How to form a tree hydrangea. Rules for pruning hydrangea. Winter and spring pruning of hydrangeas

Planting in open ground

At choosing a place There are a few things to consider for the plant. First of all, you should not place tree hydrangea next to woody plants, as she will feel a lack of moisture.

Tree hydrangea will feel most comfortable in partial shade. Being in too sunny place possible only with excess moisture. The best option- a shaded place into which the sun penetrates only in the morning and evening. Windows are best western or eastern sides.

Compliance temperature regime very important for healthy hydrangea growth. It is necessary not to allow hydrangea to be at very low or high temperatures, as this may lead to negative consequences. Optimal temperature in winter - 4-9°C, the rest of the time - not higher 20°C.

It is frost-resistant and can withstand temperatures as low as -15°C. If the upper part of the plant is damaged during frost, it will quickly recover when the weather warms up.

For the growth of hydrangea it is necessary correct soil. It should be:

• Acidified;
• Enriched with peat, humus or mineral fertilizers;
• Well compacted;
• Moisturized;
• Have good drainage.
• Ready-made soil can be purchased in specialized stores. Universal will do. It can be enriched with the necessary substances at home.

To acidify the soil, add crushed pine bark, sawdust or organic waste.

How to properly care?

Required for hydrangea abundant watering. It quickly evaporates moisture and, if there is a lack of it, begins to fade. The plant especially needs watering from spring to autumn. It is recommended to water the plant at this time. 1-2 times a week. Intensive watering of tree hydrangea in winter can cause rotting of the roots. For this procedure, a soft one is best suited. rainwater or settled tap water room temperature.

Fertilizer

Timely consumption nutrients– deposit good growth hydrangeas. The plant should be fertilized every two weeks mixtures mineral fertilizers, which can be purchased at a specialty store. Once a month feed with a solution of potassium permanganate, which strengthens the plant. These procedures must be performed before it blooms.

If violated acid-base balance soil, fertilizing will help restore it. For this plant once every two weeks should be watered with a solution of ferrous sulfate, which must be taken in a proportion of 2 g per liter of water. 2-3 sessions This procedure will help solve the problem.

Trimming

Due to the fast pace of hydrangea, it needs to be pruned. Every year. It is produced in spring and autumn.

Pruning young hydrangeas can be dangerous, since there is an increased movement of juices in them, and damage to the structure of the plant can lead to its death.

It is best to prune in the fall after reaching 3 years of age.

Trimming is carried out in 4 stages:

1. Inspect the bush for damage and broken branches. Removing defects.
2. Removing old shoots. This speeds up the metabolism in the plant. This stage Intended for plants over 5 years old.
3. Last year's shoots are shortened by 6-8 buds.
4. Destruction of small shoots that do not form inflorescences. They must be removed as they take away a lot of nutrients from it.

Preparing for winter

In winter, hydrangea is especially vulnerable, even despite its frost resistance. In order for the plant to survive the winter safely, you need to prepare it in advance. To do this you need:

1. Remove fallen leaves by hand;
2. Sprinkle the base of the bush with sawdust;
3. Place boards around the plant and secure the plant stems to them using ropes;
4. Cover with cellophane.

This way it will withstand even the coldest winter.

Flowering begins at 4 years of age. It differs in its duration. Usually lasts 4 months - from July to October.

The inflorescences are located at the ends of the stems and have a spherical shape. Typically, hydrangea flowers are white, blue or pink color, but there are other variations of paint. The color depends on the acidity of the soil. Grow in acidic soil blue flowers, and in alkaline - flowers painted in warm colors.

Good pruning helps speed up flowering and increase its intensity.

Reproduction

There are three ways in which tree hydrangea can be propagated:

• Cuttings;
• Dividing the bush;
• Layerings.

Cuttings

To successfully produce propagation by cuttings, they must be prepared in mid-summer. It is best to do this in the morning, when the plant is sufficiently saturated with moisture.

