How a monolithic staircase is made from the outside. DIY concrete staircase. Installing railings on a concrete porch

How a monolithic staircase is made from the outside.  DIY concrete staircase.  Installing railings on a concrete porch
How a monolithic staircase is made from the outside. DIY concrete staircase. Installing railings on a concrete porch

In private housing construction, a concrete staircase becomes the main type of access to front door with a high base, on the upper floors. Compliance with design and manufacturing requirements will ensure safety in use, strength and durability of the structure.

Monolithic concrete stairs have considerable weight. Ceilings and walls bear additional load on the staircase structural elements until the concrete polymerizes. As a result, the concrete staircase turns into one of the structural rigidity elements of the building. An ascent angle steeper than 45 0 is impractical. 30 0 is accepted as optimal. If the climb is too steep, it will be difficult, and descending the stairs will become dangerous.

Requirements for the size of steps and treads:

  • Depth – 27–30 cm;
  • Height – 15–20 cm;
  • Width – 1–1.2 m.

The staircase elements are monolithic with the floors and the adjacent wall during the construction process. Release of reinforcement and embedded elements from floors and load-bearing wall planned at the project stage. Street stairs bottom rest on the foundation.

For a two-flight staircase, you will have to build an intermediate platform with stationary intermediate supports.

Monolithic connections will strengthen the structure of the house

Formwork assembly and reinforcement

The next step in construction is the construction of formwork. Concrete stairs require a strong frame for pouring. The base is made of moisture-resistant plywood with reinforcement at the bottom with boards to prevent the formwork from deflecting.

Vertical supports are installed with support on shoes to prevent shifting. The racks are made from boards 50–60 mm thick coniferous species. On the wall side, the base rests on metal brackets. The side board is attached to reinforced corners to provide rigidity to the structure.

Before pouring concrete, care should be taken to eliminate leaks of cement laitance and adhesion of the concrete mixture to the formwork. The joints and cracks of the joints are sealed with sealant. The surface of the formwork is treated with compounds that prevent sticking.

As one of the means, the formwork is covered with polyethylene film with tension. This will lead to a reduction in the subsequent finishing of the stairs. Reducing the cost and reducing the amount of finishing work is laid down at the stage of preparatory work.

When pouring concrete, concrete stairs do not experience serious dynamic loads. Therefore, it is advisable to assemble the formwork using self-tapping screws. The screed will leave fewer gaps between the parts; after dismantling, the structural elements can be reused.

The basis for the strength of a concrete staircase is at least a double reinforcement mesh. Steel period and fiberglass ø 12–14 mm are used. Grid pitch 100–200 mm. The lattice is fastened with binding wire or pulled together plastic clamps. Vertical bars at the edges will replace the upturned ends of the excess length crossbars. A distance between the gratings of 5–10 cm will provide sufficient bending resistance.

A clear example of reinforcement and hardening

Plastic supports under the lower part of the lattice hold the structure above the formwork. Holes are drilled in the wall into which crossbars are inserted to prevent the reinforced frame from shifting. The ends of the formwork reinforcement are not allowed to touch.

The reinforcement of each flight of stairs is carried out separately, but before pouring, the parts of the metal frame are tied together by overlapping and adding rods. The frame is connected with special care to the reinforcement outlets from the floor slabs.

The assembly of the monolithic staircase formwork is completed by installing at the level of dividing risers, which determine the depth of the step. Fastening to the wall and board is carried out with reinforced corners or vertical bars.

We are waiting for concrete

Difficulties with concrete

We refuse to buy ready-made ones. We purchase granite crushed stone fractions 15–30 mm. If it is not planned to finish the staircase with other materials, marble chips are added. Large is required river sand. Quarry is not suitable - clay inclusions will reduce the strength. Cement grade 400 will do.

Mixing proportion:

  • Cement – ​​1;
  • Sand – 1.3;
  • Crushed stone – 2.6.

The monolithic staircase will be reinforced with polypropylene fiber in the concrete mixture. The fibers are evenly distributed in the solution. Concrete acquires remarkable qualities:

  • No shrinkage is felt;
  • Internal stresses are smoothed out;
  • Strengthening the product;

Adding plasticizers will speed up the setting of concrete. The concrete staircase formwork is filled from below in 2-3 steps with a gradual rise upward. Preliminary compaction of the mass is carried out by bayoneting.

Tamping does not give the same result that we can achieve using an electric vibrator. Vibration results in an even distribution of gravel filling. Air bubbles in the thickness of the concrete and shells in areas adjacent to the formwork will disappear. Manual compaction will reduce the strength of the product by 10–12%

Vibration causes the mass to slide along the concrete stairs. The steps are filled without pouring cement laitance under the edge of the riser formwork. Filling the cavity signals the transition to the next level. Avoid underfilling the formwork.

Filling proceeds without stopping, regardless of the amount of work. A delay of 2 hours will lead to layering of the monolith. The planned strength is lost. The joint is comparable to a crack running the entire depth of the stairs. The embedded elements for fastening the balusters are installed into the filled steps according to the template.

After 1–1.5 hours, as the concrete sets, the steps of the stairs are smoothed with a float or trowel. It is recommended to trim the mass along the formwork and blunt the right angles to avoid chipping.

Bringing beauty

Decoration and finishing

The concrete staircase was built with my own hands. We waited until the ladder under the shelter gained the necessary strength. There is room for imagination. Ceramic tile, natural wood and imitations, carpet - available materials finishing is not with honor.

What if you surprise yourself and your family with the beauty of concrete? There will be more work, but the rough concrete staircase will turn into a work of art. Want to try? We'll have to go back to kneading and pouring. Adding pigments to a concrete mixer will turn the gray mass into a colored one.

