It's blowing from the floor in the corner. Insulation of a wooden house and why there are drafts running down the legs of the house. Rules for working with polyurethane foam

During the operation of residential premises in apartments or houses, situations arise when spaces are formed between the wall and the floor different sizes and depth. There is a need to repair them, but not only because they spoil appearance living space, but also because this is a direct source of drafts, the penetration of dampness into the rooms, which brings with it hordes of insects, mold and mold.

Therefore, it is extremely important to immediately begin to eliminate it after identifying such a problem. Carrying out the work will not take much effort and time; it involves following several stages:

• Determining the size of the gap - length and depth;
• Based on the scale of future work, the material with which the hole will be sealed is selected.

To seal very small cracks (about 1 cm), you can use mortars of putty, mounting plaster or cement. Larger gaps (2-5 cm) must be filled polyurethane foam. If the damage is much larger (5 cm or more), then you need to resort to more serious work and use other materials. Below will be given serial technology eliminating gaps between the wall and the floor of any complexity.

Preparation for work

Sealing such cracks falls into the category cosmetic repairs. Preparation depends on what decorative elements your walls or floor are decorated with. If there is a baseboard, it must be removed, the wallpaper removed, the paint layer cleaned and removed, and the whitewash washed off. In the latter case, you need to let the wall dry completely. Remove all dust and dirt that may interfere with the quality fixation of the sealing materials.

If the installation takes place in a room where you do not plan to carry out complete renovation, then the wallpaper needs to be removed only partially, or try to carefully tear off the strip from the wall so that after finishing the work you can glue it back, returning the wall to its original appearance. All surfaces that may get dirt during the repair process must be protected with film, paper and secured securely - this will avoid additional costs when putting things in order. Such measures will protect the floor and walls from polyurethane foam, plaster and paint. Paper or newspaper should not be used if there will be a lot of water in the workplace - it is useless as a protective material in this case.

The goal is a large gap

To fill the hole ideal option there will be suitable sized pieces of brick, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam or plastic. If the parts are large, then they need to be broken or broken - small filling components guarantee that they will fit inside the hole as tightly as possible and thoroughly fill the cavity. Be careful that when filling the gap, you do not deform the existing hole or expand it.

These materials will help you save expensive mounting foam, which should be poured into the gap after the previous materials. Practice shows that using bricks or other fillers, only one container of polyurethane foam is required to restore even very large damage.

You should not fill it to capacity, because it tends to expand several times. Fill the remaining space by about a third, very severe cases- half. If the layer turns out to be very large, then apply it not at once, but in parts, allowing the previous layer to completely expand and harden. This will reduce the risk of overfilling and subsequent falling out of rags of foam, and as a result, will save its volume.

The target is a medium or small slit

The ideal option for filling such holes would be soft, plastic materials with high density - tow or construction felt. To prevent such materials from becoming a haven for insect pests, before filling they must be thoroughly impregnated with insecticidal substances, most often formaldehyde.

The material is rolled into small rolls, the diameter of which should be slightly larger size crack, and is applied to the crack. Next, using a small rubber or wooden hammer, the roll is carefully but confidently driven into the hollow space of the damage. It is advisable to fill the void with a single piece of material, without small parts, so that unnecessary cavities do not form between them.

If the gap is so small that you physically cannot drive tow in there, then a soft spatula and a plastic gypsum mortar will come to the rescue. The technology is simple - apply a strip of plaster to the tip of the spatula and apply it to the damage, then gently press. This will allow the mortar to fill the entire cavity and immediately finish the wall surface to minimize pre-finishing.

To protect the surrounding area from dirt, you can use self-adhesive construction fabric (which will not work if you already have wallpaper) or the above methods. After the gap is completely clogged, the formaldehyde dries - you can decorate the seam.

The gap between the baseboard and the wall or floor

It usually forms when old walls become warped or wooden baseboards dry out. Such an error can be corrected very simply - using acrylic sealant, modern stores provide a choice of any colors and shades. The cylinder is installed in a special device for supplying sealant and applied over the distance between the elements.

