Manufacturing of concrete countertops. Kitchen countertop made of concrete - DIY production and restoration. Concrete bathroom countertop

In order to buy a kitchen countertop that will fully meet your needs in terms of aesthetics and functionality, you need to prepare a significant amount of money. It is much more economical to make it yourself, especially since it is completely possible to do it at home. You can implement your idea with the help of concrete, due to the availability of the material and the relative ease of working with it.

How to make a concrete countertop with your own hands? Understanding the basic manufacturing technologies and knowing the instructions for concreting, you can not only make a new surface in the kitchen, but also restore the old one, which makes it possible to save even more money.

Development of a tabletop drawing

First of all, you should decide how your table will look and what its dimensions will be. When making your own kitchen countertop, the edges of the plane must be clearly adjacent to the walls.

Making a clear drawing of a concrete countertop is the main step of the work, since the quality of the finished product will depend on its development. During the production of the drawing it is necessary calculate the creation of a tabletop from parts. The weight of the finished product in its entirety is large, therefore, dividing it into parts during production makes it easier to move and process them, and in addition, will protect them from cracks.

When making the frame of a concrete tabletop with your own hands, it is necessary to calculate the strengthening of its main part with transverse boards, and in addition its connection in separate parts with the tabletop. Wooden boards are used for the frame. If desired, you can use finished cabinets with drawers. It all depends on the imagination of the home specialist.

Materials and tools for work

Calculating the required number of substances, from which the kitchen countertop will be made, add a little so that there is a reserve.

The following materials are required for the countertop:

• cement not lower than grade M500;
• river sand;
• water;
• plasticizer

To make a cement base, you need to build formwork - a form to fill. Smooth, strong materials are selected for it and made according to technology.

You will also need:

Creation of formwork and preparation of concrete solution

We lay a sheet of plywood or chipboard onto a smooth plane, after which we transfer the previously organized drawing using a ruler and pencil. On each line we place a wooden beam 50x30 millimeters, so that the resulting thickness of our tabletop is 50 millimeters. It is this parameter that is suitable for a concrete product: reducing the thickness makes the structure fragile, increasing it makes it very heavy.

The fastening of the formwork walls must be quite reliable in order to withstand the load generated by the concrete during its curing. It is more correct to connect the joints of two walls using corners or long screws (from 60 millimeters). The location in front of the sink depends on the type and size of the plumbing fixture.

There are 2 types of sinks:

1. Built-in.
2. Invoices.

The 2nd type has a horizontal side approximately 30 millimeters wide, which must be taken into account when drawing up the drawing. If you have decided to produce The kitchen countertop is made of concrete; in this case, it is more correct to use an overhead sink. Firstly, built-in modifications have a landing side, which is not so easy to do. Secondly, the presence of the side makes it possible to allow for slight inaccuracy when forming the hole for the sink. In addition, you should definitely calculate the passage for the mixer. For this, it is allowed to use a plastic pipe with a diameter of 35 mm.

After preparing the mold with your own hands you can mix the solution. First of all, mix 1 part cement and 3 parts sand. Next, a plasticizer and water are added to the purchased composition. The prepared composition should be in the form of a paste.

To obtain colored concrete or a marble countertop, you need to add a special coloring pigment or special chips to it. If measured coloring is needed, then the pigment is added to the dry mixture, and to obtain the characteristic granite stains, the pigment is diluted with water and added to the prepared concrete composition.

Before proceeding to pouring the concrete solution, the form is placed in an exactly horizontal position, controlling the horizontality with a level. Prepared, thoroughly mixed composition, carefully pour into the prepared form several times. The surface of the mold for a concrete countertop is covered with film and kept for at least 10 days. Next, the film is removed and the mold is disassembled into parts. Subsequent processing of the product can be carried out after a week. During this period, the concrete blank, created with your own hands, will completely dry out.

Sanding and polishing the product

The grinding process takes place in several steps. First, use a coarse grinding disc, working all the edges of the workpiece with it. However, more attention is paid to the outside, which was previously at the bottom of the tabletop mold.

