How pechurki are made in a Russian stove. In the best traditions! How to build a Russian stove with your own hands? Scheme of a Russian mini-oven

If you are building a house and want to give it the charm of a Russian hut, a stove with a stove bench is the best solution.

Structurally, the furnace consists of firebox, niches for storing dishes ( cold stove), and an adjacent stand for hot pots and pans ( pole), niches for storing firewood ( guardianship), a kind of oven for cooking and baking bread ( crucible), chimney, beds (beds). The lower part of the crucible is called under, it is built at an angle to make it more convenient to place heavy dishes with dishes inside. Located above the pole over-pipe And chimney, which is always equipped with a valve - view.

In modern, modified designs of Russian stoves, such shortcomings as: uneven heating have been eliminated; high fuel consumption; duration of heating of the furnace.

For furnaces, the foundation is made in the form of a slab, which is separated from the foundation of the building. Before deciding on the depth of the pit, draw drawings of the furnace with dimensions, determine its location in the house, evaluate the type of soil and its level of freezing, as well as the height groundwater. For example, in the Moscow region the level of soil freezing is about one and a half meters. Therefore, it is recommended to make three rows of FBS (with a block height of 60 cm).

A foundation made of rubble and rebar is cheap and reliable, but it must be allowed to dry for two to three weeks. Another variant - FBS foundation (foundation block wall). It is convenient, durable, but somewhat more expensive than a rubble concrete foundation.

Important! Waterproofing is laid in two layers. The first is located directly in the trench, the second is slightly below floor level.

Preparing mortar for laying a furnace

Choosing clay

- for red brick we take clay and sifted sand in a ratio of one to two;
- if you plan to use refractory bricks, the clay must accordingly be refractory;
- for fireclay, mix fireclay powder (3-4 parts) and fireclay based on bentonite or kaolin (1 part);

— when constructing pipes, bricks are laid on a mixture of cement and sand.

Soak the clay in a barrel or iron tub for two days. The volume of water is based on a ratio of 1 part water to 4 parts clay. Then add sand to the mixture. It is very convenient to mix the composition with your feet. rubber boots. The solution must be homogeneous, without large inclusions or lumps.

Do-it-yourself Russian stove “Teplushka”

The model of this stove is based on the classic Russian one, but has its own additions. The Teplushka was developed by Joseph Podgorodnikov, an engineer. This design can heat up to 35 square meters premises.

Differences from legacy models:

• — complete heating of the entire masonry, including the space under the firebox;
• — for cooking there is no need to heat the stove completely; you can use the stove (after closing the furnace with a damper), which allows you to save fuel;
• — the design includes a water heating tank.

Important! When laying, it is necessary to remove all excess mortar with a trowel. Under no circumstances should clay mortar be applied to the inner surface of the masonry; this will impair thermal conductivity and lead to increased soot deposition on the walls.

Ordinal masonry scheme

Water heating box made from steel sheets. We make markings. Using a grinder, we cut out the walls and bottom of the box from steel. Then you need to cut a hole closer to the base of the box and weld a water tap there, through which it will be convenient to pour water from the tank. We fasten them by welding. We clean the seams. The tank must be closed with a lid of a suitable size; we make it in the same way, cutting out the roof of the tank and a rectangle from steel, which will serve as a lid, and welding handles from fittings to it.

1-2. We build the initial rows continuous. The first row can either be laid out entirely of bricks, or a frame can be built, which will account for the bulk of the stove, and the internal space of the frame can be filled with bricks in the form of halves and quarters of bricks. The second row consists of two walls: one is laid out one brick thick (a), the other is twice as thick (b, c). Over the areas laid out in two bricks, the following will be built: a stove, a compartment for storing utensils, an over-pipe (Figure b), as well as a heating shield (Figure c), between these elements we will place a crucible - a niche for cooking and a stove bench (roof).

4. We continue to build walls. We close the cleaning hole with half a brick.

5. Bricks cut with a grinder at an angle (a) will come in handy here. These bricks will serve as support for the vault, which we will build next. After this row is lined up, we take sheets of plywood and cut out several semicircular templates from them. We fasten them together with slats and screws, we get a semicircular shape for masonry (2), which will support each brick during the construction process.

1-beveled wedge-shaped bricks; 2-plywood formwork; 3-boards; 4 – masonry of the arch.

6. Lay it down metal box for water (a). We begin to lay out the roof of the oven.

7. We make an overlap over the horizontal heating channel of the shield.

8. Install the grate (a) on the beveled bricks. We make the angle of inclination of the bricks in such a way that the coals roll freely down onto the platform (b). We gradually fill the vault (arch) with sand.

9. We install the firebox door, clamping the fastener into the brickwork and additionally strengthening it with wire. Add a layer of sand to the arch.

10. In this row we leave a hole (a), through which we will clean the shield channel (b), located horizontally. We cut the bricks at an angle of 45 degrees and cover the water heating tank with them, leaving access to the lid and tap.

11. We continue construction based on the drawings. We pour and compact a layer of sand between the walls of the oven. At the same time, we achieve a slope towards the mouth.

12. On sand compacted with a bevel, we begin laying the hearth (a). After the row is laid out, we cut out recesses above the firebox and install a plate there cast iron stove(b). There should be a small gap between the edges of the slab and the bricks. Pour sand into the gaps.

We cover the brickwork in front of the stove with a metal corner, protecting the bricks from crumbling in case of accidental impacts.

13. Cut from steel sheet strip. Bend the edges to one side. We bend the strip itself into a radius. It will serve as a form for the mouth of the furnace and at the same time protect it. We block the horizontal channel of the shield, leaving space between the bricks (five windows - a, b, c, d, e). From these windows we will build the heating shield channels straight up.

17-18. We begin to lay out the arch(s) above the metal strip. To do this, each brick is cut to the required angle. We mark from the center. The bevel angle is determined by a thread stretched from the center of the arc to the top of each brick. When the arch is ready, we lower the formwork, cut from plywood in the form of semicircles, fastened together, into the crucible wooden blocks. After this, we begin to lay out the vault from solid bricks. We insert small fragments of bricks into the gaps between the bricks, directly into the mortar. This will give strength to the arch (b). Next, in the eighteenth row we overlap the pole.

Despite total electrification and gasification, Russian stoves can still be found in private homes, not only in villages, but also in cities. The range of its application is quite wide. The Russian stove not only directly heats the room. You can also cook food on it, dry things, and just lie there cold winter evenings. Thanks to this, the Russian stove continues to remain so popular to this day. It is quite possible to build it with your own hands, but this requires, of course, a certain amount of knowledge. If you are not confident in your own abilities, it would be better to turn to professional craftsmen.

What is good about the Russian stove?

Let's note one point. In fact, Russian stoves can be different. In particular, they are distinguished, for example, by size, into:

• small;
• average;
• big.

Let us warn you right away - the process of building it is quite complicated.

Before starting such work, you first need to study the features of such a structure and understand its features. Generally speaking, the following departments should be present in a Russian oven:

• cold stove;
• oven;
• pole;
• cooking chamber (furnace)
• overpipe;
• bed;
• view.

Let's look at it a little more closely. The cold stove is designed for storing dishes. In principle, you can do without it - the solution is in this case is accepted individually, taking into account other features of your project. Another department that not all Russian stoves have is the oven. Its main purpose is to dry firewood. Accordingly, baking is often abandoned due to its uselessness.

