Drainage system for private territory. How to arrange drainage in clay soil Do-it-yourself site drainage on sandy soils

If you have received a building plot, studies of which have shown that groundwater lies very high to the ground surface, this does not mean that construction is canceled or hampered. You'll just have to increase construction estimate for the arrangement of drainage and stormwater systems that will remove melt, rain and groundwater from the foundation of the house, ensuring the dryness of the structure and the duration of its operation. Do-it-yourself site drainage clay soils more difficult, since clay does not absorb and allow water to pass through, but that is what the drainage system is for. On the other hand, clay soil keeps groundwater from penetrating into the upper layers of the soil from below, and you only have to protect the structure from moisture entering the soil from above - from rain and snow.

Purpose of drainage

It is recommended to arrange drainage for a site on clay soils immediately after acquiring land for construction or development, and the first step to ensuring the safety of your home is geological and geodetic surveys, on the basis of which the project is drawn up. But if you have at least the slightest experience in construction, such research can be carried out independently, relying on information from neighbors and on your own observations. It is necessary to dig a hole at least 1.5 meters deep (the average depth of soil freezing), and visually determine its composition from the section of the soil. Depending on the predominance of a particular type of soil, an individual drainage scheme is drawn up.

Water passing close to the ground surface is dangerous in spring and autumn, as it is fed by precipitation, which quickly replenishes underground rivers. How weaker soil, the faster the groundwater will be replenished by rain and meltwater. Therefore, the need for drainage of the area depends on the depth of location groundwater, and when the water level is 0.5 m below the base of the base, it is necessary to drain the water. Location depth drainage pipes– 0.25-0.3 meters below level groundwater.

Surface water (overwater) manifests itself if the site contains clay and loamy soil layers that practically do not allow water to pass through. In clay areas, immediately after rain, large puddles appear that do not sink into the soil for a long time, and this is the first sign of a large layer of clay in the soil. The remedy in this case is drainage and storm system, which will immediately drain rain or melt water from the surface of the site.

In order to completely protect the house from surface water, in addition to drainage and storm drainage, layer-by-layer backfilling of the base with clay soil is done, with each layer being compacted separately. A blind area wider than the backfill layer is also required.

Economical solutions and drainage options

What and how to drain a site on clay soil? These are, first of all, the following events:

1. Construction of a waterproofed blind area;
2. Arrangement storm sewer;
3. Digging upland ditches is a depression in the ground on the upland side of the site for the purpose of draining rain and melt water;
4. Protecting the foundation from moisture with waterproofing materials.

Drainage can be done general or local. The local drainage system is intended only for draining the basement and foundation; general drainage drains the entire area or its main part, which is at risk of waterlogging.

Existing site drainage schemes:

1. The ring circuit is a closed loop of pipes around a residential building or site. The pipes are laid 0.25-0.35 m below the groundwater level. The scheme is quite complex and expensive, so it is used in exceptional cases;
2. Wall drainage is used to drain the foundation walls, and is installed 1.5-2.5 m from the building. The depth of the pipes is 10 cm below the basement waterproofing level;
3. Systematic drainage includes an extensive network of canals to drain water;
4. A radial drainage scheme is a whole system of drainage pipes and drainage channels combined into one structure. It is mainly developed to protect the site from floods and flooding;
5. Formative drainage protects against high water, and is installed together with wall drainage to protect the slab base. This scheme consists of several layers of non-metallic materials plus a layer of waterproofing, on which a reinforced slab foundation is built.

Installation options for drainage systems

1. Closed type installation. Excess water goes into the drains and then into the storage tank;
2. Open installation. Drainage trapezoidal channels are not closed from above; gutters are installed in them to collect water. To prevent debris from getting into the gutters, they are covered with grates;
3. Backfill installation is used for drainage on soils containing loams and in areas with viscous clay. Drains are placed in trenches and backfilled.

Drainage pipes (drains) are metal or plastic pipes with perforations Ø 1.5-5 mm for the passage of water that accumulates in clay or other soil. To prevent the holes from becoming clogged with earth and debris, the pipes are wrapped with filter materials. Clay soils are the most difficult to filter, so in such areas the drains are wrapped in 3-4 layers of filters.

Drain diameter is up to 100-150 mm. At each turn there should be an inspection - a special well for collecting garbage and pumping out water. All collected water is sent to a common reservoir or a nearby reservoir.

Drainage pipes are sold ready-made, but they can easily be prepared for use in the system on your own, even from plastic bottles. So economical homemade system will easily withstand operation for 40-50 years. The pipes are extended simply: the neck of the next bottle is put on a bottle with the bottom cut off, and so on until the required length is obtained. In addition, a composite pipe made of bottles can be easily bent in any direction and at any angle. Just like industrial products, homemade pipes wrapped in several layers of filter materials. On sloping areas, pipes are laid with the same slope as the construction site surface.

