How to make openings for doors. How to safely break through a wall and make a doorway yourself? About the frame and door
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Over time, many of us come to the decision to change the existing layout of our home, so quite often the question arises of how to break through a door in the wall, make an arch or opening, combining two rooms into one. It is relatively easy to carry out the necessary repair work if you have construction skills. However, it is necessary to take into account not only the structural features of the building, but also some legal aspects. Before carrying out redevelopment, it is mandatory to approve the future redevelopment project, as well as obtain permission from the Housing Inspectorate of the city or district. The initial stage includes preliminary preparatory work, the acquisition of equipment and building materials necessary for the work.
Preparatory stage
If there is a need to make an opening in brick, stone, or concrete walls, you will need a hammer drill with various attachments, an angle grinder, a saw with diamond blades, a sledgehammer, a jackhammer, a chisel, a tape measure, a pencil, and a construction vacuum cleaner. All work must be carried out with extreme caution, adhering to strict sequence and safety precautions, since redevelopment is a rather labor-intensive, complex and responsible process. Before starting repair work, it is necessary to check whether there is any wiring, utilities or chimney pipe in the wall where the opening is made, the minimum distance to which must be at least 300 m. If necessary, the wiring can be moved. You also need to take into account in which brick wall (load-bearing, non-load-bearing, rigidity) the door or arched opening will be punched, so as not to deform and weaken the entire supporting structure of the building. If an opening for a door is made in non-load-bearing walls, in order to reduce the risk of collapse and prevent deformation, markings are made, and the dismantling of bricks begins from the top rows (from top to bottom), pointing the chisel perpendicular to the surface. In addition, you must first draw up a design for the doorway.
Old coverings, wallpaper and a layer of plaster are removed from the surface of brick walls. The plaster layer is removed until the brick appears. Then, using a tape measure, mark the markings of the future opening with a pencil or chalk. To prevent the wall from sagging and collapsing, you need to know how to strengthen the doorway correctly. First of all, you need to make a reinforcing jumper from a corner measuring at least 35 mm. To do this, cut off two corners, which should be 35-40 cm longer than the opening. The reinforcing lintel provides a protective function, taking part of the load from the wall above the future opening, from the supporting floors, as well as from the walls of the upper floors and the roof structure. The safety of the entire wall and building structure completely depends on the quality of the mounted lintel. It is preferable to use durable steel to make the lintel. When designing a lintel, you need to take into account the following aspects: the size (length and width) of the doorway in relation to the total area of the walls; distance from the opening to adjacent walls; distance from the upper border of the opening to the ceilings; thickness, general condition and building material from which the wall is constructed, its quality and technical characteristics; number of floors above the doorway; location of floor slabs.
Sequence of work
After completing the preparatory stage, you can proceed to the main work, namely dismantling the brick wall and punching an opening for installing the door. To do this, it is preferable to use a sledgehammer with a chisel, a saw with a diamond blade, or a jackhammer. Using a grinder with diamond wheels and a hammer drill, you need to drill the top of the opening on both sides of the wall, which should be 17-22 cm larger than the width of the doorway itself. The depth and width of the holes should be equal to the size and width of the corner. At the next stage, you need to insert pre-prepared steel corners into the holes made and secure them with anchor pins. The cracks are filled with cement-concrete mixture. When using a diamond wheel, work is carried out in protective glasses. Along the pre-marked lines of the doorway, using a grinder, the wall is cut to such a depth as the diameter of the diamond wheel allows, after which they begin to gradually remove the bricks using a sledgehammer (perforator). It is worth noting that the brick needs to be dismantled on both sides of the wall, while only one layer of brickwork can be dismantled at one time. After dismantling the bricks on the sides, it will be quite easy to cut a hole further. At the next stage, the jumper is completed. To do this, two corners are welded together at the bottom or fastened together with metal plates or metal screws. At the final stage, the necessary finishing work is carried out and a new door is installed.
Punching an opening in concrete walls
Since concrete walls are mainly load-bearing, if there is no experience in carrying out such construction work, it is better to entrust the opening of the opening to professional craftsmen who can accurately carry out all the necessary calculations taking into account the design features of the framing and the reinforcing frame. Punching an opening in a load-bearing wall begins with markings, which are made on both sides. In order to transfer the markings to another surface of the wall, use a hammer drill and drills with a diameter of 10-12 mm, which make through cuts along the entire perimeter, retreating every three to four centimeters. Since concrete walls, unlike brick ones, have a greater density and thickness, all work is performed only with diamond discs.
