How to quickly and effectively revive an azalea. What to do with rhododendrons if the top shoots turn yellow after winter? Rhododendron dry leaves after winter

Quite a lot has been written about rhododendrons, but, oddly enough, the questions related to their cultivation have not decreased.
Rhododendron is one of the most beautiful flowering bushes in our gardens and parks. This genus is very ancient. His ancestors appeared on earth about 50 million years ago. Currently, the genus includes more than 1,000 species, from which about 12,000 varieties with a wide variety of qualities have been obtained.
Translated from Greek, “rhododendron” means pink tree. Plants of this species belong to the extensive heather family. Among rhododendrons there are trees up to 20 m tall, however, shrubs from 0.3 to 3 m predominate.
Cultivate these beautiful flowering shrubs began in the 15th century, the bulk of hybrids and varieties appeared in the 20th century. Rhododendrons differ not only in the variety of flower colors, but also in the size and shape of the bush; they are evergreen and deciduous. In autumn, deciduous shrubs display the most vibrant foliage colors: from yellow, orange to fiery red and purple.
Rhododendron is especially effective during flowering, which occurs before or after the leaves bloom, sometimes simultaneously with it. Flowering in the middle zone various types and varieties lasts from May to July.
Homeland of most of known species rhododendrons (over 700) is East Asia– districts big rivers, originating in Tibet and heading south through the western provinces of China (Sichuan and Yunnan). From here, the distribution range of rhododendrons extends west to Kashmir, north and east through Korea, and Japan to Kamchatka, the East Siberian and Okhotsk Seas, south to New Guinea (300 species) and northern Australia. As you move north from China, the number of rhododendron species decreases. In the tundra Eastern Siberia, Kamchatka rhododendron is found in Kamchatka, and the Arctic regions of Scandinavia, Greenland and Alaska are the border for the growth of rhododendrons. Only one winter-hardy species grows here - Lapland rhododendron. Only 10 species of rhododendrons are found in Europe. IN North America 29 species of rhododendrons, growing mainly along the coast of the Pacific and Atlantic oceans. Rhododendrons are not found in South America and Africa.
Based on natural occurrence data wild species German dendrologists I. Berg and L. Heft propose to highlight the main areas of distribution of rhododendrons:
1. Himalayas, Western and Central China.
2. Coastal regions of China.
3. Northeast Asia.
4. Japan.
5. Malay Archipelago.
6. Europe.
7. North America.
Most species grow in mountainous and coastal areas adjacent to oceans, seas and rivers and characterized by increased rainfall and humid air. Soil conditions play an equally important role for the normal development of rhododendrons, which require a loose, humus-rich, water- and breathable substrate. For most types of rhododendrons, the soil pH is 4.5-5.5, but 4.7 is optimal. Obviously, the need for acidic soils is explained by the formation of mycorrhiza, the development of which requires an acidic reaction of the environment. As for light conditions, it should be noted that rhododendrons naturally grow both in open, illuminated areas and in shade in the undergrowth. Various requirements to the light expand their capabilities practical application in landscaping. For successful introduction into culture wild species For rhododendrons, it is necessary to know their geographical distribution and environmental requirements.
Rhododendrons look very impressive in single and group plantings; they are widely used as components in compositions with coniferous trees and shrubs. Low-growing species planted on alpine hills, rockeries and gravel gardens. Medium-sized rhododendrons can be planted at the edge of the forest, as a hedge along the path. Medium-sized shrubs and groups of them are suitable for planting on the lawn, as well as tall views with a beautiful crown. Rhododendrons look good with a variety of ferns, ground cover plants, with small bulbous plants.
Rhododendrons naturally grow in the mountains. Sometimes they occupy such vast areas that during flowering it seems as if there is a fire burning around! But here is a rare opportunity to get a glimpse of such a miracle. The photographs show thickets of Japanese rhododendron (Rhododendron japonicum (Gray) Suring.), these photos were taken in its homeland in Japan.

Below are descriptions of fairly winter-hardy species and varieties of rhododendron that can be recommended for cultivation in central Russia:

Semi-evergreen species.
Rhododendron Ledebourii (Rh. ledebourii). Blooms in April-May. The flowers are pinkish-lilac, the height of the bush is 0.5-1.8 m. In winter, the leaves remain on the bushes and fall off in the spring with the beginning of shoot growth.

