The use of pine needles. Warming of a private house

Lovers of coniferous plantations living in central Russia dream of an evergreen decoration of the adjacent plot. Despite the frost resistance of conifers, young seedlings need protection for the winter. How we cover the conifers for the winter, and other ways to protect against ice and snow, we will consider in this article.

Why cover winter-hardy crops?

Almost all coniferous plantations from trees to low-growing shrubs are characterized by unpretentiousness and resistance to frost. Both thuja and spruce attract the attention of gardeners not only with their beautiful appearance, but also with their resistance to diseases, pests, and also exude a wonderful coniferous aroma. In addition, they are excellent antiseptics.

Out of love for the decorative look of the plant, it is planted along the alleys, near administrative buildings, as well as in parks and gardens. But, despite such positive characteristics, coniferous plants need shelter for the winter. Namely, young seedlings that are not yet 3-4 years old are considered weak and need protection. Here are two aspects that adversely affect evergreen crops:

1. strong frosty wind;
2. spring sun rays reflecting off the snow.

Why wind and sunlight? The fact is that the winter wind causes severe dryness of the branches, and from a lack of moisture they freeze, break off and die. If you watched a beautiful spruce with a withered shoot and yellowed needles, then you should know that this happened due to a cold and strong wind. If the needles of trees are able to withstand severe frost, then she does not like the wind.

Everyone knows that the thaw at the end of February and March is characterized by a bright sun, the rays of which are reflected on the white snow. At this time, sap flow has not yet begun, and shrubs are still weak and vulnerable. Then pine needles and green thuja legs under bright light can get sunburned. Therefore, there is a need to shelter the culture for the winter, not to mention the break of branches under the weight of adhering snow.

Protection for medium height shrubs

To cover for the winter coniferous bushes that have not yet reached the age of 3, we first bend the branches to the trunk of the tree. To do this, we take a twine, preferably green or the same color as the trunk, and, without pressing hard, lightly wrap the cord so that the paws of the stems do not stick out. After that, we take a non-woven material or spunbond, and determine the size of the future bag. Then we fix the seam with a stapler.

To date, manufacturers offer ready-made bags of agrotex in various sizes. Spruce and pine need autumn shelter only in the first year of life.

How to cover shrubs and young trees of medium height so as not to damage the crown and preserve the integrity of the culture as much as possible? For this, a wooden frame is constructed from bars of medium thickness.

Advice! “You can make a frame out of a flexible plastic mesh, which is very convenient because of its flexibility.”

It is better not to install an iron or wire frame, as the metal conducts cold and can cause frostbite of branches.

After preparing the walls of the frame, we wrap it with a covering material. It is better not to use polyethylene for these purposes, as it collects moisture. The moisture accumulated under the film in the winter cold freezes and does not contribute to thermal insulation or leads to decay and mold. In addition, polyethylene may not withstand low temperatures and burst, allowing the penetration of snow and cold wind. To protect coniferous plantations for the winter, it is better to use:

• burlap;
• spunbond;
• kraft paper;
• agrofibre;
• lutrasin;
• agrospan.

Any of the listed materials, except for kraft paper, can be stapled to a wooden frame. You can wind the insulation around the mesh, connecting the ends into a single seam.

Any agrofibre should be of medium thickness for air to enter (sometimes they leave a small gap or do not fix the top), but not tear from strong gusts of wind. After winter, shelters should be removed in early April or late March, when it gets warmer and sap flow begins. When to open the insulation you will be prompted by moderate melting of snow and air temperature close to 0 ° C.

If your pets have reached the age of 4, and you did not cover them, but only pulled them with twine, then we do the following frauds. At the end of February, on the south side of the garden, we install an awning from any available covering material. Our goal is to create a shadow curtain so that the conifers do not get sunburn from the blinding sun.

Protection for undersized shrubs

If your juniper or cedar is too young, or you are a fan of undersized crops, then the amount of insulation work is significantly reduced. It is enough to stock up on spruce branches in the forest and cover them with seedlings in the form of cone-shaped houses. Zealous owners prefer to install plastic containers on top of the spruce branches for reliable fixation and maintaining the temperature regime.

The industrial business satisfies any demand, and therefore the Moscow region is provided with covering material for planting in full. It is sold in the form of cone-shaped bags with a pulling rope at the bottom. So that the ends of the coniferous paws do not turn yellow, it is enough to use special bags.

Agronomist advice! “For young conifers with a weak root system, it is necessary to sprinkle the place at the roots with sawdust or mulch before sheltering for the winter.”

Extra care

Despite the winter hardiness and unpretentiousness of the culture, mineral dressing will not hurt. Especially for freshly planted crops in the fall, so that they can take root until spring. The plant must be strong and disease resistant. How to feed pets in anticipation of cold weather?

We will describe several steps leading to successful acclimatization and overwintering:

1. we water in autumn 50-60 cm deep, not only near the root, but also in the radius of the root system. With heavy autumn rains, the procedure is canceled;
2. near-stem mulching with organic matter (needles, pine bark, sawdust, spruce branches, hay, etc.) is poured in 1–2 layers, not thicker, so that rodents do not make a nest;
3. feeding with biohumus and compost will support the vitality of conifers, as well as the introduction of magnesium with dolomite flour;
4. nitrogen in large quantities and manure can harm plantings;
5. in the spring at a temperature of +10 ° C, it is recommended to carry out treatment with biostimulants: epin, HB 101, Zircon. Sometimes it is enough to spray the crown with warm water and hide from the sun.

It is much more expedient to take care of the conifers than to restore them as a result of a careless attitude.

Tries to walk around, but I have three cats. And besides, plenary meetings of all the neighbor's cats are held in my attic for various reasons. There are all sorts of fights without rules, etc.