After the opening for installing the door is made, a frame is made from steel corners, fixed to each other by welding, or channels of the required length are used. To install channels, niches are punched out on both sides of the wall using a jackhammer, or the work is done manually. Each recess for placing channels is well cleaned of brick residues and dust, after which a cement-concrete mixture is laid on the surface of the niches, moistened with water, and channels or corners are inserted into it. The resulting voids are covered with cellular concrete slabs and bricks of the required size. Screws are inserted into the holes made, washers are put on the ends and nuts are screwed on. After the cement mixture has completely dried and hardened, you can make an opening in the wall. A reinforcing metal mesh is mounted on the slopes and lintel and filled with a layer of concrete mortar on top. After plastering the surface, finishing work is carried out and the door is installed.
It is worth noting that if an opening for installing a door is made in an external wall, it is necessary to additionally consider insulation, which will prevent heat from penetrating into the room. For this purpose, special waterproofing building materials and insulation materials are used.
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Today, installing a door is not a very difficult task, since door manufacturers sell their products already complete with frame, hinges and handle, and often already painted or varnished. You can choose the right size interior doors for almost any opening. If the opening does not correspond to standard dimensions, then you will have to order a door made to an individual size. When installing, not only the width and height of the opening are taken into account, but also its thickness.
Before starting installation, you need to moisten the opening in order to achieve good adhesion of the mounting foam to the opening cavity.
Then the package is inserted into the opening and aligned vertically and horizontally. You need to focus on the width of the gap between the box and the canvas. In theory, it should be the same at least on opposite sides of the door.
Having completed the leveling, it is necessary to fix the sides of the box with fasteners, and seal the cavities with polyurethane foam. After the foam has dried, you need to remove its excess and attach the trim.
Only after this can the canvas itself be put in place. And finally, the operation of the door itself and the door lock is checked.
Installation of an interior door. An interior door is perhaps one of the most significant elements of a living space, not only functionally, but also as a design object.
Choosing and installing a door is a crucial step, since the beauty and comfort of the room largely depends on it.
Making an opening for a door in the wall
The door is installed after all repair work is completed, but it must be selected before the repair begins, so that later you do not have to expand or narrow the doorway.
The dealer network of stores is widely known and deservedly popular, selling doors of standard sizes designed for installation in standard doorways.
Before choosing a door, you need to measure the opening; if it is standard, then you can safely buy the sample you like; if not, then during the repair it will be necessary to adjust the opening to the dimensions of the door block, while being sure to leave a small gap so that the frame can fit in easily.
An ideal opening is one that is 80 mm larger in width and height than the door block, and its thickness is 75 mm.
A small gap around the perimeter of the box will be closed with platbands.
If the parameters of the doorway do not correspond to the standard ones, then it is better to make the door to order, then during installation you will not have to build up or saw the frame of the door block.
The work sequence is as follows:
1. Remove the base first
If there is a cement base, you can throw it in at the end with the last brick type. Cement plaster faces the outline of the door.
2. More bricks are cleared under the new lintel
at a level of 2.1-2.15 m, and the old cement mortar falls out of the brick in a molded niche.
The width of the embossed rope should be 100-300 mm greater than the width of the door frame being installed. When setting a door leaf of 60 cm, you need to confirm 4 bricks (in the image of a brick with a contour door that are cleaned, they are indicated in white) for doors from a leaf of 70, 80 and 90 cm - 5 bricks (the fifth brick is shown in purple in the picture) 6 need to burn rarely bricks, but sometimes it is necessary:
Picture 1.
Barrier markings under the neck.
For acid spray bricks, at least the first, accompanied by minimal loss of barrier rigidity around the brick mortar, preferably before perforating for drilling, or at least perforating the mortar around the brick. If the section is set for a long time, a high-quality and long-term solution, if it hits the bricks stupidly, will come out of the load effect, it will first need to be redistributed to the adjacent bricks, and therefore the physical force to knock the bricks down must consume much more.
And secondly, due to the redistribution of stress, the solution is completely destroyed in the place where the blows are performed. Perforation reduces the mortar surface and increases the likelihood that the brick will drop. This recommendation also applies to cases where the masonry solution is too weak and simply destroyed, and especially for partitions in the Kipriha quarter.
For example, the tensile strength of M150 mortar solution can reach 2-2.5 kg/cm2 several years after splitting the septum.
