Where to install heating radiators. Installation of a heating radiator. Nuances, rules and installation techniques. Sequence of work

27.06.2020

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For any type of radiator, there are general rules for placing them in a room. There is also a certain sequence of actions that must be followed. The technology is simple, but there are many nuances.

How to place batteries

First of all, recommendations concern the installation location. Most often, heating devices are installed where heat loss is the most significant. And first of all these are windows. Even with modern energy-saving double-glazed windows, it is in these places that the most heat is lost. What can we say about old wooden frames?

If there is no radiator under the window, then the cold air descends along the wall and spreads along the floor. The situation is changed by installing a battery: warm air, rising upward, prevents cold air from “draining” onto the floor. It must be remembered that in order for such protection to be effective, the radiator must occupy at least 70% of the width of the window. This norm is prescribed in SNiP. Therefore, when choosing radiators, keep in mind that a small radiator under the window will not provide the required level of comfort. In this case, there will be zones on the sides where the cold air will go down, and there will be cold zones on the floor. In this case, the window may often “sweat”, condensation will form on the walls in the place where warm and cold air collide, and dampness will appear.

For this reason, do not try to find the model with the highest heat output. This is justified only for regions with a very harsh climate. But in the north, even the most powerful sections have large radiators. For central Russia, average heat transfer is required, for southern regions, low radiators are generally needed (with a small center distance). This is the only way you can fulfill the key rule for installing batteries: blocking most of the window opening.

In cold climates, it makes sense to install a thermal curtain near the front door. This is the second problem area, but it is more typical for private houses. This problem may occur in ground floor apartments. The rules here are simple: you need to place the radiator as close to the door as possible. Choose a location depending on the layout, also taking into account the possibilities of piping.

Rules for installing heating radiators

The heating device must be located strictly in the middle of the window opening. When editing, find the middle and mark it. Then to the right and left you set the distance to the location of the fasteners.
The distance from the floor is 8-14 cm. If you make it smaller, it will be difficult to clean; if you make it larger, zones of cold air will form below.
The radiator should be 10-12 cm away from the window sill. With a closer location, convection worsens and thermal output decreases.
The distance from the wall to the back wall should be 3-5 cm. This gap ensures normal convection and heat distribution. And one more thing: at a short distance, dust will settle on the wall.

Based on these requirements, determine the most suitable radiator size, and then look for a model that satisfies them.

These are general rules. Some manufacturers have their own recommendations. And take it as advice: before purchasing, carefully study the installation requirements. Make sure that all conditions suit you. Only then buy.

To reduce non-productive losses - due to heating the wall - attach foil or a thin foil heat insulator behind the radiator on the wall. This simple measure will save 10-15% on heating costs. This is how much heat transfer increases. But keep in mind that for normal “work,” there must be a distance of at least 2-3 cm from the shiny surface to the back wall of the radiator. Therefore, the heat insulator or foil must be fixed to the wall, and not just leaned against the radiator.

When should radiators be installed? At what stage of system installation? When using radiators with side connections, you can first hang them, then start laying out the pipeline. For the lower connection the picture is different: you only need to know the center-to-center distance of the pipes. In this case, radiators can be installed after the repair is completed.

Work order

When installing radiators with your own hands, it is important to do everything correctly and take into account all the little details. Experts advise using at least three fasteners when installing sectional batteries: two on top, one on the bottom. All sectional radiators, regardless of type, are hung on mounts with an upper manifold. It turns out that the upper holders bear the main load, the lower one serves to give direction.

The installation procedure is as follows:

We tried to describe in as much detail as possible the entire technology for installing heating radiators. It remains to clarify some points.

The most common . They are used for lateral connection of heating devices of any type, both sectional, panel, and tubular (click on the picture to enlarge its size)

Mounting the radiator to the wall

All manufacturers require installation of heating radiators on a prepared, level and clean wall. The efficiency of heating depends on the correct location of the holders. A skew in one direction or another will lead to the fact that the radiator will not heat and will have to be rebalanced. Therefore, when marking, be sure to maintain horizontal and vertical lines. The radiator must be installed level in any plane (check with a building level).

