Do-it-yourself two-level stretch ceiling: a solvable problem. How to install a two-level stretch ceiling? Description, photo How to make a two-level stretch ceiling

Stretch ceilings are distinguished by their beautiful appearance and ease of installation. They look especially good in large, high rooms. To create suspended ceilings, vinyl film or special fabric is used. There are several types of surface - matte, glossy, satin. It should also be noted that there is a large selection of colors, which allows you to implement various design ideas. You can combine tension fabrics with other materials, such as plasterboard, creating two-level ceiling structures.

Stretch ceilings are comfortable, beautiful, and practical. They serve for more than ten years, are installed quickly and without dust, and successfully hide electrical wiring and other communications.

Usually, the installation of the structure is carried out by specialists, but if you wish, you can do this work yourself. It is quite possible to perform a two-level one.

Features of tensile structures

Before you decide to install a ceiling system, you should learn about their advantages, disadvantages and features.

They have the following advantages:

• creating a flat surface in a short time;
• flood protection;
• attractive appearance.

Ceilings in apartments are usually far from perfect, and height differences are quite significant and noticeable. To level the surface, it is necessary to plaster it, and this takes a lot of time and effort. And with the help of stretch ceilings you can quickly get a perfectly smooth coating that is pleasing to the eye. In addition, the choice of paintings is very wide, so you can easily choose the one that best suits the decor of the room. For example, you can make suspended ceilings on two levels.

No one is safe from a flood. It’s rare that someone hasn’t encountered a situation where their neighbors are flooded. If done correctly, you don’t have to worry about the safety of repairs and furniture - the canvas does not allow water to pass through. To eliminate the consequences of a flood, you will only need to drain the water that has collected in the interceiling space, freeing the edge of the canvas in one place, or do this through the hole for the lighting fixture.

Like any other covering, stretch ceilings also have their drawbacks.

These include:

• fragility;
• PVC film does not tolerate low temperatures;
• high cost of fabric and installation.

The main disadvantage of tension systems is their rather high price compared to other finishing options. At the same time, repairs will not be required soon, so the cost of the paintings is quite justified. Stretch ceilings retain their original appearance for more than ten years, therefore, having installed such a structure, you will not have to worry about the need for repairs for a long time. At the same time, the canvases cannot be called strong - they can be damaged by a sharp object.

Now on the Internet you can find many instructions on how to make a two-level stretch ceiling with your own hands. To decide on the design, you should look at the photo. You can understand the installation technology even better with the help of a training video.

Preparing for ceiling installation

The most difficult thing to expect during ceiling installation:

• taking measurements - it is very important to do this correctly in order to get a perfectly smooth and beautiful surface;
• cutting the canvas - any mistake can lead to damage to expensive material;
• work with equipment - during the installation process it is necessary to use a gas heat gun, and it is important to comply with all safety requirements.

Whatever the design of the two-level stretch ceiling, it is necessary to prepare the following tools and materials:

• screwdriver;
• hammer drill for attaching profiles to walls;
• level for marking;
• heat gun with a gas cylinder - in order to stretch the fabric, it must be heated;
• profiles for the frame;
• tension fabric;
• drywall;
• ladder;
• special spatulas and spatulas for stretching and attaching the fabric.

Before you start making a frame for a two-level stretch ceiling, you need to complete. The rough ceiling must be cleaned of old, crumbling plaster, electrical wires must be laid out, leading them to the places where the lighting fixtures will be located in the future. The surface is treated with an antiseptic primer to avoid the appearance of mold and mildew - stretch fabrics do not “breathe”, so ideal conditions for their existence are created in the interceiling space.

Two-level stretch ceiling - frame assembly, details in the video:

Installation of two-level structures

Before you order a canvas, you need to think about the design of the future ceiling. All details must be noted on the sketch, including the transition of the stretch ceiling level and the location of the lamps. After taking measurements, an order is made from a company that produces structures.

Installation begins with the creation of a frame and installation of baguettes for attaching the canvas. Drywall is attached to the frame in the right places, it is puttied and painted, and lamps are installed. Then they begin to stretch the fabric, preheating it with a heat gun to a temperature of 70 degrees. The heated film is fixed in the profile using spatulas. Devices are inserted into the holes prepared for the lamps, and the canvas is secured to them with special latches.

