Good neighbors are the key to successful harvests! Mixed plantings: what can be planted with what in one bed Combination of plants in beds

Fresh vegetables, just picked from the garden, are rich in vitamins important for life and are especially aromatic. Every gardener is proud of the harvest he produces. However, to obtain a healthy and rich harvest, it is important to plan the sequence and combination of various vegetables in a timely manner. Let's try to figure this out.

We choose neighbors in the vegetable patch. © woodleywonderworks Content:

Planting plan

It is best to use the winter months to plan your plantings as you need to think about the following: Distribution of beds. It is optimal to divide the area into 2 or 3 parts with different nutrient contents. So, on the one hand, you can swap strong and weak consumers, on the other hand, different types of vegetables.

Sequencing crops throughout the year: This means planning short early crops, then the main crop, so that the bed is used optimally all year. Mixed crops: It's also worth thinking about which vegetables can and cannot be combined.

Nutrient requirements of vegetables

The nutrient requirements of individual types of vegetables vary significantly.

Regarding nitrogen requirements, vegetables can be divided into strong, medium and weak consumers. These needs must be taken into account when preparing beds and applying fertilizers.

• Strong consumers(high nitrogen requirement): green, white and red cabbage, Chinese cabbage, kale, Brussels sprouts and cauliflower, broccoli, celery, onions, chard, tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, zucchini, pumpkin.
• Average consumers(average nitrogen requirement): carrots, red beets, radishes, scorzonera, kohlrabi, onions, potatoes, fennel, eggplant, spinach, field lettuce, head lettuce, chicory.
• Weak consumers(low nitrogen requirement): peas, beans, radishes, nasturtium (bedbug), herbs and spices.

What to combine and with what

Planting several types of vegetables in your garden will greatly increase your harvest. The right combination of several types of vegetables promotes healthy growth, reduces the likelihood of disease, creates a favorable habitat for beneficial insects and repels various pests.

But at the same time, simultaneous planting of several types of vegetables together also has its disadvantages, because not all plants can get along with each other. A few simple tips will introduce you to the most common possible combinations when growing vegetables:

• Asparagus goes well with many vegetables, but tomatoes, parsley and basil are more suitable for it.
• Bush beans get along well with potatoes, cucumbers, corn, strawberries and celery, but do not tolerate onions. On the contrary, regular beans are more capricious - they grow successfully next to corn and radishes, and do not get along at all with beets and onions.
• Representatives of the cabbage family (broccoli, Brussels sprouts, white cabbage, cauliflower, cabbage, etc.) get along well with many other vegetables. Their “neighbors” can be beets, celery, cucumbers, lettuce, onions, potatoes and spinach. But there are also undesirable plants, such as regular beans, strawberries, tomatoes, etc.
• Carrots can be grown alongside many vegetables: beans, lettuce, rosemary, onions, sage and tomatoes. However, carrots should not be planted next to dill.
• Celery is also unpretentious to other vegetables planted nearby. It can be planted next to onions, members of the cabbage family, tomatoes and bush beans. Just like asparagus, there are no specific vegetables for celery that can have a negative impact on its growth.
• Corn should be planted away from tomatoes, but near potatoes, beans, peas, pumpkins, cucumbers, etc.
• Cucumbers do not like to grow near aromatic herbs and potatoes, but they greatly benefit from being planted near beans, corn and peas.
• Lettuce is an extremely unpretentious plant that can grow next to any vegetables. But it is best to plant it next to carrots, strawberries and cucumbers.
• It is better to plant onions near beets, carrots, lettuce and members of the cabbage family. However, it is better not to plant it next to beans and peas if you want to reap a good harvest later.
• Peas are best planted next to carrots, turnips, cucumbers, corn and beans, but never next to onions or potatoes.
• Speaking of potatoes, they are best planted near beans, corn and members of the cabbage family for good results. Potatoes should not be planted next to pumpkins, tomatoes and cucumbers.
• Lastly, tomatoes are one of the most common vegetables grown during the summer season. For best results, tomatoes should be planted next to onions, asparagus, carrots, parsley or cucumbers, but away from potatoes and various members of the cabbage family.

