwater to the outer surface of the fall. Previously, this method could only be used for external insulation, but now there are materials used internally.
2. Non-pressure insulation. This type of protection is needed to prevent the damaging effects of melt water and precipitation on the walls of the building. Such insulation is needed even for the basement of a house made of logs or timber. Polymer-bitumen mastics are used for work.
3. Anti-capillary protection(penetrating insulation). This type of insulation will help protect foundation structures from the destructive effects of moisture penetrating through the building envelope. To do this, the walls, basement, floor and ceiling between the basement and the first floor are treated with slurry solutions, bitumen mastics and special impregnating mixtures.
4. Injection insulation. This method of insulating the basement walls of a private house is performed using packers (needles) and special equipment that, under high pressure, delivers components deep into the foundation structure.

In order for internal waterproofing to be as effective as possible, when choosing materials for work, it is worth taking into account their characteristics. For example, in order to reliably protect reinforcement, you need to choose compounds with anti-corrosion properties, and sealing mixtures are suitable for seams and joints between individual structural elements. For reliable protection against moisture penetration through structures, you will need to use solutions with antifiltration properties.

If you are going to insulate the foundation walls from the inside with your own hands, then keep in mind that cement-based solutions have excellent anti-filtration properties. After hardening, they expand, due to which they tightly fill the cracks and protect well from moisture penetration. Bitumen mastics are used for walls where it is necessary to obtain elastic and durable protection. Therefore, they are more suitable for houses made of stone, and not of timber or logs, because the foundation of stone structures is more susceptible to deformation.

Advice: to protect the floors above the basement, it is better to use polymer films.

If you are going to do all the work yourself, then special attention should be paid to:

• places where two surfaces meet, for example, at the seam between the wall and the floor, the ceiling and the walls, corners;
• seams that formed during concreting or after removing the formwork, as well as seams between structural elements of walls and ceilings;
• places where engineering communications are laid;
• cracks formed during the shrinkage of the old house.

Vertical internal waterproofing

Waterproofing foundation walls made of stone or brick is called vertical. Moreover, such insulation is also needed for structures made of profiled timber or logs, because the base of a wooden house is also made of artificial or natural stone materials. Typically, internal vertical insulation is done at the level of the basement of the house.

For the inside of the basement walls below the plinth, traditional plaster waterproofing using modified mortars is suitable. This method is the simplest and most inexpensive, so you can do it yourself. Waterproofing can be done using the following materials:

• primer composition;
• polymer or bitumen mastics;
• brush and spatula of sufficient size.

Work on waterproofing the foundation walls below the base is carried out in the following order:

1. First you need to thoroughly clean the walls of dust and dirt.
2. All surfaces are primed.
3. After the solution has dried, all that remains is to do the waterproofing.
4. When the first layer has dried, you can apply the leveling layer.

Tip: the universal composition Penetron (penetrating insulation) is suitable for insulating concrete and monolithic basement walls. An equally effective remedy for any surface is liquid rubber, which can be applied to wet or dry basement walls, inside and out.

Horizontal internal waterproofing

Waterproofing the foundation requires treating the basement floor. This type of insulation is usually called horizontal insulation. The most inexpensive and accessible method of insulation is performed using roll and sheet materials. To lay horizontal insulation from bitumen roll materials, gluing with special adhesives is used, and the use of polymer materials requires the use of special primer solutions.

To carry out horizontal waterproofing of the basement floor you will need: roll insulating materials, primer, adhesives, a knife for cutting the material, a trowel, a brush. The work is carried out in the following order:

1. If there is water in the basement, it needs to be pumped out and the room dried.

Important: in order to dry the basement well, you need to provide ventilation to the room.

1. Then you need to clean the seams and cracks in the concrete floor covering to a depth of 5 cm.
2. We treat the floor surface and cracks with a primer.
3. We seal all cracks with cement mortar.
4. Now you can waterproof the basement floor. To do this, we lay roofing felt or other rolled material on heated bitumen. It is better to lay two layers of insulation.
5. Then you can fill the screed.

