Instructions for thrifty owners: how to make a heating radiator with your own hands? Homemade radiator. Register options. Power calculation, preparation and manufacturing process

Reliable and high-quality heating radiators can be purchased in almost any hardware store. But sometimes situations arise in which the only right solution is homemade heating radiators made from pipes. Of course, such radiators cannot be used on a permanent basis in a residential area, but, for example, they are quite suitable for heating a garage.

Do-it-yourself heating battery made from pipes

Design features homemade battery

We will make the battery from a 2-meter steel pipe with a diameter of 100 millimeters. Both ends of the product must be welded, and a pair of squeegees must be welded directly on its plane, through which the working fluid will be supplied and discharged from the heating network.

What will the job require?

To make a homemade heating radiator, we will need the following equipment and consumables.

Welding machine, electrodes for it	A pair of special bends of the required diameter	Bulgarian
Sheet of steel 3 mm thick and dimensions 10x60 cm	Steel VGP pipe 0.3 m long	Steel pipe with a diameter of 10 cm and a length of 20 cm

Having prepared everything necessary, we proceed directly to the manufacture of the battery.

Instructions for making a heating radiator

In order to end up with an effective and high-quality product, you need to do everything strictly according to technological instructions. Of course, we start by cutting a large steel pipe using a grinder.

Upon completion of all preparatory activities, we check finished design for strength and tightness. In order to check whether the radiator is leaking, we close one of its flows, and fill the second with the required amount of liquid. In this simple way we can identify even the most minor leaks in the battery. And if they - leaks - are detected, then we drain the water from the product and re-weld all its areas that were welded poorly.

Note! The cost of such a homemade battery is measured in several hundred rubles, while a “store-bought” analogue will cost at least three times more.

Video - How to make a heating battery

Important points

Before you begin manufacturing, you should understand a number of important points regarding this important procedure. So, first you need to make a list necessary materials and decide on the configuration of the future battery. As a rule, no difficulties arise with materials: the most suitable option for the manufacture of a radiator - metal pipes having the maximum possible diameter.

But in order to save on this vital material, we recommend going to the nearest scrap metal collection point - there various pipes more than enough. This simple “maneuver” will allow you to save a lot.

Note! The most important characteristic any heating equipment– this is its power (in terms of heat transfer). However, it is impossible to find out the technical parameters of each material. That is why in our calculations we will proceed from the general parameters of standard cast iron radiators.

It is worth noting that to calculate power, the following points must be taken into account:

• battery weight;
• the weight of the working fluid that will be in it;
• total area heating device;
• thermal conductivity.

If we compare the thermal parameters of steel and cast iron, there are practically no differences. Therefore, regardless of which material was chosen, we will start from general characteristics both materials.

The most important difference between a factory battery and a “homemade” one is the total area. For self-made devices it is usually less. Although this point is not particularly important, since the thermal conductivity of steel exceeds that of cast iron. Consequently, the difference in area is compensated.

Example of calculations.

For informational purposes, here is one simple example. Let's say we have a factory cast-iron radiator with ten registers, and each of them holds about 1.5 liters of working fluid. Thermal power one register is 160 watts. What is all this for? And in order to comparative analysis we found that a homemade battery must hold at least 14.5 liters of working fluid.

To make a homemade heating radiator from pipes, you need to use an ordinary steel pipe with a diameter of about 10 centimeters. As for the thickness of the walls of the product, it should be 0.35 centimeters. It turns out that the internal diameter of such a pipe will be equal to 9.5 centimeters. Next, we calculate the total cross-sectional area of ​​the product - it turns out to be almost 71 centimeters.

After this, we perform the simplest division of the total capacity by the cross-sectional area (71 centimeters) - this will allow us to determine the required length of the pipe. IN in this case it is 2 meters 5 centimeters. A product of this exact length will be required in the manufacture of one heating battery.

Installing a homemade battery

Installing a radiator done by yourself requires not only basic knowledge in the field of installation processes, but also some experience in this kind of matter. And in order for all the necessary actions to be performed correctly, we must take care of all the equipment necessary in this case.

Tape measure	A set of keys for assembly	Electric drill, as well as a set of drills for it
Pencil	adjustable wrench	Building level

And only when we have all the equipment at hand can we safely begin to work. But before this, of course, you should dismantle the old heating devices (if any). The algorithm of actions should be as follows.

Replacing heating batteries in an apartment

Previously, we talked in detail about how to change old battery in the apartment, in addition to this article, we advise you to read this information

Here's how to install the heating system (briefly). We mark out fasteners for radiators and perform installation. We install the radiator(s) on the prepared fasteners. Then we complete the heating system with everything necessary elements, that is, taps and plugs. After this, we install the head with the tap in place (the latter is necessary to activate it). The final step will be connecting the new radiator (or radiators) to the main heating main. Now let's take a closer look at how all this should look.