The above is by no means a complete list. There are certainly many other vegetables that can be grown in the garden, and this article could be double or even triple the length if everything was covered in detail. But the vegetables described in this article are the most common. This will help you properly plan and organize your garden for next year.

Try planting vegetables in different combinations. You will understand that at the same time they will be much healthier, which, in turn, will provide you and your family members with tasty and healthy food.

Plants that should not be planted nearby

Among garden plants, relationships of mutual assistance are much more common than relationships of hostility. Poor compatibility of plants is most often explained by their root or leaf secretions, which can inhibit the growth of neighboring crops. The secretions of some plants have a specific inhibitory effect only on one or two other species. For example, sage does not get along with onions, turnips suffer from the proximity of the reedweed and knotweed, marigolds have a bad effect on beans, wormwood - on peas and beans, tansy - on kale, quinoa - on potatoes.

There are plant species that produce substances that are poorly tolerated by most other species. An example is black walnut, which secretes a substance called juglone, which inhibits the growth of most vegetables, azaleas, rhododendrons, blackberries, peonies, and apple trees.

The close proximity of wormwood is also undesirable for most vegetables.

Among vegetable plants there is also an uncooperative, or, as they say, “asocial” species that has a bad effect on many cultivated plants. This is fennel. It damages tomatoes, bush beans, cumin, peas, beans and spinach.

Some weeds of field crops not only compete with them for water and nutrition, but also suppress them with their secretions. Wheat is oppressed by a large number of poppy and chamomile plants, rapeseed and field mustard. Rye, on the contrary, itself inhibits the growth of weeds, and if it is sown for two years in a row in one place, then wheatgrass will disappear from this field. Other cultivated plants are also capable of inhibiting the growth of weeds. From them they are trying to isolate the substances responsible for this action in order to create environmentally friendly herbicides based on them.

A striking example of a negative interaction is the relationship between clover and all plants from the ranunculaceae family. The substance ranunculin is formed in their roots, which, even in extremely low concentrations, inhibits the growth of nodule bacteria and therefore makes the soil unsuitable for clover. If a buttercup appears in a field of perennial grasses, then the clover here will soon completely disappear.

The American biologist R.B. Gregg, in his book on herbs, gives such a devastating characteristic of the buttercup family. “Delphinium, peony, aconite and some other garden flowers belong to the ranunculaceae family, which is very strong and viable, but lives only for itself. They require large amounts of organic fertilizers, and leave behind lifeless humus. The plants next to them won’t grow well without plenty of compost.”

In the kingdom of trees, according to the same author, spruce is distinguished by its aggressive character. It is hostile to all other trees; the adverse effects of spruce appear in the soil within 15 years after its felling.

There are many examples of such relationships when in large quantities plants have a depressing effect on a crop, but in small quantities they are beneficial for its growth. It is recommended to plant such plants along the edges of vegetable beds, but only in small quantities. This applies to white nettle (dead nettle), sainfoin, valerian, and yarrow. Chamomile in large quantities is harmful to wheat, but in a ratio of 1:100 it contributes to better grain quality.

Aromatic herbs

Aromatic herbs, whose leaves emit a large amount of volatile substances, are good companions for many garden plants. Their volatile secretions have a beneficial effect on vegetables growing nearby: they make them healthier, and in some cases significantly affect the taste. For example, fragrant basil improves the taste of tomatoes, and dill improves the taste of cabbage.

The well-known dandelion emits large amounts of ethylene gas, which accelerates the ripening of fruits. Therefore, its neighborhood is favorable for apple trees and many vegetable crops. Most aromatic herbs - lavender, borage, sage, hyssop, parsley, dill, savory, marjoram, chamomile, crevel - work well on almost all vegetables. Planted along the edges of beds or plots, white nettle (deaf nettle), valerian, and yarrow make vegetable plants healthier and more resistant to disease.