At the same time, the area of the destroyed mortar is about 700-800 cm2 around the brick on the floor of the brick wall. Accordingly, this solution can withstand a static load of up to 1.4-2 tons. Of course, during the operation, the multi-calc hammer produces a brick load, and the solution will be shock rather than static, but all are equal to pure bricks in such solutions for one blow of hammer hammers, the speed of the sled at the moment of contact with the brick permutation must be large enough, and the partition is deformed quite small.
And besides, if the barrier is high enough, as close as possible to the bricks in the middle of the height, the likelihood of the entire partition falling apart is higher.
When perforating, the surface of the mortar around the brick is reduced, in addition, the residual strength of the mortar is reduced, and the redistribution of load is significantly reduced.
However, they do not work well, but when the bricks under the bridge break, the bricks may also fall.
It's okay, you can wear them on a jumper.
3. A standard concrete or metal bridge is formed in the molded hole of the roller profiles
The jumper must be on the solution.
If there are no concrete overhangs or metal corners, you can use wood on site or place several reinforcement bars with a diameter of 12-20 mm.
fourth Closed cement slot
the rest after laying the lintel (especially the seam between the lintel and the old brick line). In Figure 2, the new solution is dark gray. Small cracks can be blasted with precast foam, but not just by stitching between the new lintel and the old brick line.
fifths After installing the jumper you need a technological break of 5-14 days
it is necessary for the new decision to be valid. After this, rows of bricks, of which the width of the new opening is 5-15 cm wider than the frame of the new doors.
How to make a door: punch a hole in a brick wall with your own hands
Since the septum was stored in a suit, it must be carefully done so as not to compromise the integrity of the indestructible part of the septum. This can be done in several ways:
6a. Remove the bricks first
which completely obstruct the new door. Half brick 1m above the ground, preventing new doors from appearing (in the image marked in red), smooth, in the scattered hammer part, blow or hammer and chisel.
The direction of the impact should not be perpendicular to the plane of the partition, so as not to destroy the partition; impacts should be applied from above or below. You can also completely mud these bricks and then install cast gaps with half a brick before installing the door. If in the following order there is enough space for the start of the percussion instrument, the remaining halves of the stop are selected or cut off by the Bulgarian tongue (they are marked in blue in the figure):
Figure 2.
Marking bricks under the neck.
6b. Cut hard faced bricks
Half a brick at a height of about 1 m from the floor, reaching the new door, cuts a Bulgarian cutting circle around the stone on both sides, and then digs it out.
The remaining distracting halves were demolished, as in the previous case.
6s. Immediately cut the Bulgarian bricks on both sides of the partition on the outline of the new door with the corresponding edge to install the door, and then remove the bricks.
The dustiest path. However, every job involves Bulgarian dust.
7. If the bottom line is a brick to be removed in a cement screed, then it must be pierced piece by piece. Using bulgark in unfavorable conditions and there will be more dust than usual.
After removing this line, the floor surface is leveled with a cement screed.
This is all and everything remains doors.
Making a door frame
There are two options for installing doors, depending on the requirements of your site.
If the location of the doorway is strictly defined, the structure is “tied” to it and adjusted so that the seams are not placed on the drywall pillars of the door (Fig. 1a).
If the position of the aperture is allowed to change, it can be “fixed” in plan, that is, where there are no joints (Fig.
1, b). It is better to arrange the opening so that there are two structural posts on both sides of the door molding. We can connect them to the door, which further strengthens the neck.
Attach door frames to the vertical part of the wall of the partition frame without installing additional reinforcements if the following conditions are met: the height of the barrier does not exceed 2600 mm; door leaf width - no more than 900 mm; The weight of the door leaf does not exceed 25 kg.
The thickness of the partition with the door in this case will be equipped with a reliable mounting cabinet and guide profiles, which, in turn, must be fixed with covering inserts in an area no more than 100 mm from the opening.
Above the door, a gear profile secures the rod, which increases the rigidity of the entire door frame structure. 1-2 intermediate points should be installed between the crossbar and the upper conductor.
There are three ways to cross the door.
Method 1. In the PN profile section, which is equal to the length of the door width plus 60 mm, the scissors make cuts 30 mm deep.
Then the profile is bent at an angle of 90 ° (Fig. 2, a).
How to make a door in a wall
The training part is fixed with a self-tapping screw on the PS door profile profiles (Fig. 2, b). The sides of the tape are fastened on the shelves and in the folded backrest.
