From a mini electric engine with your own hands. A real one-cylinder electric motor with your own hands. Current breaker manufacturing

Let's consider individual aspects of design. We will not promise the production of a perpetual motion machine, similar to the type of creation attributed to Tesla, but the story is expected to be interesting. We won’t bother readers with paper clips and batteries; we suggest we talk about how to adapt a ready-made motor for your own purposes. It is known that there are a lot of structures, all of them are used, but modern literature basic fundamentals leaves behind the stern. The authors studied a textbook from the last century, learning how to make an electric motor with their own hands. Now we invite you to plunge into the knowledge that forms the basis of a specialist.

Why are commutator motors often used in everyday life?

If we take the 220V phase, the principle of operation of the electric motor on the collector allows us to produce devices 2-3 times less massive than when using an asynchronous design. This is important in the manufacture of devices: hand blenders, mixers, meat grinders. Among other things, it is difficult to accelerate an asynchronous motor above 3000 rpm; for commutator motors there is no such limitation. What makes the devices the only ones suitable for implementing designs of centrifugal juicers, not to mention vacuum cleaners, where the speed is often no lower.

The question of how to make an electric motor speed controller disappears. The problem was solved long ago by cutting off part of the supply voltage sinusoid cycle. This is possible, because it makes no difference to the commutator motor whether it is powered by alternating or direct current. In the first case, the characteristics drop, but the phenomenon is tolerated for the reason obvious benefits. The commutator type electric motor operates and washing machine, and in the dishwasher. Although the speeds are very different.

It's easy to reverse too. To do this, the polarity of the voltage on one winding changes (if both are touched, the direction of rotation will remain the same). Another problem is how to make an engine with a similar amount components. It is unlikely that you will be able to make the collector yourself, but rewinding it and selecting the stator is quite possible. Note that the rotation speed depends on the number of rotor sections (similar to the amplitude of the supply voltage). But the stator has only a couple of poles.

Finally, when using the specified design, it is possible to create a universal device. The engine runs without difficulty both from alternating and from direct current. They simply make a tap on the winding; when switched on, the entire turns are used from the rectified voltage, and when the voltage is sinusoidal, only a part is used. This allows you to save nominal parameters. Making a primitive commutator-type electric motor does not look like a simple task, but you will be able to completely adapt the parameters to your own needs.

Features of operation of commutator motors

In a brushed motor there are not too many poles on the stator. To be more precise, there are only two - northern and southern. Magnetic field versus asynchronous motors It doesn't rotate here. Instead, the position of the poles on the rotor changes. This state of affairs is ensured by the fact that the brushes gradually move along the sections of the copper drum. Special winding of the coils ensures proper distribution. The poles seem to slide around the rotor, pushing it in the desired direction.

To ensure reverse mode, it is enough to change the polarity of the power supply of any winding. The rotor in this case is called the armature, and the stator is called the exciter. These circuits can be connected in parallel to each other or in series. And then the characteristics of the device will begin to change significantly. This is described by mechanical characteristics, take a look at the attached drawing to visualize what is claimed. Here are conditionally shown graphs for two cases:

1. When the exciter (stator) and armature (rotor) of a commutator motor are powered in parallel with its direct current mechanical characteristics almost horizontal. This means that when the load on the shaft changes, the rated shaft speed is maintained. This is used on processing machines, where changes in speed do not have the best effect on quality. As a result, the part rotates when it is touched by the cutter, as quickly as at the start. If the hindering moment increases too much, the movement stalls. The engine stops. Summary: if you want to use a motor from a vacuum cleaner to create a metalworking (lathe) machine, it is proposed to connect the windings in parallel, because in household appliances another type of inclusion dominates. Moreover, the situation is understandable. When the windings are powered in parallel with alternating current, too much inductive reactance is formed. This technique should be used with caution.
2. When the rotor and stator are powered in series, the commutator motor has a wonderful property - high torque at the start. This quality is actively used for moving trams, trolleybuses and, probably, electric trains. The main thing is that when the load increases, the speed does not drop. If you start a commutator motor in this mode at Idling, the shaft rotation speed will increase immensely. If the power is low - tens of W - there is no need to worry: the friction force of bearings and brushes, an increase in induction currents and the phenomenon of magnetization reversal of the core will together slow down the growth at a specific value. In the case of industrial units or the mentioned vacuum cleaner, when its engine is removed from the housing, the increase in speed occurs like an avalanche. The centrifugal force turns out to be so great that the loads can break the anchor. Be careful when starting commutator motors with series excitation.