Buying white or light cement will allow you to diversify your palette in addition to rich colors pastel colors. The steps will turn from faceless attacks into decoration. But the work of polishing the steps of the concrete stairs will be added.

Imprinted into the unhardened top layer of treads are fragments of multi-colored glass, flat pebbles, even shavings after metalworking with ordered pretentious ornaments or the chaos of inconsistency in the arrangement of waste decorative elements will hit.

Self-deception or desire for traditionalism?

Below is an example of how a staircase made of ordinary ready-mixed concrete without finishing already attracts attention. Enterprises willingly accept orders for production concrete products. You hand over a sketch on a piece of paper, and you get an improved version of the idea.

The developer's gain is obvious:

  • No cracks or internal stresses in the product after the steaming chamber;
  • Reduced labor intensity - installation and embedding take several hours;
  • Time saving - no need to wait for concrete to polymerize;
  • No chipping guarantee;
  • Does not require processing.

It is uneconomical to do this with your own hands.

Concrete stairs without wet processes

And this is possible. In a home where there is mostly wood around, moisture evaporation is the enemy. We order the frame modular or welded. And we cast the steps in a multi-seat mold ourselves in the garage or at the dacha.

The only peculiarity of such an amateur activity is that the front side will be at the bottom. Patterns and ornaments will appear upside down. But there will be no restrictions on imagination in any form.

The photo below shows a composition on a concrete surface made of broken bottle glass. The waste was poured into the mold, leveled and filled with cement mixture. The small chintz pattern is colorful and it wouldn’t hurt to dilute it with several solid bottle bottoms for a logical completion of the composition.

The industry cannot do this, only a craftsman

The thickness of homemade and purchased tread after processing does not exceed 50 mm. The weight is small, so the frame can be lightened. There is no need to prepare a powerful one. Installation does not require the use of lifting devices and powerful fasteners.

Lightweight format for lifting into the attic

Brief summary

Street and interfloor concrete stairs are similar in manufacturing technology. There would be a desire free time the required amount of money. Design features screw and curved were not considered due to the fact that each configuration needs to be devoted to a separate article, and not several general words.

Video

Stair frame

Concrete staircase (rough = two flights + platform) with formwork made from forest residues.

Buildings of two floors and above cannot do without flights of stairs. Various materials are used to create such structures. One of the most popular materials is concrete. Cast staircases made from it are erected both inside and outside buildings; they have many structural alternatives that satisfy the highest requirements and refined aesthetic tastes.

Advantages of monolithic stairs

Staircases cast from concrete have been in use for decades. They have the highest strength and bearing capacity, fire resistant and do not burn. Such staircases further strengthen the structural frame of buildings. The use of monolithic stairs inside and outside buildings is predetermined by their frost resistance and moisture resistance. The load-bearing reinforcement frame is reliably protected from corrosion.

The concrete base remains monolithic under the influence of external environment. Any defects that arise can simply be filled with new solution. Interfloor transitions are created on objects under construction, without requiring the involvement of expensive materials, cranes

After removing the formwork, the stairs are available for silent movement of building materials. Any variants of such products stand without supports, which allows rational use of the space under them. Similar designs have no restrictions on the implementation of engineering ideas and decoration.

Kinds

The designs of staircases vary depending on the method of formation and location.

By manufacturing method

Monolithic stairs from artificial stone are divided into marching and spiral.

Screw

This interfloor transition configuration is created inside and outside buildings. This is a complex design to implement, the creation of which is relevant due to the need rational use living space. It takes up little space and does not require the installation of a central support pillar. The ladder is installed with support on the walls and away from them.

The formation of such a monolithic staircase is complicated by the need to create shaped formwork with smooth contours, planes and curved surfaces, the difficulty of strengthening an autonomous rigid reinforcement frame, as well as the use of many temporary support elements.

Marching


Marching monolithic staircase.

Used more often than the spiral design. Easier to create, more secure, but takes up a lot of space. Such interfloor transitions are divided into single-flight straight or corner (with winder steps), two-flight (straight or corner, connected through a platform). There may be more marches. Single-flight structures resting on the side walls are the easiest to implement - the formwork and its reinforcement are attached to the wall base.

This option can rest on one side of the wall or only on the load-bearing base and ceiling of the next floor. The latter will require a lot of supports when constructing the formwork. In some cases, two-flight crossings are created, articulated at a selected angle by a platform. As a rule, they are placed with support on the wall (walls) on one side.

By installation type

Based on the type of installation (installation location), monolithic concrete interfloor connections are divided into internal and external.

Outdoor

Marching products can be cast on a prepared base (compacted soil, sand, etc.) or “hang” in the air with support on two “points”. Screw - mounted with support on the facade or only on top floor.

Internal

A monolithic staircase installed inside a structure can have any implementation option. At the same time, in contrast to external placement, there are opportunities to redistribute the load of the march from the foundation to the walls.

Technology

Work on the construction of a staircase made of monolithic concrete consists of the following stages: selection of an acceptable type of staircase, design, assembly of formwork, installation of reinforcing steel, and decoration.

Choosing the type of staircase


A spiral staircase is good to install if there is little space.

What type of staircase it should be is clear already when designing a building, which is determined by its location. However, there is room for clarification when the skeleton of the building is already ready. If there is not enough living space, you should consider installing a spiral structure in the middle of the room or supported on a wall (walls in the corner). This option will complicate the creation of formwork and the formation of a reliable reinforcement frame.

A marching passage supported by walls on both sides is as light as possible for the foundation. Supporting the march on the wall on one side will increase the load on it. But the most massive option is a marching interfloor connection, resting only on the floor and foundation (reinforced concrete beam).

In the last two cases, you will also need to carefully support the formwork. There will also be nuances when choosing a two-flight (corner, arched) or staircase with winder steps. Not least of all will be considerations regarding compliance with the overall design of the premises and their purpose.