The pole is a niche located in front of the crucible. As a rule, a stove for cooking is installed here. In addition, the hearth also serves to maintain the desired temperature of already cooked dishes. This use is possible if the stove is located somewhere else.

The bottom of the crucible is called the under. Install it with a slight slope towards the entrance to the cooking chamber. This advice has very useful practical significance. The inclined bottom makes it easy to move the dishes. Another important point is that the bottom surface will need to be thoroughly sanded.

The crucible is one of the main parts of the Russian stove. Firewood is placed here and dishes are placed. It should be noted that the roof of the furnace should have a slight slope towards the exit. This is necessary in order to hot air accumulated under the ceiling, warming up the walls of the stove and the bed. The latter, by the way, is located above the crucible, behind the chimney. And finally, a view is a window with a door that serves to block the chimney. In addition, through the view it is possible to get to the damper responsible for regulating traction.

The above scheme is, one might say, classic. Modern Russian stoves are complemented by such elements as the above-mentioned cooking plate, as well as a tank designed for heating water. In order to required temperature achieved faster, using heating of the sub-flush section. This, by the way, allows you to reduce the time required to speed up the process of heating the room.

The design of the Russian stove provides for the presence of several departments. Accordingly, in summer period, when there is no need to heat the room, it is used only for cooking. That is, only the hob is used. IN winter period As a rule, all departments are already warmed up.

How to make a Russian stove yourself

Preparatory work begins with choosing a location. This is one of the most important points, and there are many factors to consider, such as the material from which the walls of the house are made. In this case we're talking about, first of all, about safety. For example, if the walls are wooden, then there should be a distance of at least 20 centimeters between them and the stove. It is also recommended to take additional fire precautions. The most popular option is to protect the wooden walls of the house with asbestos boards.

In order to build a Russian stove with your own hands, you will need tools. In particular, you will need:

• trowel or trowel;
• building level;
• hammer-pick;
• plumb line;
• rule;
• measuring strip - it is used to measure the width of the seams;
• order - this device allows you to maintain the verticality of the masonry.

In addition, you will need the following materials:

• clay and sand for preparing the mixture;
• fireproof and fireclay material;
• grate;
• wire (soft);
• doors;
• asbestos cord.

When building large furnaces, you cannot do without a foundation. This point is best taken into account when building a house. The best option here would be a monolithic reinforced concrete structure. Another important point. The foundation of the stove is an independent structure and is in no way connected with the support of the house itself. At this stage, everything must be done thoroughly. During the construction process, be sure to check the horizontalness of the foundation, because the reliability of the entire structure depends on this.

Once everything is ready, you can begin building the furnace itself. In order to do everything correctly, it is best to use a pre-drawn drawing. The most important point in building a stove is the correct order. To ensure the safety of the structure, the masonry must be completely sealed. Accordingly, bricks with cracks are immediately rejected.

As a rule, the thickness of the seams between the rows is from 5 to 8 millimeters. Some people recommend using clay to improve sealing. However, in fact, by coating the inside of the stove walls with this material, you will only reduce thermal conductivity. In addition, clay promotes soot deposition.

It is recommended to soak ceramic bricks before laying. Thanks to this simple procedure, this material will then not absorb water from the solution. Thanks to soaking, they will dry out at the same time, and as a result, the tightness of the walls will be at a fairly high level. Now there is one more point that has important. The internal walls are laid out only in half brick. This is quite enough. The thing is that walls laid out in one brick will be thicker. Accordingly, the time required to warm them up will increase, and fuel consumption will become much greater.

Now let's look at such an important point as the order mentioned above. During the construction process, a certain scheme should be followed. In this case, all rows must be laid dry. Before you start laying, you need to outline the location of the walls - this is done with chalk, a corner and a ruler. Next, the bricks of the outer wall are laid. The work should begin with this. After this, the inner surface is filled.

It’s easy to guess that the strength of the entire structure depends on how the first row of bricks is laid. Therefore, during the work process, pay special attention to this moment. The 2nd row is the beginning of laying the stove wall. Internal channels are also designed here for cleaning it.

When constructing the 3rd row, doors are installed for the cleaning and blowing chambers. They are secured with steel wire, the ends of which are then hidden in the seams between the bricks. 4th row - at this stage, the entrances to the internal channels are blocked with masonry. Here you should also be extremely careful and follow the drawing exactly.

When laying the 5th row, install a grate for a large firebox. The inside of the firebox is lined with fireclay bricks cut in half (according to thickness). In addition, a small firebox door is also installed. 6th row - at this stage a tank is installed for heating water. We also continue laying the firebox - refractory bricks are best suited for this.

Since ancient times, Russia has been famous for its craftsmen who achieved excellence in many areas. Furnace business was no exception. Based on historical documents, we can conclude that for many centuries Russia firmly retained its leadership in the furnace business. A chimney-type stove, that is, with a missing chimney, for a long time served as an ideal example of a Russian stove. In 1718, however, Peter I issued a decree according to which the use of chicken stoves was strictly prohibited. It was this decree that prompted many domestic stove makers and architects to create a completely new design.

To successfully lay a traditional Russian stove, you should learn some of the subtleties of its functioning and design. Depending on the region, the stove could have a unique shape. Sometimes one could see extremely interesting specimens. On average, the dimensions of a Russian stove looked like this:

• 2 arshins wide;
• 3 arshins in length;
• 2.5 arshins in height (an arshin is about 71 centimeters).

A stove with such dimensions could easily heat a room whose area was about 3 dozen square meters. In most cases, the stove was located in a corner, not far from the front door. Before laying, the master always made a solid foundation using broken bricks or stones. Any stove had a special structural element - a stove, where the necessary tools were stored. To conserve heat, special material was placed between the arches and the wall of the stove.

During the construction process, the master used bricks, as well as special mortar. Classic technology involves the use of red clay bricks, which are characterized by maximum strength.

Construction Features

To make a classic Russian stove, you will have to take 1,650 bricks, a valve (the hole dimensions should be 26 by 24 centimeters), a view with a half-door, as well as enough clay and sand for 80 buckets of mortar.

According to the classical scheme, the roof of the furnace is necessarily located at a certain slope towards the mouth. We must not forget about the small protrusion-threshold, the main task of which is that it prevents sparks flying from the furnace from getting inside the pipe. In addition, it is the threshold that collects all the soot that comes out of the stove.

Directly during the construction process, the main assistants should be orders, that is, cuts running in a horizontal plane. Thanks to these cuts, you can get an absolute idea of ​​how to approach laying out a new row, when there is a need to use whole or broken bricks, where additional wood fixtures and metal appliances should be placed.

Orders and their scheme

The first row is laid out directly on the foundation, which is based on cement mortar and brick. Before laying the first row, you should lay down roofing material or roofing felt, which will serve as protection against moisture. Ideally, the construction of the first row should be made of superheated bricks, which are more resistant to water.

In order to achieve perfect dressing of seams in the next row, three ¾ bricks should be laid at the corners of the starting row. One of the 3/4 bricks, as well as the brick adjacent to it, should be beveled for the tightest possible fit.

The second row is the first row in the process of laying out the walls of the pit. To ensure that the seams do not match, 4 ¾ bricks are used on the front wall of the opening (in the 3rd row).

