What to make a frame bath from. Step-by-step instructions for building a bathhouse with a terrace on your own. We insulate the walls, floor, ceiling

Reading time ≈ 6 minutes

Everyone knows about the benefits of a bath, so it’s rare to find country cottage area, the owners of which have not installed and do not intend to install a bathhouse. Construction practice similar buildings includes more than one hundred years. Therefore, for most people, a do-it-yourself bath is not a fantasy, but a simple everyday occurrence. Those willing to devote time frame construction You can find step-by-step instructions below on how to make your own sauna. The submitted photos, videos, and drawings will help in the work.

Bathhouse project

To meet the cost of 350 thousand rubles, you can build a frame bathhouse 4x4 m, adding a 4x1.8 m veranda to the main structure. In this case, you can equip a steam room 2.1x1.6 m, a relaxation room 3.8x2.1 m, as well as a shower room - 1.6x1.6 m.

Construction of the foundation

The depth of laying the foundation is determined by the level of soil freezing in the area, in in this case- this is 60 cm. To determine its parameters, you need to look at the bathhouse design. If not project documentation, prepared by specialists, the type of foundation is determined depending on the material of the walls.

If you decide to install a frame bathhouse, it will be enough to make a small strip foundation. To arrange it on a prepared flat surface install square formwork from 2 parallel boards. They are fastened with self-tapping screws; additionally, cross members are used to subsequently lay the block.

You also need to take care of the ventilation of the foundation and make appropriate bookmarks. In order not to make a mistake with the size and direction of the trench under the foundation, it is more advisable to first make the formwork, and then dig a trench in the space between the boards. It is better to immediately pour the excavated soil into buckets and take it away from the site to prevent contamination.

The formwork is installed around the perimeter and under internal partitions, as well as where the stove will be installed. This way the load will be distributed more evenly. It is also advisable to carry out reinforcement. The trenches are first filled with sand to reduce the load on the base, and then concrete mortar.

When it hardens, all that remains is to unscrew the screws and disassemble the formwork. Usually after 5-7 days the concrete gains strength. In dry and hot conditions, it is recommended to water the foundation.

Arrangement of the bath floor

First you need to roll out roll waterproofing between the foundation elements and along the foundation itself. This may be ordinary roofing felt. It is also used for waterproofing in foundation recesses intended for logs that will become the base of the floor.

To prevent the logs from bending during operation, they are additionally reinforced with intermediate supports. The upper part of the foundation is also waterproofed. Next, all that remains is to lay the floor board, starting from the edge of the foundation. It must be treated with an antiseptic.

Frame making

The next stage of building a frame bathhouse with your own hands is making the frame itself. 4 separate wall blocks made from edged boards, leaving holes for windows and doors. The workpiece must be collected on the ground, on a completely flat area.

When the blanks are ready for installation, they are installed vertically and fastened in pairs with self-tapping screws. It is very important to maintain the correct connection angle and monitor the level. Externally, frame racks look like hollow-core structures from vertical and horizontal elements. After installation, you need to check the evenness again, and only then begin to build the roofing system.

Roof arrangement

The next stage of the step-by-step instructions is the construction of the roof of a frame bathhouse.

Its installation begins with the installation of logs on the 2nd floor. Next, a layer of floor boards is applied to the resulting beams. Then the rafter system is installed. We must not forget that the chimney has to be removed, so appropriate space must be left in the rafter system. Next, waterproofing is installed, a counter-lattice and sheathing are made. In progress.

Space under gable roof can be actively used for storing brooms and other useful things.

Bathroom wall cladding

The voids in the bathhouse frame are filled thermal insulation material. You can use mats and rolls. But the mats are much more convenient; they are simply inserted into the existing voids of the frame. Roll material will need to be cut according to the dimensions of the intermediate elements of the frame rack.

When arranging walls, do not forget about vapor barrier and waterproofing. When the film is fixed, they begin to decorate the bathhouse at the dacha with a blockhouse.

Interior decoration

The inside of the bathhouse is lined with another layer of thermal insulation, as well as a vapor barrier. The joints must be taped with adhesive tape. On top of this, the walls are covered with clapboard.