Grinding the surface of the table top is carried out in the following way:

The final step in making a tabletop with your own hands is polishing the product. When polishing, grinding discs with an abrasiveness of 400 to 1500 units are used alternately. The surface is polished slowly and carefully; while working, the polishing layers should be continuously wetted.

After finishing the polishing process the plane of the tabletop created with your own hands looks smooth and shining. At first glance it will be difficult to distinguish it from natural stone. The final step of the work is to treat the surface to protect it from contamination with a special sealant and install the finished countertop in a place specialized for it.

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The marble patterns are mesmerizing. But marble is soft, so it is rare in the kitchen. Hard granite, but difficult to process. Concrete is an artificial stone, it is lighter, more varied in color and pattern. A tabletop made of acrylic or epoxy conglomerate would compensate for the shortcomings of stone slabs, if not for the price. Casting it yourself from concrete, feeling like a sculptor – isn’t that an idea? Having immersed yourself in technological tricks, it turns out that concrete does not hide any special difficulties.

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Features of concrete in the manufacture of kitchen furniture

Required properties of furniture concrete:

• does not crack at low thickness, that is, it has sufficient viscosity,
• does not create an extremely high load on furniture supports,
• absorbs minimal heat
• the slab must be highly decorative, fit into the interior,
• can be ground and polished, and therefore filling granules are selected with a hardness identical to concrete,
• the mass is created with a homogeneous consistency, but thick, plastic - in such a way that the mold can be filled manually, without pouring (the construction term “casting” used here is not entirely correct),
• the result is a durable slab up to 40 mm thick, this is the main requirement.

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The listed properties are achieved by adding washed quartz sand, marble chips, plasticizers, broken glass, and stable (dry/pasty) dyes to cement (grade no lower than 400).

Interesting: white grout for tile joints is white cement M500, which has all the properties of a molding material.

The chaotic mosaic is interesting. Pieces of polished onyx and marble are placed at the very bottom of the mold, the gaps are filled with a mixture of sand, cement, and crumbs. The fragments in the lower part should not be polished - for bonding. The thinner the mosaic elements, the stronger the monolith.

Design and drawing creation

A product that is longer than 4 m must be reinforced. Depending on the method of reinforcement, concrete countertops are divided into:

• with chipboard filling,
• reinforced with metal,
• fiberglass.

The reinforcement methods are as follows:

1. From channels and corners, triangular brackets up to 60 cm are welded (the width can be greater), they are fastened in increments of 0.5 m to the wall using dowels. This provides access to the floor that has not yet been equipped. The level from the concrete floor screed is h=25 (floor) +850 (kitchen cabinets) - 30 - 30 = 815 (mm), the first 30 mm is the thickness of the concrete countertop, the second 30 mm is the moisture-resistant plywood base. The wall is tapped until a groove is formed. The groove is filled with strips of foam plastic (the plate will “play” in size as it heats up and then cools down). The side of the tabletop is mounted on a plywood sheet. Poured. Replacement of plywood - two sheets of fiberboard fastened together.

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1. A reinforcing welded grid made of metal rod is placed in the pouring tray between the layers of concrete, having previously treated the insert structure with an anti-corrosion compound. The rods do not reach the contour of the slab by 5 cm.

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1. With a total tabletop height of 35 mm, the first layer of fiberglass is laid after pouring 15 mm of concrete, the second - after 20 mm, by pressing. The third layer is applied on top.

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But the most advanced reinforcement is considered to be chipboard filling: with it, the tabletop weighs less, the slab can be drilled, and it becomes possible to reduce the thickness and reduce the cost. An important point is that the fiberboard sheet itself is used again as an insert after the template is made. Paradoxically, the combination of fiberboard with concrete must be prevented (the stretch coefficient of the materials is different). The recessed sheet serves as a substrate; even before contact with cement, it is impregnated with drying oil.