Dynamic plants are those that have a good effect on everyone and everything, maintaining overall tone: nettle, chamomile, valerian, dandelion, yarrow.

• “Tyrants” that oppress all “neighbors” without exception: fennel and wormwood. Everything around fennel really suffers. Him - to the fence.
• “Helpers” for everyone are lettuce and spinach. They release substances that enhance the activity of roots and plants and shade the soil. So everyone is fed!
• All umbelliferous plants “quarrel” with each other, except carrots: parsley, celery, parsnips, lovage, dill, cilantro. It is better to plant these apart.

It is useful to plant marigolds around a bed of herbs: they will provide excellent protection against pests.

To get rid of wireworms (the larva of the click beetle), plant beans next to carrots. No matter what part of your plot you plant your favorite root vegetables on, carrots are never spoiled by this pest.

Let's think together why mixed plantings are needed? This is when different crops grow not in separate beds, but in adjacent rows or mixed together.

In nature, there are no large areas occupied by one species. In the meadow there is always a mixture of herbs, in the forest there are not only different types of trees, but also shrubs, grasses, and mosses. Even in a field where only one crop is planted after plowing, weeds grow. We, too, can create a vegetable garden in which plants coexist.

Of course, there will be unwanted “aliens” here too, but they won’t cause much harm. This is because a rich, diverse ecosystem will be in balance! How to do this? The answer is simple - use the mixed planting method. To do this, you need to know which plants are good neighbors and plan the area to ensure that different crops are as close as possible. They should not grow in large masses, but in adjacent rows or holes.

Better at the border

It has long been noticed that plants grow better at the border of different ecosystems: at the edge of a forest, on the shore of a reservoir, at the edge of a field. To recreate the border effect I use a spiral bed. On it, the border is twisted into a spiral and there is room for many microclimatic areas: the higher, the drier and warmer, there is a shady and sunny side. I usually plant aromatic plants in a spiral bed. Here is a variant of the plant sequence: sorrel, valerian, onions, peppermint, clary sage, oak sage, garden thyme, oregano, garden strawberry, sage, cumin, rosemary.

You can simply alternate rows, checking the crop compatibility table. However, we must remember that the influence of plants on each other depends on the conditions in which they grow. Sometimes in large numbers they oppress neighbors, and in moderate numbers they are helpers. In general, you will need a creative approach and your observations.

Culture compatibility

First of all, select a main crop (for example, tomatoes). Then choose a neighbor that has a beneficial effect on the main plant. In our case, it could be lettuce or spinach - they will produce a harvest before the tomatoes begin to bear fruit. Tall tomato plants will protect the greens from direct sunlight and create a more favorable microclimate for them. Lettuce can be sown again after harvesting. It is worth planting aromatic herbs nearby that repel pests. You just need to make sure that they don’t drown out the main culture.

Consider the timing of crop ripening. If you harvest one crop early, it is worth finding a replacement plant for it. You can't leave the ground bare. It is mulched and green manure is planted.

When choosing crops, you should pay attention to reducing competition between them. Plants with deep root systems will get along better with those with shallow roots; species with low nutritional requirements will not interfere with those who need a lot of nutrients; tall, spreading crops will protect those that like light partial shade from the sun.

Only the neighbors' water needs should be similar.

Plants with deep root systems:
Eggplant, legumes (except peas), cabbage, leeks, carrots, parsnips, peppers, radishes, beets, celery root, tomatoes, pumpkin.

Plants with a shallow root system:
Lettuce, peas, potatoes, kohlrabi, watercress, corn, onions, cucumbers, parsley, leaf celery, radishes, melon, spinach.

Mixed plantings perform several functions: protecting plants from diseases and pests, increasing yield per unit area, protecting the soil from one-sided depletion, reducing the number of weeds. Fruits and vegetables growing in community with other species taste better: mint improves the taste of potatoes, parsley improves the taste of tomatoes.

If you choose the right plants, they will help each other and delight the owner. This is the most efficient use of your plot of land.