If insulation means saving money, then you need to start with a set of engineering measures aimed at improving heat generation.
First things first, you need to install a bypass in the water heating system.
The second event is the replacement of the heating device (boiler).
The third is the elimination of uncontrolled ventilation outflow (the hood in the kitchen in the bathroom and also the fireplace are equipped with dampers)

Then - ensuring the drainage of rainwater, increasing the roof overhang, arranging a blind area around the house - all together eliminates the possibility of foundation settlement and the appearance of new cracks in the building and the normalization of underground moisture.

The next stage is the elimination of transverse, longitudinal and vertical air filtration (critical for brick walls). Existing cracks are expanded and sealed with expanding cement. Problematic and potentially problematic places are drilled and blown with foam from a can.

Humidity has a cardinal influence on the thermal physics of walls. Therefore - trees, bushes and so on. at a distance of 2 m from the building - we ruthlessly uproot. All sorts of grapes, flowers, birches and other crap shading the walls and tearing the foundation - too. (At this stage, clashes with the natives are possible, up to the armed ones - be prepared).

The next stage is the surface hydrophobization of the walls.

Then we take the windows. The old ones are still quite normal, but it blows. Therefore, we take out, inspect, minor repairs and put back on silicone sealant. Then (important!!!) we take out each glass, coat the seat with sealant and put the glass on it. As a result, tightness is not worse than that of a new plastic one.

Shutters on the windows - this is an amateur. It’s easier to pin the plastic film on the outside with buttons for the winter. Cheap and cheerful.

The attic is usually uninhabited. Therefore, we insulate the floors in the cheapest way, for example, with needles - an excellent insulation for these purposes. We close holes and cracks in the attic, caulk in any way possible.

That's about all. I did this with my mother-in-law. Gas consumption has decreased by about half. And this despite the fact that a gas water heater was also installed, which eats decently.

The idea of ​​replacing ordinary light bulbs with energy-saving ones turned out to be counterproductive - they burn, large voltage drops.

To press, to flare up ...

Needles? And this is a thought. She doesn't rot. And there will be no environmental issues - only fire hazard

THE RANGE OF PRODUCTS IN MODERN GARDENING STORES IS AMAZING: HERE IS NUMEROUS TYPES OF COVERING AND MULCHING MATERIAL, A VARIETY OF FERTILIZERS, INSECTICIDES, FUNGICIDES ... BUT ALL OF US CAN ALLOW, WE ALLOW TO ALLOW? I THINK NOT EVERYTHING. THAT'S WHY I DECIDED TO TELL ABOUT THE COMMON PINE NEEDLE, WHICH WILL BE BIG BENEFITS ON ANY HOUSEHOLD PLOT AND WILL HELP YOU REFUSE TO PURCHASE THESE NECESSARY, BUT EXPENSIVE GOODS

PINE NEEDLE AS MULCH

A huge pine tree grows close to our common fence in the neighbor's summer cottage. She annually dropped a large amount of needles, which I did not always have time to clean. And when one day I got around to this event, I found damp soil under a thick layer of coniferous litter, while the rest of my garden was suffocating from the scorching summer heat.

This observation gave me the brilliant idea of ​​using coniferous litter as mulch. It was not difficult to get a large amount of needles: our SNT borders on a vast pine forest. For half an hour, I filled the car to the top with bags of this free material, which was enough for me to mulch all vegetable beds, a flower garden and tree trunks of garden plantings.

ON A NOTE

To protect my hands FROM PITCHING NEEDLE, when gardening with needles, I use not ordinary cotton gloves, but denser ones designed for pruning thorny bushes. And in the cellar, where my harvest is also stored with needles, I specially leave strong gloves: I put them on every time I take out another batch of vegetables for eating.

Under a layer of mulch 3-5 cm thick, the earth remained wet much longer after watering, so I stopped worrying about my green pets, leaving them unattended until the next weekend. In addition, the mulch choked out weeds and prevented the formation of a crust on the surface of the soil, eliminating the need for me to loosen the aisles and weed out unwanted vegetation.

I use coniferous litter as a mulch to this day - and I never cease to rejoice at this economical find, which saved me from having to buy special mulching materials in the store.

Prickly beds and trunk circles

In the spring, after germination or transplanting of seedlings, I mulch with needles beds with vegetables. And the thick layer of mulch under the trees, shrubs and garden strawberries I have to update only occasionally: the needles on the soil surface rot very slowly. For the same reason, in the fall, after harvesting vegetables, I rake the needles from the surface of the beds and send them to the compost heap for “ripening”.

I dig up the beds with the addition of mineral fertilizers and organics, and also bring in wood ash for digging at the rate of 1 half-liter jar per 1 m2, since coniferous litter, with its regular use, tends to acidify the soil. If there is no ash at hand, I use fluffy lime, chalk or dolomite flour according to the instructions. With horticultural crops, I act differently: I move the layer of needles to the side, add fertilizers and deoxidizers to the near-trunk circle, planting them with a chopper into the soil, and then return the mulch to its place.

I tried coniferous mulch into the soil after harvesting, but I didn’t like it: in the spring it is very difficult to work with “prickly” soil. Therefore, now I use coniferous litter, which I collect in autumn in a large amount, to prepare humus.

Cooking coniferous humus

The needles rot for a very long time, from 3 to 5 years, so for the sake of speeding up the process, I use a little trick. To do this, I put needles, fresh mullein (for every 1 m 3 of needles I take about 100 kg of manure), the tops of vegetables, weeds, kitchen waste, layering them with small portions of garden soil, and then pouring the contents abundantly with the thief of any microbiological fertilizer according to the instructions and cover with a thick film. I use similar solutions 2-3 more times in the next season, and also periodically ventilate and moisten the ripening humus from the hose. With this approach, coniferous litter rots 2 times faster, and after 1.5 years, by the next spring, I get the most valuable fertilizer.

If there is no mullein available, then I fill the compost bin with needles and plant residues mixed with garden soil, and each layer is abundantly moistened with a strong solution of urea (200 g per 10 liters of water). In the future, I also use solutions of microbiological preparations - and in the same time I get a loose homogeneous mass, which, due to the rich chemical composition of coniferous needles, is saturated with a mass of useful macro- and microelements.

