A high-quality approach to the smallest details: the joint between tiles and laminate - how to close it. Getting rid of ceiling joints How to close joints

Troubles such as the formation of gaps between floor slabs on the ceiling, or simply the appearance of seams that were once not entirely successfully sealed, are very often found in panel high-rise buildings. Therefore, at the first signs of such phenomena, measures must be taken. And for this you need to have information on how to seal the seams between the panels on the ceiling yourself, without resorting to calling specialist finishers.

If the apartment is located on the last, top floor, and there is a gap in the ceiling between the slabs, then it is possible that it will soon begin to drip from it, which means that a persistent smell of dampness and stains of mold or mildew may appear in the rooms, and in addition , the heat will quickly leave the room. These circumstances are especially unpleasant during the cold months of the year. Therefore, in such a case, repairs must begin with an inspection of the roof, since if the defects are not dealt with roofing covering, then sealing the cracks from the inside and leveling the ceiling is wasted work.

If an inspection of the roof suggests that everything is in order with the roof, then you can safely begin repairing the ceiling. In the case when it is discovered that the waterproofing roofing material is damaged, then first you need to to take steps its repair, for example, replacing sheets of roofing felt, which usually cover the roof in multi-storey buildings with a flat “soft” roof.

However, seams can crack not only on upper floors, but also on any others. This is a common consequence home shrinkage processes.

So, having made sure that no external factors won't spoil it T labor-intensive work of sealing the seams of the ceiling, you can begin repair work inside the apartment.

Seal the seam on the ceiling

If a small crack has formed between the plates, then you should start by widening it. It often happens that the process of cutting even a small crack or crevice suddenly opens up “large horizons” of work. Therefore, once we get around to this repair event, it needs to be done immediately conscientiously, in full, so as not to return to this issue for a long time.

If you want to solve two issues at once - sealing the seam and leveling the ceiling, you need to clean the entire seam from old concrete. Usually, this is not difficult to do, since when building houses, they use not very strong material for sealing joints. cement mortar.

Materials and tools

In order not to repeat the mistakes of the craftsmen who, when building a house, worked on the seams of the ceilings without due diligence, you need to purchase quality materials and all the tools necessary for work. You have to not just cover it up, but carefully open the seam and carefully seal it when sealing.

So, starting work you need to purchase:

1. The tools you will need are a medium, wide and narrow spatula, a spray bottle, a narrow metal brush, a wide brush, a container for mixing the solution, construction knife and a drill with a hammer drill.

2. You can seal cracks using different materials, and it’s worth listing everything that might be useful.

• Primer for concrete deep penetration- necessary for better adhesion surface and material that will be used to seal the joint between the slabs.

• NC, which is designed for sealing deep seams. This material tends to expand when hardening, tightly filling the entire space of seams and joints.

Cement "NTs" - perfect for sealing joints

• If you find a wide seam that requires sealing, you need to purchase dense insulation materials made from polyurethane or polyethylene foam. Polyurethane foam can be used instead.
• You will need latex elastic putty.
• Reinforcing is required. Its width will depend on the width of the seam - the tape should extend beyond its borders by 40 ÷ 50 mm on both sides.
• For final finishing you will need primary and finishing putty for the entire ceiling area.

Prices for mixtures for leveling walls and ceilings

Mixtures for leveling walls and ceilings

How to seal the seams between the panels on the ceiling - we do it ourselves

Repairing the seams between the floor slabs will necessarily entail putting the entire ceiling in order, so it’s worth starting by completely clearing the surface of paint, whitewash and, possibly, plaster.

• Using a spray bottle, the ceiling is sprayed with water. It is better to spray not the entire ceiling at once, but in parts. The well-moistened area is left for 10 ÷ 15 minutes to soak, and then the old coating is removed using wide and medium spatulas. After this, you can move on to the next section, where you need to carry out the entire procedure all over again. Such work is carried out until the entire ceiling plane is completely cleaned.
• Having removed all the old covering, the owner will immediately see the scope of the upcoming work. Usually there are two or three joints of floor slabs per room. Sometimes they are sealed very sloppily and appear as ugly humps. These bulges need to be eliminated and the ceiling made perfectly flat.

To do this, you need to take a hammer drill and install it on it. the required nozzle, switch to impact mode without rotation, and step by step free the joint from the old frozen mortar.

The joint and the slab around it must be completely cleaned, and the gap itself must be recessed by at least 50 mm.