Calculation of elements

On at this stage the inclination of the product, the number of flights, the dimensions of the platforms, the number of steps and their parameters, the turning angles are determined winder steps, the width of the stairs, the heights of the screeds and future finishing are taken into account. Calculations affect the ease of use of the structure, material consumption, cost and duration of work. A drawing is then created showing all the dimensions.

Climbing angle

The sector within the range of 25 - 37 degrees is considered optimal in terms of space occupied and safe. It determines the length of the stairs. The shallower the angle, the longer it is. So, for example, with an interfloor height of 3 m, a march with a slope of 35 degrees will create a projection of the span onto the floor with a length of 430 cm, and at 25 degrees, the structure in concrete will occupy 640 cm of the room. Thus, the product will take more space and it will require more materials.

Step sizes


Installation diagram of a monolithic staircase.

Convenient parameters for moving people - height 17 – 21 cm (a), depth 27 – 31 cm (b). The dimensions of the steps must be the same. Next, the length of the designed structure is divided by the size of one step so that, by selection, a whole number of steps is obtained (taking into account the equality 2 a b = 60 - 64 cm). For every 12 to 15 steps of the march, it is advisable to provide one platform 1.5 steps long.

Stair width

The parameters of the room can set existing restrictions on the width, but values ​​of 90 – 150 cm are considered optimal. These dimensions allow furniture to be moved and people to move comfortably.

Not a single residential or industrial use unthinkable without this structural element like a staircase. A series of steps serves as a communication point between rooms located at different levels. She experiences considerable stress every day. Therefore, increased demands are placed on it in terms of comfort, reliability and safety. This article will talk about how to make a concrete staircase with your own hands.

Reinforced monolithic concrete stairs

  • Stair structures can be rectangular shape, rotary and spiral. But regardless of the type, the concrete architectural element has the following advantages.
  • Resistance to moisture, temperature fluctuations and aggressive environments. Therefore, such structures are erected both indoors and outdoors.
  • High strength is achieved by reinforcing the concrete mixture. The steps can withstand very impressive loads, which makes them incredibly reliable and practically durable.

Monolithic concrete stairs photo

  • Concrete stairs provide ample opportunities concerning decorative finishing. Here you can use porcelain stoneware and ceramic tiles, wooden planks (parquet, laminate) and other materials.
  • The steps do not require special care or regular impregnation. If a defect occurs on the surface, it is enough to re-fill the area to be restored with concrete.
  • Construction of the structure is underway on our own without the use of special or expensive building materials, as well as without the involvement of special equipment and specialists.
  • Filled steps are ready for use within 7-10 days. This allows you to use them at all stages of construction, carry tools, materials, etc.
  • Since the staircase is erected simultaneously with the construction of the house, in addition to its direct purpose, it plays another role - constructive.
  • Among the disadvantages are its impressive weight, massiveness (takes up a lot of space) and solidity - the staircase cannot be dismantled, rearranged or modified.

Concrete grade for staircase structures

  • To make concrete stairs, ready-made mortar M200 class B15 or M250 class B20 is usually used. This material is based on fine crushed stone, with the addition of binders, modified additives and other fillers.
  • When choosing concrete for the construction of external stairs, it is important to pay attention to the frost resistance (F) and water resistance (W) indicators.

For kneading concrete mortar Brand 250 uses the following proportions on its own:

  • 1 part concrete M400;
  • 2 parts washed sand;
  • 4 parts of crushed stone fraction 10x20 mm;
  • about ½ part water;
  • 0.7% by weight of cement plasticizing additive C-3.

Mixing the mortar the old fashioned way, using a pallet and a shovel, is incredibly difficult, especially since the steps must be filled in one go. Therefore, it is recommended to borrow a compact concrete mixer from your neighbors or rent it from construction crews.

First, sand and crushed stone are poured into the device, bulk materials stir for at least 2-3 minutes. Then a plasticizer (in dry or concentrated form) and water are added. All components are mixed for at least 5 minutes.

Important! Poor mixing of all components reduces the final strength of concrete by 20%.

How to make a concrete staircase with your own hands

Staircase design

  • If work on the construction of a staircase is carried out independently (without the involvement of specialists), then the project on paper is drawn up on its own. The plan calculates the dimensions of the room, the slope of the structure, its length and width, and also takes into account the presence doorways, method and direction of door opening.
  • The construction of a concrete staircase requires special attention angle of inclination. The optimal value of this parameter is in the range of 26-37º. A staircase that is too steep can be life-threatening, while a staircase that is shallower can take a lot of time. usable area, and it is not particularly comfortable when ascending/descending.

  • When developing a project, you must act consistently. First, the number of steps is calculated, then their length, width, angle of rotation, platform parameters, etc. Only when the right approach we can talk about the safety and convenience of the design.

Calculation of stage parameters

  • In addition to strength characteristics, such a design must meet operational characteristics. The selected parameters should be as comfortable as possible when ascending or descending while maintaining evenness of step.
  • As for the width, it can vary from 0.9 to 1.5 meters. Undoubtedly, the wider the staircase, the more convenient it is, but the area of ​​the room does not always allow the construction of structures of the preferred size. Therefore, when designing, we take into account not only comfort, but also free squaring.

There are average indicators of stages that determine ease of use:

  • height 190-220 mm;
  • width 250-330 mm.

  • To correctly calculate the parameters, use simple formula 2a+b=640, where: a - step height; b - step width; 640 mm is the average length of a human step.
  • Substituting the average data, we get: 2x190+280=660. As you can see from the example, the selected dimensions fully correspond to comfortable performance characteristics.
  • Using the Pythagorean theorem, we calculate the length of the march. Here it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the decorative flooring. The result obtained is divided by the height of one step. For example: 3000/190=15.8, which means there are 16 steps for a 3-meter long flight.
  • If during the calculations the tenth part is small (for example, it turned out to be 14.3 or 16.4), then it is recommended to take only the whole number as a basis, and distribute the remainder evenly over the height of all steps (the damage to the comfort of ascent and descent will be insignificant).