Video - Installing heating radiators

Possible installation errors

In order to avoid any technical difficulties after installation, it is necessary to provide for common errors that are often made during operation. So, if you install batteries less than 7 centimeters from the floor surface, then in the future we will be faced with the difficulty of not only cleaning underneath them, but also with heat exchange in the room. On the contrary, if you install the batteries higher than 15 centimeters, then, most likely, significant temperature changes will occur.

In addition, heat transfer may deteriorate if the radiator is installed close to the wall. Also, do not forget that you should not cover homemade pipe heating radiators with decorative grilles - this will lead to a decrease in their power.

Replacing batteries

If radiators need to be replaced, then it is advisable to start work in the warm season. The fact is that the heating is turned off during this period, so dismantling/installation can be carried out without any difficulties. Often, replacement is required if the equipment wears out or, alternatively, if it is necessary to reduce the number of sections. By the way, we prepare not only the batteries for replacement, but also the wall surfaces located behind them.

Note! We putty, level and paint the walls before installation, since after installation, as noted above, this will not be possible.

Video - Replacing radiators

Comparison of types of heating batteries - looking for the best

Previously we reviewed and compared different kinds heating radiators, thereby identifying their positive and negative sides, in addition to this article, we advise you to read this information

Factory-produced heating batteries

Radiators made from pipes are also produced by industry. These products are heat engineering devices that consist of upper/lower manifolds. Both elements are connected by vertical tubes arranged in two or three rows. But the fins, due to which they often increase usable area, is absent in this case. For heat exchangers, products with a diameter of 2.5 centimeters are used, and for collectors - 5 centimeters.

The maximum permissible pressure for such radiators is 12 atmospheres, and due to the fact that the surfaces of the pipes are galvanized, the products are more resistant to rust. Rolled steel, used for this, has a thickness of 0.15 centimeters. As for the layout in relation to collectors, it can be:

• with perpendicular heat exchanger;
• parallel.

If we take into account all the technical parameters, then tubular radiators must be used in public facilities and small-apartment urban buildings. Thanks to their attractive design, such products will easily fit into any interior, and due to the fact that they do not have any sharp corners, they can be installed even in preschool/school institutions, as well as in medical institutions. Finally, thanks to the missing fins, cleaning surfaces from dust takes just a few seconds.

That's all. Good luck with making the radiator and, of course, warm winters!

This question is most often asked by computer scientists, and not always professional ones. The fact is that many system units have an aluminum radiator installed. It cools the hardware quite normally in a state of not very active operation, but when starting many modern games no longer able to cope with his work. Therefore, sometimes you need to make a radiator from copper, a more thermally conductive metal. Of course, you can purchase it, but the cost of creating it yourself is much lower. To create a radiator at home, you will first need the material itself - highly thermally conductive metal. In this case it is copper. It is quite difficult to get it. You can contact non-ferrous metal collection points. What is needed is thin sheet, from which the radiator fins will be made. You also need to acquire metal scissors in advance.

To connect copper plates and form a solid sheet on one side, you will need a galvanic bath, for which you need to find a vessel that is resistant to aggressive environments. Before calculating the number of radiator sections, you need to measure the length and height of the area that will need to be cooled. The height or length, depending on whether the plates will be placed vertically or horizontally, must be marked so that the distance between the sections is 2-3 millimeters. Such frequent placement will achieve the best effect. Next, you need to take a thin sheet of copper and cut plates from it. If you are replacing an aluminum radiator with a copper one, it is convenient to cut the copper plates to the size of the aluminum ones. That is, before replacing the radiator, you can create a more advanced object in its likeness. So, the cut copper plates are collected in a stack and on one side are joined together using a galvanic bath. After this, you need to drill holes in all the plates for stringing them.

It is also important to separate the plates with wire, which must have insulation. If everything is done correctly, the plates will be overgrown on one side, and you will get a solid plane. Thus, the radiator base is ready, the plates are well separated. If the radiator was created for a computer, you must also drill holes corresponding system unit. Thus, before choosing a radiator in a store, you should think about whether it would be better to create it yourself? Yes, in appearance it will, of course, be inferior to the factory analogue. However, often factory radiators, especially those produced by small companies that value their reputation, cannot ensure the reliability of a home-made item. And in the case of radiators manufactured under the trademark of a well-known brand, the price is usually radically inflated.

The installation or reconstruction of a heating system involves the installation or replacement of heating devices. The good news is that, if you wish, you can handle this yourself without the involvement of specialists. How heating radiators should be installed, where and how to place them, what is needed to carry out the work - all this is in the article.

What is needed for installation

Installation of heating radiators of any type requires devices and consumables. Kit necessary materials almost the same, but for cast iron batteries, for example, plugs are included big size, but they don’t install a Mayevsky valve, but instead, somewhere at the highest point of the system, they install an automatic air vent. But the installation of aluminum and bimetallic heating radiators is absolutely the same.