Non-lignified shoots with 2-3 internodes will serve as good cuttings. To avoid further evaporation of moisture, the leaves of the cuttings are cut in half. The cuttings should be placed to a depth of 2-3 centimeters in a container containing a substrate of peat and sand in a 2:1 ratio. A distance of ten centimeters should be maintained between cuttings, since hydrangea roots grow horizontally. Cuttings should root at a temperature of 19-20°C.

After a month, the cuttings can be transferred to the ground.

Propagation by cuttings in autumn comes with some difficulties. Problems may arise from the need to preserve young shoots in winter conditions. To do this, the substrate prepared for cuttings is enriched in advance with a solution against the formation of rot. This will help avoid some watering problems.

After the cuttings are planted, the container with them is wrapped in a plastic bag, forming a kind of greenhouse. It should be in a bright place and ventilated several times a week. As the shoots grow, you can increase the time they spend outdoors.

Reproduction by dividing the bush considered the easiest. To do this, you need to dig up the plant and cut it in half along with the shoots and root system. Plant the resulting bushes in a new location.

Division should be done before the plant begins to sap.

Reproduction by layering is not difficult even for a beginner. It is performed in the spring. For successful reproduction you need to follow the step-by-step instructions:

1. Prepare a groove about ten centimeters deep in the ground.
2. Take one of the shoots from the plant, bend it and place it in this groove.
3. Secure it and pour 1-2 cm of soil on top.
4. Bend the upper part of the shoot upward at an angle of 45°.
5. Water, weed and loosen regularly. During the season, add soil 3 more times.
6. Next spring, use pruning shears to separate big bush. Plant with a clod of earth in a new place.

Hydrangea obtained in this way begins to bloom at 4-5 years.

Diseases and pests

Diseases

Hydrangea is susceptible to many diseases. They can occur if the conditions for healthy plant growth have been disrupted.

1. Tracheomycosis wilt

This disease is caused by soil fungal pathogens. The first sign of plant damage is that the roots rot and turn brown. The flow of nutrients is reduced, and top shoots are starting to fade. IN in this case it is almost impossible to save a flower, so the best way out is to take preventive measures.

2. Gray rot

Fungal disease of the plant. It primarily affects young shoots with a light gray rash. As the disease develops, it completely affects the hydrangea. High humidity has a beneficial effect on the development of the disease. To cure this disease, you need to remove the infected parts of the plant, and then disinfect the container in which the hydrangea grows. For prevention, treat the plant with Fundazol.

3. Powdery mildew

Fungal disease. Pathogens often live directly in the soil. Plaque appears on the affected areas white. Later, the leaves begin to fade and the tops of the shoots dry out. If the plant is severely damaged, flowering does not occur. To cure a plant, you need to remove its infected parts, then maintain favorable temperature and light conditions, as well as properly fertilize it. In case of severe damage, Vitaros or Fundazol should be used.

Pest activity can greatly harm hydrangeas if the necessary measures are not taken in time.

A special type of pest– snails. Meet on garden plots And open area. They penetrate the soil and, with the onset of spring, eat the roots of the plant. Usually, clutches of eggs are left there. To prevent the appearance of snails, you need to periodically check the ground around the bushes for their presence and remove them. In cases where there are too many snails, you can use chemicals that are sold in specialized stores.

Hydrangeas have firmly established themselves in garden plots. These elegantly flowering bushes are unpretentious and do not require much time for care. However, in order for them to remain in beautiful shape and delight lush flowering, they need pruning. When the procedure is carried out correctly, the plant grows with numerous young branches, at the ends of which elegant, lush inflorescences form. In order not to harm the plant, you need to know exactly when and how to prune hydrangea correctly. The specifics of the procedure vary somewhat depending on the plant variety, and this must be taken into account.

To trim the bush, use a sharp pruner, which will be easy to cut and not break off the branches. This is very important for the plant to form correctly and actively grow.

Pruning goals

Pruning hydrangea has several purposes. Without it, the plant can naturally grow, but this leads to the crushing of inflorescences and a decrease in their number. Also, a well-formed bush looks more decorative, which adds beauty to the garden. Thanks to pruning, the following goals are achieved:

• beautiful bush shape with an abundance of green mass;
• plant rejuvenation;
• maintaining health;
• improvement of flowering.