Important! When calculating, you should take into account the height of the tallest family member. So that when he gets up on the second step he doesn’t hit his head on the ceiling. Here it is necessary to add 400 mm to a person’s height (the average height of two steps without finishing material!)

Formwork for pouring concrete stairs

  • Formwork assembly is one of the key points construction. To concrete surface turned out to be as smooth as possible, use moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of at least 20 mm. For the side walls of steps and the formation of risers, edged boards with a thickness of 30-35 mm are used.

  • For the bottom surface, take a solid slab. Its installation at the desired angle is carried out using vertical bars or special telescopic stands, which can be rented from construction crews without any problems.
  • Since the mass of the concrete mixture is quite large, it makes sense to use metal corners and bars. It is recommended to attach additional reinforcing elements to the bottom of the formwork every 50-80 cm.
  • Next, steps are formed using edged boards. When installing, take as a basis inner dimensions, that is, when fixed, the external parameters of each step will be 30-35 mm (exactly the width of the lumber used) greater than the design indicators.
  • Wooden elements must fit tightly to each other, the formation of gaps and cracks is not allowed. To prevent the solution from being absorbed into the lumber, it is generously moistened or the walls are protected before pouring. plastic film, as well as any waterproofing material.

Important! When assembling the structure, self-tapping screws are used. Their location should be only external, so that when dismantling the formwork there are no difficulties that could lead to partial destruction of the concrete surface.

Technology for reinforcing concrete stairs

  • To give strength to the staircase structure and prevent the edges of the steps from crumbling, reinforcement is carried out. For the work you will need steel reinforcement with a diameter of 8 and 14 mm, knitting wire, as well as a tool for bending and cutting rods, pliers.
  • Thicker steel rods are used for longitudinal reinforcement, and smaller diameter rods for transverse reinforcement. At a distance of at least 30 mm from the bottom of the formwork, 14 mm reinforcement is laid out in increments of 150-200 mm. To do this, it is enough to place broken pieces of brick or ceramic tiles under it.

  • Transverse rods are also laid out at a distance of 150-200 mm from each other. Fixation of the reinforcement in the form of a mesh is ensured by means of a knitting wire, fastened and tightened with pliers.
  • For reliability, you can lay out the second row of the finished mesh with 150x150mm cells from 4 mm reinforcement. This layer should be positioned in such a way that the concrete layer covers the metal by 30-40 mm. To ensure such parameters, original chairs are prepared from metal rods.
  • If the structure will rest on three sides (top, bottom and side), then reinforcement is laid in advance during the construction of the walls. As a result, the most durable fixation of the staircase from the side is ensured.

How to properly pour concrete stairs

  • The concrete solution begins to be poured from the bottom step. The frame is filled in small portions. After filling, tamping is performed with an electric vibrator. This tool will help get rid of air voids that adversely affect the strength characteristics of the finished structure.
  • In addition to the vibrator, you can gently tap with a hammer on all sides of the formwork. As a rule, the mixture will settle 2-3 cm from required level, the deficiency is compensated by a new portion of concrete mixture. Next, the tamping process is repeated.

  • If the solution no longer settles, then the surface is finally leveled with a trowel or rule. Between concreting each step, a break of 10-15 minutes should be maintained, during which time the pressure of the solution drops slightly.
  • To move upward, you can lean a standard wooden ladder on the frame or use ordinary boards. After completion of the work, the concrete is covered with plastic film, which prevents it from drying out prematurely.

Important! During the first 2-3 days, the polyethylene is periodically removed, and the concrete surface is wetted by spraying; a direct stream of water should be avoided.

  • The frame is dismantled after 3-4 weeks, during this period concrete mixture will gain at least 80-90% strength.
  • The undoubted advantage of concrete surfaces is their absolute maintainability. Therefore, if any defects are found after drying, they can easily be corrected by partial “patches” or re-filling. However, in order to avoid financial and time costs, it is better to do it once according to all the rules, putting in more effort and effort.

Decoration Materials

  • Leave concrete stairs without further finishing is not recommended. After some time, the edges of the steps will begin to crumble. Yes and appearance the stairs leave much to be desired, although many modern styles welcome concrete structures in their original form.
  • Depending on the style direction, the steps are lined with porcelain stoneware, ceramic mosaic, wooden planks. Side walls and the bottom surface of the stairs is usually plastered and then painted.

Monolithic concrete stairs are the strongest and most durable. Therefore, it is most often present in capital concrete or brick houses with several floors. The lifespan is like this concrete structure Without repair, it can last for decades. Timely repairs can make it almost eternal. At the same time, despite its monumentality, making a concrete staircase yourself is not at all difficult. Let's consider all the steps that need to be taken to build a monolithic concrete staircase, step by step.

If you want to understand in more detail, then read on.

Stage #1. Choosing the type of staircase

First you need to choose the shape and type of staircase design. By design, all monolithic concrete stairs can be divided into straight (single-flight and double-flight) and spiral (spiral).

The simplest option is a straight single-flight staircase inscribed between two walls. In this case, the end parts of the stairs, as such, are absent and the formwork elements are attached directly to the walls.

It is more difficult to build a staircase supported by only one wall. To form the free end of such a staircase, one side part is added to the formwork structure.

Exist marching stairs without supports on the walls, that is, they rest only on two points - the upper and lower ceilings. To build such a staircase, it is necessary to assemble formwork with two side parts.

