Gloxinia woke up in January - what to do? When to take gloxinia out of a dark place? In what month does Gloxinia wake up?

Gloxinia woke up in January - what to do? When to take gloxinia out of a dark place? In what month does Gloxinia wake up?

Gloxinia, like almost all Gesneria plants, needs a period of rest. At this time, the tuber is gaining strength, and future flowers and leaves are formed in it. Gloxinia rests only under strictly defined conditions. If the temperature regime is disturbed (which happens most often) or the watering regime, gloxinia may wake up ahead of time. But... everything is in order:

By the end of autumn, gloxinia ends flowering. The leaves gradually turn yellow and die, all the useful and nutrients from them pass into the tuber. The above-ground part of the plant is cut off, leaving a stem of no more than a centimeter. At this time, watering is reduced and gloxinia, ideally, should fall asleep. You can store gloxinia tubers in winter in different ways:

  • As soon as flowering stops, gloxinia tubers are thoroughly cleaned of soil, treated with a fungicide, and sprinkled with clean sawdust, peat or vermiculite. Tubers prepared in this way are placed in a cool, dark place until spring. Periodically, the tubers are checked, lightly sprinkled with water and checked to see if they have woken up.
  • As soon as gloxinia leaves begin to die, significantly reduce watering. Dead parts of the plant are cut off. The pot with gloxinia is sent to a cool, dark room. If you live in a private house, you can put pots with tubers in a dry basement. There, the temperature and humidity remain almost unchanged during the winter. From time to time they check the gloxinia and moisten the soil a little, but only a little.

Gloxinia overwinters at a temperature of +8+15˚С in a dark room. If everything is done correctly, then in such conditions the plant tuber will rest well and gain strength.

At the beginning of February, take out the pots with gloxinia, place them in a bright place and begin to water them little by little.

However, sometimes gloxinia wakes up ahead of time. This means it was too warm and light. The sleeping buds woke up and began to grow. What to do if gloxinia wakes up in January?

First-year gloxinias often do not go to sleep during the first winter - this is not scary. In winter, however, you will have to tinker with it a little more: add up to 12 hours of light a day so that it grows a large tuber over the winter. Next winter, like all other gloxinias, she will rest.

But if an adult gloxinia wakes up ahead of time, then one of the following measures must be taken (depending on the condition of the plant):

  • Small sprouts can be easily removed and watering reduced to a minimum. In spring, increase watering and place gloxinia in a bright place.
  • If you miss the moment and the sprouts have already become large enough, cut them off, leaving the first pair of leaves on the stem. The cut top can be rooted and a new gloxinia of the same variety can be obtained. Place the tuber with leaves in a cool, bright room. What to do - let it grow. But in cool conditions, growth will slow down a little, and light will help nutrients accumulate in the tuber. In addition, the tuber's dormant buds will awaken. Your gloxinia will become even more magnificent by summer.

Let me remind you of several important rules for caring for gloxinia: water it only with warm water around the tuber. Water should not get into the middle of the tuber or onto the hairy leaves.

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is a very popular houseplant. But, like any plant, gloxinia has its secrets, problems, in a word, there are problems when growing. To avoid them, you need to try to correct the conditions in which gloxinia are kept at the first sign of their appearance.

1. Gloxinia did not wake up after wintering

Storage location for gloxinia tubers should be cool and dark. If gloxinia tuber mature and healthy, you just have to put it in the light and water it little by little, and shoots begin to grow. Sometimes gloxinia wakes up on its own, and when you take it out into the light, it already has a shoot. However, in practice it does not always work out as it should.

Gloxinia does not wake up on time due to the fact that the rest period was too short, less than 4 months. It is quite possible that the winter was too dry and the tuber dried out. But in any case, gloxinia wakes up on its own. It just takes patience.

To avoid overdrying of the tuber, pots with gloxinia in winter should sometimes be lightly watered or sprinkled with water. Or you can place gloxinia tubers in plastic bags, adding a little soil or damp moss. Close the bags or seal them tightly. The bag will maintain constant moisture, and due to the fact that the bag is transparent, you will have the opportunity to observe the gloxinia tubers in winter. At the first appearance of leaves, you can immediately plant gloxinia in a pot.

If gloxinia did not wake up after wintering, this means that a gloxinia that was too young was sent to winter, it did not have time to form a tuber, or the tuber rotted.