When decorating the walls of a steam room, you will need to make 3 layers:

• mineral wool;
• foil;
• lining.

Many garden owners dream of self-construction a bathhouse that would meet all the wishes of the owner, that is, it was planned completely “for him”. Nowadays, there are all the conditions for such dreams to turn into reality. All a novice builder needs to do is follow certain instructions.

In this article we will tell you how you can build a frame bathhouse with your own hands, consider the main stages of its assembly and finishing, as well as which project to choose for a frame bathhouse.

Note that we chose the presented type of construction because of its cheapness and simplicity, since it is based on the use of ready-to-use wood blanks.

Materials and construction plan

In preparation for construction, you will need to purchase the following materials:

• timber 100×100 mm;
• board blanks 50×150 mm;
• waterproofing and insulation materials (roofing felt, mineral wool or penoizol);
• elements of internal cladding (lining);
• materials used for the external cladding of the bathhouse (lining, SML and others)

After all materials have been purchased, you can begin the main construction work, guided by the following plan:

• clearing construction area and laying the foundation;
• construction frame walls;
• roofing arrangement;
• floor installation and interior decoration.

The frame structure of the future bathhouse is a structure of three-meter-long posts, lined inside and outside with boards, between which the insulation of your choice is placed.

For a frame bath, a bookmark will be enough columnar foundation, the depth of which is determined by the quality of the soil at the construction site. So, for sandstone and loam you will need to go deeper at least 1.5 meters, while for clay soil A depth of 30 cm will be sufficient.

The width of the foundation supports is selected taking into account the expected thickness of the walls (recommended width - 270 mm). To strengthen the supporting base for the bathhouse, it is allowed to pour an additional strip foundation on top of the pillars (across the entire width of the frame).

Construction frame structure The bathhouse begins with the preparation of the base trim. To do this, 100x100 mm beams, pre-treated with an antiseptic, are mounted around the perimeter of the building and fastened together with staples and nails.

On top of them, supports are installed from the same timber, which are then tied around the top of the building with 50x150 mm boards. In this case, the vertical installation of the supports must be controlled using a building level.

It is advisable to install intermediate racks in increments corresponding to the size of the blanks (plates) of the insulation you have chosen. In addition, when installing them, you should focus on the areas where the openings for windows and doors will be located, as well as the junction of the partitions.

To increase the strength of the frame structure, everything support posts during assembly they are fixed using additional spacers.

The roof of the bathhouse is made of the same boards with a cross-section of 150×50 mm. In this case, you can assemble the rafter system on the ground and install it ready-made on the top frame. But first, you will need to install and secure a special beam (mauerlat) over the frame, which is used as the load-bearing base of the roof being built.

After you install the rafter system, you can proceed to arranging the sheathing, made from boards 20 cm thick. Once the lathing is laid (which is usually done starting from the ridge), you can proceed to laying the roofing covering you have chosen.

When implementing a project to build a frame bathhouse with your own hands, you need to remember internal works, first of all, about flooring, which is organized, as a rule, according to the traditional scheme:

1. First of all, the harnesses are attached to the joists cross beams cross section 50×50 mm.
2. Then a subfloor is laid on them, covered with a layer of roofing material on top.
3. After this, they place on the roofing felt mineral slabs about 100 mm thick, which are covered on top with a finished floor made of edged boards.
4. Upon completion of all these procedures, it will be necessary to install a special ventilation pipe to extract fumes from under the floor.

Please note that in washing department the floor should be made up of only collapsible boards, well matched to one another.

Having completed the flooring work, you can proceed to the design of window and door openings, as well as to the installation of all partitions included in the project. The ceilings in the bathhouse premises are covered with boards or clapboards, under which a vapor barrier and insulation material. The external and internal decoration of the walls of the building is also organized according to the classical scheme.

We brought to your attention brief instructions about the order of execution of all work on the construction of a frame bath. Maybe you have additional material to our article? Leave your comments.

A good bathhouse, made of high-quality material, designed and built individually, taking into account the personal needs of the owner, is the dream of any summer resident. Taking a steam bath, improving your health, or simply having a good time in the company of friends or relatives is a real Russian tradition.

