Making a pen from used plastic bottles with your own hands. Making a handle from used plastic bottles Make a plastic handle for a knife

Do you also have a passion for beautiful knives? Would you like to learn how to make knife handles with glitter and other decorations yourself? In the shop handmade will cost a huge amount of money, we suggest you use a small list budget materials and do everything yourself. You can choose any shape, color, size. A knife with a fancy handle will become a great gift connoisseur of edged weapons.

Watch the video to learn how to make plastic for bladed weapons.

To make plastic, we need:
- epoxy resin;
- glitter (can be bought in bottles or bags);
- a small piece of cardboard from which we will make a box;
- scotch;
- construction mesh;

First of all, we start making a box from a piece of cardboard. We will need a box for a piece of plastic. You can make it any size.
Before gluing the edges of the box, you need to cover the entire inside with tape.

After inner side will be sealed with tape, we need to collect all the edges and glue them together. Can be glued with the same tape or glue gun, for whom it will be more convenient.

Then we divorce epoxy resin, squeeze out as much as we need to fill our box. It must be diluted in a separate container so that it is homogeneous and completely mixed.

Depending on what color and texture you want, you fill the resin box with half or a little more than half and sprinkle glitter in there.

If the plastic is hard and reinforced, then we use a special construction mesh. We lay it on the surface of the resin when glitter and paint for color have already been added to it. Then we fill it with resin again and put the mesh back on. Our design will resemble a reinforced sandwich.

Now a little about packaging. If you pour it into a mold that you don’t cover with tape, then when the resin hardens, you simply won’t be able to get it off the plastic. When the box is covered with tape, everything will come off easily.

This article will talk about one of the many ways to recycle and reuse used plastic bottles. In case you have accumulated a large number of plastic bottles, then instead of throwing them away you can easily make them beautiful hands For kitchen appliances or other tool. So, instead of polluting environment, create useful things almost out of garbage.

Materials and tools:
- plastic bottles
-blender
-mini oven
-sharp knife
-parchment paper
-gloves
- sandpaper with grain up to 12000
-MicroMesh pads
-lathe
-circular machine
-spoon with thread
-building hair dryer

Detailed description of making handles from plastic bottles.

Step One: Polyethylene high density for enthusiasts

On each plastic container the number must be indicated and letter designation marking the type of plastic from which this or that product is made. IN in this case The bottles used to make the pens had the number 2 marked HDPE (LDPE). This means that such plastic can ignite even when high temperature emit fumes harmful to the body. Therefore, all work related to heat treatment Such materials must be carried out in rooms that have an exhaust hood, ventilation and are well ventilated.

To make handles, you first need to cut the plastic into pieces. It is best to use a sharp knife to do this first, and then place the cut plastic in a blender to break the plastic into even smaller pieces. Then the resulting plastic porridge must be placed in the oven, preheated to 165°C. At this temperature, you need to make sure that the entire mass of plastic melts to a transparent state.

Step Two: Adding Color Variations

The time it takes for the plastic to melt is selected individually and largely depends on the volume and shape of the container in which the melting will take place. In order not to spoil the container for remelting and subsequently to avoid problems with separating the molten plastic, the author used parchment paper as an outer shell, since it is parchment paper that does not stick to HDPE plastic!
The amount of plastic used for the first batch was equivalent to 8-9 plastic bottles that previously contained milk. To make the handle, which will be made from this plastic, brighter and more interesting in appearance, several colored caps from mustard and other cans were cut into the total mass and added. As a result, the workpiece obtained in this way will have sharp edges; it is important to remember this and wear gloves when working.

After adding multi-colored details The plastic mixture is returned to the oven for another hour. It is best to monitor the melting of the plastic every 30 minutes to avoid any problems.

During the melting process, the author decided to twist the existing workpiece several times. This type of plastic, when heated, resembles a soft candy in consistency, so it is quite easy to twist or crush it. Such manipulation will give a spiral pattern to the future handle. Since the plastic must be quite hot during twisting, this work must also be carried out strictly with gloves.

Outside the oven, the plastic cools and hardens quite quickly, so after kneading, the workpiece was sent back to the oven.

Step Three: Creating a Mold for the Workpiece

While the plastic is melting, the author made a mold from plywood, in which the plastic blank will cool completely.
The mold dimensions were chosen as follows: height 50 mm, width 50 mm, length 150 mm. The dimensions were selected based on the required parameters for obtaining the workpiece for more convenient processing on a lathe. It is necessary to avoid any air pockets when pouring the plastic into the mold to cool by applying maximum pulling force.

