Interesting toilet renovation. Go. Housing problem. Tile, wallpaper and plastic panels in the interior of the toilet

“latest generation”, modern finishing materials, as well as radically new technological solutions for interior design, many have a desire to transform their home. And in order to better understand how certain finishing materials are installed, it is best to start with the smallest room in the apartment - the bathroom.

Repairing a toilet with your own hands is quite possible if you know where to start this process, what materials can be used for this, and how to install certain components of this specific room.

When starting a renovation in this room, it is necessary to take into account that if you plan to completely replace all the plumbing and pipework, and not just tidy up the walls and ceiling, you will have to spend a lot of money. Job construction crew It will also not be cheap - that’s why it makes sense to try your hand at being a builder and designer.

Preparatory activities

Like any construction work, repairing a toilet begins with preparing tools, purchasing materials, dismantling old plumbing accessories, cleaning the surfaces of walls, floors, and ceilings.

Tools

You need to start with tools, since they are necessary both for preparatory work and for carrying out the repair itself. From construction tools Must have:

• Screwdriver with a set of bits or, as a last resort, a set of screwdrivers - for dismantling old accessories fixed to the walls, and then for installing new ones.
• Hammer - for removing concrete baseboards, if any, and old tiles from walls and floors. You will need it later for drilling holes.
• Gas wrench - will be needed for unscrewing and tightening threaded connections when dismantling and installing sinks, toilets and pipes.
• Brushes and rollers - for applying primers and coating waterproofing materials.
• Notched trowel - for applying tile adhesive to surfaces.
• If metal pipes will be replaced with plastic ones, you will need to prepare a machine for welding them and a special pipe cutter.
• Tape measure and folding meter - for taking the necessary measurements and markings.
• Building level and plumb line - to control vertical and horizontal accuracy during finishing work and installation of plumbing.
• Other plumbing and carpentry tools - hammer, chisels, files, chisels, hacksaws and others - as needed.

Dismantling old plumbing fixtures

When everything is at hand necessary tools, you can begin dismantling work.

• The first step to take is to shut off the cold and hot water from the central water supply system. The taps must be completely closed.
• Next comes dismantling plumbing - sinks, if it is installed in the toilet, and the toilet bowl.

It is necessary to take into account the fact that if the family does not intend to leave the apartment during the renovation, then it will be very difficult to do without a toilet, so it is recommended to remove it last, and remove it temporarily, only for the duration of daily work, and then install and connect back to the sewer. This process is repeated until the repair is completed and the old one is replaced with new toilet. It's troublesome, but there's nothing you can do about it.

You can do otherwise - do not touch the toilet until the time comes to replace the pipes. True, you will still have to return to the first option - it is unlikely that you will be able to complete all the operations in one day.

Removing the sink

- After To Since the apartment will be disconnected from the water supply system, you must open all the taps and make sure that there is no water left in the pipes. In addition, you need to flush the water from the toilet tank, otherwise it may all end up on the floor.

— Sinks are installed on brackets fixed to the wall. Some of the models have a decorative pedestal that covers the drainage structure and water supply pipes. Additionally, the pedestal serves as a support for the bowl. Therefore, dismantling the sink begins with removing this particular element. The pedestal must be secured to the floor, so the first step is to unscrew this fastening.

— Hedging his bets, you can twist the storage cup from the siphon, and the water accumulated in it is drained into the prepared container. After this, the settling glass can be put back in place, since the entire drainage system will be dismantled. To do this, you need to unscrew the nut installed at the bottom of the sink, which holds the siphon and drain pipe. The nut can be easily unscrewed by hand if you turn it counterclockwise while supporting the siphon bowl.

— Next, the siphon is removed from the section of pipe on which it is installed, along with a hose that drains water into sewer drain. Then, the entire system disconnected from the sink is removed from the sewer socket. The hole in the socket of the sewer pipe must be closed with a lid or plugged with a cloth rolled up in the form of a gag - so that the unpleasant smell of the sewer does not spread throughout the room.

— The next step is to disconnect the hoses supplying water to the mixer from the water supply system. To dismantle them you will need to use gas or adjustable wrench(in some cases it is more convenient to use a set of open-end wrenches - usually all plumbing connections in the bathroom or toilet - in the range from 19 to 30).

— Then the sink can be removed. If you plan to install the same sink with the same faucet after the renovation, then it is left screwed to the bowl and taken out of the toilet along with it.

Dismantling the toilet

Having finished with the sink, they move on to dismantling the toilet and cistern.

— When dismantling the toilet, the water must also be turned off and the water drained from the tank - this is a warning in case the process of removing it takes place on another day, after removing the sink.

— Then the tank is removed from the brackets, if it is mounted on the wall, and removed from the toilet. If it was installed on the toilet platform, then the corresponding mounting bolts are unscrewed and the tank is removed.

— Now you can remove the “corrugation” (or other connecting pipe), going into the sewer. It is removed from the toilet and pulled out from the socket of the sewer pipe. It is recommended to immediately discard this element of the system and install a new one when installing the toilet.

— The next step is removing the toilet itself. To do this, the bolts (sometimes screws or studs) with which it was secured to the floor are unscrewed from the holes. The fasteners are unscrewed using a wrench or a screwdriver, depending on the type of fastening.

— If the toilet was previously installed without the use of cement, only with the help of screws and sealant, then you should try to carefully rock it and remove it from its place. If it was installed on a concrete mortar, then it will not be so easy to knock it out of place, and in this case, in 99 cases out of 100, it is no longer possible to do without replacing the toilet with a new one. Old, which. more likely, if it develops a crack or split, it is immediately sent to waste.

— If, after repairs, you plan to install a successfully removed toilet in its place, then it is temporarily removed from the bathroom so that it does not interfere during operation.

Cleaning surfaces from old coatings

Whatever finishing material is chosen for the walls and floors, the old coating must be removed, since during its many years of use it has probably become saturated with various odors that can remain in the room even after renovation, which is extremely undesirable.

The second reason why surfaces must be cleaned is that the walls cannot be properly treated with a primer, which means decorative finishing or the glue for it will not be sufficiently adhesive to the wall. The finishing material will begin to peel off over time, and repairs will have to be made again.

• It is convenient to remove old ceramic tiles with a hammer drill by installing a flat chisel blade.

Removing paint from walls using a hair dryer...

• Painted walls can be cleaned using a hair dryer and a spatula, or using a sander with a round wire brush.

...and with a wire brush

• If plaster was previously applied to the walls, it is first soaked with water and then removed using a thickened spatula (having a thickness of 2.5 ÷ 3 mm).

• Wallpaper is the easiest way to remove from walls - just like plaster, you need to wet it and leave it for a while, then moisten it again and remove it from the surface with a spatula.

• Having cleaned the surface of the walls and ceiling, they proceed to dismantling the floor covering.

The work can be done manually using a chisel, or in the same way as removing the old coating from the walls using a hammer drill.