You can slightly raise the edge where the air vent is installed (about 1 cm). This way the air will predominantly accumulate in this part and it will be easier and faster to release it. Reverse tilt is not permitted.

Now about how to position the brackets. Sectional radiators of light weight - aluminum, bimetallic and tubular steel - are hung from above on two holders (hooks). If the batteries are short, they can be placed between the two outer sections. The third bracket is placed at the bottom in the middle. If the number of sections is odd, place it to the right or left on the nearest section. Usually, when installing hooks, mortar sealing is allowed.

To install the brackets, holes are drilled in the marked places, dowels or wooden plugs are installed. The holders are secured with self-tapping screws with a diameter of at least 6 mm and a length of at least 35 mm. But these are standard requirements; read the passport for the heating device for more details.

The installation of the holders is different, but not radically. For such devices, standard fasteners are usually included. There can be from two to four depending on the length of the radiator (it can be three meters long).

There are brackets on the back panel with which they are hung. To install the mount, you need to measure the distance from the center of the radiator to the brackets. Set aside a similar distance on the wall (preliminarily mark where the middle of the battery will be located). Then we apply fasteners and mark the holes for the dowels. The next steps are standard: drill, install dowels, attach brackets and secure with self-tapping screws.

Features of installing radiators in an apartment

The given rules for installing heating radiators are general for both individual systems and centralized ones. But before installing new radiators, you must obtain permission from the management or operational company. The heating system is common property and all unauthorized alterations have consequences - administrative fines. The fact is that with a massive change in the parameters of the heating network (replacing pipes, radiators, installing thermostats, etc.), the system becomes unbalanced. This can lead to the entire riser (entrance) freezing in winter. Therefore, all changes require approval.

Types of wiring and connections of radiators in apartments (click on the picture to enlarge its size)

Another feature is of a technical nature. If it is vertical (one pipe enters through the ceiling, goes to the radiator, then exits and goes to the floor), when installing the radiator, install a bypass - a jumper between the supply and discharge pipelines. Paired with ball valves, this will give you the opportunity to turn off the radiator if desired (or in an emergency). In this case, no approval or permission from the manager is required: you have turned off your radiator, but the coolant continues to circulate through the riser through the bypass (that same jumper). You don't need to stop the system, pay for it, or listen to your neighbors' complaints.

A bypass is also needed when installing a radiator with a regulator in an apartment (the installation of the regulator also needs to be coordinated - it greatly changes the hydraulic resistance of the system). The peculiarity of its operation is that it blocks the flow of coolant. If there is no jumper, the entire riser is blocked. Can you imagine the consequences...

Results

Installing heating radiators with your own hands is not the easiest, but also not the most difficult task. You just need to take into account that most manufacturers give guarantees only if heating devices are installed by representatives of organizations that have a license to do so. The fact of installation and crimping must be noted in the radiator’s passport, the installer’s signature and the company’s seal must be on it. If you don’t need a guarantee, your hands are in place, it’s quite possible to handle it.

A variety of heating systems provide a comfortable air temperature inside residential premises. The basis of the vast majority of heating concepts are special heat transfer devices, commonly called batteries. You can install them yourself if you know the nuances of the work.

We have collected and systematized for you all the information about connection options and methods. Taking into account our recommendations, installing heating radiators with your own hands will be carried out without the slightest difficulty. All readers of the article we presented will be able to cope with it without any problems.

A detailed description of connection options and technologies is supplemented with visual diagrams, photo collections, and video instructions.

An initial knowledge of the modes and operating conditions of heating devices will help you understand what battery designs are needed.

Below is a summary of information about the parameters of heating systems that are important when choosing batteries:

1. Internal pressure. The value required for the correct selection of a device that can withstand the pressure in the heating circuit:

Private house (autonomous) = 1.5-2 atm.
Private house (centralized) = 2-4 atm.
5-storey building (centralized and autonomous) = 2-4 atm.
9-storey building (centralized and autonomous) = 5-7 atm.
House over 9 floors (autonomous) = 5-7 atm.
House over 9 floors (centralized) = 7-10 atm.