The procedure annually gives impetus to the abundant growth of young shoots, which quickly produce flowers. Due to their shorter length, they create abundant green mass in the lower part of the plant, where old twigs can no longer produce such greenery.

General pruning rules

Hydrangea needs to be trimmed correctly, otherwise it can even be ruined. Available general recommendations, which apply to all varieties and species. Do not cut the plant in rainy or very dry weather, or in extreme heat. It is better to carry out pruning in the evening, then all the damaged areas will have time to heal by the morning and will not attract unnecessary insects and will not dry out if the sun is too hot.

When pruning thick shoots that begin to release juice abundantly, they are covered with garden varnish or paint so that the hydrangea does not weaken.

Typically, this phenomenon is observed when pruning a tree-like variety, if it is necessary to remove a large part of the crown.

The cut is made obliquely, with one squeeze of the pruning shears, without soaking the plant tissue. Sometimes in places where you can’t reach with garden shears, you can use sharp knife or a garden file (if the branch is thick). This should only be done as a last resort, since such plant injury takes longer to heal.

Features of pruning by variety

In gardens, paniculate, tree-like, ground cover and large-leaved hydrangeas are most often grown. Depending on the type of plant, the rules for cutting it also change. You need to know them, since mistakes will lead to the fact that the bush will not bloom magnificently and elegantly.

Large-leaved and ground cover

Pruning of large-leaved hydrangea is carried out mainly for sanitary purposes. During this process, dead shoots and already wilted inflorescences are cut off from the plant. You can also thin out the bush somewhat if it is too thick. It is impossible to rid the plant of last year’s shoots before winter, since it is on them that buds for inflorescences are laid in the fall. By cutting them, the owner will receive only a lush one in the spring, but not flowering bush.

In order not to spoil the hydrangea next year, it is necessary to cut off the faded inflorescences in the summer. This will allow the plant to have time to produce young shoots before the onset of the cold period, and, therefore, flowering caps will appear on them in the summer.

When a hydrangea is sheltering for the winter, weak shoots are cut out of the bush, this will make it easier for it to winter.

The plant must be rejuvenated once every 3 years, cutting the shoots by 30-40 centimeters. Only ¼ of all branches of the bush are affected by such a haircut.

Ground cover hydrangea also does not require serious pruning, despite the fact that it produces flowers on spring shoots. When to prune hydrangea - in spring or autumn - depends on weather conditions and gardener preferences. It is enough to prune the ground cover bush once a year, removing only excessively long shoots that disrupt its shape.

Paniculata hydrangea

According to the rules of pruning paniculata hydrangea is held in the fall. Skeletal shoots should not be touched. Only those branches that grow inside the bush are pruned, thickening it excessively. Dried panicles must also be removed. Young shoots are very fragile and easily break under snow mass. If it is clear that they will not become woody before winter, you need to remove them with pruning shears.

Before winter, the shoots that had inflorescences are cut off, leaving only 2-3 buds on them. This is necessary so that in the spring the hydrangea, when its leaves bloom, looks elegant. Buds are formed only on spring shoots.

Hydrangea paniculata, pruned for rejuvenating purposes, is processed in the fall. To do this, several skeletal branches are cut off, leaving only 2-3 growing outward.

Pruning hydrangea paniculata in the spring is carried out to restore a beautiful crown after winter. Branches that have dried out, unable to withstand frost, or have been broken are removed from it. You can also gradually create a standard during spring pruning, thanks to which the hydrangea will look like a lush flower cloud on a stalk.

Tree-like

Trimming tree hydrangea is required. This should be done in the fall. In winter, if all dry inflorescences remain on the branches, they will fill with snow, become unbearably heavy for the plant and break it. They need to be cut with a small stem. Very active cutting can harm the plant, especially if it is young and not yet ready for rejuvenation.

Serious pruning for the first time can only be carried out on plants aged 4 years or older.

Pruning hydrangeas in the fall may seem difficult for beginners due to the need to count the buds left on the shoots (there should be 3-4 of them), but soon it becomes automatic and no problems arise.