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The “sandwich” of both layers is safer to install and transport. To prevent the fiberboard from falling out of its socket, it is wrapped with tape, the last stage is glued with assembly glue.

Combining different reinforcement methods is always acceptable. Welded contours are reinforced around large holes. It is important to prepare the reinforcing inserts in advance because the casting process lasts only 50 minutes. After the first setting, the concrete cannot be moved or moved: the structure will be damaged. Complete hardening occurs after 2 weeks.

Drawing, template

When working with a plan, you need to decide where the hob will be and where the sink will be. It is important to use the capabilities of the cast countertop to the maximum: the arbitrary configuration allows you to place the sink in the protruding “crest” of the wave; the hob can stand across, rather than along, the wall. Perhaps we need to abandon the semi-circular edge of the table and give the edges some kind of avant-garde shape.

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While being original, they remember the modularity of the cabinets and upper cabinets. Having measured the wall, they look for options in a grid with a step of 20, 30 cm (scale 1:10), fitting in the hob, oven, hood, and taking into account that all the furniture will be covered with the same type of doors, flanges - it should look complete, rhythmic.

Using two strips of fiberboard, the size of each specific angle is determined in place, and the sheets are fastened with a glue gun. Then they bring the sheet to the wall, mark future slots on the fiberboard, protrusions for niches, wall turns, sink contours, electric stove, etc. The starting/ending reference points are not set on the plaster - at a distance of 18 mm from the corners (the thickness of the ceramic apron). You also need to take into account that the real angles of the rooms differ from 90 degrees.

Experiments with color

• Determining whether the countertop should be light or dark, maybe gray?
• Reddish, beige, yellowish or with a cool tint.
• The emerging inclusions are dark on white. Then from what? Same for the opposite effect.

Cut off the milk carton, mix the sample, adding broken brown, green, transparent glass, mica, amber along with dye. The result is corrected.

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Regardless of additives, the base of concrete is classic:

• for casting – cement + river (preferably quartz) sand, ratio 1:4;
• for modeling – ratio 1:3.

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Water is added gradually. The thickness of the first solution is oily. The thickness of the second is plasticine. The mold is poured first. The second is mixed for frame concrete.

During sample creation, the ratio of ingredients is recorded. The main components are ordinary. To improve the plasticity of the mass, it is recommended to add 150 g of washing powder (solution) to 25 kg of cement. A universal concrete plasticizer is commercially available that improves viscosity and plasticity.

Preparing the form

A chipboard is placed on a durable table, which exceeds the contours of the product by 20 cm. The surface is covered with PVC, a sheet of thickness. 2 mm (options: polystyrene, fiberboard). Lay out a side lubricated with silicone using strips of chipboard (planed beams) on the drawn contours, fasten it with self-tapping screws, clamping it so that the silicone extends beyond the gap. The excess is washed off. To form a facet, a hose with a diameter of 1 cm is fixed at the junction of the substrate and the side, filling the gap between the hose and flat surfaces with window putty.

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You can set the facet configuration yourself. To do this, the wooden plank is thinned at the edge “under the shoulder blade”, the profile is cut with a jigsaw. Made from hardwood, water-repellent properties are obtained from impregnation with sunflower oil. Using this type of abacus, window putty is distributed using broaches.

To prevent the side from moving away from the perpendicular, it is reinforced with stiffening ribs made of pieces of plywood or chipboard.

The circles are laid out with thick plastic, also fastened to the “ribs”, drilled “into the countersunk”. Sharp bends are made from strips of thick plastic of the same height as the side, heated to 160 degrees. The work is carried out while protecting hands with thermal gloves. A tungsten filament coil behind a metal box, covered by an even larger box – a simplified heater design. Plastics chosen are refractory.

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Places of pipe inlets and cutouts are covered with plastic plugs from shampoos, from old basins, polypropylene pipes, etc., secured with an adhesive gun. The sides, checked for level, are sprayed with liquid wax (soap water, as an option) from a household sprayer. Dried surfaces are protected from sticking to concrete 2–3 times.