If the technical capabilities of the battery are lower, there is a possibility of depressurization of the device with other negative consequences.

2. Permissible heating temperature. A characteristic indicating the upper temperature limit, above which the battery may fail:

Autonomous = up to 90⁰С.
Centralized with plastic wiring = up to 90⁰С.
Centralized with steel wiring = up to 95⁰С.

Operation in violation of the temperature regime leads to melting of the seals, deformation and loss of tightness of the device.

3. Degree of coolant contamination. A parameter that is mainly of interest to water supply owners:

Autonomous private home = high, medium, low when installing filters.
Autonomous multi-storey building = high, medium, low when installing a filter system.
Centralized = low, in rare cases medium.

Water supplied by centralized networks to municipal heating systems undergoes comprehensive purification. The content of sand and clay suspension in water extracted from private wells, wells, and open sources may exceed the permissible limit.

Traditional battery installation locations

For further selection of battery designs, it is necessary to determine the points. They are placed in places of greatest penetration of cold. This is done to minimize the impact of drafts on the indoor microclimate. They also focus on ensuring availability for the purpose of periodic maintenance.

Batteries mounted at the bottom create a thermal curtain in rooms with panoramic windows, for example, on verandas

Battery Location Areas:

Window niches. The most common location for heating appliances.
Extended spaces between windows. One of the popular additional options.
Corners and “blind” walls of corner rooms. It is used to enhance heating of rooms with increased heat loss due to intense exposure to winds.
Bathrooms, storage rooms, bathrooms, one or two sides of which are combined with a solid load-bearing wall.
Unheated entrances, hallways of private houses.
Apartment corridors of the first floors of high-rise buildings.

Modern designs of heating devices fit under a balcony door or entrance to a loggia.

An example of the location of heating radiators in one house:

Image gallery

The most popular and rational location of the heating radiator is under the window, behind a protective decorative screen

If the space under the window is occupied, you can hang the radiator from an adjacent wall in close proximity to the window

An ordinary heating radiator hardly fits into the bedroom interior. The way out is a false cabinet or cabinet

In the bathroom, the heating device performs the additional function of a heated towel rail, so it often differs in design

Traditional arrangement of batteries in the living room

How to place a radiator in a children's room

Installing the battery in a cabinet

Installing a radiator-dryer in the bathroom

Design specifics of heating devices

Structurally, batteries are divided into groups: radiators, convectors and registers.

Review of popular heating devices

Radiator is the most common type. This is a heating device consisting of vertical separate compartments. In classic collapsible products, sections are independent working elements. They are joined in the required quantity using threaded internal connections. This assembly scheme gives the batteries versatility.

Before installing or possibly completing a heating radiator, it is necessary to perform a calculation in accordance with the required thermal power. According to calculations, the number of sections of prefabricated batteries is selected. The horizontal cavities of radiators obtained by connecting sections are called collectors. Top and bottom.

Modern technologies have mastered the production of less versatile, but more reliable non-separable radiators using welding and solid casting methods. They do not have joints and seals characteristic of collapsible radiators. Design - for every taste.

A convector is a one-piece heating device made of a tubular or cavity heat exchanger with rows of heat-removing fins. Convectors are available in the following versions:

Wall-mounted.
Floor (duct)
Skirting.

A register is a non-separable heating device made of straight, smooth horizontal pipes, arranged and combined in a certain way.

Details about the types of radiators

Radiators differ in the material used for their manufacture.

Within one variety there may be different design solutions, sometimes unexpectedly original.