Nowadays, unfortunately, it is not possible to build a bathhouse from most building materials due to the condition general economy states. Therefore, we suggest you consider the option of building a bathhouse with your own hands based on a wooden frame. It is easy, fast and inexpensive compared to building from natural wood, timber or stone.

This article presents step-by-step instruction construction of a frame bathhouse, starting with the rules for choosing quality materials, ending with the internal lining of the bathhouse premises, as well as some tips and recommendations from professionals.

Construction options

The construction of any bathhouse implies the presence of four main functional rooms:

• verandas (dressing room);
• rest rooms;
• shower;
• the steam room itself;

Sometimes owners combine several rooms, increasing their functionality without losing the level of comfort. The size of the bathhouse depends mainly on the number of people who will use it. The most common options:

• 120x250 cm. Ideal sauna for one person. It consists of two rooms: a steam room (120x150 cm) and a dressing room (100x120 cm). You can change clothes in the dressing room. If necessary, you can arrange a corner with a shower in the steam room.
• 250x250 cm. This option is suitable for two people. It again consists of two of the same rooms (steam room 250x150 cm and dressing room 100x250 cm). If desired, it is possible to arrange a place to store fuel for the stove.
• 300x300 cm. This a bathhouse will do for use by three people. The space inside can be organized in different ways. For example, make a steam room 300x150, and put a shower stall in it, 100x150 cm. The remaining space can be equipped as a relaxation room, which will simultaneously serve as a dressing room.
• 400x400 cm. The most perfect option, if it is planned that the bathhouse will be used by four or five people at the same time. You can leave it on the steam room itself square meters. In this case, the dressing room will be 200x150 cm, and the rest room will be 400x200 cm. Part of the area of this premises can be designated as a shower room by placing a stall in one of the corners.

Please remember that these are just a few of the many options available. You have the right to change the parameters of each room, depending on personal preferences and financial status.

Preliminary work: planning and material selection

First, you need to draw a sketch, create a drawing of the future bathhouse, and also draw up a work plan that will help give coherence and organization at each stage of construction.

It is important to conduct a small analysis, studying all the nuances of constructing a frame bathhouse, the advantages and disadvantages of both the bathhouse itself and the materials used. It is also necessary to take a soil sample to find out its composition: they will be used for construction works, and if the soil is clay, which tends to settle quickly, then you will need a foundation in any case (in rare cases you can do without it). The bathhouse can be either an extension of the house, in which case the entire space can be equipped as a steam room, the bathroom will serve as a shower room, or separately. The drawing must indicate, in addition to appearance future construction, as well as its features: the location of windows and doors (usually this concerns supporters folk signs and Feng Shui), general dimensions, interior design premises, number of floors and so on.

According to Feng Shui, the windows should be directed to the east, and the door, in order to improve the circulation of Qi energy, should be located in the south direction, and it should open into the room. The number of windows should not exceed three for each doorway.

The main advantages of a frame bath are:

• relative cheapness compared to others building materials;
• ease of installation. You don't have to resort to command help professional builders. Everything is quite simple, you can build a bathhouse alone;
• no need for a massive foundation;
• ease of wiring of all communications;
• no shrinkage;
• high speed heating rooms with proper insulation.

The disadvantages include:

• poor sound, vibration and waterproofing;
• the need for additional thermal insulation of all premises. This is necessary in order to prevent heat loss, as well as create some kind of tightness;
• Difficult to maintain and operate. Due to the fact that moisture penetrates into a frame bath more easily, for example, during rain, the wall insulation can quickly become unusable, and replacing it is quite problematic, since the wall covering will have to be dismantled.

Mineral wool, glass wool, polystyrene foam blocks and many others can be used as insulation. Usage liquid glass Not recommended!

