Good neighbors are the key to successful harvests! Neighborhood and rotation of vegetables on a plot - theory and practice of crop rotation Neighbors of onions in the garden

The compatibility of vegetables in the garden is a much more important question than it might seem at first glance. Among plants, as among people, there are friends and enemies. The quality of the harvest and, in general, the vital activity of certain plants may depend on knowledge of these nuances. Let’s take a closer look at what to plant next to what.

Mixed plantings

A special science, allelopathy, deals with the problems of interaction between plants in the garden. Any plant releases a variety of substances into the soil and air that have a positive or negative effect on its “neighbors.” The useful and harmful juxtaposition of vegetables in the beds is presented in the table below. In the meantime, let's look at the advantages of mixed planting technology:

• saves space in the garden;
• the soil is less depleted, there is no need for annual crop rotation;
• less effort is required to treat pests, since some plants themselves repel them;
• when planting vegetables together in beds, almost no additional fertilizer is required;
• The quality of the harvest and the taste of the fruits increase (for example, beans can make radishes tastier, and mint can make white cabbage), as well as the amount of vitamins and sugars in them.

Rules to follow when organizing combined plantings of vegetable crops:

1. The width of each bed should exceed a meter. This will be necessary in the future for ease of plant care.
2. The bed is divided into several sections. Crops that take a long time to grow and ripen are planted in the central one. These are peppers, cabbage, tomatoes. When the season comes, they will already occupy a good half of the ridge.
3. Those types of crops that ripen quickly are planted from the edges. Mostly greens, but also strawberries and grapes.

An example of a properly organized garden bed for joint plantings:

Lettuce grows on the edge, carrots or radishes alternate with marjoram in the second row, and onions in the third. The 4th and 5th row correspond to the 1st and 2nd. Cucumbers are planted in the middle.

You can come up with a lot of similar schemes, it all depends on the required plants and on your attentiveness in matters of their combination.

Neighborhood of vegetables in the beds

Good neighbors are radishes, beans, lettuce, mint, dill, spinach. But tomatoes and cucumbers do not go together at all, since they require different amounts of moisture. Tomatoes also need a lot of fresh air, while cucumbers prefer the greenhouse effect. In general, tomatoes cannot be combined with almost any garden crops. The exceptions are radishes, asparagus, garlic, and parsley.

But basil is almost universal and can benefit any plant.

Cabbage is not recommended to be planted next to beets, carrots, beans, and pumpkin will not be happy with potatoes. It is better to plant it with relatives - zucchini, squash or melons. Otherwise, the harvest will be significantly worse.

Beneficial neighbors of beets are cabbage, zucchini, and legumes.

Peas go well with corn, lettuce and cabbage, but they don’t do well if their neighbors in the garden are zucchini, onions, and beans.

The ideal neighbors of dill are potatoes and parsley, and cucumbers are eggplants, onions, and lettuce.

Potatoes are usually planted separately, away from other crops. But it should be noted that horseradish will help protect it from bedbugs, and beans/peas or other legumes will saturate the soil with nitrogen, which will have a positive effect on the quantity and quality of the harvest. They will also repel Colorado potato beetles.

Every plant needs pollinators, which is why planting flowers near your vegetables is a good idea. In addition to flowers, marjoram, mint, and lemon balm are also attractive to pollinating insects. These herbs will always be useful on the farm for culinary or medicinal purposes, and at the same time the yield of your vegetable crops will increase significantly. In addition, they wonderfully decorate a summer cottage.

Another important point: the presence of earthworms in the soil. They loosen the soil, which increases the amount of oxygen in it. Worms are attracted to crops such as onions, valerian, and chicory.

Spinach is a very convenient option for joint plantings because it releases a lot of saponin into the soil - a substance that promotes root growth and improves access to water and nutrients. Different types of primrose have the same property.

Compatibility table for vegetables in garden beds

More detailed data can be found in the following tables:

Examples of bad neighborhoods not included in the tables

When organizing joint plantings of vegetables in the garden, make sure that the gooseberries are kept away from the currants, otherwise the moth, a pest dangerous to berries, will actively multiply.

A pear planted near a cherry tree will often get sick. The same situation is observed when planting any type of currant next to cherries or cherries. And juniper planted under a pear will most likely infect it with fungal infections.

The apple tree also loses from the proximity of cherries, as well as apricots, barberries, and lilacs. In general, cherries react aggressively to any planting under their crown, especially trees.

To prevent the appearance of a pest called strawberry-raspberry weevil, do not plant strawberries and raspberries next to each other. But almost any other plants next to raspberries, on the contrary, feel better because they saturate the earth with oxygen.