The heating appliance market can offer:

Radiators are cast iron. The ancestors of the batteries of this group. Relatively inexpensive. Can withstand each operating mode. They serve up to 50 years. The main disadvantage is that they are heavy, which, however, helps retain heat for a long time when the heating is turned off.
Steel radiators. Such batteries are structures made of steel pipes. They work in any conditions, but are less durable than their cast iron counterparts. They have low heat transfer.
Aluminum radiators. Made from lightweight, aesthetic material, these batteries dissipate heat better than anyone else. They are resistant to all operating temperatures, but are afraid of water hammer. Aluminum is very demanding on the quality of the coolant.
Bimetallic radiators. Steel insides clad in aluminum – that says it all. The main characteristics are the same as those of steel, heat transfer is almost like that of aluminum. The price is steep.
Copper radiators. These are “eternal” heat emitters for any room. Their only and most significant disadvantage is their extremely high cost.
Radiators are plastic. Innovation in the radiator family. So far they are suitable only for autonomous heating systems of private houses with a coolant heated to no more than 80⁰C.

The most sensitive to operating conditions. These radiators reliably serve only 15 years. Their use is only possible in autonomous heating systems.

Externally, popular models of radiators made of different materials are similar:

Image gallery

A traditional type of radiator that served our grandparents faithfully. Old models have been replaced by stylized new ones

Steel radiators are characterized by a long service life and resistance to coolant characteristics

Low weight is a really important advantage of aluminum, especially if the heating device must be installed on a relatively weak support

Heating radiator made of cast iron

Heating device made of steel

Lightweight aluminum battery

Heating radiator made of copper

Characteristics of the convector variety

Convectors are significantly inferior in heat transfer to radiators, but in some cases they successfully complement or replace them:

1. Wall convectors. Batteries in this design are usually made of steel, so they are cheap. They are not resistant to water hammer, and their use in centralized heating systems is undesirable.

Convectors designed as panels look like closed radiators, are very attractive, and fit perfectly into any interior design.

But made in the form of pipes bristling with plates, such batteries are only suitable for installation in utility rooms.

2. Floor convectors (duct). An excellent solution for creating a thermal curtain at the door of a balcony or loggia. Made from durable, corrosion-resistant materials, they are unpretentious to operating requirements.

3. Skirting convectors. Capable of operating in all conditions and modes, these batteries are ideal for creating a microclimate where all other heaters would look cumbersome.

The baseboard type is appropriate in bathrooms and storage rooms adjacent to cold street walls and unheated entrances.

Brief description of heating registers

Once upon a time, batteries of this group were made handicraft using conventional welding. Registers can be used in any heating systems, but due to their unsightly appearance they are used mainly in auxiliary rooms: garages, storerooms, basements. Sometimes they can be seen in the entrances of old high-rise buildings.

Modern manufacturers have their eye on this group of heating devices.

Shiny chromed metal registers can decorate the design renovation of any living space

Calculation of thermal power of batteries

The stage of preliminary selection of batteries is completed, you can proceed to calculating the thermal power required from them. The calculations are based on a relative power of 100 W for heating 1 m² of standard room.

The full formula includes many correction factors and looks like this:

Q = (100 x S) x R x K x U x T x H x W x G x X x Y x Z,

S= area of the heated room, where:

R– additional parameter for rooms oriented to the east or north = 1.1;

K– correction for the presence of external walls in the room:

one = 1.0;
two = 1.2;
three = 1.3;
four = 1.4;

U– insulation coefficient of street walls:

low = 1.27 (without insulation);
average = 1.0 (plaster, surface thermal insulation);
high = 0.85 (insulation performed according to special calculations);

T– weather indicator of the period of lowest temperatures in ⁰С:

up to -10 = 0.7;
up to -15 = 0.9;
up to -20 = 1.0;
up to -25 = 1.1;
up to -35 = 1.3;
below -35 = 1.5;

H– ceiling height index in meters:

up to 2.7 = 1.0;
up to 3 = 1.05;
up to 3.5 = 1.1;
up to 4 = 1.15;

W– characteristics of the room located on the floor above:

unheated and uninsulated = 1.0 (cold attic);
unheated but insulated = 0.9 (attic with insulated roof);
heated = 0.8.