For the fourth row, exclusively solid brick is used. The pair of bricks that mark the entrance to the oven need to have their corners beveled so that they can be used as supports for the arch.

Wood formwork should be placed in the opening of the underfloor area. After work on the arch is completed, you can work on the fifth row. To avoid matching seams of adjacent rows, 3 ¾ bricks must be laid at the corners. The nuance of this row lies in the fact that 2 dozen bricks of the side walls need to be chipped at a certain angle so that they become supports for the vaults of the oven.

The sixth row assumes that the side walls of the oven are one brick thick, and the front and rear walls are 2 bricks thick. In the space between the internal walls there is a formwork with a semicircular upper part, which is in accordance with the configuration of the arch of the oven. The configuration of the formwork is immediately determined taking into account the ability to easily disassemble the structure and pull it out through the opening, allowing access to the oven.

Once the formwork is in place, you can work on the vault. Ideally, when laying a vault, wedge-shaped bricks should be used, which contribute not only to the ideal surface of the structure, but also to its maximum strength. You can make such a brick yourself if you carefully process the edges. If it is not possible to make such a brick, then it is quite possible to use an ordinary one.

In such a situation, it is necessary to ensure that the lower ribs of the bricks are in close contact, and the gaps between the upper ones are equal to each other and filled with cement. You can increase the strength of the arch if you place it in the gaps broken brick, exactly matching them in size.

After the arch of the oven, you can work on rows 7 and 8. Laying 7 resembles the first row, while 8 can be made entirely from solid brick. In the 8th row, you must remember to lay out a platform for the cold stove. Row 9 is the first row connected to the walls of the stove. There must be dry sand between the walls, and the 11th row must 100 percent cover not only the stove, but also the backfill.

In the 13th row, the laying of the walls of the crucible and the hearth begins. Between these two elements there should be a metal strip, which in its configuration exactly matches the mouth of the stove. It is necessary to provide holes in the strip in advance through which steel wire is threaded, which is subsequently fixed in the masonry.

Subsequent rows, up to 17, are necessary to build up the walls of the two structures described below. In the 17th row, 8 bricks should be placed in the walls of the crucible, which were previously hewn and chipped. It is on these bricks that the roof of the crucible will rest. In fact, the laying of the crucible itself is completely identical to the process of laying the opechka vault.

When the work on the arch is completed, you can work on row 18. A pair of heels should be fixed on the sides of the pole window, which will become supports for Not large sizes arches. When laying subsequent rows, you should remember that the space between the arch and the walls of the furnace must be filled with perfectly dry sand mixed with broken bricks, crushed stone and glass.

The 21st row should completely cover the filling and the furnace. Row 22 makes this “lid” even stronger. The 23rd row involves strengthening the shield walls, as well as the over-pipe, in which the choke intended for the samovar is fixed. When laying the next rows, the over-pipe is blocked, but a couple of holes remain. The first is necessary for a samovar chimney, the second - for a view. When laying the next couple of rows, a half-door is fixed in the opening of the view.

In the 31st row, next to one of the walls, it is necessary to place an additional row of three bricks so that the resulting gutter will facilitate the release of smoke into the chimney. The overpipe in the next row can be completely blocked. Only on the right side in the over-pipe you need to provide a hole closed with a valve. After the 33rd row, only the chimney is built up.

Right at the ceiling, you need to do cutting, which involves laying bricks. Using cutting wood ceiling structures are removed from the pipe. In addition, cutting is an important decorative element. Cutting, however, also has a practical function, increasing heat transfer.

To complete the construction of any brick stove, it is recommended to carefully study the instructions and thoroughly understand the diagrams, or even better, to undergo an internship with an experienced stove maker.

A do-it-yourself Russian stove can be under the guidance of a qualified craftsman who will not allow you to make mistakes when laying and reading the order. You need to know that even the only one an incorrectly placed brick can ruin all the work done. There are known cases when, due to such an oversight, it was necessary to redo the masonry, since either a very strong unnecessary draft was created, leading to excessive consumption of firewood, or it was completely absent.

If, despite all the difficulties and warnings, after all decided to try on the role of a stove maker without making “fatal” mistakes, it is necessary to strictly follow the work rules and take the most serious approach to the choice of quality material.

To avoid claims from the fire inspectorate, you need to know that all permanently installed heating devices must fully comply with the established parameters (SNiP 41-01-2003).

Basic structure of a Russian stove

The Russian stove may have different models, but it is always a heating and cooking unit, and plus it must have an oven and at least a small bed.

For that, to To start working on the construction of such a structure, you must become familiar with the structure of the furnace in order to know the name of each of its sections.

The basic diagram of a traditional Russian stove assumes the presence of the following departments:

1 – The oven is set up for drying firewood in reserve. This section is not available in all oven models, as it is not functional enough.

2 – A cold stove is also not always suitable, but it is typical for a Russian stove. This section is used to store dishes.

3 – The pole is a niche in front of the crucible. This is where the hob is often installed if the oven has a slightly different structure. If there is no stove, food cooked in the crucible is left in the hearth so that it remains hot longer.

4 – Under — This is the bottom of the crucible or cooking chamber. This oven element is arranged with a slight slope towards the entrance to the chamber to facilitate the movement of dishes installed in it. In addition, it is recommended to sand the surface of this element well.

5 – A cooking chamber or crucible; in traditional ovens, firewood is placed in it and heat-resistant dishes are placed in which food is cooked. The vault of the chamber, like the one underneath, is made with a slight slope towards the entrance. This configuration contributes to the accumulation of hot air under the ceiling, and it warms up the couch well and side walls ovens.

6 – The overflow is a niche over the pole, over her the chimney begins.

7 – The choke or samovar was built earlier and was intended for the pipe from the samovar, which was installed in this hole. The samovar goes into the chimney. Today, this section in the furnace is most often not installed, since there is no need for it.

8 – Thermal channel above the pole.

9 – A view is a window with a door that completely blocks the chimney. Through this hole one gets to the damper, which regulates the draft by moving horizontally. The damper is a metal plate with well-finished edges. Today, this element is often replaced with a special valve.

10 – Location flaps.

11 – The bench is located above the furnace, behind the chimney. During combustion, this section of the stove always warms up well. Previously, the bed was used in winter time, like a bed, so it was made quite large, so that there was enough space for several people.

In the modernized version of the Russian stove, the order of which will be presented below, some elements of the traditional structure are replaced. At the same time, new model has become more functional, as it now has a hob and a water heating tank.

The modern version also differs from the traditional one in that it provides heating of the furnace section - thanks to this, the stove reaches the desired temperature much faster, and from it it flows into the premises. large quantity heat.

The presence of different sections in the design allows only the hob to be heated for cooking in the summer, without heating everything the entire structure, which helps maintain the desired microclimate in the house and save fuel. In winter, when all channels are heated, the stove becomes multifunctional - it can simultaneously be an oven, a stove, heat water and the room, and also be a warm bed.

Such changes became possible when an additional “summer” damper for the cooking chamber was installed into the design.

The modern version of the stove is capable of maintaining a comfortable temperature over an area of ​​35 ÷ 40 m².

When starting to work on a Russian stove, it is necessary to carry out preparatory activities, which begin with planning the installation site.