The workpiece cools down for about 12 hours, that is, in 12 hours the plastic inside the mold completely cools, all this time it must remain in the form tightened with clamps. This is the only way in the end you will receive a workpiece of decent quality for subsequent processing on a lathe.
The next day, after unwinding wooden mold, the author took out the resulting plastic blank. It turned out to be 3x5x15 cm in size, which is suitable for making a normal handle.

Step Four: Lathe Turning and Roughing

Since it would be more convenient to use a workpiece with equal sides on a lathe, the author decided to cut it to square shape. A circular saw was used to level the shape of the workpiece. After which the workpiece was secured in the chuck lathe and subsequently ground to a cylindrical shape.

After grinding, several small cavities were discovered inside the workpiece. These cavities are fairly easy to fix using a hair dryer and some plastic shavings. The shavings should be heated in the oven on a parchment sheet at 165 degrees for several minutes. Then a heat gun heats up the problem area of ​​the workpiece and the cavities are filled with plastic heated in the oven.

For best results, heat the workpiece evenly and use a spatula to press the plastic shavings deeper into the cavities of the workpiece. By filling all the voids with shavings and leaving the workpiece to cool for another couple of hours, you will get an excellent workpiece for the handle, which will be devoid of cavities.

Step Five: Finishing the machine and sanding

After waiting the time necessary for the workpiece to cool completely, you can begin subsequent processing. To prevent the handle from scratching, you need to give the workpiece a smooth shape. For this, the author decided to use wet sandpaper. According to the author, the processing of HDPE plastic is not much different from the processing of acrylic parts. For processing, sandpaper with a grain size of up to 12000 was used, as well as MicroMesh pads. Since HDPE is quite slippery, sandpaper with this grit will be most optimal and convenient.

Step Six: Attaching the Tool or Accessory Without Using Glue

Hello brainwashes! If you have accumulated a large number of plastic bottles, then you can actually use them to make a handle for a kitchen utensil or other tool. This pleasant feeling, create with your own hands something useful from practically trash!

Step 1: Enthusiast HDPE

The recycling symbol with the number 2 or the letters HDPE means unsafe plastic! It may ignite at high temperatures and release harmful fumes. Therefore, when processing this material, it is necessary to work in a well-ventilated area.

IN this project I used a blender and a mini oven. By using sharp knife you need to cut the plastic into small pieces. Next, heat the oven to 325°F (165°C) and melt the plastic until clear.

Step 2: Add Color Variations

Melting time depends on the volume and shape of the melting container. I suggest using parchment paper for the lining (outer shell) as it will not stick to the HDPE plastic! The amount of plastic is equivalent to 8-9 plastic milk bottles. Next I added some colored containers. Can lids, mustard bottles, or other colored pieces of plastic will work here. The resulting workpiece will have rough, sharp edges.

During the melting process, I had the idea to make a blank with a spiral pattern. Therefore, with the help of work gloves, I twisted and wrinkled several times hot material. Be careful!

After some time, the plastic begins to cool and harden. Therefore, after kneading, I sent the workpiece back to the oven to warm up. Please note that this type When melted, the plastic resembles “soft candy.”

Step 3: Create a mold for the workpiece

Next, the plastic must be placed in a mold made of plywood.
The depth of the mold cavity is 5x5x15 cm. This is how we get a workpiece for processing on a lathe. YOU NEED TO APPLY MAXIMUM PULLING FORCE to avoid cavities and air pockets! Leave the workpiece in the form compressed with a clamp for 12 hours for complete cooling and hardening of the plastic.

The next day I unrolled the wooden mold and assessed the resulting workpiece. In the end, I received a blank measuring 3x5x15 cm, which is quite enough to make a handle.

Step 4: Lathe turning and roughing

On circular saw I cut the workpiece to a square shape with a side width of 3 cm, and then secured it in a lathe chuck and turned it into a cylindrical shape.

During the grinding process, I discovered cavities inside the workpiece that needed to be sealed with patches!
I heated the problem area with construction hair dryer and used plastic shavings that were left over from the turning process (I preheated them in the oven at 325°F (165°C) on a piece of parchment paper for a few minutes).

Heat the workpiece evenly with a hair dryer and use a spatula to press the chips into the voids. After a short period of time you will get an excellent workpiece with patches.