Commutator motors with parallel connection The stator and rotor windings are highly adjustable. By introducing a rheostat into the exciter circuit, it is possible to significantly increase the speed. And if you attach one to the armature branch, the rotation, on the contrary, will slow down. This is widely used in technology to achieve the desired characteristics.

The design of a commutator motor and its connection with losses

When designing commutator motors, considerations regarding losses are taken into account. There are three types:

Typically, when powering a commutator motor with alternating current, the windings are connected in series. Otherwise, too much inductive reactance results.

To the above, we add that when a commutator motor is powered by alternating current, the inductive reactance of the windings comes into play. Therefore, at the same effective voltage, the speed will decrease. The stator poles and housing are protected from magnetic losses. The necessity of this can be easily verified by simple experience: Power a low-power brushed motor from a battery. His body will remain cold. But if you now apply alternating current with the same current value (according to the tester’s readings), the picture will change. Now the housing of the commutator motor will begin to heat up.

Therefore, they even try to assemble the casing from sheets of electrical steel, riveting or gluing using BF-2 and analogues. Finally, let us supplement what has been said with the following statement: the sheets are assembled along a cross section. Often the stator is assembled according to the sketch shown in the figure. In this case, the coil is wound separately according to a template, then insulated and put back on, simplifying assembly. As for the methods, it is easier to cut steel on a plasma machine and not think about the cost of the event.

Easier to find (at a landfill, in a garage) already ready-made form for assembly. Then wind coils of copper wire with varnish insulation. Obviously the diameter is selected larger. First, the finished coil is pulled onto the first protrusion of the core, then onto the second. Press the wire so that at the ends there remains a small air gap. It is believed that this is not critical. To hold, at the two outer plates sharp corners are cut off, the remaining core is bent outward, squeezing the ends of the coil. This will help assemble the engine to factory standards.

Often (especially in blenders) there is an open stator core. It doesn't distort the shape magnetic field. Since there is only one pole, you can’t expect much power. The shape of the core resembles the letter P; a rotor rotates between the legs of the letter in a magnetic field. Circular slots are made for the device in the right places. It is not difficult to assemble such a stator yourself from an old transformer. This is easier than making an electric motor from scratch.

The core at the winding site is insulated with a steel sleeve, and on the sides - with dielectric flanges cut from any suitable plastic.

Today, electric vehicles are presented by marketers as a carrier of the most advanced technologies in the automotive industry. And many are sure that an electric car can be either expensive, like the Nissan Leaf or Mitsubishi i-MiEV, or very expensive, like a Tesla. However, members of the friendly community of DIY electric car enthusiasts know that this is not true! In its simplest man-made version, a “battery-powered machine” is much cheaper than its industrial counterparts and does not require innovative technologies and materials. That’s why quite a few elementary electric vehicles are driving next to us on the roads under the guise of regular gasoline models – we just don’t know about it!

“Electric car version 1.0” – car basic level, which can be done in six months in a garage by virtually any handy man who knows how to repair a car and has basic knowledge in electrical engineering. The purpose of this article, of course, is not to provide the reader with clear instructions for use, but to give, as it is fashionable to say today, a “road map” for understanding that an electric car is easy! One of the most authoritative Russian electric car builders, Igor Korkhov, the administrator of the largest thematic forum electrotransport.ru, who has successfully built completed designs of his own electric vehicles, told Kolesam about this. this moment driving a modernized Lada Ellada.