I have been using compaction of crops and joint planting in my garden for a long time. I sow carrots through the row with onions, plant beds with cabbage with savory, and potatoes with beans. And such nursery plants as calendula, marigolds and nasturtium grow throughout the garden.

Cauliflower in marigolds.

"Communal" for celery

I decided to compact the plantings of Brussels sprouts, broccoli and early cabbage by planting celery root between the rows. These cultures go well together. Cabbage stimulates the growth of celery, which drives white butterflies away from the cabbage.

At first everything went like clockwork: both cabbage and celery developed perfectly. But in the second half of summer, where Brussels sprouts and celery grew, I saw that the former was noticeably ahead of its neighbor in growth. Soon the top leaves of the cabbage closed, and my celery was in the lower tier, in dense shade.

I looked after this “communal” bed especially carefully. The cabbage was good, but the celery became “sad” day by day.

I realized that I had made a mistake - it was impossible to plant late-ripening crops nearby. And if you decided to do this, then you had to leave such a distance between them so that everyone had enough space and light. My celery was clearly not getting enough of this. It never formed powerful rhizomes, so we had to be content with only greenery.

Another thing is celery planted with early cabbage! Already in July, all the heads of cabbage were cut off, and the celery remained the rightful owner in the garden. The conclusion suggests itself: any plants first need to create optimal conditions for development, namely: adequate nutrition, watering, lighting. And then the crops planted nearby can remain friends for a long time.

Who is friends with whom?

Everyone knows that onions and carrots are the best friends in the garden. One crop repels pests from another and vice versa. After the carrots have sprouted, I plant onion seedlings into the gaps found.

Sweet couple.

I fill the same gaps in the beets with lettuce. The bed of early radishes can be sown with green manure. But it is more economical to sow radishes directly between the rows of carrots. Carrots grow slowly, the seedlings remain low for a long time and cannot in any way shade the fast-growing radish. This way I get a double harvest from one bed. I sow the seeds of early ripening dill into peas: after a while its tendrils will catch on the dill stems.

I sow beans along the perimeter of the potato plot. At first it is a little stunted in growth, but after digging up the potatoes it develops beautifully and manages to ripen. I add onions to the tomatoes - I plant the sets between the bushes, but only on the greens. After all, tomatoes grow quickly and greatly shade their neighbors.

Otherwise, someone will definitely start harassing their neighbor. In general, everything is like with people. How can one not remember the old saying: “Friendship is friendship, but tobacco is apart!”

Vegetable beds or why do plants need satellites?

Gardeners have long noticed that plants growing nearby influence each other. They release various substances into the environment that their neighbors “like” or “dislike.” For example, early cabbage and tomatoes, late cabbage and early potatoes, tomatoes and celery, beans and potatoes feel good next to each other.

Potatoes and cabbage.

Mustard leaves, marigolds, calendula, and basil heal the soil and help all crops. I plant them along the edge of the beds, at the entrance to the greenhouses.

There is another big plus in mixed plantings. This is the flight of our imagination. Let's get rid of the stereotype that cabbage should sit in even rows! I plant plants randomly (at the corners of a triangle, the contour of a circle), around - nasturtium with marigolds. And the garden bed looks festive. And the smell of flowers scares away butterflies.

Eggplants and marigolds.

I add several phacelia flowers to the cucumbers - and they attract pollinating insects with their smell. So simply the plot turns into a piece of paradise - a place where you can rest your soul.

I place satellite plants in row-spacings or in nests among the main crop. Such mixed plantings create a favorable background, increase resistance to disease and even affect the taste of the fruit. With mixed plantings, soil fatigue does not occur, and the number of pests is significantly reduced, since the smell of their “food” is interrupted by the smell of other plants. In addition, such beds create an ideal refuge for predatory insects that feed on garden pests.

Romance of onions and melons

I have my own method, proven over the years, of growing several crops in one bed. For example, onions with melons and watermelons. The harvest is excellent! In a garden bed (2-2.2 m wide), usually in April - early May (on the waning Moon), I plant onion seedlings along the edge in two rows with a distance of 40-50 cm between them. I place the next two-row from the first at a distance of 90- 100 cm.