From the materials we will need:

• cement (can be M400 grade for building a foundation);
• sand (coarsely sifted, quartz, quarry or purified river sand is suitable for building a foundation);
• insulating material(steam, hydro);
• insulation (about 5 cm thick);
• roofing material;
• gravel;
• timber 10x10 cm (for assembling the lower trim);
• timber 5x15 cm (for mounting the frame);
• beam 4x5 cm (for arranging struts for racks);
• plastic pipes(diameter from 5 cm for water drainage);
• clapboards or any other material for interior cladding.

Since a frame bathhouse is very lightweight design, then the foundation can be built using a simplified system. Both a strip foundation, which is poured under all load-bearing walls, and a nested foundation are suitable, but the second requires stable soil, otherwise the building may fall apart.

Foundation

This article will discuss two main foundation options: nested and strip. For the first option, you need to purchase special piles for the foundation; they can be made of metal, cement, or other materials, or you can make them yourself. There are two types of piles: bored and driven. For the first, holes are drilled around the perimeter into which to insert wooden formwork and metal support pillar, then concrete mortar is poured inside, after some time the formwork is removed, and the resulting space is filled with sand, gravel or a mixture of them. If you chose the second option, then below are step-by-step instructions for you.

Step-by-step instruction:

1. Immediately before building the foundation, the area on which the bathhouse will be built must be cleared of debris and dug up with a shovel upper layer land.
2. We drive small wooden pegs into the ground at the corners of the perimeter, and stretch a thread between them to prevent displacement when installing the piles.
3. On the market you can find metal piles already equipped at one end with a small drill, which will help you easily penetrate the ground. The rods should be about 10–30 cm in diameter, this depends on the thickness of the future walls, and about a meter in length. This is necessary so that each support sinks 50–70 centimeters underground to the level of soil freezing, and rises another 30–50 cm above the surface. All rods are coated with primer or special compounds, preventing oxidation and corrosion of the metal. The supports should be placed at a distance of 1–1.5 m from each other. On top, if this is not provided by the manufacturer, to increase stability, you can stuff a square hat also made of metal 20x20 cm and 0.5–1 cm thick. Use a plumb line or building level with a magnet to ensure that the pile is perfectly horizontal.
4. Holes are drilled in the metal caps, which are later filled with concrete mortar, with their help the grillage will be attached. As a grillage, you can use thickened beams 20x20 cm (then there is no need to drill holes in the supports), or channels, or reinforced concrete slabs.

For greater stability, you can build a strip foundation. Of course, this option will cost a little more, but you will be calm and confident that the bathhouse will last long years.

Strip foundation- a very good option for small buildings, if the soil in your garden area does not tend to move, and with high-quality hydro- and thermal insulation, you will not have to worry that the floor and walls may be too cold.

Step-by-step instructions No. 2 include the following points:

1. Identical to the first step in construction pile foundation.
2. Identical to the second step when constructing a pile foundation.
3. Next, you need to dig a trench 60 cm deep and 40 cm wide around the perimeter, as well as under the load-bearing walls (indicators may vary depending on the design of the bathhouse).
4. The bottom is covered 1/3 of the depth with sand, which is filled with water so that it “sits” better.
5. A layer of gravel or stone/broken brick is placed on top of the sand.
6. It’s worth going over the top with a construction vibrator, which will help fill the resulting voids efficiently.
7. The gravel layer is again covered with sand and carefully compacted. As a result, the height of all layers should correspond to the ground level.
8. A wooden formwork 20–30 cm high is built on top, inside which is laid reinforced belt. The whole space is flooded cement mortar in a ratio of 1:3:3 (for each bucket of liquid cement there are three buckets of cleaned and sifted sand and three buckets of crushed stone).
9. After all manipulations, when the solution has hardened sufficiently, the formwork is dismantled. For the first few days, and in hot weather for about a week or a little more, the foundation is watered with water to prevent cracks from appearing. The solution will finally become durable, turning into a monument, in a month.

When building the foundation, do not forget to dig a trench into which you need to place a drain pipe - it will connect the floor of the bathhouse and drainage well. In this case, the floor must be equipped with small angle, and is also additionally insulated, for example, with roofing felt.

