Canon camera functions. Manual mode in the camera: how to work with it correctly and in what cases? Auto exposure lock

Each camera has a bunch of modes, so you look at them and don’t understand anything, but you want to understand something ...? If - "YES", then I will try to introduce them to you as simply and interestingly as possible. Well, if “no”, then pick up the instructions (although it will not help you much).

I want to say in advance that the camera has 4 main modes and a favorite “Auto” mode (expensive professional DSLRs have only 4 main modes). Of course, you will tell me now, but what about my favorite night mode or portrait, or some other that you use so often. But no way, this is just a husk, which is done mainly for those who understand little about the camera, and often do it quite poorly, the highlight is the modes P, S, A, M.

The first and most popular mode, which is used by 70% of people, is the mode codenamed Auto, or auto whoever is more comfortable. A mode for those who don’t particularly bother with what they can do, just press the button and that’s it. In many cases, this is correct, I'm talking about those situations if you don't understand anything about your camera at all, or you just bought it, etc. But sooner or later, I hope, you will get tired of constantly popping up flash (if you accidentally forgot to turn it off), or you will just want to find out what more your camera is capable of. If you choose the path - “do not bathe”, by the way, which is also quite likely, then well, you can stop reading this topic at this very place.

We go further, very close and dear to the regime Auto- mode "P"(programmed automatic mode). In this mode, the camera automatically selects the required and by default. You can control this ratio, if possible, of course (in low light, you won't be able to fix anything). This mode already makes you think about what you are doing, therefore, for those who take pictures back in Auto I advise you to urgently switch to the regime "R", it won’t get worse, but it’s better - I hope!

Mode, which is indicated by a Latin letter "S"(priority mode). This mode you need to know when to use it, it is intended, judging by its name, to control your shutter speed, it is. You control and the camera sets automatically, depending on the selected shutter speed. This mode is useful if you are not satisfied with the shutter speed that the camera imposes on you. For example, if you are shooting handheld in a dark room and don't want to blur the frame, you can set the shutter speed you need using the mode "S".

Mode "BUT"(priority mode).

This mode is the exact opposite of the previous one. Those. in this mode, you set the value and the camera controls automatically. As for me, this is the most convenient mode, 90% of all the photos that I photograph are taken in this mode! Why, yes, because controlling the aperture is much easier than controlling everything, or controlling the shutter speed! For example, you are photographing a portrait of a person, in mode "BUT" quickly set the one you need, and then you want to photograph the landscape, without switching anything you just change the aperture value. Simple, convenient? Yes!

"M"(manual) or manual mode. You have to set both the shutter speed and the aperture, and still control the . My advice to you, if you hear from someone - take pictures only in mode "M" and you will be a cool photographer, run away from this person, this mode should be used extremely rarely, and in certain situations, for example, if you (I still take pictures in it when I attach old Soviet lenses to the camera, but not because I want to but because there is no other way). Why am I so negative about this, because I have met very, well, just very few people (or rather, I have not met any) who can do it faster and better than a professional DSLR, into which the developers have invested all their experience , and not small. Yes, you can choose the parameters you need, while spending a lot of time on it, do you need it? You have a SLR camera in your hands, you are in the 21st century, if you want thrills - pick up a film camera, exposure meter and take pictures the way my father did, who took pictures on film for 20 years, developed it and took it during sleepless nights Photo.

Bonus: “video” mode, everything seems so clear, rejoice those who have it, and rejoice even more those who do not have it! Although sometimes, very rarely, I regret that I don’t have it on my cameras.

Usually, after getting bored with all the 'Auto' modes of the camera, a lot of people start using special semi-automatic modes. M, A, S, P. These modes can be found on the camera control wheel, as shown in the picture below. Normal mode M, A, S, P stand out in a separate set, for example, in the photo below, these modes are highlighted with a special arc that unites them. Can be found instead of naming ‘M, A, S, P’ another name - ‘P, A, S, M’ or 'M, AV, TV, P'- they are all the same. I will try to talk about these modes in this article.