Steel panel panels also have some differences, but only in terms of hanging - they come with brackets, and on the back panel there are special arms cast from metal, which heating device clings to the hooks of the brackets.

Mayevsky crane or automatic air vent

This is a small device for releasing air that may accumulate in the radiator. Placed on the free upper outlet (collector). It must be on every heating device when installing aluminum and bimetallic radiators. The size of this device is significantly smaller than the diameter of the manifold, so you will also need an adapter, but Mayevsky taps usually come complete with adapters, you just need to know the diameter of the manifold (connection dimensions).

In addition to the Mayevsky crane, there are also automatic air vents. They can also be installed on radiators, but they are slightly larger in size and for some reason are only available in a brass or nickel-plated case. Not in white enamel. In general, the picture is unattractive and, although they deflate automatically, they are rarely installed.

Stub

The radiator with side connections has four outputs. Two of them are occupied by the supply and return pipelines, and the Mayevsky valve is installed on the third. The fourth entrance is closed with a plug. It, like most modern batteries, is most often painted with white enamel and does not spoil the appearance at all.

Shut-off valves

You will need two more ball valves or shut-off valves that can be adjusted. They are placed on each battery at the input and output. If these are ordinary ball valves, they are needed so that, if necessary, you can turn off the radiator and remove it (emergency repairs, replacement during heating season). In this case, even if something happens to the radiator, you will cut it off, and the rest of the system will work. The advantage of this solution is the low price of ball valves, the disadvantage is the impossibility of adjusting the heat transfer.

Almost the same tasks, but with the ability to change the intensity of the coolant flow, are performed by shut-off control valves. They are more expensive, but they also allow you to adjust the heat transfer (make it less), and they look better externally; they are available in straight and angular versions, so the piping itself is more accurate.

If desired, you can install a thermostat on the coolant supply after the ball valve. This is a relatively small device that allows you to change the heat output of a heating device. If the radiator does not heat well, you cannot install them - it will be even worse, since they can only reduce the flow. There are different thermostats for batteries - automatic electronic ones, but more often they use the simplest one - mechanical.

Related materials and tools

You will also need hooks or brackets for hanging on walls. Their number depends on the size of the batteries:

• if there are no more than 8 sections or the length of the radiator is no more than 1.2 m, two attachment points on top and one on the bottom are sufficient;
• For every next 50 cm or 5-6 sections, add one fastener at the top and bottom.

You also need fum tape or linen winding and plumbing paste to seal the joints. You will also need a drill with drills, a level (preferably a level, but a regular bubble one will do), and a number of dowels. You will also need equipment for connecting pipes and fittings, but it depends on the type of pipes. That's all.

Where and how to place

Traditionally, heating radiators are installed under the window. This is necessary so that the rising warm air cut off the cold from the window. To prevent the glass from sweating, the width of the heating device must be at least 70-75% of the width of the window. It must be installed:

How to install correctly

Now about how to hang the radiator. It is very desirable that the wall behind the radiator is level - this makes it easier to work. Mark the middle of the opening on the wall, draw a horizontal line 10-12 cm below the window sill line. This is the line along which the top edge of the heating device is leveled. The brackets must be installed so that the top edge coincides with the drawn line, that is, it is horizontal. This arrangement is suitable for heating systems with forced circulation (with a pump) or for apartments. For systems with natural circulation make a slight slope - 1-1.5% - along the flow of the coolant. You can’t do more - there will be stagnation.

Wall mount

This must be taken into account when installing hooks or brackets for heating radiators. Hooks are installed like dowels - a hole of a suitable diameter is drilled in the wall, a plastic dowel is installed in it, and the hook is screwed into it. The distance from the wall to the heating device is easily adjusted by screwing in and unscrewing the hook body.

Hooks for cast iron batteries are thicker. This is a fastener for aluminum and bimetallic

When installing hooks under heating radiators, keep in mind that the main load falls on the upper fasteners. The lower one serves only to fix it in a given position relative to the wall and is installed 1-1.5 cm lower than the lower collector. Otherwise, you simply will not be able to hang the radiator.

When installing the brackets, they are applied to the wall in the place where they will be mounted. To do this, first attach the battery to the installation location, see where the bracket “fits,” and mark the location on the wall. After placing the battery, you can attach the bracket to the wall and mark the location of the fasteners on it. In these places, holes are drilled, dowels are inserted, and the bracket is screwed. Having installed all the fasteners, hang the heating device on them.

Floor fixing

Not all walls can hold even light ones aluminum batteries. If the walls are made of or covered with plasterboard, it is required floor installation. Some types of cast iron and steel radiators come directly with legs, but not everyone is satisfied with their appearance or characteristics.