After removing the old decorative coating, the surfaces need to be well leveled, removing small residues removed material. If necessary, they are passed over again with a grinder with a metal brush installed on it.

Primer and waterproofing

After cleaning the walls and floor, the garbage is taken out, then all surfaces are swept with a brush, and finally it is better to collect the dust with a powerful vacuum cleaner.

• Next, it is necessary to coat the surfaces with a deep penetration antiseptic primer, which will create excellent adhesion (adhesion) to the materials applied to them and will protect the walls from the formation of mold colonies. The primer is applied at least twice, the second time only after the first has completely dried.

• After the primer has dried, you can proceed to waterproofing the floor. Since engineering tests are taking place in the toilet communications - sewerage and plumbing, no one can exclude various emergency situations. To avoid the risk of water leaking to the lower floors, high-quality waterproofing in the toilet, as well as in the bathroom, is essential.

There are many materials and methods waterproof floor, but the most accessible for use in apartment conditions is coating waterproofing, which is first applied at the joints of the wall and floor in strips 150 ÷ ​​180 mm wide.

• A waterproofing tape is laid on top of the still wet coating, at the joints of the planes of the walls and the floor and pressed well - recessed. It will additionally protect the joints from leaking in case of contact. large quantity water on the floor.

• After the joints have dried, the waterproofing mixture is applied to the entire floor and left to dry. If necessary, apply one or even two more layers, each of which must dry thoroughly before the next one is applied.

After completing the waterproofing process, they proceed to dismantling and installing pipes.

Prices for different types of primer

Primer

Pipe replacement

If a major renovation of the toilet is underway, then, of course, it is better to immediately replace all the water supply pipes with new ones. This process is especially necessary if the old system has been in operation for many years without repair.

It is better to replace metal pipes with plastic or metal-plastic ones. But first of all, the old ones are removed. They will have to be cut with a grinder - then they can be twisted using a gas wrench. Only after dismantling the old wiring to the point where it enters the apartment, a new one will be installed from new materials, installed in the same or another, more convenient place.

If you have no idea how to do it correctly, it is better to invite a specialist for such a task. He will draw up an installation diagram for all wiring, taking into account the location of water meters, water shut-off valves and the connection of installed pipes to the riser.

It would be optimal if the main water pipes - risers passing through all floors - are completely replaced throughout the entire entrance. Then all apartment owners will have the opportunity to change the pipes in their apartment at a time convenient for them without any problems by connecting to the new riser pipes.

Pipes are also a system of taps, filters, water meters and collectors.

The wiring diagram will be quite complex if water filters for preliminary and deep cleaning and etc. have to fit into it. If these devices are not provided in the apartment, then the circuit will be quite simple - instead of metal pipes, Same This is where new plastic ones are installed.

• The easiest to install is tee pipe routing, which is why it is often used in apartment bathrooms.

1 — Pipe with fitting for connection automatic washing machine or toilet cistern.

2 — Hot and cold water pipes with fittings for connecting a sink faucet.

3 — Hot and cold water pipes with connectors for connecting a bath mixer.

4 – Bends (angles) for turning pipelines in the desired direction.

5 — Tees allowing for branching from the main pipe.

6 — Check valves, allowing water to flow in only one direction, preventing it from flowing back.

7 — Hot water meter.

8 — Cold water meter.

9 — Pressure reducers that stabilize it in the apartment system - this installation can be especially important if the pressure in the external system is not stable.

10 – Oblique coarse filters.

11 – Taps (valves) to shut off the water supply to the apartment.

12 — Central risers for cold and hot water.

The disadvantage of the tee system is the uneven supply of water to different points of consumption during simultaneous use.

• The following diagram shows the general pipe distribution for the apartment according to the manifold circuit. In it, each water intake point is individually connected to installed collectors for hot and cold water. This makes it possible to achieve complete uniformity of water distribution and independence of water intake points from each other.

Obviously, if there is a desire to update the wiring system, making it a collector system, then you will have to change the pipes in the entire apartment, where they are laid - the bathroom, toilet and kitchen. Manifolds are usually installed on the back wall of the toilet (usually where the water risers are located or nearby) and are closed.

The figure shows one of the possible organization options collector system pipe distribution in a city apartment:

1, 2 And 3 – valves, through which you can organize either a direct supply of hot water to the internal distribution system, or through an installed heated towel rail

4 – Main tap at the hot water inlet.

5 – An oblique coarse filter that traps large particles coming from the central pipeline.

6 – Water meters, respectively for hot and cold water.

7 – Fine mechanical filters. Very often they are additionally equipped with pressure gauges.

8 – Pressure reducers.

9 – Collectors – combs to which cold and hot water pipes are connected, going to all water collection points.

10 – Main tap at the cold water inlet.

The diagram also shows storage water heater, embedded in common system. Naturally, when owners switch to autonomous consumption of hot water, they necessarily cut off the internal wiring by turning off the tap (item 4) at the inlet of the hot water supply. More details (which, by the way, very often hangs itself in the toilet) described in a separate article on our portal.

• When installing pipes, you need to determine the location of the sink (if it is provided in the toilet).

If it is located next to the wall where the collector is located, then flexible hoses To connect it, you can close it with a small box.

If the sink is installed closer to the exit from the toilet, then you can do it in two ways - also build a box for the pipes, or hide them in the wall. To do this, you will need to make grooves in the wall, in which the pipes will be laid, coming out only with threaded fittings for connection.

Last option This is especially true if ceramic tiles are laid on the walls.

After the pipework is completed, all open threaded fittings (often called sockets) must be temporarily closed with lids, plugs or small gags to prevent construction mixtures from getting into them.

• The sewer pipe coming from the sink can also be hidden in a box, wall or floor, making a separate groove for it, into which it will be embedded. The second end is connected to the sewer pipe running from the toilet to the main riser.

Should the sewer riser be completely replaced? It is advisable, of course, if there is an old one there cast iron pipe, already heavily corroded. But doing this in one separate apartment from the entire riser will be quite difficult. If you take such a step, it is best to come to an agreement with all your neighbors at once.

Having completed operations with pipes, you can move on to work that will help make the toilet room neat. Agree that no matter how aesthetically pleasing the new pipes may look, it would still be advisable to cover them so as not to spoil the appearance

Pipe box installation

• In order to decorate the water supply and sewer pipes, it is necessary to build a frame on which the plasterboard panels will be attached.

A well-designed box will help hide all the “ugliness” of the pipes

The frame can be made from wooden block or from metal profiles. All its elements are carefully measured, cut using a hacksaw, metal scissors or a grinder, and during installation they are leveled using a level and fastened together with self-tapping screws.

• The frame is placed at the bottom of the wall if it was possible to fit all the wiring in this particular area. For sewerage, a separate frame for the duct is often built.

If necessary, the entire wall is covered with a frame. But, in both the first and second cases, it is necessary to provide a window that will provide access to all elements of the wiring, so that in the event of an accident, it can be easily eliminated, without understanding everything decorative partition. In addition, we must not forget about free access to valves and water meters for periodic readings.