• Next, you need to take a narrow iron brush or a wide brush and thoroughly clean the gap from dust and small pieces of concrete.

• The next step is to treat the crack with a primer in several layers, each of which must dry. The primer will strengthen the frozen solution remaining inside the joint, will not allow dampness and fungus to form in it, and will ensure good contact with the repair crew, which will be applied later.
• If the gap between the joints is wide enough and amounts to more than 30 ÷ 35 mm, then you first need to fill it with polyurethane foam. It will adhere well to the primed surface and, expanding, will fill the entire opening.

As the foam hardens, it will come out of the seam, and when it is completely dry, it is carefully cut off so that at the junction of the slabs in the foam there is a groove, 30 ÷ 50 mm deep, tapering inward, like a triangle.

• If, during cleaning, a joint is found to be deep, but at the same time narrow, then you should proceed as follows.

Choosing a polyethylene foam seal required thickness, on him On the one side apply a strip of sealant and tuck it into the cleaned and primed joint using a spatula, leaving space to fill with concrete.

• Next, the joint is sealed with a solution of expanding concrete, but it is necessary to leave a small depression in the joint for the expansion of the solution and decorative plaster.

Sealing the seam concrete mortar"NC"

• After the solution has dried or prepared a groove in the dried polyurethane foam, an elastic latex-based material is applied to the joint. It is better to carry out the work using two spatulas - wide and medium or narrow. Use a wide spatula to scoop up the solution from a container, and use a narrow spatula to apply it to the joint between the plates, compacting it into the seam and leveling it to the level of the ceiling surface, while simultaneously removing excess putty.

• After 2 hours, which will be required for drying, they begin to reinforce the seams. To do this, apply a strip of 50 ÷ 60 mm to the seam and the ceiling next to it with a spatula. thin layer putty, fix the serpyanka mesh on it, pressing it into the solution and removing its excess with a spatula.

• After the seams have dried, the entire ceiling is treated with a primer, applying it using a roller. It is better to cover the surface with two layers of the composition.
• When the ceiling is dry, you can start painting it. First, a thin layer of primary plaster is applied, and after it dries, a finishing smooth layer is applied. It is applied with a wide spatula and at the same time leveled to perfection.

Finishing- puttying the ceiling

• After the finishing layer has dried, you can apply paint, whitewash or wallpaper to the ceiling.

Video: repairing seams between floor slabs

Seal a hole in the ceiling

Sometimes it happens that when cleaning a seam from old mortar, not just a narrow gap opens, but big hole– defect of the floor slab. In this case, this hole can be sealed in two ways.

Sometimes such a “surprise” may appear on the ceiling when cutting seams.

In any case, the first thing to do is to thoroughly clean inner part the resulting hole. This process is best done with a narrow brush.

1. Having freed the inside of the hole from dirt, it needs to be well sprayed with primer. After waiting for the first layer to dry, you need to apply the second.

• Next, the hole is filled with foam.
• Then, after it dries and expands, the excess is cut off, and a cone is cut from inside the hole, at the base the size of the hole and 40 ÷ 50 mm high.
• This cutout is necessary to secure the cement mortar in it, which is applied in the next step. It is leveled with a spatula and left until completely dry.
• Then putty is applied to the place where there was a hole and around it 50 ÷ 70 mm, and a sickle mesh is glued onto it, which is pressed into the applied layer of mortar, smoothed out and left to dry.
• Further work proceeds in the same way as when sealing seams.

2. Another method of sealing differs from the first, and it is used if a large void is found in the ceiling.

• In this case, you will need a piece of plywood (you can use laminate scraps) approximately 100 mm larger than the dimensions of the hole.
• Then, it is necessary to strengthen a wire grid in the hole, which must be secured to the sealant or cement mortar inside the hole. After the solution has dried, the wire must be securely fastened inside the opening. The grid will serve as a reinforcement for the repair mortar, with which they will create a unique stove.

Filling a volumetric hole in the ceiling - approximate diagram

• The mixed concrete is laid out on the prepared plywood; it should be uniform and not overly thick.
• The plywood platform with the solution is lifted and pressed tightly against the hole so that the solution completely fills the remaining cavity. We'll have to come up with a reliable support for this kind of formwork that will hold it until completely dry repair staff. A thick branch, a block or a pyramid of a table and chairs is suitable for this.
• After the solution dries in the opening, you will get a perfectly flat ceiling surface.
• Next, you can begin work on tidying up the entire surface of the ceiling.

