Tricks for installing a toilet that will make installation much easier. Installing a toilet with your own hands: simple step-by-step instructions Installing a Belichi toilet

Tricks for installing a toilet that will make installation much easier. Installing a toilet with your own hands: simple step-by-step instructions Installing a Belichi toilet

Completion involves: 1. Selecting and purchasing a new toilet; 2. Dismantling the old toilet; 3. Preparing the surface for fastening; 4. Installation of a toilet; 5. Complete set and installation of the tank; 6. Crimping
All of the above points are interconnected, they can be said to be inseparable.

I will analyze each separately in detail. You must read it carefully and put it into practice, and what the result turns out to be is entirely up to you and your conscientious attitude towards completing the task.
So, first things first.

Choosing and purchasing a toilet

Toilets are divided:

By purpose

- children's (small size, decorated) different colors, application is common in preschool institutions)
- for people with disabilities(added handrails, armrests, have a wide bowl, adjustable in height)
- universal (used by people regardless of gender and age).

By size

- height
- width
- length

By installation

- hanging
- floor
In turn, they are divided into wall and corner.

By release

- oblique (at an angle)
— horizontal (into the wall)
— vertical (to the floor)

By design

- retro
- modern
- hi-tech

According to case material

- San faience
- san porcelain
- metal
- a natural stone

To install the tank

- mounted
- on the toilet
- hidden
The tanks, in turn, differ in flush modes: double, normal, economical.
As well as water supply: from below, from the side, from behind.

And finally by color

Here, as they say, “it depends on the taste and color...” The color scheme presented on the market today exceeds all expectations; if you wish, you can even find burgundy grey.

I will not dwell on all the parameters; we will consider the most important in my opinion for this article, namely: the direction of the toilet bowl release, and the dual tank flush mode.

Toilet discharge direction

Look at how your sewer pipe intended for the toilet is located; it can be in the floor, or from the wall, or come out at an angle. It is logical to purchase a model whose release is most coaxial with the bell, thereby avoiding refraction and rationally saving free area bathroom.
In the photo, visually what I’m talking about:
Agree that in in this case A toilet with an oblique outlet is more suitable; it would be closer to the wall by two hundred to three hundred millimeters, at least. I have encountered such situations more than once, and not even twice; during my career I installed a “car and a small cart” toilets. You come to order, and there the toilet has already been purchased, the socket of the sewer tee is often cast iron, so it is completely impossible to turn it into the position you need. The customer shrugs, saying, “I didn’t even think about it.” What to do in this case? He really shouldn’t run to change things. Something has to be sacrificed, as in the photo - usable space.
But if you are reading the article, you should not make such a mistake.

Attention

In the store, when purchasing, unpack the box and carefully inspect the toilet and tank for cracks and chips.
Inspect carefully the internal cavities of both the tank and the toilet.
Inspect the toilet outlet, both outside and inside.
Check with the seller whether the kit includes: a seat, mounting to the floor (wall). If the configuration does not include a seat, select according to the shape.
If you have a delivery, then inspect the product with the courier.

If a defect is visually detected, refuse the purchase; believe me, it will be very disappointing to notice puddles gathering on the floor after installing the device. Consider all the work to be a waste.
Buy here flexible liner(hose) for connecting to a water pipe. If you do not have a tap that separately shuts off the water to the tank, then I strongly recommend purchasing and installing one.

Toilet cistern

Basically, cisterns come complete with a toilet, I think you can decide for yourself which option is most suitable for you - mounted, mounted on the toilet, or hidden.
I will only focus on the possibility of some of them functioning in two modes. This means that they have a bifurcated button, by pressing a certain one you can regulate the drainage of water. I don’t see any point in explaining when which displacement is appropriate.
Some manufacturers provide the ability to independently set the displacement, varies
- 6 and 3 liters
- 9 and 4.5 liters
- 4.5 and 3 liters
- 4 and 2 liters
The efficiency of water consumption is obvious.

Removing an old toilet

The toilet is an irreplaceable device, it’s a burden to do without it for a long time, so this work It is advisable to start in the morning, in order to have time if you need to purchase any part; stores are open until a maximum of nineteen hours.

First thing— make sure the water supply is turned off, unscrew the liner, drain all the water from the tank and remove it. On toilets, you don’t have to remove the compact, but we’ll send it to the trash heap as is. We inspect the integrity of the socket of the sewer tee, into which the outlet neck of the toilet is usually embedded with concrete, make sure that there are no cracks; if they are present, we dismantle them with caution.

We unscrew the attachment of the toilet to the floor, or cut it off with a grinder (which is more common) and try to loosen it. It’s not possible to loosen it, we break the neck with the sharp end of a hammer in close proximity to the socket, the blows are not strong, but there’s no point in being liberal here.
We split it, removed the pot, and took out the whole thing. To avoid injury from fragments of earthenware, sweep the bathroom.