• In addition to emergency and inspection doors, you need to think about. Very often ventilation ducts in apartment buildings located along the back wall of the sanitary unit rooms, and the holes for them are located under the ceiling of the room. It is impossible to close the ventilation, so a separate box must also be provided for it in the frame, and an exhaust duct must be installed in it after finishing work is completed.

• After installing the frame, it must be sheathed with a material on which any decorative finish will fit well. Most often, plasterboard is used for this purpose, but sometimes plywood can also be used, the panels of which are fixed to the frame using special screws.

• After the drywall is attached to the frame, all its joints need to be reinforced with fiberglass mesh and sealed with putty. In addition, all self-tapping screw heads are also covered with putty, otherwise, over time, rust from them may appear through the wallpaper, paint, or even through the material of the seams between the ceramic tiles.

• Next, you need to think about what type of door will be installed in the frame structure. Perhaps this and the material chosen for finishing will determine when to install elements for its fastening - immediately or after finishing work.

— If the partition will be pasted over washable wallpaper, the door must be secured to furniture hinges. In this case, it is installed on the frame immediately.

A simple option is to hang blinds on the wall

— If blinds are used as a door, which is the easiest way, they are hung after all finishing work is completed.

— If surface finishing will be carried out PVC panels, then the door can be made of the same material installed on a frame made of slats. It is secured to lathing slats intended for fastening panels.

— Another option for mounting the door could be a frame made specifically for the openings left, on which the door is installed. The frame together with the door is inserted into the frame opening after finishing work, and it is decorated with baguette slats around it.

On a sheathed and puttied partition before installation decorative material Apply two coats of primer and leave to dry.

Finishing the ceiling, walls, floor

The toilet can be finished different materials, which have high moisture resistance, can be wet cleaned and are not susceptible to the negative effects of chemical detergents. Such decorative coatings include ceramic tiles, PVC panels, washable wallpaper and plaster impregnated with a deep penetration primer.

For the floor, of course, the simplest and most reliable solution would be ceramic tiles. From innovative technologies- can become a coating self-leveling floors on epoxy based. They have another name - because thanks to the multi-layering and transparency of the material, it is possible to create three-dimensional images.

Let's look at the most popular finishing materials that are affordable and easy to install yourself.

Ceramic tile

Ceramic tiles are considered the best option for decorating the walls and floor of a toilet. It has numerous advantages over others finishing materials both in terms of performance and decorative features. Moreover, there is a great variety of collections on sale, differing both in design and price - you can always choose the right option for a particular one.

• Before laying tiles, it is necessary to check the walls for evenness. If they are deformed or beveled, they must be leveled using putty or sheets of drywall.

With drywall it is much easier, the work process goes faster, and after its completion there is not a large amount of dirt left. Drywall can be fixed to walls using special glue and fixed in several places with dowels. The seams between the sheets are sealed in the same way as on the lining of the previously installed box.

At very uneven walls Drywall must be secured to the sheathing installed on the walls.

However, there are difficulties in this matter - if you use profiles for sheathing, they will “eat up” a significant part of the already small area toilet, therefore they are often used instead wooden slats only 15 ÷ 20 mm thick.

• Having leveled the walls with plasterboard and covered them with a primer, you can begin laying ceramic tiles on the dry surface.

The installation process of this material begins from the floor. Monitoring the evenness of the rows and the fit of the tiles to the wall must be carried out constantly using building level. To ensure that the seams between the tiles are the same, plastic crosses are used to calibrate their width.

• If individual tiles require adjustment - reducing them or removing some part of them, cutting is done with a special tile cutter or glass cutter, which is carried out several times along the same line, and then the excess part is separated from the tile using pliers. You can also carry out cutting using a grinder, installing a diamond or corundum wheel on it for cutting ceramics.
• The tiles are laid using tile adhesive specially designed for this purpose. It is applied to the walls with a notched trowel and spread over the surface.
• Having completed the installation, the seams between the tiles are sealed with a special grout (fugue), matched to the tone of the tiles. overall color premises.

• After finishing the walls, you can proceed to tiling the pre-leveled floor. To prepare it, it is best to use a self-leveling compound - you will need very little of it, and the floor will be perfectly level. A lot of useful information on working with these can be found in a special article on our portal.

Laying ceramic tiles on the floor has its own specific features - both in matters of choosing tiles and in the technology of working with them. More details about this can be found in a special publication on our portal.

Video: budget transformation of a toilet using ceramic tiles

PVC panels

It is much easier to attach PVC panels to walls than to lay tiles. Don't need any mortars, “dirty and wet” work. The panel mounting technology is simple and intuitive. The main thing is control maintaining verticality and horizontality, attentiveness and accuracy.

Plastic panels can be used to level any surface by correctly installing the sheathing, which will hide all the unevenness.

The panels, however, are not as durable as well-laid tiles, but their price is much lower. In addition, once they have made lathing on the walls for them, the owners have the opportunity to change the finishing material as they get tired of its colors, or when it takes on a sloppy appearance.

So, the work proceeds in stages as follows:

• Before attaching the panels to the walls, they are mounted on the ceiling. If you plan to install built-in lighting, then all measurements are made in advance, since the lamps have a certain height, and the ceiling will have to be lowered slightly when installing them.

An important note: the processes of covering the ceiling and walls with panels are somewhat spaced out in the article only for a better perception of the features. In fact, the lathing for both the ceiling and the walls is prepared at the same time, and only then do they move on to attaching the panels according to the “floor → ceiling” pattern.

— To do this, a lathing made of metal profiles or wooden blocks is fixed to the ceiling. Next, wiring is fixed between the elements of the sheathing - its ends are placed at the points where the lamps will be installed. It is clear that during installation the cables should not be connected to the power supply.

— At the joints of the sheathing and the wall, moldings are fixed for internal corners- they are placed at number four in the figure below. Cladding panels will be installed in their grooves.

— Holes are made on the panels for lighting elements.

• Wooden sheathing slats are secured to the primed surface of the walls using dowels. If you plan to install PVC lining vertically, then the sheathing is fixed horizontally, and vice versa - when installing it in a horizontal position, the sheathing is mounted vertically.

To save toilet space, the slats should not be thicker than 20 mm, and their width can be 30 mm or more. It is advisable to immediately align them vertically, making pads in the right places through which fasteners will pass, fixing both the rail and the pad on the wall at the same time.

The slats are installed at a distance of 400 ÷ 500 mm from each other.

The sheathing is usually attached to the wall using dowels. To do this, holes are drilled in the wall through slats, and then plastic dowels are driven into the wall. A strip is applied to the marked place and screwed to the wall with a self-tapping screw.

— Next, a guide is attached to the bottom rail into which the end parts of the panels will be inserted. To do this, you need a molding called “starter”; it is shown in the figure as number seven.

— Under the ceiling panels are inserted into moldings for internal corners, which have already been previously installed during the installation of ceiling panels.

— The same molding is installed in the vertical corners of the room, since panels of two planes will be joined there.