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Body

What does an electric car consist of? entry level, which is easy to build on a garage “slipway”? The body from the donor car with steering, suspension, transmission and brakes, a DC electric motor coupled with a standard manual transmission, a battery pack with a controller, an accelerator pedal from which the controller receives a signal and a number of auxiliary units, which can even be introduced into the design not immediately, but later - after the first test drives, which the soul of a garage engineer so eagerly awaits...

As a rule, a front-wheel drive car is used as a body donor so as not to lose energy to friction in the cardan crosspieces and the hypoid transmission of the rear axle. They try to find a lighter car, ideally up to 600–700 kilograms, although this is not always possible - most cars are excessively heavy from the point of view of building an electric car. At one time, Tavria was very popular among garage electric cars - the body was light and had excellent “rollability” - on a flat road you could literally push it with your finger! But almost all of Tavria, alas, have already rotted... Golfs of the first and second generation, Daihatsu Mira and similar small cars are popular. They try to increase the “rollability” by using special tires – the so-called “green” ones: narrow and allowing a pressure of 2.7 or more atmospheres to eliminate losses due to rubber deformation.

Engine

I saw how, on a car with a removed engine, they connected a powerful screwdriver to the input shaft of a manual transmission, brought control of its power button into the interior, and actually got an electric car in half an hour! Yes, it’s curious, yes, it goes no faster than five kilometers per hour, but, in essence, it does a good job of demonstrating the simplicity and efficiency of the “version 1.0” design! All this, of course, comes from the realm of “mechanics joking,” but the principle, in general, remains the same.

Igor Korkhov

The most common engines for entry-level homemade products were and still are traction motors DS-3.6 from Bulgarian electric warehouse forklifts of the Balkankar EB-687 type. These are series-excited motors powered by direct current with a voltage of 80 volts and a power of 3.6 kilowatts. This motor looks like a cylindrical barrel and weighs 66 kilograms. This is far from the best engine in terms of weight and efficiency, but it is easily accessible and popular among novice electric vehicle designers. You can purchase such an “engine” to the extent of your luck - someone will get it for thanks, someone will find it for 5-10 thousand rubles. In principle, this cost is justified - the motor is not fast, but it has excellent torque, can handle any hill even in third gear, is easy to install, and unpretentious.

Transmission

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In “Option 1.0” you will not find motor-wheels and other progressive electric vehicle “nanotechnologies”. It can be done the easiest way, and the easiest way is to merge the electric motor with the transmission already existing on the donor car - a manual gearbox with a final drive and differential, through front-wheel drive CV joints with hubs and front wheels.
- Actually, the clutch basket and disc, its drive (hydraulic or cable), and even the left pedal itself are removed - this excess weight, and we don't need them anymore. - says Igor Yuryevich, - True, we will still change gears - but rarely and without disconnecting the shafts of the motor and gearbox - simply sticking the gears in with the gearbox handle. The desired gear is engaged without a clutch quite calmly, both before starting to move and while driving: you let off the gas, move the gearshift handle, the synchronizers are activated - and we move on.

We use the third gear for driving around the city, the fourth – on a country road, the second – along gullies. The first one is never used at all; the torque on the wheels is such that they simply spin with a light touch of the accelerator!

To install an electric motor under the hood, you need two main “handmade” parts: an adapter plate and adapter sleeve, with the help of which the electric motor is connected to the “native” manual gearbox of the car. The plate connects the electric motor and the gearbox, and the bushing connects the motor shaft and the gearbox input shaft.

The slab is easily made with your own hands from thick sheet steel or aluminum - all you need is intermediate-level plumbing skills, a grinder and a drill.

The adapter bushing connecting the shafts of the electric motor and the gearbox is also easy to make with the help of Uncle Vasya the turner and welding - on one side the bushing should be aligned with the electric motor shaft, and on the other, a splined part cut from the clutch disc of the box with which we are welded is welded to it connect the electric motor.