Rules for working with polyurethane foam

Two thirds of cases still require the active use of polyurethane foam, even in small quantities. Therefore, it is important to figure out how to use it correctly. The recommendations are:

• Before filling the cavity, its surface must be slightly moistened with ordinary water. To do this, it is advisable to use a mechanical spray bottle or a bottle with holes in the lid. This is done to better fix the foam inside the damage.
• When filling, be aware of the foam's ability to expand. In addition, moisturizing the surface will only enhance this effect. The foam must be applied carefully, carefully, little by little.
• Ideal conditions working with it - from five to twenty-five degrees Celsius. The cylinder must be heated in water at the appropriate temperature.
• Before use, the container with foam should be shaken thoroughly.
• Carry out work only with protective glasses and gloves - the foam is very caustic and firmly sticks to all things and objects. In case of accidental contact with finishing surfaces, it is recommended to remove foam only after completely dry, which has not yet hardened, is wiped with a special solvent.
• Hardened foam is removed with a sharp knife.

Finishing the wall after repairing the damage

Excess foam should be removed so that a small depression remains at the seam site. It will be filled with a small layer of putty or plaster using a spatula and brought to the same level as the wall. After the layer has dried mortar There won't be a trace left of the crack. The top of the wall can be finished in all sorts of ways - attaching a plinth, painting, adding wallpaper, finishing with tiles, plastic, wood, and so on.

Conclusion

It is advisable to detect such damage between the floor and walls and repair it before starting finishing works so as not to damage existing finishing surfaces during work. Thus, the work will be completed faster and at lower cost. If the sealing takes place in the finishing room, then precautions should not be neglected, especially when working with polyurethane foam.

Video

From the video you will learn in more detail how and with what to seal cracks.

Living in an apartment building panel house for at least five to ten years, the owners of the apartment are faced with the fact that for some reason the temperature in the room, albeit not significantly, decreases, drafts are felt, blowing from the sockets in the panel house, cold goes across the floor or is felt from the corners. Let's just say that unpleasant discomfort is only the beginning of the problems that can follow if active measures are not taken. What awaits you if you frivolously dismiss the solution to the problem? What should you do to eliminate the inconvenience for as long as possible?

What to do if it blows from a corner in a panel house?

The presence of drafts, the emergence of a situation where cold comes from the wall or blows from under the baseboard in a panel house - this is the first signal to begin active action! You shouldn’t wait for condensation to appear on the walls and it will start to freeze in winter, why wait for fungus to appear under the ceiling or in the corners, on the floor, why live in conditions high humidity feeling a constant smell of dampness?

There are very effective remedy combat all of the above problems - sealing interpanel seams. Competently and conscientiously completed work on sealing the seams between the panels on external walls These houses will allow you to forget for a long time about cold and dampness, drafts and fungus, and of course, colds, which are a consequence of disruption of the normal microclimate in your home.

Each apartment in a panel house has two horizontal, one or two vertical interpanel seams, which, if their integrity is violated, can be the start of your problems. The bottom seam has collapsed - it is blowing across the floor in a panel house. If the top one is damaged or spilled out, a wet spot forms under the ceiling, which over time begins to darken and becomes a place for fungus to appear. If the vertical seams have lost their quality, this means there will be a draft and a feeling of cold air moving from the corners.

If the process of destruction of interpanel seams has begun (and it, unfortunately, is inevitable, because nothing in the world exists forever), then it will be necessary, in order to avoid calling specialists several times, to repair everything interpanel seams located near your apartment.

Blowing from the walls of a panel house, how to insulate it?

If you feel that there is blowing from the seams in a panel house, then you personally would be better off not doing anything, but immediately calling specialists who can inspect the external walls of your apartment and the inter-panel seams in the most conscientious and safe manner. Looking out of the windows will help little, and without insurance you will definitely not be able to inspect and see defects, cracks, damaged areas in the seams! Workers utility companies They are also in no hurry to come to your aid, and not because they don’t want to. It’s just that houses built at the same time begin to require repairs at the same time.

There are several ways to seal seams. The person who will do the work will certainly tell you about them. Depending on the severity of the situation, your wishes and capabilities, the optimal one will be chosen, in each specific case, an option that will allow you to get results and guarantee its preservation for a significant period.