Video: sealing a volumetric hole in a floor slab

It should be noted that it is quite possible to update the joint between the plates yourself. But complete is enough hard work, so it is better to entrust it to an experienced finishing craftsman. However, if you have the desire and confidence in your abilities, this is a completely doable task.

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 4 minutes

It often turns out that even in an ideally shaped room it is impossible to lay linoleum without a single joint due to standard sizes material. The resulting seams should not only be invisible, but also durable so that the coating does not lift up over time. Special attention requires a linoleum joint between rooms, because it is in this place that the load on the seam is especially high. To pick up suitable way coating connections worth considering possible options joint design and devices used for these purposes.

Linoleum connection options

There are several ways to seal linoleum joints. They differ in both the complexity of the work performed and the cost of materials and tools. At the same time, the quality of the final result will also be different.

• Secure the edges of the covering with double-sided tape. This method is good because it is cheap and easy to implement. But the reliability of connecting the joints in in this case remains in question - the glued edge of the coating will quickly begin to bristle.

• Use of thresholds and overlays for linoleum. Another inexpensive way, while being quite reliable. The only negative is that such an element will differ from the rest of the covering and stick out slightly above the floor surface.
• Gluing the edges with dispersion glue. Such compositions, which are also used for gluing material to a rough surface, are environmentally friendly, but do not provide complete sealing of the seam.
• . For a monolithic connection of coating strips, glue is used that melts the edges and, after drying, firmly fastens them together. You can work with it at home; it is suitable for both household and commercial linoleum.

• . This is done using a special PVC cord, which melts under the influence of high temperature and fills the seam, firmly fusing with the edges of the coating and forming a single whole with them. The method is used for commercial types of linoleum; it is quite complicated for independent implementation. The connection is invisible.

Let's take a closer look at how to seal joints household linoleum using decorative thresholds.

What are thresholds for linoleum joints

Threshold in doorway connecting joints flooring materials between rooms - simple and cheap way, allowing you to fix the edges of the coating, hide the seam and possible installation flaws.

Advantages of the method:

1. It is very easy to attach the threshold using the supplied screws or Liquid Nails glue directly to the subfloor.
2. The pad can be used multiple times and is easy to replace.
3. The plank will protect the material from moisture, dust and dirt getting underneath it.
4. The product will last a long time, especially if it is made of metal. Proper selection of colors makes this element almost invisible.
5. Thresholds have a decorative function - the design of the room will look complete.
6. If you decide to lay coatings of different thicknesses on a single-level floor, a joint pad will help smooth out the difference between them.

But thresholds also have their disadvantages:

1. The plank will stick out (albeit slightly) above the floor surface.
2. The threshold can only be installed in a doorway or under an arch; seams in the middle of the room cannot be hidden using this method.

When installing thresholds, you need to remember that they should not interfere with the complete closing of the doors - the edge of the canvas will have to be filed or installed after finishing the floors.

Types of thresholds

Close the joints of linoleum pieces with each other or with another floor covering You can use linings of different purposes and materials.

Depending on the design and method of application, there are the following types thresholds:

• Straight - for linoleum joints of the same thickness.
• Multi-level – compensate for differences in height on the floor; with their help, coverings of different thicknesses can be joined.
• Finishing – for sealing the edges of linoleum without joining with other materials.
• Corner - for finishing seams and edges of flooring on stairs.

The planks are made from different materials:

• Metal thresholds made of brass and aluminum are the most popular because the connection is strong, aesthetic and durable. Most often painted bronze, gold or silver.

• Plastic thresholds have a shorter service life, but some flexible models can be used to create rounded joints, and the price of the products is much lower. The requirements for them are specified in GOST 19111-77, which refers to thresholds doorways for semi-rigid products. In the photo below, the flexible plank performs several functions: it zones the space of the room and hides the difference in the thickness of the floor coverings.

• Rubber pads can have an aluminum base and prevent slipping.
• Wooden thresholds and MDF strips are rarely used due to high cost and a tendency to swell from moisture.
• Cork products are popular due to their environmental friendliness, softness and long term services. They perform a compensatory and shock-absorbing function.

How to attach overlays to coating joints

Self-tapping screws or glue can be used to secure the planks. When choosing a mounting method, you need to take into account the features of both methods:

• Installation with self-tapping screws is much more reliable; in products with a decorative plug, the fastening elements are not visible.
• Glue cannot provide such a strong connection, but it is suitable for cases where the subfloor is loose and cannot hold screws.