Despite the simplicity of the device, it is not always possible to build a single-flight staircase of the required height in an ordinary house. Or rather, there is not enough space to install it. Then they build a two-flight staircase, the flights of which are located among themselves at the required angle (traditionally 90°). Such designs come with inter-flight platforms or winder steps.

However, the most decorative (but also difficult to implement!) among monolithic staircases are spiral structures. The difficulty lies in the manufacture of formwork irregular shape, which can form a curved staircase. For such formwork, many custom-made curved and bent panels are used. Also labor-intensive is knitting an irregularly shaped frame.

Spiral staircases can rest on one wall or be located at a distance from the walls, that is, have two side faces of their own.

Thus, for home handyman who does not want to use the services of professionals, it is better to prefer a straight single-flight staircase for construction.

Stage #2. Design calculation

Before starting construction of the staircase, it is necessary to carry out a preliminary calculation of all its elements. And develop a drawing indicating the dimensions of the structure, the number of steps, their width and height.

Climbing angle

The first important characteristic is the angle of ascent (inclination), which determines the height and length of the stairs. Given the same height, a staircase with a rise angle of 25° will always be longer than a staircase with an angle of 35° or 45°. For example, a staircase with an angle of 25° and a height of 3 m forms a projection of a span equal to 6.4 m. A staircase of the same height with an angle of 35° - a projection of a span of 4.3 m. A staircase with an angle of 45° - a projection of a span of 3 m.

In other words, to build a staircase with a span angle of 25°, it is necessary to spend 2.35 times more materials than to build a staircase with an angle of 45° (with the same height of both structures).

Step sizes

Having chosen the height and angle of inclination of the stairs, you need to break the structure into steps. Optimal dimensions: step height – 16-20 cm, width – 27-30 cm.

If you make steps higher than 22 cm, then it will be difficult to climb them, especially for older people. People accustomed to the traditional step of steps will stumble and fail to reach the next step when climbing. There is a risk of falling while descending. Too low steps (below 15-14 cm) are also inconvenient. An adult will “mince” along them. Although they are safer for older people. They are also suitable for children.

As for the width of the steps, it is unreasonable to make them less than 25 cm. The foot will slip when stepping onto the tread. A step width greater than 31-32 cm will force a person to lengthen his step in order to get to the next step.

When choosing the size of a step, you can use the formula: 2H + L = 60-64 cm. In this case, H is the height of the step (riser), L is the width of the step (tread). For example, the above figures for optimal sizes fit perfectly into the calculations: 2 x 16 cm + 30 cm = 62 cm.

Stair width

The width of the staircase usually depends either on the distance between the walls where it needs to be fitted, or on the availability of free space. It is undesirable to choose a width of less than 80 cm. This is too narrow a staircase; going up (or down) it will feel like walking through a tunnel. In addition, it is inconvenient (or impossible) to carry furniture along such stairs. The optimal width is more than 0.9 m.

The calculations of the staircase design are described in detail in the video:

Stage #3. Formwork assembly

After all the calculations, it’s time to create the future outlines of the stairs. That is, to build formwork into which concrete will be poured in the future.

Assembling the formwork is the most difficult stage in the construction of a staircase. It requires scrupulous, careful work with precise alignment of all pre-calculated dimensions of the structure. Any mistake at this stage can lead to failure of everything. construction project(the shape of the structure, its dimensions will be disrupted, and the surface will be inconvenient for subsequent finishing).

To build the formwork you will need:

  • waterproof plywood (thickness 12-18 mm) or edged board (thickness at least 30 mm) - for the lower part of the formwork (bottom), edging and risers;
  • waterproof plywood (thickness 6.5-9 mm) - for curved sections (if necessary);
  • boards (thickness 50 mm, width 150-170 mm) or support bars 100x100 mm - for supports;
  • bars 100x100 mm - for connecting sheets of plywood or boards to each other;
  • metal corners, wood screws (3.5 mm) - for fastening.

Wooden formwork elements in contact with concrete must be absolutely smooth. Then the concrete surface after hardening will be smooth, practically not requiring finishing. Therefore, the sides of the boards that are planned to be placed with inside formwork must be pre-sanded. If smooth plywood is used, then no preliminary leveling actions are necessary.

The formwork is assembled as follows:

1. Place the lower part of the formwork, which will hold the entire mass of concrete. To do this, you can use dimensional sheets of plywood or boards. They are tightly fastened to each other using bars secured to the outside of the formwork (ready-made wooden panels can be used). From below, the lower part of the formwork is supported by boards or support bars. The pitch of the supports must coincide with the pitch of the steps.

Fastening the formwork elements is usually done using self-tapping screws rather than nails. The fact is that after the concrete hardens, the formwork will have to be removed, which is easy to do by unscrewing the screws. It is more difficult to remove nails, so they try not to use them for formwork.

2. The side edges of the stairs are limited by edging - plywood or edged boards. The edging is also reinforced with boards (bars) from the outside, since by itself it will not be able to withstand the pressure of concrete. The boards are securely fastened to the flange, especially if they were set at an angle. At this stage, the structure is usually reinforced (see stage #4).

3. Install the boards (plywood) of the risers, securing them to the flange (or to the wall) using metal corners.

4. All joints of formwork elements (plywood, boards) are sealed cement-sand mortar or level with an angle grinder or plane. Such alignment of the formwork walls will allow you to obtain a smooth, even surface of the concrete staircase at the end of the work. This will make it easier further work finishers, that is, plastering and performing grinding work on an already finished concrete structure it will be possible to do a minimum.

Stage #4. Knitting and installation of reinforcing mesh or frame

If the staircase is small, then for reinforcement you can use a mesh knitted from reinforcement with a diameter of 10-12 mm. The reinforcing bars are placed in increments of 15 and 20 cm to form a mesh with a cell of 15 x 20 cm. The bars are tied together using wire.