At home I sow watermelon and melon seeds for seedlings. Then I carefully transplant the seedlings into open ground, in the center of the onion bed, at a distance of 70-90 cm from each other. To prevent stress and illness, I treat onions and melons with a microbiological preparation and an infusion of wood ash (200 g per 10 liters of water). I water using a drip irrigation system. In mid-summer I harvest the ripened bulbs. After the ovary appears on the vines of watermelons and melons, I leave only 2-3 fruits per bush. They will grow large and tasty. Using the same technology, I add melons to winter garlic.

Text: garden portalhttp://agraruu.net/

Most gardeners are looking forward to spring warmth, which will mark the beginning of a new dacha season and give owners of personal plots the opportunity to plant seeds and seedlings of vegetable crops in the ground. Fertile soil for garden beds, the use of modern fertilizers and good quality seedlings are of significant importance. These factors will certainly affect the harvest harvested in the fall. However, in addition to this, to achieve maximum results, one more factor should be taken into account when drawing up a planting plan. We are talking about the compatibility of vegetables in the garden, which will be covered in this review.

First of all, a summer resident should find information about the peculiarities of growing certain vegetable crops that he plans to sow in the upcoming season. A table of compatibility of vegetables in the garden, which can easily be found on the Internet or in specialized literature for gardeners, will play a good role in studying this issue. Using the table, the information in which is presented in schematic form, the summer resident will be able to learn the basics of proper crop planning and learn about the compatibility of vegetable crops in the garden that belong to different plant families and differ in growth vigor, type of fruit and development characteristics.

As discussed in an earlier review, plants can influence each other's growth quality. Moreover, this influence can be both negative and favorable. To ensure that good and bad neighbors in a garden bed do not jeopardize the future harvest, before setting up a plot, a summer resident should familiarize himself with the peculiarities of planting certain crops. For example, one of the most popular types of tuberous crops, potatoes, should not be planted in the same area as zucchini, tomatoes and pumpkins. These plants do not have the required level of compatibility and can become a source of additional trouble for the owner of the site.

To avoid problems and get an excellent potato harvest, in the spring the tubers should be planted in the ground next to the crops of coriander, radishes, beans or cabbage.

Potatoes also go well with watermelon. This proximity will make it easier to process the beds, as well as eliminate possible hassles associated with watering, treating with herbicides, etc. Also, many summer residents plant cucumbers on their plots. These vegetables have a wide range of uses - they can be eaten fresh, and also used in numerous recipes for canning for future use. Therefore, quite often garden owners ask the question of what can be planted after cucumbers in the garden and how to achieve maximum yield for this crop.

The answer to this question will also be suggested by the table, which describes the optimal proximity of vegetables in the beds and gives recommendations on the correct sowing of the plot. By selecting the appropriate crop in the table – in this case, cucumbers – you can see what to plant in the garden beds.

Cucumbers go well with crops such as:

1. broccoli;
2. celery;
3. Chinese cabbage;
4. beet;
5. spinach;
6. asparagus, etc.

The best predecessors of cucumbers are peas, potatoes, onions, and cabbage. As for undesirable “companions” for cucumbers, they are represented by the following list of crops:

• tomatoes;
• sage;
• rhubarb;
• turnip;
• zucchini.

Similar rules exist for planting other popular plants. In particular, when preparing for planting in the spring, the carrot bed should not be placed next to the crops of rhubarb, turnips and cucumbers; it will also not get along with raspberry bushes, like any other vegetable, they will simply wither in dense vegetation. Also, a summer resident can choose good vegetables for carrots; neighbors in the garden; the compatibility table will help make this as simple as possible.

So, the following crops will coexist with carrots in the garden:
- parsley;
- tomato;
- garlic;
- onion;
- beans.

Almost every owner of a summer cottage purchases cabbage seedlings at the market in the spring. Knowing what can be planted after cabbage in the garden, he will be able to see the result of his investment and get dense plugs with crispy leaves within a few months after planting the crop in the ground. Experts recommend placing beds with garlic, beets, dill, radishes and lettuce next to cabbage crops.