Does not require special skills. Laminate board - inexpensive and reliable coverage, which fits into almost any interior. The only thing that needs to be done when installing laminate flooring is to seal the joints. Since the basis of the laminate is fiberboard, when moisture gets under the panel it swells and becomes deformed. A prerequisite for installing laminate boards is sealing the joints. In this case, it is important how to close the laminate joints.

Sealant for processing

A sealant is a special gel that is used to seal seams, gaps and joints. In this case, there is no gluing of joints, which is a big plus when the panel needs to be replaced.

It is best to choose a sealant that contains silicone. This silicone-based product has very good performance properties:

• reliability;
• long service life;
• Possibility of using a sealant at any temperature.

In addition to silicone, the sealed gel includes the following components:

• additives: quartz flour, chalk;
• antifungal substances;
• dyes;
• and substances that reduce the viscosity of the gel.

If the question of how to seal the joints of laminate flooring has been resolved, now you need to prepare the tools and materials for processing them.

Tools and materials

Before using the sealant, you must read the instructions for use. If the sealant is used in residential premises, carefully study its composition for the presence of harmful chemical components.

1. Silicone based sealant.
2. Rubber hammer.
3. Ruler, pencil.
4. Jigsaw.
5. Latch.
6. Spacer wedges.

Before you begin laying the laminate, you must carefully prepare the floor on which the laminate panels will be laid. The smoother the base, the less time it will take to process the joints.

Features of laying laminate panels

1. The base for installing laminate flooring must be dry, clean and level. Surface differences should not exceed 3-5 mm per meter. Otherwise, the interlocking joints of the panels will quickly become loose and become unusable, which will require additional time and material costs for dismantling and installing the laminate.
2. If the differences in the base are more than 5 mm per meter, it is advisable to make a new screed and only then lay the laminate panels. Smooth surface The base will allow you to correctly lay out the underlay under the laminate in order to protect the floor covering from moisture.
3. The first row of panels must be laid with a deformation gap of 8 mm. This gap should be maintained around the entire perimeter of the room using spacer wedges. This is done so that when the temperature environment in the apartment (room) changes, the laminate “breathes” and moisture does not accumulate under it.
4. When assembling the panels, it is necessary to coat the joints with a sealant. Excess gel must be carefully removed with a sponge or wet cloth. All other panels are mounted in the same way. After laying the laminate, all joints will be sealed.
5. The gaps that remain in the doorway can be decorated with elements such as baseboards or thresholds. How to coat the joints between the laminate and the baseboard? You can use the same silicone-based sealing gel.
6. If the laminate board is joined:

• with linoleum - cover the seams with a plastic threshold;
• with tiles - close the seams with an aluminum threshold;
• with a stone surface - it is advisable to close the joints with cork plates.

1. Silicone-based sealant does not bond laminate flooring. The gel prevents excess moisture from penetrating under the floor covering, so, if necessary, you can easily replace several panels.
2. If an expensive high-quality laminate is used for the flooring, then there is no need to use a sealant. The joints of this laminate are already treated with a water-repellent agent.
3. If a heated floor system is installed in the living room, then adhesive laminate cannot be used. Since this coating is non-removable, and if the floor heating system breaks down, you will have to remove the entire laminate. This means that it will take time to lay a new floor covering and there will be material costs for purchasing new laminate panels.
4. Laminate flooring must be laid along doors, windows or verandas, that is, along natural source Sveta. Otherwise, the falling shadow will emphasize the joints of the panels, which will make the room less aesthetically pleasing. If there are several windows in the room, then installation should begin from large window diagonally. This method is more expensive, but the most effective.

Video

This video shows how to install a plinth with different types fastenings:

This video is about installing a flexible profile:

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Today, laminate is the most relevant and popular floor covering, which is used in almost all rooms and premises.

However, using it in rooms such as a hallway or kitchen is not entirely practical or advisable. For such rooms the best option will ceramic tile. However, laminate flooring in the kitchen can be used in the dining area, and the rest of the room is tiled. And here the question arises: how to close the joint between the tiles and the laminate (see video below)?

In order for the joint to look neat and beautiful, it must be properly hidden. Keep in mind that the tiles differ in thickness. Therefore, they need to be laid out at the same level to achieve a smooth transition. Do not forget to leave a distance of 0.5 cm between the laminate and the tiles so that the wood different temperatures and humidity could expand or contract without being damaged or swelling.