Method 2.
On the shelves, make the scissors at a 45° angle and bend your back. In fig. 2, c shows a pillar on a door with a roof, the shelves are cut at 45° and bent back at an angle of 90°. The rod is attached to the stand at four points - two on the curved part and two on the bridge itself. This means only eight jumpers per jumper.
Method 3. The bridge over the door frame is made from the length of the PN profile guide along the length of the door width plus about 200 mm.
Taking into account the width of the hole on the profile, scissors cut the flanges on the back and bend the end at an angle of 90° (Fig. 2d). Secure the prepared jumper with bolts through the curved rear part (Fig. 2, d). For improvement, insert Mo-cross-section into the corners of the wooden rods and fix them on both sides with screws instead of the wrinkle profile (Fig. 3a).
This will ensure the reliability of the model. Inserting rods into corners is a skill of Russian craftsmen; such information is not available in the technical instructions of drywall manufacturers.
If one of the above conditions exceeds the norm, the frame frame that forms the hole should be strengthened. Rigips and the German company Knauf (from the point of view of the main company in Germany) recommend the use of reinforced UA profiles with a thickness of 2 mm.
Their width corresponds to standard CW / UW wall profiles - 50.75 and 100 mm. UA profiles are attached to the floor and ceiling using connecting corners.
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2. Manufacturing and fastening of cross wires on the door:
a — production of the transverse side (the back plate is cut and bent at an angle of 90 °); b - rods with side walls (the backs are cut and bent at an angle of 90 °) inside the partition; V - opening of an entrance door with a corner corner and a door with a side wall (flange cut at an angle of 45 °, backrest bent at an angle of 90 °): 1 - SS profile, 2 - PN profile 3 - crossbar 4 - LN9 screw, 5 - insertion angle for the lower door frame, 6 - corner corner for the upper door frame; g - cross section with side wall (rotation angle 90°, curved back at 90°): 1 - front, 2 - door, 3 - screw LN9; d - Door frame door with angled corners and sides (post at 90°, back bent at 90°): 1 - bottom of rail 2 - top track 3 - front door frame, 4 - door insert bottom edge, 5 - insert corner for the upper part of the door, b - rod.
The corners are attached to the floor and ceiling using dowels and connected to the reinforced profile using an M8 pin with washer and nut.
In practice, this multiplication is carried out either by pressing on the post of the wooden beam, followed by the mounting screws (see Fig. 3a, b), or by installing an additional profile (Fig. 3c).
The maximum weight of the door leaf depends on the selected profile. According to German and Austrian standards, in the CW50 profile you can adjust the weight of the door leaf to 30 kg, within the CW75 profile it weighs 40 kg, and the CW100 frame profile weighs 49 kg.
When using a reinforced UA profile (2 mm thick), the weight of the door leaf for wall mounting increases to UA50 profile - 50 kg, for UA75 profile - 75 kg, for UA100 profile - 100 kg.
Window openings and niches on partitions are reinforced with gaskets in accordance with the same principle as the door.
Making a door in the frame area near the wall on which the barrier is different is no different from above. Mark floor-to-ceiling tracks on the track that will be attached to the base wall. Then add the length of the shorter part of the baffle on each side and cover the excess with sharp scissors.
At the floor and ceiling lines, the profile slats are cut into the back, and the corner corners are lightly cut in these places so that they do not interfere with bending. The ends of the profile are made in accordance with the markings at an angle of 90 °. Align the leading profile with nails with the guide and the level of the structure (Fig. 4).
Sometimes there is a need to reconstruct a building. Reconstruction operations also include making openings in the walls. You will learn how to make an opening in a wall so that it does not become less strong, however, it should be noted that the advice will concern only the technology of the process, and no recommendations on designing redevelopment and coordinating changes in the structure of the building with the relevant authorities will be given. It must also be said that excessive self-confidence when reconstructing walls can lead to very sad consequences. If dismantling part of a non-load-bearing partition only threatens its collapse, then incorrect reconstruction of the load-bearing wall can lead to the destruction of the building.
An opening in the wall can be made with the approval of the BTI, in order to be sure that you will not collapse the load-bearing wall.
The materials that will strengthen the wall above the place where it is dismantled are profile steel products:
- channels;
- I-beams;
- corners.