Evergreen species.
R. catawbiense (Rh. catawbiense). Blooms in late May-June. The flowers are lilac-purple, the height of the bush is up to 1.5 m.
R. Smirnova (Rh. smirnowii). Blooms in May-June. The flowers are pink, the height of the bush is up to 1.0 m.
R. short-fruited (Rh. brachycarpum). Blooms in June-July. The flowers are white or slightly pinkish, the height of the bush is up to 1.0 m.
R. largest (Rh. maximum). Blooms in June-July. The flowers are white or pink, the height of the bush is about 1.0 m.
R. golden (Rh. asheite). Blooms in May-June. The flowers are light yellow or golden, the height of the bush is up to 0.3 m.

R. blushing (Rhododendron russatum)
Evergreen cushion-shaped shrub, up to 1 m high, crown diameter up to 0.8 m. Grows slowly. The leaves are small, lanceolate, up to 3 cm long, dark green above, reddish-brown below, densely scaly. Blooms from late April to May for 25 days. The flowers are dark purple with a white throat, up to 2.5 cm in diameter, odorless, collected in 4 - 5 pieces. Photophilous. Prefers acidic, moist, well-drained soils. Completely winter-hardy. One of the most beautiful abundantly and annually blooming ornamental shrubs. Used in rock gardens.

R. small (Rhododendron minus)
An evergreen rounded shrub with a dense crown, up to 1 m high, up to 1.5 m wide. Leaves are dark green, elliptical, leathery, shiny, 4-10 cm long. Flowers 2.5-3 cm in diameter are pale pink or carmine pink. , collected in inflorescences of 10-15 pieces, blooms in June, prefers slightly acidic, rich soils and a bright location. Frost-resistant, young plants are recommended to be covered for the winter

R. dense (Rhododendron impeditum)
Evergreen, very dense, low cushion-shaped shrub, in nature and culture from 0.1 to 0.7 m tall. The shoots are short, densely covered with black scales. The leaves are small, broadly elliptical, 1.5-2.0 cm long, up to 1 cm wide, scaly on both sides. The flowers are small, violet-blue, 2.0-2.5 cm in diameter. It blooms in May - June, often again in August - September. One of the most valuable small-leaved and small-flowered evergreen species of rhododendron. Grows best on rich, fresh or wet soils. Light-loving, but tolerates slight shading. Mature plants overwinter under the snow, are quite winter-hardy, and bloom profusely every year.
Single or group plantings are recommended for low rocky areas and alpine hills, in clumps on lawns, and in borders.

R. rusty (Rhododendron ferrugineum)
Slow-growing, low, cushion-shaped shrub. Height 0.7 m, crown diameter up to 1 m. The bark is grayish-brown. The leaves are leathery, ovate, 3-4 cm long, up to 1.5 cm wide. Dark green, shiny above, with rusty scale-like glands below. Flowering lasts from the end of May to the end of June (30 days). The flowers are pink-red, rarely white, up to 2 cm in diameter, collected in inflorescences of 6-10 pieces.
Photophilous. Tolerates calcareous soils, but covered with a thick humus layer, preferably acidic (pH 4.5). Quite winter hardy. Alpine coaster, single and group plantings on the lawn with rusty rhododendron will decorate any garden.

R. carolininum (Rhododendron carolinianum)
An evergreen shrub 1 - 1.5 m high. The crown is wide-rounded. The bark is light brown. The leaves are elliptical, dark green, -10 cm long, 3 - 4 cm wide, glabrous above, densely covered with scales below. It blooms in May–June for about 3 weeks. The flowers are white or pink, about 3 cm in diameter, 4 - 9 in an inflorescence, funnel-shaped, with a yellowish spot. Grows slowly, annual growth is about 5 cm. Photophilous. Prefers slightly acidic, light, moist soils. Winter-hardy (down to -30 0C). In gardens they are planted in groups and singly in rocky areas.

R. daurian (Rhododendron dauricum)
Deciduous or semi-evergreen, highly branched shrub up to 2 m. height. The leaves are small, elliptical, densely covered with glands. The flowers are pink in various shades, rarely white, up to 4 cm in diameter. It blooms from late April to May until the leaves bloom. The undoubted advantage of the species is its high winter hardiness (up to -32 0C), but it may suffer from late spring frosts during flowering. Recommended for growing on the edges and in small groups under a light canopy coniferous species, for example, larches.