If a gloxinia tuber was purchased in a store and it did not wake up from hibernation after last year’s flowering, it is possible that the tuber was sold of very low quality. Many gardeners complain about this problem. Outwardly, the tubers look quite safe, but in reality it may turn out that they are already old, or infected with some kind of infection or pests. The strength of such tubers is only enough to bloom for one season.

Dig up the tuber, examine it: if it is very wrinkled, then most likely it is lost. Break or cut it: the tuber should be slightly yellowish or pinkish when cut. If this is the case, then dry the sections, sprinkle with crushed coal, you can treat them with regular brilliant green or fucorcin (raspberry liquid, a strong antiseptic, has an antifungal effect, sold in pharmacies). You can treat the tuber with epin or zircon to increase the vitality of the tuber and stimulate it to form shoots.

If the gloxinia tuber is brown on the cut, then most likely it is gone. If the brown color is only on one edge, cut off all the rot, treat the tuber as described above and plant in new soil.

If you want the purchased tubers to be able to survive the winter without problems, then immediately after purchasing gloxinia tubers at home, treat all planting material in a solution of potassium permanganate or phytosporin. This treatment is aimed at preserving gloxinia tubers from rot.

The next step is to treat the gloxinia tubers with Actellik or Fitoverm. These drugs will help get rid of thrips, spider mites and other pests of indoor plants.

If you purchased gloxinia in a pot, change the soil and treat the tuber. The soil that is sold in pots along with plants is very poor.

Perhaps the tuber is already old and has simply died. Gloxinias live for three to four years. If you really value this particular variety of gloxinia, try to root a cutting or leaf in advance.

2. Gloxinia did not have time to form a tuber

Spots on gloxinia leaves may appear from too bright lighting. Shade the gloxinia, otherwise it will get sunburn. Spots on gloxinia leaves can appear from excessive watering, as well as if you water with too cold water. Spotting of gloxinia leaves can be caused by drafts. Small spots on gloxinia leaves may indicate the presence of pests on the plant. Insecticide treatments are needed. In addition, gloxinia can be affected by various viral diseases, for example, tomato ringspot virus.

8. Gloxinia leaves curl

Rolling Gloxinia leaves perhaps if the room is too dry and hot. However, even if the air humidity is too high or the soil is excessively waterlogged, gloxinia leaves also curl, bend, short stalks form, or the formation of deformed flowers is observed. Adjust watering of gloxinias. Treat gloxinia with actellik or fitoverm against spider mites. Curling of gloxinia leaves can be caused by an overdose of potassium fertilizers.

9. Gloxinia leaves turned red

Redness of gloxinia leaves begins with a lack of phosphorus. Phosphorus starvation causes gloxinia to stop blooming altogether. To correct this problem, feed gloxinia with superphosphate or another fertilizer that contains more phosphorus and potassium than nitrogen. For example, diammofoska fertilizer or liquid fertilizers containing a set of additional microelements are suitable for this.

10. Gloxinia’s lower leaves dry out

Gloxinia's lower leaves dry out with insufficient air humidity, or vice versa, overflow. Possible infection. Treat with phytosporin or other fungicide. If this happens in the fall, when gloxinia is preparing to retire, then this is normal.

11. Gloxinia does not bloom

Gloxinia does not bloom due to overfeeding with nitrogen fertilizers. Nitrogen only stimulates green growth, but slows down flowering. Delayed flowering may be affected by insufficient lighting, low ambient temperature, low humidity or insufficient watering. Flowering can also be affected by improper or too short wintering, as a result of which the tuber did not have time to prepare for the next season. In order for gloxinia to bloom well next season, it needs a rest period of four months.

For gloxinia to bloom fully, it simply needs good lighting. Gloxinias love light! From the moment they awaken, immediately place pots with gloxinia tubers in places where there is a lot of light, or organize additional lighting, otherwise the buds may not appear at all, and if they do appear, there may be few of them, or the flowers may not be fully formed and may turn out to be empty flowers , or not fully open.

The size of the pot also plays an important role. To grow gloxinia, it is better to choose a small, low and wide pot rather than a deep one. In a large pot, gloxinia will take a long time to grow the tuber to the detriment of flowering. For an adult gloxinia tuber, the pot should be about 9-12 cm in diameter. And after gloxinia begins to actively grow, it is necessary to fertilize with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

In addition to the pot, gloxinia annually needs replanting and new fertile soil. You can make the soil mixture for gloxinia yourself: humus, coniferous soil, leaf soil, sand, perlite or hydrogel, peat. But before use, it must be calcined for pests and pathogens. Spread the soil on a tray and bake it in the oven for 20-30 minutes.