— Installation of the lining begins from the corner of the room, and the first panel must be inserted into the grooves of three moldings at once - upper, lower and corner. The panel must be leveled, since the evenness of the entire subsequent row will depend on it.

The lining must be secured to the sheathing and this can be done in several ways:

— Driving nails into the hidden part of the lining adjacent to the lath.

- Using special metal clamps, which are put on the narrow part of the groove of the lining, and nailed, screwed or stapled to the rail. They are convenient because, if necessary, one or more panels can be pulled out from the general row, without understanding everything designs.

— Special clips that do not require additional fastening. They are convenient, but ordinary lathing slats are not suitable for them, and you will need to purchase special guides into which such clips will be installed.

Prices for popular finishing wall panels

Wall panels

Video: example of wall decoration with PVC panels

Washable wallpaper

Wallpaper, which can be easily wet cleaned, is the most affordable type of finish for a toilet. If you approach the design process creatively and choose the right pattern and shade of wallpaper, you can create an interior that will not be worse than one made using tiles or PVC panels.

The only disadvantage of wallpaper is that its service life is much shorter than that of other materials, but its cost is several times lower. They are much more affordable for frequent replacement than tiles or lining.

In order for the wallpaper to look neat on the walls, the surfaces for it must be carefully prepared. The simplest and convenient way wall leveling is plasterboard sheets. As described above, installation of drywall is quite simple, and any wallpaper fits perfectly on its surface.

Washable wallpaper is glued in adjacent strips end to end. If a step-by-step drawing is applied to them, then it must be followed.

The ceiling can also be covered with wallpaper, the same as the walls, or lighter. Since light shades make the room much lighter, you can save on room lighting by installing lower-wattage bulbs.

For the wallpaper you will need to choose the right ceiling and floor skirting boards, which will harmoniously match the main decoration according to color scheme and style decision.

Plumbing installation

The final stage of the work is the return of the toilet, tank and sink to their place.

Toilet

Since the toilet, whatever one may say, is the most important element of the toilet room, it is installed first.

• To begin with, its location is marked. The toilet is placed on the floor and outlined with a marker. The places where it is attached to the floor are immediately marked, since it will be necessary to drill holes for the dowels.

• Next, the toilet is temporarily moved to the side, and the floor is drilled holes for fastenings into which dowels or anchors are driven.
• The toilet is installed in place and firmly screwed to the floor. Typically, the fastener kit includes plastic decorative caps that will cover the head of the bolt or stud.
• Next, the socket of the corrugated pipe is placed on the toilet pipe. The corrugation opens to the required length, bends and its second end, equipped with rubber sealing rings, is inserted into the socket of the sewer pipe.

• Then, you need to connect the tank to the toilet. Exist different models toilet sets with cistern.

— In some of them, the tank is installed and secured directly to a special toilet platform. In this case, the kit should include the necessary fasteners and sealing sealing elements, and mounting holes should be provided in the toilet and cistern.

- In other cases, the tank is mounted on the wall and connected to the toilet with a pipe that supplies water to it for flushing.

• After installing the tank and assembling the drainage mechanism in accordance with the instructions supplied with it, it is necessary to connect the water supply hose to the tank and to the corresponding fitting on the water supply.

• The last step in installing the toilet is to seal the gap between it and the floor using sealant; it will increase the reliability of the installation and make the joint neater.

There are a lot of toilet models, and it’s simply impossible to consider everything. Several can be found in a separate publication on our portal.

Sink

If you want to hide all the unsightly pipe connections under the sink, you should purchase a model installed on a pedestal. This structural element will cover all unsightly places and serve as reliable additional support for the bowl.

• Before fixing the sink to the wall, it is recommended to immediately install the mixer on it and connect flexible hoses to it. The upper part of the drainage system is also pre-installed, consisting of a socket and a piece of pipe on which the siphon will be installed in the future. After installing the sink in place, it will be extremely inconvenient to carry out these procedures.

• Next, the sink needs to be mounted on the wall. It can be installed on special brackets fixed in in the right place, or attached directly to the wall surface using anchors.
• After the sink is secured, the flexible hoses are screwed to the threaded fittings provided for water supply. It is recommended to additionally install taps on the fittings, which in case of emergency will help to locally shut off the water. In this case, the hoses are screwed to the threaded fitting of the faucet.

• Now it is necessary to install and seal the siphon, and then connect the corrugated waste hose coming from it into a sewer pipe prepared in the floor or wall, sealed with a special rubber coupling or cuff. The installation of a drain siphon ends with a mandatory leak test with a test run of water.
• The last step in installing the sink is covering all pipes and the siphon with a pedestal. It is installed under the sink and marks are made for drilling holes in the floor for fasteners.

Then the pedestal is removed, in the floor is drilled holes into which dowels or anchors are driven. After this, the pedestal is returned under the sink and secured to the floor. It should support the sink with its upper part.

After assembly - mandatory check by pouring a large amount of water

After completing the installation of plumbing, it is necessary to conduct a verification test for leaks. If there are no drops of water on the pipes and taps, it means that the installation was carried out efficiently and the plumbing is ready for use.

If the apartment owners have creative inclinations, Although would like some skills in construction, and The main thing- desire, then even with minimum budget You can put the toilet room in order.

Prices for various types of plumbing fixtures for toilets and bathrooms

Plumbing

Video: example of a major renovation of a bathroom

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 5 minutes

Usually, little attention is paid to toilet repairs and minimum size budget. But despite the fact that this is the most small room in an apartment, it can and should be made beautiful and comfortable. If you find it difficult to choose a material, no need to rack your brains: The best decision, although not the easiest to implement, - with tiled finishing. Photos, videos, instructions and useful tips will help you decide on the design and go through all the stages of work if you want to renovate this room yourself.

Selecting interior elements and thinking through design

First, decide what kind of plumbing fixtures will be in your toilet. During the renovation, you can combine a bathroom with a toilet or, conversely, separate them. Typically, a separate toilet is equipped with only a toilet or a sink is added.

There are many types of toilets in appearance and material. When choosing, you should focus on your own taste and budget.

What else can be placed in this room:

• bin;
• necessary accessories – holder for toilet paper, brush, etc;
• cabinet for detergents;
• sink and towel holder.

All elements can be selected in accordance with the overall design concept, creating an original and complete interior.

Typically, a separate toilet is the smallest room in the apartment. Its area can be 2–2.5 square meters. m. It would seem that such a modest space does not require sophisticated design. But with the right choice of materials, you can visually expand the room and raise the ceilings.

When planning a renovation, you need to decide on the following points:

• the need to level the walls, floor and ceiling;
• selection of finishing materials;
• thinking through lighting;
• choice of plumbing.

The toilet is the most important part of the room; the sequence of the entire renovation depends on it. If you want to change it, then you need to choose a new product before finishing the walls and ceiling.