Filling the table

The concrete mixer is filled with cement - 60% of the volume, sand - 10%, solid fractions - 29.5%. Water is only 0.5%. Check the viscosity, transfer by hand or by pouring from buckets. The moving concrete is spread with a trowel. The plasticine is trampled down with palms and small blocks of wood. Level along the top edge with a block (or a “knife” type construction level). Having leveled, cover without gaps with plastic film.

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The thick mass (for “molded” tables) is laid by a team of manufacturers: in 50 minutes you need to have time to lay it out and compact it.

Laying decorative elements and inserting fastening elements

The location of the recesses for the dowels and metal corners, if required, are established in advance and marked on the template. Then the template is attached to a wooden frame that coincides with the contour edge. The template sheet is drilled (cut) at the marks.

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The recesses for the dowels are formed by the dowels themselves, and the corners are welded onto pieces of reinforcing mesh. Moving the corners along the unfrozen mass, they find a match with the template and pour it on top.

Pre-cast molded brackets with protruding reinforcement are welded to the reinforcing mesh. Inserts protruding beyond the tabletop are leveled with squares and a level according to the marks indicated on the template.

Grinding, polishing

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After 2 weeks, the tabletop is opened, wetted several times, and dried to ensure the completion of the chemical processes. The dry slab is sanded first from below. Then they turn it over, wet it, dry it and polish it with a P 80 grit sander. Increase the grit size by 50 values ​​and continue sanding until a “mirror” surface is obtained. Finish the process with P 500 sandpaper and add water. The grinder must have guaranteed moisture protection. In hard-to-reach places, use a round stick with a piece of sandpaper attached to it, or a wooden block.

Restoration of an old concrete countertop

Concrete primer is applied to the old concrete countertop and dried. Distribute with a spatula the same composition as the previous one. Use a knife, awl, or trowel to fill the cracks. The dried surface is sanded, giving it water-repellent properties with liquid wax, polishing wooden surfaces (like Pronto).

Video: how to make a concrete countertop, kitchen sink with your own hands - instructions

Above we looked at how to make a countertop from concrete, below are instructions for making a sink with your own hands.

Wide planes are comfortable and visually expand the space. Arranging a kitchen with ordinary rectangular countertops can be achieved by cutting chipboard and MDF boards. Is it worth bothering with the casting process if only rectangular shapes are planned? Also: in a small kitchen it is impossible to appreciate a spectacular wavy line. You need at least 4-5 meters of free wall.

Jamie Gaokas's project began with the purchase of a book about how kitchen utensils are made. DIY concrete countertop. At first, the master made them for himself, then for friends, and then started his own business. The master class is conducted by Jamie himself.

First of all, the master asks you to be patient, since approximately a month passes from the start of production to complete installation. During this time, you can make a complete renovation of the kitchen.

After measuring the working surface, templates are made. Concrete is poured into the trays, which will soon become the tabletop. The cut inlays are inserted into the selected places.

To make a sink, plywood is used, from which the shape is knocked down. Solid insulating foam is needed to form the recess.

After low tide, the concrete remains in the tray for two weeks. A high-quality countertop with a sink looks beautiful, as in this photo.

Polish the tabletop using a grinding machine with a diamond wheel.

The last stage of manufacturing is filling the joints with silicone. This makes them waterproof. Afterwards, the surface is polished with a paste of wax and mineral oil to create an additional protective layer. The procedure is recommended to be carried out once or twice a year.

Pieces of glass, porcelain, metal and everything that supports the original interior design and will make an impression should be chosen carefully, as it will remain there forever.

Owner's personal inlay

This horseshoe belonged to a horse that the client loved very much. Pieces of glass and gravel fit into the overall picture. Other customers choose coins or even fragments of mechanisms.

The decoration can be incorporated into the profile of the tabletop.