There is also another way to use plastic bottles - they are placed in the ground tightly next to each other with the lids closed to form a closed drainage channel that will serve air cushion in a ditch. The bottom of the ditch is protected by a cushion of sand. It is recommended to make several such pipes lying next to each other. For the system to work, the bottles are covered with geotextile on all sides, and water will pass through the gaps between the bottles.

Also when self-production regular drains can be used sewer pipes made of plastic by making holes Ø 2-3 mm in them, or making slits 15-20 cm long using a grinder, which is much faster.

To ensure that the pipe does not lose its mechanical strength after cutting or drilling, a certain number of cuts must be made per 1 m2, or rather, they must be made at a distance of 30-50 cm from each other with a cut width of no more than 5 mm. If holes are drilled with a drill, then the distance between them should be at least 10 cm, the diameter of the holes should be no more than 5 mm. The main thing is not how to make holes or cuts, but that large pieces of soil, crushed stone or other backfill do not fall into the holes.

It is imperative to maintain the slope of the drains so that the water flows by gravity into the sump. The slope should be at least 2 mm per 1 meter of pipe, maximum 5 mm. If drains are installed locally and in a small area, then their slope is in the range of 1-3 cm per 1 linear meter.

Changing the slope angle is allowed if:

1. There is a need to drain a large volume of water without replacing pipes with products of larger diameter - the slope angle is increased;
2. To avoid backwater when installing drains below the groundwater level, the slope of the system is reduced.

The trench for the drains is dug with an approximate slope, which is specified and implemented with backfill river sand large faction. The layer of sand cushion is on average 50-100 mm, so that it can be distributed along the bottom to maintain the slope. Then the sand is moistened and compacted.

The sand cushion is covered with geotextile, which should also cover the walls of the trench. Crushed stone or gravel is laid on top in a layer of 150-300 mm (on loamy soils - up to 250 mm, on sand - up to 150 mm). The size of the crushed stone grains depends on the diameter of the holes in the drains, or vice versa - depending on the fraction of crushed stone used, the diameter of the holes is selected: for Ø 1.5 mm, crushed stone with a particle size of 6-8 mm is used, for holes with a larger diameter, larger crushed stone is used.

A drain is laid on the crushed stone, several layers of gravel or the same crushed stone are poured onto it, the backfill is compacted, and the edges of the geotextile are wrapped over the crushed stone with an overlap of 200-250 mm. To prevent the geotextile from unrolling, it is sprinkled with sand, in a layer of up to 30 cm. The last layer is the previously removed soil.

Installation of the drainage system begins from the lowest area, and a collector is immediately installed in the same area. This scheme works for any groundwater level. As water drains into the receiving tank, it can bring with it debris and dirt, which forms a clog, which is cleaned in this collector. To facilitate cleaning and remove blockages, side pits are made with a layer of crushed stone at the bottom.

How to drain a site on clay soil updated: February 26, 2018 by: zoomfund

The work of making this type of drainage is quite labor-intensive, because it is necessary to select a large amount of soil and then fill it with crushed stone and sand.

To properly make drainage around the house, you should start making it with markings. To do this, the perimeter is measured and a rope or construction lace is stretched along its edges. After that you can start to soil sampling. Since the insulated slab foundation is a shallowly buried structure, the depth of soil sampling should not exceed 0.5 meters. As a rule, it is only removed fertile layer soil. Further, to the bottom of the pit geotextiles are laid and wraps around its edges. After this, backfilling and compaction begin. sand cushion. Sand must be compacted using a mechanical vibrator. After a layer of sand, the pit is filled in, leveled and compacted. crushed stone.

Simultaneously with the laying of crushed stone, along the perimeter of the pit is laid drainage pipe in compliance with the required slope. Inspection wells necessary for servicing the system are installed at the corners of the future foundation. The slope of the drainage pipe must be at least two degrees.

The result should be that the drainage pipe is inside the crushed stone layer. If necessary, additional pipes can be laid in several more places, this will enhance the protection of the foundation from moisture.

A receiving well is installed at the outlet of the drainage system pipes. That's it for work with drainage system finished and you can start further work for the construction of the foundation.

Main mistakes when making drainage

In order to properly drain the foundation, you need to know the main mistakes made when installing it.

The most common mistake when constructing a drainage system, this combining it with gutters coming from the roof of the building. This cannot be done for the simple reason that autumn period, with a large amount of precipitation, the drainage system may not be able to cope with the removal of large amounts of water and begin to work in reverse mode.

This will certainly affect the soil moisture and it will turn out that all work on drainage and drainage of the site will be in vain.