The floor can also be insulated by compacting the soil, adhering to the angle of inclination flooring. Next, a pipe is laid in the trench and covered with sand or gravel. A layer of crushed stone (10–20 cm) is laid on top, and a lower concrete screed (2–5 cm) is poured on top of it and laid on the screed bulk insulation, for example, expanded clay, which is covered with a layer of waterproofing on top. After all insulation work, the last layer of the subfloor is poured - compacted reinforced mesh upper concrete screed(5–6 cm). A finishing floor is laid on top of the subfloor, most often boards are used for this. ceramic slabs, porcelain stoneware or soapstone slabs.

Important! Please note that if you are planning to build a heater in a steam room, then you need to allocate a place for it at the construction stage and equip it there. separate foundation, which ideally should not come into contact with the main one, since due to the large temperature difference its destruction may be observed.

Walling

After building the foundation, you can begin building the walls. For frame walls, a new base is created, which is constructed in the same way as a grillage using tenon and grooves. At the corners you can use the same beams as for the base; they must be walled up in concrete.

Step-by-step instruction:

1. To begin with, all material is pre-dried. For the frame, it is not recommended to use coniferous species, since when heated they release a resinous substance, due to which there is a chance of ignition of the entire building, and birch, since it is more susceptible to rotting processes than other species. For these purposes perfect choice there will be material from deciduous trees(aspen, linden, oak, larch), because these raw materials have high level thermal insulation, which is so important for the construction of a bathhouse.
2. The lower trim must be tightly secured using anchor bolts.
3. Next, the construction of wooden racks begins from the corners along load-bearing walls. The beams are fastened using galvanized corners (the most reliable option), either in bottom harness grooves are cut into which the edges of the beam are subsequently inserted and nailed using nails, bolts or special construction staples. The distance between the beams is usually 60 cm; if an opening is planned in the wall, then the number can be increased by 40 cm, but no more.
4. Temporary slopes are installed between the beams, which prevent the movement of the racks during construction work.

Do not forget to check each installed support using a plumb line or building level.

1. An upper frame is mounted on top, which helps to better secure the support posts and is the basis for the roof rafter system, also using metal corners.
2. On the corners top harness a special groove is cut in the beams, they are fastened with 2-4 nails (depending on the thickness of the walls).
3. Then they begin to install permanent supports. Boards with a cross-section smaller than the racks themselves are used as slopes. They are most often attached with inside baths, four for each support: two upper and two lower.
4. Next with outside All beams are treated with furniture varnish in 2-3 layers, and the internal beams are treated with an antiseptic; only the counters in the steam room and shower should not be treated.

External cladding walls is an important procedure. The service life of the entire building depends on how well you take care of it.

1. After all the construction work on the construction of the walls is completed, we proceed to cladding the walls from the outside. To do this, it is attached from the outside around the perimeter waterproofing material using construction staples on OSB sheets.
2. A frame of small boards is mounted on top of it (not always), and on top of them - facing material, often clapboard boards, block house. This creates some ventilation. Looks beautiful, stylish and elegant. The lining is attached horizontally. To prevent moisture from getting into the seams between the boards, we recommend installing them overlapping.
3. Insulation blocks are laid under the waterproofing. In places under the slopes, blocks of the same mineral wool should be carefully cut and inserted.
4. The insulation is covered with another layer of waterproofing on top.
5. The last layer is OSB sheets; they can also be mounted on wooden frame, on which the internal lining will be installed in the future.

Roof arrangement

Despite the fact that usually installing a roof is a very labor-intensive process, which is simply impossible without the participation of professional builders, in small sauna 6x6 m, or even less, it will not be difficult.

The roof can be one-, two-, or four-slope. The choice again depends on the personal preferences of the owner and his financial capabilities. Let's consider the option gable roof.

Step-by-step instruction:

1. The first step is to install the Mauerlat - supporting structure, on top of which the roof rafter system is attached.
2. After the rafters, in order to make the structure more reliable and stable, vertical supports are installed, which are secured using the same galvanized corners. If necessary, at the stage of installing the rafter system, access to the attic is made.
3. A sheathing of boards 15–20 cm thick is installed on the front boards, and roofing material is already placed on it. This procedure is usually carried out starting from the ridge of the roof.