To insulate the basement floor of an old house, it is better to use two-polymer self-leveling insulation from a mixture of cement, sand and binders. This method is also suitable for houses made of timber or logs, where high-quality insulation of the basement from moisture is very important.

Materials and technologies

To insulate the base, floor and foundation of a house, coating waterproofing made from polymer and bitumen mastics, as well as weld-on insulation, are most often used. Such materials are suitable for basements of houses made of profiled timber, stone, brick, concrete.

The disadvantages of coated and weld-on insulation are swelling and peeling at low water pressure due to hydrostatic pressure.

More effective modern methods of insulating the base are penetrating waterproofing, mineral-based coating compounds, membrane materials, liquid rubber and glass insulation. Such insulation is suitable even for the old foundation of a house made of timber.

Rolled materials for waterproofing

Insulation of the base with roll materials on a bitumen or polymer basis is called lining. Roofing felt, roofing felt, glass roofing felt, foil isolon, hydroisol, brizol are used. They can be glued to cold or hot bitumen mastic and fused. The method is suitable for houses made of timber and logs.

The waterproofing is glued to the cleaned and dried walls of the basement from the inside. To do this, bitumen mastic is first applied. It is necessary to overlap the strips by 15 cm. The material is also wrapped by 15 cm at the joints between the walls and the floor.

Advantages:

• low price;
• the ability to carry out work independently.

Flaws:

• at low temperatures such insulation becomes brittle and breaks easily;
• rolled materials are susceptible to damage by fungi and mold;
• the effectiveness of insulation depends on the quality of the work performed.

Membrane insulation

Previously, this type of roll waterproofing was intended for external pressure insulation of the foundation. But now a membrane material has appeared for internal use. It is ideal for basement insulation in houses made of profiled timber and other wood materials. Cone-shaped spikes on the surface of the material perfectly remove accumulated moisture.

Before using membrane protection, the basement walls must be cleared of debris, cracks and crevices between structural elements must be sealed, and the surface must be primed. The membrane is attached to the walls with dowels. The open ends of the membrane must be secured with a horizontal insulating layer.

• long service life;
• Possibility of use on damp walls;
• Suitable for self-application.

Cons – cannot be used without horizontal waterproofing of the foundation.

Penetrating insulation

This insulation inside the house penetrates through microcapillaries and cracks in the basement envelope and crystallizes there. The process occurs due to the use of penetrates (alkali metal carbonates, silica, aluminum oxide) in the composition. As a result, the foundation walls become impenetrable. Insulation is suitable for houses made of timber, stone, brick and concrete with block and concrete monolithic foundations.

Advantages:

• high efficiency due to penetration deep into the material;
• the frost resistance of concrete basement structures increases;
• suitable for DIY application;
• thorough plugging of even small cracks;
• such insulation cannot be damaged;
• durability.

Application method:

1. To open the pores of the concrete, the surface must be thoroughly degreased and cleaned. To do this, you can use a wire brush or a water jet.
2. The solution is being prepared.
3. The composition is applied to the damp inner surface of the foundation. In this case, first the joints between the walls and the floor and the corners are processed, and then the solution is applied to the walls.
4. After two hours, you can apply the second layer of the composition.
5. To ensure uniform hardening of the solution, the surface must be moistened for several more days after waterproofing.

It is important to know: in order for the solution to penetrate to a depth of half a meter in the foundation structure, several layers will need to be applied.

More details about the use of penetrating waterproofing can be seen in the following video:

Injection insulation

To install such waterproofing, a liquid gel-like composition must be introduced into special holes in the foundation. For these purposes, microcement, polyurethane, epoxy or acrylic gel are used.

19.07.2016

Any construction begins with a foundation. What is it for? The task of this structure is to bear the weight of the entire structure and take the entire load and distribute it evenly over the entire area. How reliable the foundation is will determine how long your building will last and for how long. One of the most negative influences on the foundation is water. Therefore, it is important to ensure that the foundation waterproofing is done correctly. In the article you can read about what waterproofing is, what it is like and what it is.