Battery

The battery for electric cars is only lithium iron phosphate, there are no other options! Forget about starter lead batteries, which seem attractive to begin with, “to try,” immediately and forever - they are categorically unsuitable, just money down the drain. A few charges and discharges - and the batteries will be sent to the non-ferrous metal collection point! Traction lead batteries also do not last long, since given their mass, the capacity will always be insufficient, and this means an excessively large current consumption per battery. At such currents, the traction lead does not hold up either. So exclusively “lifers”, although it is not cheap.

At one time, many people went through lead – including me. Now there is no point in repeating such mistakes. My starter batteries started dying after a couple of months, I barely managed to sell them at half price before they lost capacity. Then at one time I used sealed batteries from the power supply of telecommunication systems (sources uninterruptible power supply cell towers) – enough for the season, began to grow internal resistance… So once lithium ferrum became widely available, everyone switched to it. The best specific gravity energy, the ability to give and receive large currents, durability, frost resistance. But prices are still high, and the battery is the most expensive component of an electric car - this is something that the DIYer needs to take into account...

Igor Korkhov

A simplified calculation of the parameters and cost of the battery looks like this: suppose that we need to dial a 100-volt battery - quite a lot of motors are designed for this voltage. The voltage of one “lifer can” is 3.3 volts: this means we need to connect 30 cans in series. But the second important parameter batteries - capacity. Since the “banks” are the same, the capacity of one = the capacity of the entire battery. "Jar" good quality costs approximately $1.5 per 1 ampere-hour, and an entry-level 30-amp-hour battery will provide a car weighing up to a ton with 25–30 kilometers of power reserve.

We count:

30 amp hours x $1.5 = $45 per can
$45 x 30 cans = $1350 for the entire battery

In general, the battery is not budgetary, and this is only a capacity suitable for the first experiments - in a good way, it needs to be at least doubled...

Electric vehicle batteries are most often charged using semi-homemade methods. chargers, made from cheap decommissioned power supplies that saturated backup batteries at base stations cellular communication- there they work together with 48-volt lead batteries. You need two such blocks - they are connected in series, internal adjustment allows you to raise the voltage of each to 64 volts and charge the batteries for most common electric motors used by EV DIYers.

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By the way, the standard 12-volt battery, as a rule, remains in its place - it is convenient to power various standard consumers from it - a sound signal, windshield wipers, power windows, “music”, light, etc. Later, as one of the first upgrades, it can be replaced with a DC/DC converter of three hundred watts, making 12 volts out of 100.

Other nodes

Actually, in addition to the motor, transmission and battery, the simplest electric car has a number of components – both necessary and optionally installed. Of course, an engine control controller is absolutely necessary. In the simplest version, it can be made independently using relatively inexpensive and widely available parts, and the throttle angle sensor from an injection VAZ will serve as the gas pedal sensor. You can buy a controller from domestic home-made manufacturers, order a factory one from China, or order a used brand unit from Curtis from eBay - the module will cost $250–300.

There are quite a few additional components that are not mandatory for a test (or even!) trip. For example, a stove from which the liquid radiator is thrown out and an electric heating element is installed instead. Or let's say Vacuum pump for brake booster. Because the engine internal combustion is absent on the car, the vacuum of the intake manifold, necessary for the operation of the vacuum brake booster, also disappears. Therefore, many do-it-yourselfers install VUT electric auxiliary pumps, borrowed from cars such as Volvo XC90, Ford Kuga, etc.

However, it all depends on the project - on a light electric car, not everyone even upgrades the brakes, since the role of the “vacuum brake” is partly performed by regenerative engine braking, and many cars from the factory did not have a vacuum booster in principle, braking quite well. Without it, for example, not only the well-known VAZ-Kopeyka was produced, but also Tavria, Oka in some years, and so on.