And the presence of a large amount of essential oils and phytoncides in pine needles completely frees such humus from pathogenic microflora and insect pests, which often choose “ordinary” humus for wintering or a place of permanent residence.

Coniferous humus has a slightly acid reaction, therefore, before applying it under the plants, I add a glass of wood ash to each bucket of such fertilizer. But if it seems tedious to someone, you can pour layers of ingredients with wood ash or a purchased deoxidizer at the stage of laying humus according to the instructions.

Let the garden wake up early!

slowly decomposing pine needles - an excellent material for the construction of warm beds. I prepare such beds in the fall so that next season I can harvest an ultra-early crop of vegetables from them.

To do this, on the planned site, I dig a trench with a depth of two bayonets of a shovel. I cover its bottom with a thick layer of needles sprinkled with wood ash, spread a layer of manure on top, and then fill the pit to the top with soft-stemmed plants - weeds without seeds and roots and tops of vegetables, layering them with small portions of soil. The top layer is fertile soil 15–20 cm thick. I use “fillings” so much that at the end of work such a bed rises 25–30 cm above the ground. I spill the contents abundantly with a solution of microbiological fertilizer and cover with a dense black film.

By spring, the bed settles, and with the advent of the first thaw, the processes of decomposition of organic matter are actively launched in it, due to which heat is released, and the soil in the bed warms up at the earliest possible time. This allows you to plant seedlings a month earlier than usual. To do this, I make cruciform cuts in the film and plant plants in them, after which I install arcs over the bed and cover them with spunbond to protect the plantings from spring frosts. The contents of such a bed change for a long time and allow you to use it for several years.

Alternative to spruce branches

The beneficial properties of coniferous litter do not end there - I successfully use it for warming plants for the winter. Scourge of covering grapes, actinidia, clematis and other heat-loving vines I remove from the trellis, tie and lay on the ground. I bend the branches of “tender” shrubs (rhododendron, azaleas, roses, heat-loving varieties of berries, etc.) to the ground and fix them with metal pins. After that, I take out bags with needles previously dried in the sun from the bins and fill the ground part of the plants with it to the top. Then I cover the coniferous rollers with a thick film and fix its ends with stones or sprinkle with a layer of earth.

In the same way, I insulate bulbous flowers and beds with vegetables planted before winter - I fall asleep with dry needles and cover with foil. I use the film in order to protect plants from damping out during the winter thaw, the risk of which increases many times under such a dense layer of wet mulch. And I insulate the root system of young seedlings of trees and shrubs in a different way: for this, I lay out dense garbage bags stuffed with dry needles in their trunk circles.

A dry shelter based on needles perfectly protects plants from winter frosts. And if, when using other materials, such as straw or sawdust, such shelters became a cozy wintering place for rodents, now this problem does not arise: prickly needles do not allow voles to come close to such “houses”.

Pine needles as an insecticide

In early spring, a variety of pests of fruit trees and berry bushes wake up in the garden, which immediately begin to lay eggs. In order to protect against them, I spend spraying plants with coniferous infusion. To prepare it, first I finely chop 1-1.5 kg of young pine twigs with a hatchet, put them in a bucket and fill the container to the top with hot water. I keep the contents in a warm place under the lid for 3-4 days, stirring it periodically.

Then I filter the infusion, dilute it by half with clean water, add a couple of tablespoons of liquid soap and treat the trees and shrubs from the sprayer with a solution. I repeat spraying several times: during the swelling of the buds on the plants, in the phase of the rose bud, and also immediately after flowering. Such an economical tool replaces expensive insecticides and allows you to rid the garden of the codling moth, flower beetle, weevil, sucker and leafworm.

Also noticed that coniferous infusion - an excellent remedy for various types of aphids, which likes to settle not only on garden crops, but also on garden crops, such as cucumbers and tomatoes. To protect against aphids, I spray horticultural crops with the infusion described above, diluted 1: 1 with water, and for processing vegetables I prepare a weaker solution - 1 part of the infusion and 2 parts of water.

In one of the seasons, with the help of two sprays, carried out with an interval of 2 days, I completely rid my cabbage of white caterpillars - and took this tool into service. However, in the new season, I decided that it was better not to allow these voracious pests to appear on the plants at all, and immediately after planting the seedlings in the ground, I began to spray the cabbage bed with coniferous decoction every 10-12 days, which scared away the white butterflies and did not give them the opportunity to lay eggs on the plants . I now carry out such procedures in every season, and my cabbage is always clean.

To prepare a decoction, I put 1.5 - 2 kg of crushed pine branches in a large enameled pan, pour 6 liters of water and put on fire. I boil the contents under the lid over low heat for 15-20 minutes, and after cooling, I filter. I prepare a working solution for spraying from 2 liters of decoction and 8 liters of clean water and add a couple of tablespoons of liquid soap there so that the fragrant drug settles on the leaves.

Coniferous solution - an effective remedy for cruciferous flea. Therefore, to protect against this pest, for the purpose of prevention, I regularly spray not only cabbage, but also radish, radish, daikon and other crops of the cabbage family.

But to protect against the Colorado potato beetle, which, as it turned out, also does not tolerate the smell of pine, I prepare a more concentrated solution - 4 liters of broth per 6 liters of water.

By the way, in order to protect potatoes from wireworm, you do not need to prepare infusions or decoctions, but you can use coniferous litter from the forest.

To do this, in the spring, when tubers are planted, a handful of pine needles must be added to each hole, and the enemy will be defeated: the smell of rotting needles will disorient the pest.

Fortunately, there are no slugs on my garden plot, but my friend, having suffered with these voracious pests, found salvation in coniferous litter. Now, along the perimeter of each bed, she pours rollers of coniferous needles, and the slugs are unable to get to the leaves and fruits of vegetables. She does the same in the case of trees and shrubs, the young leaves of which slugs love to feast on: she makes rounded sides of needles in their near-trunk circles.