It is noteworthy that it is not advisable to plant birch in your garden - it has a very strong root system that absorbs huge amounts of water, taking it away from other plants. The same can be said about maple and spruce.

Plants that can repel pests:

Celery and shag resist cabbage fly, onion is an excellent remedy against spider mites. Wormwood and garlic are enemies of cruciferous flea beetles, and tomatoes are not to the liking of flea beetles and flea beetles. Garlic is also effective in repelling aphids and also helps the soil accumulate sulfur.

Vegetable neighborhood rules for greenhouses

If vegetable compatibility is important to you when planting in a greenhouse, keep the following factors in mind:

• in greenhouses, vegetables grow faster, and overall the harvest is better;
• in order to properly plant vegetables in a garden bed in a greenhouse, you need to adhere to the same principles as in open ground;
• before planting, you need to carefully develop a layout of the beds;
• You also need to take into account the cardinal directions - cucumbers and tomatoes grow better on the sunny southern side.

The compatibility of plants in a garden bed in a greenhouse is closely related to the season. There are two types of greenhouse mixed planting. In the first, greens are grown in early spring, in the second, various crops are cultivated throughout the season. In other words, greens are planted first, which ripen very quickly, then they are collected and tomatoes or cucumbers are planted in the same place.

In a greenhouse, it is advisable to plant those plants that require similar conditions of humidity and temperature. Cucumbers provide abundant shade, so shade-loving crops can be placed next to them. Tomatoes will do well with white cabbage.

Mixed plantings of vegetables will help you get a good harvest even in difficult conditions - poor soil, unsuitable climate. You can combine mixed beds with compacted seeding technology to improve the result. In a word, creating the vegetable garden of your dreams is in your hands, if you correctly use modern developments. Both beginners and experienced gardeners can learn something new from mixed planting technology.

Proper placement of plants in beds affects their yield more than it seems. The fact that some crops grow better if they are planted together, while others, on the contrary, interfere with each other, was also noticed by the Indians who planted pumpkin, beans and corn together. Now many gardeners and summer residents know about the successful and unsuccessful juxtaposition of vegetables in their garden beds. The table of “friends” and “enemies” of each vegetable has been studied in detail and is available to everyone.

Successful garden neighbors

Planting vegetables together not only makes full use of the available land, but also has a positive effect on the growth and productivity of both plants. As a nice addition, such beds will look very nice from the outside. Smart planning of a vegetable garden and the interaction of plants in it combines many nuances that have been studied by both scientists and farmers from their own experience.

It is known that many plants secrete chemical compounds that can either promote the growth of neighbors or suppress it. In addition, they can provide each other with protection from the heat, providing shade, enriching the soil, inhibiting the growth of weeds that are dangerous to another type, or repelling pests. Each crop has its own list of useful and harmful companions in the garden.

Benefits of joint planting

Rules for joint planting of cultivated plants designed primarily to increase productivity. By following them, a person receives the following benefits:

Each plant has different neighbors, so you need to carefully consider the layout of your garden before you start mixed planting of vegetables in the beds. An example of a successful neighborhood: cucumber and corn, when the cereals protect the vegetable from the scorching sun and at the same time serve as a support for it. Corn is also good next to tomatoes, but it is better not to plant tomatoes and cucumbers themselves - they require completely different amounts of moisture and fresh air for optimal growth.

Vegetables can be planted not only next to other edible plants, but also with aromatic herbs or even flowers.

For example, basil improves the taste of tomatoes, and mint improves the taste of white cabbage. Almost all crops can be planted next to garlic and onions, because these fragrant plants produce a large amount of phytoncides that have a good effect on many vegetables.

All plants need pollinators, and planting flowers next to vegetables will help attract them - they will not only be beneficial, but will also serve as decoration for the garden. In addition to them, herbs such as mint, lemon balm and marjoram will help attract pollinating insects. Earthworms also have a good effect on most crops - they loosen the soil, increasing the amount of oxygen available to plants. They like herbs such as chicory, valerian and green onions.

Universal neighbors that are useful for almost any vegetable are legumes.. Their roots are inhabited by nodule bacteria that process nitrogen from the air, which the beans can supply to nearby plants. The most nitrogen-rich soil remains after the end of their growth, so legumes also serve as a good precursor for crops that require this parameter, for example, pumpkin or cabbage.

Another plant that works well with many vegetables is spinach. It releases special substances that help plants better absorb beneficial elements from the garden bed. In addition, spinach leaves quickly grow and cover the ground, protecting it from drying out and preventing weeds from developing while the neighboring vegetables are still small and do not occupy the entire bed.