Style for bathroom renovation

• Palace style. Baroque and Rococo involve the use of gilded details, rich decoration, elaborate lamps and many decorative elements.
• High tech. This style is characterized by the use of the most modern materials, minimalism in decoration, predominance of black and white colors.
• Japanese. This style involves minimalism in all details, the use simple shapes. The walls can be decorated with tiles with the image of sakura.

There are many design options for bathrooms and toilet rooms. You can stick to certain trends or combine several styles. Your imagination should not be limited by anything, including materials.

Selection of materials

The main requirement for all materials is hygiene. The toilet should always be clean, and it is advisable that cleaning does not take much time. That is why tiles are most often used to decorate walls and floors. It is easy to clean, is not susceptible to moisture and looks aesthetically pleasing.

There are several types of toilet tiles:

1. Glazed tiles are the most popular type of wall decoration. There are many tile design options to suit every taste and budget.
2. Regular ceramic tiles. It is thicker than tile and has a rough surface. Therefore, such tiles are most often placed on the floor in rooms with high humidity.
3. Porcelain. This glossy tiles, durable, less porous than ceramic, excellent moisture tolerance, scratch and wear resistant.
4. Majolica is an incredibly beautiful expensive Italian tile with a relief surface.
5. Porcelain tiles are durable, resistant to any impact, and easy to maintain. It can be matte, polished, satin, glazed, textured, providing wide design possibilities.

Repairs to the toilet can be carried out using other materials:

• wallpaper;
• plastic panels;
• dye.

But all of the listed types of finishes are inferior to tiles in terms of hygiene and resistance to moisture. In addition, variations in colors, patterns and textures of tiles exceed the design capabilities of other materials.

When choosing a color, remember that a small toilet will be visually expanded by light tiles.

Laying tiles with your own hands

After the installation under the toilet has been installed in the toilet, if necessary, you can begin finishing the walls, floor and ceiling. Follow the instructions, and then the repair will not take much time.

How to make a repair:

• The preparatory stage includes removing the old coating from the walls, ceiling and floor. All dirt and construction debris are removed from the toilet.
• The first step is to make a plasterboard box for the pipes to cover them, but at the same time provide access to them if necessary. Metal guides are attached to the floor and ceiling, and screwed to them with self-tapping screws. moisture resistant drywall.
• First you need to lay the tiles on the floor. It is filled with screed, and after it dries, flooring material is laid.

Materials for work:

1. tiles in two matching shades for the walls (top and bottom), transitional narrow tiles, and floor tiles. The number of tiles is selected in proportion to the area of ​​the walls and floor.
2. distribution flexible pipes;
3. toilet;
4. LED light bulbs;
5. plastic panels for the ceiling and metal profiles for them;
6. with a set of copper wires;
7. plytonite and grout;
8. door, door frame and locking device;
9. primer and a set of screws with dowels.

Repair of a small toilet in an apartment

Toilet repair small size is one of the most simple repairs which you can do yourself. The only thing you should not try to do yourself is to cut threads on the supply stationary pipes. Here you need to use the services of a plumbing specialist who will shut off the access to water and be able to do high-quality thread cutting. This responsible work, to perform it you will need a special expensive tool, which not every user has.

Preparing the room involves completely cleaning it. All old tiles from the floor and walls, as well as old plumbing, are completely removed. Surfaces are cleaned sandpaper, are cleaned of dust and a layer of soil is applied to them.

The next step is to apply plitonite. This is a very good, durable solution, which can be applied to perfectly level the walls. After this, the ceiling and lighting are installed. The work is not difficult in principle, but it requires painstaking and attentiveness. Then the tiles are glued sequentially, starting from the lower layers and ending with the upper ones. Each layer must be allowed to dry thoroughly. While gluing the tiles, its plane is adjusted using a mallet with rubber coating. After gluing the tiles, you need to install the hood and connect it to the light connector so that when the light is turned on, the fan will automatically start.

After the tile has dried, it is decorative grout and preparing a presentable appearance. Using anchors, the toilet is screwed to the floor and the supply pipes are connected. All are installed decorative elements necessary to give greater functionality to the room.

Repairing a toilet with your own hands is not a particularly difficult job - the combination of temperature and humidity in the toilet room rarely goes beyond what is normal for residential premises. You just need to remember that the toilet is an exclusively functional room, and everything in it should be completely subordinated specific purpose: ensure the best functioning of the smooth muscles of the excretory organs.

It does not at all follow from this that we will be talking about things that are inconceivable. On the contrary, we will describe how to do inexpensive repair toilet, turning it into a cozy, comfortable and peaceful room. Galen and Avicenna also wrote that for the sake of health and longevity, natural needs should be satisfied in a good mood and with pleasure. Modern medicine fully confirms their conclusions.

Repair stages

Step-by-step toilet repair includes the following stages of work:

1. choosing the type, location and method of installing the toilet;
2. design development;
3. selection and purchase of materials;
4. cleaning the floor, walls, ceiling;
5. laying communications;
6. floor repair;
7. installation of a plumbing cabinet;
8. repair of walls and ceilings;
9. floor finishing;
10. installation of lighting, ventilation, washbasin, urinal, bidet;
11. finishing of walls, cabinets, ceilings;
12. door replacement.

Repairs that do not involve replacement of plumbing fixtures and complex construction work(cosmetic) is much simpler and will be described in a separate section. Now let’s look at the stages of how to make repairs in the toilet.

Toilet

For this reason, in fact, the toilet was created. When choosing this device, you should first of all think: should you install wall hung toilet?

The faucet, washbasin spout and shower diffuser built into the wall are nothing more than a tribute to fashion. Their technical and economic feasibility, to put it mildly, is very, very doubtful: the slightest malfunction is tantamount to a breakthrough, hence the exorbitant high cost of the devices and their reliability by several times less. In some countries building codes They are already outright banned.

But the toilet is a completely different matter. The floor around its pedestal, and especially the nook under the outlet, is difficult to clean, and if you take a smear there and submit it for analysis to the SES... the faint of heart are asked to refrain from viewing.

Under the wall-hung toilet there is a flat, easy-to-clean floor. You can’t make a niche in the wall for it in our typical house - the wall thickness is not enough - but in any toilet there is a bracket for hanging and cistern They are very simply covered with a plumbing cabinet, which prevents dirt from accumulating in the nooks and crannies. And repairs small toilet in this case, it simultaneously solves another important sanitary and hygienic problem, which will be discussed in its place.

Design

The requirements for toilet design based on the needs of physiology are justified by a huge amount of material, from the works of archaeologists studying the camps of primitive people to latest research in molecular biology. It is based on a simple fact: biological evolution is proceeding at a snail’s pace compared to the development of civilization, and physiologically we are the same as our distant ancestors in skins and with a knotty oak tree in their hook hands.

Without going into details, which are not uninteresting for readers not prone to hypocrisy, but require a lot of space for description, let us summarize:

• Small details, especially colorful ones, are unacceptable: they create a subconscious feeling of anxiety that disrupts bowel function.
• You should also avoid bright, saturated and flashy tones in the color scheme; Pastel colors are preferred.
• The overall tone should “cool” from bottom to top, losing at the same time its richness.
• Solid vertical planes that create the impression of open space are also undesirable.
• The walls should be divided vertically into two sections: from the floor to the level of the occupant’s eyes or chin and higher - to the ceiling.
• Dense planes hanging over the head also have a bad effect on physiology.