The roof must be insulated. First, waterproofing is attached, under which blocks of the same mineral wool are installed, and a vapor barrier is placed under the insulation, which can be used as compacted foil. Additionally, for greater tightness, the insulation is closed plastic film. Next comes work on internal lining.

The finishing touches. Interior decoration

On final stage the floor, walls, ceiling are mounted and insulated (more on this above), windows and doors, and interior furniture are installed. Particular attention is paid to the stove, because the stove is the soul and heart of every Russian bath. You can make it yourself or buy it ready-made. The stove can be laid out independently from brick or soapstone, but this design takes up a lot of space, so it is better to replace it with modern electric analogues.

As already mentioned, it is better not to use for ceilings and walls. conifers trees, but deciduous ones. All electrics in the bathhouse must be covered with moisture-proof material. Buy wiring that is double braided and covered non-flammable material, be sure to use corrugated wires to prevent mechanical damage, after all, dismantle the wall or ceiling covering, repairing it, and then putting it back in place is not easy or quick.

Take the quality of ventilation seriously. Take care to install special valves and ventilation anemostats that will help after water procedures remove accumulated moisture.

Let's summarize

As you may have noticed, there are a huge number of options for building a frame bath, the choice of which depends only on you. Use quality materials, do not skimp on the thoroughness of the work - and then your bathhouse will last for many years, delighting you and your loved ones.

Having your own bathhouse is the dream of many summer residents and gardeners. In our culture, a bathhouse is a special place, almost a sanctuary, where you can relax for the benefit of your body, and also rest your soul. In our country, the bathhouse is part of the traditional way of life and can be accessible to everyone. Each of us, without much effort, can build a frame bathhouse on our own site with our own hands. Below we will give detailed instructions frame bath 4 by 4.

First of all, we choose a place on the site for our bathhouse. After which it is necessary to make preliminary calculations according to planning. As with any construction, we first find out the type of soil.

Next, we prepare the main material. Be sure to make sure the boards are well dried. For the construction of a frame bath, we can advise you: birch, larch, aspen or linden.

And so, we need:

• formwork 30 cm wide and 50 cm up;
• metal rods for strapping;
• solution;
• block with a section of 10 by 10;
• sand with gravel.

Let's start by digging a trench, the depth of which should be approximately 50 centimeters and the width about 40. Now we fill the foundation and insert the reinforcement into it, on which it will be attached. You can start tying only after the concrete has completely hardened. Next, we build intermediate slats along the walls. After the walls, we lay out the floor. By the way, it will be very good if the outside walls are covered with clapboard. After everything, we build a hood and cover the roof.

1. Firstly, use it when building a bathhouse. On the one hand, this will allow your bath to retain heat longer, and on the other, it will create some semblance of tightness and prevent moisture from entering. Fiberglass or cotton wool are best for this;
2. Secondly, do it. This will eliminate the formation of condensation and extend the life of the wood. For this, you can recommend roofing felt, film or glassine;
3. And thirdly, on dense soils you can use simple options foundation, for example, pile.

Now that we have prepared all required material and we roughly understand what lies ahead, we can begin the actual construction.

Frame bath construction technology

Also, we can add an extension to our bathhouse measuring 4x1.8 m. A shallow columnar foundation will do for it. After erecting the foundation, we make a base of boards, placing them on the end to eliminate possible deflections.

Next, we assemble the frame of the side structure, which consists of vertical supports and the upper cross member - it will take on the main load of the terrace roof. We fasten the frame to the base with anchor bolts. We make connections between it and the bathhouse and cover it with lathing. We lay roofing material on top, you can also put slate or any other roofing material on top of it.

All the same construction stages are relevant for a 6x6 frame bathhouse, with the exception of some nuances. For example, foundation racks are installed in increments equal to the width of the insulation slabs you have chosen. The base trim is made from antiseptic-treated 100x100 mm timber and is installed around the perimeter of the building, fastened together with staples and nails. We install supports from the same timber on them, which we then tie around the top with 50x150 mm boards.