Threshold installation

A convenient and most popular way to seal the joint between tiles and laminate is to install thresholds. Using the same technology, you can close any joints of floor materials, for example: between tiles and tiles. Today you are offered a huge selection of thresholds. They vary in material: plastic thresholds, wooden thresholds, metal thresholds or aluminum, etc. There are different types and flowers. Let's take a closer look at the most popular ones.

Wooden thresholds

Wooden thresholds are the most popular, as well as environmentally friendly and the most beautiful. They fit perfectly with laminate flooring. This can be seen even from the photo. However, with all this, they are inferior in flexibility to plastic thresholds. And therefore they are not used for wavy joints. I would also like to note that wooden thresholds are difficult to use and require special care.

Plastic sill

For a wavy joint, a plastic threshold is perfect. They are relatively new on the market, but quickly became popular and in demand. The thresholds bend well, taking the required form and protecting the joint from dust and dirt.

Metal threshold

If you want to use more durable material for the threshold, then choose a metal one. Metal thresholds are perfect for any interior, since you can choose the desired color of the material from the variety available on the market. The metal threshold can be chosen to match the color of the laminate or tile, and you can also consider the color of any interior elements and thereby emphasize the design. If the situation arises that the laminate and tiles lie at different levels, then in this case you can use a multi-level metal threshold that will help smooth out the difference.

Aluminum and rubber thresholds

Aluminum thresholds are used mainly for smooth joints. And for wavy joints, rubber thresholds are better suited. it won't be difficult. This work can be done with your own hands and in just a few minutes. Just remember to leave 0.5 cm between materials. To secure the threshold, you must make holes in the tie for screws in advance. As a rule, they are sold complete with a threshold. It is enough to screw the threshold with screws so that it is motionless.

Fastening the thresholds

It happens that the kit does not include screws. In this case, the threshold between the tile and the laminate can be secured in a different way. Immediately fill the gap with silicone sealant to prevent dust and moisture from getting into the gap. To fasten the thresholds, you can use fastening strips, which are screwed with self-tapping screws to the screed. It is on the mounting rails that the threshold for laminate and tiles is then attached. As an alternative, you can use liquid nails.

Flexible threshold or molding

For covering wavy joints various materials You can also use a flexible threshold. It is installed on a plastic profile with bulges, with which it is attached above the floor covering. Additional fixation with screws will be required. To make the molding more flexible, before installing it it is worth lowering the threshold into warm water for about 20-30 minutes.

Why use thresholds and moldings

A threshold or molding is needed to close the joint between the tiles and the laminate, and give it an attractive appearance. appearance. The thresholds also prevent the entry of dust and moisture, which will protect your laminate from the inside. The thresholds also hide the contraction and expansion of the laminate. It also allows you to zone the space.

Everyone knows how to join tiles in corners. home craftsman, who began cladding for the first time. And only with experience comes the understanding that in construction there are no perfectly right angles, and therefore laying tiles is not at all as simple as it might seem at first glance. Over the years comes true mastery, and it turns out that there are not one, not two, but many more ways to design both the outer and inner corners. And each of them has the right to exist, and can be the only true one in a certain situation.

First thing's first - layout!

And the cladding of any room begins with the layout, since in standard apartments Not only do there not exist perfectly right angles, but there are no ideal angles either. smooth walls. The tiler carefully measures the room, assesses the condition of the walls and floors, and inspects the corners to choose a design method for each. It depends on which method of joining tiles in the outer and inner corners is chosen:

• choosing a tool to perform the work;
• the amount of tiles purchased in excess of the norm, in reserve;
• actually, the layout itself.

Basic layout rules

The layout begins with the surface that will be most noticeable. For example, for a bathroom - this is the wall located opposite front door. It is laid out first, and only then the walls adjacent to it. The temptation to start tiling from the corner is great, but if you succumb to it, it is almost guaranteed that cracks will appear in the corners and under the ceiling, sometimes several centimeters wide, which will have to be laid out with tiny scraps. As a result, the deviation of the wall from the vertical will be very noticeable, and the customer will have an extremely negative impression of the work of the master. Therefore, when making a layout, you need to adhere to certain rules:

How to join tiles in inner corners

There are very few options for decorating an internal corner. You can do this in the following ways:

• using an overhead corner (trim)
• design of a regular seam without additional details.