The board is removed to discard nut shells and other debris that should not end up in the sink. The profile reveals nice blue inserts.

The gray material harmonizes perfectly with the brownish pieces of glass.

Bluish-green shades look inspiring. Pigmentation of the material is not easy, but the result is excellent.

Gaokas artist. He has degrees in art and art history. This is felt in the master’s products, creating a special atmosphere in the space of the house.

Almost every housewife dreams of a kitchen interior that is both functional and cozy. An important element of any kitchen is the countertop. It is made from a wide variety of materials, the most popular of which is concrete. You can make the product yourself, without involving other specialists. A concrete countertop has numerous advantages.

Basic moments

The technology for manufacturing concrete products is very popular in private construction. A horizontal work surface made of concrete can be described as a stone of artificial origin, obtained by molding and hardening the mixture, consisting of the following components:

• high quality cement (acts as a binder);
• aggregates of various sizes, selected according to color;
• low salt liquid;
• special additives that improve the quality of concrete.

For those who are planning to make a concrete countertop with their own hands, it is important to consider several important points. Operation of the product involves a large shock load on it, for example, during chopping of a meat carcass with cartilage, that is, reliable reinforcement is necessary.

When choosing a sink and hob, you should give preference to the overhead type. This design does not require special precision in the dimensions of the opening, while the installation side has sufficient width. Possible flaws will be hidden, and the product will receive a reliable fastening. As for mortise structures, their installation requires special equipment. Such work is carried out exclusively in a workshop.

A concrete countertop weighs a lot, so its base must be quite strong. To reduce weight, you should try to shorten the width without sacrificing strength. An important step is grinding, which is accompanied by a large amount of dust.

The tabletop is a decorative element, so it is important to think about its color design. If you use gray cement, the product will turn out to be of a similar color. Fortunately, today there is a wide variety of colors available to add to the mix, so you can choose the shade that suits you best.

Preparatory stage

Preparation is a mandatory step. It is necessary to purchase the necessary materials and tools. First of all, prepare the components from which the concrete solution is prepared:

• sand;
• cement;
• crushed stone;
• water.

To make the horizontal surface more durable, you need to lay a metal reinforcing frame in the solution. Here you cannot do without steel rods with a diameter of 10-12 mm. To make a mesh out of them, you will need knitting wire. The frame is attached using self-tapping screws.

The tabletop is poured into formwork made from several different materials. The main thing is a sheet of moisture-resistant plywood, the thickness of which should be from 12 mm. As an alternative, laminated chipboard is suitable. It is important to take high-strength materials; even a slight curvature will affect the countertop.

Don't forget about the hole for the mixer. To make it, you will need a plastic pipe 50 mm long and 35 mm in diameter. The standard installation pipe of the mixer has a diameter of 35 mm.

Creating a sketch and preparing formwork

You can make a drawing both before and after the preparatory stage. You need to accurately measure the place where the furniture and countertop will be located. If you plan to place them in the corner of the room, it is important to align the angle at 90 degrees. This will not only make the repairs better, but also simplify the installation of cabinets, placing them exactly along the wall planes.

The installation boundaries of the product are measured with a tape measure. The kitchen work area often has a curved shape. In this case, the best solution would be to divide the element into parts, when each individual part has its own tabletop. At the same time, the single formwork is divided into elements. It is important that the boundaries of the plots are transverse. They must match the walls of the cabinets. This will prevent the occurrence of cracks. A heavy, hand-made monolithic countertop is more difficult to install.

To prepare the formwork, you will need to place moisture-resistant plywood on a convenient horizontal surface, such as a table. Dimensions from the drawing are copied onto the sheet. 50x30 mm boards are placed along the edges; they are needed to determine the height of the product (50 mm). This is the most suitable size. If it is increased, the mass of the product will increase, and if it is decreased, the strength will deteriorate, which in no case should be allowed.

The walls must be securely fixed, because the concrete solution will put pressure on them. You can use metal corners or use 50x50 mm bars, securing them at the corners of the product. If the board is long, it is advisable to fix another 2-3 bars in the middle of the structure.