Third is use of drainage pipes without additional filter winding, which also affects the timing of system clogging.

Conclusion

Self-production of a drainage system is beneficial only in the case of deep ring drainage, manufactured along the outer perimeter of an already finished one, since work on its implementation does not require the use of special equipment.
In the case of reservoir drainage, all work is much more complicated and requires certain skills from the master, as well as the availability special tools, such as a level and a vibrator.

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Nature does not always arrange everything the way we would like. Sometimes these can be significant problems, one of which is flooding of the land personal plot after melting snow, heavy rain, or it may be a geological feature of the area. There can only be one solution here - drain the site with your own hands, taking into account clay soils.

This is a labor-intensive task, but skillfully made calculations of such a system, taking into account all the features, will make it as efficient as possible and at minimal cost.

First you need to determine the type of soil on the site: if its permeability is high, then drainage may not be required. The situation is different with clay soil. It almost does not allow moisture to pass through, and therefore takes a very long time to dry. The discomfort is obvious - the site is like a swamp: it is impossible to walk, there is dirt everywhere, and there is nothing to think about gardening.

There are two types of drainage according to the method of construction: superficial and in-depth.

How to drain a clay area

1. Surface drainage

In this case, you will need to make shallow trenches, after which you will need to install special trays in them and cover them with mesh. At first glance, everything is simple. But here you need to know some design nuances. For small area you can do without serious calculations: just imagine the system in general outline. However, for large plots you will need a site plan to scale, with all buildings and details indicated.

We use a natural slope (possibly using a level) and begin to draw a plan on paper future system:

The main drainage system is the main canal. Its direction is across the entire area from the highest mark down to the water collection point. On a flat area, this direction is chosen arbitrarily.

Then we design additional drains and connect them all to the main canal (the pattern resembles a herringbone). We make the distance between each drain about 10 m.

It is possible to make a combined system with the arrangement of fast intermediate water collection points at the ends of each “branch” and at the beginning of the main canal.

The more difficult matter will be to decide where will he go water eventually. As an example this could be:

• a ditch on the side of the road near the adjacent road;
• underground water intake well with pump;
• artificial decorative swamp on the site;
• water tank for household needs.

A drainage system on the site will also be useful in future management. dacha farming: Using settled water to water plants is very good during dry periods.

2. Deep drainage

Here you need to dig trenches 1-1.3 m deep and up to 0.4 m wide. The following materials will be required for the arrangement:

• special pipes (drains) and trays;
• geotextiles;
• crushed stone;
• connecting elements.

And the tool:

• shovels (bayonet, shovel);
• wheelbarrows for removing soil and adding crushed stone;
• level for determining the level;
• saw for cutting pipes.

The scheme of buried drainage is the same as that of surface drainage. The only difference is that the drainage channels are buried and the area is made level.

After the ditches are filled with crushed stone, the geofabric, trays and pipes are laid, there is no need to rush to fill the entire structure with earth. Drainage needs to be tested. You need to wait for a rainstorm or do it artificially using a pump, hose and sufficient water pressure. If the threads pass through the entire system from start to finish correctly, then the test can be considered passed. If water stagnates in any places, then the system needs to be modified with additional channels.

Additional ditches adjacent to the main canal should be made in parallel at a distance of 4-6 m from each other. The denser the soil, the shorter the interval. A trench is dug perpendicularly from the lower end of the main canal to drain water to other additional points.

The slope in the in-depth system is made at least 1 cm deep per 1 m of length. Perhaps more, this will depend on the totality of additional stacks: the more there are, the greater the slope angle is needed for the lower channel so that drainage is more intense. The slope can be controlled more accurately using a building level.

Features of the clay area

Clay soils are heavy, dry out slowly, and are quite difficult to cultivate. There is not enough air in them. They are colder than other soils and plant growth is difficult on them. After precipitation, a crust forms. If soil is too heavy, plant roots cannot penetrate deeply. But not everything is so sad, there is positive side: Such soils are much richer than sandy soils.

All drainage features on such soils are interpreted, first of all, rational use water. In order to successfully engage in crop production on a site located on loamy soils, some additions are needed.

Before arranging drainage, the soil must be loosened and crushed stone, crushed brick, sand or fine gravel added. Lay the top layer with black soil. After sanding, the soil becomes suitable for processing. Now there will be no excess moisture at the level of plant roots. And the water that has reached deep into the impermeable clay will go into drainage channels.

Excess water on clayey area happens not only during spring floods, but also becomes relevant during summer thunderstorms. Even with light rain clay soil puddles form. Therefore, when draining summer cottage, you need to prepare storm drains in advance with large wells and collectors so that water does not accumulate, but passes freely even with a strong flow.

Which type of drainage is better?