Even the simplest options for two-level stretch ceilings will not be cheap. The more complex the design, the more you will have to pay for it. Therefore, in order to save money, many people prefer to do this work themselves. There is a lot of information about installing ceilings on our website, so if you have at least a little experience in carrying out repairs, you can cope with this task (more details: " "). However, it is worth remembering that the canvases themselves are expensive, and they can be easily damaged during installation. If you have even slight doubts about your own abilities, it is better to entrust the installation of suspended ceilings to specialists.

Do you want to learn how to install such complex ceilings as in the starting photo?

Then you've come to the right place! Today we will take a detailed look at how suspended ceilings are installed on two levels.

This material will be useful, first of all, to novice craftsmen who have not yet carried out such work, but they do not want to miss a good client. And it is right!

You always need to strive for more, and not at the expense of your “I”, which can often be found on various construction sites, when craftsmen “in words”, in fact, cannot do what is required of them, but by systematically developing their skills and abilities, becoming real professionals. A competent approach to business is the key to your success!

Preparation

Let's go in order, and as usual, the work begins with installing the frame, but first let's make a small digression to understand what we need to do in the end, and what materials and tools are needed for this.

Tools and materials

If you have previously stretched single-level ceilings, then it means you already have the tool, but it wouldn’t hurt to repeat it.

So:

As with almost any type of installation work, you will also need:

• Pencil;
• Yardstick;
• Carpenter's square;
• Markers;
• Dyeing thread;
• Stationery knife;
• Building level.

Perhaps we forgot to mention some little things, but when describing the installation, they will definitely come up, so read on.

Now we list the main materials, accessories and consumables that you cannot do without:

• The ceiling itself, where would it be without it - after the frame is mounted, the film will be stretched over it.

• Load-bearing wall molding - no matter what profile it is, or what material it is made of (PVC or aluminum), we are now interested in its functional purpose. This baguette is screwed onto the walls, forming the basis for fixing the canvas.

• We will need plywood to form the base of the lower levels. If a straight box is being installed, then its thickness should be at least 15 mm, but if we are talking about curved structures, then you can take 4-5 mm for making a homemade base for subsequent bending and layer-by-layer strengthening, but this option is an extreme case, which we will discuss in detail below.

• Powerful and even corners made of galvanized steel - they are used to fasten a plywood or plastic base to the load-bearing floor.

• The separator is located in the inner corners of multi-level structures, allowing you to connect different canvases in one line. It is mounted on plywood and, if desired, can be replaced with a universal profile along with a wall profile.
• The bumper is mounted along the bottom edge of the plywood and forms the front edge of the outer corner of the lower level of the structure. In other words, the tension of the fabric passes through it.

• The lip is a plastic attachment that fits over the lower edge of the bumper to protect the blade from contact with possible burrs on a metal or cut plastic profile, and also to make the bend at the corner smoother and more beautiful.

The consumables you will need are: plastic dowels, wood screws of the appropriate length, reinforced tape, thermal rings and glue for them (for example, “Cosmofen”), metal straight hangers and, of course, a good mood - don’t waste it!!!

Frame installation

Well, we’ve found out what it’s pointless to start work without. Now let's talk about everything in more detail.

Marking

Let's start with a simpler option, when we plan to make a straight box.

First, we need to determine the boundaries of the future structure. We will need a laser level, a pencil and a tape measure.

• First of all, we discuss with the customer the dimensions of the future structure and draw up a small drawing on paper - preferably to scale.
• We mark the ceiling - to do this, we set a distance from the wall using a tape measure that is 2 centimeters less than the agreed distance. This is done in order to take into account the thickness of the bumper and separator. If you are marking for a curved structure, make a margin of 3 centimeters to also take into account the thickness of the plastic.

• Next, using a dye thread, we beat off straight lines along the drawn marks, forming a contour along which we will install our frame.

• Next, the lower limit of the ceiling is determined. If, according to the project, the shortest distance to the ceiling is clearly defined, then you first need to find the lowest point on the ceiling - most often this is one of the corners in the room.
• We install a laser axle builder, and along the lines drawn by it we put marks in the corners of the room.
• We measure the distance from them to the ceiling, finding the smallest value that will need to be compared with the design height. If it is less, then use the tape measure to put the resulting difference down from the marks.
• If you need to check the entire surface of the ceiling, for example, you have a strict reference to height or wiring, then having secured the level under the ceiling, we methodically walk along the entire ceiling, applying a tape measure - the laser will show you all the differences, intersecting with it.