Step 5: Finishing the machine and sanding

Wait a while until the workpiece cools down. Next you can give it a smooth shape.
Treat the surface with wet sandpaper. HDPE plastic is processed on the machine in the same way as any acrylic blank. For finishing I used sandpaper up to 12000 grit and MicroMesh pads. HDPE plastic is very slippery and is easy to handle with sandpaper like this.

Step 6: Attaching a Tool or Accessory Without Using Glue

Problem of this material the fact that it is not “friendly” with glue. That's why I came up with the idea of ​​​​creating a mechanical fastening.
I decided to use the resulting ice cream scoop handle. To begin with, I drilled a hole with a diameter of 8 mm in the workpiece.

Be careful! When heating the spoon becomes very hot, wear protective gloves.

Step 7: Final Stage

After screwing the handle into kitchen utensils with the threads, I took it off the machine and sanded it by hand.
I was pleased with the result because I made the item from bottles that were destined to be thrown in the trash.

Making handles for knives.
Knife blades are suitable both old and (which is better) new. I repeat, making new knives is preferable, since the part of the blade allocated for the handle can be easily “programmed” for the design of the latter. And when “modernizing” an old knife, you have to adapt a new handle instead of the old one, which is not always convenient. In Fig. Figure 25 shows the three operations involved in creating a handle from overlay plates. It’s clear, first they make a knife blade with a rectangular end under the handle. In this case, it makes sense to decorate the handle with a ferrule, for which it is best to try to select a tube from of stainless steel preferably with thin walls. The ring can be easily shaped into an oval, rectangle, circle, or polyhedron. At worst, silver and gold will do wedding rings, if the love ended and the marriage broke up. Don't let the goodness go to waste! 🙂
After polishing, the ring is put on the end of the blade, intended, of course, for the handle. Two internal overlay plates are cut with an allowance for the ring and for processing. The upper ends of both plates are adjusted so that they fit tightly into the ring, protruding beyond its limits by 2...3 mm. Next, the resulting assembly is clamped in a vice and three holes for rivets are drilled in it, countersinking the edges of the holes for countersunk rivets. After installing the rivets, their protruding parts are ground flush with the plates. The top linings are made in the same way, for which plexiglass with a thick dark color is selected so that the rivets are not visible through these plates. The outer linings are glued to the inner ones and clamped with clamps or in a vice, leaving them like that for two days. After assembling the handle, gaps may remain in it, for example, on the sides, which is observed if the dimensions of the part of the blade for the handle smaller sizes the handle itself (this is usually what happens). To seal these cracks, plexiglass plates are selected (their thickness is equal to the thickness of the canvas) and glued into these cracks. On the outer plate of the handle, its outline is drawn in its final form (Fig. 25, b), after which, along the contour, everything unnecessary is removed from the gluing assembly with an emery wheel, hacksaw, or file, after which the handle is ground and polished. In Fig. 25, c shows the finished handle.
Kitchen fleas are often found at flea markets. homemade knives with handles (made of plastic), shimmering with all the colors of the rainbow. This play of color is achieved using... staniol candy wrappers. This wrapper is first crumpled to create a lot of kinks with micro-edges that send beams of light in all directions. Then the wrapper is smoothed out (not until the kinks completely disappear) and inserted between the blade and transparent plexiglass overlays (Fig. 26), after which the overlays are connected to the knife blade with rivets. In order for the color tints to be iridescent, staniol wrappers with colored patterns are selected. Handles made of single-color “silver” (or “gold”) staniol also look quite impressive.

The type-setting handles, made up of multi-colored pieces of plexiglass plates, are interesting in their own way (Fig. 27). You can make such a handle with a knife with a shank (part of the blade on which the handle is attached) of any shape. But if the shank for the inlaid pen is short, and sometimes it is designed that way, then a steel rod with a diameter of 4...6 mm is welded or riveted to such a short shank. For more convenient fastening of the plates to the rod, a thread 10...15 mm long is cut at the end of the rod. Any scraps of plexiglass will be suitable as typesetting plates, as long as they “fit” in size. In all the plates, except the last two, holes are drilled for the rod, and in those upper plates that will fit on the shank, more holes for the shank are developed using needle files or drill cutters. The penultimate two plates are threaded to screw them onto the rod. The plates are lubricated with glue, threaded onto a rod and clamped (compacted) by screwing threaded plates onto the rod. The lowest plate (it has no hole) is glued on after a week. Next, the handle is processed using an emery stone, sanded with sandpaper and fragments of ordinary window glass, and polished.