For a large staircase, a reinforcement cage is used. It consists of two or more meshes connected to each other vertical rods. Leave a distance of 2-3 cm between the meshes.

The reinforcement frame (mesh) is a kind of “skeleton” of the structure; it will hold the frozen concrete mass. Therefore, the horizontal frame rods (mesh) are fixed in the wall for reliable connection with the future concrete staircase. To do this, holes of the required diameter are drilled in the wall and pins are driven in with a hammer.

The frame or mesh is laid on the lower part of the formwork at a distance of 2-3 cm from the bottom. To raise the reinforcement, you can use stones, bricks or special plastic supports.

Stage #5. Pouring concrete

For the stairs, use concrete of a grade no lower than M200 (class no lower than B15). It is either mixed independently using a concrete mixer, or ordered from RBU.

Very important rule: concrete for stairs must contain crushed stone of at least 10-20 mm in size. Large crushed stone will help hold the concrete in the space of the steps. A finer aggregate, on the contrary, will make the concrete mobile and viscous, which will lead to it flowing out of the formwork of the steps.

Filling is performed according to the following scheme:

1. Start pouring from the lower steps. First, the 2-3 lower steps are poured with concrete.

2. Compact the concrete. Tamping helps to increase the density and strength of the composition, as it removes air pockets from its thickness. Most easy way tamping: after pouring, the concrete is pierced with reinforcement in several places. However this method not very reliable. It should be remembered that 1% undercompaction heavy concrete leads to a decrease in its strength by 5-7%! Therefore, professionals prefer to compact concrete not with reinforcement, but with a special mechanism - a construction vibrator.

With any type of compaction, some of the concrete will be squeezed out through the formwork. The extruded concrete is transferred up or down (to where there is an insufficient amount of mixture).

3. The steps are given their final shape by smoothing them with a trowel (trowel).

4. All overlying steps are poured in the same way.

5. The poured concrete is covered with a film to prevent premature hardening and the formation of cracks. Instead of film, you can use another method: periodically moisten the concrete that has not yet hardened by sprinkling it with water.

Stage #6. Removing formwork

The formwork is removed carefully, in several stages. First, after a few days (5-7 days), when the concrete mass has hardened, remove the formwork from the steps and the flanging. You need to act carefully. If the concrete is still wet, under no circumstances should the formwork be removed. Otherwise, the surface of the stairs will be damaged (possibly cracking or chipping).

The steps and ends of the stairs, freed from formwork, are leveled using grinding machines. It is most convenient to use a regular grinder with a circle on concrete, which will make the surface of the stairs smooth and even.

Only after 21-28 days (depending on the weather and the rate of concrete hardening) can the retaining boards and the lower part of the formwork be removed. This is a very important moment. If the support is removed too early, there is a risk of collapse and destruction of the entire concrete structure.

After complete removal of the formwork, the Bottom part stairs.

Stage #7. Finishing

There are a lot of different finishing options for concrete stairs:

  • tile;
  • laminate;
  • tree;
  • porcelain stoneware;
  • acrylic stone;
  • carpet

However, according to technology, all these materials must be laid on a flat surface. After removing the formwork, minor irregularities may be observed on the concrete stairs (especially on the surface of the steps): bumps, holes, chips. Therefore, before you start laying on the stairs finishing coat, all its surfaces are sanded and plastered.

Finishing the end parts of the structure usually consists of plastering and painting. Next, the steps are finished with one of the above-mentioned floor materials.

In private houses between floors, the most popular stairs are made of wood or monolithic reinforced concrete. A comfortable and beautiful wooden staircase is an expensive pleasure. In a private house, it can be cheaper to build a simpler and more durable reinforced concrete staircase with your own hands.

Advantages and other features of a monolithic concrete staircase

Monolithic concrete stairs are quite heavy structures. Therefore, such stairs are made in houses with monolithic, prefabricated or.

Concrete stairs are constructed during the construction of the house frame. They can be used for their intended purpose immediately, until the construction of the house is completed.

Stairs made of concrete have high rigidity and strength, do not creak or vibrate.

Reinforced concrete stairs are safer due to their simple design and massive steps.

Finishing and lining of concrete stairs during repairs is easy to restore or replace.

It is difficult to make stairs of complex configuration or miniature ones from concrete.

Design options for concrete stairs in a private house

The design of a concrete staircase must be developed before the construction of a house begins, since it is necessary to provide embedded anchors made of reinforcing steel and other elements in the ceilings and masonry of walls for fastening flights of stairs and intermediate platforms.

In the ceiling or load-bearing beam they make releases of reinforcement that are connected to the reinforcement of the flight of stairs. A staircase made of monolithic reinforced concrete in a private house consists of flights of stairs and an intermediate landing between marches.

The flight of stairs is a reinforced concrete slab on which concrete steps are located.

Reinforcing frames of reinforced concrete floors, staircases and landings are connected together into a single structure. Thanks to working together reinforcement and monolithic concrete, the staircase has very high rigidity and strength.

Staircase with stringer made of monolithic reinforced concrete. The stringer is located along the longitudinal axis of the flight of stairs.

The stringer here is a reinforced concrete beam with projections to support the steps. Cantilever steps are those whose ends are not supported.

The steps of a staircase on a stringer can be made of wood or monolithic concrete. Wooden steps are attached to the stringer using metal inserts.


Formwork of a monolithic staircase on a stringer with concrete steps. The reinforcement frame of the cantilever steps made of concrete is connected to the reinforcement of the stringer.

Reinforced concrete stair stringers, as well as flights of stairs, can be installed either between interfloor ceilings, or between the ceiling and the intermediate landing.

Cantilever steps made of reinforced concrete are jammed in the masonry of the wall.

A staircase is called closed if the spaces between the steps are closed with risers. Without risers, this is an open staircase.