R. yakushimanum (Rhododendron yakushimanum)
Slow-growing compact, spherical shrub, 0.5 -1 m high, crown diameter up to 1.5 m. Leaves are elongated, 5-10 cm long, 3-4 cm wide, leathery, dark green above, with dense dark brown felt below. pubescence. Flowering is abundant and long: from May to early June. The flowers are initially pale pink, later white, up to 6 cm in diameter, collected in groups of 12.
Photophilous. Prefers soils that are fresh, peaty, rich in humus, slightly acidic or acidic. Winter-hardy, withstands winter frosts up to -22/26 0C depending on the variety, but at a young age it is better to cover the plants. Recommended for rock gardens, group plantings in rocky gardens.

Deciduous species.
R. Japanese (Rh. japonicum). Blooms in late May-June. The flowers are salmon-red, the height of the bush is 1.0-1.5 m. There is a form with yellow flowers.

R. yellow (Rh. luteum). Deciduous branched shrub, 1-2 m tall, growing strongly and reaching a width of 2 meters. The flowers are small, very fragrant, yellow or golden-orange, collected in inflorescences of 7-12 pieces, bloom before the leaves appear or simultaneously with them, in May - June. The leaves are oblong-elliptic and oblong-lanceolate, finely serrated and ciliated along the edges, pubescent on both sides with scattered appressed glandular-bristle hairs. In autumn, the leaves have a beautiful color: yellow, orange, red. It grows relatively quickly, is frost-resistant, requires moist soil rich in humus, and does not tolerate dry air. Produces abundant root shoots. The large intraspecific variability of this plant attracts the attention of breeders. Majority modern varieties Deciduous azaleas come precisely from the Pontic azalea.

R. Canadian (Rh. canadense). Blooms in May. The flowers are purple-violet, the height of the bush is 0.5-0.8 m. There is a form with white flowers!
R. Schlippenbach (Rh. schlippenbachii). Blooms in May. The flowers are white or pinkish, bush height is 1.0-1.2 m
R. Vaseyi (Rh. vaseyi). Blooms in May. The flowers are white pinkish, the height of the bush is 1.2 m.

R. Kamchatka (Rh. camtschaticum). Dwarf cushion shrub, slow growing. Max Height in culture 20-30 cm, width - 30-50 cm. Shoots are rough, strongly glandular-hairy when young. The leaves are obovate, up to 2.2 cm long, fresh green, red or yellow in autumn. It is very beautiful during the flowering period - from June - July to autumn. The flowers are dark pink or raspberry-purple, 2.5-5 cm in diameter, with dark specks, solitary or collected in inflorescences of 3-5 pieces. Frost-resistant type(up to -30 0С), undemanding to soils. Recommended for rock gardens, small gardens, ideal in compositions with heather. It's better to land on sunny places, prefers well-drained, poor, loose soils with a neutral reaction.

R. pukhansky (Rh. khanense). Blooms in May-June. The flowers are pale lilac-purple, the height of the bush is 0.8 m. Young plants require shelter for the winter.

There is an opinion that caring for rhododendron is quite difficult, and the shrub itself is capricious, so not everyone will grow it in a moderately cold climate. And only after getting to know this amazing and beautiful plant, you understand that it’s not a matter of complexity, but the specifics of culture. Rhododendron isn't complicated - it's just not like everyone else.

A rhododendron bush in bloom - such a beauty is worth the effort!

General requirements for the growing environment

It so happened that rhododendron is considered one of the elite of the flower and decorative kingdom. Having purchased such a valuable specimen, many strive to give it the best place in the garden - in the sun, with fertile soil, generously seasoned with humus. Stereotypes come into play that have nothing to do with the real needs of culture, and in this main mistake inexperienced gardeners.

IN natural conditions Most types of rhododendrons grow in the undergrowth, that is, in a special microclimate under the tree canopy, where they are reliably protected from the scorching sun, piercing winds, and drafts. When planting rhododendrons in the garden, they need to create growing conditions, focusing on the principles of life in the natural environment.