Anti-aging pruning of tree hydrangea is carried out no earlier than 7 years after planting the plant. If the root system is not very large, all shoots are cut off before winter, leaving only 10 cm of stumps above the ground. If the root is powerful, then only ¼ of the bush is cut off per year, and so the plant is gradually completely rejuvenated.

If you cut off the bush completely with an extensive root, it will not have enough strength to recover. This happens because the root system will need constant replenishment with substances that enter it from the above-ground part, and only young runs will not be able to provide them in the required amount.

Pruning hydrangeas in the spring may be necessary if, after a harsh winter, the bush has frozen and broken branches. They are cut with pruning shears when the most active spring sap flow has already passed, since otherwise the plant will weaken when touching living tissues.

Types of pruning

In order to more accurately navigate what type of pruning a plant needs at a particular moment, you need to accurately understand what type of pruning involves what.

1. Rejuvenating – cutting large quantities shoots to a greater length to obtain new ones from the root, which will be stronger and stronger due to their young age and the absence of defects in them caused by negative impacts environment. This type of pruning of hydrangeas is carried out in the fall.
2. Sanitary – removal of unsuitable shoots that spoil appearance plants and create unnecessary mass. Dry, broken and defective shoots are cut off.
3. Formative - the most complex and necessary to obtain a beautiful bush. It is carried out immediately after planting and then for several years.

All trimming is done with pruning shears. The use of ordinary scissors is unacceptable.

Shaping haircut

It is carried out without fail in the first 2 years from the moment the plant was planted, and then - at the request of the owner for another 2-3 years. Thanks to the procedure, it is possible to lay correct form bush and provide it with strong branches growing in a beautiful direction.

Trimming is carried out according to the following scheme:

• Before planting, the seedling is trimmed a little so that the root does not spend much effort on the above-ground part and is formed correctly. All broken and dried shoots are also cut off.
• After winter - in March or April, depending on the climate, sanitary pruning bush and also prune all shoots so that the root continues to fully develop.
• In the second year, from this moment the formation of a correct, beautiful crown begins. All shoots remaining from last year are pruned, leaving 3 buds on them, which are fully developed. Excess defective shoots are removed completely. Only healthy branches growing in the right direction should remain on the hydrangea. They are the basis of the bush and will create its shape. By forming the crown every spring for several years in a row, you can get a particularly beautiful plant.

At correct implementation By cutting haircuts, the gardener receives a bush characterized by lush flowering and neatness. A hydrangea that has not been shaped will begin to look disheveled, since some of its stems will have the wrong direction of growth, and its shape will also be far from ideal.

Care after pruning

Cut hydrangea requires subsequent proper care. It involves watering and fertilizing. Stimulation of the growth of young shoots by pruning occurs with increased consumption by the plant. minerals and organic matter, which is added to the soil. Bird droppings will provide organic matter, and ash will provide mineral components. You can also use special complex fertilizers. Watering is carried out once a week in wet weather, and daily in dry weather.

By regularly pruning his hydrangea correctly, the gardener receives abundant flowering and very large inflorescences annually. Without proper care, the flowers will become smaller, and the bush will not be able to please with its elegance and attractiveness. In addition, it will become untidy and fallen apart, which will give the garden a somewhat abandoned look.

More clear example Hydrangea trimmings can be viewed in next video:

Incomparable hydrangeas have always been popular among gardeners and summer residents because of their luxurious inflorescences of various colors, as well as their ability to create beautiful landscapes on the site. Some of them can curl like vines, others have the shape of a bush or tree, but all of them bloom luxuriously and are fragrant in summer period time. But it should be noted that achieving such beauty by summer takes a lot of effort, since the plant needs care and, of course, proper seasonal pruning.

The pruning procedure is a rather delicate matter; it requires compliance with certain important points. First of all, it is worth understanding when it is better to prune hydrangeas - in spring or autumn.