All modes of operation of the camera are aimed at creating the optimal. Either mode selects the shooting parameters in such a way as to get the most correct picture in terms of the amount of light needed to convey the exposed scene.

Important: modes P, A, S, M give additional access to many menu items, which are not available in automatic modes. In these modes, you can customize any function to your liking, such as controlling ISO, choosing a picture format, etc.

To understand how these P, A, S, M modes work, I strongly recommend that you familiarize yourself with such basic concepts in photography as:

• Diaphragm

P

The simplest special mode is the mode ‘P’ (Programmed) – flexible program mode.

It is very similar to the automatic mode of the camera 'Auto', but in this mode you can change shutter speed within certain limits. varies within the range allowed by the extreme aperture values ​​of the lens. The shutter speed can be changed using the camera's control wheels. If changed by the photographer, “*” is added to the mode name. The shortest in the mode 'P' is available at the smallest F number, and the longest is available at the largest F number. There is a golden rule, the interchangeability of aperture values ​​​​and, just on this rule, the operation of this mode is built. For example, if you increase the shutter speed, for example, by 2 times, then the aperture will close by one step.

Example: if you increase the shutter speed from 1/200 second to 1/100 second, then this will allow the matrix to absorb more light and get overexposure, so the camera must reduce the amount of light by covering the aperture, and the aperture will close by one step. For example, if at 1/200s it was F4.0, then at 1/100s it will become F5.6. I do not like this mode because it constantly tries to set the value and aperture, which are convenient for the camera itself. With each new scene with a different exposure, camera reselects shutter speed/aperture values and the shutter speed has to be changed again and again to suit your tasks.

What 'P' mode is used for: convenient to use when moving from the green zone (fully automatic camera mode) to class modes M, A, S, P. You can be sure that the camera will help you set the normal settings. In this mode, you can photograph almost everything without worrying about the correct settings. It is very easy to achieve the fastest shutter speeds available, which allows you to get the lens and the current ISO value, while you can be completely sure that the frame is correctly exposed. This can be used for ' '. If you turn on the auto-ISO mode, then the program mode works a little differently.

A(or Av)

A very useful mode is the 'A' (Aperture Priority) mode, or 'Av' (Aperture value) mode - aperture priority

This is one of my favorite camera modes. It is quite convenient, as it allows you to control the aperture, and with it the depth of field. In this mode, you can simply set the desired aperture value, and the camera itself recalculates and selects the shutter speed. The larger the aperture, the slower the shutter speed. Conversely, the smaller the aperture, the longer the shutter speed. The shutter speed maneuver is much wider than the aperture maneuver. Usually the shutter speed changes from 30 seconds to 1/8000 second, that is, the shutter speed limits are very large and the camera is almost can always choose the desired shutter speed for almost any aperture value on the camera.

For example: for a lens with aperture limits from F3.5 to F36, the camera will almost always select the desired shutter speed for any value of the F-number. So, for F3.5, a relatively short shutter speed will be selected, and for F / 36, a slow shutter speed will be selected.

If at a certain value of the number F the camera cannot find the desired shutter speed, then on the camera, in the field that is responsible for the shutter speed, the HiGH or LOW value will be displayed.

What is 'A' mode used for: In this mode, it is very convenient to control. With aperture priority mode, you can easily. Usually, aperture control can greatly improve image quality, since most lenses only give maximum image quality in a certain F-number range. For example, aperture greatly affects vignetting and . With this mode, you can easily control the intensity of bokeh, which is sometimes important for photographing portraits. And with the help of a closed aperture in the mode 'BUT' you can achieve photos with a long exposure, for example, . You can also get various interesting effects, for example. This mode works very effectively when enabled.

S (or TV)

'S' mode - (Shutter Priority), or 'Tv' (Time value) - shutter priority

It's the opposite here - this mode allows you to control the shutter speed, unlike the program mode, the shutter priority mode allows you to set any shutter speed that the camera can use. If you set a certain shutter speed on the camera, the camera itself will select the desired aperture value. The mode works similarly to the aperture priority mode, but instead of the aperture value, you need to set the shutter speed here. Aperture travel is quite limited, and often you will find that the camera cannot set the desired aperture for a certain shutter speed.