G– degree of window quality:

serial wooden frames = 1.27;
frames with single glazing = 1.0;
frames with double glazing = 0.85;

X– ratio of the area of window openings to the area of the room:

up to 0.1 = 0.8;
up to 0.2 = 0.9;
up to 0.3 = 1.0;
up to 0.4 = 1.1;
up to 0.5 = 1.2;

Y– battery surface openness value:

fully open = 0.9;
covered with window sill = 1.0;
obscured by a horizontal projection of the wall = 1.07;
covered with a window sill and front casing = 1.12;
blocked on all sides = 1.2;

Z– battery connection efficiency (1.0 ÷ 1.13; for more details, see the section below).

The calculated value must be multiplied by a conditional coefficient of 1.15. It will provide some heat reserve to enable more precise adjustment of devices to operate in low-temperature mode.

Effective ways to connect

Before continuing to study how to correctly select, install and connect heating radiators and other heating devices, it is necessary to consider two main types of pipe layout of existing heating systems. They differ in the principles of organizing the supply of coolant to the batteries and its return to the system.

In practice, the pipe that supplies heat is called the “supply”. The pipe that returns the coolant is “return”. The vertical distribution pipe (supply or return) is called a “riser”.

In single-pipe heating systems, the coolant is supplied unevenly. It will arrive at devices far from the boiler after it has cooled down somewhat. Therefore, single-pipe circuits have limitations on their length

Traditional wiring options:

Single-pipe. The wiring is arranged in such a way that one pipe plays the role of supply and return. The batteries “crash” into it sequentially. The coolant bypasses the heating devices in the order in which they are connected.
Two-pipe. In a two-pipe distribution, one pipe is the supply, the other is the return. With this option, the battery heating devices are connected simultaneously to both pipes, parallel to each other. The coolant circulates through all batteries simultaneously.

The “Z” coefficient in the formula for calculating thermal power depends on the options for connecting heating devices.

The most widely used connection methods in practice:

Method number 1. Diagonally. Z = 1.0.

This connection procedure is the most effective, especially if the heating system is not working well. The coolant enters the battery from the top on one side, passes through the entire internal cavity and exits from the bottom on the other side.

Thermal energy is transferred to the entire surface of the heating device. For radiators with a length of more than 12 sections, this method is highly recommended.

Method No. 2. From the side (top – entrance, bottom – exit). Z = 1.03.

Until recently, this was the most common method for connecting batteries. It is convenient for installation due to the short connection length.

For radiators of up to 12 sections, the heat transfer is almost equal to the diagonal connection method. But this is in well-functioning heating systems. If the systems are operating sluggishly, the hot coolant will not reach the final radiator compartments.

Method number 3. Bottom on both sides. Z = 1.13.

Despite the least efficiency, this connection method quickly took root in new construction, thanks to plastic pipes. Heating system wiring is installed in the floor and does not overshadow the design of the premises. With properly configured heating systems, all parts of the batteries receive uniform heating.

The final stage of battery selection

The final stage of selection is based on the results obtained of the power required from the heating devices.
Ready-made one-piece designs of radiators, convectors or registers are selected at the time of purchase.

From the factory data sheets of the products, data on their thermal power is visible. When purchasing batteries, the specifics of the installation location (for example, the possible dimensions of the device) are taken into account.

Non-separable radiators and registers with individual parameters are manufactured by specialized organizations to order. Collapsible radiators should be considered based on the number of sections, based on their total thermal power.

Approximate individual powers of standard 500 mm sections made of different materials (Watt with a coolant of 70⁰C):

Cast iron = 160;
Steel tubular = 85;
Aluminum = 200;
Bimetallic = 180.

The power of collapsible radiators is regulated by attaching additional or disconnecting unnecessary sections.
When choosing batteries of different designs for one room, it is more correct to start their selection with non-separable products.

It is also proposed to install a heat-reflecting screen between the battery and the outer wall. To make it, you can pay attention to modern heat-reflecting materials isospan, penofol, aluf.

An air vent is a small device built into the part of the battery where air can accumulate. For collapsible radiators, this is a threaded hole in the end of the upper manifold opposite the supply pipe inlet

When fixing heating devices in place, their deviation from the horizontal level is not allowed. It is allowed to raise the side with the air vent up to 1 cm for better collection and release of air.