Note: Pastel colors are also good because the inevitable change in color tone in the toilet (see below) is not so noticeable.

Based on this, a physiologically justified toilet color design looks something like this:

1. The floor is quite dark, yellowish, brownish or grayish.
2. Walls to a height of 90-120 cm (3-4 rows of 30x30cm tiles) are unsaturated red-brown with specks or very light gray, also with specks.
3. The walls above and up to the ceiling are beige, mustard, cream, etc. It can be with a flat relief or a faded blurred pattern.
4. The ceiling is pale blue, pale cream or pearl gray.

Materials

When choosing materials for toilet renovation, you need to consider the following:

• A lot is spilled on the floor in the toilet in exceptional cases, but what is spilled even in insignificant quantities is saturated with BAS (biologically active substances) and very active chemical compounds.
• A little evaporation into the air in the toilet compared to the bathroom, but most of the evaporation consists of chemically active, strong and unpleasant-smelling substances: ammonia, unsaturated and cyclic hydrocarbons, etc.

Such circumstances impose certain restrictions on the selection of materials:

1. Any wood and products based on it (MDF, laminate) should be discarded - they are porous and organic. The fact that small splashes from a foolish child or a bad guest are immediately absorbed is good only at first glance. In fact, a teak, yew or cork floor that is pleasant to the touch and pleasing to the eye will quickly become a paradise for germs. They do not spray on the ceiling, but the vapors rise primarily to it.
2. Also undesirable are tiles based on ordinary silicates (not white on the inside). Chemically it is neutral, but there are a lot of micropores in it, and it absorbs and retains odors well. You will have to use deodorant more often, but it costs money and is not a natural part of the air.
3. Washable PVC wallpaper should be treated with caution due to the filler. It can also absorb volatile compounds. You should buy either certified ones or from a trusted manufacturer.
4. A regular floor screed is also undesirable, even with the addition of a polymer emulsion: its moisture absorption coefficient can reach 0.4% by volume. This is more than good for the bathroom, but in the toilet what gets on the floor is not water with a small admixture of fragrant shampoo.
5. Armstrong suspended ceiling is excluded: it is highly porous and is also made from chemically unstable organic matter - paper production waste.
6. Any paper wallpaper, no matter how they are modified - for the same reason.
7. Any paints with organic pigment and filler: from the most insignificant miasma they very soon turn yellow, gray and take on a completely disgusting appearance.
8. Foam ceiling panels- for the same reason.

We recommend the following for toilet repair:

• The cladding is porcelain stoneware. Dense, chemical-resistant and durable material is slightly more expensive than tiles. And its percentage of manufacturing defects is much lower than that of inexpensive tiles, so overall it comes out cheaper.
• Tile - earthenware or other kaolin-based tile (white on the inside and with a shiny fine-grained fracture).
• Paints are based on mineral pigment and marble flour filler (microcalcite). It is somewhat worse with dolomite flour filler, but with skillful painting they are also enough for 7-10 years.
• Washable wallpaper is made from polypropylene, polyester or foam.
• Drywall - only moisture resistant, green.
• Profiles for drywall - galvanized or aluminum.
• Plaster - any kind, but with obligatory impregnation using a roller after hardening with a primer for deep penetration concrete.
• Waterproofing - aquaizol or polyester.
• Floor screed – base and liquid polymer finishing.

Note: self-leveling floors were invented primarily for toilets, as a replacement for the useless cement-sand screed. They are not cheap, but the cost for the toilet is small. If we take into account bedding, selected sand, reinforcement, beacons, tools for concrete screed, but in a small area, self-leveling flooring is even cheaper.

Sewer replacement

Replacing a sewer system in an apartment is a complex and difficult job. Here we will just add a little: in front of the cross, it is advisable to insert a tee with a 32 mm pipe into the outlet from the bathroom and kitchen. When renovating a small toilet in panel house it will be very useful, see the section on the construction of a washbasin in a Khrushchev toilet.

Cleaning the premises

Cleaning a toilet before renovation is easier than cleaning a bathroom, but it has its own characteristics:

1. Before removing the floor, carefully inspect the toilet mountings (it is assumed that all plumbing has been removed immediately). The labor intensity of floor work and the cost of it largely depend on their condition, see the section on floor repair.
2. Both the floor and the walls do not need to be pulled down to the bare masonry, slab or ceiling: the bulk of the plaster and screed in toilets, as a rule, do not deteriorate even in damp block Khrushchev buildings.
3. You can knock down the tiles rough, without cleaning the floor until smooth surface: at self-leveling screed minor irregularities are insignificant.
4. The paint and top layer of plaster on the ceiling and walls are dusty, but easy to clean with a drill and a round wire brush. With some skill, you can then immediately paint, glue tiles and wallpaper.
5. The skill of cleaning with a brush is developed quite quickly, so it is better to start cleaning from surfaces that will later be covered with a bathroom cabinet: there the flaws will disappear forever.
6. Upon completion of cleaning, the walls and ceiling should be vacuumed and treated with a roller with a deep penetration primer for concrete. While you are working on the floor, the walls and ceiling will be completely ready for painting, gluing and cladding.

Laying communications

If a toilet is being repaired in a Khrushchev-era building, then there is no choice regarding hydraulics and sewerage: they remain where they were. The mini-washbasin (which will be discussed later) does not require much trouble.

In cases where the area of ​​the room allows for the installation of additional sanitary and hygienic devices, the pipes to them will have to be hidden in the walls, otherwise they will spoil the whole appearance. The installation technology is the same as in the bathroom: solid soldered propylene on solid propylene fittings in grooves. Upon completion of installation, the grooves are foamed. There are two features, as the Americans say, good and bad:

• There is no need to plaster the grooves in the walls: they will be perfectly sealed with tiles.
• It is impossible to hide pipes in the floor or run them in a bunch in the corners, covering them with slopes: the first will create places where miasma accumulates, and the second, in addition, will be conspicuous and will noticeably reduce the floor area, which is already not redundant. So using a hammer drill with a chisel on concrete will have to work hard.

If “replacement” is understood as removing, painting and installing again, then remember: you need to paint only in a horizontal position, otherwise it will not do without drips. The paint is the same as others for the toilet. Whitewash, in order of preference - titanium, lead (don't worry, this is not free lead, they are not poisonous), zinc. The latter turn yellow after 3-4 years from traces of ammonia in the air; titanium ones are almost eternal.