All cultures prefer different friends - it is necessary to take into account many factors in order to understand what to plant with what in the garden. The compatibility table for the most popular vegetables looks like this:

Pest protectors

Many plants repel or lure insects or animals that feed on vegetable crops. They can be combined in plantings with vulnerable plants or planted between rows for preventive purposes. If you do this correctly, you can significantly reduce the use of chemicals in your garden or eliminate them altogether. Different crops will help protect your garden from the following pests:

Warring vegetables

In addition to plant friends that strengthen and support each other in the garden, there are also very bad neighbors for some species that inhibit their growth and have a bad effect on the harvest. The consequences of planting such “enemies” together are often the attraction of pests, diseases, waterlogging due to which fungi develop, or even the complete cessation of growth of one of the crops. Enemies of the most common garden plants:

Rules for successful combination

In order to get a rich harvest, it is not enough to simply plant suitable crops nearby and protect them from enemy plants - many more factors must be taken into account. It is best to combine species that are favorable to each other, both horizontally and vertically, and also plant them at the right time so that vegetables grown too early do not ruin their neighbors.

Plants in a joint bed should first of all be combined in their preferences for temperature and amount of water. It is also worth considering the structure of their root system - you need to plant vegetables with different root depths nearby so that they do not intersect and there is no competition.

Another important parameter is the amount of nutrients the plant needs. The crop that needs them most is planted in the center of the planting, and less demanding crops are planted on the sides. You should never plant crops with the same height and width of leaves in one bed - one of them will definitely destroy the neighbor.

To properly grow vegetables, you need to know after which crops they can be planted.

Onions, for example, prefer cucumbers, legumes and early varieties of potatoes as predecessors, but do not like it when celery, radish or carrots grew in front of it in the garden. In both small and large crop rotations, you should not use plants of the same family twice in a row: this especially applies to beets, chard and spinach.

Vegetables grow faster in a greenhouse - this is also worth taking into account if you want to create joint plantings there. Before starting work, you need to carefully consider the layout of the beds - take into account the cardinal directions (some crops, such as cucumbers and tomatoes, are grown on the southern sunny side of greenhouses), find those plants that are suitable for the same humidity and temperature, and make sure that none of them didn't hurt anyone else.

Planting vegetables together is a very effective and useful way, which will help to grow a good harvest even under unfavorable conditions or in a small area. Using various tables, you can easily create your own combinations of suitable plants and enjoy tasty and juicy vegetables from the garden every year.

Compatibility of vegetables in beds

Let's think together why mixed plantings are needed? This is when different crops grow not in separate beds, but in adjacent rows or mixed together.

In nature, there are no large areas occupied by one species. In the meadow there is always a mixture of herbs, in the forest there are not only different types of trees, but also shrubs, grasses, and mosses. Even in a field where only one crop is planted after plowing, weeds grow. We, too, can create a vegetable garden in which plants coexist.

Of course, there will be unwanted “aliens” here too, but they won’t cause much harm. This is because a rich, diverse ecosystem will be in balance! How to do this? The answer is simple - use the mixed planting method. To do this, you need to know which plants are good neighbors and plan the area to ensure that different crops are as close as possible. They should not grow in large masses, but in adjacent rows or holes.

Better at the border

It has long been noticed that plants grow better at the border of different ecosystems: at the edge of a forest, on the shore of a reservoir, at the edge of a field. To recreate the border effect I use a spiral bed. On it, the border is twisted into a spiral and there is room for many microclimatic areas: the higher, the drier and warmer, there is a shady and sunny side. I usually plant aromatic plants in a spiral bed. Here is a variant of the plant sequence: sorrel, valerian, onions, peppermint, clary sage, oak sage, garden thyme, oregano, garden strawberry, sage, cumin, rosemary.

You can simply alternate rows, checking the crop compatibility table. However, we must remember that the influence of plants on each other depends on the conditions in which they grow. Sometimes in large numbers they oppress neighbors, and in moderate numbers they are helpers. In general, you will need a creative approach and your observations.

Culture compatibility

First of all, select a main crop (for example, tomatoes). Then choose a neighbor that has a beneficial effect on the main plant. In our case, it could be lettuce or spinach - they will produce a harvest before the tomatoes begin to bear fruit. Tall tomato plants will protect the greens from direct sunlight and create a more favorable microclimate for them. Lettuce can be sown again after harvesting. It is worth planting aromatic herbs nearby that repel pests. You just need to make sure that they don’t drown out the main culture.

Consider the timing of crop ripening. If you harvest one crop early, it is worth finding a replacement plant for it. You can't leave the ground bare. It is mulched and green manure is planted.