Fungicidal properties of litter

Starting to use an infusion of pine branches on cucumbers and tomatoes to protect against aphids, I noticed that these plants were much less damaged by fungal diseases. Now coniferous infusion, diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 2, I apply on these and others cultures more methodically, with an interval of 10 - 14 days. Most of all, it is pleasing that after such preventive spraying, tomatoes are affected by late blight only in extremely unfavorable weather - during cold, prolonged rains, when it is impossible to spray with either folk remedies or fungicides.

And thanks to such a budget, cucumbers and zucchini have become less i susceptible to their main disease - powdery mildew.

Harvest with pine scent

The bactericidal and antiseptic properties of pine needles help me not only get a generous harvest at my summer cottage, but also keep it for a longer period in the cellar. For this purpose, I use well-dried coniferous needles, with which I sprinkle root crops during their storage. At the bottom of the bin, in which I am going to lay carrots, beets, radishes, daikon or other vegetables, first I fill the needles with a layer of 2-3 cm, then I spread the root crops in one layer, crush them with needles, put a new layer of vegetables - and so I act until I fill the whole locker. With this approach, the roots remain juicy and elastic much longer and are not damaged by rot.

WHEN THE BRANCHES ARE USED

But what about pine spruce? On the eve of winter, I, of course, use it to protect the stems of young trees from rodents. To do this, I tie pine branches with needles down to the stem of each tree, and they do not allow rodents to get to the tasty bark.

Due to the pronounced aroma, needles can be used to combat a wide variety of garden and horticultural pests. But in this case, I do not use dried coniferous litter, which has lost the bulk of its essential oils, but young pine branches that I cut in a neighboring forest in early spring. At this time, the needles are maximally saturated with phytoncides and useful substances, so infusions and decoctions from it not only do an excellent job with pests, but also act as additional plant nutrition.

Insulation of the ceiling in a private house can significantly reduce the amount of heat loss during the cold period and significantly improve the microclimate in the premises in summer. High-quality thermal insulation will give you, in addition to increasing comfort, tangible savings in the family budget for heating. The costs associated with the purchase of insulation will pay off in 2-3 years.

In addition to reducing the cost of heating a house, floor insulation solves a number of other problems. By preventing the entry of warm air into the attic, the insulating structure prevents the accumulation of water vapor and moisture in the under-roof space, which damage the rafters and floor beams. In addition, insulation helps to avoid melting snow on the roof and the formation of large icicles, which are very dangerous during thaws. When organizing a living space in the attic, the soundproofing function is very useful. In any case, ceiling insulation is a necessary measure for a private house.

Carrying out work on the insulation of the ceiling is quite within the power of any home master. Installation requires a minimum level of initial training of the performer. The tips below will help you avoid common mistakes and get the job done quickly and effortlessly. By carefully planning the workflow and preparing the necessary materials in the right quantity in time, you will save your time, nerves and transportation costs. Let's consider in detail how to properly insulate the ceiling in a private house.

Where to insulate the ceiling: inside or outside

Insulation of the ceiling in a private house can be carried out both from the inside and outside. Both options give pretty good results. They differ in the materials used and the methods of their installation, so each master chooses the most convenient option for himself under specific living conditions, taking into account economic feasibility.

Attic floor insulation options

With an external version of insulation, thermal insulation is laid in the attic. If the attic space is not used, then the insulation does not need decorative trim, which distinguishes this option from the previous one. In addition, it is much more convenient to work with external insulation.

Internal insulation involves fastening heat-insulating materials to the inner surface of the ceiling and installing suspended structures made of drywall, plastic, wood, etc. It should be borne in mind that with internal insulation, 15-20 cm of the height of the room is lost. Therefore, if your ceiling is at or below 2.5 m, then you should give preference to insulation from the attic.

Internal insulation is worth choosing if you are going to make repairs and plan to install a false ceiling. In all other cases, preference should be given to external insulation.

The choice of material for thermal insulation

The following heat-insulating materials are popular for warming private houses:

1. Styrofoam;
2. Styrofoam;
3. Penoizol;
4. Polyurethane foam;
5. Penofol;
6. Mineral wool;
7. Basalt wool;
8. Ecowool;
9. Expanded clay;
10. Sawdust;
11. Vermiculite;
12. Dry grass, needles, reeds.

External insulation with foam or polystyrene foam is perhaps one of the cheapest and most affordable ways. This task is quite easy to do on your own. The materials are resistant to moisture, do not rot, do not burn, but melt during a fire, releasing acrid poisonous smoke. Expanded polystyrene essentially consists of the same material as polystyrene, only it is made in a slightly different way. The main disadvantages are the release of poisonous phosgene gas during combustion and a relatively short service life (up to 10 years). When using them, it is necessary to pay increased attention to fire safety.

Penoizol - liquid foam. Does not burn, vapor-permeable, biologically stable, superior to polystyrene in terms of thermal insulation properties. Manufacturers claim complete safety for humans after hardening. It is produced on site and laid using a special expensive installation, so the work is carried out only by specialized teams. Convenient and cost effective for large volumes.

Similarly, work is being done with polyurethane foam, which is synthesized from two liquid components. Depending on the proportion used, a polymer foam with different properties is obtained. The surface is covered with a continuous layer without joints, excluding the possibility of blowing cracks. The disadvantage is that toxic substances are released during combustion.

The process of pouring penoizol

Penofol - the made foam polyethylene covered with aluminum foil. Prevents the penetration of cold air, drafts and radon, reflects radiant heat into the room. The material is very light, does not create additional loads, works very well in combination with mineral wool. Due to its small thickness, it almost does not affect the height of the room.

Mineral wool contains mainly natural materials: sand, rocks or melts. Available in rolls and sheets of various sizes. It has good heat and sound insulation characteristics and an affordable price. It needs protection from moisture, as when wet it completely loses its thermal insulation properties. It is resistant to temperature extremes, restores its shape after a load, but becomes caked over time. The material, unlike glass wool, almost does not prick, but still requires the presence of protective equipment during operation. The main disadvantage is the content of phenol, which can easily penetrate the human skin.