Second step— caulking of the cast-iron socket, that is, we remove from it the remains of the neck and everything with which it was sealed there. I use a hammer and a steel-handled screwdriver for this. Wearing safety glasses, we get rid of foreign materials using simple manipulations. Remember, the more thoroughly you clean inner surface socket, the less likely there is a leak in this place during operation of the newly installed toilet.
We strive for this result:

But what if such a “surprise” awaits us - an additional rise? And you need to remove it, well, it’s a “bleed from the nose,” but we are pursuing the goal of installing the toilet professionally, and the size of the bathroom directly depends on this.

I’ll say right away, get ready to sweat and be nervous. But... the eyes are afraid, but the hands do.

Attention

Under no circumstances should we grab a hammer, everything is explained simply - cast iron is very fragile, and from blows it can easily burst in any other place, but not where we would like it to. Violating this rule can lead to costly and time-consuming problems.

To help, we take a hammer drill with a drill with a diameter of 5-6 millimeters, and in the “peck-drill” mode we drill as much as possible more holes along the entire circumference, directing it (the drill) into the groove between the socket of the tee and the pipe - the riser.

Sometimes, the location of this hemorrhoid does not allow for free drilling, in this case we cut it off with a grinder and position it in close proximity to the socket, but remember: by cutting it off you lose the opportunity to loosen it, so to speak, therefore we resort to this as a last resort, but for now we drill it and burn it out.

Burning is appropriate if the cavity was caulked or filled with sulfur; if it is filled with concrete or lead, the method does not work.

Before starting burning, we ensure that the room is sufficiently ventilated and that there are no flammable products or materials nearby. The video will clearly show how this is done:

If it doesn’t help, then there is only one option left to get rid of this damn stick: cut it out. For this we use a grinder (angle grinder) or electric welding.

The technology is as follows: we cut off the stand at the bell itself, visually find the thin place of the “remainder” and aim specifically at it. We place a small circle (already ground off during other work) on the grinder and make cuts from the inside. You make two cuts close to each other in the thinnest place, trying to cut along the entire length of the “remnant”, that is, there, deep into it. You can cut out a fragment of the scarf type, knock it out with a screwdriver and a hammer, and then, by tapping with a hammer, tear off the remaining piece from its “home” place. If you continue to have difficulties with removal, you can also make a cut from the inside in a place that is most convenient. That's all, the caulking is over.

Guys, if anyone has encountered such difficulties, but does not have the skills to use an angle grinder, then here is a link to a photo gallery, found on the Internet, everything step by step:
Disassembling cast iron fan pipes turned out to be a problem
And what awaits us next step.

Preparing the surface for fastening

The toilet was installed on a hard surface - great, but we will look at the most common option for attaching old toilets - on taffeta.
Taffeta is a board fifty millimeters thick embedded in the floor; in the old days, it was on it that the toilet was attached with screws or nails. Our task is to remove it (provided that it is rotten, which is often), everything is used: a hammer, a screwdriver, a hammer drill, in general, you will sort out this issue. Remove the taffeta and clean the released cavity. Place the involved instrument aside.

We mix a solution from a mixture of sand and cement, the proportions depend on the brand of cement and the recommended ratio, for example M-400 - here is one part cement to four parts sand, my advice to you is to dilute one part cement to three parts sand, the goal is faster hardening .
We fill the cavity with the solution, which is level with the floor surface, but we don’t have time to wait for it to set, it takes up to three days, and the potty is needed almost hourly.
Each apartment has a stove, be it electric or gas, take the baking sheet out of the oven and place it on top of the cemented area.

Have a broom handy? We sweep away the trash. Remember - a mess in the workplace leads to injuries.
Let's move on to the next stage.

Toilet installation

Our goal is to install the device as close to the sewer as possible, and with minimal use intermediate parts, especially those forming bends (turns). This doesn’t always work out, just below I’ll post pictures of fittings that you can “play with.” For now, let's look at the connection directly.
We will connect it with the pipe shown in the picture. We smear the cuff of the pipe with technical petroleum jelly or just water, put it on the outlet neck, put a mark on the outlet to what depth the pipe has sat and remove it.
We place the toilet as close as possible to the socket of the tee, sit down on the side and, using our imagination, draw the trajectory of the coaxiality of the toilet outlet and the inlet sewer. By moving the device further or moving it closer, we achieve the best compatibility - this is especially true when the bell is at an angle. Have you achieved it? Throw the tank over and make sure it fits without resting against the wall.
We take a tape measure and place the beginning deep into the socket of the sewer tee, and on the mark that was placed from the fitting of the pipe on the neck there will be the size we need. We set aside this size on the pipe and cut off the excess with a grinder, remove the chamfer at the place of the cut. All, connecting piece We're ready.