Choosing a location for a Russian stove

Very important point is the correct choice of the place where the structure will be built. If the oven is installed in wooden building, then the distance between its walls and the walls of the house must be carefully thought out, which must be at least 200 mm. In addition, wooden walls must be secured by securing them to non-flammable material- Asbestos boards are most often used for this. This gap will also ensure free inspection of the furnace walls, which must be carried out before the start of each heating season.

If a place is chosen for construction between two rooms, then the opening in the wooden wall must be lined with brickwork, also at least 200 mm thick. Additionally, between the masonry and the wood, you can install a gasket from the same asbestos sheet.

Masonry tools

Whatever stove model is chosen, the same tools will be needed to lay it, which must be prepared in advance.

1 – A trowel or trowel is necessary for taking masonry mortar from the container and applying it to the bricks, as well as for cleaning the masonry from excess mixture that has protruded between the seams.

2 – A hammer-pick will be needed for trimming and splitting bricks, since during the work you will have to adjust individual elements masonry or give them a certain shape.

3 – Jointing will be needed if the stove will not be finished decorative tiles, and the masonry should have a perfectly neat appearance. This tool is used to create horizontal and vertical seams.

4 – A mooring cord is used to control the evenness of the rows, but more often in our time, when laying the walls of furnaces, craftsmen are limited to the building level and plumb line.

5 – Ordering is a very useful device that will help maintain the verticality of the masonry, as well as maintain the same thickness of horizontal seams.

6 – A plumb line also measures the verticality of a wall, and its convenience lies in the fact that it can be easily and quickly installed in the right place.

7 – Building level is indispensable when working on any masonry, so it should always be at hand, as it checks the evenness of each laid row, when it is still possible to quickly make any changes.

8 – The rule is most often used only once, when leveling the foundation surface.

9 – Spatula and container for mixing the solution.

10 – It’s also a good idea to have a measuring stick that will be used to measure the width of the seams.

Necessary materials

For each furnace model, its own amount of materials is purchased, depending on its size. In addition to the masonry of the walls and all its internal sections (in accordance with the order) Construction Materials will also be required for the construction of the foundation, which must be made very reliably, since the Russian stove is a fairly massive structure.

You shouldn’t save money by buying cheap, low-quality building materials if you want the building to be respectable appearance, and worked effectively for its intended purpose.

Below is the table necessary materials for the construction of a Russian stove measuring 1600 mm wide, 2380 mm long and 1900 ÷ 2000 mm high, which is often called the “Teplushka”.

Name of materials and elements	Size in mm	Quantity (pcs, kg or m)
Tempered red brick M-200	250 × 120 × 65	1850 - 1860 pcs.
Oily clay	-	250 kg
Cleaned sand	-	300 kg
Two-burner hob	400×700	1
Grate	200×280	2
Grate	250×380	1
Fire door	250×210	1
Fire door	250×180	1
Cleaning door	130×130	2
Cleaning door	130×200	1
Blower door	250×150	1
Smoke valve	180×260	1
Flap for the furnace	380×450	1
Hot water tank	280 × 120 × 500	1
Steel corner	5×60×60	1.5 m
Steel strip	5 × 50 - 60	20 - 25 m
Steel sheet	5 mm	1

In addition to materials for laying the furnace, it is necessary to purchase everything necessary for constructing the foundation - crushed stone, formwork boards, sand, reinforcement with a diameter of 8 ÷ 10 mm and cement, the amount of these materials will depend on the depth and width of the base.

Prices for refractory bricks

Fire brick

Foundation for a Russian stove

The Russian stove is a very massive structure, so you can’t do without a reliable foundation for it

Since a brick Russian stove is a fairly massive structure, the base for it must be strong and reliable. Therefore it is necessary good foundation, for which you will have to dig a corresponding pit.

• The size of the pit should exceed the perimeter of the stove base by 120 ÷ 150 mm in each direction. The depth of the pit is calculated depending on the density and stability of the soil, but its average value varies between 500 and 700 mm.
• The bottom of the finished pit is covered with sand, which is watered and thoroughly compacted until the thickness of this waterproofing layer reaches 150 ÷ ​​200 mm.
• Crushed stone or broken brick is poured onto the sand, which is also compacted. This layer should be 100 ÷150 mm, and then it should be leveled with a small layer of sand, which also spilled with water and leveled.
• Next, two layers of roofing material are laid on this “pie”. Then, formwork made from boards is installed on the roofing felt, and so that the concrete solution monolithically fills the box and does not leak into the gaps between the boards, the walls of the formwork are covered with dense polyethylene film.
• The solution is made from cement (one part), sand (three parts), crushed stone (five parts) and water, with the help of which the mixture is brought to the required semi-liquid consistency.
• Rough material is poured into the prepared formwork concrete solution, which made from gravel and cement. The thickness of the initially poured layer should be 200 ÷ 220 mm. To prevent air bubbles from forming in the poured concrete, it is pierced several times with a bayonet shovel, while simultaneously compacting the solution.
• When the solution begins to set, reinforcement bars are installed vertically into it, 50 ÷ 70 mm long above the poured surface.
• Next, the next layer of mortar with a thickness of 100 ÷ 150 mm is poured. After it has set, a reinforcing mesh is laid on the surface, and the formwork is filled to the top with mortar, and then the filled surface is leveled according to the rule, but to the established horizon (usually this is the top edge formwork).
• After the concrete has completely hardened and gained the necessary strength, the surface is covered with another layer of roofing material.

Mortar for laying the stove

The mortar for laying the stove must be elastic and thin, and when dry, it must not crack and seal the seams well. It is not easy to prepare the correct solution, so every stove master has his own secrets in selecting materials and mixing the mixture.

Today, in specialized stores you can purchase ready-made heat-resistant mixtures intended for laying the walls of furnaces. However, according to experienced stove makers, a real traditional clay mortar with the addition of sand is much preferable to ready-made cement-based mixtures. This is true for various reasons, one of which is the environmental friendliness of the solution.

Main difficulty self-made clay solution consists in selecting clay, since this material can be excessively oily or, conversely, lean. For the mortar that will be used to build the stove, you need to choose fatty clay - it is this clay that will make the mixture elastic, which is very important for obtaining high-quality, even and durable seams.

Choose the right proportions for quality solution quite difficult, and this process will take some time.

• To do this, the purchased clay must be Firstly, thoroughly cleaned of various debris and foreign inclusions, and then soaked for a day in water.
• Next, small portions are mixed in different proportions with sand. From this mass, cakes one centimeter thick are made, after which they are left to dry for two to three days, after recording how many parts of clay and sand are in each of the test mixtures.
• After the specified time, you need to check which of the experimental cakes has fewer cracks - this means that the entire solution must be mixed in exactly these proportions.

Before mixing the entire mass, it is recommended to rub the soaked clay through a mesh with cells measuring 5 mm. This process makes the mass as homogeneous as possible and eliminates problems during laying.

To lay out the firebox, fireclay powder is often added to the finished clay solution instead of sand in a ratio of one to three to four, that is, one part of powder to 3-4 parts of clay solution.

Prices for fireproof mortar for stoves and fireplaces

Fireproof mortar for stoves and fireplaces

Masonry of a Russian stove

In order for the stove to be safe for the residents of the house, the masonry must be absolutely airtight, so you cannot use low-quality bricks that have cracks. The thickness of the seams between rows should vary between 5 ÷ 8 mm. It is not recommended to coat the inside of the furnace walls with clay in order to achieve the desired tightness, since the solution will promote the formation of soot deposits and reduce thermal conductivity.