Considering the complexity of arranging in-depth drainage, it is cheaper to make surface drainage. However, hidden gutters make the landscape of the site not only more beautiful, but also more practical.

• If you have to drive through the area with any kind of transport, then collisions with open channels will lead to the need for their alteration over time.
• Flat areas make it easier to do vegetable growing and gardening.
• Hidden drains will make it possible to build additional buildings in the future.

If such intentions are not expected in the future, then open drainage will not become a hindrance, and it can be decorated in an original style landscape design. Practical side is also obvious: such a system is easier to clean.

As you can see, both types of drainage are good in their own way. Preferences will depend on individual needs, aesthetic considerations and available funds.

The drainage system, if it is designed correctly and built with high quality, will serve regularly for many decades without any adjustments or repairs, and will provide complete comfort of life in country house. For more information on how to make site drainage with your own hands, we recommend watching the video.

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Features of clay soils

After purchasing a plot of land, it is recommended to determine its soil type. If there are chernozem or sandy soils in a given area, this greatly simplifies the task for avid gardeners and builders who are busy building a new house. But what if the soil on the site is clayey? In this case, the owner will face a lot of problems. And they will begin with the discomfort that sticky dirt causes, and will end with serious economic damage. So, first of all, the lawn located near the house will suffer. When the clay dries, it will turn into a hard crust and will be difficult to loosen. This will lead to the fact that the grass planted on the lawn will begin to wither and will certainly dry out. Well, if there comes a period of prolonged downpours, the lawn will turn into some kind of swamp. This will lead to rotting of the root system of the plants located on it.

“>This problem is even more aggravated if groundwater flows close to the surface of such soil. In this case, the clay retains its moisture almost constantly, drying out only on the hottest days of summer. Wet soil is dangerous and winter period. After all, it leads to freezing of the soil to a great depth, which contributes to the destruction of wet foundations and the destruction of berry gardens and gardens. Anyone who wants to protect their site from such problems should do the drainage of the site with their own hands on clay soils.

Preparatory work

Where should you start draining a site with your own hands on clay soils? First of all, you need to carefully examine the area. It is important to pay special attention to some important points:

• the quality and structure of the soil, that is, the presence and depth of clay layers;
• the presence of a source that increases the degree of moisture, which can be either groundwater or frequent precipitation;
• selecting the type of drainage system suitable for the existing conditions or taking comprehensive measures;
• preparation of a diagram or drainage plan, which reflects the order of location of the necessary trenches and wells (the diagram must indicate such parameters as the dimensions of all elements of the system, the depth of soil drainage, as well as the relative slope of the structure).

How to determine the quality and structure of the soil? To do this, it is enough to use a permeability test. It is very simple, and its implementation will not cause any particular difficulties. You just need to dig a small hole, approximately 60 cm deep, and then fill it with water. Result this test can be received only in a day. If during this time the water is completely absorbed into the soil, then there are no problems with its drainage on the site. You can safely use it economic activity and build a house without installing a drainage system. But if the water in the pit is retained at least partially, then in this case a system for removing moisture must certainly be built.

After the stage preliminary work will be completed, it is necessary to begin the specific actions that are necessary in order to drain the site with your own hands on clay soils. However, before implementing your plans, you should carefully study existing species similar systems. This will allow the project to be completed with maximum efficiency.

Types of water drainage systems

How to properly make drainage in an area with clay soil? To do this, you need to decide on its type. Such drainage systems are classified into surface, deep and reservoir. Sometimes, to increase the efficiency of water drainage from clayey areas, a complex method is used. It involves the simultaneous use of several drainage schemes. Let's look at each of them in more detail.

Surface drainage

This water drainage scheme involves making only small penetrations into the ground. Surface site drainage is usually used in areas with a slight natural slope. From an extensive network of such shallow channels, water is removed almost by gravity.

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How to properly make drainage on a site, if it is enough to do surface diagram? In such cases, trenches are laid along pedestrian paths, around lawns, along the perimeter of the foundations of buildings, near recreation areas, as well as in other similar places.

The surface drainage pattern of a site on clay soils in some cases consists of branched networks of drainage trays. In this case, moisture is removed through plastic or concrete gutters and collected in special wells designed for this purpose. Then the water can either be used for household purposes or taken to a disposal site.

Surface or open site drainage is the cheapest in the device.

Deep systems

How to drain a site on clay soil if a large volume of water is required? In such cases, it is necessary to construct a deep system. This is a network of trenches located at a considerable distance from the soil surface, in which drainage pipes are located that direct moisture to drainage wells.

The deep drainage of the site consists of several main canals. They are dug to a depth of 1.2 m. The width of such channels is 0.5 m. They are directed towards the catchment area. However, this is far from Full description scheme deep drainage clayey area. The main canals require the installation of a whole network of drainage trays that are auxiliary for their purpose. They can be replaced with small trenches. Such a scheme will allow collecting sediment water from the entire territory.