If at a certain shutter speed the camera cannot find the desired aperture value, then the camera will display the HiGH or LOW value in the field that is responsible for the aperture.

What is 'S' mode used for: using this mode is very easy to achieve. This is very useful when shooting sports and fast moving subjects. In order to freeze something in a photo, it is enough to take a picture at a fast shutter speed, for example, at 1/2000 second, while the camera itself will select the desired aperture value for a shutter speed of 1/2000 second. Also, in this mode it is convenient without blurring the picture. This mode works very well with the auto ISO function turned on.

M

'M' (Manual) - manual mode.

In this mode, the camera will have to set both shutter speed and aperture. manually, in fact, because the mode is called ‘ manual camera control here.

Conclusions:

Creative semi-automatic camera control modes are very useful in a number of cases and can very easily get the camera to do what the photographer wants. I recommend doing your own experiments.

↓↓↓ Like :) ↓↓↓ Thank you for your attention. Arkady Shapoval.

Manual and semi-automatic modes of the camera, in contrast to the scenery modes of the green zone, allow the photographer to use the resources of the camera as efficiently as possible. On the technical side, in all programs of work, the camera is always guided by the principle of reciprocity of exposure parameters.

Automatic operating modes

In the "green zone" modes, most of the camera parameters are not available for editing, and the camera works according to the program embedded in it, with the lowest possible settings available to the user. The well-known phrase “In the green zone, the camera works at 30 percent of its capabilities” appeared for a reason - despite the availability of the CZK menu in scene modes, often the image quality in them does not cause any admiration, since the camera program, in itself, without the possibility of adjustment, far from ideal.

Switching modes is done by turning the main control dial of the camera. Icons corresponding to the mode are marked on the disk.

There are several green zone modes on Canon SLR cameras:

• Portrait. In this mode, the camera tries to set the lens aperture to the maximum open value, as this allows you to perfectly separate the subject from the background.

• Landscape. Landscape photography uses a large depth of field (aperture values ​​from f/5.6) at a shutter speed of at least 1/focal length of the lens.

• Sport. As a rule, the sports mode involves shooting moving objects. With manual control of the parameters, the shortest shutter speed is selected, and the aperture that allows you to separate the background from the object in these conditions. The camera in automatic mode, in addition, connects the object tracking mode.

• No flash. Shooting in automatic mode, with the flash turned off (recommended for use in museums, zoos).

• Night portrait. Long exposure at an open aperture and high ISO. Due to possible shaking, it is better to use stabilization (tripod, etc.)

• Auto. Fully automatic shooting mode. The camera according to the program, depending on the current lighting conditions, will decide for itself which exposure pair to choose. A very dubious mode in terms of output quality, especially if shooting is in JPEG.

• Macro. In macro mode, the camera tries to increase the depth of field, shooting is carried out at the minimum possible distance from the lens (not less than the minimum focusing distance).

• Custom Creative Mode (CA). In this mode, the camera allows you to further change the shooting atmosphere (tint the image). Otherwise, the same machine.

You can use these modes at the very beginning of your photography journey, they are well described in the names of the modes themselves, or you can try to figure out the camera settings and start taking technically more advanced shots.

Manual and semi-automatic modes

Manual and semi-automatic modes of operation of the camera are also programs embedded in the camera. Unlike scenario modes, they have b about more controllable parameters, and are used, thanks to this, in a variety of photography conditions. There are few such modes:

• Aperture Priority (Aperture Value - A, Av)

• Shutter Priority, Time Value - S, Tv

• Program machine (Program AE - P)

• Manual Mode (M)

• Freehand shooting mode

A number of modern cameras also have camera modes in which all user-set parameters (Custom, C1, C2, C3) are saved.

Aperture priority (A, Av)

In this mode, the photographer can change the diameter of the aperture aperture of the lens. The camera adjusts the required shutter speed based on the current aperture value. This mode is usually used to control the depth of field in the resulting image. For example, when shooting portraits.