In most cases, manipulations with hydrangea can be fraught; they can lead to diseases and reduced frost resistance of the plant. Moreover, the cuts themselves may not be tightened in right moment, which will lead to freezing of the bush branches. Usually, already dried flowers are cut in the fall - this is quite safe, since it does not lead to the formation of wounds at the cut sites. In addition, in winter the inflorescences will begin to lower the hydrangea branches downwards, which can break or deform the branches and the entire shrub as a whole.

In the spring, pruning of hydrangeas is carried out in a short time, since it is carried out mainly until the moment when the juice flows through the bush. The main manipulations with hydrangea are carried out precisely in spring period time, although there are also disadvantages and advantages.

Advantages spring pruning of hydrangea:

1. Appearance. By pruning a bush in the spring, you will certainly improve its appearance and create a more correct, desired shape of the bush.
2. Abundant flowering. By cutting off dried branches, you stimulate the growth of new, young ones, which will produce more larger, brighter inflorescences.
3. Correct selection of branches to cut. In the spring, it is much easier to separate living branches from dying ones, which should be removed for full growth and health of the hydrangea. They are easy to identify by their color, as well as their slightly swollen buds.
4. No risk of freezing. By pruning hydrangea branches in the spring, you do not risk the cuts being damaged winter frosts, as it happens when autumn pruning. However, cuts must be treated with charcoal powder both in autumn and spring. This works as an antiseptic and stimulates the growth of new shoots.

Flaws hydrangea trimmings in spring:

1. Short time. In spring, as a rule, pruning is done during the dormant period, before the sap begins to flow in the plant, since if you are a little late in doing this, you risk seriously harming the shrub or completely depriving yourself of the opportunity to enjoy the beautiful flowering of the unique hydrangea.
2. Time to grow. Having cut off the necessary branches, you will not immediately get young inflorescences on the new shoots. You'll have to wait until the end of the season to see the fruits of your handiwork, although it could happen much sooner.
3. Growth phases. A little later than expected, pruned branches in the spring can radically shift all phases of the plant’s growth and, thus, the hydrangea will not be able to ripen or fully prepare for winter. This will make it vulnerable to frost, which can even lead to the death of the bush.

When to prune in spring: in what month, timing

Typically, the main types of hydrangea pruning are performed precisely in early spring when the earth is still covered thin layer snow, but it is important to take into account several points that will help you perform the procedure correctly, without harm to the plant.

Once the appropriate day and spring month have been chosen for pruning hydrangea, you must use the basic rules for high-quality flower-bearing pruning of the plant:

• adult bush or tree first thinned out;
• weak branches are removed palm's width from the ground;
• are circumcised extra shoots growing inside the bush that give an unwanted shadow;
• produced removing frozen branches up to the beginning of healthy wood;
• garter after fixing the trimmed plant on a suitable support in the form of an iron or wooden pole.

Important! Before you cut anything, you first need to know the name and type of hydrangea that lives in your garden, as this information will help in proper care, will save you from unnecessary problems and disappointments.

Hydrangeas are divided into two main groups:

1. Hydrangeas blooming on last year's shoots (large-leaved, oak-leaved, liana-shaped, serrated).
2. Hydrangeas blooming on the shoots of the current year (paniculate, tree-like).

Note! Plants of the first group are pruned quite modestly, removing only old dried inflorescences, as well as weak shoots that did not survive the winter well. Standard rules do not apply to them, since they deprive the plant of the opportunity to bloom.

Step-by-step instructions, diagrams and features of pruning hydrangea varieties in spring: types of spring pruning

Having found out that each individual type of hydrangea has its own characteristics and tolerates certain types of pruning differently, it is necessary to understand in more detail about each of them.

Tree variety

Tree hydrangea is pruned in spring and autumn according to the following schemes, using certain types of pruning.

1. Removing spherical inflorescences.
2. Sanitary pruning - removing broken, dead ends of branches.
3. Rejuvenating - complete removal old branches.
4. Thinning - cutting off zero shoots that are incapable of flowering, which only take away the strength of the flowering bush.
5. Pruning for flowering - shortening last year's shoots to the length of about four pairs of strong buds.