When connecting heating devices to systems with risers, the centers of the battery inlets should not be higher than the centers of the outlets from the supply pipes. If, when connecting to risers, it is planned to equip heating units with taps or devices for temperature regulation, in single-pipe heating systems it is additionally necessary if they are absent.

Bypass is a jumper parallel to the battery connection. This element allows you to organize control of the operation of the heating device. It is a piece of pipe connecting the inlet and outlet of the battery. The diameter of the jumper pipe should be one size smaller than that of the riser pipe. In two-pipe heating systems, the installation of bypasses is not required.

Due to the vastly different expansion coefficients of materials, it is not recommended to connect batteries using plastic hoses to steel pipe wiring. Conversely, the main plastic wiring excludes the transition to steel connection parts.

Until the installation is completed, it is advisable not to remove the packaging shell from steel, aluminum and bimetallic batteries in order to avoid their mechanical damage.

Preparing dismountable radiators for installation

If the purchased collapsible batteries do not have the calculated parameters, they should be modified by disconnecting excess sections or adding to the desired quantity. The radiator compartments are tightened together using plumbing nipples through round sealing gaskets.

The nipple is a short, thick-walled tube with an external thread. Half - right, half - left. Inside the tube along its entire length there are two opposite longitudinal technological protrusions.

The radiator wrench can be replaced with a chisel of a suitable length, with a tip width sufficient to confidently engage the nipple protrusions. The role of the wrench will be played by an adjustable pipe wrench.
The design of the collapsible radiator has a left-hand thread.

To correctly perceive the direction of rotation, it is recommended to unscrew or tighten the nipples by inserting a key or chisel into the holes of the sections where the threads are right-handed. To avoid distortions of parts, the holes need to be alternated after a revolution or two of the tool.

Securing dismountable radiators in place

Collapsible radiators are hung on special brackets. The most reliable are arc-shaped hooks mounted in the main walls of premises. In this case, the distances must be ensured:

From the floor = 6-12 cm, sufficient for cleaning and heating the bottom of the wall,
at least 7 cm to the window sill to ensure effective convection,
from the heat-reflecting screen or from the wall = 3-5 cm.

The brackets are mounted in such a way as to fit into the intersection space of the radiators. According to the unwritten rule, when hanging batteries, the end caps with right-hand threads should be on the right, and those with left-hand threads on the left.

Markings for hooks are carried out in the following order:

Draw a vertical line of the axial center of the radiator (when installing the battery under a window, most often this is its center) with a length no less than the height of the battery.
The distance between the spaces of the first-second section of the radiator and the last-penultimate one is measured.
A horizontal line is drawn corresponding to the center of the upper radiator manifold, with a length no less than the measured distance (taking into account the general tips outlined above).
The distance itself is plotted to the right and left on a drawn horizontal line symmetrically relative to the line of the axial center. The resulting two points are the places for the upper hooks. They will support the weight of the structure.
From the point of intersection of the horizontal lines and the axial center, a distance equal to the center-to-center distance of the collectors (standardly 500 mm) is laid down vertically.
A horizontal line is drawn through the intended point, corresponding to the center of the lower radiator manifold.
The distance measured in point 2 is plotted left and right on a drawn horizontal line symmetrically relative to the axial center line. The resulting two points are the places for the lower hooks. They will ensure the immobility of the structure.
At the designated points, holes are drilled for dowels, into which threaded brackets are screwed or hooks with smooth rods are hammered.

The drilling process is described for cast iron and bimetallic heating devices with no more than 10 sections, and aluminum radiators with no more than 12 sections. For larger batteries, a hook should be added in the center area at the top and bottom.

Fastening in place non-demountable types

Brackets for installing non-separable radiators are usually included in the product kit. The sequence of marking the mounting points of the brackets for hanging these batteries is described in the attached installation diagram. The procedure is similar to that described for dismountable radiators.

The choice of brackets for securing convectors is varied. It is determined by the location of the heating device.