Now we need a transition cuff marked 110*123, coat it on the outside, and coat the cleaned sewer socket along the inner perimeter with plumbing sealant, tapping with a hammer and hammer the cuff inside the socket.
There’s also this point: before applying the smear, place the cuff in place and make sure that it will fit; it may be necessary to cut out a small fragment from it, full size doesn't fit. If this is the case, then the cuff cut will need to be placed at the highest point of the socket.
Next: coat the cuff driven into the tee from the inside with sealant, press the pipe until it stops. We coat the neck of the toilet bowl and insert it into the pipe. All the pot is in place.

He promised a picture of the parts used for misalignment, this is what they look like:

If it’s impossible to do without this, then head to a specialized store that sells plumbing fixtures. There are also corrugated toilet pipes on sale, there are reinforced and non-reinforced, if any one suits you, then please use it, but this is not perfect option connections.

At the beginning of the article I recommended purchasing a faucet, I hope you initially screwed it onto the outlet of the water pipe for the tank, if not, now is the time, we will need a bucket of water. We throw it into the toilet and visually verify the tightness of the joints; if there is a “jamb”, then we eliminate it by at this stage. We achieve tightness.

Let's move on to the next step.

Complete set and installation of the tank

The new toilet comes with instructions, read and assemble the tank in accordance with it, if all the fittings on it are already screwed on, just make sure it is tight and tighten if necessary. Don’t be too zealous; after all, you’re dealing with plastic.

I won’t dwell on the device, the topic of a separate article, and the components various manufacturers slightly different from each other. The principle of operation is the same: water inlet, with a float that stops its supply when the set displacement is reached, and a drainage device (some have dual-mode and are adjustable, as mentioned earlier). In general, assemble according to the instructions. I’ll just tell you one thing: at the junction of the tank with the toilet there is a gasket, so it’s not always appropriate to coat it with sealant, but only when you can’t do without it, whether it’s necessary or not, pressure testing will reveal. Initially we don’t smear it. We put the tank on and tighten it to the toilet with the mounting bolts provided for this purpose, tighten it alternately, with uniform force.

Here is a video in which the guy explains in detail how to set up the various tank fittings:

Crimping

Using an adjustable wrench, we connect the cold water supply to the tank with a flexible line, tightening the hose fitting on the tank inlet device and hold it with your hand from the inside. It is important to prevent the fittings from touching both each other and the walls of the tank.

Open the tap and monitor the filling. The video explains how the outlet overflow and float are adjusted, using simple movements above - below, set the filling and draining modes that are convenient for you. We make sure that the float shuts off the water until it reaches the overflow limit.

By pressing the release button, we drain the entire displacement to the maximum, carefully inspect the connections:
— flexible connection with an inlet device
- inlet valve with reservoir body
- cistern with toilet through gasket
- bolts securing the tank to the toilet using conical gaskets
— outlet (neck) of the toilet with a pipe (corrugation, eccentric)
- pipe (corrugations, eccentric) with cuff
- cuffs with sewer tee socket
- toilet and baking tray

If you conscientiously follow the steps described above, the plumbing fixture simply must work flawlessly. If the presence of leaks and puddles has been visually determined, it is natural to eliminate them.

Three examples of, so to speak, unforeseen, but possible leaks:

1. I, and many plumbing gurus, advise not to initially coat the rubber gasket located between the tank and the toilet with sealant. This is inappropriate not at all out of fear of getting everything dirty or “hand-to-hand” - nonsense. The explanation is simple: when coated, it slides, and when you try to tighten the fastening bolts, it moves out of its proper place.
So, if a leak is detected from this place, you should remove the tank, wipe dry the surface where the gasket adheres to the toilet and the gasket itself. Coat one side of the gasket with silicone sealant with a layer of 2 - 3 mm and carefully, aligning the holes, put it in place, lightly press down along the entire perimeter. Wait for the time required for the sealant to “set” - this is about half an hour - you can drink tea, then apply the same layer over the gasket and carefully place the tank in its place and tighten it. Ninety-five percent of achieving a positive result.

2. A thin stream of water constantly flowing into the toilet:
Having looked inside the tank, we make sure that the edge of the water does not reach the upper boundary of the overflow tube; if this is normal, then there may be several reasons for the leak:
— the cone gasket located under the pressure nut of the overflow tube is missing or jammed;
— the seat is not tightly attached to the tank body, or the surfaces of the seat gasket contact areas are rough; coating the gasket with sealant will get rid of the problem;
- crack in the seat body;
— uneven fit of the “pear” to the plane of the saddle;

3. Puddle on a baking sheet
In all likelihood, in this case, there is a crack (microcrack) in the toilet body.

Well, let’s not talk about the sad things, they pressured us, everything is fine with us. The only task left is to secure our toilet to the floor.