If it is not possible to make your own soil mixture, then you will have to use a store-bought mixture, but fertilize more often.

12. The petioles of gloxinia leaves rot, the buds rot, turn black and die

Gloxinia leaf petioles rot and buds rot due to excessive waterlogging, too acidic soil pH, as well as excessive amounts of nitrogen-containing fertilizers. Change the soil, adjust the watering. In order not to overdo it with nitrogen, use only complex fertilizers, which contain, in addition to nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Additionally, carry out two or three treatments with phytosporin, Maxim or another fungicide to preserve the gloxinia tuber from rotting.

If Gloxinia's buds turn black and die, then most likely the winter was too cold, the soil was too poor and there was insufficient nutrition, and there was severe overwatering. Typically, problems with flowering are solved by fertilizing with phosphorus fertilizers and additional lighting. Treat with fungicides. If the problem is not corrected, then most likely there is a problem with the tuber: it has begun to disappear.

13. Gloxinia produces a barren flower

At the beginning on gloxinia, as usual, the buds are laid, the sepals open, and inside instead of a bud there is a green pea, barren flower. After some time, the peduncle on which this underdeveloped bud grew turns brown.

Perhaps the gloxinia tuber was stored at too cold a temperature. Cut this peduncle and wait for the next peduncles. After a while, watch how new buds open, perhaps everything will return to normal without additional intervention. Try a few more sprays with Epine to help the plant relieve stress and help the formation of normal buds.

14. Gloxinia’s buds do not fully open

Gloxinia's buds do not fully open, and then they turn brown and become soft. This is quite possible, if gloxinia has too many buds and does not have enough fertilizing, it is simply not able to cope with flowering. In this way, gloxinia itself regulates its flowering. This may be a varietal feature.

It is possible that it bloomed too early or late, when the daylight hours are short and there is simply not enough light for it. Typically, this occurs during the off-season.

Under-opening of buds may result from an attack by spider mites or thrips. Treat with insecticides.

15. Gloxinia’s buds are drying up

Gloxinia's buds are drying up due to too dry air, high air temperature. If the summer is very hot, spray gloxinia. Hang a damp sheet on the window. Try feeding with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

16. All the leaves of gloxinia began to wither

If Gloxinia's leaves began to wither in the fall, this means that gloxinia is preparing for winter. Reduce watering to a minimum. Wait until the gloxinia has completely withered, cut off the upper part of the shoots, leave only a small stump and send the gloxinia tuber for the winter. It can be in the same pot, or it can be in a plastic bag, as described in problem 1.

If gloxinia’s leaves begin to wither during the growing season, then most likely there is a problem with the tuber. It rotted from too much waterlogging. Dig up immediately, cut off the affected leaves, treat the tuber with fungicides and plant in fresh soil.

17. How to make gloxinia bloom again

If your gloxinia has faded and no longer forms peduncles, and you want make gloxinia bloom again, trim it to 2-3 pairs of leaves. In 1.5-2 months, the gloxinia will grow a new stem, and your favorite gloxinia will bloom again. Repeat flowering can be stimulated by fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

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Gloxinia is a tuberous indoor plant with a pronounced dormant period, which raises the question: how to wake up gloxinia for planting?

Gloxinia dormant period: The rest period for gloxinia lasts from 2 to 5 months. It usually falls in October-March or February-March.

How to store gloxinia tubers: Store at a maximum temperature of 15°C. Comfortable air temperature for storage is from 12° C to 15° C.

How to awaken tuberous gloxinia:

  • Evenly awaken all parts of the tuber;
  • Take into account the period of emergence of young shoots;
  • Move to a warm place;
  • Adjust watering;

Before planting or transplanting, the gloxinia tuber, as it has already turned out, needs to be awakened, otherwise there will be no effect from the procedure. The gloxinia tuber wakes up unevenly - some parts may sprout, while others will sleep for several more months. General procedures for awakening Gloxinia tuberosa will be:

  • move the pot with the tuber to a warm place,
  • start watering the soil mixture, but do not over-moisten it;
  • do not pour water on the tuber itself;
  • cover with plastic wrap for 10 days;

As soon as green shoots appear, you can remove the film that created the greenhouse effect. Another method on how to wake up tuberous gloxinia:

  1. take a transparent, rectangular bag that closes at the top;
  2. pour in a third of the soil mixture;
  3. moisten with a little water;
  4. put the tuber in the middle;
  5. close the package;

The same greenhouse effect is created as in the previous version. You can periodically open the bag to ventilate the gloxinia tuber. In this way, it will be possible to completely awaken the tuberous gloxinia and all parts will sprout.