Video: spring pruning hydrangea tree

By the way! A similar scheme and types of spring pruning are also applied to varieties such as ashy, motley hydrangea.

Paniculate variety

Paniculata hydrangea is pruned in spring and autumn according to the following schemes, using certain types of pruning:

1. removal of cone-shaped inflorescences;
2. sanitary pruning - cutting only dried branches, because this type resistant to cold, shoots do not freeze;
3. rejuvenating procedure - involves cutting branches with fading growth, as it resembles a tree, has a skeletal trunk and branches;
4. shortening shoots for the growth of large young inflorescences;
5. thinning pruning - removal of excess shoots in order to avoid thickening and shading of the tree.

Video: spring pruning of paniculata hydrangea

Note! Of the three or four new shoots growing from one bud, you should cut off at least one, and choose the one that grows inside the bush.

Large-leaved variety

Large-leaved hydrangea is pruned in spring and autumn according to the following schemes and using certain types of pruning:

1. preservation of new shoots that did not flower;
2. removal of only two-year-old faded branches;
3. Moreover, pruning of large shoots (2) is carried out right up to the outgoing new branch (1);
4. sanitary pruning - cutting off dead, frozen, damaged branches;
5. anti-aging pruning – cutting off perennial branches;
6. thinning pruning - cutting off small, weak shoots.

Video: spring pruning of large-leaved hydrangea

Worth knowing! Hydrangeas are pruned for flowering in the spring only if this was not done in the fall.

Care after spring pruning

Having successfully completed the stage of spring pruning of your shrub or tree, the next procedure should be competent, consistent care for your hydrangea.

First of all, you need to organize timely feeding the plant which will stimulate fast growth strong beginners, but long, thin growth unsuitable for flowering can be avoided. The best helpers will become mineral fertilizers.

Mulch the soil any suitable material (manure, compost, etc.) - second important stage care This will help strengthen metabolic processes in the roots, create additional protection from pests and weed growth. The layer of such shelter should be at least 5-6 cm in height.

Abundant, regular watering– the key to a luxurious crown and lush, unique flowering of hydrangea. As new growth occurs, young branches should be tied up, as they do not always support new large flowers and can break under their weight.

Popular mistakes when carrying out the pruning procedure

In order to avoid mistakes and not destroy the plant, you should pay attention to the most common mistakes, which amateurs often tend to do while carrying out this type of work.

Popular mistakes when pruning hydrangeas in spring are:

• Wrong time the cutting process itself almost always leads to a slowdown in the growth of hydrangea, as well as its meager and unremarkable flowering.
• Failure to comply with the rules, sequence, procedure entails the formation of unsuccessful forms of shrubs, its total overgrowth or death.
• Ignoring recommendations for each individual variety hydrangea can ruin the plant even before the start of its expected full life and development.
• Incompetence regarding name and type acquired seedling also leads to serious mistakes V further care and sample development.
• Lack of any care at all behind a plant is simply unacceptable if we're talking about about the vulnerable beauty hydrangea.

In conclusion, I would like to say that by growing a unique hydrangea on your plot or garden, you will receive maximum emotions and impressions from its beauty, which will not allow you to be lazy and ignore its presence. Your hands will reach out to do something special and necessary for it, and seasonal spring pruning of hydrangea will become a completely familiar, favorite thing for you.

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Hydrangeas are a real decoration of the garden, but not all gardeners decide to acquire this plant. Like, it’s too troublesome. In fact, the need for agricultural practices will be determined by the variety and climatic conditions. Most worries are associated with preparing hydrangeas for the winter.

There are three main groups of hydrangeas:

-hydrangea . Recognized by its flat large inflorescences, which initially have a greenish tint, then white, smoothly flowing into pinkish. Caring for this hydrangea consists mainly of pruning for the winter - buds are laid on the shoots of the current year. Covering is only necessary in case of very cold winters or young shoots;

- hydrangea paniculata . The bush resembles a tree hydrangea, but is more powerful, and the inflorescences are cone-shaped. It is distinguished by its extreme frost resistance, so paniculate hydrangea for the winter can also be simply trimmed without covering (the buds are on the shoots of the current year).