What to build a bathhouse from? Many, without hesitation, will answer that it is made of timber or logs. Indeed, this material has been tested for centuries, but it has a number of features that need to be kept in mind before construction. First of all, it's worth quality wood Now it’s not cheap, and skimping on its quality means dooming yourself to constantly filling up the cracks. Secondly, construction becomes more expensive due to the need monolithic foundation under a heavy building. Thirdly, you will have to wait a year for the bathhouse to shrink, and only then start working on it. Finishing work. It won't be long before you get a steam bath. Is there an alternative? Yes, this is a frame bathhouse that is easy to build with your own hands.

Advantages of frame construction

A frame bath has several advantages over those built from timber or logs.

1. Construction will cost approximately 2 times less. There will be savings on almost everything, from the purchase of materials.
2. In addition to material savings, there are savings in time and labor costs. Bath by frame technology in the warm season it can be built in a few weeks. It is also not necessary to involve a professional team: you can get by with 1-2 assistants.
3. A frame building does not shrink as much as a wooden one. You can finish and use it immediately, rather than waiting 1-1.5 years.
4. A properly insulated frame bath is, in fact, a thermos, since the thermal conductivity coefficient is modern insulation materials 5-6 times lower than that of wood. It retains heat for a long time, and there are no cracks through which the wind can blow. Additional benefit – modern materials, used for cladding, do not burn, therefore, the likelihood of a fire is lower.
5. Thanks to its excellent thermal insulation, it warms up faster, in just 2-3 hours. Wooden ones need twice as much time to warm up. This entails significant savings firewood, especially if you estimate their quantity per year.
6. The frame can be sheathed inside and outside big amount materials, so that the bathhouse can be given unique view or, conversely, combine it harmoniously with other buildings on the site.

Bath plan

To build a frame bath, it is important to draw up exact plan, as this will allow you to use materials more efficiently and avoid mistakes.

• Before drawing it up, you need to decide whether the steam room will be built-in or separate, and how many people it should be designed for. All other proportions of the structure will depend on the size of the steam room.
• You must first take into account the location of the stove and its type, since a separate foundation must be poured under it, in the case of a brick one, or the floor frame must be strengthened, in the case of a stove.
• Take into account the communication lines to the bathhouse. Decide whether you will connect it to the sewer system on the site. If there is no possibility of water supply, then you need to think about a place for the tank.
• Plan auxiliary premises, since their area and quantity will affect the thermal insulation of the steam room.
• Select the roofing material in advance, as its type will affect the thickness and number of rafters.

Once all these questions have been answered, you can make a plan. Typically, a frame bathhouse consists of a vestibule, a dressing room, a washing room and a steam room. If space allows, you can equip a rest room. When designing, you need to take into account that to conserve heat, all doors must open into the premises. You can also use ready-made standard plan, of which there are many on the Internet, or purchase a professionally designed one from construction companies.

Preparatory work and foundation

Like any construction, the construction of a bathhouse begins with removing the fertile layer of soil, compacting the remaining one and marking the foundation. At the same stage it is necessary to lay water pipes, and if it is decided to connect to the sewer, then sewer.

The type of foundation for a frame bathhouse is selected taking into account several factors: the soil on the site, the number of floors in the building and total weight building, which depends on the material chosen for the roof and frame beams. For a building with a roof made of corrugated sheets and a frame made of timber on soil with slight heaving, they are limited to piles or, for example, using plastic or asbestos-cement pipes.

Materials

To build a frame bathhouse, you will need a not too extensive list of materials.

1. To assemble the frame, you can use a beam or a special metal profile. The structure made of timber is more popular, it weighs less and is easier to assemble. The most optimal one is with a cross section of 5*10 cm for intermediate supports and 10*10 for corner posts and two harness belts. The quantity is calculated according to the drawing. Boards 2-3 cm thick and 10-15 cm wide for interior cladding and ceilings.

2. The frame is sheathed with OSB or DSP, preferably moisture-resistant. It is worth deciding on the sheathing material during the design process, since the frame racks are placed at a distance of one slab from each other, so that the joint falls on the beam. OSB is preferable due to the fact that to work with them you will need the same material as for wood, while DSP can only be cut with a grinder.