The convectors are held on the walls with brackets, fixed to the floor, and suspended from below to the window sills

By analogy with collapsible radiators, they are hung on arched hooks that are immovably embedded in the walls. The total number of brackets is standard four (two hold the upper pipe, two hold the lower pipe). For light registers, it is possible to use holders for pipes of the appropriate diameter with clamps.

Connecting batteries to heating systems

It is advisable to use a torque tool for connection work. The required tightening forces are specified in the passports of the purchased heating devices. To create a tight seal for threaded connections, you will need fluoroplastic sealing material, briefly called “FUM tape,” and plumbing flax.

If the connections of the batteries with the wiring of the heating system are made with plastic liners, you will additionally need:

Welding machine for polypropylene parts.
Or a crimping device for metal-plastic pipes.

When deciding to control the heating of batteries, taps or temperature control devices are purchased. Some ready-made designs are immediately equipped with built-in thermostats.

The required number of pipes for the supply line and the set of connecting parts (fittings) depend on the options for connecting to the heating system and are determined after the batteries are secured in place. Connection methods “diagonally”, “from the side” or “from below on both sides” are determined at the stage of calculating the thermal power of the installed

Rules for successfully installing batteries in the house. Having correctly chosen the power of heating radiators, we often do not get the desired heat in the house. What does their effective work depend on?

In order for the heating system to work correctly and efficiently, radiators must be correctly placed and mounted. Regardless of what heating system you use (autonomous or centralized), the rules for installing radiators are the same.

Location of heating radiators

The radiator must be installed so that it works with 100% efficiency. The optimal installation option is under the window. The greatest heat loss in the house occurs through the windows. The placement of heating radiators under the window prevents heat loss and condensation on the glass. For large windows, use radiators 30 cm high, or place them directly next to the window.

The recommended distance from the floor to the radiator is 5-10 cm, from the radiator to the window sill - 3-5 cm. From the wall to the back surface of the radiator 3-5 cm. If you plan to stick some kind of heat-reflecting material behind the radiator, you can reduce the distance between wall and battery to a minimum (3 cm).

The radiator must be installed strictly at right angles, both horizontally and vertically - any deviation leads to air accumulation, which leads to corrosion of the radiator.

Pipes in the heating system

Advice for those who have central heating in their home. Typically, metal pipes are used for heating systems in apartment buildings.

If the apartment has a metal riser pipe, you cannot switch to polypropylene heating pipes!

In central heating, changes in coolant temperature and pressure often occur - apartment wiring and radiators will fail within a year.

Also, under no circumstances use unreinforced polypropylene pipes - they are designed for use for water supply and are destroyed at a coolant temperature of +90°C.

Fittings for heating radiators

In order to make you comfortable during the heating season, you need to install thermostats on each radiator. This way you can save money by shutting off batteries in unused rooms and control the temperature in the house. You can purchase programmable thermostats - they will turn the radiator off/on, maintaining the required temperature.

Installation of thermostats on each radiator is possible in a two-pipe heating system. In a single-pipe system (in apartment buildings and high-rise buildings) for thermoregulation, a jumper is installed in front of the battery - a bypass. A bypass is a pipe installed perpendicularly between the supply and return. The bypass pipe must be smaller in diameter than the pipes used in the distribution of the heating system.

A Mayevsky valve is also installed on the battery - a valve for removing air from the system. These elements simplify radiator management and facilitate their repair.

Obstacles to room heating

Effective heat transfer is also affected by barriers that we ourselves create. This includes long curtains (70% of heat loss), protruding window sills (10%) and decorative grilles. Thick floor-length curtains prevent air circulation in the room - you simply heat the window and the flowers on the windowsill. The same effect, but with less consequences, is created by a window sill that completely covers the battery on top. A dense decorative screen (especially with a top panel) and placement of the battery in a niche reduce the efficiency of the radiator by 20%.

Correct installation of heating radiators– one of the main components of the high-quality functioning of the heating system as a whole. You should not be led by savings at the expense of comfortable heating.