When making plates with holes, it must be borne in mind that in transparent plexiglass the walls drilled hole acquire milky color, which does not add beauty to the product, since after polishing the product, the walls of the holes begin to be visible through the transparent plexiglass. Therefore, it is advisable to iron the hole from the inside with a hot rod; as a result, the milky matte color of the walls will disappear and the hole will even turn into an element decorating the handle. I also advise making the upper and lower inlaid plates from plexiglass with a thick or dull dark color to mask traces of connections (rivets, threads). By the way, a pen made of transparent plexiglass, with its play of light, creates the illusion of a product made of precious minerals.
But for overhead handles (see Fig. 25), plexiglass with a dull color is preferable, creating smooth blurred transitions between layers of plexiglass, which gives the handle the appearance of a product made of marble, granite, porcelain, horn.
A type-setting handle made up of plates arranged obliquely looks more elegant. Here, a handle is first formed by gluing the plates offset relative to each other, as shown in Fig. 28. The glued handle blank should be put aside for about a month, and only after this period should processing begin. First, we cut off the top of the workpiece along the “K-L” plane, perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the knife. Then a protrusion is made on the top of the workpiece - seat for the ring. Now all that remains is to strengthen the knife shank in the handle blank. If the shank is short enough, it is heated and pressed into the workpiece, for which a corresponding hole is usually formed in the latter. Or, having made a larger hole, insert a shank into it and fill the hole with epoxy resin.

If you formed the upper part of the handle from plates of blank plexiglass, but no traces of the handle attachment will be visible through it, why appearance it will only win.
For a long shank, you will have to make a round or slot-like hole in the handle. For the latter, a hole of the required depth is first drilled, and the appropriate shape is given to it using a hot rod or plate. Next, a ring is put on the protrusion, the outline of the handle is drawn on the workpiece, and all excess is removed using sandpaper. After grinding and polishing, epoxy resin is poured into the gap, the shank is inserted, the exposed glue is removed and the knife is left in vertical position for 5...6 hours (until the resin hardens).

You can buy materials for making knives

From the administrator: Unfortunately, I was never able to establish the authorship of this material. There is an assumption that this is a scan of some book from Soviet times.

The resource has quite detailed reviews about this plastic, which can be softened simply by boiling water.



But I noticed a long time ago that no one reads old reviews.
Therefore, I will simply show one of the applications, and also remind you of the existence of such unusual material as a polymorph.

Actually, I stocked up on polymorph during the Ali coupon rush. There is no point in giving links to those sellers from whom I bought them, since I selected prices at that time for a $2 coupon.
In the header I indicated the seller with the largest number orders. There may be better offers.
Polymorph lay for a long time and waited in the wings, and finally the opportunity presented itself.
I bought a rather expensive knife, it comes with special key for an axial screw in the form of a triangular rod.


In principle, you can insert it into a screwdriver with a collet clamp. But you won’t carry it with a knife, and besides, I only have one.


Therefore, for me it is more practical to make a handle for the key. And since it is supposed to be carried in a sheath with a knife, it has a flat handle.
We get a supply of polymorph. A bag of sachets. I took 50 gram bags with a coupon. Some arrived torn.


I looked around in search of a “bath” for the polymorph. The cover from the electronic scales fits.
I poured a pinch. The granules look like grains of rice.


He took out a technical bowl from the cabinet. I poured “boiling water” into it from a thermopot. Just in case, I prepared a “spatula” and a knife.


I poured the granules into the water.


Should become transparent. I wait and wait, progress is minimal.


Apparently the water from the thermopot is not hot enough, although I pressed the Reboil button.
I went to the kitchen and boiled the kettle. Refill. It's a completely different matter.


Apply half the mass to the rod.


Next, I sculpted a flat handle directly with my bare hands.


Trimmed off the excess with a knife.


I dipped it in boiling water again and smoothed out the fingerprints a little and sharp corners. It turned out unsightly. Alternatively, the handle could be cast from epoxy or hot glue, but it would probably look even worse. And here it’s easy to correct the result.


I threw the scraps back into the boiling water. They have softened and become transparent and can be reused.


I molded them into a flat lump. This is what frozen plastic looks like.


It's time to put the key to the test.


The handle turned out to be quite strong. We managed to unscrew the axial one without any problems (and then tighten it tightly too).


This concludes my review. In fact, this plastic has many uses. In addition, it can be painted. I advise you to read the reviews, links to which I provided at the beginning.
The blue knife will be reviewed next week. I was pleasantly impressed with the build quality and steel.
Best wishes. Add to favorites Liked +94 +191