3. Used as insulation mineral wool(URSA 100 mm or equivalent), fiberglass or polystyrene foam. The latter can only be used for those rooms where strong heating does not occur (dressing room, rest room), since when the temperature rises it emits harmful substances. The thickness of the insulation must match the thickness of the timber used for the frame.

4. In addition to insulation, vapor and waterproofing is needed. It is not recommended to use roofing felt, as when heated it begins to smell specific. Roofing felt is used only for laying between the foundation and the lower trim and external waterproofing.

5. It is better to choose natural material for the interior lining - wooden lining, it will create the effect of a steam room in a bathhouse made of natural wood -.

6. The outside of a frame bathhouse can be covered with a block house, clapboard, stone or lined with brick.

7. Brick or metal sheets to protect the wall and floor near the stove from sparks.

8. Fasteners (corners, plates), wood screws, nails.

Construction of the frame

The frame is erected after the foundation has completely hardened. Roofing felt and logs for the subfloor are laid on it, and then they begin to assemble the lower strapping belt. The timber must first be treated with an antiseptic and antipyretic. The evenness of the walls depends on how horizontal the bottom frame is, so it is necessary to constantly use a level when laying beams and laying thin boards or roofing felt. The beams are fastened together with metal plates and secured to the foundation with anchor bolts. The correct assembly of the lower trim can be checked by comparing both diagonals; they should be equal.

Walls, external and internal, are easier to construct from frames that are assembled on the ground. The corners and sides of each frame are carefully measured. The parts are fastened “in half a tree” and fixed with nails or self-tapping screws and corners and metal plates. Grooves are made in the logs for installing intermediate beams. The distance between the beams is affected by the width of the material with which the frame will be sheathed. So, for OSB sheets with a width of 120 cm, the gap between the beams will be 60 cm. Under the windows and around doorways install additional racks. The frames are attached to the lower frame and connected to each other. Another strapping belt is assembled on top, and floor boards are laid on top of it.

Warm walls

The wall “pie” for a frame bath looks like this:

• lining,
• interior lining,
• vapor barrier,
• stand of insulation,
• waterproofing,
• outer frame cladding,
• facing material for walls.

After erecting the frame, perform interior lining from boards 2-3 cm thick. The preferred species are linden, aspen, larch; they are not subject to rotting and do not deform under the influence of moisture. The boards are nailed to the vertical beams with two nails. As finishing material most often they use wooden lining, which, among other advantages, strengthens the structure.

For vapor barrier, you can use glassine or a special film covered on one side with foil. The foil is placed towards the room, so it will warm up faster. Vapor barrier during the construction of a frame bath is necessary, since it is necessary to prevent condensation and moisture from entering the structure from the walls.

It is located behind the vapor barrier. It must completely fill the space between the beams and be equal in thickness to them, this will ensure thermal insulation at the proper level. Next, waterproofing is attached to the beams, for which a special film is used. Roofing felt is also acceptable, since with well-insulated walls, heating from the steam room will not affect it.

Then it is sheathed from the outside. DSP sheets or OSB is attached to the beams. If the project is drawn up correctly, there will be no problems at this stage. The outside of the bathhouse can be covered with clapboard, siding, block house or boards to give it a traditional look.

Roof and floor

The roof can have any design, but it is traditionally constructed gable with rafter system . When building a bathhouse, it is advisable to provide good ventilation roofs. If vertical racks are located every 60 cm, then the frame can easily withstand such a load. Ceiling insulation is also whitened Special attention, the space between the ceilings is filled with mineral wool, expanded clay or sawdust. Like the walls, the ceiling must be protected by a layer of vapor barrier.

In a frame bath, the floor is made using the same technology as in a wooden one.

Important Note

Although modern materials are characterized by low flammability, a lot of wood is still used in the bathhouse. Requirements must be taken into account fire safety: the wall near which the stove will be located must be made of bricks, they also need to lay out a platform around it or cover the adjacent walls and floor with metal sheets.

Frame technology – great option for those who want to build a bathhouse at low cost, but without compromising functionality and durability.