Floor installation of heating radiators made of aluminum and bimetallic is possible. There are special brackets for them. They are attached to the floor, then the heating device is installed, the lower collector is secured with an arc to installed legs. Similar legs are available with adjustable height and some with a fixed height. The method of fastening to the floor is standard - with nails or dowels, depending on the material.

Options for piping heating radiators

Installation of heating radiators involves connecting them to pipelines. There are three main connection methods:

• saddle;
• one-sided;
• diagonal.

If you install radiators and bottom connection, you have no choice. Each manufacturer strictly binds the supply and return, and its recommendations must be strictly followed, since otherwise you simply will not get heat. There are more options with a side connection ().

Strapping with one-sided connection

One-way connection is most often used in apartments. It can be double-pipe or single-pipe (the most common option). Metal pipes are still used in apartments, so let’s consider the option of tying the radiator with steel pipes on pipes. In addition to pipes of a suitable diameter, you need two ball valves, two tees and two bends - parts with external threads at both ends.

All this is connected as shown in the photo. At single pipe system a bypass is required - it allows you to turn off the radiator without stopping or draining the system. You cannot put the tap on the bypass - you will block the flow of coolant through the riser with it, which is unlikely to make your neighbors happy and, most likely, you will be fined.

All threaded connections sealed with fum tape or linen winding, on top of which packaging paste is applied. When screwing the valve into the radiator manifold, much winding is not required. Too much of it can lead to the appearance of microcracks and subsequent destruction. This is true for almost all types of heating devices, except cast iron. When installing all the others, please do not be fanatical.

If you have the skills/opportunity to use welding, you can weld the bypass. This is what the piping of radiators in apartments usually looks like.

With a two-pipe system, a bypass is not needed. The supply is connected to the upper entrance, the return is connected to the lower entrance, taps, of course, are needed.

With bottom wiring (pipes laid on the floor), this type of connection is made very rarely - it turns out inconvenient and ugly; in this case, it is much better to use a diagonal connection.

Strapping with diagonal connection

Installation of heating radiators with diagonal connections is the most best option from a heat transfer point of view. In this case it is the highest. With lower wiring this type The connection is easy to implement (example in the photo) - the supply on this side is at the top, the return on the other is at the bottom.

A single-pipe system with vertical risers (in apartments) does not look as good, but people put up with it because of the higher efficiency.

Please note that with a one-pipe system, a bypass is again required.

Strapping with saddle connection

With bottom wiring or hidden pipes, installing heating radiators in this way is the most convenient and least noticeable.

With a saddle connection and bottom single-pipe wiring, there are two options - with and without bypass. Without a bypass, the taps are still installed; if necessary, you can remove the radiator and install a temporary jumper between the taps - a squeegee (a piece of pipe of the required length with threads at the ends).

At vertical wiring(risers in high-rise buildings) this type of connection can be seen rarely - the heat losses are too large (12-15%).

Video tutorials on installing heating radiators

From the author: Hello, dear readers! Heating radiators are an integral part of almost any heating system. Of course, when we're talking about Regarding residential premises, owners usually purchase equipment in stores, since factory models have a high level of aesthetics.

But in the case when you need to make heating in any household or production premises, everything can be much simpler and less expensive. Homemade devices- these are not always flimsy, short-lived structures. If you know how to properly make a heating radiator with your own hands, you can get very high-quality and efficient equipment, while practically investing no money in it.

Advantages and disadvantages of homemade devices

• very high efficiency. You can build a radiator from pipes of any size. But, as a rule, elements with a fairly large diameter are taken for this purpose. Thanks to this, the area of ​​the device is quite decent, and the heat transfer, accordingly, too. The length can also be varied, because nothing limits you. You can build a radiator along the entire room, thereby obtaining very uniform heating of the area;
• absolutely simple design. If you are able to hold a pipe in your hands, then you can definitely handle other manipulations necessary for the production of a heating radiator. Of course, it would be nice to also have experience working with welding machine- but even if it’s not there, then here’s a reason for you to practice;
• low cost. The materials for manufacturing are quite low in price. In addition, you can purchase pipes that have already been used. For our case, novelty is not important, and savings can be very significant;
• ability to connect to different types of systems. As is known, the coolant flow through the circuit can be carried out either naturally or forcedly. In the second case, a circulation pump is used, which sets the fluid at the required speed. Naturally, the pressure level also increases. So, a homemade radiator will cope with this perfectly. If, of course, all the work is done efficiently;
• the ability to do without a separate heating boiler. You can build a heating element with a thermostat into a homemade radiator. Thus, your heating system will be completely autonomous, and at the same time this will help to avoid the significant costs of purchasing a heating boiler.