1. Light is needed intense, but diffused. This is exactly the lighting in the lower tiers of the forest, and exactly this intensity solar radiation determines the structure of leaves and the type of photosynthesis. Evergreen species are more sensitive to excess sun - on open space they get leaf burns.
2. Acidic and well-drained soil. Under natural conditions, most of the root system (and in rhododendrons it is superficial) is located in the deciduous forest litter, consisting of rotted and fresh litter, humus, and podzolic soil. This medium is not very nutritious, has an acidic pH, but is saturated with air, which is important given the structure of the plant’s roots.
3. Symbiosis with fungi is the basis of plant nutrition. The roots of rhododendron, like other members of the heather family, do not have root hairs. Supplier Role nutrients The mycelium of mycorrhiza, the simplest fungi that live directly in the cells of the plant, carries out the process from the soil into the tissue. To prevent the mycelium from suffocating, a constant flow of air is needed, so dense clay soils are absolutely unsuitable for heather crops.
4. Increased soil and air humidity. Rhododendrons have a special attitude towards moisture - they suffer from both a lack of water and an excess, especially in cases of stagnation or flooding. The problem is solved by the correctly selected structure of the planting substrate, which must not only be filled with moisture and retain it, but also have sufficient aeration.
5. Protection from winds and drafts. Many, including winter-hardy species that can tolerate temperatures of -30⁰ C and below, suffer from winter piercing winds and drafts. For protection, agrotechnical techniques are used - a protected place, shelter for the winter, planting in groups.

Thus, if rhododendrons are grown taking into account biological features, they will not create any problems and will delight their owners with magnificent flowering for decades.

Correct selection and planting is the key to plant longevity

To prevent purchased rhododendrons from becoming a one-season crop, you should thoroughly prepare for receiving the plant. Agrotechnical measures preceding planting are conventionally divided into several stages - choosing a suitable variety, storing components for the substrate, selecting a site.

Plant selection

Agricultural technology for planting and caring for rhododendron largely depends on the species. For those new to gardening, or if you are unsure of the temperature in your area, it is best to start with deciduous varieties. Firstly, they are more adapted to cold climates and do not require crown cover for the winter; secondly, they are not so demanding of moisture and can grow in open sun.

From deciduous shrubs for middle zone suitable R. canadian, Japanese, Daurian, Schlippenbach, yellow, pink. Moreover, it is better to start with species rather than varieties - they are more viable and resistant to unfavorable conditions.

If you still choose evergreen rhododendrons, start with the Katevbinsky, Caucasian, Yakushimansky species or varieties and hybrids created on their genotype.

Important! When choosing planting material, give preference to plants from local nurseries. Although they are not as attractive as those grown in the mild climate of Europe, they are hardened and adapted to the conditions of the region. The optimal age of the seedling is 3–4 years.

Selecting a location

The most suitable for growing rhododendrons are: problem areas gardens unsuitable for photophilous crops– in the shade of trees, on the north, north-west side of buildings. The main thing is that it is secluded, protected from the prevailing winds and midday sun rays in the region.

When placing shrubs under trees, you need to choose varieties of the latter with a deep root system in order to delimit the feeding zones of the plants. Rhododendrons prefer to be grown next to pine trees, junipers, oaks, maples, and apple trees.

Substrate preparation

In our gardens, soil suitable for growing rhododendrons is quite rare, so the planting substrate should be prepared in advance. Necessary components for the soil mixture:

• high-moor (red peat) with an acidic pH;
• coniferous litter, consisting of half-decomposed needles, twigs, cones, mixed with humus and other plant debris;
• river sand or sandy soil (top fertile layer);
• rotted sawdust of coniferous trees.

The substrate is prepared from peat and pine litter in equal proportions with the addition of one part garden soil or river sand. Needles can be replaced with sawdust, ordinary lowland peat can be acidified by adding sphagnum moss, acidic fertilizers, for example, potassium sulfate or ammonium. The main thing is that the substrate is light, breathable and acidic. If there is nowhere to get suitable ingredients for the substrate, you can purchase targeted soil for azaleas.

Important! One of the reasons why rhododendron does not bloom may be alkaline soil. Such an environment has a depressing effect on the plant - in addition to the fact that it does not bloom, it grows weakly, is attacked by pests, and chlorosis of the leaves develops.