When choosing crops, you should pay attention to reducing competition between them. Plants with deep root systems will get along better with those with shallow roots; species with low nutritional requirements will not interfere with those who need a lot of nutrients; tall, spreading crops will protect those that like light partial shade from the sun.

Only the neighbors' water needs should be similar.

Plants with deep root systems:
Eggplant, legumes (except peas), cabbage, leeks, carrots, parsnips, peppers, radishes, beets, celery root, tomatoes, pumpkin.

Plants with a shallow root system:
Lettuce, peas, potatoes, kohlrabi, watercress, corn, onions, cucumbers, parsley, leaf celery, radishes, melon, spinach.

Mixed plantings perform several functions: protecting plants from diseases and pests, increasing yield per unit area, protecting the soil from one-sided depletion, reducing the number of weeds. Fruits and vegetables growing in community with other species taste better: mint improves the taste of potatoes, parsley improves the taste of tomatoes.

If you choose the right plants, they will help each other and delight the owner. This is the most efficient use of your plot of land.

I have been using compaction of crops and joint planting in my garden for a long time. I sow carrots through the row with onions, plant beds with cabbage with savory, and potatoes with beans. And such nursery plants as calendula, marigolds and nasturtium grow throughout the garden.

Cauliflower in marigolds.

"Communal" for celery

I decided to compact the plantings of Brussels sprouts, broccoli and early cabbage by planting celery root between the rows. These cultures go well together. Cabbage stimulates the growth of celery, which drives white butterflies away from the cabbage.

At first everything went like clockwork: both cabbage and celery developed perfectly. But in the second half of summer, where Brussels sprouts and celery grew, I saw that the former was noticeably ahead of its neighbor in growth. Soon the top leaves of the cabbage closed, and my celery was in the lower tier, in dense shade.

I looked after this “communal” bed especially carefully. The cabbage was good, but the celery became “sad” day by day.

I realized that I had made a mistake - it was impossible to plant late-ripening crops nearby. And if you decided to do this, then you had to leave such a distance between them so that everyone had enough space and light. My celery was clearly not getting enough of this. It never formed powerful rhizomes, so we had to be content with only greenery.

Another thing is celery planted with early cabbage! Already in July, all the heads of cabbage were cut off, and the celery remained the rightful owner in the garden. The conclusion suggests itself: any plants first need to create optimal conditions for development, namely: adequate nutrition, watering, lighting. And then the crops planted nearby can remain friends for a long time.

Who is friends with whom?

Everyone knows that onions and carrots are the best friends in the garden. One crop repels pests from another and vice versa. After the carrots have sprouted, I plant onion seedlings into the gaps found.

Sweet couple.

I fill the same gaps in the beets with lettuce. The bed of early radishes can be sown with green manure. But it is more economical to sow radishes directly between the rows of carrots. Carrots grow slowly, the seedlings remain low for a long time and cannot in any way shade the fast-growing radish. This way I get a double harvest from one bed. I sow the seeds of early ripening dill into peas: after a while its tendrils will catch on the dill stems.

I sow beans along the perimeter of the potato plot. At first it is a little stunted in growth, but after digging up the potatoes it develops beautifully and manages to ripen. I add onions to the tomatoes - I plant the sets between the bushes, but only on the greens. After all, tomatoes grow quickly and greatly shade their neighbors.

Otherwise, someone will definitely start harassing their neighbor. In general, everything is like with people. How can one not remember the old saying: “Friendship is friendship, but tobacco is apart!”

Vegetable beds or why do plants need satellites?

Gardeners have long noticed that plants growing nearby influence each other. They release various substances into the environment that their neighbors “like” or “dislike.” For example, early cabbage and tomatoes, late cabbage and early potatoes, tomatoes and celery, beans and potatoes feel good next to each other.

Potatoes and cabbage.

Mustard leaves, marigolds, calendula, and basil heal the soil and help all crops. I plant them along the edge of the beds, at the entrance to the greenhouses.

There is another big plus in mixed plantings. This is the flight of our imagination. Let's get rid of the stereotype that cabbage should sit in even rows! I plant plants randomly (at the corners of a triangle, the contour of a circle), around - nasturtium with marigolds. And the garden bed looks festive. And the smell of flowers scares away butterflies.

Eggplants and marigolds.

I add several phacelia flowers to the cucumbers - and they attract pollinating insects with their smell. So simply the plot turns into a piece of paradise - a place where you can rest your soul.