- large-leaved hydrangea (colored, macrophylla) . This is where you have to suffer! This hydrangea develops buds on last year's shoots, which means they must be preserved in winter. And large-leaved hydrangea is very thermophilic. But there is no need to prune hydrangeas for the winter - just remove faded inflorescences.

And only when you have figured out which one you are the owner of, you can begin to prepare the hydrangea for winter.

Preparing hydrangea for winter

In order for hydrangeas to overwinter well, it is not enough to care for them only in the fall. So, you need to know what this plant loves, frequent watering and fertilizers. From the second half of summer, give up nitrogen and focus on phosphorus-potassium - this way you will prepare the hydrangea for winter.

Also for preparation hydrangeas for winter Watering should be stopped from the beginning of autumn, and leaves should be removed from the lower part of the shoots. Thus, the plants will become woody. We do not remove the leaves from the top only, as they protect the buds from freezing.

It's okay if in the spring you find slightly frozen shoots. Simply cut the “frostbitten” tissue back to live tissue. The most valuable hydrangea buds are located in the lower and central parts of the bush, and pruning the “extra” always means rejuvenation of the bush, which will have a positive effect on flowering.

Pruning hydrangea

As we have already said, large-leaved hydrangea is not pruned, since its buds are laid in the summer for the next year. This one hydrangeas in autumn only the faded inflorescences are removed.

And what about paniculata and tree hydrangeas - let's talk. There is no particular difference - prune hydrangea in autumn or in the spring. Some gardeners say that pruning last year's shoots in the spring will protect the buds from freezing. But still, most people prefer pruning hydrangeas for the winter: in the fall there is incomparably more time, and the branches will not break off under the weight of snow, and the tree hydrangea is not afraid of light frosts.

So, on each shoot we leave 2-3 buds, and mercilessly cut out the rest. As a rule, woody areas of shoots are left, and “living” shoots of hydrangeas are cut off; they still will not overwinter. Together with pruning hydrangeas we clean the bush: we remove weak shoots, with poor flowering and no flowering at all, very thickening, etc.

Sheltering hydrangeas for the winter

Tree and paniculate hydrangeas

Classic varieties of these hydrangeas do not need shelter for the winter. To be on the safe side, you should just hill up the bush thoroughly. hydrangeas in autumn. But if we are talking about young, one-year-old seedlings hydrangeas - cover them for the winter definitely necessary. But we'll talk about this a little lower.

Large leaf hydrangea

Unfortunately, without sheltering large-leaved hydrangea for the winter You will not receive flowers. And you need to cover it very warmly - much warmer than the same ones. There are several most popular options insulating hydrangeas for the winter:

1) Take wooden boards about half a meter long and use them to lay the ground around the hydrangea bush. We carefully bend the shoots (they do not break, they are quite flexible) into free form- fan, sun, radius. If desired, you can fix the branches - for example, in the cracks between the boards. Next, we place the same boards on top - we don’t press them down, we just lay them down. The next layer of our “sandwich” will be agrofibre - several layers. The structure is covered from above with another layer of insulating material - dry leaves, branches, spruce branches. How colder winter– the more layers of protection for hydrangeas need to be provided before winter.

Alternating layers is not important. For covering hydrangeas for the winter you can take sawdust, and bags of leaves, and any nonwovens. Don’t be afraid that the plant will smother or suffocate - this is not about large-leaved hydrangea. In extreme cases, in the spring there is a possibility of finding mold on the shoots - no big deal. Simply wipe away the mold with a damp cloth.

2) Another popular method covering hydrangeas for the winter– air-dry. To do this, a hydrangea bush is tied for insulation, wrapped with lutrasil or spandbond, and a mesh frame is placed around it. The height of the frame should be at least 10 cm greater than the plant itself. Ready frame filled with dry leaves. The structure is covered with roofing felt, film or other waterproof material.

Using the same principle, you should cover one-year-old tree-like or paniculate hydrangeas, having previously cut them by about 8-10 cm.