Hole for sink and reinforcing frame

The sink can be built-in or overhead, the latter has a horizontal edge around the perimeter. If the invoice type is installed, the product is turned over, placed on a plywood sheet, and an outline is made along the side. Next, you need to determine the width of the side, let’s say it is 3 cm, then a similar shape is placed inside at a distance of 2.5 cm.

If you plan to have a built-in sink, you need to draw an outline along the edge of the sink. Then 50x50 mm boards are placed along the lines; they need to be attached to the plywood using self-tapping screws.

The built-in sink has a seating chamfer, which is quite difficult to make. Thus, the manufacture of a concrete countertop involves the use of an overlay structure. You just need to fix the pipe at the location where the mixer is installed.

The wire frame is a mesh, the cells of which have a size of 25x25 mm. At the same time, it should be at a distance of 25 mm from the edges of the formwork and plywood. Therefore, you need to cut the wire taking into account such nuances. Polyethylene is placed in the formwork, its edges are inserted into the boards. It is important that the plastic film does not have folds and lies flat.

The frame is assembled in formwork or separately. If installation is required at a height of 25 mm, then It's best to do this using self-tapping screws. There is another installation option. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the plywood sheet along the perimeter of the formwork every 25 mm. A level and ruler allow you to level the height of the caps. Next, the pieces of wire are attached to the screws. At the intersection points, a knitting wire is used.

Before pouring concrete countertops, you need to process the joints. It is important to ensure that the sealant fills the cracks and gaps. When it is necessary to obtain rounded corners, a pipe is placed in the place where two boards join. After this, the sealant is applied.

Concrete can be poured completely filling the formwork or in layers. Having chosen the first method, you need to mix cement, sand and coarse aggregate in a ratio of 1:2:2. It is advisable to use marble chips as a filler. 0.5 part of the liquid is also taken. First, mix water and cement, then add the remaining ingredients. It is necessary to mix the solution very thoroughly.

A concrete countertop can have a very original look. It is important to correctly design its front side. Let's say you can lay it on polyethylene:

• glass fragments;
• coins;
• beads;
• cable cores;
• wire.

Fiberglass looks great. Such decor must be secured with glue to prevent displacement during pouring. When creating the first layer, a solution of fine sand is used, which does not include any large fillers. For example, such as crushed stone or gravel. It is better to take a little less liquid than is suggested in the classic proportion, this will prevent the formation of pores. Lack of water is also unacceptable. This may cause cracks to appear.

If you are not sure that the solution will work, it is better to use a purchased mixture. The packaging of this composition usually contains instructions, in which you can find information about how much water is added. It is better to mix at low speed. Concrete solution should be poured to a third or half of the total height. There is no need to wait for it to dry.

After 30 minutes you can start pouring the main load-bearing layer. In this case, the mixture can be prepared according to the traditional recipe, which involves adding expanded clay instead of crushed stone and gravel to give the structure lightness. After pouring, the concrete horizontal surface is covered with a film, which is removed after 24 hours.

Pieces of damp cloth are placed on top; you can use a wet towel. This helps slow down the hardening process and improves strength.

The formwork can be dismantled within two days, but experts still recommend waiting a few more days. If you encounter any difficulty in removing the mold, you should carefully pry off its edge with a spatula. You can also use a brick as a support.

If the concrete product does not require a decorative layer, the front side is carefully sanded. The sanding procedure removes remaining irregularities and removes excess glue. You should choose clothes for work that you won’t mind ruining. It is better not to use a grinder for such purposes. It is preferable to opt for an angle grinder. This device is very convenient for working with horizontal surfaces. You will also need to purchase several grinding wheels.

First they work with a coarse-grained polishing pad, then use a fine-grained one. It is preferable to polish with a felt wheel. If it is necessary to trim the product, use a grinder with diamond blades. When sanding, be sure to use safety glasses and a respirator, as well as a vacuum cleaner.