• After these simple manipulations, we draw lines with a dye thread - stretch it and beat it off, not forgetting to pour dye into the body of the device before unwinding.

With the marking of curved structures, everything is a little more complicated. They can be divided into two types: regular and irregular.

The first include figures that can be drawn using a compass, for example, a pattern consisting of circles or an ellipse. The latter can have an arbitrary shape with small waves and non-standard bends.

How long should a compass be, you ask. Yes, in fact, it doesn’t matter, we will assemble it ourselves for specific needs. To do this, you will need an aluminum profile (although any other metal profile will do), a sharpened pencil, a pair of self-tapping screws and one dowel screw.

• We take the profile and drill a hole in it equal to the diameter of a simple pencil. Then we install the pencil itself into it.
• Having retreated the required distance (radius) from this hole, we drill a second hole that will correspond to the central axis of the circle.

Advice! If it suddenly turns out that the length of one profile is not enough, then connect two pieces in length using self-tapping screws.

• We drill a hole in the ceiling in the center of the future circle and attach the profile to it through a dowel-screw.

The compass is ready - with its help you can draw a perfectly even circle.

If you need to apply a non-standard design to the ceiling, it is most convenient to proceed as follows:

• For more accurate orientation, it is worth initially marking not the ceiling, but the floor.
• At the control points we stick pieces of masking tape and mark them with a pencil. If necessary, the tape can be easily removed or moved.
• The more dots you apply, the more accurate the outline you will get.

• Next, we take a laser level and set it with the center of the cross, one by one, along all the previously drawn points. As you might guess, the tool will project a second similar cross on the ceiling, in the center of which we make a mark.
• If you have a simple level that cannot build a cross, then it’s okay - we install it perpendicular to the wall and measure the distance from the bottom point to the wall, after which we put it at the top along the laser line.

• Next, take a wall-mounted plastic baguette and bend it along the resulting control points. Make sure that there are no strong kinks or obvious geometry violations.
• Using a pencil, trace the outline along the curved profile. We do this first, pressing lightly on the pencil so that we can make adjustments.

• Check the accuracy of the line, making changes if necessary, and make the final stroke a thicker line.

At this point the marking is completed and you can move on.

Frame assembly

The straight frame is the easiest to install, so let's start there.

• After all the markings have been made, you can accurately determine the height of the plywood blanks from which the frame is actually assembled. It is important to remember two points here: the lower edge of the plywood during installation should not reach the level of the box by 0.5 centimeters; The plywood should not rest against the ceiling.
• If you have the opportunity to do all the calculations in one day, then you can deliver the plywood to the site already sawn. Similar services are provided by large construction centers upon purchase, for example Leroy Merlin. If this is not possible, or the salespeople in stores in your city have their hair on end standing on end from such questions, then you will have to use a jigsaw and cut everything out yourself.

• When determining the width of plywood, it is worth considering many nuances, some of which we have already mentioned. The base ceiling very often has height differences at the joints of reinforced concrete slabs or has wiring running along it.
• Some of this can be taken into account immediately when sawing, making the height of the plywood different, but much of it is much more convenient to adjust, as they say, locally, for example, cutting off a corner of the plywood that rests on a hillock or making a recess for an electrical cable.

Let's start installation:

• We place a piece of plywood along the line on the ceiling.
• We apply a steel corner to the edge, setting it so that the next workpiece can be screwed to it. It must be remembered that the distance from the edge of the frame to the wall should be 3 centimeters, which is required for further installation of the wall profile and corners.
• Make a mark on the ceiling with a marker or pencil.

• Next, we drill into the ceiling and attach the corner to the dowel, screwing several screws into it at once for greater strength. Add a couple more dowels, drilling straight through the perforation.
• We add several corners to the fixed sheet in the center so that the step between them is 70-80 centimeters - given the current thickness of the plywood sheet, this is more than enough.
• We attach it to the corners with wood screws, simultaneously adjusting the position of the edge of the frame according to the markings and aligning it vertically, for which plastic linings of different thicknesses are made in the right places. The lower edge is adjusted according to the laser level, previously set half a centimeter above the original level.