It is better to abandon the idea of ​​sowing crops such as oregano, potatoes and tomatoes next to white cabbage due to the poor compatibility of these plants. If you want to get an excellent harvest of cauliflower, the compatibility of planting vegetables in the garden should also be taken into account. Thus, legumes, as well as celery, dill and sage, are considered good companions for this plant. Plants such as strawberries and tomatoes can have a negative impact on the development of cauliflower inflorescences. Therefore, beds with these plants should be placed at a sufficient distance from cauliflower crops.

Compatibility table for vegetables in the garden

Knowing what to plant after the strawberries in the garden, and what is better to place away from the crops of this plant, the summer resident will be able to use the available resources of his site in the most appropriate way. He will be able to lay out the right beds for strawberries, which will not have a negative impact on the growth qualities of neighboring vegetable crops.

Eggplant is considered the most unpretentious vegetable. This vegetable can coexist favorably with most traditional vegetable crops planted by summer residents. An eggplant will produce a good harvest no matter what neighbors surround it. These can be leafy vegetables, potatoes, legumes and others. In a similar way, all neighboring plants in the garden are selected; a compatibility table of which can be printed by the summer resident in advance.

Absolutely few people know that champignons can be grown in the garden or vegetable garden as vegetables in the beds.

They are considered unpretentious mushrooms, so they can be grown anywhere, the main thing is to monitor the temperature and avoid direct sunlight.

Crop rotation and its features

Modern summer residents cannot always allocate enough time to understand all the intricacies of planting vegetable crops. Therefore, often their expectations are not met and instead of harvesting, they see how their garden plot or grandmother’s small bed in the village is covered with weeds, and the plants die from pest attacks. In order to avoid these negative phenomena, when planning a site, it is worth taking into account not only the distribution by cardinal directions and compatibility of vegetable crops, but also the features of crop rotation.

Optimal crop rotation of vegetables in the beds is achieved by annually changing the sowing plan. Since annual planting of crops in the same order leads to soil depletion and deterioration of soil fertility, agricultural experts advise changing the location of the beds. Crop rotation will give tangible results in the first year. It will manifest itself in the form of maintaining soil fertility and achieving excellent yields of crops placed in the beds.

Features of processing beds with vegetable crops

Having understood the peculiarities of placing compatible crops, the owner of a summer cottage will be able to optimize the planting plan and extract the maximum result from the available resources. However, we should not forget about traditional methods of increasing productivity. These include mulching the beds to prevent the soil from warming up, organizing watering, and choosing the right time to weed crops and treat them against pests. It is also important to choose the right size of beds, which will allow you to process the soil with gardening tools most effectively. The size of the beds is selected individually, taking into account the specific layout of the site. You can read how to properly plan and make beds.

Optimally planned crop rotation in the beds in combination with the correct choice of “neighboring” crops during sowing will save time on processing the garden and will be the key to a good harvest. With such a responsible approach to planting vegetable crops, soil resources are used most efficiently, and the crops themselves act as a natural barrier to protect neighboring plants from pests and diseases.

A wide variety of vegetable crops are grown on the dacha plot. They belong to different families, and their planting dates do not coincide. In small gardens, compact cultivation is used. How to ensure the compatibility of vegetable crops in one bed in a limited space?

Good predecessors

Every year, before the start of the gardening season, you should carefully consider the placement of plants in the garden. It is best to create a planting plan that will be useful for the coming season. Different ones can oppress each other or contribute to the spread of dangerous diseases. However, compatible plants, on the contrary, will promote better development and protect against pests. To avoid mistakes, you must follow certain rules.

The area for compacted planting provides additional nutrition for the increased volume of plants. To do this, the soil must be sufficiently fertile and clean. At the beginning of the season, crop rotation is planned. Plants that were grown last year should not have the same pathogens and pests. At the same time, they must have a beneficial effect on each other, so the compatibility of plants in the garden is important. The best predecessor table is a guide to start planning.