Sealing the seams will not only save you from drafts and dampness, but will also help you save money on heating your apartment due to energy savings.

To answer a specific question: “It’s blowing from the wall, what should I do?” we will give you the same specific answer - seal the interpanel seams. In 90% of cases, this will solve all problems and allow you to qualitatively improve your living conditions. Who to entrust the work to? Only professionals with extensive experience and necessary tolerances to dangerous high-altitude work!

We are able to work conscientiously at any height and are always responsible for the results obtained. Call us for a competent and non-binding consultation.

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In this article we will not talk about how to insulate baseboards: how much cotton wool, felt or foam plastic should be placed under them so that there is no blowing from under them, no cold, etc.

In this article we will talk about how to make a warm baseboard with your own hands. That is, to build a miniature and technically simple device that will allow you to maintain a constant temperature within 18-20°C on your glazed and insulated balcony.

General diagram of the device

Baseboard heater device

Although, of course, the people who build from generation to generation moonshine stills, it’s hardly necessary to explain how to do something similar, but it’s much simpler. To begin with, let’s just say that heating with a warm baseboard is carried out by two copper tubes, through which hot water flows. To enhance the effect, radiator fins made of brass sheets are placed on the tubes, and the entire structure is covered with three sides aluminum box.

Usually they try to fit a warm baseboard into dimensions: 16 cm in height, 6 cm in width, and in length - as much as the perimeter of the room allows. And they place it in the same place as the most ordinary baseboard: along the walls along the floor.

Why not on the ceiling?

The article will tell you not only what kind of device this is, but also about the laws of physics on which the action of a baseboard heater is based

Because the installation of a warm baseboard at the bottom of the walls is required by complex physical laws that describe convection air flow along vertical surfaces (that is, walls) so that these walls warm up during the process of the mentioned convection and themselves become sources of infrared (thermal) radiation.

Calculation of homemade warm baseboard

Installing a warm baseboard

The Internet is full of tricky formulas for calculating warm baseboards: how to calculate the diameter of the tube, how many radiator fins are needed, at what speed should water flow through the tubes so that the room temperature reaches the coveted 20°...

Don't bother yourself with these formulas. All the same, you will not find another suitable copper tube other than one with a diameter of 16 mm. If you find 20 mm, build yourself a monument not made by hands.

Steel and aluminum tubes are easier to find, but their thermal conductivity is lower than that of copper, and your warm baseboard will not heat up half as well. Otherwise it won’t heat up at all.

Warm baseboard with mesh radiator

It is equally difficult to find a brass sheet: preferably, according to GOST 931-90 thickness 2.5-3.5 mm

Aluminum sheet for the box is easier to find. As a last resort, you can adapt aluminum siding to assemble the box or cut out suitable parts from aluminum panels used for finishing billboards or light boxes.

Water will flow through the tube at the same speed as it flows in heating system your apartment - and no calculation will change anything.

Warm baseboard installation

1. Remember that your warm baseboard should warm the air along the wall, but not the wall itself! Therefore, edge the wall in those areas where the baseboard heater will be located with insulator: strips of thicker plywood or plasterboard. 2. It is important to correctly cut out the future radiator fins from a sheet of brass. In order for them not only to serve as emitters, but also to become load-bearing brackets, they must be made in the form of the letter “P”, to the crossbar of which you will screw the aluminum frame strips with self-tapping screws.

The lower part of the legs of this “P” must also be bent at a right angle outward: this way you will make platforms for attaching the brackets to the wall (more precisely, to the strip of plywood that you previously installed on the wall).

Thus, you receive the initial data for the pattern: plate height - 16 cm; the width is: 12 cm (two thicknesses of the plinth) + 3 cm (the width of the crossbar between the legs) + 6 cm (the total thickness of the two “bends” for attaching to the wall). Total – 21 cm.

Are there any other options for heating a balcony? will help you make a warm floor with water heating on your balcony yourself
Which heated floor for a balcony is better:? An analytical review on our website will help you solve this issue.
About the installation of electric heated floors on the balcony

Blank for a warm baseboard radiator fin

You have a plate of 16x21 cm. Draw the horizontal and vertical axes of symmetry on it - it is best to use a measuring compass needle for this.