You will have to do this after two to three days - the time required for the solution to harden. Before this, of course, we use the device with caution, because it is not stable.
Turn off the water, lower the tank, slightly lift the toilet, and pull out the baking sheet. We position the toilet, if it has been accidentally moved, mark the places for drilling with a pencil or marker. We move the toilet to the side, drill holes with a hammer drill, drive in plastic dowels, put them in place and screw them on. We attract without using much effort.

In case of an uneven fit to the floor, I recommend a gasket, which is an excellent piece of linoleum.
To avoid unsanitary conditions - accumulation of small particles of debris, coat the area where the toilet bowl meets the floor along the entire perimeter with silicone sealant.
That's all, our irreplaceable plumbing fixture is installed and ready for many years of use.

Tools used during installation:

So, theoretically, we have completed the task. Having considered the whole process step by step, we have an idea of ​​the tool we need. Prepare in advance:
- hammer and screwdriver with iron handle
adjustable wrench(Swedish)
— open-end wrenches 10*12, 13*14
- roulette
— hammer drill with 5-6 mm drill
— for those who do not have the skills to use, we replace the grinder with a metal blade, if necessary, a drill with drills with a diameter of 5-6 mm.
- plumbing sealant, linen or fum tape

The following articles may be useful for successfully completing the work described:


Well, that’s all, dear reader, do you still want to install the toilet yourself? I told you how installation is done professionally. Once again, weigh your options, think about whether it’s worth getting involved with this, maybe it’s easier to pay a plumber a third of the cost of the pot, and calmly drink beer in front of the TV??
And then I see tons of articles on the Internet, like, install it yourself, there are no difficulties, everything is elementary and simple... Yes, it’s simple, but all this needs to be done, and not done anyhow.
I'll tell you this: everyone should mind their own business and earn what they can, and not count other people's money.

If you have any questions or have something to add to the article, you are welcome to add them to the comments section.
I recommend that guests subscribe to receive new blog articles, the form will open when you scroll to the bottom of the page, I assure you there will be more useful and interesting information.
And that’s all for me today, good luck with the installation, best regards

In cases where there is a desire to save on the services of specialists or simply learn a new construction skill, information on how to properly install a toilet will be useful.

What you need for installation

Before installing a toilet with your own hands, you need to make sure you have a number of tools:

  • hammer drill or hammer drill;
  • a drill with a diameter of 8-10 mm (depending on the diameter of the toilet dowel);
  • tile drill (if installation is carried out on a tile or ceramic slab);
  • adjustable wrench;
  • set of wrenches;
  • hammer;
  • sealant (either in a special tube or together with a sealant gun);
  • screwdrivers (flat or Phillips, depending on the design of the toilet);
  • adapter sleeve made of rubber 123x100 (if you need to connect to a cast iron socket);
  • a set of fasteners for installing a toilet (if it is not included in the kit);
  • rags and a container to drain the remaining water from the old toilet.

Before installing the toilet, you need to do some preparatory work. For example, you need to decide how exactly to connect the new toilet to the sewer pipe. The following options are possible:

  • Pleated cuff. This method is the most economical, but in this case the toilet cannot be attached close to the socket. This matters if the bathroom is small.
  • Straight cuff. Firmly and hermetically connects the bowl of the structure with the socket of the sewer system.
  • Eccentric cuff. Convenient if the connection centers of the system and the socket are shifted.

Next, it is advisable to replace the old flexible water line. The choice of liner is based on the distance from the connections on the pipe with cold water before connecting the toilet filler mechanism. 15-20 cm should be added to this length.

If necessary, you need to purchase adapters in advance for threads at the connection points made of flax or FUM tape.

In the case where it is preserved under the old toilet wooden stand, it must be removed. A nail puller or hammer drill will help with this. You can fill the resulting void cement composition, preferably quick hardening, and a spatula.

Video - Self-installation of a toilet

DIY toilet installation

  • First you need to turn off the water. Disconnect the flexible hose and flush the toilet.
  • Then you need to unfasten the drain tank. You can carefully, or you can use a hammer (if old toilet is no longer needed).
  • You can quickly remove the toilet using a hammer and a hammer drill.

Carefully, so that fragments do not fall into the sewer system, use tools at the place where the toilet is attached to the floor and where the device meets the sewer. Then you need to remove the old bowl by pouring out the remaining water.