What to do with gloxinia tuberosa after waking up?

After tuberous gloxinia awakens, you need to plant it in a nutrient substrate. General substrate criteria for tuberous gloxinia: loose, with good aeration, light, nutritious.

Substrate composition for tuberous gloxinia:

  • peat;
  • perlite;
  • vermiculite;

Choosing a pot for planting gloxinia at home:

  • focus on the volume of the gloxinia tuber;
  • plant tubers up to 2 cm in volume in a plastic cup;
  • plant a tuber up to 4 cm in a 9 cm pot;
  • large tubers from 4 cm - in a pot from 9 cm;
  • plant the children/daughter tubers in cups and then transplant them into a pot with a diameter of 9 cm;

The gloxinia tuber does not go too deep - 1 cm into the soil mixture is enough. The sides are sprinkled with a little earth. Young, green shoots should be on the surface. In the period after Gloxinia tuberosa is awakened, care needs to be adjusted.

How to care for awakened gloxinia tuberosa:

  • regularly water with small portions of water;
  • drain excess water from the pan;
  • pour water along the edge of the pot, without aiming at the tuber;
  • plant the tubers (daughter ones) in other containers;

Write in the comments about your methods, how to wake up gloxinia tuberous ? Was it possible to do this in one go? What containers do you use for planting tuberous gloxinia? What did we forget to mention in today's article? We are waiting for your answers!


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Gloxinia dormancy period.
In autumn, after flowering, gloxinia begins a period of rest. The plant slows down, does not produce buds, and the leaves begin to turn yellow and dry out. The leaves of such a plant are cut off and stored for winter storage. The optimal time to trim gloxinias and send the tuber for winter storage is October-November.
Sometimes it happens that gloxinias do not want to go into hibernation themselves. If the tuber is more than a year old, then gloxinia still needs to be put to sleep.
Such gloxinia must first be prepared for the dormant period, i.e. reduce watering, move to a darker and cooler place, stop fertilizing. After the plant stops growing, the leaves begin to turn yellow, the stems and leaves are cut off.
Gloxinia tubers are stored in a dark, cool place at a temperature of 12-16 degrees Celsius. My gloxinias are stored in a closed cabinet on an insulated loggia. Some gardeners store tubers in the refrigerator, after first measuring the air temperature on the refrigerator shelf.

Methods for storing tubers:
1. The plant can be left in the same pot in which the gloxinia grew. The soil in which gloxinia is stored should be slightly moist, but not wet. With this method of storage, gloxinia must be watered, slightly moistening the soil, with about a spoonful of water. Watering is carried out 1-2 times a month, making sure that the soil does not dry out and the tuber does not dry out. You can make it simpler: place the pot with the tuber in a plastic bag and tie it tightly. With this method, there is no need to water the gloxinia and the possibility of the soil drying out is eliminated. Once a month it is necessary to check the soil moisture and the condition of the tuber.
2. In a plastic container.
Currently, various plastic containers with lids are sold in disposable tableware pavilions. It is convenient to store small gloxinia tubers in such containers. Pour a small amount of wet soil into the bottom of the container, place the tuber, and sprinkle it with soil. Close the container tightly with a lid to prevent the soil from drying out. Such containers save space during storage and eliminate the possibility of soil drying out.

Awakening of Gloxinia.
The resting period of gloxinia lasts from one to five months. After this, the tubers wake up and produce new shoots. The optimal time to wake up is February, March, April. If the gloxinia tuber has not woken up before May, it can be forcibly awakened. To do this, the gloxinia tuber needs to be placed in a transparent bag, add a little damp soil, and place it in a well-lit place, but not in direct sunlight. Usually after this the tuber produces sprouts within one to two weeks.

After waking up, you need to remove the tuber from the old soil, shake it off, rinse it in water or a weak solution of potassium permanganate, cut off the old thin roots, leaving thick roots.
The awakened gloxinia needs to be transplanted into fresh, nutritious, light soil and lightly watered. When planting, you should not bury the gloxinia tuber; you need to plant the tuber with the deepening upwards, sprinkling the tuber itself with soil no more than 1 cm. At the same time, you need to make sure that the young sprout is not covered.
The first time after awakening, the plant should be watered moderately, without over-moistening the soil, in order to avoid rotting of the tuber.