“>When arranging deep drainage, you must adhere to one important parameter. This is the permissible distance that is important to maintain between elements called drains. Under normal conditions, this parameter should not exceed eleven meters. But the exact value of the permissible distance is chosen depending on the depth of the trenches and the quality of the soil.

Compared to surface drainage, deep drainage is a more expensive structure. After all, to create it you will need to use special pipes and geotextile fabrics.

Reservoir systems

This type of drainage system is a type of deep drainage. All elements of the reservoir system are located at a considerable distance from the soil surface.

Such drainage is used when it is necessary to drain water that constantly accumulates around the foundation of a house or other structures located on the site.

How is reservoir drainage performed? For its construction, work is underway to develop an extensive network of ditches located below the level of the heel of the foundation along its base. A layer of crushed stone is laid at the bottom of the ditches. It is through them that water is drained into special perforated pipe channels located around the perimeter of the building. As you can see, such a scheme is quite complex. That is why its dimensions exceed the dimensions of the foundation itself.

Tools

What is needed in order to begin the immediate implementation of a plan to remove moisture from the site?

To do this you will need the following working tools:

• shovels for digging trenches;
• building level, which will be needed when forming the required angle of inclination;
• a manual device (wheelbarrow) on which materials will be delivered to the work site and earth will be removed;
• drilling and cutting tool necessary for processing and cutting plastic pipes;
• twine for marking the system.

Construction material

To install a drainage system in a clay area you will need:

• textile fabric, which will be used to filter water entering the drainage system;
• a certain amount of sand and crushed stone intended for the construction of a pillow;
• concrete or plastic channels that will provide surface drainage;
• a set of plastic perforated pipes, the diameter of which ranges from 100 to 110 mm, necessary for deep drainage;
• elements of finished drainage wells or their components;
• a set that includes connecting elements for pipes.

Organization of the surface system

Open drainage can be tray or backfill. But in both cases, such installation is carried out after marking the area for drainage and installing a water intake well in its lowest part. Next, trenches should be dug along the perimeter of the work site. Their slope should be approximately thirty degrees and directed towards the water intake. The drainage depth on the site is 50 cm. Trenches are dug with a width of 0.5 to 0.6 m and lead to a common ditch, which goes directly to the drainage basin.

Backfill drainage

With this type of drainage, fine sand is used after preliminary work has been done. It is laid out on the bottom of the trenches in a layer of 10 cm and carefully compacted. After this, the ditches are laid with geotextiles and filled 2/3 with large crushed stone and 1/3 with small crushed stone. The system is covered with turf at the top.

Tray drainage

When arranging it, a ten-centimeter layer of fine crushed stone is laid on the bottom of the dug trenches. Next, this material is poured with cement and immediately prepared pre-prepared plastic or concrete trays are installed, at the end of which sand traps are fixed.

This system is covered with high-strength decorative grilles.

Deep drainage system

If it is necessary to drain an area with a high groundwater level, then the algorithm for its organization will consist of the following actions:

1. First of all, you need to mark the area and choose the most suitable place to place the water intake. And only after this, ditches are dug at the working site, the depth of which is from 100 to 120 cm, and the width is 0.5 m. Drainage is carried out in an area with a slope of 30 degrees.
2. Fill the trenches, and then compact a layer of sand, the thickness of which is 10 cm.
3. Place pre-prepared geotextiles in the ditches so that the material covers their walls and extends onto the sides.
4. Pour a 15-centimeter layer of fine crushed stone onto the geofabric.
5. Lay plastic pipes on top of the crushed stone. They should be perforated down. Next, the pipes are connected with fittings and couplings. There should be inspection wells at the turns of the resulting drainage mains. They are installed above the ground.
6. After this, the pipes are covered with fine crushed stone and covered with the free edges of geotextile.
7. Next, the trenches are covered with sand and soil.
8. Drainage pipes must be directed to the water intake. Its function can be performed by any plastic container or a well dug with your own hands, fixed with reinforced concrete rings.

Optional equipment

For more efficient operation of the drainage system, special pumps, inspection wells and heating cables can be installed. What is their purpose?

Thus, drainage of an area with a high groundwater level will be greatly facilitated by a pump specially installed for this purpose. After all, if the water collection point is located below the place where moisture accumulates, its removal will be complicated. Forced movement of water will solve the problem.

The need for inspection wells arises when the drainage system becomes silted or clogged with foreign objects.

The use of heating cables will prevent freezing of the drainage system in winter.