We've sorted out the advantages. As you can see, there are quite a lot of them. But for the sake of objectivity of the picture, let’s also mention the disadvantages:

• the need to carry out work very efficiently. In this case, it will not be possible to do everything wrong. One poor-quality seam - and you will be guaranteed a leak. Therefore, if, as mentioned above, you do not have the skills to work with a welding machine, first study the hardware, then practice on some metal scraps, and only then take on the main work;
• inability to use a radiator in the apartment. Firstly, a homemade product will not meet safety requirements, so placing such devices in residential premises is prohibited. Secondly, the size of the device is such that it will take up quite a lot of space. And then, it was already mentioned above that such radiators are intended for garages, workshops and similar premises. Believe me, they look the part; we are not talking about a noble and sophisticated appearance here. Therefore, you yourself are unlikely to want to place your creation in your apartment. Unless you decide to add a very powerful twist to your interior design.

In addition, when compared with factory-made devices, the efficiency of home-made ones will still be lower. But not critical.

Overall, the advantages definitely outweigh it in its favor. Therefore, let's figure out what we will make the radiator from and, in fact, how all the work is carried out. It’s worth saying right away that this business will be most profitable if you are lucky enough to find very cheap pipes: used, discarded, etc. Then you will receive a high-quality radiator practically for free, which will further increase the level of satisfaction with your own workmanship.

Design Features

Let's start with what the radiator is made of. Steel pipes are great for this. But it is important to pay attention to their quality. Black steel is the cheapest, which in our case is only beneficial. But it is absolutely unstable to corrosion processes. This means that its inner walls, with constant contact with the coolant, will quickly begin to rust.

This can lead to two consequences. Firstly, rust particles will adhere to the walls of the pipe. Gradually, this layer will become thicker and thicker, and this will lead to a deterioration in the coolant current and, as a result, to a significant decrease in the performance of the entire radiator. Secondly, rust will gradually simply “eat” the pipe. As a result, a hole will form and the battery will become completely unusable.

Of course, if you are ready to make a radiator every year, then this is not a problem. The cost of the equipment will indeed be very low. But if you don’t want to regularly spend time on this, then it’s better to take better material.

Ideal from the point of view of resisting rust is, of course, stainless steel. And also copper and bronze. But it is clear that these materials cannot be classified as budget materials, no matter how tempting they may be. Therefore, we immediately reject these options in the name of saving family budget and turn our gaze to galvanized steel.

In fact, this is the most ordinary steel, but coated with a layer of zinc. It prevents corrosion processes from developing. It’s not that his system can be called eternal, but for several years you will be spared the need to replace the radiator with a new one. At the same time, the main material retains all the characteristics inherent in steel: strength, durability, high level of heat transfer, etc. In general, the galvanized option in this case is perhaps optimal.

Let's finally move on to the design itself. Most often, it is made of several tubes - sections - which are connected to each other by pieces of tubes of smaller diameter. Such a radiator is called sectional. Sometimes it is necessary to give it additional rigidity; this is done by welding several pieces of reinforcement.

There are no restrictions on the number of connected sections. It all depends on the size of the room and the amount of thermal energy it needs. If the space is too large, then it makes sense not to increase the height, but simply to stretch a pair of long pipes connected to each other along the wall.

And vice versa - in small room It makes more sense to make a high “ladder” radiator than to take up the lion’s share of the space with long pipes. When making such a design, it is important to ensure good current coolant. This is achieved by welding the jumpers close to the side edges of the radiator.

Basically, sectional radiator quite good, but it has a significant drawback. Since the main pipes and jumpers have different diameters, this leads to excessively high hydraulic resistance during battery operation. Because of this, problems may occur with the circulation of the coolant.

For this reason, snake-shaped batteries are much more popular. That's what they are called - coils. You've probably seen this design more than once - these are the same cast iron batteries, which were previously installed in every bathroom and served as a heated towel rail.

The main advantage of the coil is the absence of diameter differences, as a result of which the hydraulic resistance is low. The assembly of such a structure is much simpler than in the case of a sectional one. The most difficult task- is to find curved elements from suitable material. And the rest is a matter of technology.

In addition, the finished structure is highly durable and reliable. Consequently, its durability is excellent. There are much fewer welding seams here than in sectional batteries, but each of them, in fact, is a risk zone. It is the joints that are most often the source of leakage.

Since a homemade coil can be quite large, it needs to be given additional strength. This can be done using the same fittings.

Manufacturing process

It's time to move on directly to how a homemade radiator is made. Let us consider, as an example, the creation of sectional equipment, since this procedure is more complex. As the main material, you need a twelve-meter pipe, the diameter of which is from 100 to 120 millimeters. The choice of this element has already been discussed above. In addition, you will need:

• a metal sheet. We will use it to make plugs that cover additional holes on the radiator;
• water pipe. Also metal, standard diameter. We will use it to make jumpers connecting the main pipes;
• several pieces of reinforcement. Necessary to give increased strength to the structure;
• fitting. In this case, you need to purchase threaded ones. With their help, the radiator will be connected to the cold water supply system;
• Bulgarian saw;
• welding machine, electrodes to it;
• protective clothing and glasses.