Prices and money

The donor machine, the electric motor, the controller - all this varies flexibly and here you can “tailor” it to the extent of your cunning and desires. You can buy a donor car for 100–150 thousand in good condition in terms of body, you can buy it for 50 thousand - but with the need for tinsmithing, welding, painting... You can buy an electric motor from an old Bulgarian forklift, or you can buy a used or new American motor designed specifically for electric vehicles . You can purchase an industrial engine traction control controller, or you can solder it yourself if you have the skills. The same goes for everything else except the battery. There’s nothing particularly easy to “tailor” here: the prices for new lithium-ferrum banks are approximately the same everywhere, the question is capacity. A good 80-100-volt battery for approximately one hundred kilometers will cost 4-5 thousand dollars in today's money. You can, of course, start with a low-capacity battery with the prospect of increasing it (after all, even a short first trip inspires and gives you the understanding that your work is not in vain!), but you need to understand that the small capacity needs to be increased as soon as possible, since its lack leads to an increase in the return current from each individual can up to dangerous shock values ​​that shorten their life... While you are going to waste time buying the second half, the first one will die...

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So is it profitable to build an electric car? Even an experienced do-it-yourselfer and, in fact, a guru of garage EV construction, Igor Korkhov, believes that the hobby comes first here, and one can only “deceive the system” very conditionally - this will border on self-deception... The fact is that the end result cannot be assessed purely by the cost of a kilometer traveled, as many people think, you have to take into account the comfort, functionality, safety of the car, and simply the feeling of what you own. For example, a new petrol Lada Granta - it costs from 360 thousand rubles, which approximately equals $5,500. The most budget electric car based on some early-generation VW Golf will cost the same amount in terms of components – plus the time spent on thematic forums and your own labor invested. As a result, on one side of the scale there is a domestic, albeit domestic, but smelling of new and problem-free car under warranty, and on the other there is a middle-aged and outwardly shabby “electric self-propelled gun” in the stage of endless completion, without the possibility of refueling on the way, at first (or even forever) without air conditioning, power brakes and the like.

Or, let’s say, the next level is Hyundai Solaris. New it costs from 600,000 rubles, which is about $9,200. A similar amount will have to be spent if you build an electric car on the basis of a more or less fresh foreign car body that looks decent from the outside and has a intact interior, purchasing a good American electric motor for this body, a reliable proprietary Curtis controller and a capacious battery. However, the result is, in general, almost the same as in the first case... Solaris has a trump card maximum speed and dynamics, the ability to replenish fuel everywhere, not just in personal garage, where there is an outlet, all the advantages of a new and reliable car with a lot of functional amenities, guarantees, etc. A home-made product, although more decent inside and out, remains a home-made product - a car with significant limitations in terms of range and refueling capabilities, an eternal construction set, a simulator for the hands and mind...

conclusions

From the point of view of the application of hands and mind for a person who loves cars and technology, building an electric car is certainly justified! This hobby is, of course, expensive, but everything can be learned in comparison - and, in comparison, not with oligarchic extremes like collecting Faberge testicles, but with quite common and widespread technical applied hobbies. Let's say, for a fishing enthusiast, an average inflatable boat with an outboard engine of a well-known brand will cost about ten times as much as at least two-thirds of a simple electric car...

A good quadcopter with a camera costs no less. Against this background, building an electric car doesn’t stand out at all – it’s a normal man’s pastime...

No less attractive to building an electric car “Version 1.0” is that the result is achievable for many, and not just a select few - you don’t have to be a “level 80 engineer” to connect the electric motor with the gearbox, lay out the power and control wiring and place it in the trunk batteries. In the simplest version of the design and with numerous tips from the responsive electric vehicle community on the Internet, the work will be pleasant and almost certainly successful.

