Ideas for making trays. Aging of wooden surfaces. DIY tray. Tray with mosaic

Have you invited guests and want to impress them? Then you can’t do without a beautiful table setting, that is, an elegant tablecloth, beautiful dishes and suitable cutlery. A serving tray isn't essential for a dinner party, but if you plan to serve snacks and drinks during the feast, it can be extremely useful. In this article we will tell you how to make a serving tray with your own hands.

Materials:

• new cutting board (preferably rectangular without a handle)
• long handles for drawers, 2 pcs.

Tools:

• drill with drill bits
• tape measure or ruler
• pencil

How to make a serving tray with your own hands

Place the drawer handles on the surface of the cutting board, align them with the edges and central axis. Use a pencil to make markings that will help determine where the handles will be located.

Remove the handles, determine at what distance the threaded holes are located to secure them from the surfaces, the position of which is indicated by the marking lines.

Using these measurements, mark the points where you need to drill holes for the screws.

Memo: remember that it is better to measure seven times and cut only once

Drill holes at the appropriate points. The diameter of the holes should match or slightly exceed the diameter of the screws used.

Memo: To prevent the front surface of the cutting board from being damaged when drilling holes, you need to put wooden plank or a block.

Use screws to secure the handles in place. If on cutting board there are no rubber feet, the screws will have to be recessed so that they do not damage the surface of the table. But it’s better to install such legs; using them to serve on the table will be more convenient.

That's all! A simple and stylish tray is ready. You can safely receive guests.

This elegant and functional item you can make it in a couple of weekends. Wood with beautiful design, such as wavy maple, will add extra interest to the tray.

First make the handles

1. Cut four blanks from a 25mm cherry board specified length for half arms A (Fig. 1 And photo A)(read the “Tip of the Craftsman” below to correctly orient the workpieces relative to the direction of the grain of the wood). If you keep the original parallelogram shape of the workpieces, the next step will be easier.

Mark the handle blank as shown so that the grain of the wood is oriented diagonally. We oriented the squares at a 30° angle, but the angle may be different depending on the width of the board and the direction of the grain in it.

The temples will be strong if the fibers meet at the top. Distribute the blanks for the halves of the arms A in pairs and choose the most attractive combinations. Orient the fibers in each pair so that at the junction they form a triangle, the apex of which is directed upward, as on the left arch. Mark each pair by placing appropriate marks at the joint to ensure alignment when final gluing. The right bow is glued together from halves, the fibers of which meet at the bottom. Such a bow will be fragile, since the fibers are directed across the cross-section in several places, and it may break during assembly or when using the tray.

It is difficult to saw end grain, so grooves with a depth of 51 mm are best made in several passes. Press the workpiece firmly with the pusher against the longitudinal stop of the machine.

2. Install in sawing machine groove disk 10 mm thick and make halves at one of the ends of each workpiece A groove (Fig. 1 And photo B). To reliably support the workpieces, attach a high wooden pad to the longitudinal (parallel) stop of the machine. Having cut out the grooves, file the workpieces until square shape with a side of 114 mm.

3. From wood of a contrasting color (we chose wavy maple), cut a 114x305 mm blank for the dowels IN, two blanks 51×483 mm for longitudinal walls WITH and two blanks 51×330 mm for the end walls D. Plan these blanks to planer, adjusting their thickness to the width of the grooves cut into the blanks of the arch halves (Fig. 1 And 2). Set the wall blanks aside and cut out the dowels of the specified sizes. Glue two blank handles, connecting each pair of halves A using a key inserted into the grooves.

With the workpiece laying flat, lift the saw blade so that it passes only through the inner wall of the tongue, without touching the other wall.

4. Once the glue has dried, carefully align the bottom edge of each piece A/B and in four passes cut out a tongue and groove with a cross-section of 10×51 mm (Fig. 1a). Saw off part of the tongue wall from the inside to a width of 12 mm (photo C).

5. Using a compass, mark on the workpieces A/B outer and inner radii (Fig. 1). Also mark the centers of the screw holes on outside each workpiece. Make counterbores with a mounting hole in the outer wall of the tongues. Band saw or using a jigsaw, carefully cut out the handles along the contour, sand them to the final shape, and then mill 6-mm curves on the ribs. Give the handles a final sanding. sandpaper № 220.

Making a tray

1. Take previously sawn and planed required thickness blanks for longitudinal and end walls C, D. Arrange them as they will be glued together and mark each one for later processing and final assembly. Cut a tongue at the bottom edge of each workpiece from the inside, the width of which corresponds to the thickness F (Fig. 2).