Basalt wool is made from molten rocks. Produced in the form of mats and plates. It is characterized by resistance to loads and high temperatures, hydrophobicity, elasticity. The material is able to pass water vapor and does not allow them to accumulate inside, does not shrink and can withstand operation up to 70 years without loss of quality. Just like mineral wool, it contains phenolic binders, and the fibers can irritate the skin and mucous membranes.

When working indoors, cotton wool is usually used - mineral or basalt. it vapor permeable materials that allow the ceiling to "breathe".

Ecowool is a bulk material of natural origin, consists of 80% cellulose with borate additives, which protect it from easy ignition and decay. Laying work can be carried out wet using a special installation and dry manually. The manual method is extremely simple. It is enough to pour cotton wool between the lags on a pre-laid glassine and loosen it slightly. Ecowool increases in volume by 2-3 times. The recommended layer thickness is 30 cm. Thermal conductivity is the same as that of mineral wool, while ecowool is not afraid of moisture, prevents the development of fungi and mold. Serves more than 100 years.

It is possible to use cheap local materials for insulation of the attic floor, such as expanded clay, sawdust, hay, needles, reeds, clay and slag. Their cost is often only equal to the cost of delivery, but the thermal insulation properties are noticeably lower, and it is more difficult to lay them. Sawdust before laying needs special protective treatment. Otherwise, they can be damaged by rodents, rot and ignite very easily. Hay is a tempting place for a variety of small bugs and insects to settle. For a noticeable thermal insulation effect, all bulk heaters require a significant thickness - from 30 cm, which leads to a strong load on the floors.

Good results are obtained by combining sawdust with vermiculite. Both materials of natural origin, easily absorb moisture and easily give it away, maintaining optimal humidity. Vermiculite is made from hydromica and is considered an ideal bulk insulation with environmentally friendly properties. In terms of thermal conductivity, it is comparable to mineral wool. The only drawback of vermiculite is the price.

The laying of bulk insulation provides for their backfilling between the logs or bars of a specially made crate.

If the environmental friendliness of materials is fundamental for you, then you should opt for expanded clay or sawdust with vermiculite. If high thermal insulation properties and ease of installation are important, basalt wool is your choice.

Warming with basalt wool: step by step

Let us consider in detail how to do external insulation with your own hands using one of the most effective heaters - basalt wool.

Necessary materials:

1. Basalt wool slabs 100 mm thick;
2. vapor barrier film;
3. Waterproofing film;
4. foil tape;
5. Wooden beam;
6. Hardware.

Instruments:

1. stapler;
2. Roulette;
3. Hacksaw or jigsaw;
4. A hammer;
5. Locksmith knife;
6. Screwdriver.

• Step 1. First of all, you need to perform a thorough cleaning in the attic and create a flat surface for laying stone wool.
• Step 2. If the attic is planned to be residential, then a wooden frame is laid for the future floor. The step between the lags is determined in accordance with the width of the insulation boards in order to ensure the tightest possible fit.

In the presence of wooden floor beams, the insulation is placed in the space between them. In case of insufficient height, additional bars are attached from above.

If the attic will not be operated, then this item can be skipped.

The height of the insulation depends on the climatic features of the area and the design of the roof. In most cases, it is optimal to use two layers of basalt wool 100 mm thick.

• Step 3. The vapor barrier film is laid. If the floor is reinforced concrete, then this item can be skipped, since it has low vapor permeability.

Fastening to floor beams or logs is carried out using a construction stapler with wrapping edges. In new construction, the film is laid under the beams. The sheets are overlapped by 150 - 200 mm, fastened with moisture-resistant adhesive tape and must be wound onto the walls by at least 200 mm to guarantee the prevention of moisture penetration. The best option is to use foil material. In this case, the sheets are placed end-to-end with the foil down and glued with special adhesive tape.

Beams and logs are not covered with a vapor barrier film in order to avoid the accumulation of moisture in them and rapid decay.

• Step 4. Sheets of basalt wool are laid on the vapor barrier film, avoiding gaps at the joints if possible. Gaps of 2-3 cm are left near the walls, which are not closed to ventilate the cotton wool.

• Step 5. The second layer is laid with the maximum displacement of the seams. In cold climates, a third layer will not be superfluous. It is laid across the previous ones and eliminates all potential cold bridges.

For an attic floor that will not be used, you can stop there (unless, of course, the roof is leaking), or you can play it safe by following the recommendations of the next paragraph.

• Step 6. A waterproofing film is laid to protect the wool from moisture ingress from above during operation.
• Step 7. The structure is mounted to move around the attic.

For a residential attic, boards are laid and, if necessary, a finish coating; for a non-residential attic, it is enough to provide walkways for walking during technical inspection and maintenance of the roof.

Work is best done in the warm season - in summer or early autumn.

For external insulation, it is better to take vapor-tight materials to protect the ceiling from moisture, for internal - vapor permeable.

The more air the insulation contains, the more effective it is, so we must strive to ensure maximum "fluffiness" for materials such as mineral wool, ecowool, sawdust.

External insulation will always be cheaper and easier to perform.

With internal insulation of the ceiling and the use of some models of built-in ceiling lamps, the bulbs may often burn out due to the lack of heat removal. In this case, it is better to hang an ordinary traditional chandelier.

For vapor barrier, only a special film with the appropriate marking or glassine can be used; ordinary polyethylene cannot be used.

Penofol is always stacked with foil down.

You can perform complex insulation by combining different heaters.

When performing insulation with basalt wool, it is necessary to use a mask and protective clothing that completely covers the body.

Before starting work, you should carefully study the advantages and disadvantages of all available thermal insulation materials, analyze their operational capabilities, evaluate the costs and complexity of installation. Making a carefully considered decision and installing thermal insulation, taking into account the above recommendations, guarantees a safe and effectively insulated ceiling in a private house.