Vertical and horizontal waterproofing

Vertical waterproofing is carried out in a place located between the base of the foundation and the level of rainwater ingress when splashing. It requires a particularly careful approach to the quality of the material used, or more precisely to its moisture resistance, which will guarantee that the floor in the bathhouse will not be damaged by water. The main task of this type of insulation is to provide reliable protection at the points where horizontal insulation is discharged and directly at the joints of the vertical insulation itself. Taking into account all the nuances, be it the thickness of the layer, the choice of soil, as well as the installation of various protections using polystyrene foam boards, asbestos cement sheets and other protective materials, should be carried out at the design stage and when backfilling the pit.

As for horizontal waterproofing, it is used to protect walls from capillary absorption of moisture and consists of several layers of bitumen roofing material. Usually, two horizontal waterproofings, independent of each other, are made. The first is located under the basement floor, and the second is at the support points of the walls on top of the foundation slabs. It is worth remembering the need for a reliable connection of horizontal and vertical insulation at their joints, as well as both horizontal insulation in the floor area.

Materials used and methods of application

There are several types based on the method of applying insulation: pasting, coating and plastering.

Pasted insulation is a multi-layer water-repellent membrane, which consists of polycement bitumen films with a density of up to 5 mm. This method is widely used to protect structures made of brick, concrete or reinforced concrete. It is characterized by ease of application, by pressing tightly to the surface and heating with a gas burner, an effective water-repellent effect and resistance to cracks. However, with this type of insulation, additional pressure walls or ties are required to achieve the required effect.

Another type of insulation application is the so-called coating insulation, consisting of membranes, but up to 3 mm thick. For this type, special bitumen-polymer emulsions and mastics, as well as elastic or rigid polymer solutions, are widely used. Application of this insulation is also quite simple. The insulation is applied with spatulas, specialized paint floats and even sprayers.

Plaster insulation is nothing more than several layers of various insulating solutions up to 22 mm thick. The materials widely used are mineral-cement mortar with various additives to increase moisture resistance, polymer concrete, hydroconcrete, asphalt mastics, etc. It is excellent for horizontal waterproofing, however, plaster insulation must be applied only using a hot method to avoid the appearance of cracks.

Waterproofing the foundation of a log bathhouse - some features

It must be remembered that in brick and stone foundations, waterproofing is usually laid 15-25 cm from the ground level, and if it is placed on beams, then the insulation should be located 5-15 cm below them.

Do not forget about treating the bottom layer of the crowns with antiseptics and, importantly, the impregnation of this area should be even more than the entire log house as a whole. The existing voids must be filled with expanded clay, but it is worth considering the fact that expanded clay will effectively perform its functions with a layer thickness of 40 cm or more.

If the house has a basement, waterproofing must be placed in the foundation at the same level as the floor or 13 cm below it and in the base 15-25 cm above the surface of the blind area.

It is also necessary to take into account the groundwater level. So, if groundwater lies below the basement floor, then the outer side of the wall, which is in contact with the ground, is covered with two layers of hot bitumen, and a 25-centimeter layer of greasy clay is placed on the basement floor. After compacting the clay, it is covered with 5 cm. The concrete is leveled, kept for 10-14 days, and then treated with mastic and several layers of roofing material are glued. Finally, the same layer of concrete is laid and leveled, which is then covered with cement mortar and reinforced.

In the event that groundwater is located above the basement floor level, it is necessary to carry out high-quality insulation of both the walls and the floor. An important point is to create around the walls at the points where they connect with the basement floor, a so-called elastic lock made of tow soaked in bitumen mastic. This type of lock is especially relevant in basements with clay soil and uneven settlement.

The insulation of the walls on the outside is usually raised 50 cm above the groundwater level.

Insulation of the underground, if the groundwater level is sufficiently high, is carried out in the following sequence: a layer of clay 25 cm thick, concrete, waterproofing, cement mortar.