Redecorating

Cosmetic renovation of a toilet assumes that the matter is limited to finishing and painting, and all plumbing fixtures remain in place. The finishing of the walls and ceiling in this case does not differ from that already described, but we deal with the floor more simply:

• We remove the baseboard.
• We seal the perimeter of the room and the circumference of the riser (or the contour of the cross, if it is semi-recessed into the floor) with silicone.
• Option 1: pour liquid polymer self-leveling floor onto the floor directly over the previous tiles in a layer of 10-15 mm. Calculation of volume - based on the area of ​​the room.
• Option 2: we lay marmoleum, having first removed the toilet. Cheaper, and rusted fasteners can be replaced. If the fastenings are in good working order, we make cross-shaped cuts on the marmoleum sheet in the places for the bolts (this way you don’t need to measure with pinpoint precision), and after laying the excess is cut off with a mounting knife.
• We put the plinth in place - you're done.

Toilet BEFORE and AFTER cosmetic repairs without replacing communications

Toilet with washbasin in Khrushchev

Look again at the drawing of the bathroom cabinet. Yes, there is a small washstand there, and you can wash your hands right there. But where can I get one? In railway cars they even cost more... Do it yourself:

1. The spout is ready-made, like a goose, with as little carry-out as possible.
2. The sink is a plastic, reusable deep bowl with a narrow bottom and a bent top edge. The choice is rich, the prices are inexpensive.
3. Water supply is via metal-plastic pipes, like in a kitchen sink from tees on the pipes.
4. The outlet is a 32 mm corrugated tee on the outlet from the bathtub to the kitchen (that’s what it’s for!).
5. Siphon - due to the bending of the corrugation.

An alternative is a miniature sink. But you'll have to look for it.

How do you get a shell from a bowl? First, in the center of the bottom of the bowl we drill 4 holes of 4 mm each, inscribed in a circle with a diameter of 30 mm; this will be the grid. Then we cut out a 12-18 mm round boss from plywood: the outer diameter is the diameter of the bottom of the bowl, excluding the collar; internal – 35 mm. We impregnate the boss with PVA emulsion. Then we glue the boss with AQUARIUM silicone glue to the bottom of the bowl and use the same silicone to glue the corrugation into it.

Now all that remains is to cut out holes for the bowl in the shelf of the cabinet using a compass drill for stone (the cabinet is already tiled) with a diameter along the upper diameter of the bowl; then it will lie with its bent edge on the shelf and under the spout. The main thing is not to make a mistake with the markings: the water should flow slightly away from the very center of the sink-bowl so as not to splash on the mesh.

And finally, we fix the mini-sink with silicone, now cheaper construction material. We insert the corrugation into the sewer pipe and seal it with the same silicone. In the closet, we put a fastening nut on the spout handles, take them out, attach them to the spout fittings, insert it into place, secure it with the nut - the mini washstand is ready.

Note: Do not glue the boss with construction silicone or superglue (cyanoacrylate glue). The first one is not strong enough, and the joint on the second one will fall apart in six months or a year.

Bottom line

Self-repair of a toilet can be done by an average home craftsman. In addition to significant money savings, this will give you experience with which you can get started.

The toilet is one of the most visited places in the apartment, where, in addition to performing its main utilitarian function, you can retire and indulge in reflection. Therefore, it is important that this room is cozy, clean, comfortable, so that it is pleasant to be in it. Many apartments still have toilets old building with morally and physically outdated plumbing and cladding. And new construction and finishing materials have appeared in stores, which cannot but stimulate changes in the design of the bathroom. Since repairs involving a construction team are quite expensive, and the area of ​​the room is usually small, it is worth trying to repair the toilet yourself - a person with “hands” can do it more or less.

Preparing for toilet renovation

First, you should decide on the idea of ​​​​the future appearance of the bathroom, as well as what kind of repairs are to be made - cosmetic or major. Cosmetic repairs only include new finishing walls, floor and ceiling - for example, you can paint the door, paint the ceiling or make it suspended, prime the walls, putty, paint or wallpaper. But if you’re going to start renovating a bathroom, you should do it thoroughly, with replacement of pipes, coatings and plumbing fixtures, and sometimes you can add new elements to the room or move existing ones.

Renovation ideas may be related to the traditional look of the restroom, or they may suggest a new arrangement of plumbing, furniture and communications. In a small room, for example, in a Khrushchev-era building, there will, of course, be fewer options than in a more spacious one in a new house, but it doesn’t matter - with proper planning, you can profitably use every piece of space. You need to choose suitable finishing materials and think through the design, which we will discuss below. If you wish and space allows, you can install a small washbasin in the toilet - today on the market there is a choice of something that will suit the price and size. It would be useful next to the sink. Installing a corner toilet, especially in combination with a corner washbasin, will significantly free up space, but for this you will have to do more manipulations.

In a more spacious toilet you can put more useful furniture and equipment - bidets, washing machine, hang cabinets, shelves, even place decorative elements. For beauty and convenience, it is worth considering masking communications and equipping a plumbing cabinet.

So, where to start with toilet repairs carried out on our own? The procedure is usually standard:

• determination with toilet design;
• selection and purchase of finishing and building materials;
• choosing the type and location of the toilet;
• replacement of riser and sewer;
• cleaning the floor, walls, ceiling from old finishes;
• laying communications;
• repair of floors, walls and ceilings;
• floor finishing;
• toilet installation;
• installation of a plumbing cabinet, lighting, and other plumbing fixtures;
• other finishing works;
• finishing or replacing the door.

Selection of design and facing materials

The interior design of the toilet, depending on the size of its area, should be appropriate: visually expand a small area, narrow a large one. You can visually zoom in too close high ceilings. All this is possible with the help of some techniques of combining colors and textures.

Most often, toilet rooms in apartments are quite small and narrow. In this case, it will help to visually make it wider by dividing the wall decoration horizontally into two parts - upper and lower with a border on about half the wall. In this case, the lower part should be darker or brighter, and the upper part should be more neutral and lighter. If the ceiling is too high, then vertical stripes running along the walls will help to visually bring it closer. They can be made solid or in the form of an interrupted line, as well as from some of the materials used in finishing the floor or completely different ones, to match the overall style.

It’s not worth decorating the bathroom in only one color - the look will not be the one expected, and it won’t add comfort.

It is better to choose materials in discreet, neutral colors with the addition of accessories in similar colors - this is more physiological for such a room, and it will be easier to remodel the interior with the advent of new ideas, and it will be easier to correlate with the overall design style of the apartment. Plumbing fixtures can be chosen traditionally white or to match the color of the finish. Chrome accessories can also play the role of expansion.

At larger area You can give free rein to your imagination a little, especially since modern ideas interior design allows this. Dark or bright finishing colors will visually narrow the room, and bright accessories will allow self-expression to manifest itself.

When choosing finishing materials for a bathroom, you need to take into account the characteristics of the room, so such materials should be:

• moisture resistant;
• easy to clean, including with aggressive agents;
• do not absorb unpleasant odors;
• do not take up much space.

The most suitable materials To decorate a toilet with your own hands, you can consider tiles, washable wallpaper, moisture-resistant paint, and plastic panels.

It is better to choose tiles from tiles, porcelain stoneware, the main thing is that the reverse side is white, that is, based on kaolin. It does not have as many micropores as tiles made from ordinary silicates, and does not absorb odors, which is very unpleasant in the toilet.