On most Canon DSLRs, aperture priority mode is convenient for manual lens use.

Shutter priority (S, Tv)

In this mode, the camera selects the aperture value based on the shutter speed set by the photographer. It can be used, for example, when shooting fast moving objects (birds, cars, and so on), or vice versa, if you need to open the shutter for a long time (shooting the starry sky from a tripod). Also, shutter priority is used in dynamic lighting conditions, and when there is no need (or opportunity) to think about depth of field.

Photo taken in shutter priority. Canon 1Ds and Jupiter-37A

Program machine (P)

In the programmable machine, the camera works almost like in automatic mode. The difference is that it is possible to change the combination of the exposure pair, set the metering parameters, and the sensitivity to light. Exposure compensation is also available.

The program machine can be inconvenient in that the camera position often differs from the user’s position: when shooting, for example, moving objects, the automation often sets the exposure one to three stops lower than necessary, since the calculation is based on lighting data, and not happening around 🙂

The software machine, in principle, allows you to take good shots.

Manual mode (M)

In the manual mode of the camera, the photographer can play with the settings as he needs - you can change the shutter speed, aperture, metering mode, sensor sensitivity, exposure compensation, and others. The camera displays only the exposure meter readings.

Manual mode is typically used in difficult electronics environments. For example, when all possible methods of exposure metering do not bring the proper result, or it is necessary to take a picture of a moving object with a very shallow depth of field. Well, or in night shooting.

The picture was taken in manual mode.

Freehand shooting mode

Bulb shooting mode (BULB) is a mode for controlling the camera shutter manually. Used, for example, when taking pictures of the starry sky, or in other situations where manual shutter control is necessary. In this mode, the shutter opens when the shutter button is pressed and closes when it is released. Previously, in film cameras, this mode was used to work with non-synchronized flash lamps, hence the name - BULB (lamp).

Also found

A-DEP- Depth of field control mode. The user uses the button on the body of the camera (usually the DOF button) to indicate the “from” and “to” points for setting the depth of field, and the camera already “adjusts” the exposure parameters. The mode is found in digital SLR cameras Canon EOS Digital. Exposure compensation is also available in this mode.

Sv— light sensitivity priority mode. It works like a software machine, only the camera also sets the sensitivity of the matrix.

TAv- exposure priority mode. In it, the camera selects the necessary matrix light sensitivity based on the exposure / exposure parameters set by the user.

Sv and TAv modes are found in Pentax cameras. They are not used in Canon and Nikon, since it is possible to auto-adjust the ISO (Auto ISO) in any of the semi-automatic modes.

What camera modes to use

As you may have understood, there are no universal modes. The most versatile mode is Photographer Experience. And experience, as you know, comes through the study of theory and practice. However, with an accuracy of 146 percent, I can assure you that when you leave the “green zone” and after a little practice, you will later want to re-shoot everything that you “shot” on the machine.

Ask questions in the comments.

Good afternoon! I'm in touch with you, Timur Mustaev. How well do you know your technique? I cannot deny the importance of ideas and imagination for photography, but somewhere, perhaps, boring technical moments are indispensable.

Knowing the features of a particular camera is the key to productive interaction with it. How else can you get amazing photos? The only way. The basis of the basics can be called the ability to set the desired modes on the camera. But how to work with them correctly? We will talk about this a little, and most importantly, we will figure out what the manual mode of the camera means.

About modes in general

Modes, or shooting methods, are a very significant characteristic of a camera. They are required for all cameras. The model here does not affect this, for example, you have canon or nikon - in any case, the set of modes is more or less standard. I will quickly go over the main ones, and in more detail, of course, we will touch on the manual one.