Landing technology

Seedlings grown in containers are planted both in spring and autumn. IN spring period– it is advisable to do this before the start of active growing season, approximately in April. The autumn planting month is September, so that the plant has time to take root and adapt before the cold weather.

A mandatory agrotechnical requirement when planting shrubs is to prepare a deep (at least 50 cm) and wide (60–70 cm) planting hole, which is filled with prepared substrate. It is carefully compacted and spilled with water.

Before planting, the seedling is immersed in water so that the earthen lump becomes limp, the roots are straightened and placed in the prepared hole. Another requirement is that under no circumstances should the root collar be buried; it should be at the same level as before transplantation.

After planting, the root zone must be mulched. Suitable for these purposes pine needles, rotted sawdust, leaves, straw. Their layer should be at least 5–7 cm thick. Mulch not only retains moisture, but also serves as a light organic fertilizer for rhododendrons.

The shrub loves group plantings - natural thickets reliably protect the shoots from winds and freezing. The distance between seedlings depends on the height of the adult shrub, but not less than 1 meter.

Seasons: seasonal concerns

For rhododendron, the specifics of care are determined by seasonal changes: in the spring - emergence from winter sleep and preparation for flowering, in the summer - care about the growth and formation of flowering buds for the next year, in the fall - preparation for winter.

Spring chores

When positive temperatures are established and there are no strong night frosts, the covering material is removed. This should be done in cloudy weather, in several stages, gradually opening the bush, first from the north, and a little later from the south. Leaves that have overwintered without access to light are sensitive to the bright spring sun and can get burned.

In the spring, rhododendron leaves remain curled for some time, not receiving an impulse from the roots, so the first thing to do is to start the work of the root system. To do this, mulch is raked away so that the soil thaws faster. If after a week the leaves are still curled, it means they have lost a lot of moisture and the root zone should be watered with warm water.

After the buds swell, the bush is inspected and frozen shoots and dried branches are removed. If the weather is dry, the plant must be watered at least 2-3 times a week before flowering. Watering rate is 10–15 liters per adult bush.

Important! Water for watering rhododendrons should have a pH level in the range of 4–5 units, otherwise it will alkalize the soil, which is undesirable. To acidify water, dissolve 3–4 g of citric, oxalic, acetic (70%) acid or 15–20 ml of battery electrolyte in 10 liters of liquid.

Spring is the only time of year when rhododendrons can be fed organic fertilizers. You can only use well-rotted manure; if possible, high-moor peat is added to it. A bucket of this mixture is poured into the tree trunk instead of mulch and watered abundantly.

How to feed rhododendrons in the spring if there is no organic matter? At the end of flowering, fertilizing with Kemira targeted complex fertilizers for azaleas (rhododendrons) is effective. It is completely balanced and, in addition to containing necessary elements nutrition, acidifies the soil.

Summer care

After flowering, caring for rhododendron is aimed at replenishing strength for the growth of young shoots and the formation of flower buds. The plant needs the following agrotechnical measures.

• Regular, abundant watering and spraying of the crown with water at summer temperatures during the hottest hours.
• Removing the seed pods so that the bush does not waste energy on ripening the seeds, but directs them to young growth. This must be done in hot weather so that the injured shoot dries out immediately.
• If the plant was not fertilized with Kemira during flowering, it needs June fertilizing with nitrogen-containing fertilizer, for example, ammonium nitrate(25–30 g per 10 liters of water). Nitrogen is needed for the growth of green shoots. Watering rate is 2 buckets of solution per adult bush.
• In addition to feeding rhododendrons in the spring and June, some gardeners recommend applying fertilizers in the second half of July. By this time, the shoot has finished growing, its leaves become dense, leathery, and a flower bud appears at the top. Feeding at this time with a phosphorus-potassium composition is a guarantee abundant flowering next year.

Advice! For feeding in three steps - in early spring(100 g/m²), during flowering (100 g/m²) and in mid-July (50 g/m²) use the following universal composition acid fertilizers. Mix superphosphate (10 parts) and sulfates - ammonium (9), potassium (4), magnesium (2).

Preparing for winter

An important element of rhododendron care is proper preparation for winter.

An evergreen shrub must be very well saturated with moisture in winter so that it is enough for the long months of cold weather, so it is recommended to water it abundantly in the fall. Deciduous shrubs need watering only in dry weather.