If the basement contains windows that are located below ground level, then in front of such windows it is necessary to construct so-called pit wells with walls lined with stone, brick or concrete. The bottom of the pit must have a reservoir for water, and canopies must be installed above the windows.

The foundation is also subject to heavy loads in winter, when the soil freezes. Therefore, to protect the base from freezing, it is necessary to take into account a number of important points. Thus, the freezing depth is influenced by climate (thickness of snow cover, temperature), and the type of soil, as well as the temperature inside the building. For example, non-freeze types of bases include rock, coarse sand and gravel. It is easy to guess that on freezing soils the foundation must be laid below the maximum soil freezing level.

However, it should be remembered that deep (below the freezing level) laying of the foundation is not always decisive and effective. On the one hand, the vertical force of frost heaving ceases to act on the bottom of the foundation, on the other hand, the impact of the tangential force of frost heaving can tear the upper part of the foundation from the bottom or even pull it out along with the frozen soil. This is possible if the foundation is made of stone, brick or small blocks and such a foundation is located under small buildings. Therefore, to eliminate the tangential force of heaving, a reinforcement frame is laid inside the foundation along the entire height, which reliably connects the top and bottom of the foundation, and the base of the foundation is expanded, it takes the form of a support platform-anchor, which in turn prevents the foundation from being pulled out of the ground during frost heaving soil.

However, such a constructive solution is only possible when using reinforced concrete. However, when constructing a foundation of stone, brick or small blocks, where vertical reinforcement is not provided, it is possible to prevent the adverse effects of the tangential force of frost heaving. To do this, it is necessary that the foundation walls have a slope and taper upward.

Video about foundation protection:

"Foundation waterproofing device":

Conclusion

To summarize, it can be noted that waterproofing the foundation of a bathhouse or house does not present any particular difficulties and can easily be done with your own hands, taking into account all the small features and using the most effective and latest means and materials.

If a theater begins with a hanger, then a house begins with a foundation. The foundation is not just a part of the house designed to compensate for the load of the weight of the house on the ground, but also the key to the long and safe operation of the structure. There are many requirements for the foundation of buildings, but perhaps one of the main ones is its reliable waterproofing. Especially if this concerns the construction of cast foundations for houses built of wood (log house, rounded logs, timber, frame construction, etc.)

— Preparatory work for waterproofing the foundation
One of the reasons for the rapid destruction of wooden houses is the rise of groundwater along the body of the foundation and its transfer to the structure of the house. Initially, moldy fungi penetrate into places where moisture accumulates, the result of which is the rotting of the timber, and then its complete destruction. Therefore, when carrying out foundation work, the primary stage of waterproofing is that any rolled waterproofing material is placed into the prepared trench or formwork (the most common option is construction roofing felt). It is this that will create the primary obstacle to the penetration of ground moisture into the porous structure of concrete. Many builders do not do this part of the waterproofing, believing that it is not important, however, as experience in the construction of low-rise construction of wooden houses from timber shows, the absence of such protection leads to saturation of the concrete structure with moisture, which, freezing in winter, expands and destroys it. In about 15 years, such a foundation, in wet soils, becomes completely unusable. In a word, the entire part of the concrete foundation strip located below ground level must be waterproofed.
— The second stage is vertical waterproofing.
This waterproofing of strip concrete foundations is as necessary as the primary one. The thing is that after removing the formwork, at least 20–30 cm of the concrete structure remains above the ground, on which the foundation base will subsequently rest. Physically, concrete can absorb up to 100 liters of moisture per cubic meter of its volume. It is this fact that is dangerous for the integrity of its design. When frozen, moisture destroys it, creating “shells” (voids) in which various moldy fungi actively begin to develop. To avoid this process, it is necessary to perform a number of actions aimed at reducing the hygroscopic properties of the concrete foundation.