Although in recent years, a wide variety of modern heaters have appeared on sale, environmentally friendly waste from the woodworking industry has not lost its relevance as thermal insulation materials. It is, of course, primarily about sawdust.

Sawdust is especially often used as a heater when building houses in regions rich in forest expanses, since a large number of sawmills are usually located here. And this means that it is possible to purchase material at a low price, and sometimes even find it almost for nothing.

Sawdust as a heater - "pros" and "cons"

Sawdust and materials made on their basis are used to insulate almost any element of the house - attic floors, walls, floors, cellars, etc. In addition, blocks are made from wood waste, which are widely used for the construction of residential and utility buildings.

Sawdust - waste, which will find the widest use

This material does not lose its popularity, thanks to the positive characteristics, which include the following:

• One of the most important advantages can be safely called the absolute ecological purity of sawdust. They do not emit substances toxic to human health, so they can be used in any quantity.
• An important advantage is the already mentioned low price of the material available to everyone, and sometimes the ability to get them for free.

• Sawdust - excellent, of course, with proper observance of the laying technology. If the thermal insulation layer corresponds to the required thickness, in accordance with the climatic conditions of the region, then such insulation will not be inferior in its effectiveness to other modern materials.

• Sawdust can be used for insulation, both in the usual loose state and in other forms. For example, it can be mixture slabs with other natural or artificial materials.

The disadvantages in using this insulation in its pure form include high flammability. However, if sawdust is used in clay or cement mixtures, then their flammability is significantly reduced.

If we argue from the standpoint that the rafters, attic floors and walls are made of wood pre-treated with fire retardants, then the sawdust will fit perfectly into this building complex, provided that they are also subjected to special processing. In addition, it will be necessary to provide for high-quality insulation of all electrical cables that will cross the insulation layer or be located in its thickness. The thermal insulation of the chimney pipe in places where it passes through the attic floor or located near the wall also requires special attention.

It should be noted that sawdust is by no means the only natural material that has long been used to insulate housing. And if you look at the table below, they do not lose to other natural " thermal insulators».

natural insulation material	Mass of material kg/m3	Coefficient of thermal conductivity
Tow	180	0,037-0,041
cotton wool	80	0,036
Felts different	-	0,031-0,050
The campfire is different	150-350	0,04-0,065
Moss	135	0.04
sphagnum peat	150	0,05-0,07
Needles	430	0.08
Chopped straw in stuffing	120	0.04
Straw mats	-	0,05-0,06
Fine wood shavings in stuffing	140-300	0,05-1,0
Dry leaves	-	0,05-0,06
sawdust	190-250	0,05-0,08

Of course, not all sawdust is the same - a lot depends on the type and quality of the wood, during the processing of which they are obtained.

So, almost unconditional "leader" in this matter are oak sawdust. They are less hygroscopic than sawdust obtained from other tree species. Even if moisture gets on them, it will not do them much harm, since the oak contains natural antiseptic substances. Therefore, they are not subject to the appearance of rot and do not swell when water gets on them.

However, oak sawdust is too widespread do not name the material. It's okay - well suited as a heater and waste from conifers: spruce, larch or pine. Coniferous wood in abundance contains essential oils that staunchly resist the appearance of fungus or rot, that is, by nature itself, antifungal and antiseptic qualities are incorporated into the material.

sawdust preparation

sawdust, clean, unprepared cannot be considered fully suitable for the manufacture of blocks or for filling as a heater. After the final drying, they become a very flammable material. In addition, various insects or rodents can choose them for nesting.

Therefore, with pure material, you must first work:

First of all, sawdust is processed with special compounds that have the properties of a fire retardant.

The flame retardant will make the sawdust practically non-flammable ...

First, the sawdust is mixed with a deep penetration antiseptic, and after drying - with a fire retardant. All processes can be carried out on a covered film ventilated area under the roof, for example, under a canopy.

... and the antiseptic will prevent the biological processes of decay, the appearance of fungus, nests of insects and rodents

• After fire retardant treatment, sawdust is mixed with slaked lime, which will not allow rodents and insects to settle in the heater.

Lime is added to sawdust in proportions of 1:5, that is, one part of lime to five parts of sawdust. Measurement can be carried out in bags - for example, five bags of sawdust and one bag of dry lime are poured out, and then thoroughly mixed. If the work is to be carried out by hand, then mixing can be carried out using an ordinary hoe and a shovel.

• In addition, it must be taken into account that the sawdust used for insulation in bulk form tends to sag over time, reducing the air gap formed and, naturally, losing its insulating qualities. Therefore, after a certain period, you will have to fill them up or lay another insulation on top of them.

Taking into account such a negative factor of subsidence, in order to prevent the need for periodic renewal or strengthening of the thermal insulation layer, a mixture is made consisting of sawdust, lime and gypsum, in proportions of 9: 1: 5. Then the mixture is moistened with water, mixed, and immediately laid on the prepared base .

Since the gypsum hardens very quickly, the composition must be prepared in small portions in order to have time to lay them out before they harden in the place intended for them, otherwise the material will be damaged.

If there is no desire to rush, adjusting to the setting time of the gypsum, it can be replaced with cement mortar.

When using this method of insulation, preliminary drying of sawdust is not required. They can be used immediately after delivery from the sawmill.

Prices for various types of antiseptics

Antiseptics

Ways to insulate a house with sawdust

As mentioned above, several options for various mixtures with the addition of gypsum and cement are used for insulation using sawdust, but the old folk method still remains the most popular - a composition with clay.

sawdust with clay

Clay and sawdust are two natural materials that are absolutely safe for the health of the residents of the house. In the mixture, they form a material with excellent heat-insulating and waterproofing qualities, therefore they are well suited for wall insulation and. After hardening, clay is not affected by hot steam, which cannot be said about most other modern heaters or waterproofing materials. Well, the sawdust in the mixture will create a good thermal insulation effect.