I place satellite plants in row-spacings or in nests among the main crop. Such mixed plantings create a favorable background, increase resistance to disease and even affect the taste of the fruit. With mixed plantings, soil fatigue does not occur, and the number of pests is significantly reduced, since the smell of their “food” is interrupted by the smell of other plants. In addition, such beds create an ideal refuge for predatory insects that feed on garden pests.

Romance of onions and melons

I have my own method, proven over the years, of growing several crops in one bed. For example, onions with melons and watermelons. The harvest is excellent! In a garden bed (2-2.2 m wide), usually in April - early May (on the waning Moon), I plant onion seedlings along the edge in two rows with a distance of 40-50 cm between them. I place the next two-row from the first at a distance of 90- 100 cm.

At home I sow watermelon and melon seeds for seedlings. Then I carefully transplant the seedlings into open ground, in the center of the onion bed, at a distance of 70-90 cm from each other. To prevent stress and illness, I treat onions and melons with a microbiological preparation and an infusion of wood ash (200 g per 10 liters of water). I water using a drip irrigation system. In mid-summer I harvest the ripened bulbs. After the ovary appears on the vines of watermelons and melons, I leave only 2-3 fruits per bush. They will grow large and tasty. Using the same technology, I add melons to winter garlic.

Text: garden portalhttp://agraruu.net/

In nature, everything is arranged in such a way that plants that grow nearby help each other. Or vice versa - they are fighting for a place in the sun. If you think that only weeds pose a danger to your garden, you are mistaken: nearby beds with “incompatible” plants can ruin the mood of any gardener.

Beans do not like to have onions, peas, garlic, fennel or leeks growing next to them. Beetroot, kohlrabi or sunflower are not the best neighbors for beans.

It is better not to sow potatoes next to tomatoes, peas, cucumbers, celery and pumpkin.

Tomatoes are against proximity to carrots, cauliflower, potatoes, fennel, beets and cucumbers.

Carrots go well with onions, garlic and leeks, as well as beans, peas, tomatoes and lettuce. . Potatoes and beets are also good neighbors, and radishes will not protest against “cohabitation” with cucumbers, cabbage, lettuce, tomatoes or peas.

Potatoes can coexist well with onions, cabbage, beans and corn, while cucumbers, onions and beans do well next to beets.

Lettuce can be safely sown next to radishes, strawberries or cucumbers, and beds with onions will do well near potatoes or carrots. Garlic grows better if tomatoes are grown next to it.

Cunning: garlic is strawberry's best friend. Its aroma repels strawberry pests. Plant garlic 40 cm from the strawberry bed. And if you plant garlic 60 cm from the tomatoes, the latter will not be attacked by rye, and the garlic itself will not be attacked by scab. Plant garlic next to potatoes, as it repels Colorado potato beetles!

Watercress grows well next to carrots, radishes, radishes and lettuce; it is undesirable for it to be adjacent to Asian salads and beets.

Bush beans feel great next to dill, cucumbers, cabbage, broccoli, kohlrabi, coriander, chard, radish, radishes, beets, calendula, celery, sunflowers, and tomatoes. You should not plant it next to peas, onions, green onions, chives and fennel.

Peas tolerate well proximity to fennel, nasturtium, calendula, coriander, carrots, radishes, radish, lettuce, celery and sunflower. Bad neighbors for it are bush beans, watercress, green and onions, chives and tomatoes.

For cucumbers, the proximity to many garden crops is favorable: beans, peas, basil, dill, fennel, white cabbage, kohlrabi, broccoli, coriander, marjoram, beets, lettuce, spinach, onions, sunflowers and calendula. Bad neighbors for cucumbers are tomatoes, radishes, radishes, potatoes, and watercress.

Tomatoes grow well next to basil, beans, dill, watercress, green onions, carrots, radishes, radishes, lettuce, celery, chives, spinach, calendula and nasturtium. It is undesirable to be next to cucumbers, kohlrabi, fennel and sunflowers.

Kohlrabi grows well next to basil, beans, dill, cucumbers, coriander, carrots, parsley, radishes, radishes, beets, lettuce, celery, spinach, tomato, calendula and nasturtium. The proximity to watercress, turnips and onions is unfavorable for it.

Good neighbors for white cabbage and broccoli are peas, dill, cucumbers, carrots, chard, beets, celery, spinach, tomatoes, calendula and nasturtium. Do not plant cabbage next to watercress and onions.

Coriander grows well next to cucumbers, kohlrabi, broccoli, white cabbage, carrots, parsnips, lettuce and onions. Neighborhood with watercress, fennel and parsley has a negative impact on the state of the crop.

For green onions, proximity to basil, kohlrabi, broccoli, white cabbage, turnips, carrots, parsnips, parsley, calendula, celery, spinach, tomatoes and onions is favorable. Beans, peas, watercress, chard and beets are bad neighbors for green onions.