It often happens that gloxinia produces several shoots. I always leave one, the strongest one. The remaining sprouts can be carefully removed by cutting with a blade. Leaving one sprout on a tuber results in a neater bush and larger flowers.
If you want to get a more magnificent plant, you can leave two sprouts.
Cut “extra” sprouts can be easily rooted by placing them in water until 1-2 cm of roots appear, and then planting them in the soil. In this way, you can get another plant that will bloom in the same year. It should be taken into account that slightly grown sprouts with 4 leaves are suitable for rooting.

Pot size for gloxinia tuber.

The pot for gloxinia must be selected so that the diameter of the pot is 3-4 centimeters larger than the diameter of the tuber.
For example, I plant a very small tuber, about one or two centimeters in size, in a hundred-gram plastic cup, a medium tuber in a pot with a diameter of 7 cm, adult tubers feel good in 9-centimeter pots.
As the small nodules grow and the root system develops, the gloxinia will need to be transplanted into a larger pot.
If you plant a small tuber immediately in a large pot, there is a possibility that the soil will become sour and the tuber will rot.

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How to wake up gloxinia tubers

Gloxinia tubers should have a dormant period and be in a state of sleep for 3 - 4 months a year. This period can be shorter or longer, usually it occurs in the autumn-winter months. But you have a gloxinia tuber that sleeps for a very long time and does not wake up, even though it is alive and well. Are you worried about whether the tuber will wake up or not?
There is no need to worry about gloxinia tubers not spilling if they are healthy. They will wake up on their own in due time. Or do you want to try to wake up sleeping tubers?
Gloxinia tubers wake up well in plastic bags with a zipper (as in the photo below). If you do not have such a bag, you can use a regular transparent cellophane bag.
Place 1 - 2 tablespoons of moist “light” peat-based soil at the bottom of the bag. The soil in the bag can be lightly sprinkled with water.
Before placing the tuber in a bag, it is advisable to wash it in water and inspect it so that there is no rot on it. If the tuber is healthy, dry it and place it in a bag.
Close the ziplock bag tightly or tie it if you are using a bag without a zipper. Place the bag with the tuber in a warm (+24 - +26 degrees Celsius) and very bright place. Good - on a rack under the lamps, if there is one. If you don’t have a rack, then place it on a well-lit window sill. There is no need to ventilate the bag or additionally moisten the soil in it.

Awakening of Gloxinia.

Gloxinias do not wake up at the same time; the bulk of my tubers produce young shoots in February-March, and some can sleep until May. If the tuber has not sprouted in May, it can be awakened. To do this, the pot in which the tuber was stored in the winter must be placed in a warm, illuminated place and the soil watered. It is very important not to overwater the tuber during this period, because... in very wet soil the tuber may rot. You can only lightly moisten the soil around the edge of the pot, avoiding water getting on the tuber. After watering, cover the pot with a transparent bag. If the tuber is healthy, it usually germinates within 10-15 days.

You can wake up gloxinia tubers in another way:

Place the dormant tuber in a transparent bag with a small amount of damp soil. Place the package in a lighted place. After some time, the tuber produces young shoots.

Awakened tubers must be transplanted into fresh nutrient soil. Before transplanting, you need to carefully remove the tuber from the old soil, shake it off the ground, and inspect it. If dark spots or rot are detected, the tuber should be washed with running water, the damaged areas should be removed with a sharp, clean knife and soaked in the Fundazol solution for 20 minutes. After processing, the tuber must be dried and the cut areas sprinkled with crushed coal. Then plant the tuber in fresh soil.

The tuber should not be deepened by more than 1 cm; it can only be lightly sprinkled with earth. There is no need to cover the young sprout with soil; it should remain on the surface.

At the beginning of growth, the plant is watered very moderately, avoiding waterlogging of the soil. Watering is carried out along the edge of the pot, avoiding water getting on the tuber.

Sometimes small daughter nodules can be found on adult tubers during transplantation. They can be carefully separated and planted in small cups. In this way you can get a small baby that will bloom in the first year of life.

Choosing a pot for a gloxinia tuber.

The size of the pot mainly depends on the size of the gloxinia tuber. I plant small tubers about 1-2 cm in size in 100-gram plastic cups; for a medium tuber measuring 3-4 cm, a 7-9 cm pot is suitable, and I plant adult tubers in pots whose diameter is 3-4 cm larger than the size of the tuber. .

You should not immediately plant a small tuber into a large pot, because... There is a possibility of waterlogging and acidification of the soil, which can lead to the death of the nodule.

After the little baby grows up and the root system has completely mastered the earthen lump in the cup, it can be transferred to another pot with a diameter of 7-9 cm.