This finishing material is considered classic for sanitary facilities, since the tiles are easy to clean, they are durable, moisture-resistant, and durable. Choosing her on modern market is huge, and you can independently choose various original combinations. But you need to lay the tiles on perfectly smooth walls, and the price of such a finish will be the highest of all the options.

Wallpaper for the toilet should be moisture-resistant and easy to clean. Therefore, it is better to choose vinyl, non-woven, fiberglass. A new product on the market of finishing materials is also suitable - liquid wallpaper, which also has the necessary qualities, is also easy to apply and has a wide variety of colors.

Bathroom paint is one of the budget finishing options, suitable for ceilings and walls. It is easy to apply even for a non-specialist; you can add different patterns and designs if desired. For the toilet, latex-based paint or mineral pigment paint with microcalcite filler is suitable. But painting is carried out with perfectly smooth walls, which requires their preliminary alignment.

Plastic panels are one of the cheapest options for finishing walls and ceilings. They are moisture-resistant, quick to install and easy to clean, have a variety of designs, and do not require perfectly flat walls. But given that the panels are mainly attached to the sheathing, they can steal part usable area toilet, which is in a small room at 1.5-2 square meters it would be completely inappropriate.

In addition to the materials described above, you can use moisture-resistant green plasterboard, plaster, followed by impregnation with a deep penetration primer.

Wooden and MDF panels, paper wallpaper, etc. are not suitable for bathroom cladding. regular drywall, silicate-based tiles (not white on the back side), paints with organic pigment and filler, foam panels for the ceiling and a regular concrete screed for the floor.

Preliminary cleaning of surfaces and replacement of communications

So, where to start renovating a toilet when the design is thought out and facing materials purchased? Now is the time to start dismantling the old plumbing and coverings and, if necessary, replacing the riser and sewer pipes.

First you need to turn off the hot and cold water, make sure that there is no water flowing from the taps, then drain the water from the tank. Then proceed to dismantle the drain tank - from it and from water pipe the water supply hose is disconnected, and then the tank itself is unscrewed from its fastenings. After this, you can begin dismantling the toilet. If the toilet was fixed to the floor with bolts or screws, then they are unscrewed with a key or a screwdriver and taken out of the room. If concrete mortar was used during installation, then in most cases old toilet just break it and replace it with a new one.

It's time to start removing old coatings from the floor, walls and ceiling. This is necessary so that the new cladding does not begin to peel off over time, and the old one has accumulated a lot of odors. Old tiles It is removed from the walls and floor using a hammer drill or, in its absence, a hammer and chisel. Paint can be removed using construction hair dryer and a spatula, or a drill or sander with a round metal brush - the top layer of plaster is also removed. More thick layer the latter is removed with a spatula, having previously soaked the surface. The same method is also suitable for removing old wallpaper.

After removing the old cladding, the surfaces need to be well leveled, the debris taken out, brushed again, and best of all, a powerful vacuum cleaner is used to remove all the dust. After this, a deep penetration antiseptic primer is applied, preferably in two layers - the second after the first has dried.

You should consider waterproofing the floor in case of possible accidents and water leaks, to avoid flooding lower floors. The most accessible is coating waterproofing, applied to the joints of walls and floors 15-18 cm wide; waterproofing tape is glued to it directly while drying. After the joints have dried, this mixture is applied to the entire floor.

After the above-described manipulations, you can begin replacing the pipes. It is best to replace old metal pipes with propylene ones - they are more resistant to aggressive substances. It is better to replace the sewer riser completely in the entire entrance, especially if it is old and has been in use for a long time - this must first be organized together with the neighbors. Replacing part of the riser will be much more troublesome. If you do not plan to install water filters and water meters, then simply install new ones plastic pipes in place of the old ones.

For a more aesthetic appearance, water and sewer pipes are hidden in a special plumbing cabinet, which is constructed from wooden or metal profiles, leveled and fastened together with self-tapping screws. The structure is sheathed with moisture-resistant green plasterboard, which can be decorated with other finishing materials on top. Separate boxes can be built for sewer riser and for ventilation, having previously equipped it exhaust fan. It is imperative to consider the location of the inspection door in order to provide access to the pipes in case of leaks, and simply for taking readings from instruments.

Repair of floors, walls and ceilings. Lighting selection

Do-it-yourself toilet repair, after cleaning the surfaces of old coatings and replacing communications, continues with leveling and finishing the floor.

The floor in the toilet is simpler and best done by self-leveling - a liquid polymer finishing is also used for this. With the help of special tools, the prepared solutions are quickly leveled - one day after the other. Considering the area of ​​the toilet, the price of such finishing will be quite affordable.

Self-leveling 3D floors

Floor finishing ceramic tiles remains one of the best and most practical options for the bathroom, but the installation process is more labor-intensive. It can be laid on old concrete or new cement screed.

As an option, you can lay marmoleum - a natural linoleum that has bactericidal properties, which is suitable for the bathroom.

The height of the floor in the toilet should be 2-3 centimeters lower than the general floor level in the apartment. This is necessary in order to retain water for some time in case of flooding, which may have time to save the situation.

Repairing walls can consist of several stages, depending on their original condition and the desired appearance. If they are uneven, then you first need to level them using putty or sheets of drywall (preferably waterproof). Drywall sheets are attached to the wall using special glue, or to a thin wooden sheathing if the walls have significant unevenness. The selected wall finish is applied on top of the prepared surface - we talked about it above.

Ceiling repairs are carried out in the same way as in other rooms. Having leveled it, if necessary, with putty, you can apply paint with suitable composition, or finish with PVC panels, having previously attached the lathing. If desired, you can build suspended ceiling from drywall, on which LED spotlights will look good.

If you are going to add beauty to the toilet, you should not ignore the lighting in it. The commonly used chandelier with a light bulb above the door produces too dim and dim light. A large sconce on the wall or spot LED lighting under the ceiling will look much better. When choosing lamps, you should take into account the overall design of the bathroom and its area - a small room needs bright light.

Installation of plumbing in the toilet

The final moment of the repair is the installation of the toilet and other plumbing fixtures, if any. After carefully studying the manufacturer's instructions, you can handle the process yourself. The floor-standing toilet is installed in a pre-selected place, or where it was previously, the mounting location is outlined with a marker, and holes for fastenings are drilled. Trying on a new one corrugated pipe to the toilet and to the sewer pipe opening. Having attached the toilet to the floor, you can install the corrugation; all joints should be well treated with sealant. Having understood the design of the cistern, it is connected to the water pipes.

If a wall-hung toilet is selected, it is mounted on a special triangular bracket, which is constructed in advance. The bracket frame is either mounted into the screed of the self-leveling floor, or attached to the floor with anchor pins. All extra elements hiding in the plumbing closet.

Once you've got the hang of a toilet renovation, you can hit the ground running, saving money and gaining valuable experience that can be useful on larger projects.