The masonry is carried out in different sections of the furnace in one brick(length bricks), half a brick (width bricks) and a quarter bricks(thickness bricks).

The corners of the furnace are bandaged different ways, depending on the thickness of the masonry, but basic principle is the interweaving of spoon and poke brick.

Before masonry ceramic brick It is recommended to soak, since in this case it will not absorb water from the mortar, and therefore the brick and mortar will dry evenly, showing high mutual adhesion and giving good tightness of the walls.

Excess mortar protruding from the seams must be removed immediately, both from the outside and from the inside of the masonry - this will ensure the neatness and maximum functionality of the structure.

External walls can be laid out in one or half brick, but internal walls are usually only half brick. If the outer walls are thick, the oven will take longer to warm up and will require a large number of fuel, so half a brick is the most optimal option for laying both internal and external walls of a heating structure.

Find out two different ways how to do it from our new article.

Ordinary masonry of the stove

The order can be called the basic instructions for laying a stove, which shows in detail how each brick should lie in a given row, and which of them additional elements used at a specific stage. By following these instructions exactly, you can slowly “raise” the stove structure yourself. The only thing that is recommended to learn is how to correctly lay and align rows of bricks. Such training is best done first on dry bricks, and then with mortar.

Experienced stove makers advise laying each of the rows dry - this will allow you to adjust the sizes of all the bricks to those required in this particular row, and not make mistakes in the intricacies of the internal masonry.

• The first row sets the right direction, ensures the evenness and neatness of the entire building, therefore, before starting its laying, even dry, it is recommended to draw out the exact location external walls ovens. This can be done using a long ruler, a corner and chalk.

The first row is solid. It must be perfect, as it will determine the evenness of the entire structure

The bricks of the outer wall are first laid on the marked surface, and then the internal space between them is filled, following the pattern indicated in the order.

• From the second row, the walls of the furnace begin to be laid out, the internal channels for cleaning, as well as the ash chamber, are formed.

Third row - installation of cast iron doors

• On the third row, two two chambers are installed - a blower chamber and a cleaning chamber. The doors are secured using steel wire, which is screwed to the lugs located on the cast iron doors, and its ends are placed in the seams between the bricks. Before the doors are completely embedded in the wall, they are temporarily supported on both sides with bricks.

4th row - the arch of the bottom space is closed

• On the fourth row, the masonry covers the top entrances to all internal channels on the walls of the furnace, forming holes, and completely forms the ceiling of the hearth channel inside the building.

Fifth row - a large grate and a small firebox door are installed

• On the fifth row, a grate for a large firebox is laid, and the internal masonry of the firebox is installed without mortar. Very often, fireclay bricks, cut in half in thickness, are used for this purpose. On the same row, a small firebox door is installed above the hearth channel.

• The masonry of the sixth row includes the installation of a water heating tank. The inner layer of the firebox continues to be laid with fireclay bricks.

Seventh row: tie the side wall with a strip, install the grate in the small firebox, and the doors in the large firebox

• On the seventh row, a grate is installed in the small firebox and a door on the large firebox. The right wall is tightened with a steel strip, which is placed in the seam and secured to the walls with specially arranged hooks at the ends. The back wall of a large firebox is laid out with bricks without mortar. On the outer wall, on internal masonry Gaps are arranged between the bricks for better heat transfer.

• On the eighth and ninth rows, the small firebox door is installed and secured, and the removal of the internal furnace channels continues.

The tenth row is laying the bottom of the crucible. The water heating tank is completely closed

• On the tenth row, the bottom of the cooking chamber (furnace) is laid out and the arches of two fireboxes are combined - small and large. The channel openings in the rear of the building, which are designed to move heated air, are left open and discharged into the cooking chamber. Also on this row the water heating tank is closed.

11th row - everything is ready for installation hob

• On the eleventh row, on the edge of the masonry, above the two fireboxes, the prepared metal corner 50x50 mm - it will be a good basis for installing a hob in that place. Remaining open space The large firebox behind the stove is covered with a grate, which is not fixed.

• On the twelfth row, the front wall of the cooking chamber and the side walls of the hob begin to be decorated. A valve is installed horizontally on the left side of the stove, which will serve as a damper for the cooking chamber. To the left of the valve, the formation of the bottom of the chimney begins. The damper will block the hole between the furnace and the chimney.

13th row - continuation of the masonry upwards

• On the thirteenth row, work follows the same configuration of the pattern as given in row 12.

• On the fourteenth row, an entrance to the chimney pipe is formed, which will open when the vertical valve installed for the cooking chamber is moved. In addition, the walls of the furnace are removed, and a hole is made for the damper

• On the fifteenth row, the masonry begins to narrow, blocking the cooking chamber. At the same time, the chimney pipe is removed.

• The fastening of the side walls with metal strips with stoppers located on the outer sides of the walls occurs on the sixteenth row, after the masonry is laid, repeating the 15th row.

17th row: after laying - several operations with metal structures

• On the seventeenth row, several significant actions are performed:

- the screed is installed with a metal strip back wall ovens;

- the narrowing of the arch of the cooking chamber continues and a place is arranged to begin laying the arch;

— further masonry takes place;

- above the niche where the hob is installed, a metal corner and strip are laid - they will become the basis for laying bricks, which will begin to create a ceiling above the stove.

Row 18 - outer walls and plus laying out the domed arch of the furnace

• On the eighteenth row, a template is installed on the back of the furnace, above the furnace (or a structure of metal strips in the shape of an arch is welded). The dome-shaped arch of the cooking chamber is laid out according to the template. In this case, the bricks are installed on the end part - spoons.

A row of bricks is laid on the installed metal corner and strip, placing them on the wide part of the brick - the bed.

If a template made of plywood and a block is chosen for the arch, it must be made collapsible so that it can be easily removed after the mortar that holds the bricks that form the arch has hardened. Two semicircular parts are cut out of plywood, which are secured with removable pins to two rectangular frames or bars and placed on the underlying bricks.

The design roughly looks like this.

On top of the semicircles are covered with a flooring of narrow boards, which are assembled together using ropes, i.e. the flooring will be flexible. After the mortar hardens in the masonry, the supporting bricks are removed, the structure is lowered to the bottom of the cooking chamber, then the flexible flooring is removed, the pins are pulled out, and then all the elements are removed from the crucible.

• Next, on 21- ohm in a row, the surface covered with sand, together with the walls, is covered with masonry, and in the front part there is a narrowing of the overtube.

22nd row - installation metal panel with round hole

• At 22- ohm In a row, the overpipe is narrowed and a metal element with a round corner hole is installed, which will help redirect the smoke, somehow retaining heat.

23rd row - installation of the cleaning window door for the chimney

• On the 23rd row, the overpipe continues to be removed, and a door is installed to allow cleaning of the chimney.

• On 24- ohm In a row, a valve is installed on the over-pipe, which will regulate the draft in the furnaces and crucible.

• When laying the 25th and 26th rows, the space above the valve is even more covered with masonry.

• At 27- om - 29th in rows the overpipe is combined with the chimney.
• Next comes the masonry and rises to the level where the groove begins to form. Recommended when passing through a chimney attic floor do masonry with cement mortar.

Walkthrough brick pipe through the ceiling - cutting (fluffing)

• After this, having passed the pipe through the attic, it is taken out to the roof, laying out the otter and making reliable waterproofing around it, which will close the gaps between the chimney and the roofing material.