2. Tilt the saw blade at an angle of 45° and file the bevels at the ends of the longitudinal WITH and end D walls, giving them their final length (Fig. 2).

When cutting narrow grooves on the bevels, guide the wall blank with a transverse (angular) stop, and longitudinal stop will serve as a limiter. This operation is safe, since the cut will not be through.

3. Without changing the position of the saw blade, make bevels of the longitudinal and end walls C, D 5 mm deep cuts for dowels (Fig. 2, photoD).

Quick tip! For these narrow keyways, it is better to use a combination saw blade with 50 teeth, which have a variable oblique sharpening, as well as teeth with a flat tip, forming a flat bottom of the cut that does not require additional processing.

4. From cherry wood, make a blank measuring 51x305 mm for the dowels E and sharpen it to a thickness of 3 mm, adjusting it to the width of the cuts in the walls C, D. Saw off the dowels to the required length so that they fit snugly into the corresponding cuts. (Fig. 2).

5. Saw out the bottom F and file down its corners so that you can insert the dowels E (Fig. 3). Assemble the tray dry C-F to check and adjust all connections. Finish sanding internal sides walls C, D and both sides of the bottom F sandpaper No. 220.

6. Assemble the tray C-F, applying glue to the keyways, bevels and tongues for inserting the bottom. Once thoroughly dry, sand the edges and exterior surfaces with 220-grit sandpaper.

Final assembly

1. Apply thin layer glue on internal walls tongues of one of the handles A and put it on the end wall D, aligned exactly in the middle. Drill 1.6 x 20 mm pilot holes for the screws, gluing a masking tape flag to the drill to serve as a depth limiter. Then secure the bow with screws (Fig. 2). Wipe off excess glue with a damp cloth. Install the second handle in the same way.

2. Using a 6mm plug drill, make maple plugs and glue them into the counterbores to cover the screw heads. Once the glue has dried, trim the protruding parts of the plugs flush and sand smooth.

3. Apply finishing coating. We used a natural compound (called Danish oil) to enhance the iridescent pattern of the wavy maple, and then applied three coats of a semi-matte finish. polyurethane varnish on water based which will provide reliable protection from moisture and dirt.

Among the offers of modern furniture stores there are interesting coffee tables with a soft tabletop, if you can call it that. They look interesting in the interior, but they are never practical. Juice or coffee stains are not as easy to wipe off as with regular wooden or glass table top. For all owners of such a miracle and simply those who love breakfast in bed, we suggest making such a tray. It is stylish in appearance and not expensive in cost.

Materials

Before making a tray with your own hands, make sure you have:

• boards from a pallet or box;
• boards hardwood wood;
• white paints;
• polyurethane-based varnish;
• masking tape;
• saws;
• sandpaper;
• brushes;
• chisels;
• clamps;
• wood glue;
• roulette;
• self-tapping screws;
• drills;
• screwdriver or screwdriver;
• pencil.

Step 1. Decide on the dimensions of the tray and, based on this, cut the boards you have from the box or pallet to length. IN in this case I wanted the boards to look like one after gluing, without joints, seams or other irregularities. To do this, the boards had to be adjusted to each other and in thickness.

Step 2. Using clamps and wood glue, all the boards should be glued together, carefully pressing them together so that none of them gets out of line. After the workpiece has dried, all excess glue should be removed and the surfaces thoroughly sanded.

Step 3. You will need to make the sides of the tray from boards of light wood. In this case, poplar was taken.

When cutting wood, base it on the perimeter of the base and the height you want for the tray.

On the side edges, be sure to mark the cutouts for the handles. Also take into account the height at which the base will be attached so that the slots do not extend onto the bottom.

Step 4. After cutting out the holes, sand them thoroughly. They must be perfectly smooth.

Step 5. Using wood glue and clamps, glue the sides to the base.

Step 6. You can use self-tapping screws as additional fastenings.

Step 7. After the glue has dried, remove any excess. Cover the holes formed by the fasteners with wood putty. After letting it dry, level the surface with sandpaper or a sander.

Step 8. Cover the bottom of the tray with masking tape. Apply two layers of paint to the sides. After it dries, remove the tape and leave everything until completely dry surfaces.

DIY wooden tray, design drawings, detailed description and assembly order.