Step back 4 cm up and down from the horizontal axis of symmetry and draw two more parallel lines.

Step back from vertical axis symmetry 4.5 cm to the right and left and draw two vertical lines. At the intersection points of these additional lines you will get the centers of the holes through which the pipes will pass. They need to be drilled out.

3. To drill holes for pipes, you need to take a drill 0.5 mm larger in diameter than the diameter of the tube you purchased. But it won’t be a big deal if the drill is 1mm or 2mm larger. 4. After drilling the holes, the brass plate must be bent in the form of a U-shaped profile with bends of the “legs” for fastening to the wall. For this it is also worth making markings.

Step back 3 cm from the sides of the plate and draw two vertical lines at this distance. You will use them to bend the bends to attach the radiator to the wall.

This is how you bend brass in a vice

Step back from the vertical axial line 1.5 cm to the right and left and also draw two parallel lines: they will mark the boundaries of the “crossbar” of the letter “P”.

5. Bending brass is as easy as shelling pears: clamp it in a vice so that the bend line coincides with the upper edge of the jaws of the vice, and, successively drumming with a hammer (preferably copper, not steel) along the bend line, bend the plate until its free edge will lie on the jaws of the vice. More right angle You won’t be able to provide it at home. 6. Now screw the radiator brackets with self-tapping screws or screws to the plywood (drywall) with which you edged the wall at the location of the baseboard heater. And insert into their holes what you have stored copper pipes. Your original baseboard heater is assembled.

Important! Drywall doesn't hold screws, screws, or any other fasteners we try to put into it well. Therefore, immediately, before installing the pipes, place a support under the brackets. For example, a rail of suitable thickness. Secure both tubes every 1.0-1.5 m with clamps using dowels, which should be driven into something more permanent than drywall: the wall of a house, a backfill in the lining of a balcony, etc.

7. How to loop a circuit and connect it to a source hot water?

Looping a contour

It's good to have fittings for this case. It’s good to be able to correctly make a cut into a pipe central heating. But, in principle, all this is the concern of the home plumber, and not the heating engineer.

In practice, it was possible to observe how heating systems for years they were fed through an ordinary corrugated hose, and even through a rubber hose put on the flared end of a copper tube and tightened with a clamp.

Using the same fittings and hoses that you used to connect your warm baseboard to the heating system, loop its circuit. That is, connect the “back ends” of the copper tubes with a corrugated hose or some other method so that water flows freely from one tube to the other. And from that - back to the central heating system.

Important! Do not be deluded by the thought that you will be able to bend a copper pipe at home with high quality. Theoretically, it should first be tightly filled with fine sand, the ends plugged and bent, twisting around steel column a certain radius. But in practice, it is not realistic to tightly fill a tube with a diameter of 16 mm and a length of 2 m with sand. And when you try to wrap yourself around her metal legs stools or something similar, you will either break the tube, or crush it so much that where it bends throughput will decrease and, sooner or later, cracks will appear in this place and the system will begin to leak. Therefore, loop the contour and outline the corners (if you are laying the system along the entire perimeter of the room) using hoses, and not by bending the pipe.

8. The thermal conductivity of aluminum is much worse than the thermal conductivity of copper. The aluminum casing in which you pack your “warm baseboard” is also a screen that drives warm air up along the wall. Therefore, it is worth leaving a 5-10 mm wide gap on the upper plane of the box, through which heated air will flow along the wall.

Installation of warm electric baseboard

Installation of an electric baseboard heater

Much more difficult than the water one. Although in the network instructions it seems as if it is enough to insert a heating element into a copper tube. But in fact, there are not so many people who could quite accurately pull this same heating element through a long pipe with a diameter of 16 mm.

But much more complex problems with insulation and waterproofing of the device. A balcony, even a glazed one, is a place of high humidity. Short circuit, sparking, fire are much more likely here than in an ordinary room.

Anyway, that's all threaded connections must be done using rubber gaskets, the radiator and copper pipes must not come into contact with the aluminum cladding, etc.

Therefore, it is better not to take risks and buy a brand-name electric baseboard heater. They're not that expensive. And in the event of an emergency, at least there will be someone to file a complaint against statement of claim on compensation for damages.