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Features of the territory with a predominance of clay soil

Do-it-yourself site drainage on clay soils is usually necessary because such areas are characterized by excessive stagnation of water. At the same time, the roots of plants are constantly exposed to moisture, and air does not flow there in the required volume. This sooner or later becomes the cause of oxygen starvation, while cultivated plants They can no longer develop normally and eventually die. This phenomenon especially concerns lawns, which suffer not only from excess moisture, but also because the turf is quite dense, because it is not loosened even from time to time and is not plowed. This leads to the fact that the dense layer located on top prevents the plants from being fully saturated with air.

Do-it-yourself site drainage on clay soils should be arranged before you plant a lawn or various crops. You will be able to use the site immediately after it comes to an end. winter season, which is accompanied by the melting of snow cover.

What site parameters need to be taken into account when designing?

Before a drainage system is installed, as a rule, calculations are made and a design for the future system is drawn up. However, if you have to work with a territory whose area is not too large, then it is not at all necessary to make calculations during design. In this case, the main condition is the need to take into account the main parameters of the system for draining water from the territory. Among them, it is necessary to highlight all the data regarding drainage, namely: slope, depth, location according to plan, spacing between rows, installation inspection wells, as well as the wellhead part. Territory suburban area not in all cases flat, for this reason, if there is even a slight slope of the soil surface, then it should definitely be used.

Application of the terrain features of the territory

Do-it-yourself site drainage on clay soils must be arranged taking into account the slope of the soil surface. If we compare an inclined and flat area, it should be noted that the first one will be somewhat easier to work with. Moreover, in this case, when arranging the drainage system, labor costs will be reduced many times. In this case, it is necessary to carry out work in such a way that the closed and open drains successfully combined.

In the latter case, during the work process, ditches are used that have an open top. Such a system is also called surface. It will be most effective for draining excess water during the warm period of the year; it is at this time that a large amount of precipitation falls, which causes the groundwater level to rise. You cannot do without this type of drainage even in winter. In a number of latitudes, thaws are quite frequent in winter, which are accompanied by frozen soil that is not able to absorb water, and there is a need to drain liquid from the soil surface. In the cases described, it is absolutely necessary to arrange the drainage of the site with your own hands; how to do this should certainly interest you.

Description of open and closed types of drainage

If you decide to install an open type system, then you need to use a special tile; it has a slight slope, which will effectively remove excess moisture. Through such a system, liquid from the roofs of houses and asphalt areas will flow into a closed drainage system, which acts as a leading one. Closed drainage will work as follows: the liquid that comes from the surface of the soil will flow through underground communications, which are shaped and resemble pipes in appearance. Before starting work, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of clay soil, which has significant weight and high density. This indicates the need to loosen it before starting work. During the installation of drains, you will need to bypass areas that are intended for vehicles.

Installation of a closed drainage system

If you decide to arrange the drainage of the site with your own hands, you should definitely know how to do this. Before starting work, it is imperative to determine what type of water intake will be used in this system. Its role can be played, for example, by a natural reservoir; it is often used alternative solution, which involves discharging water into an artificially constructed ditch. It must be located near the road. But it may also happen that there are none, and the problem can be solved in several ways, each of them can be implemented independently. There are several options for arranging the outflow of fluid. You can arrange a pond on your own, making it in the form of a pond. However, there is no need to fear that it will end up resembling a small wetland. In addition, you can dig a ditch yourself. It must be made deep and located outside the borders own plot. If you decide to use the latter option, you must first agree on it with your neighbors.

Alternative drainage option

If you intend to do the drainage of the area with your own hands, you should definitely know how to make the system, otherwise it will not cope with its functions, the plants in the area will die, and the work will have to be done again. The third option for organizing water flow involves digging oversized wells. Their walls must be made vertical, and after filling, the water must be pumped out using a pump. Such manipulations will have to be performed from time to time. For units, the pumping mode can be made automatic.

Carrying out excavation work

Before draining garden plot with your own hands, you first have to dig trenches. They must be located along the perimeter of the suburban area. In this case, the trenches will have to be given such a depth and width that they should not be more than the indicators equal to 1.2 and 0.4 m. After the ditches are prepared, it is necessary to lay pipes in them that are intended to collect water. These ditches, by the way, are called main ditches. Pre-installed pipes must reach the water intake. In order to fill the main channels, it is preferable to use pipes with a diameter of 110 mm. The depth of the main pipelines, when compared with the collecting branches of the system, should be somewhat greater. Must be carried out according to the rules of work, when a site is being drained with its own hands, the advice and manual must be read before starting work. This is the only way to achieve the desired result.

Pipe laying

In your work, it is imperative to follow the rules that are prescribed in the regulatory and technical literature. They regulate the need to remove drainage pipelines from the fence. So, the step between the pipeline and the fence should be 0.5 m or more. It should be taken into account that the pipeline should also be removed from the blind area of ​​the main building, retreating 1 m from it during installation. The liquid will initially begin to collect in the drainage trenches, only then will it flow into the main channels. A whole network of trenches must be created on the territory, the depth and width of which must be 1.2 and 0.35 m, respectively.