At this stage, it is worth paying special attention to the evenness of the frame, since the appearance of the finished ceiling will entirely depend on this. If necessary, increase the number of corners - ideally, the front wall of the plywood should be flush with the vertical level.

Finally, check the reliability of the frame for loosening and strengthen the structure with all kinds of stops and braces.

Let's move on to analyzing the installation of the curved frame. As you remember, we wrote earlier that marking it requires an indentation of not 2, but 3 centimeters. Now you will understand why.

• To install a curved frame, it is best to use sheet foam plastic, which can be purchased at hardware stores, from the manufacturer, or from some stretch ceiling dealers. Its thickness is 8-10 millimeters - we choose it based on the steepness of the radius of the figure being performed (thin is less durable, but bends much better).

Advice! We do not recommend using MDF panels, plywood, hardboard, chipboard and other analogues for these purposes, since you will not save much on the cost of the structure, but the final strength will be much worse. Moreover, bending these materials is much more difficult.

• So, to make the bends and turns of the box as smooth as possible, we offer this method. Instead of metal corners, which sometimes only an experienced craftsman can set accurately, we will use a guide made of a metal PNP profile, which is usually used for.
• Why such difficulties, you ask? But after seeing the final result, it will become clear to you that we have simplified the task for ourselves, at the same time making the contours of the levels perfectly even, which is very difficult to achieve when working with corners.
• By the way, precisely because a plastic panel is attached to the guide, aligned along the drawn lines, and such an indentation was needed. As a result, we reach the required 2 centimeters.
• First, check the base for evenness. In the example from the photographs shown, the reinforced concrete floors had a strong slope to ensure normal water drainage from the roof during rains.

• First of all, we take the profile and cut its side edges in increments of 5-6 centimeters (the smaller, the more accurately it can be set). You can use metal scissors for cutting, but the work will go much faster with a grinder.
• Next, we attach it according to our markings, having first bent the lower edges down so as not to interfere with the work.

• Usually the installation is carried out directly to the concrete floor, but since we have already mentioned a significant slope, the craftsmen had to first level the plane using a simple structure made of plywood and timber of the required thickness.
• To prevent the profile from leading, we attach it step by step, starting from one side and moving to the opposite. In this case, the fixation step should not exceed 10 centimeters. This recommendation applies to a high-quality, rigid profile, for example, from the Knauf company. Try not to use thinner options, but if there is no way out, then increase the fastener pitch.
• We carefully ensure that the edge of the profile follows exactly the markings, since the evenness of the finished ceiling will depend on this. If somewhere it does not fit exactly, then you can knock it out with a hammer in this place and install an additional self-tapping screw.

• Next we cut the plastic. Pay special attention to the cutting accuracy, since this determines how accurately we will catch the level when attaching it. Use rigid aluminum profile guides and a sharp mounting knife for cutting.

• Then we begin to attach the plastic to the guide. This is done using metal screws in small increments, while you need to constantly align the bottom edge with the level that the same laser level will kindly draw for us. It is for this reason that two people need to do this work - one twists, the other holds, orienting along the line.
• The width of the plastic is subject to exactly the same requirements as those that we took into account when cutting plywood for a rectilinear structure.

Additionally, fasten the joints of the plastic sheets using a tire from the same profile.

Setting up a profile

We're done with the frame, let's move on to installing all the profiles.

• We start by installing the wall profile for the upper level - the markings are already ready. We fasten it along the already prepared holes in the baguette in increments of 12-15 centimeters using dowel screws.
• On a curved frame we use metal screws, but of a longer length (35 mm). If the profile is not securely fastened, due to its flimsiness, we reduce the fastening step by 2 times, while there is no need to drill it first.
• We monitor the level, and the work will be accurate.
• Next, we prepare the aluminum bumper - it is stronger and will not deform as a result of the tension of the canvas.

• Its lower edge is cut using a miter saw with a special blade for aluminum. The distance between cuts directly depends on the bend radius.

Attention! This work can also be done using a grinder, but due to the nature of the metal, burrs and burrs form on the sawn edges, which can ruin the blade, so these edges are polished with the same grinder. The process will take much longer, so if you are constantly installing multi-level ceilings, buy a trim tool, which will also be useful for other complex work.