The design allows you to carry various items in such a way that nothing rolls off it, thanks to the sides along the perimeter of the bottom. A carefully crafted wooden product will suit any kitchen if it is designed in the same style.

The picture shows the details of the tray:

1. Cross side.
2. Longitudinal side.
3. Bottom.
4. Pen.
5. Wooden dowel 5 x 20 (mm).
6. Wooden dowel 5 x 25 (mm).
7. Wood screw 3 x 16 (mm).

Material for making: oak, beech or other types of wood that will fit well into the interior of the room.

Materials Dimensions Specification:

Cross border 10 x 25 x 340 (mm) – 2 (pcs.)
longitudinal side 10 x 25 x 440 (mm) – 2 (pcs.)
handle – 10 x 30 x 80 (mm) – 2 (pcs.)
bottom – 6 x 348 x 448 (mm) – 1 (pcs.)

TRANSVERSE SIDE

LONGITUDINAL SIDE

PEN

The transverse side and handle can be made from different varieties tree.

Cut it from a sheet of moisture-resistant plywood 6 (mm) thick. Mark the center and drill through holes for the countersunk head screws used. From the back side, we drill the holes with a large drill, the diameter of which should be equal to the diameter of the head of the screw used. Smooth out the sharp edges and apply a decorative paint coating.

Manufacturing technology wooden tray:

1. Let's prepare the necessary material.
2. We will make all the assembly parts.
3. We connect the longitudinal and transverse sides into a tenon on adhesive connection. We fix the resulting frame, strictly observing a right angle between the sides. We will drill through holes Ø 5 (mm) in the corners. Insert wooden dowels 5 x 25 (mm) into the holes using glue.
4. Insert handles into the grooves of the transverse beads onto the glue. Along the edges of the handles, on top, we drill holes Ø 5 (mm), depth 20 (mm). Insert wooden dowels 5 x 20 (mm) into the holes using glue.

5. Carefully remove the squeezed out glue.
6. After the glue has dried, we will begin finishing the assembled tray frame:

Let's polish the surfaces
smooth out the sharp edges
apply wood antiseptic
we'll cover front surfaces decorative paint layer

7. Using wood screws, screw the bottom to the frame.

Views: 0

What features should every tray have? Naturally, this is convenience and practicality. In other words, so that the food carried does not roll off it. The product provided in this article fully meets these requirements. The right color and material make the tray very beautiful and comfortable, so it fits into most modern styles.

To create a wooden tray, you don’t need to rack your brains over tools and materials; you can easily purchase everything you need at your local store. hardware store. Decide on the color of varnish and paint that will ideally match with. But you should understand that you need to avoid buying varnish with a very strong smell - this can harm your health.

Below are standard sizes tray, but you can choose the ones that suit you.

Wooden tray - tools and materials

There is a lot of work ahead, but don’t be afraid of it. By following our recommendations, you will definitely succeed! But first you need to prepare the following:

• jigsaw;
• electric drill;
• drill with a diameter of 2.5 cm;
• hacksaw with fine tooth pitch;
• hammer (where would we be without it?);
• roulette;
• massive scissors;
• a simple pencil;
• paint brush;
• a pair of rubber gloves and newspaper.

For a high-quality and reliable product, it is best to take hardwood. Red oak is ideal. Approximate thickness - 2.5 centimeters. In this case you will need:

• a pair of boards 9x32 cm;
• a pair of boards 6.5x56 cm;
• one board 32x61 cm.

Choose a varnish depending on the drying location. If the products will be dried on outdoors– you can take the varnish to oil based. Otherwise, opt for water-soluble varnish.

Manufacturing instructions

Initially, you need to make marks for future pens. There is nothing complicated here, just rely on the drawing.

Determine the middle on the board (9x32 cm), then step back to the left and right by 5 centimeters. You need to drill holes there. In our case, drills with a diameter of 2.5 cm play a very important role, since this will all affect the dimensions in the end. You need to drill exclusively at right angles, avoiding uneven holes.

After you have drilled the holes, you need to align them with a simple pencil. Then go along these lines with a jigsaw, thus forming handles. Be sure to sand them down as they should be smooth.

Now that all the parts are ready, you can start connecting them. To do this, use 2 cm nails, glue and a hammer. After assembly, you also need to sand everything down, getting rid of any unevenness and roughness.

Only after this do we start painting - this is the simplest thing left for you to do. Prepare the surface, coat it with varnish and let dry. That's it, you have become the owner of a wooden tray with your own hands!