The drainage of the area must have a certain slope; a master can easily make the diagram and device with his own hands. Thus, the trench network must be equipped with a slope of 5 cm per meter. The channels should not have long length. If you apply this rule, the drainage system will work properly. It is not recommended to make a less impressive slope, this is due to the fact that the speed of fluid flow will not be as intense as necessary, this will ultimately cause stagnation in a certain area. If you have to work in a clayey area, then the drains should be located at a distance of 10 m from each other.

Checking the system for functionality

The installation of a drainage system on clay soil after trenches have been dug and pipes have been laid in them does not imply immediate closure of the elements. First you need to check the drainage for functionality and effectiveness.

The trench network must remain open for some time. To be tested as the most good option heavy precipitation occurs. If such an opportunity does not present itself for a long time, then it is simply necessary to let water from the irrigation sludge into the trenches. In this case, you should monitor how quickly the water flow will pass through the system. Correct functioning is indicated by the absence of stagnation in all areas, this is the only way to check the drainage of the area with your own hands, the technology and rules must be known to the master, only then everything will work without stagnation. If there is a need, then at this stage it is necessary to adjust certain parameters, which will increase the flow rate.

Solving system functionality problems

If, when checking the system, it was discovered that it is not working efficiently enough, then pipes of a larger diameter can be installed; in addition, the slope can be increased. In some cases, craftsmen create a system that is equipped with a denser network. You can close the system if the drainage of the site is working correctly, features, how to drain the soil - all this is important to find out before the start of work.

The final stage

The system can be closed with geotextiles that can allow water to pass through. Instead, it is permissible to use volumetric filters that perform well when draining clay soils. The most practical for drainage work are plastic pipes with a diameter of 63 mm, the surface of which should be corrugated. The pipes must be connected using tees.

Cost of drainage arrangement

If you decide to drain the site with your own hands on clay soils, the price professional installation should definitely interest you. This may help you decide whether to carry out the work yourself or entrust the matter to professionals. So, if you decide to turn to specialists, then the cost linear meter surface drainage will cost 1,300 rubles. Whereas the same amount of work, but on deep drainage, will cost 2,400 rubles.

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Clay is a serious problem for gardeners

Excess moisture in the soil leads to oxygen starvation of plants. The roots do not receive the required amount of oxygen, which inevitably leads to the death of the greenery. This problem affects trees, shrubs and lawn grass. Without effective drainage, not a single plant will survive in a clay area; water will destroy everything.

Soil with excess moisture is an ideal incubator for all kinds of slugs and snails. And which gardener needs these pests that feed garden plantings? Plus, waterlogged soil is a direct threat to the foundation of the house. No waterproofing layer will save the foundation of a building under constant exposure to water.

Clay itself does not allow moisture to pass through, and if the site is also in a lowland, then a drainage system will have to be installed. Otherwise not only future harvest, but the owner of the house also risks drowning in the mud.

How to determine whether the soil is clay or not

It is possible to accurately assess the characteristics of the soil only after appropriate research, which should be carried out by a professional hydrogeologist. An option is possible when the clay does not protrude to the surface, but lies in a continuous layer at a shallow depth. The soil on top seems to be good, but literally after half a meter a clay layer begins, which does not want to drain moisture further into the soil.

Only the degree of permeability of the earth can be approximately determined. To do this, just dig a hole half a meter deep and pour water into it. If after a couple of days the recess turns out to be dry, then the area can do without additional drainage. Otherwise, it will definitely have to be drained.

Draining a clay area with your own hands

There are two main ways to make drainage in a clay area:

1. By using surface system drainage from trays.
2. Through deep drainage with the installation of perforated drain pipes.

The first option will allow you to divert only melted and rainwater. Only a buried system can cope with the moisture that is already in the soil.

Wells, trays and pipes can be made of concrete, asbestos cement or iron. But the most practical material is plastic. Nowadays you can purchase a whole set of various elements of a storm sewer system from cross-linked polyethylene; all that remains is to assemble them together.

Advice! Pipes, storm water inlets, wells and storm gutters are best purchased from cross-linked polyethylene. It tolerates frosts calmly and does not crack during frosts.

The choice of drainage type depends on:

• the owner’s financial capabilities;
• area and relief of the land plot;
• estimated precipitation volumes;
• soil structures at different depths.

In any case, you first need to prepare a design plan for the drainage system based on the area and purchase all the necessary building materials.