So, on the right side of the body of photographic equipment, you can find a movable wheel with all sorts of letters and symbols. It:

• Auto. And in principle, other “colorful” names of modes can be attributed here - Landscape, Portrait, Night, Children, Macro, etc. Their whole point is that the camera chooses the parameters itself, there will certainly be small differences in each, but in general they are small. And I'm almost sure that if you take pictures on a car, then you will not pay attention to the values ​​\u200b\u200band other parameters at all. Otherwise, the mode is called - "Point and shoot!".
• Software (P). In many ways it is similar to the previous one, except that you can set the ISO sensitivity yourself. Not a very big deal, I tell you, but you need to start somewhere!
• . On Nikon, it is denoted by the letter A, on Canon (any, for example, Canon 600D) - Av. The f-value is determined by the photographer, and the shutter speed is determined by the camera. A convenient way to shoot when you are photographing a stationary subject or landscape.
• (S - Nikon, Tv - Canon). Everything is also clear, inversely to aperture priority: choose the time. Fast or slow shutter speeds, respectively, can freeze or blur motion.
• Manual (M)– beyond creative modes. All parameters are up to you!

Advantages and disadvantages of manual mode

Well, let's talk about the advantages and disadvantages of the latter mode.

Main advantage M lies in the mass of photography opportunities that you control. And this means that whatever the external conditions or the specifics of the object in the frame, you can deal with them.

Moreover, the selected values ​​will be saved. They will not jump with any change in circumstances or camera position as they do in other modes where the camera controls part of the exposure.

One of the drawbacks, or rather a natural consequence of the first statement, is that if you are a beginner and poorly versed in the camera, then self-tuning the camera will not do anything and may completely confuse you.

Also, as you might expect, manual mode takes more time, because until you evaluate the circumstances, until you set everything up.

Therefore, it cannot be called mobile in any way, especially with constantly changing lighting, weather or shooting location.

Practice for beginners

Experienced photographers, of course, do not have a question how to use M. Although it is not always a priority in work. I personally often use the aperture mode, but when I'm in no hurry and want to achieve the perfect picture, I'm happy to fiddle with all the available options, choosing the right values.

This mode is always used when photographing in the studio.

Getting started with manual mode can be difficult. Seeing the main parameters on the screen, do not rush to change everything at once. Assess the conditions: what time of day, how sunny, and adjust the ISO.

Next, decide on the purpose of filming, what is important to photograph. So, if you need to make a portrait of a girl, then adjust the aperture, and then the shutter speed. In a situation of freezing a moving object, it is definitely more important to determine the shutter speed: focus on 1/800 sec. and below, 1/1000 and so on. To blur the background around a moving object, on the contrary, the time should increase, 1/400 and so on.

Pay all attention to the built-in exposure meter, which you will notice in the viewfinder. Ideally, the small arrow should be at 0 - this is a normally exposed picture, if it deviates to the left or right, it will be under- or overexposed.

When is manual mode useful?

I want to give a few examples where manual mode would be useful.

1. Shooting in low ambient light or at night without flash. The camera will not be able to take an adequate picture in any other mode than the manual - it will have too little light. The photographer, on the other hand, can set even the lowest values, at which the exposure meter will simply go off scale, but the camera will take a picture. The resulting image can be brightened using exposure compensation or already in post-processing. In this case, shooting sunsets, an exact or evening city, and so on can serve as an example.
2. In studios. With it is necessary to synchronize the camera through a special device, synchronizers. And this synchronization is most often done thanks to a predetermined aperture, shutter speed and ISO.
3. Special lenses are manual lenses that have problems transmitting aperture information from the camera.
4. Creating high-resolution HDR images, that is, the picture in this case consists of several others, taken with different parameters. Manual mode is also useful here if you are a professional and know what kind of photo you want to get in the end.

I wonder what other parameters can be configured manually? If you carefully look at the menu, you can find a lot of interesting things.

Various cool chips are available even to owners of soap dishes or not very expensive DSLRs, for example, Nikon d3100 and its series. We must use every opportunity to somehow improve our frame, make it unique. Settings help us!

Here we can distinguish the following: according to Kelvin, brightness and saturation at the stage of photographing, the area and location of the focus point, etc. But these are completely different articles.

Conclusion

How about manual mode? Difficult? In the beginning, it's always like this, don't be discouraged, now I'll tell you a little trick to better understand this mode.