Chives, radishes, radishes, broccoli, cabbage, kohlrabi, watercress, peas, and beans are bad neighbors for onions.

Turnips grow well next to peas, dill, marjoram, chard, parsnip, radish, radishes, lettuce, celery, spinach and nasturtium. The proximity to tomatoes, kohlrabi and white cabbage is unfavorable for it.

The best neighbors for carrots are beans, peas, dill, watercress, onions and green onions, marjoram, chard, parsley, radish, radish, lettuce, chives, spinach, tomatoes, sage and calendula. The neighborhood with beets is unfavorable.

Radishes and radishes grow well alongside watercress, chervil, nasturtium, chives, parsley, carrots, calendula, lettuce, spinach and tomatoes. It is not advisable to plant radishes and radishes next to cucumbers, basil and chard.

For beets, proximity to beans, dill, coriander, parsnips, lettuce, onions, zucchini, calendula and nasturtium is favorable.

The proximity to green onions, chard, parsley, chives, spinach and corn is unfavorable.

Parsley grows well next to carrots, radishes, radishes, onions and calendula. It is not advisable to grow parsley next to chervil, watercress, coriander and nasturtium.

Leaf and head lettuce develop better next to beans, peas, dill, fennel, chervil, nasturtium, kohlrabi, white turnips, parsnips, radishes, radishes, calendula, chives, tomatoes, corn and turnips onions The proximity to parsley and celery is unfavorable.

Chives grow well next to kohlrabi, carrots, parsnips, celery, spinach, tomatoes, nasturtium and calendula. It is undesirable to be near beans, peas, watercress, broccoli, white cabbage, coriander and beets.

For celery, proximity to beans, kohlrabi, broccoli, white cabbage, turnips, green onions, parsnips, tomatoes and spinach is favorable. Celery should not be planted next to watercress, corn, lettuce, or lettuce.

Spinach grows well next to beans, dill, kohlrabi, broccoli, cabbage, marjoram, radishes, radishes, lettuce, and tomatoes. The proximity to watercress, chard, and beets is unfavorable.

For zucchini, proximity to basil, beans, turnips, chard, radish, radishes, beets, onions, and nasturtium is favorable.

It is not advisable to plant zucchini next to cucumbers.

As a rule, in mixed crops, early-, mid- and late-ripening species and crops are combined, and the harvest is carried out sequentially, which frees up space for the development of the plants remaining in the bed. It is also possible to combine light-loving and shade-tolerant crops in compacted crops.

Along with traditional combinations of garden crops, you can try new ones. For example, plant spicy crops along the vegetable beds - dill, fennel, basil, the essential oils of which repel cabbage butterflies and carrot flies. You can prevent the invasion of nematodes in your garden by planting calendula along the beds, and get rid of aphids by planting nasturtium.

Growing onions and carrots together. These crops repel onion and carrot flies from the beds. For joint cultivation, onion sets and early varieties of carrots are used, as well as winter onions and late varieties of carrots.

Below are other possible options for mixed crops.

• head lettuce and fennel;
• chicory and late-ripening white cabbage;
• cabbage, leeks and fennel;
• lettuce and wintering onions;
• spinach, cabbage, tomato, bush beans and red beets;
• chard, carrots, cabbage and radishes;
• bush beans, tomato, cucumber, white cabbage, lettuce, celery and red beets;
• curly beans, tomato, cucumber and nas-Türkiye;
• fava beans, lettuce and kohlrabi;
• onions, carrots, endive lettuce, head lettuce, cucumber, dill and savory;
• leeks, bush beans, cauliflower and lettuce;
• tomato, celery, lettuce and white cabbage;
• carrots, leeks, peas, tomatoes, endive, chives, radishes and chard;
• red beets, bush beans, kohl rabi, lettuce, cucumber and peas;
• cabbage, potatoes, lettuce, celery, spinach, lettuce, leeks, and peas;
• cucumber, beans, peas, beans, celery, corn, beets, lettuce, white cabbage, fennel, dill, cumin and coriander;
• tomato, celery, parsley, lettuce, white cabbage and nasturtium;
• potatoes, cabbage, horseradish, peas, fava beans, caraway seeds and nasturtium.

Each crop in the garden has its own characteristics. One requires enough light, the other feels comfortable in partial shade. The requirements for irrigation and occupied space are also different. The root system of plants is also different. In some plants it goes deep into the soil, while in others the roots are located near the surface of the earth. In addition, some plants have a detrimental effect on one or another pest. What if we take into account all the features of garden crops and combine them during planting?