Making a corner using a plastic profile

This option is used in internal vertical corners, as a rule, by novice craftsmen. With experience comes the understanding that plastic part, rarely perfectly matching in color with, rather cheapens than decorates the interior. An exception to the rule is the use of trims at the junction of the floor and wall covering. Here, a corner is almost always appropriate and desirable. Do not like plastic corners in the bathroom and the housewife - because they quickly become dirty, but tiles are much more difficult to maintain.

Easy pairing of 2 rows of tiles

Joining the tiles yourself in the inner corner has clear advantages. Firstly, a corner designed in this way looks more organic, especially in small rooms. Secondly, this method does not require additional parts, which will further increase the cost of repairs.

Of course, the simple pairing method also has disadvantages. This is the professionalism of a master like necessary condition and a high probability of cracking along the seam due to the natural tendency of the tiles to both contract and expand. This problem especially often occurs when facing plasterboard structures, but on brick walls that's great rarity.

To prevent the formation of cracks, use:

• correct calculation of seam width;
• use of sanitary silicone in vertical internal corners.

Important! Decor internal corner without using an overhead corner and without finishing the seam is unacceptable! The result of this installation will be a black gap at the junction. The only way to correct the appearance is silicone. But it’s unlikely to be able to match it exactly to the grout.

How to join tiles in outer corners

There are many more ways to design an external corner. This:

• use of trims and ;
• technology for cutting tile ends at an angle of 45°;
• easy installation one row of tiles on the edge of another;
• forming a corner using grout.

Method 1. Using a trim corner to lay out external corners

Today stores offer a wide range of corner profiles for laying tiles. They are made from plastic, aluminum and even brass and can be the most different colors and sizes. The size of the corner must be selected based on the thickness of the selected tile, which is usually 7, 9 or 11 mm.

Interestingly, in most European countries, trims are used everywhere, due to the ease of the method of decorating corners. In Russia, the mass fashion for corners is slowly but surely declining for a number of reasons:

• the desire to be different from everyone else;
• the small size of most apartments, in which unnecessary details in the cladding split the room, visually making it even smaller;
• the fragility of plastic trims and their high tendency to become dirty;
• high cost metal corners;
• the emergence of new, more aesthetic methods of cladding external corners.

Installation of trim corner

Installation decorative corner This is done after one wall in the room has been completely lined. Then along the entire height of the corner using mounting gun applied silicone sealant. The flat side of the trim is applied to the already laid tile, while the groove of the part remains free to lie on the adjacent wall. IN further tiles is laid along this wall from bottom to top, and the master inserts the edge of the facing material into the groove of the corner. A day after finishing the work, the seams between the tiles and the trim are rubbed down. Installation is performed in the same way decorative element and in horizontal corners.

Method 2. Cutting the edge of the tile at an angle of 45°

If the question “How to connect tiles in the outer corners?” the master replies: “Of course, at an angle of 45°!” - in front of you real professional. Just because this method It’s not a challenge for beginners, because it requires experience, firmness of movement and a lot of time. In addition, it is impossible to do without good tool, namely angular grinder. It works using a diamond disc. If you need to trim double-fired tiles, it is better to use a tile cutter with a rotating frame.

The disadvantage of this design is the fragility of the resulting angle. You just have to hit the edge of the masonry well, and with a high probability the tile will break off. However, fans of the method are ready to put up with this, because no other method of designing a corner gives such a harmonious result: the beveled edges fit perfectly together and form a perfectly right angle with a thin, barely noticeable gap.

Method 3: Laying one row of tiles on the edge of another

This technique is good for beginners, because there is nothing complicated about it. At first facing material one wall is completely laid out, then another, the outer tiles of which simply overlap the edge of the tiles laid perpendicularly. Very often, this installation method is chosen for laying tiles with relief, because in most cases it is chosen, succumbing to the opinion that seams, joints and unevenness of the walls will not be so noticeable on the textured surface. This is true, just like the fact that it is very difficult to join the embossed one beautifully in the corners.

Another variation of the laying method is in a running pattern: in the first row, tiles of one wall are placed on top, in the second - another, and so on. Very often this method is used when tiling rooms. The result is a deliberately careless masonry, most appropriate in country or loft style interiors.

Method 4: Forming a corner using grout

Its essence: laying tiles without trimming and without protrusion on the outer corner. The resulting gap is shaped into a semicircle using grout or other adhesives. It must be admitted that this technique is still unpopular, both among craftsmen and customers. Although it solves a common problem: eliminating fragility external corner and prevent seam cracking, which is especially common on plasterboard walls. Therefore, any tiler should know how to close joints in corners using grout.

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How to join tiles in corners