The thicker the wall, the more powerful the profile should be used to support the overlying structures. When choosing a lintel, the height of the wall whose load it will bear must also be taken into account. It should be said that the construction of both the doorway and the window is carried out in the same way. Its width is of decisive importance (the larger it is, the weaker the structure). True, the window opening (if it is less than 1.5 m) is often reinforced only with a lintel, but for a door opening it is also necessary to strengthen the vertical sections, since they will be subject to frequent mechanical stress.
Opening in the interior partition
Dismantling a concrete partition
An opening in a concrete wall is made using a hammer drill and a sledgehammer.
Setting up a doorway in a wall that is not load-bearing is relatively simple. These partitions, as a rule, are not very thick. Brick walls can be folded into half a brick. How to make a doorway in them will be written below, but for now we need to talk about the reconstruction of concrete partitions. You will need:
- a grinder with a diamond wheel, a hammer drill or a jackhammer (it would be great if you could find a diamond cutter for concrete);
- channels or corners;
- marking tool;
- welding machine;
- sledgehammer.
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You also need to think about where the concrete fragments will fall. If you plan to cut it down in one large piece, then you simply need to place a shock-absorbing coating under the fall site. Car tires can also act as it.
Reinforcing an opening in a concrete wall.
First of all, make sure that there is no electrical wiring connected to the wall. After de-energizing the area, draw the contours of the future opening on the surface. After this, you can divide the area inside the outlined perimeter into several square sections. You can disassemble a wall by cutting or drilling its surface along the marked lines. Some fragments will be easily knocked out with a sledgehammer, while on others you will have to cut off the reinforcement. In any case, you need to be prepared for long-term work. The beauty of constructing a doorway in a concrete partition is that it can be cut without first installing a lintel, since the concrete panel is a monolith. After disassembling the opening, you can begin to strengthen it. Depending on the thickness of the partition, select a channel or corners that frame the top crossbar and the verticals of the opening.
Dismantling brickwork
Options for strengthening a brick wall.
Disassembling a brick wall will not be as easy. No, the masonry itself is easy to disassemble, but there will be no consequences if you pull out 1-2 bricks from the masonry, but before dismantling the entire section, you need to install a lintel that will take the weight of the wall. As already mentioned, the thickness of the partition can be only 12 cm. It is impossible to punch a long through hole for the lintel over the future opening, as this threatens the destruction of the masonry.
To prevent this from happening, grooves must be made on both sides of the wall above the ceiling of the opening, the depth of which should correspond to the width of the corner (60 x 60). Their length must exceed the width of the opening by at least 1 brick. It is not enough to insert both corners into the resulting grooves. It is necessary to fix them. To do this, holes are drilled in the profiles and the wall for the studs or bolts with which they will be tightened. After disassembling the brick, steel strips are welded between the corners, and the fasteners can be removed. The verticals of the wall are also reinforced with channels or corners, which are welded with the lintel into a single structure.
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How to mark an opening
Installing a lintel in a load-bearing wall.
Of course, you noticed that work on constructing a doorway is often carried out on both sides of the partition. In this case, the marking is applied on both sides. You can ensure its accuracy in a simple way.
- The contours of the opening are drawn on one of the surfaces.
- Using a drill with a cross-section of 12 mm, through holes are drilled in its corners.
- The corresponding lines are drawn on the reverse side.
For thin concrete walls, this marking method is not so relevant, since in most cases they can be disassembled in a “one-sided” mode. This method is necessary when dismantling brick partitions, as well as main walls. Just how to make a doorway in the latter will be written below.
Openings in load-bearing walls
To strengthen the opening, channels are used, the thickness of which depends on the thickness and height of the wall
Load-bearing brick walls are usually much thicker than concrete ones. To strengthen the opening they use:
- channels 10P and 10U, 12P and 12U, 14P and 14U (depending on the thickness and height of the walls);
- studs and bolts from M16 to M24 with washers and nuts.
First, the old coating is removed from the wall before the masonry. Markings are applied to it. Several through holes are drilled at the corners of the drawn rectangle and at some other points along the lines. On the reverse side, the trim is also removed and the contours of the opening are drawn.
Now, above its horizontal line on one side, you need to punch a groove with a length and depth corresponding to the dimensions of the channel or I-beam (and the length of the lintel must exceed the width of the opening by at least 50 cm). Before installing the profiles, you need to drill holes for the studs. The channels should be tightened with them every 50 cm, but in any case there should not be less than 3 of them above the opening.
Doorway in a brick wall 
Doorway in a concrete wall 
Expanding the opening in the wall 