Removing the wood plank and leveling the floor

  • After the old toilet is removed, you need to thoroughly clean the sewer pipe from dirt and rust. Install rubber into the socket transition cuff 123x100, pre-coated with sanitary sealant.
  • Then plug the hole with a rag so that odors do not interfere with further work.
  • Next, you need to remove the wooden board and fill the resulting void with repair compound.
  • Level with the floor using a spatula.

Marking and installation of dowels

  • Place the bowl of the new toilet in the planned location. Make markings through the holes in the bowl on the floor so you can see where to drill. The holes in the toilet bowl are located at an angle, in which case you also need to drill at an angle.
  • Once the markings have been made, the toilet can be removed. Next, you need to drill holes in the previously marked locations and insert dowels.

Securing the toilet cistern

  • In accordance with the instructions supplied with the toilet, you need to install the cistern fittings. There are some peculiarities in this procedure.
  • The drain and fill valve nuts must be tightened by hand, while at the same time holding the valve itself, thereby protecting it from turning and possibly damaging the gasket.
  • The valves must be installed so that during operation the moving elements do not touch each other or the walls of the tank.
  • If you are unsure about the quality of the tank walls and gaskets, sanitary sealant should be used.

Drain mechanism Available in a collapsible type to facilitate the installation process.

Installing a toilet bowl

  • The connecting cuff is attached with the petal part to the transition cuff 123x100, inserted into the socket pre-treated with sealant. The outlet of the toilet bowl is inserted into the transition collar until it stops.
  • You should turn the cuff so that the toilet bowl is in a level position and all the mounting holes are aligned.
  • The bowl is secured to the floor surface with screws and plastic washers. In cases where the floor surface is uneven, you need to use shims made from pieces of plastic to level the toilet before finally tightening it.

Connection between bowl and drain tank

Before you install cistern on the bowl of the structure, you need to put a gasket between them. For reliability and to avoid displacement of the gasket, it is better to glue it to the bowl with sealant in advance.
After securing the tank to the bowl, tighten the screws evenly. After this, install the tank lid and the drain button. Then secure the flexible liner.

Checking the functioning of the system

At the end of all work, you need to carry out a check - fill the tank with water and do a test drain. The amount of water drained can be adjusted; how to do this is written in the instructions.
Inspect all elements for any leaks. If they occur, check the tension strength and, if necessary, disassemble the assembly, re-treat it with sealant, then tighten it properly.
If the reason is a faulty part, purchase new part and replace.

Final stage

Install the toilet seat and fill the gaps between the toilet and the floor surface with sealant.

Doing such work with your own hands is not particularly difficult if you adhere to the above recommendations and rules. Good luck!

If this is your first time thinking about installing a toilet, this article is for you. Moreover, it’s better if you have time to read it before you go to the store for a new “faience friend” or before you start finishing in the toilet room.

The fact is that modern toilets so different that they have very different types of fastening, flushing, sewerage, etc. So, ideally, you should start planning which toilet you will install with your own hands already at the toilet design stage.

What to do if there is an old “throne” in the toilet - how to remove it without a global flood? We will also talk about this in the article. Features of the installation process, step by step guide and a few tips from the experts will help you save money and install the toilet yourself without any problems.

It is impossible to plan a comfortable toilet without taking into account the features of the toilet that will be installed there.

To understand what exactly needs to be done, you need to know:

  • Is it necessary to dismantle a toilet that has served its purpose and carry out major repairs in the toilet (including cladding, repair and installation of sewer lines and floor screed);
  • what are the dimensions of the new plumbing fixtures - will it not clutter up the space and will it allow your door to open quietly;
  • what type of mounting does your future toilet have?
  • what is the method of flushing the toilet;
  • at what height do you want to install the plumbing?

If you know the answers to all these questions, all that remains is to dismantle the old one (if necessary) and install a new toilet.

Let us remind you that floor plumbing is divided into several types. It differs in shape and structure.

Classification according to bowl shape:

  • funnel-shaped;
  • disc-shaped;
  • visor.

Toilet bowls have an outlet flush:

  • horizontal oblique;
  • vertically designed.

The flush cistern can be combined with the toilet bowl or independent (wall-mounted).

Toilet bowls are attached to the floor: for 2 and 4 attachment points, for corners.

Down with the old toilet!

Surely your toilet that needs to be dismantled is not wall-mounted, which means it is attached to the floor. You can remove it from the toilet in just 7 steps.

  1. Turn off the water and drain it from the tank in the toilet.

  2. Unscrew the thin hose that goes to the tank.

  3. Unscrew the tank fastenings. If they are rusty or “sticky”, you can water them, leaving them for 5-7 minutes, special means which will dissolve the lime. Or you can simply rip the bolts off using a screwdriver and an adjustable wrench. Also, in order for the bolts to yield, you can spray the mount with “WD”, kerosene compound, etc., in advance.
  4. Following the cistern bolts, you need to unscrew the toilet mountings. They usually look like a nut screwed onto an anchor. To make the process easier, use the same methods as when working with the tank mounts.