Compatibility of crops in the garden It will make it possible not only to rationally use the area for planting, but also to naturally protect plants from diseases and pests, to ensure proper growth and maturation for plants, thereby increasing the quality and quantity of the harvest.

If you place crops correctly on your site, then even in non-black soil conditions and a small plot it is possible to get a decent harvest from the garden. Crop compatibility in the garden is practiced by mixed and compacted crops. Cultures must be selected taking into account their mutual influence on each other.

Compatibility of crops in the garden

B azil gets along well with peas and kohlrabi, but does not like being next to cucumbers.

Eggplant I agree to be adjacent to green annual herbs, onions, beans, peppers, bush beans, spinach, thyme, amaranth. Fennel and peas are not the most suitable neighbors for eggplant.

B oby vegetable they feel great with peas, cabbage, potatoes, corn, carrots, nightshades, parsley, rhubarb, radishes, cucumbers, beets, and garden savory. Onions, fennel, garlic and pumpkin are incompatible with beans.

Peas will be happy next to white cabbage, watercress, sweet corn, potatoes, carrots, aromatic herbs, spinach and lettuce. On the contrary, he will not be happy with onions, tomatoes, beans, garlic, or zucchini.

Mustard perfectly compatible with cabbage (white cabbage, Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi, cauliflower), peas, radish. Other plants in the garden will also suit mustard as neighbors.

D icon, for example, he doesn’t like his neighbors at all and is not fit to be a neighbor himself!

Dynya compatible with sweet corn, pumpkin, zucchini, radishes. But it doesn’t get along well with onions and potatoes.

And medicinal ssop Doesn't get along well with crops in the garden.

Go to the abacus grows well next to tomatoes, beets, onions, corn, melon, pumpkin, borage, nasturtium. Potatoes and white cabbage are bad neighbors for zucchini.

Cabbage cabbage feels great next to dill, celery, onions, garlic, lettuce, potatoes, cucumbers, radishes, beets, beans, spinach, mint, nasturtium, marigolds, and is not friendly with tomatoes, carrots, table beans and climbing beans and peas.

Broccoli compatible with potatoes, onions, carrots, parsley, head lettuce, beets, celery, sage, chard, marigolds. Broccoli does not get along well with tomatoes and beans.

To apusta kohlrabi will be happy to be next to onions, cucumbers, aromatic plants, radishes, lettuce, beets, peas, fennel, spinach. Bad proximity to tomatoes and beans.
To leafy cabbage gets along well with all plants in the garden, but especially with late white cabbage and potatoes.

To the apusta savoy does not get along well with all crops in the garden.

Cauliflower will feel comfortable with potatoes, cucumber, lettuce, celery, beans, beans, dill, hyssop, mint, nasturtium, sage. Neighborhood with tomatoes and strawberries will not work.

Potato gets along well with beans, corn, cabbage, horseradish, eggplant and onions, beans, calendula, corn, onions, radishes, radishes, garlic, but absolutely will not tolerate the proximity of tomatoes, cucumbers, pumpkins, sorrel, fennel.

To the spring salad He will be happy to have radishes next to him, but other plants in the garden will not bother him.

Kruknek and Lagenaria love to grow up alone.

Corn will be favorable to peas, zucchini, late white cabbage, potatoes, cucumbers, pumpkin, beans, beans, and salad. Does not get along well with beets and fennel.

Leek a good neighbor for onions, carrots, celery.

Bulb onions compatible with Brussels sprouts, carrots, lettuce, beets, cucumbers, tomatoes, chicory, savory, potatoes, strawberries. It will feel bad next to peas, radishes, beans, beans, cabbage, and radish.

Garden marjoram Compatible with carrots, but will not tolerate cucumbers nearby.

Carrot It is good to plant next to tomatoes, peas, broccoli, leeks, onions, cucumber, parsley, radishes, lettuce, beets, sage, spinach, radish, celery. Incompatible plants for carrots: dill, anise, fennel, cabbage, chard.

O Gurtsy It is very good to plant with peas or late white cabbage, sweet corn, onions, carrots, radishes, lettuce, dill, beans, garlic, fennel, but they should not be planted next to potatoes and aromatic herbs. Tomatoes, sage, asparagus, zucchini, rhubarb, turnips, and leeks will also be bad neighbors.

P asternak goes well with salad. But his friendship with onions and garlic fails.

P Attison prefers loneliness, he does not like anyone's proximity.

Pepper compatible with eggplants, tomatoes, basil, carrots, lovage, marjoram, oregano, and onions. Will not be too happy with dill, fennel, cucumber, kohlrabi.