In addition, the clay-sawdust mixture is quite resistant to high temperatures and fireproof.

The advantages of this composition include the fact that such a heater is perfect for a house built in any region - both where the summer heat reaches critical thermometer levels, and where there are severe frosts in winter.

A mixture of clay and sawdust not only retains heat during the cold period, but also prevents the rooms from heating up in the most extreme heat, therefore, in the house, thermally insulated with this mixture, warm in winter and cool in summer.

Unlike modern heaters, clay-sawdust material can last for centuries without decomposing and without losing its original qualities.

Insulating a building with wood waste and clay is not so simple. In order to achieve the desired effect of thermal insulation, it is necessary do work according to certain requirements:

• The mixture must be prepared in compliance with certain proportions, otherwise the composition will have low adhesion, and if the walls are coated with it, then shedding is not excluded after drying.

• To achieve the maximum effect of insulation, the mixture on the walls must be applied correctly and have a certain thickness.

In modern conditions, this composition is rarely used for application to walls - most often sawdust with clay is used to create an insulating layer in the attic floor, where the material will not be subjected to serious stress.

If there is a desire to insulate the walls, then it is best to make insulating plates from clay and small sawdust or from chopped reeds or straw.

Experienced builders working with such material recommend using reeds, since for some reason it is absolutely.

Vegetable fibers mixed with clay will become a kind of “reinforcement” for the solution, which will increase the bearing capacity of the insulation layer on the walls.

Preparing the mixture

There are several ways to make a clay-sawdust mixture for home insulation. There are also several ways to install it. So, mats can be made from the finished mixture, which are fixed on the walls and laid on the attic floor.

Another option is to spread the mixed wet mass between the floor beams or apply it on the wall, on the advance fixed crate.

For the manufacture of an insulating mixture and its further use, it is necessary to prepare certain materials and tools. You will need:

• Sawdust, clay and water.
• Glassine and waterproof adhesive tape for fastening.
• A metal box with low sides (or a trough) for kneading the mass.
• Large capacity for soaking clay.
• Bucket .
• Shovel and hoe.
• Flat boards from which molds will be assembled for the manufacture of block panels.

In order for the mixture to turn out plastic and not crack upon drying, it is necessary to observe the correct proportions of the starting materials.

AND. In the event that the mass in its raw form will be laid on the ceiling or on the surface of the walls, ⅔ buckets of sawdust are taken for bucket clay diluted to creamy states.

To obtain such a consistency of clay, it is laid out in a large container, for example, in an old bathtub or trough, and filled with water, in proportions of 1:1. Clay is left to swell for a day or more, depending on the initial dryness of the material.

Then the mass is well mixed until homogeneous. If the mixture is very thick, you can add a small amount of water to it, mix well again and leave more for 5 ÷ 6 hours. To process etc went faster, the mass needs to be stirred periodically.

If possible, it is best to soak all the clay necessary for work at once - it will not deteriorate from this, no matter how much it is in the water. And the mixing of the solution can be carried out as the previously prepared portion is consumed.

If there is on the farm, then the work will go much faster. But it is most convenient to mix manually with a hoe and a shovel.

To mix the clay-sawdust mortar, another large, but shallow container made of thin metal, with sides 150 ÷ ​​200 mm high, will be needed. The required amount of sawdust is poured there for one portion of the batch, and, according to the proportions, the clay mixture is laid out. Then the composition is well mixed and laid out on the prepared attic floor or applied to the walls.

B. If it is decided to insulate the house with clay-sawdust mixture mats, then the materials are taken in proportions of 1: 1. While the clay will swell, during this period it is necessary to make forms of the desired size, into which the finished mixture will fit.

If the mats will be laid on the attic floor, then it is worth determining the distance between the beams and their height - according to these parameters, forms are made. They are, in fact, a box without a bottom.

It is best to make several forms, for the manufacture of several mats at once. To make the blocks even on all sides, it is recommended to do the following:

• One or more plywood sheets are laid on a flat surface, which are covered with a dense polyethylene film.
• Forms are set on top.
• The prepared clay-sawdust mixture is laid out in them and, as far as possible, compacted.
• From above, the composition is aligned using the rule - in this case, the sides of the form will serve as beacons.
• After setting and a slight drying of the mixture, the mats can be removed, and further drying will take place without a form, in a well-ventilated place under the roof. They cannot be taken out in the sun, since cracking of the resulting blocks may occur during the final drying.
• The vacant molds are again filled with the mixture - and this continues until the required number of mats is made.

The process of insulation with clay-sawdust composition

The technology of insulation with a clay-sawdust mixture is quite simple, both with the help of mats and with laying out the mixture in a wet state.

Insulation with clay-sawdust wet mass

1. When insulating the attic floor with clay-sawdust mass, you must first prepare the surface on which it will be laid out.

• Boards and floor beams are treated with antiseptic compounds. If there are wide gaps between the boards, glassine can be laid between the floor beams. In the case when several sheets of glassine are laid, they must be overlapped and preferably fastened with waterproof tape.

• Further, a clay-sawdust mixture is laid out on the steel and leveled using the rule.

• Then the leveled surface can be moistened with water and further leveled with a spatula.
• After the clay has completely solidified, it will become dense, and it will be easy to walk on it.

2. can be carried out in two ways - this is throwing a wet mixture on the walls or pouring it into the formwork attached to the finished main or frame wall.

• Clay mortar is applied to the main wall between the installed beacons with a trowel or thrown by hand and leveled with a rule.

• Another option is to sketch the mixture on the wall where the shingle is fixed. But in this case, it will not be possible to lay a thick layer. On the shingle, a clay throw of no more than 30 mm can be kept.

• After the clay-sawdust layer dries, it is leveled with sand-cement mortar, and then with plaster.

3. The third option for wall insulation with a wet mass is to lay it in a formwork installed along the main walls, or fixed on both sides to the frame racks.