What is needed to build a water drainage system

To drain an area with clay soil, you will need the following tools:

1. Shovels for digging pits for wells and trenches for drains.
2. Garden wheelbarrow.
3. A hacksaw or jigsaw for cutting pipes.
4. Twine cord for marking.
5. Construction bubble level

You should also stock up in advance:

• fine gravel with sand;
• pipes with a diameter of 110 mm with perforation (you can take ordinary sewer pipes and drill holes in them);
• geotextile material for wrapping perforated pipelines;
• pipe fittings;
• gutters, sand traps and storm water inlets (plastic or concrete);
• factory-assembled well structures.

Installation of surface drainage

Open drainage on clay soil is the easiest to do. If the groundwater lies deep enough, then it is quite enough to drain the local area. In terms of labor costs and finances, this option is optimal.

A system of collecting and discharging water trays for surface drainage is laid with a slope from the house to the lowest point of the site, where a septic tank or infiltrator is installed. From the septic tank, the clarified liquid is discharged into a roadside ditch, a nearby reservoir or a street storm drain.

The main thing when planning a drainage system is to make maximum use of the terrain of the site. If it has a slope, then this is just an ideal case. It will be enough to dig ditches along this slope and lay trays in them at an angle to the lowest point.

Installation of surface drainage in a clay area is carried out in five stages:

1. Digging trenches according to the designed pattern up to half a meter deep.
2. Filling the bottom of the ditches with a sand and gravel cushion 15–20 cm thick.
3. Laying trays at a slope of 2–5 degrees to the water intake.
4. Covering storm gutters from leaves and debris with metal gratings.
5. Installation of an infiltrator with drainage into the soil below a layer of clay or storage tank with pump.

After completing all the work, all that remains is to check the functionality of the storm drain by running water into it from a hose.

Deep drainage device

A buried drainage system is formed from a main pipeline and perforated pipes connected to it. The main line can be made alone - in the middle of the site, then the drains are connected to it in a herringbone pattern. Or it is laid along the fence along the border of the estate, and all drainage pipes are connected to this perimeter.

To lay pipelines, you need trenches 35–40 cm wide and up to one and a half meters deep (depending on the groundwater level and the freezing point of the soil). At their bottom, a 15-centimeter cushion of sand and crushed stone is made and geotextiles are spread to protect the perforation from clogging.

Then another 10–20 cm of gravel is poured onto the geotextile substrate and drains are laid on it, which are then sprinkled with crushed stone and covered with geofabric on top. As a result, the drainage pipe with perforation should end up in gravel on all sides and wrapped around it with geotextile.

Important! Perforated pipes without geotextile wrapping on clay soils will quickly clog. Needle punching geofabric - required element deep drainage in a clayey area.

When arranging drainage in areas with clay buds, in addition to the usual non-woven fabric, you can use bulk shells made of coconut fiber to wrap the pipes. Drains with them are sold ready for installation.

Inspection and storage wells can be made from:

• bricks;
• reinforced concrete;
• plastic.

If the pipes for the drainage system are plastic, then it is also better to use all wells and septic tanks from a similar material. It’s easier to take care of them later and make repairs if necessary.

Video: drainage work in a difficult area

The combination of deep and surface drainage systems is guaranteed to drain even a wetland. Such drainage of clay soils has been tested over years of practice. Its installation is simple, and seasonal inspections and washings are sufficient as part of the maintenance. But it is better to entrust the design of the drainage system to an experienced specialist. There are many nuances and without specialized knowledge it is difficult to correctly calculate the laying depth, slope, and diameter of pipes.

Flooding of the area with melted or storm water– one of the most unpleasant seasonal phenomena for owners. Heavy and dense clay soils dry out especially poorly. Plants planted in such soil lag behind in development due to lack of oxygen. And buildings built on clay soil are regularly flooded in the spring and begin to collapse from high humidity.

Correct solution to the problem of removing excess moisture will help arranged system drainage, consisting of special ditches and drains. If the site has large area, it is necessary to produce preliminary calculations and determine the location of drainage trenches. In this case, the natural slopes of the landscape are taken into account, facilitating transportation. drainage water into a nearby reservoir or special well.

Clay soil

Experts advise first of all, after purchasing a plot, to determine the type of soil. The presence of sandy or chernozem soils greatly facilitates the task of new home builders or avid gardeners. But clay, as mentioned above, is the biggest enemy of plants and foundations residential buildings, and outbuildings.

Water on such soil lingers for a long time, thereby causing the owners of the site a lot of problems, ranging from discomfort (sticky dirt accompanies them literally on every square meter) to serious economic damage. If there is a lawn near the house, it will be the first to suffer - the dried clay becomes covered with a hard crust that is difficult to loosen. Because of this, the grass begins to wither and dry out. And during prolonged downpours it rots root system– the lawn turns into a swamp.