  5. Next you need to unhook the toilet flush from sewer pipe. If the toilet is old, then the drain at the attachment point is probably coated with cement for strength. You need to beat it off with a hammer and screwdriver. First you need to crumble the coating across the seam, and then you can mechanically destroy the cement. The drain should swing for now, but remain in place.

  6. We tilt the toilet several times different sides, thus draining the remaining water in the knee.

  7. Ready. You can unhook the old toilet and proudly carry it to the trash, not forgetting to plug the gaping sewer hole with a plug made of plastic, fabric or wood.

If there are no plans for the old toilet, and you are seeing it off on its last journey, then after rocking it, you can split it with a sledgehammer so that it is not difficult to take it out. You will have to do the same if the fastenings of old plumbing fixtures are cemented.

After dismantling the toilet, assess the condition of the pipes in the room. Cast iron creates many problems; before installing new plumbing, it is recommended to change them to plastic. Also, plastic pipes greatly facilitate the process of installing a toilet and routing sewer drains (by the way, about installation plastic pipes with your own hands you can also read on our website).

Self-installation of plumbing “step by step”

Toilet for normal operation You need a flat, tiled or specially prepared surface of the walls and floor.

  1. First, use a corrugation to connect the toilet flush to the outlet sewer riser pipe. You can also use a rigid pipe. The best option– if the toilet flush enters the riser without extension corrugations, etc. To seal the drain, we use a ring with a rubber border. It is important to take into account that rubber does not tolerate cement and similar coatings on its surface. But the sealant is quite suitable.

    Toilet installation - cuff

  2. To introduce water, you need a flexible, fairly long hose that connects the tap that supplies liquid from the water supply to the tank of your plumbing. Pay attention to both inlet diameters to select a hose with two suitable fasteners. Obviously, there is no way to screw a 3/4” thread onto a pipe with a diameter of 1/8”.

    Take the cuff and apply silicone sealant and install it in the pipe

  3. If the drain is securely connected, you can begin securing the plumbing.

We fix it to the floor: 3 types of fasteners


You can fix a toilet with a wall cistern without screws, just using resin. However, with this method of fastening, you must first clean the surface of the tile so that the glue sticks better. When using epoxy, it is important to allow the newly installed plumbing fixtures to dry thoroughly and adhere to the floor surface.

Mounting the toilet to the wall

Wall-hung toilets are being used more and more often. Their installation is not much more complicated than usual (by the way, you can read about installing a toilet bowl with your own hands on our website). Wall-mounted toilet, as its name implies, will not have contact with the floor surface. It is suspended using a metal frame that is attached to the load-bearing wall. In this case, the toilet tank and pipes are located behind a false plasterboard wall. If the wall-hung plumbing fixture has an open tank, then you can fix it on the wall itself, but then the sewer pipe must be inside the wall. The structure will be held in place by the same anchors embedded in the wall or supporting frame.

After fixing the toilet bowl to the wall or floor, all that remains is to assemble the toilet. A tank is placed on the base, already securely fastened, or a pipe from a tank hung on the wall is connected to it.

All that remains is to check if the toilet works and if there are any leaks. Turn on the cold water, wait until the tank is filled, adjusting the filling level. Set up according to instructions locking mechanism. We wash it off and see if there is any leakage from the drain.

The last step is to screw the toilet seat. But here you can probably handle it yourself.

  1. Before purchasing plumbing fixtures, first decide on the type of drain that suits you. If you do not plan to change the sewer riser supply, you need to choose the same type as in the used toilet. Remember: no adapters will help to properly connect a toilet with an unsuitable type of outlet.
  2. Do not leave the choice and purchase of a toilet until the final stage of the renovation: it is better to prepare a place in the toilet in advance to facilitate the installation of plumbing.
  3. Invest in nickel-plated bolts and anchors to secure the toilet to the floor or wall. They do not rust, which means that unsightly drips and sticking of bolts are excluded.

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When a property owner decides to change the plumbing, he will benefit from knowing how to properly install a toilet in a private house or apartment. The work of dismantling and installing a new plumbing fixture requires special responsibility, since the slightest omission can lead to big trouble– leaks and, as a result, flooding of your own home and your neighbors’ apartments.

What you need to know when buying a toilet

The main criteria that you should pay attention to when choosing a plumbing fixture are not only its model, trademark and color, but also sizes (more details: “What are the sizes of the toilet - standard dimensions, options”). Before purchasing a toilet, it is necessary to measure the distance from sewer drain to the door to the toilet room, and the result must be divided by 2. The result will be
maximum size device that can be installed in this room.