Video: Ordinal masonry of two versions of the Russian stove

Drying the lined stove

After completing the masonry process, the stove cannot be heated at full capacity immediately, since in this case it will dry unevenly and unsightly stains will appear on the surface of the walls. In addition, the mortar at the seams may crack, and the walls will depressurize.

To prevent this from happening, the oven must undergo a natural drying process for 10 ÷ 12 days. In this case, all latches and doors must be opened. In order to create favorable conditions to dry the furnace structure, in this case, you can place an ordinary electric light bulb of 200 ÷ 250 W in the cooking chamber for the entire drying time.

After completing the first stage of drying, you can move on to forced measures - start heating the stove with a small amount of firewood, with the smoke valves open, but with the fireboxes closed.

The stove is heated for 7 ÷ 10 days according to a special system: in the first two days only 3 ÷ 4.5 kg of firewood is used for heating, every day adding 1 ÷ 1.5 kg of fuel to the initial amount, and so on throughout the forced period drying.

You can check the readiness of the furnace for full operation as follows. If, after starting the next fire, no drops of condensate appear on the metal elements within 1.5 ÷ 2 hours, then you can safely carry out a full-fledged control fire using a lot of firewood.

If, after a long drying period and carrying out a control fire, minor cracks still appear in the seams between the rows of masonry, do not rush to repair them. They need to be monitored during the heating season. During this time, they will either stop in one position or expand a little more. Only after the end of the heating season can repairs be carried out, repairing any defects that have appeared.

Safety precautions when starting to use the stove

Having a Russian stove in your home is simply wonderful, as it has always been considered a source of warmth and special comfort. However, you need to remember about safety measures, since if they are not followed, the oven can become a source of increased danger.

Before the start of each heating season, it is necessary to carry out a thorough inspection of all masonry joints - they must be airtight and not have deep cracks. Seal the cracks that appear with a solution of clay with the addition of sand.

If, after starting the fire, smoke appears in the room, it means that there is no normal draft, and such a faulty stove should not be heated under any circumstances. You need to immediately check whether all the valves on the chimney are open. If the chimney is completely open, but smoke continues to flow into the room, it means that the chimney ducts need to be cleaned.

The chimney must be checked and cleaned at least once a year. However, if the stove is new and high-quality fuel is used, then the chimney, in fact, should not be bothered for several years. If smoke occurs in this case, there is a risk that the masonry was done incorrectly somewhere, and you will have to invite a specialist to fix the problems.

If you follow safety rules and have good equipment, the stove will not be a source of danger, but will become faithful assistant, which will help out in many cases. In addition to the fact that this structure has a very wide functionality, a Russian stove will also create a unique, original flavor and special comfort in the house.

And at the end of the article - another video showing in detail the work of a specialist in the professional laying of a traditional Russian stove.

Video: The work of a master building a Russian stove

When you mention the Russian stove, associations arise with fairy tales and magic. And also - with incredibly tasty and aromatic dishes and warm atmosphere. It is amazing that the fire of her simple hearth has not gone out even in our technological era. Thanks to the revival individual construction this wonderful heating unit is still held in high esteem by its owners today country houses. Make it yourself, having it on hand detailed instructions, it won't be that difficult.

Why are Russian stoves so popular?

The incredible “survivability” of the Russian stove lies in its functionality - it is used both as a cooking unit and as a heating unit, and the latter, contrary to popular belief, is by no means the primary function. In its simplest form, the design is a very deep fireplace, essentially a large firebox with a chimney.

Russian stove of traditional design

Thanks to the thick walls and massive arch, the heat-storing ability of the Russian stove can be the envy of any other solid fuel unit. The same factor also plays into the benefits of efficiency. The structure can remain warm throughout the day, so it does not require a lot of firewood to maintain the temperature within a comfortable range. Here it is impossible not to mention the extremely convenient design with a bed or bed.

The design of the Russian stove is also unique in terms of creating culinary masterpieces. The wide temperature gradient of the firebox is very convenient to use during cooking. If it is necessary to obtain rapid heating, the cast iron with its contents is moved closer to the hearth. If it is necessary to reduce the intensity of boiling, then it is moved to the periphery, closer to the sides. By the way, the Russian stove has a unique ability that no other heating and cooking unit has. The walls and roof of the furnace heated to a high temperature are capable of maintaining very high temperature even after the fuel has completely burned out. Surface emitted infrared rays They allow you to bake or simmer foods for a long time, obtaining an incomparable taste and a golden, appetizing crust. The advantage of this method of cooking also lies in the fact that it does not come into contact with either fire or a gaseous environment, so there can be no talk of any carcinogens.

Today the Russian stove is an extremely functional heating device with hob, water heater and seating area

Modern heating devices can be classified according to the presence of one of the following characteristics:

• The presence of a slab and a flood. The hob is built directly into the body of the stove, creating a so-called hearth, which was made blind in the canonical model.
• Placement of a fireplace on the back side of the stove, which opens into the adjacent room. The practicality of this method is extremely high, since with two heating devices there is no need to construct separate chimneys and foundation slabs.
• Attached to the stove is a coarse or trestle bed. They still, as before, increase the comfort and convenience of the heating device, although the dimensions of modern beds cannot be compared with the dimensions traditional ovens, which were designed for 3–4 people.

The integration of the stove into the array of the Russian stove not only expanded its cooking capabilities, but also made it possible to heat the side heating shield and bottom part designs. Based on this factor, units with side heating are distinguished, which are used for heating next room, as well as heat generators with bottom heating. The presence of a flood in the latter makes it possible to warm up the walls that are below the level of the hearth. Due to increased heat transfer, it becomes possible to heat a room of increased area without the need to expand the dimensions of the device.

Bottom heating significantly increases thermal performance

Advantages and disadvantages (table)

pros	Minuses
High efficiency - from 50 to 70%.	The ability to operate only on fuels that do not require increased air flow. It will not be possible to convert it to gas or fuel oil.
Safe design.	Cumbersome design. Additional load on the floor - it can only be installed on the first floor.
Undemanding to materials - when building a furnace, you can only get by with brick, sand and clay.	After cooling, the unit requires a long warm-up.
Uniform heat transfer.	Ineffective smoke circulation - due to miscalculations in construction, the heating device may smoke.
Durability.	Inconvenience when cleaning the firebox from ash.
Possibility of heating the adjacent room.
Convenience and comfort of a bed.
The surface of the bed can emit infrared energy for a long time, which has an excellent therapeutic effect.

In addition, a Russian stove will require the owner to be able to handle a grip, a frying pan, pots and cast iron, and not every modern woman will like this. If you are ready to put up with minor inconveniences, then this literally fabulous unit will be able to thank the owner not only with warmth and delicious food, but also healthy sleep, as well as wonderful healing procedures.

See also a step-by-step guide to building a Dutch oven with your own hands:.

Device and design features

Built according to all the canons, the furnace has many structural elements.