• Next, we drill holes 4 mm in diameter on the remaining intact edge, through which we then attach the profile to the lower edge of our frame using self-tapping screws, not forgetting to check the level.

• When installing the bump stop, do not forget that the mouthpiece will be put on top, and this is another 1.5-2 millimeters in height.

Final work

The next stage will be the installation of the upper ceiling level.

We won’t go into too much detail about the process, since everything is very clear to any installer: we hang the canvas on clamps, heat it with a heat gun, fill the corners first, then the centers of the sides, and finally go through the remaining parts evenly, not forgetting to maintain the operating temperature of the ceiling at a given level (60ºС).

• Next, we proceed to install the universal profile, which will ensure the connection of the lower level to the already tensioned surface.

• Pay attention to the diagram above to see how the universal profile is located. Its installation site should fit snugly against the frame, while the top point should touch the stretch ceiling. This is the only way the joint will be tight and invisible.
• In this case, you should not allow it to be pressed too tightly to the upper level, as this can lead to deformations and, as a result, the formation of gaps between the insert and the ceiling.

• Before installation on curved sections, the profile is sawn through, similar to a bump stop, but since we are using plastic here, a grinder is enough.

• Next, we attach the profile under the ceiling according to the already indicated scheme. When approaching the wall, do not forget to leave a gap of 1 centimeter so that there is room for installing a corner from the profile.
• The next step is to make and install corners from a plastic wall profile.

• We cut the corners at 45 degrees using a miter saw or grinder, having previously made precise markings using a carpenter's square.
• Then we take super glue and glue the parts together - it’s simple.
• After gluing, do not forget to check the evenness of the corner with a square. Afterwards, the workpiece needs to be shortened, for which we put a piece of a mouthpiece near the wall and measure the distance from the tensioned level. We move it to a corner and cut off the excess.

• We process the sharp corners of our workpiece with sandpaper so as not to damage the film when tensioning.
• We drill mounting holes in it, and the part is ready for installation.

• We install the corners in place, accurately aligning the edges with the profiles and the bumper with the fitted lip. At the end, we additionally strengthen the structure with self-tapping screws so that it does not “walk” when stretched.

The next step is to install the lip along the entire length of the lower edge of the bump stop. For high-quality joints, it is recommended to process the edges of this part using a grinder. After this, we put it in place, tapping it with the handle of a spatula or something similar to ensure a tight connection.

Now all that remains is to glue all the joints and corners using reinforced tape. It is convenient to work with, as it is quite durable and elastic.

This measure will protect the film from contact with possible burrs. It is important to tuck the edges of the tape into the mounting grooves of the profile with a spatula so that it does not interfere during installation.

Stretch the fabric to the lower level

So, our structure is ready, all the mortgages are installed and the joints are taped. We begin to stretch the fabric.

If the ceiling is glossy, then do not forget to preheat it very well. We stop heating only when the canvas begins to tremble from the flow of hot air, like jelly.

This procedure is called glossing. If it is done with high quality, then in the end the ceiling will be much more beautiful (have a more pronounced shine), but do not forget that the quality of the canvas also affects this.

The tensioning procedure itself is not complicated. Everything is as usual, the main thing is that all corners are well processed.

After the canvas is installed, all that remains is to mount the decorative plug. We cut the corner joints at 45 degrees - if cracks are visible there, then coat them with white sealant or silicone.

That's all! The ceiling is ready and can be handed over to your favorite customer for acceptance. Installation of a two-level stretch ceiling video will help you understand the topic even better. We hope the material was informative and useful for you. Best wishes!

• What to pay attention to when installing a ceiling?

Currently, suspended ceilings are the most convenient, original and aesthetic type of decoration. Stretch ceilings are best suited for large rooms with high walls. A special fabric or vinyl film is used as the basis for such a ceiling.

It can have a glossy, matte or combined structure. you can install a two-level ceiling with your own hands without spending money on the services of third-party specialists. Properly arranged two-level stretch ceilings make it possible to hide defects and various communications, translate a wide variety of design ideas into reality and divide the room into separate zones.