However, prices have not fallen yet efficient batteries and inexpensive sets of traction motors and controllers have not spread, as happened with kits for electric bicycles, a garage-built electric car in terms of operating costs is unlikely to be a serious competitor to budget gasoline cars, and even more so to gasified cars... If you want to save money, invest in installing a propane gas equipment- easier and more profitable...

The photo was kindly provided by the American DIYer Bruce, who carefully documented all the stages of building his electric car at home based on the 1985 Suzuki Mighty Boy hatchback pickup truck.

Interested in the topic of building an electric car?

And today we’ll talk about how to make an engine from a battery, copper wire and a magnet. Such a mini electric motor can be used as a fake on the table of a home electrician. It's quite easy to assemble, so if you're interested this type classes, then we will provide detailed instructions with photos and video examples, so that assembling a simple motor is understandable and accessible to everyone!

Step 1 – Prepare materials

To make the simplest magnetic motor with your own hands, you will need the following available materials:

Having prepared everything necessary materials You can proceed to assembling a perpetual electric motor. Making a small electric motor at home is not difficult, as you will now see!

Step 2 – Assembling the homemade product

So, to make the instructions clear to you, it’s better to look at it step by step with pictures that will help you visually understand the principle of operation of a mini electric motor.

We immediately draw your attention to the fact that you can invent the design of a homemade small engine in your own way. For example, below we will provide you with several video lessons that may help you make your own version of the engine from a battery, copper wire and a magnet.

What to do if the homemade product does not work?

If suddenly you have assembled a perpetual electric motor with your own hands, but it does not rotate, do not rush to get upset. Most often, the reason for the motor not rotating is too long distance between the magnet and the coil. In this case, you just need to trim the legs a little yourself, on which the rotating part rests.

That's the whole technology for assembling a homemade magnetic electric motor at home. If you watched the video tutorials, you are probably convinced that you can make a motor from a battery, copper wire and a magnet with your own hands. different ways. We hope that the instructions were interesting and useful for you!

It will be useful to know:

To understand how to make an electric motor with your own hands, you need to remember how it works and how it works.

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If you follow the instructions step by step, it is not so difficult to make an electric motor yourself. The motor will serve for your projects.

The cost of manufacturing an electric motor will be minimal, since you can make an electric motor with your own hands using available materials.

First of all, you need to stock up on the necessary materials:

• bolts;
• bicycle spoke;
• nuts;
• electrical tape;
• copper wire;
• metal plate;
• super and hot glue;
• plywood;
• washers.

You can’t do without these tools:

• electric drills;
• stationery knife;
• pliers;
• grinding machine;
• hammer;
• scissors;
• soldering iron;
• tweezers;
• sewed

Manufacturing process

You need to start making an electric motor with your own hands by making five plates, in which you later need to drill a hole in the center using an electric drill and put it on an axle - a bicycle spoke.

Pressing the plates tightly against each other, secure their ends with electrical tape, cutting off the excess with a utility knife. If the axles are uneven, they need to be sharpened.

When electric current passes through the coil, the latter creates a magnetic field around itself, which is no different from the field of a conventional magnet, but disappears when the current is turned off. This property can be used to metal objects attract and release, turning the current on and off.

As an experiment, you can make a circuit consisting of a button and an electromagnet, which this button will help you turn on and off.

The circuit is powered by a 12V computer power supply. If an axis with plates is installed next to an electromagnet and the current is turned on, they will be attracted and one of their sides will turn towards the electromagnet.

If the current is first turned on and turned off at the moment when the plates are as close as possible to the electromagnet, then they will fly past it by inertia, making a revolution.

If you constantly guess the moment and turn on the current, they will rotate. In order to do this in right moment, a current breaker is required.

Current breaker manufacturing

Again you will need a small plate, which you need to secure to the axle, pressing it with pliers so that the fastening is secure. This video will help you understand what it should look like:

Video: How to make an electric motor

One of the contacts is connected to metal plate, and an axle is installed on top of it. Since the axle, plate and breaker are metal, current will flow through them. By touching the contact of the breaker, the circuit can be closed and opened, which will allow the electromagnet to be connected and disconnected at the right time.