If the surface cannot be polished, it must be primed and covered with a special varnish. It is preferable to use a roller. It is important to ensure that the working element is wet. There is no need to rush; movements should be careful and uniform.

If minor depressions appear, the situation can be corrected with a special sealing mixture having an acrylic base. This composition fills all remaining holes and voids. If necessary, you can cover the surface with an additional layer. At the end, the tabletop is rubbed with a wax composition. After waiting for it to harden, wipe the surface with a clean rag.

When making a concrete countertop, some craftsmen do not create a template, skipping this important stage, although it is of great importance and should never be neglected. Creating a sketch allows you to achieve ideal product parameters. Cardboard scraps connected with glue may well be used as a template. If a sink is embedded into the countertop, this point should definitely be taken into account before pouring. This will avoid cutting out the material.

Making a beautiful work surface for the kitchen with your own hands is not easy, but it can be done if you follow the step-by-step instructions and study all the nuances of the process. The described technology can also be used for the manufacture of kitchen units.

Something new is constantly appearing in the creation of interior design, and the latest innovation is the elements of concrete present in various furniture, this is especially true in the kitchen or in the country house. However, you should not limit yourself only to the kitchen set; a coffee table in the living room with a concrete tabletop will look very original and interesting.

And it’s quite easy to make such a tabletop with your own hands, and you don’t need a lot of experience to create it; almost anyone can make it, the main thing is the desire.

1. These countertops are simply irreplaceable. for country furniture: I don’t get wet, they don’t spoil!
2. , just cover a worn-out table with it and you will get a super modern thing.
3. For the kitchen - they do not deteriorate and are very durable!

Tools

In order to make a coffee table with a rectangular concrete top, we will need:

• Wooden boards.
• Wire mesh for strengthening concrete.
• A piece of 1/2-inch chipboard or plywood to make the desired shape.
• Drywall.
• Screws.
• Pneumatic nailer to attach the sides to the bottom panel.
• Large plastic container for mixing cement.

Instructions for making a tabletop

Step 1: Making a box

Regardless of the size or shape of the countertop, the wire mesh should be two inches smaller in width and height than the chipboard or plywood panels.

We make a box of the shape and size we need from panels and gypsum board. Once the workpiece is completely ready, you can begin mixing the concrete.

Step 2: Pour the concrete

1. Mix the cement in a plastic container; for this you can use an ordinary shovel, which you need to thoroughly mix the mixture.
2. After this, carefully pour the concrete into the mold up to halfway, distributing it in the corners.
3. Cover wire mesh mixture, and then fill the mold to the top so that the mixture protrudes slightly from the top. This is done to make it easier to level the surface and make it smooth; for this purpose it is best to use a spatula.

TIP: After this, you need to leave the mold for several days for the cement to dry completely.

Step 3: Sanding

Then you need to remove mold and sand from the surface. 120-grit sandpaper works well to smooth the countertop.

Then you need to wipe the surface well with a sponge, roller brush or soft cloth.

If you want to not cover the surface of the coffee table with anything, then it is best treat the countertop with concrete sealant, then it will look very beautiful and will be more practical.

Step 4: attach the tabletop to the legs

1. Once the top of the coffee table is completely ready, you can use absolutely any base.
2. A very beautiful and practical option would be this table with wooden legs on wheels, making it easy to move.
3. We attach the tabletop to the legs using liquid nails or silicone glue.

Such an original concrete table will become a real decoration of home decor and will make the interior irresistible.

Ideas and photos of countertops and tables made of concrete

With a flowerbed in the middle

For a dacha, a great option is to leave a trench when pouring concrete where you can plant flowers. Looks very amazing.

How to lighten the design

1. The ideal option and great idea is to leave a hole in the middle and make a glass tab. To do this, you need to cut out a trench for the glass tab.
2. Also install a concrete countertop on legs with wheels- This is especially appropriate for coffee tables that often have to be moved.