Pick up something you would like to photograph. For this example, the conditions are not important, whether you are shooting at home or on the street. Set the camera to Auto mode, but without the flash, it is also on the wheel, only marked with a crossed out lightning bolt. It is advisable to fix the camera.

You can use the table. Place an object at one end and a camera at the other. The distance between them should be within 1 meter.

Aim the camera at the subject and press the shutter button halfway so that the camera focuses on the subject, but do not press all the way. Either in the visor (the eye where you look in a SLR camera), or values, shutter speeds, apertures, ISO will appear on the screen. Write them down. After recording the data, you can press the button to the end and take a picture, let it be your option.

We switch to M mode, set the settings that you recorded and take a picture. Let's see how it turned out. Next, we start experimenting. If the picture is dark, you can open the aperture, i.e. put a value less than 5.6, 4.0, 3.5. Or increase the shutter speed, 1/400, 1/200, 1/100 and so on.

If, on the contrary, the photo turned out to be bright, do the opposite actions of the aperture and shutter speed. Try not to touch the ISO, but it's better to bring it to 100 and practice with shutter speed and aperture.

But remember, the smaller the aperture value, the smaller it is!

If you want to develop in the field of photography and learn how to do it well, full mastery of the manual mode is necessary for you. I can also recommend a good video course below. It details what a SLR camera is capable of. Many tricks and secrets of photography are revealed. Everything is shown in examples. Everything is explained in a very accessible and understandable way. I recommend!

Digital SLR for beginners 2.0- for owners of a NIKON SLR camera.

My first MIRROR- for owners of a CANON SLR camera.

See you! Dear readers, do not be too lazy to study your camera. And my blog will help you with this! In order not to miss anything useful, subscribe to the update. Share with your friends, I will be very grateful.

All the best to you, Timur Mustaev.

Even the most experienced photographer can sometimes use pre-programmed modes to focus on the shot rather than calculating the exposure and never miss a chance to get a great shot. But if you're new to photography or want to expand your skills beyond Auto mode, then start by leaving the green square area.

When you set up your camera to take a picture, there are four main outcomes to choose from: deep DOF, shallow DOF, motion blur, or motion freeze. How do you know which modes to use to get the desired result in your photo? Let's see.

Auto (Green square)

In Auto mode, your camera will automatically set the shutter speed, aperture, ISO, white balance, and even the built-in flash for you.

Pros: This is a great option for beginners - but don't get addicted to it! Use it only until you learn how to set up the camera yourself.

Disadvantages: under certain lighting conditions, automatic settings can lead to undesirable results. For example, a backlit portrait will only show the silhouette. In low light conditions, the image may appear blurry and grainy; the camera can also choose to use the built-in flash to add some light, and many camera models do not have a flash off feature if you don't want to use it.

When to use: Every time you use your camera as a compact, this is your mode.

This portrait was deliberately taken with the sun set to Auto. The camera did a decent job of setting the exposure, but the shot is still 1/2 stop underexposed. Settings auto exposure such: excerpt 1/250 sec., diaphragmf/6.3, ISO 100.If a excerpt andISOacceptable, then diaphragm can It was would decrease and do background less distracting.

Program mode(P)

In Program mode, your camera will automatically set your shutter speed and aperture, but will let you select ISO, white balance, exposure compensation, and flash.

Advantages: This is a great next step for a beginner who wants to have a little more control over their camera and improve their photos.

Flaws: As with Auto mode, certain lighting conditions may produce unpredictable results due to partially automatic settings that sometimes leave results to chance.

When to use: Use this mode if you want to take a step towards full control over camera settings.

A priority excerpts(TV - Canon) (S - Nikon)

In Shutter Priority mode, you choose your shutter speed and ISO and the camera will automatically set the appropriate aperture for the correct exposure.

Advantages: Great for capturing frozen action and motion blur of moving objects.

Flaws: In this mode, you control the shutter speed, so be careful what aperture the camera chooses for the correct exposure. It also matters what lens you use. Some cameras can shoot at very fast shutter speeds, but if the lens doesn't have a large enough aperture, the image will be underexposed. For example, if you're shooting at 1/4000 sec and the correct exposure requires f/2.8, but your lens maximizes it at f/3.5, the image will be underexposed.