We will make a structure of quite impressive size. The work is carried out in the following order.

1. We divide the large pipe into four equal sections. The length of each should be 3 meters.
2. Using a Bulgarian saw, we process the edges of the sections so that the cut points are smooth.
3. Eight plugs need to be cut from a metal sheet. Six of them will be used for installation in the radiator, two are intended for inserting fittings.
4. Now we make jumpers. To do this you need to cut water pipe so that there are several segments. The length of each of them should exceed the diameter of the main pipe by about 5–10 millimeters.
5. It's time to work with the welding machine. Be sure to first protect your eyes and hands with appropriate protection. All four pipe sections must be connected to each other. To do this, one jumper is welded closer to the ends on each side of the pipe. In the middle part of the radiator we also weld jumpers, but not hollow ones, but made from reinforcement. Thus, the structure receives the necessary rigidity. While working, pay close attention to the quality of the welds. It is better to immediately redo the area in which doubts have arisen than to later end up with a completely unworkable structure.
6. We close the end holes on each section of the main pipe with plugs. This is also done by using a welding machine. Those parts of the plugs that will stick out beyond the edges of the holes can be cut off with a grinder or by welding.
7. The radiator itself is ready. The next stage is inserting fittings to connect the structure to the cold water supply system. First you need to decide how the coolant will be supplied and drained. Depending on this, the connection diagram can be bottom, side or diagonal. In the first case, the pipes are connected to the bottom of the radiator on both sides. In the second - to the side. At diagonal connection one pipe is connected to the lower corner, and the second to the opposite upper corner. In accordance with the chosen diagram, cut the fittings into specific places.
8. The final stage is registration. It is necessary to give our building cultural species. To do this, we first clean all the joints so that they become even and smooth. This is done using a grinder. After this, degrease the surface of the entire structure and prime it. This will additionally protect the device from corrosion. Then the radiator can be painted. If you decide to do this, then choose white, since this is where the maximum effect will be.
9. Before connecting the radiator to the system, it is necessary to check its integrity. This is done quite simply: pour water inside the structure and carefully inspect each joint for leaks. Of course, it is advisable to do all this under pressure, if possible. If your creation has successfully passed the test, then you can proceed to installation.
10. During installation, you should take into account the fact that the structure we created has considerable weight. And modern heating pipes made of plastic, they don’t really like it when something like that suddenly falls on them. Simply put, if the radiator falls, the pipeline will be finished. Therefore, special attention must be paid to the quality of fastening the battery to the wall. To do this, you can use pins or hooks from durable metal. And don’t skimp on their quantity - in this case, it’s better to be on the safe side than to be left without heating at all.
11. If the wall is not strong enough and you have concerns that it will not support the weight of the structure, then the most reasonable way out of this situation would be to place the radiator on a floor support. It is also made of metal. When installing, follow the indicators building level to check the evenness of the structure.

As you can see, friends, in the process handmade creation There is nothing complicated about a heating radiator. The coil is made even simpler. If you manage to find a bent metal tube the right size, then simply weld plugs with fittings in it and connect to the system. If, for example, you were unable to find a solid pipe, then you can weld several curved sections together. The connection diagram of the coil to the cold water supply can vary in the same way as for a sectional design.

Despite the fact that such production is artisanal, it is necessary to pay attention to the quality of the materials used. For example, pipes must have intact walls, without signs of damage or rust. Defective items, of course, can be given to you for free, but there is no point in them. The slightest trace of rust can soon develop into a full-fledged corrosion process, and as a result, all your work will go down the drain.

The wall thickness should vary from 2.5 millimeters or more. If you take too much thin-walled pipes, then they won’t last very long. We are sure that everything will work out great for you. Good luck!

You will need

• - angle grinder (grinder);
• - welding machine, electrodes;
• - steel pipe VGP Du-25, length 20 cm;
• - steel pipe with a diameter of 102x3.5 mm, length 2 m;
• - squeegee Du-25, length 110 mm (2 pcs);
• - plug Du-25;
• - sheet steel 3 mm, dimensions 100x600 mm.

Instructions

First of all, find the material for the battery. It must be steel pipes large diameter. If you do not have such scraps on your farm, contact your nearest scrap metal collection point, where you can find suitable pipes at the most reasonable price.

To produce a battery with approximately the same power as a standard cast iron radiator with ten sections, count the length of the pipe. For example, if the diameter is 102 mm and the wall thickness is 3.5 mm, calculate the internal diameter (9.5 mm) and cross-sectional area (70.85 mm). As a result of dividing the volume of the battery (14500 cubic cm) by the cross-sectional area, you get the required length - 204.66 cm. Round it to 2 meters.