The color and shape of the toilet are chosen in accordance with the interior design of the toilet room; it should correspond to the design as much as possible. When purchasing plumbing equipment, be sure to check its integrity and completeness. The existing mechanisms in it should work easily, without making creaking sounds.

Materials and tools for installing a toilet

When is it produced? correct installation do-it-yourself toilet, use following materials and tools:
  • hammer drill or impact drill;
  • marker or pencil;
  • adjustable wrench;
  • drills (drills) for metal 8 or 10 millimeters, depending on the diameter of the dowels with which the device will be attached to the floor;
  • hammer;
  • drills according to tiles, if it is trimmed with it flooring;
  • spanners;
  • silicate sealant;
  • Phillips screwdrivers;
  • masking tape;
  • rubber cuff measuring 123x100 millimeters (required when attaching the toilet to a cast iron socket);
  • flexible water supply (when replacing the old one);
  • cuff - depending on the toilet, you can choose straight, flexible or eccentric;
  • kit for fastening a plumbing fixture to the base. Read also: "Installing a toilet with your own hands - detailed instructions for different types of toilets."

Rules for installing a toilet

The fastest and in a simple way To connect the toilet to the sewer pipe is considered to be the use of a corrugated cuff. But at the same time there is no possibility to place the device as close as possible to the pipe socket. You need to know how to put the corrugation on the toilet so that everything works without leaks. This circumstance is important when the toilet room is small.
When the toilet outlet and the sewer socket are located on the same axis, experts recommend using a straight cuff, but if they are on different axes, an eccentric cuff, such as in the photo.

The rules for installing a toilet suggest that when purchasing a flexible water line, take into account its length, which should be equal to the distance from the connection point of the filler mechanism to the cold water pipeline. 15-20 centimeters are added to this value.

It is necessary to pay attention to the thread diameter (1/2 or 3/8 inch) and the type of connection (external/internal). Also, do not forget about buying fum tape. During the process of dismantling the toilet, residual water may pour out of it, so having a floor cloth will not be superfluous.

Technology and stages of toilet installation

The procedure for installing a toilet includes the work of dismantling the old plumbing fixture. Before this, turn off the water and disconnect the flexible line. Then, be sure to drain the water from the device and disconnect the drain tank. If necessary, you can use a hammer if plumbing fixture no longer useful. When doing this, you need to be careful with the fragments, as they can get into the sewer pipe and cause a blockage.

After removing water from the bowl, begin cleaning the bell cast iron sewer. Rust, remnants of old sealant, and dirt are removed from it. Then the transition collar (123x110 millimeters) is lubricated with sealant and placed in a cast iron socket.

In the case when, after dismantling the old device, underneath it is visible wooden plank, it is removed, and the resulting cavity is filled cement mortar, which is leveled with a spatula relative to the floor level and allowed to dry for 20-30 minutes.

To mark holes for attaching plumbing fixtures to the floor with dowels, take the device and an eccentric collar and temporarily place it in the place where it will be located. Next, the toilet installation technology involves marking the holes with a marker or pencil. When the holes are located at an angle, then you need to drill them at an angle, and then insert dowels of the appropriate size into them.

Install the cistern fittings according to the toilet installation rules and instructions (it is necessarily included in the kit). Plastic nuts should be tightened by hand and very carefully so as not to damage the gasket or overtighten the dowel. It is necessary that the moving elements of the valve mechanism do not come into contact with the walls of the tank. The gasket is treated with sealant.

The eccentric cuff is inserted into the transition cuff with the petal part and secured with sealant in the cast iron socket. The outlet of the bowl is inserted to the very base into the eccentric cuff, having previously treated it with sealant. The fastenings of the holes must match, for which the cuff should be turned carefully and evenly. Next, the main thing is not to tighten the fastening of the bowl to the floor, using screws and plastic washers.

The toilet installation diagram will help you install the plumbing correctly. At the next stage, the bowl is placed on the cistern. But before this, the gasket is attached to the bowl with sealant. The tank is carefully secured, preventing the gasket from moving.

Then tighten the screws evenly, install in correct sequence lid, seat, flush mechanism, connection to the toilet. Perform a test flush and adjust the mechanism if necessary.

If everything is done according to the instructions, there can be no leaks.

During overhaul Apartment, we are faced with the need to replace the old toilet with a new one. A professional plumber is often called in to carry out this work. However, installing a toilet with your own hands is not like that difficult task, as it may seem at first. If you are on a budget or want to save money on workers' services, then this article is for you. Below we will tell you how to choose the right toilet, prepare the room, assemble and install a new plumbing fixture.