Concrete for reinforced concrete stairs

For the manufacture of reinforced concrete stairs, concrete is used that has a compressive strength of at least 20 MPa (class B20). Freshly laid concrete in the formwork must be thoroughly compacted by vibration.

There are flights of stairs and landings profitable to make from architectural (decorative) concrete. The surface of the steps and landings of such a staircase will not require additional cladding or finishing. It is better to order the production and laying of architectural concrete to specialists.

Where in the house to place a concrete staircase

In order for the staircase to be comfortable, safe and “quiet”, it is necessary to successfully choose its location in the house, correctly arrange it and determine its dimensions.

Modern architecture of a private house usually does not provide special isolated stairwells. Stairs are installed openly and are part of the interior of the living room, hall or hallway.

It must be taken into account that the staircase in the living room, as an element of the interior, places higher demands on appearance. The staircase in the living room should be more refined, and therefore more expensive, than the staircase in the hallway, hall or in an isolated staircase.

Compared to wooden ones, concrete stairs look heavier, they are simpler in shape and do not fit well into the interior of the living room.

A place near a wall is more suitable for placing a concrete staircase.

Concrete stairs that will highlight the interior of your home and will last long term, manufactured by the Concrete Boutique company!

How to choose staircase sizes

Selecting the slope of the stairs

A comfortable and safe staircase should be fairly flat. Building regulations limit the steepness of the stairs in the house. The slope of the stairs should not be more than 1:1.25 (the ratio of the height of the flight of stairs to its horizontal projection). In the figure below this staircase 1 has a maximum slope of about 40°.


Two staircase options: staircase 1- steep with an extreme slope, provides a minimum of comfort and safety, but occupies a minimum area in the house; staircase 2- comfortable and safe stairs with the recommended slope.

So that the stairs in the house are comfortable enough and do not take up too much space It is recommended to choose a flight of stairs with a slope of about 30°, which corresponds to the ratio of the height of the flight of stairs to its horizontal projection as 1:1.75. Staircase 2 in the figure above has this slope.

Calculation of stair step sizes

After determining the slope - the height and horizontal projection of the flight of stairs, at the second stage, carry out calculations of the optimal sizes of staircase steps.


Optimal sizes of staircase steps in a private house. To move comfortably along the steps of the stairs, you must fulfill the condition indicated in the green frame.

Building regulations require that the stair tread height be within h=16-19 cm.

For example, let's calculate the dimensions of staircase 2 in the figure. Taking into account the requirements of the rules, for further calculations we accept the height of the steps of our stairs h=17 cm.

Then, we find the number of steps in the flight of stairs. To do this, divide the height of the flight of stairs by the height of the step. Number of steps in a flight of stairs: 272 cm / 17 cm= 16 steps.

Building regulations limit the number of steps in one flight of stairs to no more than 18 steps. If this limitation cannot be met, then it is necessary to make two flights of stairs with an intermediate platform between them.

Knowing the number of steps, we calculate the width of the tread of the flight of stairs. To do this, divide the horizontal projection of the flight of stairs by the number of steps. For staircase 2 in the figure, the estimated width of the step will be equal to s = 474 cm / 16 = 29 cm.

On a step 29 wide cm. the person’s foot will feel confident and comfortable.

Finally, we check whether it will be comfortable to move up the stairs. To do this, we make a calculation using the formula indicated in the figure in the green frame: 2h+s=60-65. For our stairs 2*17 cm+29cm=63 cm— the condition for comfortable movement is met.

What should be the height of the steps without finishing?

A comfortable staircase should have all steps of the same height. The decision on what material to decorate it with is best made before the construction of the staircase begins - this will avoid surprises in the form of height differences between individual steps.

If the floor and treads are finished with the same material or materials of identical thickness, all unfinished steps must be the same height.

If the materials have different thickness, the height of the first step in the open state must be matched to the thickness of the material that will cover the tread and floor on both floors. The thickness of the ceramic tile (including the adhesive layer) is approximately 2 cm, roll material - about 0.5 cm, stone cladding -3-4 cm, made of wood - 4-5 cm.

Stair width

The width of a flight of stairs is the width of the passage between the stair railings, not the length of the steps. The length of the step may be different, depending on the method of fastening the railing.

Building regulations require that the width of the staircase passage be at least 90 cm. For comfort and convenience of moving furniture, it is recommended to increase the width of the passage to 110 cm.

Step overhang

Steps on stairs are usually made with an overhang of 2-3 cm, as in the picture above. An overhang is necessary so that the vertical surface under the step (riser) is less dirty and damaged.

On reinforced concrete stairs that are lined with wood, the overhang of the steps is achieved by increasing the width of the wooden covering.

On stairs without wood cladding, the surface under the step (riser) is made not vertical, but inclined, so that the surface of the upper step slightly overhangs the lower one.

However, for stairs made of concrete, an overhang is not necessary.

Finishing of monolithic concrete stairs

Reinforced concrete stairs look too massive, so they require a creative approach to finishing.

On reinforced concrete stairs All parts of the step need to be finished:

  • horizontal planes, that is, treads;
  • vertical - risers;
  • as well as baseboards - sections of walls located directly above the steps.

The treads are covered with non-slippery and abrasion-resistant material, while at the same time, the risers, which we most often touch with the toes of our shoes, must be shock-resistant.

How to choose finishing material?

The choice of material is influenced by the location in which the staircase is located and the method of finishing the floor on both floors. It's also worth asking yourself a few more important questions.

What shape does it have? flight of stairs? The steps of straight flights can be covered with almost any finishing material. For winder steps, it is better not to choose materials that will have to be cut locally (ceramic tiles, stone cladding) - the steps will not look very aesthetically pleasing, and the material consumption will be excessively large.