Both deciduous and evergreen species need to cover the root system with a thick layer of mulch (up to 20 cm). The soil is covered in a near-trunk circle to the radius of the crown.

To provide shelter around the bush, build a wire frame or wooden slats- a kind of improvised wigwam. It is covered with spruce branches or covered with 2 layers of breathable covering material (burlap, lutrasil). Low-growing varieties are covered with fallen leaves and pine needles.

When growing rhododendrons, the main thing is to understand their nature, learn to recognize problems and needs based on their condition and appearance bush. The plant is responsive not only to correct agricultural technology, but also to love and care and will certainly reciprocate.

Video about preparing rhododendrons for winter:

And here are the treatment recipes, just in case. The simplest thing is to spray with honey-containing preparations.
Treatment and prevention of rhododendrons
Soil problems. Plant these plants only in acidic soil and use special fertilizers for rhododendrons. For old bushes and when the pH is too high, constantly mulch the soil with acidic peat or shredded tree bark.
Dying of branches. Trim diseased branches below the affected area and immediately spray the plants with copper-containing preparations, for example Bordeaux mixture or copper oxychloride.
Leaf spotting (pestalosis). If leaves fall caused by this disease, spray the plants once a week or slightly less frequently with copper-containing preparations.
Browning of buds (cycads). By destroying the cicadas, you will also get rid of browning of the buds. Spraying with Inta-Vir or Actellik is used against cicadas. Treatment is carried out early in the morning. Cicadas are also caught on yellow plates smeared with non-drying caterpillar glue.
Rhododendron bug. The same drugs are used as against cicadas, but the yellow plates do not help in this case. When treating, you need to moisten the underside of the leaves with poisons.

And these are just tips for you for further -For better flowering You need to remove faded inflorescences. This promotes the formation of buds the next year. And you also need to apply fertilizer 2 times a year, before flowering (in April) and after flowering (in early June). You need to buy special fertilizer - for azaleas or coniferous crops.
Evergreen rhododendrons love plenty of watering before wintering.
Another trouble is that rhododendrons do not like stagnant water. They even love water very much, but they won’t tolerate a wet place

Improper substrate preparation and chlorosis

Most common mistake When planting rhododendrons, there is inappropriate soil acidity, high salt content in the soil, insufficient or excessive soil moisture. If the acidity of the soil does not meet the requirements of the plant, chlorosis occurs. In alkaline and even neutral substrates, iron and magnesium, which play an important role in the formation of chlorophyll, are in a form that is not absorbed by rhododendrons. This leads to stunted growth and disease. An incorrectly selected substrate ultimately leads to the death of the plant. Chlorosis usually occurs when the pH of the substrate is above 7.

Symptoms: in plants affected by chlorosis, the leaf blade between the conducting veins becomes light green or yellowish-green. IN initial stage lesions, the veins still retain a dark green color, later they also turn yellow. With severe chlorosis, all young shoots become yellow or pale yellow and are easily burned in the sun. To eliminate chlorosis, the pH of the medium should be brought to 4.0-5.0. Feeding with iron chelates is also recommended.

Insufficient or excessive high humidity air or soil

Lack or excess of light

With a lack of light, the shoots become elongated, the decorative effect decreases, and the plants stop blooming. With too much light there is a risk of sunburn, disease and pests.

Sunburn

This disease is usually observed in the spring after severe frosts or at the end of winter when there are sharp fluctuations in temperature day and night. Most often, burns appear when the temperature drops to -15° C or more at night, and during the day, in the bright sun, the surface of the leaves heats up significantly and begins to actively evaporate water.

Symptoms: brown, dry, irregular spots appear on the leaves.

To avoid sunburn, rhododendrons should be planted in semi-shaded areas. If plants are planted on open place, in winter, artificial shading is required. Sometimes sunburn appear not as spots, but as a brown stripe running along the main vein of the leaf. During severe frosts, rhododendron flower buds may also be damaged. In this case, they become brown and dry out.