Preparation for installation of a stretch ceiling

Before you get ready to install a suspended ceiling with your own hands, you need, as with any other construction and installation work, to plan everything carefully, carefully and in detail. First, the structure and design of the tension or suspension system is developed, a diagram is prepared, and the required amount of materials for the work is calculated. The layout of a suspended ceiling with two levels is shown in Fig. 1.

Figure 1. Layout diagram for a suspended ceiling with two levels.

After completing the two-level ceiling scheme, you need to think through and choose places for installing spotlights or chandeliers. You can see what the design diagram for installing a chandelier looks like in Fig. 2. Then all the required measurements are taken, and a drawing of a two-level ceiling is created indicating the measurements taken. The drawing indicates the installation locations of the guides and profiles that will make up the two-level ceiling. It also marks the places where the suspensions are attached, regardless of what type of structure will be mounted: tensioned or suspended.

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Marking should begin from the lowest corner of the room. Use a building level for this.

Figure 2. Design diagram for installing a chandelier.

Mark the installation locations for the guide profiles.

Two-level stretch ceilings are installed using the following tools:

1. Hammer - used to secure guide profiles.
2. Spatulas and spatulas for stretching and securing the fabric.
3. Screwdriver.
4. Stepladders are an indispensable item when working at heights.
5. A heat gun equipped with a gas cylinder will be used to heat and stretch the fabric.
6. Construction level - used when applying markings. The most convenient to use is a laser level.

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Step-by-step instructions for installing a two-level ceiling

Figure 3. First level installation diagram.

Before you start creating a ceiling with your own hands, carefully read the following diagrams. Figure 3 shows the installation diagram of the first level. In Fig. 4 you can see a diagram of the second ceiling level.

A two-level ceiling requires the installation of lighting fixtures, so you need to think about the wiring arrangement in advance. All wiring must be hidden in a special cable channel. It looks like a corrugated hose fixed to the ceiling.

Despite the fact that this ceiling has a two-level structure, you will need to find a common level. Determine the width of the baguette and mark the same distance from the original ceiling to the corner. Transfer the resulting mark to each corner of the perimeter. To do this, use a water or laser level. Stretch the paint cord between the marks and mark a reference line.

The second level should be made in the form of a circle in the center of the existing ceiling. Draw diagonals. The center of their intersection will be the desired circle. Screw a screw into the intersection point and pull a thin wire over it. The length of the wire should correspond to the radius of the intended circle. Screw a pencil onto the end of the wire and draw a circle. Make sure that the diameter of the circle is approximately 10-20 mm larger than the circle itself. This will allow you to more easily navigate the line during the installation process.

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The ceiling you create consists of two levels, and the circle allows you to understand how the transition from the upper level to the lower is carried out. The transition can be wavy or straight; this does not affect the order of work.

Figure 4. Diagram of the second ceiling level.

Once the control line around the perimeter is ready, you can begin attaching the profile to the wall, focusing on the line for the main level. The profile is secured with plastic dowels and screws. Use dowels with a diameter of 6 mm and screws with a diameter of 4-5 mm.

Install the profile around the entire perimeter, and then mount the circle in the center. Due to the fact that the ceiling is two-level, the circle should have a width that would coincide with the depth of the first level of the system. To attach the structure to the main ceiling, use the same screws and dowels as for fixing the wall molding. Before fixing the circle, make sure that the surface of the main ceiling is level. If the surface has deviations, you need to level it using sheets of drywall.

The ceiling you create has a circle in the middle. To prevent this space from seeming empty, you need to install a chandelier. The chandelier requires a console. This bracket is made of OSB or thick plywood combined with a strip suspension. You can use a ready-made mount. It is better not to install this device on boards, because... in this case, cracks may appear along the fibers.

The PVC film is attached to the baguettes using 2 bolts. It needs to be heated with a heat gun to about 70 degrees and secured to the profile. Using the same scheme, the second level vinyl film is installed in a previously installed circle. To hide gaps, use a special decorative film. Finally, all you have to do is install the chandelier on the console. At this point, the two-level stretch ceiling is ready.

An original way to decorate the interior of an apartment would be a two-level ceiling with a suspended or tensioned structure. This option is perfect for the living room and bedroom. The decorative design can be complemented by a unique lighting system, making the appearance of the room more refined.

Design features and advantages