• Formwork boards are made from boards with a height of 1000 mm. They are fixed on both sides of the frame racks or parallel to the main wall, at a distance of 200 ÷ 250 mm from it.
• The formwork is laid sawdust-clay mixtures with careful tamping. After that, the composition is given time to dry.
• After the mixture has dried, the formwork is removed and rises higher, where it is fixed again in the same way.
• The filling process is repeated in the same order until the top of the wall is reached.

• Since there will be openings on top between the frame beam or the wall and the ceiling, which cannot be filled using this technology, you will have to make mats of the right size, install and fix them on the clay mortar over the finished lower sections of the walls.

Insulation of walls and floors with clay-sawdust mats

sawdust and clay mats are laid in the same way as the mats of their other insulation materials.

• The schema looks like this:

1 - Attic floor beams.

2 - Ceiling.

3 - Draft floor of the attic floor.

4 - Glassine is laid on top and bottom of the insulation.

5 – sawdust-clay plate.

6 - Attic floor boards.

• The preparation of the floor boards is carried out in the same way as when pouring the clay mass.
• Further, ready-made plates are laid on the laid surface. If large gaps remain between the floor beams and the mats, they will have to be filled with a wet mass of clay and sawdust.
• To insulate the main walls, a crate is fixed on them from a bar having the size of the thickness of the mat (if it is not more than 100 mm). The distance between the bars of the crate should be equal to the width of the mat. It will be most convenient to fix the installed plates with slats, nailing them onto the crate bars.
• In the event that insulation is carried out in a cold region, where average winter temperatures reach minus 25 ÷ 30 degrees, insulation boards must be at least 300 ÷ 400 mm thick. Such plates, or rather, blocks are mounted on a clay-sand mortar, according to the principle of brickwork.

• If the frame walls are insulated, then it is necessary to provide for the installation of two rows of bars or boards with a thickness of at least 70 ÷ 80 mm. If two bars are installed that determine the thickness of the wall of the house, then sawdust and clay blocks will be stacked between them. In order for the blocks to fit snugly together at the installation sites of the frame bars, they make square cutouts in the corners that repeat the shape and size of the bar.

• When the main walls are insulated, it is recommended to make masonry from blocks at a distance of 70 ÷ 100 mm from the wall.
• After the insulation layer is raised by 800 ÷ 1000 mm, it is recommended to make a backfill of expanded clay between it and the wall.
• Then the insulating wall rises another 700 ÷ 1000 mm, backfilling is done again - and so on to the very top of the wall.
• Upon completion of the insulation, the walls must be necessarily cement or clay mortar.

sawdust with cement

If cement is chosen instead of clay as “partners” to sawdust, then the process of manufacturing, applying or laying the mixture is not much different from working with sawdust and clay solution, but the components and proportions are somewhat changed.

So, in this case, in addition to cement and sawdust, lime will be required. The components are taken in a ratio of 1:10:1. Additionally, copper sulfate or boric acid can be added to the mixture as an antiseptic. These components will require approximately 50 g per 50 kg of the mixture. For each portion of the mass, from 5 to 10 liters of water will be required, depending on the method of insulation.

If all the ingredients are available, the mixture is kneaded:

• All components are poured into a container prepared for mixing, mixed with a hoe in a dry form until smooth.
• Antiseptics are added last, and after that the mixture is immediately filled with water and mixed. It would be better if the antiseptic components are diluted in the water poured into the mixture - then they will quickly absorb into the sawdust.
• The mixed mixture must be checked for readiness. This is done like this - the mixture is drawn into the palm of your hand and compressed. If water does not ooze from the lump, and it does not crumble, then the composition is ready for the manufacture of plates, for laying in formwork or for distribution over the surface of the attic floor.

On the attic floor, as in the case of clay, glassine is laid under the laid out mixture, but in this case it can be replaced with plastic wrap.

After the laying of the wet insulation is completed, it is left to solidify.

Bulk material insulation

Warming with dry sawdust is quite simple. Processed and dried sawdust is simply poured onto the attic floor. The thickness of their layer varies depending on the winter and summer temperatures of the region. More precisely, this parameter can be found in the table located at the beginning of the article.

Sawdust for insulation is used dry or in the form of sawdust granules - pellets.

They are made from small sawdust with the addition of an antiseptic, flame retardant and carboxymethylcellulose glue. Ready-made granules are practically non-flammable, and rodents do not start in them. It should be noted that they are more convenient and practical for insulating floors than just sawdust, as they do not shrink and retain heat well.

• Backfilling of granules is carried out on a prepared surface - cracks the boards are smeared with a clay-lime composition, or the subfloor of the ceiling is covered with glassine.
• The granules are distributed in an even layer between the floor beams. If a layer of greater thickness is required, then along the perimeter of the attic, bumpers are installed, with a height equal to the desired thickness of the backfill layer - then the granules are stacked to their top.
• If it is planned to make a floor in the attic from a plank floor laid on top of the insulation, then an additional crate is fixed to the floor beams, that is, they are raised in height.

Video: attic insulation with dry sawdust

Walls are also insulated with dry sawdust or granules, falling asleep inside. If ordinary sawdust is used, then they must be well treated with antiseptics. In addition, in order to make them heavier, but keep their low thermal conductivity, sawdust is sometimes mixed with slag. The walls, built and insulated in this way, reliably protect the house from the penetration of cold and summer heat.

• Backfilling of the insulation is carried out as the main walls are raised by 700 ÷ 1000 mm, with a mandatory, but not excessively strong rammer for compaction.

• After backfilling and tamping, the walls rise again to a certain height, and so the process continues until the entire required height is displayed.

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Conclusion:

With proper pre-treatment, both the sawdust itself and the compositions made with their use are excellent thermal insulator, which is quite capable of replacing any of the modern materials. Using them, you can be 100% sure that none of the household members will develop allergies or other diseases associated with the release of toxic substances, which some synthetic heaters sometimes “sin” with.