Consider the design of the battery. Make it three-section, and to avoid airing, install it as indicated in the diagram. In this case, you will not need to install a Mayevsky crane.

Mark the pipe into three equal parts and cut with a grinder. In each pipe, use welding to cut two holes with a diameter of 25 mm at a distance of 50 mm from the end on each side. Please note that the holes should be located at an angle of 180º relative to each other, that is, one hole is at the bottom and the other at the top. Carefully clean the pipes of molten metal.

Cut 6 round blanks with a diameter of 25 mm from a steel sheet and weld the ends of the pipes with these blanks.

Cut a thin pipe with a diameter of 25 mm into two equal parts 100 mm long. Weld them to large pipes to form a zigzag. Also make 100 mm long sections from the rod and weld them on the side opposite to the adapters to add rigidity. You have a stable structure along which water can only move in a zigzag.

Also, by welding, attach the squeegees to the inlet and outlet holes.

Check the radiator heating for tightness. To do this, pour water into it, closing the lower outlet with a plug. If a leak is found in one of the joints, mark this place with a marker, drain the water and weld the gap.

Far in the past are the times when apartment buildings installed massive batteries made of cast iron. Modern market heating radiators offers huge assortment: tubular, convectors, made of aluminum, steel, bimetal. In order to build a proper and durable heating system and rationally use resources, you need to know which heating radiator to choose.

The main requirements for absolutely any heating radiator are reliability, durability, quality and modern design. If you don’t know which heating radiator to choose, then you need to understand the main types of radiators, their technical specifications and possibilities of use in a particular room.

Types of heating radiators

The main heating radiators are the following:

1. Bimetallic heating radiators provide high quality work and a fairly high level of heat transfer. According to their characteristics, they combine the best features of aluminum and steel batteries.

The service life of bimetal radiators is one of the highest and is about 20-25 years. Such batteries are very compact, have an attractive appearance and will fit perfectly into the interior of any room.

Today it is a recognized leader in the radiator market.

2. Steel radiators, which have good heat transfer, are a single panel of steel sheets welded together. As a rule, steel batteries are used in closed systems heat supply and are able to efficiently and reliably heat any home in the winter cold.

Steel radiators are inferior to bimetallic and aluminum ones solely in lightness and appearance.

3. Aluminum radiators, made of aluminum with the addition of silicon, have attractive design, comparatively light weight and can quickly warm any room.

When purchasing aluminum radiators, pay attention to the pressure and temperature that these batteries are capable of. They are produced in the form of sections or cast.

One of the disadvantages of radiators of this type is their rather low corrosion ability.

4. Tubular radiators made special method welding, withstand enormous internal pressure. However, this type of radiator is not widespread due to its high cost.

5. Convectors, which are designed to be built into the floor, can be used in both apartment and private buildings. Such batteries have a number of advantages: the ability to adjust temperature regime, high term service, reliability.

This type of radiator must be installed by real professionals, because... batteries are difficult to install and install.

Another disadvantage of convectors is their high cost.

Thus, when deciding which heating radiator to choose, take into account the characteristics of the room, the layout of the house, the pressure in the system, the purpose of the radiator and your material possibilities.

Video on the topic

Steel panel radiators are one of the most modern heating structures. They are attractive appearance, as well as high thermal conductivity. At the same time, the cost of such systems remains quite high, so if you wish and have certain skills, you can make them yourself.

Design features of panel radiators

Panel radiators are designed to work in central heating systems connected to circulation pump, where the coolant is water. It is also possible to install them in systems with natural circulation, however, this can significantly increase the hydraulic resistance. Radiators consist of several metal pipes, forming a single chain. The devices are screwed or welded to the main line and equipped with shut-off valves. Externally, they are covered with metal sheets, which form a panel structure that ensures free circulation of warm air.

Factory models of panel radiators, manufactured as heating systems for apartments and private houses, are characterized by big amount small, but at the same time quite significant nuances that are almost impossible to take into account and implement at home. Therefore, you can only make a small-sized battery with your own hands, which can be used to heat garages and basements.

Preparing for work

An important point is the availability of welding skills, without which it will not be possible to assemble a panel heat radiator. Also, to make the structure you will need the following consumables and equipment:

• welding machine with electrodes;
• Bulgarian;
• a rectangular culvert pipe about a meter long and a cross-section of about 0.2 m;
• two steel pipes with a diameter of 0.1 m and a length of 0.8-1 m;
• two bends of the required diameter;
• two steel sheets 3 mm thick, 0.1 m wide and 0.8 m long.