Schematic representation of the main parts of a Russian stove

1. Sub-bake. The recess at the base of the stove is intended for storing and drying firewood. Today, many owners refuse the oven to simplify and reduce the cost of the design and do it completely in vain. More convenient and practical place It is impossible to find fuel.
2. A stove is a cold niche for storing dishes.
3. The hearth is a flat horizontal surface in front of the crucible. Here you can leave food pulled from the fireplace so that it can be for a long time was hot. There are designs of stoves in which a hob is installed in this place.
4. Pod or flank - the bottom of the furnace (cooking chamber) located at a slight slope to the hearth. Deviation from the horizontal towards the outlet makes it easy to move heavy cast iron.
5. The crucible is a space inside the furnace that simultaneously serves as a firebox and a cooking chamber. As in the case of the finial, the ceiling of the furnace has a slope towards the exit. This allows you to trap hot gases under the roof, so they have time to warm up the array of the heating device. Between the hearth and the hearth there is a bend, or a bend, a kind of transition zone between the horizontal sections of the furnace with different temperatures.
6. Overtrumpeting is the same as hailo. In a Russian stove, this is a smoke collector located above the hearth. Behind it begins a chimney.
7. A samovar (also known as a dushnik) is a narrow channel leading directly into the chimney, which is intended to connect the samovar pipe. Modern stoves do not have a choke.
8. Vertical flue above the pole
9. A view is a hatch that completely blocks the chimney. Through the view window there is access to valve 10, which regulates the draft in the furnace.
10. Gate valve chimney.
11. Bed.

Another illustration clearly shows the structure of the internal chambers of the structure. The stove, which can be seen in the bottom picture, is intended for drying fruits, mushrooms and berries. As you can see, the thickness of the walls between the niche and the crucible is not more bricks, which actually turns the stove into a kind of modern oven of Swedish wood-burning heat generators.

Structure internal space Russian stove

The heating device has a huge impact on the performance of the heating device, which is a kind of recuperator: the incoming air flow is heated flue gases. Mixing does not occur due to various densities gases, and experiments have shown the absence of turbulence even at the interface between two gas flows. To avoid turbulence, the surfaces of the heel and fold are made as smooth as possible. Otherwise, turbulence will carry away some of the oxygen, which will increase the gas-generating ability of the heating device.

The oxygen entering the furnace supports intense combustion of the fuel. In this case, the heated gases rush to the roof of the furnace. Thanks to its inclination towards the mouth and a small threshold, which prevents the free escape of gases to the high, two stable zones of gas circulation are created. It is in them that the whole power of the Russian stove lies, but to form vortices you must strictly adhere to the basic dimensions.

In addition, the rotating flows retain unburned particles in the high-temperature flame zone for a long time, thereby increasing the completeness of fuel combustion. The heated roof and walls of the cooking chamber actively radiate energy into infrared range, evenly heating what is being cooked in the furnace. As for the crimp, it not only acts as a thermal economizer, but also allows you to keep food hot all day. To do this, it is enough to block the chimney and close the mouth with a wooden damper.

Thanks to the smoke circulation features, the stove remains warm for a long time

As you can see, the smoke circulation of a Russian stove has a minimal temperature gradient. The constancy of the temperature of the heated gases, as well as their constant circulation in the working area, leads to the fact that the smallest particles of fuel burn in the crucible without any residue. And here another important advantage of such a simple but carefully thought-out design appears. The fact is that ash is, of course, present in the heating unit, but with regards to soot and soot, they practically do not settle on the walls of the stove - you will only have to clean it a few times in its entire life.

Our website contains a large number of instructions for self-installation stoves of different designs and complexity, including the Kuznetsov stove: .

Dimensions, drawings and orders

There are many options for Russian stoves. We present drawings of some of them as an example.

Photo gallery: examples of drawings and procedures

Russian stove: drawings and orders Drawing of a Russian stove with bottom heating
Drawing of a Russian stove with a hob
Drawing of a Russian stove with a stove bench

Today we will not dwell on simple designs. Our goal is to build a practical and functional unit with a hob and a water heating tank that will satisfy any owner of a country home. Below you can see its drawings and procedures, and in the future we will provide complete instructions for making the stove, arranging the chimney and the procedure for putting the unit into operation.

Drawings and instructions for a Russian stove (photo gallery)

Drawing of an improved Russian stove Drawing and ordering
Order of the Russian stove: 1 - 24 row Order: 25 - 31 row Finished oven

Tools and materials

Laying a Russian stove: step-by-step instructions

Appearance of the future furnace

First of all, let me give you some tips that will make the work easier and the constructed structure safer.

1. Use only high-quality bricks that have no cracks in the body.
2. When filling the seams, there should be no voids or gaps inside, and their thickness should be within 5–8 cm. Remember that coating the walls with clay to make them airtight is not the best option, since thermal conductivity decreases.
3. Before laying the brick, it is recommended to soak it - in this case, it will not draw liquid from the mortar.

Brick is soaked before laying for another reason. During drying, it will be dehydrated simultaneously with the solution, which will contribute to better adhesion and strengthening of the walls.

In order for the design to be neat, the excess clay squeezed out of the seams must be immediately picked up, preventing it from drying out. The walls of the furnace can be laid out in brick or half a brick, while the internal chambers can be half or even a quarter of its size. Experienced craftsmen A medium-sized stove is most often made up to 15 cm thick, arguing that this way it warms up faster and does not require additional fuel for preliminary combustion.

It is convenient to carry out the laying, focusing on the order. To do this, the diagram is printed on separate sheets of paper in order to follow the selected instructions during the work process.

1. The first row is laid out with special care, because it determines the geometric correspondence and evenness of the structure. For novice stove makers, it is better to draw the contours of the stove with chalk on the base or first do a dry dry installation. When working, adhere to the following order: first lay out the outer perimeter of the structure, and then fill it according to the order diagram.

   

   The laying of the 1st row is carried out continuously

2. The second row begins to form the walls, cleaning channels and the bottom of the ash pan.

   

   The masonry of the 2nd row begins to form the internal chambers

3. Before starting the third row, install the blower door and the cleaning chamber hatch. They can be secured securely in the masonry using pieces of steel wire, which are screwed to the door frames at one end and placed in the brick joint at the other.

   

   Starting with the 3rd row, cast iron doors are installed

   To prevent the junction points of the stove cast iron from cracking during operation, the metal elements can be wrapped with asbestos cord or the gaps can be sealed using a basalt sealant.

4. The fourth row closes the cavities located near the walls and forms the overlap of the bottom channel.

   

   Laying the 4th row

5. Starting from the fifth row, grates are installed and the firebox begins to form. Often, fireclay bricks cut into two parts are used for these purposes. At the same level, the door of the small fuel chamber is mounted, which is located below the bottom channel.

   

   5th row: installation of the grate and combustion door

6. On the sixth row, a firebox is laid out and a water heater is installed.

   

   Installation of a water heating tank in row 6

7. Seventh row. Installation of grate bars for the small fuel chamber and large combustion door. The right wall is pulled together with a metal strip, which is laid in the seam and secured to the outer edges of the bricks with vertical hooks. Like side surfaces firebox, its back wall is laid out dry. In this case, the parts of the firebox adjacent to the outer walls are made with gaps to improve heat transfer.

   

   Features of the 7th row masonry

8. The eighth and ninth rows continue to expand the internal channels, and also secure the small fire door.

   

   Laying the 8th and 9th rows

9. In the tenth row, the arches of both fireboxes are connected, simultaneously laying out the bottom of the furnace. In this case, the openings of the channels located at the rear wall must be open. Here, several bricks cover the water tank.