It is difficult to imagine a cozy home without a heater or a simple radiator. Chances are, no one will live in a freezing or terribly damp house. In such a house people get sick all the time. A similar problem is relevant for Russia with its harsh climate, which is why the heating season in the country lasts about six months.

Radiators are already provided in all houses, but sometimes it happens that even with several radiators, the house does not warm up well enough. In this case, if the winter is especially cold, and the existing batteries cannot cope with the frost or there are simply no heating devices in some room, the installation of heating radiators is necessary. With them, there will be no terrible humidity in the house, leading to fungal infection of walls and furniture, and there will be no terrible cold, which can cause teeth to cramp.

Why does a radiator, or in other words a battery, cope so well with heating rooms?

The design of a heating radiator is very simple. Hot water circulates through it, it transfers heat to the metal frame, and it heats the air. Hot air rises to the ceiling, and cold air sinks down. This movement of air is called convection. To make convection more efficient, the installation of the heating battery is always the same.

To heat the house better, it is advisable to install the heating radiator near a window and as low as possible. Then all the cold air that enters the house from the street will immediately heat up and will not be able to cause discomfort to the residents.

Important things to remember before you start installing heating radiators.

It is very important to choose the right type of radiator. After all, not all of them are the same: some radiators are expensive and not efficient enough in certain cases, while others are too massive for the room in which they want to be installed.

It's worth starting with steel radiators. Installing steel batteries was very popular during the Soviet era. Such radiators have very low inertia and fairly high heat transfer. Their price and energy consumption please everyone, but still such batteries are not very durable.

After the water is drained from them, which is usually done at the end of the heating season, the radiators begin to rust from the inside. Well, also, they are bulky and therefore installing a steel radiator is not suitable for all walls and brackets.

Lighter and more convenient radiators are made of aluminum. They have very high heat transfer and heating rate. If the oxygen shell of aluminum dissolves, the metal will become very active, which means corrosion will increase.

Installation of cast iron radiators is also popular in Russia. These radiators, unlike the previous two, can last up to half a century, and all due to the inactivity of the metal. Cast iron also has a high heat capacity, so after the heating is turned off, the heat will remain for several hours. However, heat capacity also has a negative side - after connecting such a battery to a heat supply unit, you need to wait a long time for it to heat up.

For those who want to use the best properties of radiators made of aluminum and steel, bimetallic batteries have been created. Their core is made of steel and the shell is made of aluminum. However, before installing heating batteries made of two metals, you should make sure that you have enough money, because their prices are very high. But for the sake of long service and high heat transfer, you can pay any money.

There are radiators that are more difficult to install, which are mounted directly into the floor. They take up almost no space, heat the room evenly, and at the same time do not fog up the windows. However, the installation length is very high and due to the fact that the radiator is located under the floor, heat transfer is low.

Why shouldn't a non-professional try to install the battery?

Installing a heating radiator is a very difficult task and must be done with high precision. The slightest deviation from the standards can lead to a drop in heating efficiency.

In general, someone who does not understand the installation of plumbing equipment can make many mistakes. Here are some of the most common ones, after which installing a radiator will not bring the desired benefit:

Installation in the wrong location;
Incorrect connection method;
Improper handling and care.

Even if the installation of the heating battery was carried out correctly, which is very unlikely for a non-professional to work on, the battery can be placed in a place that reduces heat transfer. For example, if you place the battery in a decorative box, the heat output will drop by 15 or even 20 percent. And if the window sill is very large, then the radiator under it will lose about 10 percent of the heat.

Installing radiators and then connecting them incorrectly can be a waste of money. When the inlet and outlet pipes are connected to the radiator on one side, increasing the number of sections will worsen the condition of the system. In this case, the first section will be heated to the required 80 degrees, and the rest will be much less.

Even if somehow the installation of the heating radiator was successful, it was connected correctly and everything is going well, improper care of the battery can ruin everything. For example, if you paint a radiator in several layers, the heat will be retained by the air gap between the layers of paint, so the heating of the room will deteriorate. If you paint it, then only black, then the heat transfer will increase, but just a little. Also, do not paint the radiator white, this will slightly worsen the heat transfer.