If it happens that your colored hydrangea freezes, it will not die: after trimming the frostbitten tissues, the plant will begin to grow and increase lush crown. Yes, but it won’t bloom. Therefore, for such hydrangeas shelter for the winter– not an excess, but a necessary measure.

Sheltering hydrangeas for the winter dismantled in the spring - gradually, with the arrival of warmth.

Caring for hydrangeas in winter- is an individual matter and largely depends on the plant variety, climate and the nature of winter. But what to exercise preparing hydrangea for winter necessary in any case - there is no doubt. Approach this matter wisely - and your hydrangeas will bloom to their fullest!

If you are interested in more detailed information about hydrangeas - you can read the articles posted on our website.

And now we bring to your attention a video on how to prune hydrangeas for the winter. Enjoy watching!

Tatyana Kuzmenko, member of the editorial board, correspondent of the online publication "AtmAgro. Agro-industrial Bulletin"

The type of hydrangea determines the method and time of its pruning, selected so as not to cut off the flower buds. All types of hydrangeas can be divided into two groups. The first group includes those that bloom on last year's shoots.

They don’t really need formative pruning; cosmetic and sanitary intervention is quite enough.

This group includes hydrangea large-leaved, serrated, Sargent, oak-leaved and petiolate. However, be careful: in some varieties of each species, flowers are laid differently from the rest of its representatives.

Pruning paniculate and tree hydrangeas

A group of hydrangeas that bloom on new growth form buds that grow and bloom in the same year, usually blooming later than other hydrangeas - from midsummer until the first frost. They do not suffer too much if pruning is not done at a certain time; they just don't do it late spring, early summer and when the buds are still open. This group includes paniculate and tree hydrangeas.

Hydrangea paniculata is the most popular in garden culture. Last year's shoots annually form new flowering branches, which are not always strong, so everything unnecessary is cut out from an adult plant. To form a bush, paniculata hydrangea is allowed to grow using zero shoots. Weak branches coming out of the ground are cut out, leaving stronger ones for flowering.

Our advice

General sanitary pruning is carried out in early spring, before bud break. If you prune later, the plant may get sick and may not even bloom this year. Weak and interfering shoots are removed at the root. Rejuvenation pruning is carried out by cutting branches onto perennial wood or “to the stump”.

Timing for pruning

Pruning of hydrangea paniculata shoots is done at the end of winter, before the emergence of buds, in early spring - in March, before the leaves bloom (main pruning), or late autumn, at a temperature not higher than +5…+ 10 C.

In autumn, faded inflorescences are cut off to reduce branch breaking. Sometimes part of the main pruning is postponed to autumn: if you need specimens on stronger shoots, but with smaller flowers.

A frost-resistant plant in a protected place (veranda) is pruned in late autumn: this is safe and ensures luxurious flowering next year.

On a note

Pruning paniculate hydrangea largely depends on the shape that needs to be given to the plant: bush, bush with a raised crown, standard with an erect or drooping crown.

Winter and spring pruning of hydrangeas

Since shrubs form inflorescences on new shoots, they are pruned in late winter ( best time for pruning), before growth begins, shortening the shoots by 1/3. Winter pruning promotes the formation of larger flowers.

In early spring, the shrub is given sanitary, rejuvenating, thinning and shaping pruning. In the new season, long shoots will appear from the remaining buds, the ends of which are decorated with inflorescences.

Autumn procedures

In cold climates, gardeners are afraid to radically prune hydrangeas for the winter: wounds remain on the branches and shoots that do not have time to heal before the onset of cold weather, which makes the plant vulnerable to frost.

If you prune completely and leave the plant in this form for the winter, moisture and infections that get into the wounds will lead to cell death. In the fall, it is safe to prune dried inflorescences on adult plants - this is also true if the plant is covered for the winter.

During heavy snowfalls, numerous inflorescences are dangerous for the bush: under the weight of the snow, the wood becomes deformed, breaks off, or the shoots bend to the ground; in the spring they will have to be tied up so that they get used to growing vertically again.

Hydrangea pruning diagram

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