The length of the culvert should be selected based on the desired radiator size. For example, a meter-long product will be quite enough to prepare 5-6 small rectangular pipes that will make up the frame of the battery. This is enough to heat a small room. At the same time, the cost of materials will be approximately 2-3 times less than purchasing a ready-made radiator. If you want to achieve maximum heat transfer from the product, you can perform some additional calculations.

Useful calculations

To determine the appropriate size of the future battery, you should be guided by the parameters of a typical factory cast iron radiator. For example, a product with ten registers holds about 1.5 liters of heating liquid. The power of each register is about 160 watts. As a result, a homemade battery panel construction standard sizes must hold at least 14.5 liters of liquid.

Considering that the thin-walled rectangular steel pipes that will be used to make the radiator are smaller in size than those of the cast iron structure, it is important to select products with a diameter of at least 20-30 cm. As a result, the total area of ​​the radiator will actually correspond to the cast iron counterpart, and the resulting product will be able to contain the required volume of working fluid. Do not neglect these calculations, otherwise the homemade radiator may simply burst when connected to the heating main.

Important points

When preparing materials for the manufacture of batteries, it is necessary to take into account their technical parameters. The power of the product must be calculated taking into account the following points:

• battery weight;
• weight of working fluid;
• total area of ​​the device;
• thermal conductivity.

Compared to cast iron batteries, steel panel radiators have lower heat transfer, but it is important to remember that it is the thin steel sheets welded together that form the panels that will help increase the power of the system. If desired, you can use additional sheets with sheathing to cover the edges and the upper area of ​​the radiator, due to which the structure will take on a complete look.

Making a heating radiator

To obtain an effective and high-quality product during the work process, it is important to follow the technical instructions. The main stages will be as follows:

1. Mark the culvert rectangular pipe on required amount pieces and cut it using a grinder.
2. Mark each of the two large steel pipes where they will connect to the culverts. The latter should be located evenly and quite tightly to each other, forming frame structure, resembling an accordion in shape. In this case, you need to step back 5-10 cm from the edges of each pipe.
3. Use a welding machine to make holes at the fastening points. frame pipes and clean them of molten metal formed after welding.
4. Alternately weld the frame sections to the junctions with the main pipes. Products must be positioned strictly vertically.

Completion of work

The final stage of creation panel radiator will be connecting the remaining parts and testing the structure for strength. Proceed in the following order:

1. Weld the bends prepared in advance at one end of the large pipes. Weld the other ends so that there are no gaps or holes left.
2. Place the radiator on the floor and lay a sheet of metal on it. Adjust the sheet and mark it so that it does not protrude beyond the edges of the battery. Trim off the excess using a grinder.
3. Repeat the procedure with the second metal sheet, which will serve as the rear panel of the radiator. Using steel scraps, connect both sheets at the ends to form a cylindrical structure. Additionally, you can make or purchase a metal grill of a suitable size to use as a cover. The latter must be removable to allow cleaning of the radiator.

Upon completion of all major activities, the finished structure must be checked for strength and tightness. Having positioned the radiator vertically and closing one of the outlets, fill it with water, then close the second outlet. Place the structure on the floor and loosen it a little. Make sure there are no leaks and every structural element remains in place. If a leak is detected, re-weld the corresponding areas that were done poorly.

Installing a homemade radiator

Installing a radiator manufactured in compliance with all standards will not be difficult. It is only important to draw up in advance a detailed plan for the location of the heating radiator, taking into account the availability of exits to the main line, the installation of additional locking devices and thermostat. This procedure will allow you to control the further progress of work and avoid mistakes that could lead to a system breakdown. Remember that the structure can be quite heavy and awkward to move, so you should hire 1-2 more people for installation. In addition, you will need some tools:

• measuring tape
• kit wrenches for assembling the structure;
• electric drill with a set of drills;
• pencil;
• building level;
• adjustable wrench.

After preparing the equipment, you can begin to work. First, turn off the water and make sure that the heating main outlets are tight. If there are old heating devices at the installation site of a new radiator, they must be dismantled. After this, immediately level the surface of the wall, cover it with a primer and paint if necessary. Remember that after installing the radiator, you most likely will not be able to perform these steps.

Mark the fasteners for the radiator and begin installation thermal equipment, guided by them. Install couplings at the inlet and outlet of the radiator as soon as it is installed on the fasteners. Now prepare the thermal head by installing a special tap and valve for this purpose. In this case, the tap should be located on the return line, and the valve should be located directly at the inlet to the heating device. To avoid possible leaks be sure to seal all connections using FUM tape or a special sealant.

Make sure all connections are secure and proceed to connect the new radiator to the main heating line. Fill the system with working fluid, then open the tap and bleed off excess accumulated air. Start the pump connected to the main line to ensure heating of the heat-conducting liquid. Check the operation of the system at low power and, if there are no problems, use it at full power. Make sure the room is free from drafts and has a functioning ventilation system, to installed equipment provided optimal heating.