Winter drying of rhododendrons

Nitrogen starvation

With a lack of nitrogen, the entire leaf blade of rhododendrons becomes light. New shoots grow weakly, small leaves develop on them, and flower buds do not form. In mid-summer, or in August, the leaves of previous years begin to turn very yellow, then become reddish-brown and most of them fall off. By the end of summer, only the leaves of the current year remain on the plants, although under normal growth and nutrition conditions on an evergreen plant, the leaves remain for four years. These signs indicate that the plants are starving, and, in particular, experience an acute lack of nitrogen. Most often, the disease manifests itself in rhododendrons grown on lungs. sandy soils. If rhododendrons are regularly fed annually, they will not experience nitrogen starvation. When the first signs of nitrogen starvation appear, nitrogen fertilizing (ammonium sulfate or potassium nitrate) should be applied.

Soaking rhododendrons

The leaf blade becomes grayish-green, matte. Leaves without visible external reasons fall off. New shoots become soft, leaves wither, and the root ball is destroyed, although the roots at the root collar are not damaged. These signs indicate that the aeration of the root system is clearly insufficient. Wetting of rhododendrons is usually observed if they are grown on heavy, clay soils with poor drainage, and also if after transplanting they are watered abundantly and often. To avoid rhododendrons getting wet, they should be planted in a specially prepared water- and breathable substrate in a well-drained place. Watering throughout growing season should not be redundant.

Snowbreaker

Under heavy snow loads, rhododendron branches may break. Evergreen varieties and species are especially susceptible to such damage. During and after wet snow falls tall plants should be shaken off. Some authors recommend the construction of winter shelters.

I transplanted it into partial shade, but new leaves do not grow, the buds dry out... It is clear that the bush is alive. I've already fed it in the spring. The soil is wet, I spray it often... What should I do? I want to save the bush! Help with advice please!...)

Properly planted rhododendrons take root well. If the soil substrate was made with high quality, they will not require special care.

During the hot and dry summer and even autumn months, it is necessary to ensure that the soil under the bushes does not dry out. However, do not get carried away - excessive watering is harmful to them.

Since in the mountains these plants live in conditions high humidity air, then, as a rule, they respond very well to spraying the entire bush with leaves and flowers. Naturally, this should be done not under the scorching sun and not ice water.

It is best to water with rain or river water. Water from artesian well or the water supply contains a lot of calcium and magnesium salts - in this case the soil will begin to become alkalized and saline, and the rhododendrons will lose their decorative properties. (At first, nothing seems to happen, but after 2–4 years hard water will do its job.)

To prevent the soil substrate from becoming alkalized, the water for irrigation must be acidified - preferably with sulfuric acid. It is difficult to indicate the exact concentration of acid - it depends on the degree of water hardness. The easiest way is to use litmus indicator paper. The pH value of water should be 3.5–4.5.

Withered inflorescences, which reduce the decorativeness of the plant, need to be broken off or carefully trimmed, preserving the axillary buds on the upper leaves. This promotes abundant growth and flowering of rhododendrons next year.

In the spring, after 1-2 years, a bucket of rotted manure and peat or compost and peat is added to the soil in the tree trunk circle and buried to a shallow depth. In addition, they are added in dry form. mineral fertilizers: 1 tablespoon each of ammonium sulfate, superphosphate, potassium sulfate. All fertilizers are mixed with bedding.

Root system in rhododendrons it is shallow and compact, so loosening must be done very carefully, without digging up the tree trunk circles. To protect the soil from drying out, it is recommended to mulch tree trunk circles a layer of crushed peat or tree bark or pine litter, which has an acidic reaction.

Most likely you fed it too early, or over-fertilized it (it needs to be replanted!

The shelter was not of good quality and was affected by fungus.

Treatment with “iron chelate” with a weak solution or its substitutes.

They collected pine needles from the forest and sprinkled them around it, embedding them in the soil. and fell asleep on top. Provide watering and wait for the buds to start growing. After they start in a week, you begin to feed once a week. and treat with that product once a month

I had four rhodendron bushes. It was fine for two years, BUT! Then the first one died, the next year the second, now the third, and after wintering the branches were barely alive, and yet he died. The last one remained, half dead. I dug it up, removed the dry roots and planted it in bare peat, after a week I acidified the soil citric acid. It seems to be holding up somehow for now, we'll see what happens. Now I’m analyzing my mistakes, I think that they died because of the soil: it was not acidic enough. So you try to acidify the soil for it before it disappears completely.