The resulting rotating structure, made by hand, is called an armature in DC electric motors, and a stationary electromagnet interacting with the armature is called an inductor.

Anchor in engines alternating current is called a rotor, and the inductor is called a stator. The names are sometimes confused, but this is wrong.

Frame making

This must be done so that you do not hold the electric motor structure with your hands. The material for making the base is plywood.

DIY inductor

We will make two holes in the plywood for an M6 bolt 25 mm long, on which we will later place the electric motor coils. Screw nuts onto the bolts and cut out three parts to connect the bolts (supports).

Supports have two functions: the axis of the armature of the electric motor, made by yourself, will rest on them, the second - they will serve as a magnetic circuit that will connect the bolts. You need to make holes for them (by eye, since this does not require much precision). The plates are connected together and placed from below, pressing with bolts. By placing it on the coil bolts we get a kind of horseshoe magnet.

To secure in vertical position electric motor armature, you need to make a frame from sheet metal(bracket). We drill three holes in it: one along the diameter of the axis and two on the sides for screws (for fastening).

Making coils

To make them, you will need a strip of cardboard and thin paper (see dimensions in the drawing). Having removed the bolt from the base, we wrap a thick strip of 4-5 layers around it, securing it with 2 layers of electrical tape. The strip holds quite tightly. Carefully remove it to wind the wire.

After the wire is wound, we take out the paper from the inside with tweezers, cut off the excess layers so that the coil fits easily onto the bolt. We cut off the excess from the coil, taking into account the fact that there will still be cheeks at the top and bottom, which are necessary so that the wire does not slip during operation of the electric motor. In the same way, we make the second coil with our own hands and proceed to making the cheeks.

How to make cheeks with your own hands?

We place thick paper on the nut, and punch a hole on top with a bolt. It's easy to do. Then put the paper on the bolt, place a washer on top and cut it out, after tracing it with a pencil. It turns out to be similar in shape to a washer.

In total, you need to make 4 such parts to install on the bolt from above and below. We screw the nut onto the upper cheek, placing a metal washer and fix both cheeks with hot glue. The frame, which you made yourself, is ready.

Now all that remains is to wind varnished wire (500 turns) with a diameter of 0.2 mm around it. We twist the beginning and end of the wire so that it does not unwind. After unscrewing the nut, removing the bolt, what remains is a beautiful little coil.

We remove the varnish from the ends of the wire using stationery knife, tin, install on the bolt. You need to do the same with the second coil.

To prevent the plates and the current breaker from rotating on the axis, it is recommended to glue them with superglue.

Now let's connect the coils in series to check the operation of the electric motor. We connect the plus to the beginning of the winding (from the side of the bolt head). Using a sliding contact, we find the position in which the electric motor operates most efficiently.

In electric motors, such contacts are called brushes. To avoid holding the latter with your hands, you need brush holders that are glued with superglue, lubricating the friction points of the axle with oil.

By connecting the coils in parallel, we will increase the current (since the coils have resistance), therefore, the power of the electric motor will increase. That is, you can imagine the coils as resistances.

And when they are connected in parallel, the total resistance decreases, which means the current increases. When connected in series, everything happens exactly the opposite.

And, since the current through the coil increases, the magnetic field is greater, and the armature of the electric motor is more strongly attracted to the electromagnet.

Video: Electric motor in a few minutes

It is always interesting to observe changing phenomena, especially if you yourself participate in the creation of these phenomena. Now we will assemble a simple (but actually working) electric motor, consisting of a power source, a magnet and a small coil of wire, which we will make ourselves.

There is a secret that will make this set of items become an electric motor; a secret that is both clever and amazingly simple. Here's what we need:

1.5V battery or accumulator.

Holder with contacts for battery.

Magnet.

1 meter of wire with enamel insulation (diameter 0.8-1 mm).