Firstly, after removing the formwork, it is necessary to coat the walls with a special acrylic primer, which contains antiseptic components that prevent the development of mold. In addition, acrylic primers reliably cover the capillary structures of any porous materials with a thin film. The recommended number of primer coats is at least two. Each subsequent layer should be applied no earlier than the first one dries (after 2 - 3 hours).
Secondly, after the acrylic primer has completely dried on the sides of the foundation (the foundation walls acquire a whitish tint, indicating that the primer has dried), it is necessary to carry out the second stage of vertical waterproofing - coating the walls with special liquid waterproofing compounds. These include waterproofing, construction mastic, liquid glass, construction bitumen or other specialized products. Both the outer part of the foundation wall and the inner part are subject to treatment. It is best to apply these types of liquid waterproofing using brushes or rollers (except liquid glass). The number of application layers is at least two. At the same time, there is a little construction trick to cover the foundation walls 100% with vertical waterproofing - you apply the first layer in such a way that the solution is applied with vertical movements, and after it has completely set, the second layer is applied, and the movements with a brush or roller will be horizontal.

If you used concrete foundation blocks as the basis of the foundation, then for better waterproofing it is necessary to use not liquid waterproofing agents, but rolled or glued ones. The only problem with such coatings is the joining seams of the sheets, which can become a source of moisture penetration into the body of the foundation. Another disadvantage of applying such waterproofing is that a burner is used as a heating element, which melts the base of the rolled waterproofing to bond it to the wall surface, and this can be unsafe.
- the third stage is a hydraulic barrier between the foundation and the crown of the house made of timber.
If you use timber as a wall material, then you simply need to carry out another waterproofing procedure consisting of two stages.
First, you need to reliably waterproof the horizontal section of the foundation on which the log will subsequently rest. This can be done using the same method as for the vertical walls of your foundation. The most ideal option would be to apply liquid construction bitumen to the horizontal part of the foundation wall. To better adsorb it to the surface, the concrete must either be degreased using any special liquids (White spirit, acetone, etc.) or coated with an acrylic primer.
Secondly, after the tar has begun to cool, but has not yet completely set, we lay a sheet of roofing felt on top of it and press it tightly along the entire length of the foundation. This will create an excellent water barrier for laying the crown of a house made of timber.
These simple, but at the same time, mandatory procedures must be carried out to reliably waterproof the foundation for a house made of logs.

Log waterproofing is a waterproofing layer between the log house and the foundation, which will strengthen the structure and protect the device from the negative effects of the environment. This procedure prevents the appearance of mold and rot, flooding of basements, destruction of the foundation and distortion of the walls of the house.

Waterproofing prevents moisture from entering the basement and prevents the concrete from absorbing moisture. If this is allowed, mold and mildew will form on the walls of the structure, and the basement will regularly flood. As a result, this reduces the reliability of the device and reduces the thermal insulation qualities of the structure, leading to the formation of cracks in the foundation and the gradual destruction of the house.

Waterproofing materials

Among waterproofing materials, there are coating and pasting types. The first option includes bitumen mastic, which is characterized by availability and low price, reliability and durability. It forms an elastic, durable and moisture-resistant coating. Mastic effectively seals cracks and pores in concrete, reliably protects the frame and foundation of the house.

The pasting method involves the use of rolled materials, including roofing felt and glass insulation. This is a high-quality and reliable method that provides the best degree of protection for the foundation. Cost-effective and practical products guarantee a long service life.

How to install waterproofing

Waterproofing is done in two planes along the foundation and along the walls of the structure. The horizontal process is carried out using a plaster composition containing mastic. And between the soil and the base of the structure, experts recommend laying a polyethylene protective layer. Vertical treatment is carried out using plastering, impregnating or painting agents.

Vertical processing is done both before and after pouring concrete. Horizontal - only up to. Vertical waterproofing is easier and quicker to install, but it is less reliable. The use of this method alone does not provide complete protection of the foundation and structure. In addition, the protective layer must be renewed periodically. Therefore, experts recommend using both horizontal and vertical waterproofing.

Regardless of the type, it is important to carry out the work competently and reliably, then the house will last a long time. “MariSrub” craftsmen will select one suitable for the building, calculate and install the structure, and perform high-quality waterproofing.