Installation of factory-made warm baseboards

Branded electric warm baseboard

It must be carried out strictly according to the attached instructions. Although general principles the devices of baseboard heaters are uniform, but the components are from different manufacturers differ from each other, and therefore installation and connection methods can vary greatly.

There is nothing wrong with these instructions. Many modern warm baseboards can simply be placed against the wall and connected to the electrical network.

Warm baseboard, photo gallery of do-it-yourself devices

Sample of homemade warm baseboard
Warm electric baseboard - do it yourself Connecting a baseboard heater to a heating system

Connecting a baseboard heater using a fitting connection
Warm electric baseboard This profile is suitable for warm baseboard radiators

Outlining corners using flexible tubes
Warm baseboard installation diagram Bending copper tubes using a vice

Galka, I didn’t find it funny at all either... when I was having a blast tobacco smoke into the room, it’s unclear from where... it seemed like it was blowing from somewhere below... and periodically it started to blow... Moreover, this room is a corner one. It was already the coldest in our apartment until double-glazed windows were installed there - internal and external - and the heating radiators were replaced with new, modern ones. Sasha closed the cracks and the blowing stopped. Now this room is as warm as the other rooms. Even radiators for the whole winter full power They were turned on only in January, when there were severe frosts. At home they are dressed like summer all winter, they have forgotten what warm slippers and warm home clothes are. Stopped catching a cold.
Galya, to check if it’s blowing, you need to bring it up wet hand To problem areas. It is likely that it is somewhere under your parquet. There is also a hole where the heating pipe passes.
Yes, we do everything little by little, as we have free time. There is nowhere to rush!))
And when you hire builders, it is not only expensive, but also not always of high quality. Of course, there are jobs where you need to contact construction companies. Installation of double-glazed windows, for example, or installation of an armored door. Sasha has practically mastered some construction and installation specialties. Yes, he could do a lot before. I laid tiles everywhere myself. I replaced the toilet, installed a sink, creating a complex with a countertop sink + touch plate with oven + kitchen furniture. We hob We also bought the oven separately. Sasha first installed a hob in the countertop, and then built a sensor oven underneath it, making a cabinet for it with drawers for various little things.
For many years, homes in our area often had their hot water cut off for days at a time. This was especially unpleasant in winter time. Residents went to the housing office to swear, and the boss told them that he personally did not heat the water. And payments to the communal apartment came from everything large sums. At night, even if there was hot water during the day, it disappeared after 12 due to the lack of circulation of water in the pipes. It took a long time to drain the water to finally get some warm water. I wrote a number of applications to different authorities in the country with copies, Sasha went around the house and collected the signatures of the residents. We sent everything by mail with notifications. Within a month, I began to receive explanations from authorities about what was going on. It turns out that someone built cooperative garages over the hot water pipes in our area, over some hot water distribution unit. Moreover, without permission from Kievenergo. That's how it was explained to me in the answer, anyway. And when, somewhere there, in the area of ​​the garages, the pipes rotted and began to leak, there was no way to get to them. I wrote again - to the Prime Minister and the Ministry of Energy, and again we collected all the signatures, attaching copies of the responses received. I received a reply. But we continued to regularly call Kievenergo, all the operators already knew us, they called hotline City Council and Ministry of Energy. And when our district was allocated funds to repair pipes (this was on the eve of the elections), they started, first of all, with us. They installed it for us new system circulation, installed new modern pipes, instead of the old metal ones, which constantly rusted. Everything around the houses had been dug up... dug up by excavators... soggy ground... mud... But then they also gave us new asphalt, made new ones pedestrian paths, and in our yard they installed a children's playground with swings and benches for parents.
But still, we decided to play it safe, and Sasha installed a 50-liter electric water heater in our home. When they carry out professional work on the water supply system in our area every year, turning off the hot water for about two weeks, we can calmly wash ourselves in the shower, and not run with kettles to the bathroom, as was the case before. Sasha connected the water heater to the hot water pipe system using copper pipes with a diameter of 8 mm. When you open a hot water tap, heated water flows out of the tap faster.

Galka, thank you for your comment! Good luck in everything! Have a nice weekend!