When to use: Use this mode when you need to control the movement of the subject you are photographing. Use a fast shutter speed if you want to capture motion, or a slow shutter speed if you want to blur motion. This mode is also useful when using large mm lenses when you need to set a fast shutter speed to prevent camera shake from blurring the image.

Shutter priority was used with a shutter speed of 1/8 sec to blur the fast moving water.

Freezing very fast movement- 1/3000 sec.

Athletes on the move– from 1/500 to 1/1000 sec.

Birds in flight– from 1/1000 to 1/2000 sec.

Walking people- 1/250 sec.

Panning moving objects– 1/30 to 1/125 sec.

Blurring of fast moving water- 1/8 sec.

Blurring of slow moving water- 1/2 sec.

aperture priority (AV – Canon) (A – Nikon)

In Aperture Priority mode, you choose the aperture and ISO and the camera will automatically set the appropriate shutter speed for the correct exposure.

Advantages: Aside from Manual (next paragraph), Aperture Priority is the most popular mode among photographers, mainly because it gives you control over what is in focus and what isn't. And in most cases, the element that is in focus makes the photo successful or doomed to failure.

Flaws: In poor lighting conditions, the camera may select a very slow shutter speed, resulting in image blur due to both subject movement and camera shake.

When to use: Use this mode when you want to control the depth of field of your image. The larger the aperture, the more light will hit the camera sensor and the shallower the depth of field will be. Conversely, the smaller the aperture, the less light will hit the sensor, and the greater the depth of field. Keep in mind that changing the aperture will affect the shutter speed. More light from a large aperture will result in a fast shutter speed, and less light from a small aperture will result in a slow shutter speed.

Set to Aperture Priority to increase depth of field.

landscapes- f/8 or higher for greater depth of field

portraits– large aperture (f/2.8) for shallow depth of field and blurry background

Macro- f/8 or higher for greater depth of field

Manual mode (M)

Manual mode allows you to change both shutter speed and aperture independently of each other. The camera does not make any automatic adjustments. Your camera's built-in exposure meter will tell you which exposure will be correct, but you have full control over the shutter speed and aperture settings individually to achieve the exposure that's right for the shot you're aiming for. Before using manual mode, it's a good idea to become familiar with the exposure triangle (shutter speed, aperture, and ISO) and how they will affect the image.

Advantages: This mode gives you full control over the image you create.

Flaws: While this mode gives you a lot of creative options, you should be careful to check the exposure of each image at all times, especially under rapidly changing lighting conditions.

When to use: After you learn how to use this mode, its effects and settings results, and how they work together, you will use this mode almost always.

In Manual mode, a small aperture was used to control the depth of field and a slow shutter speed was used to blur the movement of the water.

Mode scenes

Scene Mode is very similar to Auto. You select a scene, and the camera sets the optimal settings for a given scenario. Different camera models may have different Scenes, but the ones listed here are the most popular:

Sport- The camera will increase the ISO and use a fast shutter speed to capture motion.

Landscape– the camera uses a small aperture to maximize the depth of field; the flash can also be disabled.

Portrait- The camera will use a large aperture to keep the background out of focus. Some camera models use face detection in this mode.

Macro- The camera will select a small aperture to give as much depth of field as possible.

Advantages: Like Program, this Scene mode is primarily a starting point for beginners and usually produces better results than shooting in Auto mode.

Flaws: These settings usually give the desired result, but sometimes it can be different and unreliable.

When to use: Scene mode can be the next step for beginners after Auto mode, use it as a starting point to learn how your camera works and improve your photography skills.

So which mode the best?

Which mode to use is up to you. But if you choose Auto, Scene, or Program modes and want to improve your photos, learn how to set the correct exposure based on shutter speed, aperture, and ISO; this will help you make the right settings and create good photos. For professional photographers, the two most popular modes are Manual and Aperture Priority. But remember that professionals were once beginners too. So enjoy your photography experience no matter which mode you choose!