Who will use the stairs? In a house where there are small children or elderly people, the stairs must be covered with a material that perfectly absorbs falls. If children often play on the steps, facing material must also be warm (wood, carpet covering).

Should stairs be quiet?

Various Decoration Materials absorb sounds differently, which can affect the comfort of using the stairs.

Carpeting and wood absorb sound well, while stone and ceramic tiles sometimes increase footstep noise.

Will the staircase be damaged?

If the arrangement of the house has not yet been completed, you should take into account that when moving furniture, the stairs may be damaged. In this case, for finishing the steps you should not choose soft types of wood or carpeting that are susceptible to damage.

Finishing the stairs with soft material

Another inexpensive and labor-intensive way finishing steps is to cover them soft material. Stairs with elastic cladding are easy to keep clean, and carpeting is warm and absorbs sound well.

The finishing material must be carefully glued to the steps: if any fragments peel off, there is a danger of tripping and falling.

Roll material is thin and elastic. It can be laid without cutting, but the riser of a staircase finished in this way must be protected by a special profile made of metal or composite.

If it is a solid cladding, then it will have to be cut, and each step should be laid separately.

Which roll covering is suitable for stairs?

Carpeting should be easy to clean and dry quickly: polypropylene and polyamide coatings meet these conditions. You should not choose coverings with long pile or thick backing, such as felt.

Wool coverings are not suitable for stairs as they get dirty easily and are difficult to clean. It is also better not to choose acrylic ones - they have low strength.

Carpets intended for stairs are additionally reinforced. It is better to choose those that are marked with a special pictogram.

Elastic coatings must be abrasion-resistant, non-slip and flame-retardant. Rubber coating meets these requirements. At the same time, it is better not to use vinyl covering, since it is not resistant to dents, and shoe polish can leave marks on it that are difficult to remove.

Wood - for a home with soul

The wooden staircase evokes associations with the interiors of old houses. Thanks to its many advantages, it is also appreciated by owners of modern interiors.

Wood is warm to the touch, and it visually makes the room warmer. It is a springy material that absorbs falls well. Wood is readily used because of its plasticity and ease of processing: it can be adapted for steps of any shape.

Many people choose this material because of its natural color and layering pattern. But a wooden staircase can also be painted or coated with stain, thus giving it a completely different look.

Great opportunities are opened by the use of exotic wood, characterized by a rich palette of colors: from white - through yellow, red, brown, olive, green - to deep black.

Often only treads are made of wood, and the risers are left in plaster painted white. Such a staircase is made not only for reasons of economy - it looks light and less monotonous.

But you should remember that white risers get dirty very quickly, the plaster may fall off, and the painted surface is not so easy to clean. To avoid this, the risers must be plastered with durable cement mortar.

You can also use other materials to finish risers: resin-based plaster, ceramic tiles and even steel sheets.

The risers are finished with mosaic plaster. Against its background, treads made of light oak stand out expressively

Oak boards were used for the treads, and stone or ceramic tiles were used for the risers.

Dark wood overlays protect the surface of the treads and the top of the riser

A staircase with a straight flight can be finished with almost any material. In this case, dark wood is used, contrasting with the color of the walls.

Due to the risers painted white, the staircase with wooden steps seems easier

Ceramic tiles - for the practical

It is so diverse that it allows you to arrange a staircase for any interior. Richly decorated Southern-style tiles will create the climate of a Greek tavern, floor tiles imitating old stones will create a farmhouse feel, and sparkling polished porcelain tiles will create the atmosphere of a modern residence.

Is this a good material for stairs from a practical point of view? The tiles are cold, hard and do not absorb falls. At the same time, it is easy to keep clean, cheaper than stone, and much more durable than wood. It does not burn - in the event of a fire, it does not contribute to the spread of fire between floors.

However, if all elements of the staircase are tiled, it will look too monotonous. Interesting effects gives a combination of ceramic tiles with other materials, such as wood.

Which tiles are suitable for stairs?

Tiles that have certain parameters are suitable for stairs: they must have high class abrasion resistance, IV or V is best, hardness of at least 5-6 on the Mohs scale and anti-slip properties.

Such high requirements are imposed only on treads - risers may have lower technical parameters.

The surface of tiles intended for treads must be corrugated (corrugations are convex or concave elements on the surface of the tile) or embossed (relief is convexities on the entire surface of the tile).

The staircase can also be tiled with matte tiles with an uneven, rough structure.

For internal stairs floor tiles, gres and clinker are used.

Mosaic ceramic tiles are used for steps and risers, as well as for flooring in staircase halls

Ceramic tiles were used to finish the steps of the stairs various colors, reminiscent of a multi-colored carpet.

Finishing a monolithic concrete staircase with porcelain stoneware

Steps for stairs made of porcelain stoneware are slabs specially designed for finishing the steps of concrete stairs. The porcelain stoneware slab has dimensions 300 - 350 mm. in width and 1200-1300 mm. in length.

Porcelain stoneware steps can be with or without anti-slip notches.

Porcelain stoneware slabs can be used to cover both treads and risers.

Porcelain stoneware slabs are produced to look like wood, like marble, like a natural stone, as well as stages of pure colors (monocolors) and many others.

The steps come in a straight shape with a processed front edge, as well as with a curved “nose” - in in this case The choice depends on what appearance you want to give to the concrete staircase.

Porcelain stoneware steps are very durable, do not allow moisture to pass through, are not susceptible to chemical attack, and do not fade from sun rays, are environmentally friendly and do not require replacement for a long time. This is one of best options in terms of price-quality ratio for finishing concrete stairs.

Porcelain stoneware steps as a finishing material interfloor stairs are very diverse. Depending on your preferences, you can choose matte, lapped, embossed or polished steps for your concrete staircase as a finish.

You can finish with porcelain stoneware in the same style both the concrete staircase itself and the entire space between the stairs.