Choosing a toilet

Choosing new plumbing, some features of the toilet and bathroom should be taken into account. Namely:

  • Room area;
  • Presence or absence external pipe water supply, its diameter and distance from the proposed tank;
  • Location of the sewer pipe;

  • Release angle. Most best option- This is the installation of a toilet with an oblique outlet. You can measure the height of the outlet from the floor with your own hands, and if there is a slight discrepancy, install an adapter - a drain corrugation.

All toilets have their own design and mounting features. First of all, you need to divide them into hanging And floor. Installation wall hung toilet has aesthetic advantages, in addition, it takes up much less space. Whereas a floor-standing toilet is more practical, convenient and reliable.

Classification by flushing method

There are two main types of flushing - direct and circular.

  1. Straight (or horizontal) is more common in simple budget models plumbing equipment. Water from the tank flows down back wall toilet bowl, which does not allow removing dirt under the rim. When water fills and drains, this toilet creates a lot of noise.
  2. The circular flush effectively cleans the entire surface of the bowl due to the ring device. However, toilets with this type of flush are significantly more expensive.

Removing an old toilet

Dismantling and installing a toilet follow each other if you need to replace old plumbing with new ones. This happens during a major renovation of an apartment or bathroom.

All actions must be carried out in a strictly defined order:

  1. Wear safety glasses and work clothes;
  2. Shut down cold water, and then drain the water from the tank;
  3. Disconnect the water pipe and remove the tank;
  4. Unscrew floor standing toilet from the floor;
  5. Use a sledgehammer or hammer to remove the toilet bowl from the drain pipe. Gently tap the cement or adhesive covering the joint. Make sure that the fragments do not fall into the pipe and clog the drain;
  6. While shaking the toilet, remove any remaining sealant and remove it from its place;
  7. Now you can clean the bathroom, making room for a new plumbing fixture. Clean out the sewer and water pipe from rust and plaque, and then treat with a lubricant that prevents metal corrosion.

Assembling a new toilet

Installing a bidet and toilet is not an easy task, but it can be done. Any floor-standing toilet consists of two main parts - a bowl and a cistern. Our primary task is to connect these two parts into a complete plumbing fixture using screws, nuts and various gaskets.

Assembling the toilet begins with the flush cistern. First you need to install the drain mechanism, and then the float. The drain mechanism, which is usually supplied assembled, is not difficult to install. Insert it into the special hole at the bottom and secure it with a plastic nut, onto which you then put a rubber seal.

Important: Don't forget the rubber gaskets! All toilet connections are made using them.

The instructions for assembling the toilet do not end there. Before proceeding with installation, you need to connect the drain tank to the bowl. For this you will need metal studs. Place the tank on the bowl and secure it tightly by putting a special washer on the stud, a rubber gasket and securing it with a nut. Repeat all this with the second hole.

Toilet installation

Instructions for installing a floor-standing toilet

Installing a toilet in a private house with your own hands or in an apartment with the help of a professional - none of this matters. If your choice fell on a floor-standing toilet, then its installation in any case will have to be carried out according to the scheme described below.

  • Before installing plumbing, all finishing work must be completed.
  • Installing a toilet on a cement or tiled floor has its own characteristics. The floor must be perfectly level, otherwise the toilet itself or the tiles may be damaged when tightening the fasteners.
  • Insert the dowels into the holes and screw the plumbing fixture to the floor, but not all the way.

  • If you are installing the toilet at some distance from the wall, then it’s time to start installing corrugated pipe and final fastening of the toilet, checking its strength and immobility. In this case, the pipes are connected using rubber seals and sealant.
  • When the installation of the bowl is completed, it’s time to connect the water to drain barrel and check the functionality of the entire device. To supply water, use a corrugated metal hose, tow and nuts of the required size.

Installing a wall-hung toilet yourself

Installing a toilet with installation is not much different from installing hidden toilet. In both cases, a hanging type bowl is most often used, which obliges us to install not only the cistern, but also a metal frame into the wall with our own hands.

Important: Make sure your wall is strong. It is better if this parameter is assessed by a specialist.

Steel fasteners are mounted using dowels to concrete and reinforced concrete wall(rarely - to brick). The installation height of the toilet is determined independently at this stage.

Following the instructions, secure the toilet bowl and install the flush cistern. Connect them with a flexible hose and connect them to the water supply and sewerage system.

Remember: The tightness of the joints in this case is ensured in exactly the same way as in the case of a floor-standing toilet.

Video

Installing a toilet with your own hands, with a competent approach and a thorough study of the issue, is unlikely to cause you any difficulties. Below you can watch video clips that will make the installation process simple and clear. Happy viewing!