An analysis of last year's plantings is carried out. The right choice will help you avoid many unpleasant moments when growing vegetables.

Predecessor table

When cultivating any crops, crop rotation should be observed. The information presented in the table will help you plan the site correctly.

Repeatedly growing a plant in one place is also undesirable.

Layout

When cultivating vegetable crops, information is needed about their mutual influence. To avoid an unfavorable neighborhood, you need to know exactly about the characteristics of vegetable crops. Acceptable growing conditions for plants that will be combined must be similar. This will help to accurately plan the entire area for the garden and achieve successful cultivation of various plants in compacted beds. In addition, certain crops not only have a beneficial effect, but also repel pests. The compatibility of plants in the garden is quite important.

A detailed list of representatives of different families that coexist well in the garden helps to accurately determine their placement. Equally important is information about plants with which joint cultivation is undesirable. They will suppress vegetable crops growing nearby.

Plant compatibility table

For the normal development of vegetables and obtaining a high-quality harvest, they need to create favorable conditions. Proper agricultural technology combined with a successful combination of plants will help solve many problems. The data given in the table will be useful when placing plants on the site.

Successful combinations

When planning sowings, you should take into account the time of development of the usable area, the height and compatibility of plants in the garden. Carrots and onions go well together. They are placed in rows. Alternate three rows of carrots with four rows of onions. These plants have a beneficial effect on each other and at the same time protect against pests. A trio of plants will be successful. These are late white cabbage, head lettuce and spinach, which are used to compact garden beds. You can name other examples of combinations of vegetables that have good compatibility between plants in the garden. The table will help everyone find the best match. For example, early cabbage and celery, which have different planting dates. At the beginning of spring, seedlings of the first vegetable crop are planted. The distance when planting early cabbage is maintained at least fifty centimeters. Three weeks later, celery is added. Plants with different ripening periods go very well. in the garden in this case is based on the fact that early ripening crops are placed along the edge of the beds of plants whose ripening period is longer. For example, a combination of planting tomatoes with several rows of dill for greens and onions for feathers, as well as spinach, will not interfere with the longer development of tomato bushes. The classic combination is corn and string beans. In this example, one plant serves as a trellis for another.

Lighthouse cultures

Many plants have a long period of seed germination. To designate rows earlier, fast-germinating and early-ripening plants are used. They allow soil cultivation and agrotechnical activities to begin earlier. An example is the joint sowing of radishes and carrots. By the time it takes for the root crop to ripen, the early and early-ripening vegetable has time to ripen and free up space. In addition to radishes, lettuce, spinach and dill are used. They are sown along the edge of a bed of cucumbers, tomatoes and peppers.

Amulets of vegetable plantings

Aromatic herbs are not forgotten either. These plants are fragrant, creating an amazing atmosphere around. Vegetables located nearby become more stable under the influence of volatile substances. They are able to repel pests. Medicinal plants such as valerian and yarrow, planted along the edges of the beds, will be an excellent preventive measure that increases resistance to diseases. Lettuce and spinach are plants that can enhance the activity of neighbors. They will be good companions and have excellent plant compatibility in the garden. The table of successful crops confirms this statement. Lettuce and spinach are often recommended for joint cultivation with other vegetable crops.

Unfavorable neighborhood

Most plants get along well in the limited space of beds. When placing them, the compatibility of plants in the garden is taken into account. A table of successful combinations of vegetable crops will help to distribute them correctly. However, we should not forget about plants that will have a depressing effect on others. These include fennel and wormwood.

For these vegetable crops, it is necessary to allocate a separate corner of the garden, which will provide privacy.

One of the secrets of successful gardening is allelopathy - the compatibility of vegetable crops. In other words, this is knowledge about how plants are "friends with each other." This approach will help not only achieve high yields and healthy crops, but also preserve the natural fertility of the soil, which is an essential condition for any type of farming.

When a summer resident draws up a planting plan for his plot, he needs to know what grew on it in previous seasons. This is very important, since when growing monocultures, one-sided depletion of the soil occurs, which means that not all plants will be able to survive and produce a good harvest.