Leaf parsley will be happy to share a bed with basil, onions, cucumbers, asparagus, tomatoes, beans, and carrots. She won’t be too happy with head lettuce.

Reven goes well with peas, cabbage, radishes, lettuce, celery, beans and spinach. But he will not be happy with turnips, potatoes, cucumbers, carrots, radishes, beets, tomatoes and onions.

R edis goes well with cabbage, carrots, turnips, lettuce, tomatoes, beans, beans, fennel, spinach, zucchini, pumpkin. It will not suit its proximity to onions and chard beets.

Radish friends- beets, spinach, carrots, parsnips, cucumber, pumpkin and tomato (plant without thickening), and enemies hyssop, onions, fennel.

Repa feels good next to onions (all types), beets, spinach, celery, lettuce, bush beans, dill. It is important to plant plants freely in the garden bed. Turnips will feel uncomfortable next to potatoes.

From alatu Such neighbors as: cabbage, carrots, beets, dill are suitable.

Beet gets along well with all cabbage, onions, carrots, cucumbers, lettuce, zucchini, garlic, and beans. A bad combination with potatoes and mustard.

Celery compatible with white cabbage, cauliflower, kohlrabi, onion, tomato, beans, cucumber, spinach. Celery is not compatible with lettuce and potatoes.

With parge grows well next to basil, parsley and tomato. Onions of all kinds are bad neighbors for asparagus.

Tomatoes (tomatoes) will grow well with basil, cabbage, all onions, parsley, radishes, radishes, lettuce, asparagus, beans, garlic, beans, corn, carrots, spinach. Bad companions for tomatoes are peas, potatoes, kohlrabi cabbage, quinoa, cucumbers, turnips, dill, fennel.

Pumpkin goes well with zucchini, squash, and melon. The pumpkin will not be happy only with potatoes.

Beans ordinary grows wonderfully next to peas, cabbages, potatoes, corn, carrots, nightshades, parsley, rhubarb, radishes, cucumbers, beets, and garden savory. Onions, pumpkin, garlic, and fennel do not get along well with common beans.

Bush asol compatible with cucumber, potato, cabbage, lettuce, turnip, radish, radish, rhubarb, celery, spinach, tomato. It will not be a very good combination with asparagus, string beans, zucchini, and fennel.

Horseradish goes well with potatoes.

Ts Ikoriy salad will accept onions, carrots, tomatoes, and fennel well.

Black garden compatible with watercress, onions, parsley, tomatoes, beans, dill, spinach. A cucumber is not suitable as a neighbor.

Garlic will readily make friends with carrots, cucumbers, parsley, lettuce, tomatoes, beets, celery, and beans. Garlic will not grow comfortably next to peas, cabbage, and beans.

Spinach compatible with the following crops: cabbage (all types), potatoes, carrots, turnips, garden strawberries, beets, beans, tomatoes. Zucchini, asparagus, and fennel do not go well with spinach.

For convenience, use the table of crop compatibility in the garden:

Vegetable crop compatibility table:

Another important aspect when selecting components for mixed crops on your site is:

The ability of some plants to repel harmful insects

Onion has a repellent effect on spider mites;

M akhorka for cabbage fly;

Garlic And wormwood cruciferous flea beetles will not like it;

tomatoes have a bad effect on the copperhead and moth;

The smell of celery repels cabbage fly.

You can also fight harmful insects with the help of wild plants

For this, gardeners and gardeners often use infusions.

For example:

The drug from chamomile inflorescences repels and even kills many garden pests.

To prepare the drug, chamomile inflorescences are collected and dried. After which they are ground into powder and mixed with an equal amount of road dust.

For spraying take 200 g. powder, stir in a small amount of water and add water to the norm of 10 liters. This drug is absolutely harmless, and it can be used to treat various crops even before harvesting.

Against aphids and spider mites, which greatly harm cucumbers and cabbage, plants are sprayed with an infusion of potato tops.

In order to prepare such an infusion, we need 1.2 kg of crushed mass. Infuse for 2-3 hours in 10 liters of water and filter.

For the same purpose you can use:

ABOUTcreatures of stepchildren and tomato tops.

To do this, take green mass at the rate of 40 grams per 1 liter of water and, after chopping, boil over low heat for up to 30 minutes. One glass of the decoction obtained in this way is enough for 1 liter of water. Add 30 grams of soap or washing powder to the prepared decoction and spray the plants.

An infusion of onion peels, chamomile, tobacco, garlic, yarrow, horse sorrel roots and dandelion leaves also helps against aphids and mites.

We will tell you more about pests and crop compatibility in detail in future publications.

Great( 89 ) Badly( 3 )