   

   The 10th row forms the bottom of the crucible

10. On the 11th row, the base for the hob is prepared, for which a steel corner is attached above the fire doors. In addition, a grate is installed in the rear of the large firebox.

    

    11th row: installation of the hob

11. The 12th and 13th rows form the base of the chimney and the walls of the cooking chamber (crucible). A valve is also installed here, which will block the channel between the main chamber and the chimney.

    

    12th and 13th row

12. In the 14th row, they begin to arrange a side passage from the furnace to the smoke channel, build up the walls of the cooking chamber and make a hole for the valve.

    

    14th row: we form a channel for the removal of combustion products

13. From the 15th row they begin to narrow the masonry to cover the furnace and carry out further forcing smoke channel.

    

    In the 15th row they begin to form the base of the crucible arch

14. On the 16th row, the side walls of the furnace are fastened with metal strips in the same way as was done with the right side of the unit in the seventh row.

    

    Features of masonry of the 16th row

15. 17th row. Place a second metal corner over the niche of the hob and arrange the side bases of the roof of the hob.

    

    Work carried out when laying the 17th row

16. On the 18th row, install a domed template and lay out arched vault crucible.

    

    Arched vault of the 18th row

17. In the 19th row, a metal strip is used to strengthen the wall at the mouth of the furnace. They continue to build up the side walls, which are needed to hold the backfill.

    

    Fastening the metal strip in the 19th row

18. 20th row. Increase the height of the walls by one more brick, after which the vault for better thermal insulation covered with sand.

    

    After laying the 20th row, the outer side of the furnace roof is covered with sand.

19. The 21st row forms the overlap of the furnace. This is where the overpipe begins to narrow.

    

    21st row: overlap covering the furnace filling

20. To reduce the gas flow rate, a metal sheet with a cut out round opening is installed in the 22nd row. Continue to reduce the cross-section of the overtube.

    

    Features of the construction of the furnace in the 22nd row

21. In the 23rd row, a cleaning door is installed in the smoke channel and the outlet channel is expanded.

    

    

    The last rows of the stove combine the overpipe with the chimney

After this, the work on constructing the furnace is considered completed. All that remains is to build a chimney, after which it will be possible to carry out a test fire.

Chimney installation

The chimney required for the operation of a Russian stove is absolutely no different from the chimney of any stationary solid fuel unit, be it a “Dutch”, “Swedish” or some new-fangled bell-type stove, calculated using computer modeling. The design and arrangement of the chimney can be taken from the drawing below.

Chimney device for a Russian stove with orders

• The design and installation location of the pipe for removing combustion products must comply with the standards of the current SNiP.
• At the point of transition from the ceiling to the attic, the pipe should thicken.
• The lower part of the chimney is placed on the same solution as the stove.
• The internal cross-section of the smoke duct must correspond to the power of the heating device.
• Above the roof, the chimney is built using a mortar with the addition of cement.
• The places where the pipe passes through the ceilings are insulated using non-flammable and waterproofing materials.

During work, the geometry of the structure and the deviation from the vertical are constantly monitored using a level or plumb line.

Methods for finishing Russian stoves

Decorating a Russian stove is done in several ways:

• jointing of brickwork;
• plastering;
• finishing ceramic tiles or tiles.

Joining brickwork is the most in a simple way, which is quite good for modern interiors. The main thing is that this method of decoration should be planned from the very beginning, since the aesthetics of the structure directly depends on the quality of the material and the neatness of the masonry. As a rule, facing bricks with smooth side walls are used for laying external walls.

If the goal is to build a Russian stove according to ancient canons, then it must be plastered with a special clay mortar with the addition of chaff. After drying, the outer surfaces are covered with a solution of white clay in water. Such whitewashing is an environmentally friendly coating that is safe for others. In addition, thanks to it, the basis is prepared for the final finishing - painting. The patterns that cover the walls of the stove can repeat a national ornament or scenes from fairy tales, represent floral curls, stylization of Gzhel, Khokhloma, etc. - it all depends on the created mood and preferences of the owner. Wide choose plaster mixtures allows you to replace the old composition with a more modern “bark beetle” or “lamb”.

For finishing with ceramic tiles, only heat-resistant types of tiles are used - terracotta, majolica, heat-resistant clinker or porcelain stoneware. In addition, Russian stoves are often lined with tiles. Note that although decorating with ceramic tiles is one of the most beautiful and practical methods of finishing, after it the arrogance and luxury of the “Dutch” begins to be visible in the design, and not everyone will like this.

How to decorate a Russian stove (photo gallery)

Decorating with painted ceramic tiles The tiles can be laid not continuous, but in wide decorative stripes
Finishing with tiles A stove lined with tiles often begins to resemble a stylish “Dutch” Traditional method finishing- whitewash Painting - traditional way Russian stove finishing

If you plan not to embroider the masonry, but to cover it with ceramic tiles or plaster, then be sure to attach a metal mesh to the surface of the walls. Otherwise, the decorative finish will fall off when the structure heats up.

The procedure for putting the heating device into operation

Having built a stove, in no case should you rush to try its heating capabilities to their full potential. It must be handled with care and precision, since with intense heating, the walls located closer to the hearth will dry out much faster than distant surfaces. The difference in thermal expansion of wet and dry materials is quite significant, so there is a danger of cracks appearing at the boundaries of the seams. To avoid trouble, all oven openings are opened and dried under natural conditions for two weeks.

Due to the need for long-term drying of the furnace, it is recommended to begin its construction in the warm season.

To speed up the process of removing moisture or when drying a structure under unfavorable conditions weather conditions a fan heater or a powerful electric lamp can be placed in the furnace and firebox. In this case, the oven doors are closed and the channels are left open.

The fire is lit only after completely dry walls

The furnace is fired only after the pre-drying period has been completed.. To do this, during the first two days, no more than 3–4 kg of firewood is placed in the unit, adding 1 kg of fuel every day for a decade. The readiness of the furnace for full operation is judged by the absence of condensation on the internal surfaces of metal parts. The heating device is tested several times at half power, after which the operation of the unit is checked at maximum mode. During “break-in”, be sure to inspect the surfaces of the walls for the appearance of cracks and their possible increase. The defects that appear are repaired only after the stove has been heated at full strength several times.

1. After a long period of inactivity, be sure to check all visible surfaces for tightness of seams. Any cracks that appear must be repaired with clay mortar.
2. Before each fire, check for draft. If smoke from the furnace enters the room, the stove must not be used under any circumstances. Perhaps one of the valves is closed or the chimney needs to be cleaned.
3. You can close the view only after the firewood has completely burned out.
4. It is recommended to remove soot from internal surfaces ovens at the beginning of each season. In fact, the stove gets dirty very little and after construction it will not require cleaning for several years. However, it all depends on the smokiness and quality of the fuel used.

Video: creating a Russian brick oven with your own hands

A correctly and carefully built Russian stove will not only provide the room with comfortable warmth, but will also create a unique original style, so dear and close that any guest will be forever fascinated and captivated by the interior of your home. If you also use the heating device for cooking, you will be able to fully experience the taste and aroma of real Russian pies, daily cabbage soup or aromatic stewed porridge.

Thanks to my varied hobbies, I write on different topics, but my favorite ones are machinery, technology and construction. Perhaps because I know many nuances in these areas, not only theoretically, due to my studies in technical university and graduate school, but also with practical side, because I try to do everything with my own hands.