0.3 meters of bare wire (diameter 0.8-1 mm).

We'll start by winding the coil, the part of the motor that will rotate. To make the coil sufficiently smooth and round, we wind it on a suitable cylindrical frame, for example, on an AA battery.

Leaving 5 cm of wire free at each end, we wind 15-20 turns on a cylindrical frame.

Do not try to wind the reel particularly tightly and evenly; a slight degree of freedom will help the reel better retain its shape.

Now carefully remove the coil from the frame, trying to maintain the resulting shape.

Then wrap the loose ends of the wire around the coils several times to maintain the shape, making sure that the new fastening coils are exactly opposite each other.

The coil should look like this:


Now is the time for the secret, the feature that will make the engine work. This is a secret because it is a subtle and non-obvious technique and is very difficult to detect when the motor is running. Even people who know a lot about how engines work can be surprised by a motor's ability to perform until they discover this subtlety.

Holding the spool upright, place one of the free ends of the spool on the edge of the table. With a sharp knife remove the top half of the insulation, leaving the bottom half in the enamel insulation.

Do the same with the other end of the coil, making sure that the bare ends of the wire are facing up at the two free ends of the coil.

What is the point of this technique? The coil will rest on two holders made of bare wire. These holders will be attached to different ends of the battery so that electricity could pass from one holder through the coil to another holder. But this will only happen when the bare halves of the wire are lowered down, touching the holders.

Now you need to make a support for the coil. These are simply coils of wire that support the coil and allow it to rotate. They are made of bare wire, since in addition to supporting the coil, they must deliver electric current to it.

Simply wrap each piece of bare wire around a small nail and you'll have the right part our engine.

The base of our first electric motor will be the battery holder. This will be a suitable base because when installed battery it will be heavy enough to prevent the electric motor from shaking.

Assemble the five pieces together as shown in the picture (without the magnet first). Place a magnet on top of the battery and gently push the coil...


If everything is done correctly, the REEL WILL START ROTATING FAST! We hope that for you, as in our experiment, everything will work the first time.

If the engine still does not work, check everything carefully electrical connections. Does the reel rotate freely? Is the magnet close enough (if not, install additional magnets or trim wire holders)?

When the motor starts, the only thing you need to pay attention to is that the battery does not overheat, since the current is quite high. Simply remove the coil and the chain will be broken.
Let's find out exactly how our simplest electric motor. When electric current flows through the wire of any coil, the coil becomes an electromagnet. An electromagnet acts like a regular magnet. It has a north and south pole and can attract and repel other magnets.

Our coil becomes an electromagnet when the bare half of the coil's protruding wire touches the bare holder. At this moment, current begins to flow through the coil, a north pole appears at the coil, which is attracted to the south pole permanent magnet, and the south pole, which is repelled by the south pole of the permanent magnet.

We stripped the insulation from the top of the wire while the coil was standing vertically, so the poles of the electromagnet will point to the right and left. This means that the poles will begin to move to be located in the same plane with the poles of the lying magnet, directed up and down. Therefore the coil will turn towards the magnet. But in this case, the insulated part of the coil wire will touch the holder, the current will be interrupted, and the coil will no longer be an electromagnet. It will rotate further by inertia, touch the non-insulated part of the holder again, and the process will repeat again and again until the current runs out in the batteries.

How can you make an electric motor spin faster?

One way is to add another magnet on top.

Apply a magnet while the coil is spinning, and one of two things will happen: either the motor will stop, or it will start spinning faster. The choice of one of the two options will depend on which pole of the new magnet will be directed towards the coil. Just remember to hold the bottom magnet, otherwise the magnets will jump towards each other and destroy the fragile structure!

Another way is to place small glass beads on the coil axis, which will reduce the friction of the coil on the holders and also better balance the electric motor.

There are many more ways to improve this simple design, but we have achieved the main goal - you have assembled and fully understood how a simple electric motor works.