Crops differ in the time of fruit ripening. This allows you to rationally distribute plantings and make sure that the land does not stand idle. The size of the plants, their need for light and soil moisture, resistance to pests, and requirements for fertility must be taken into account. In the latter case, there are strong consumers of nutrients, and there are weaker ones, which is one of the factors influencing the compatibility of vegetables in the garden.

All of the above criteria lay the foundation for natural farming called “mixed plantings”.

Planting vegetable crops - after which predecessors can you expect a good harvest?

What are mixed plantings?

This is a method of organic farming, based on many years of experience of famous gardeners who carefully observe natural processes in the plant world and implement them in their plots. It was this approach - observation and application - that made it possible to accurately determine the compatibility of plants in the garden.

The essence of this method is to plant different vegetable crops on one plot of land in such a way that they have a beneficial effect on each other, creating a good microclimate that provides a rich harvest and natural protection from pests.

Advantages of the method

People who have been planting vegetable crops using a mixed principle for several years now note the following positive aspects of this approach:

• The yield has increased significantly - 15-20 kilograms per 1 m 2;
• there is no need to thoroughly weed out;
• the time spent on gardening work has been reduced;
• vegetables in the garden practically stopped getting sick, their appearance became healthier;
• it became possible to obtain fresh vegetables before the first frost;
• the taste and aroma qualities of products have improved;
• mixed plantings attract more pollinating bees;
• the plants' need for watering has been reduced;
• the available land area began to be used more rationally;
• soil depletion has stopped with further prospects for its improvement;
• the need for crop rotation disappeared.

When creating the right mixed plantings in the garden, a separate “kingdom” is formed, which has its own laws that do not require unnecessary human intervention. Vegetables and other plants, above- and below-ground insects and other fauna coexist in harmony, maintaining a natural balance, just as in the wild. Of course, a person is not completely removed from work, but his physical labor in the garden is reduced to a minimum.

Basic rules for mixed plantings

A few simple rules will help you get a good harvest without the use of chemical fertilizers:

• The optimal width of the bed is considered to be 1 meter.
• The main crop is planted in the center of the bed, and the accompanying crop is planted on the sides.
• Slowly ripening species are chosen as the main ones, which grow strongly by the time of fruiting, for example, tomatoes.
• Accompanying plants are low-growing plants with fibrous root systems that retain moisture in the ground and ripen quickly, for example, greens. By the time the main crop begins to mature, the friendly ones around it will already be gathered and make room.

For the correct combinations of plants in the garden, you can use the vegetable compatibility table when planting.

Compatibility of vegetable crops with each other

The plant compatibility table clearly shows what can be planted with what and how plants influence each other.

Planting strawberries

To get a good harvest of this tasty and tender crop, you need to choose the right proximity of vegetables in the beds with it. The best neighbors for strawberries are parsley, which repels slugs, as well as leeks, which protect against gray rot.

Calendula and marigolds help control nematodes. In autumn, these flowers can be crushed and mulched between the rows. Irises protect strawberry bushes from frost. Sage improves taste.

Neighborhood with carrots increases the yield of both crops. Onions and garlic repel harmful insects. Spinach, lettuce, beans, beets, radishes and radishes have a positive effect on the growth of strawberries.

Strawberries have no bad neighbors in the garden among vegetables, although the opinion regarding the proximity of different types of cabbage to them remains ambiguous. It is believed that the culture does not like close proximity to birch trees, but it does well near spruce and pine trees, whose needles can be used as mulch.

Nutrient requirements of vegetable crops

Different crops consume different amounts of nutrients, mainly nitrogen, which greatly affects the compatibility of plants in the garden. According to this principle they can be classified:

• Strong consumers: cabbage - white, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, broccoli, red, Peking; pumpkin, cucumbers, zucchini, celery.
• Average consumers: radishes, potatoes, eggplants, beets, carrots, spinach, chicory, lettuce, onions, fennel.
• Weak consumers: radishes, beans, peas, spices, herbs.