Design solution for the formwork of a country house. Do-it-yourself removable formwork for the foundation: how to make it? Metal tie rods

Construction of the foundation is a labor-intensive and expensive process, in individual construction The only way to save money is to do all the work (or its individual stages) on your own. In particular, this applies to the installation of formwork when pouring foundations belt type, at the right approach and studying video instructions, even a non-specialist can carry out its installation, fastening and removal. The material of the panels and supports can be any: plastic, metal, moisture-resistant plywood, boards. Wood is used most often for reasons of economy, ease of assembly and adjustment to the required dimensions.

On preparatory stage The foundation is marked and its perimeter is calculated. The formwork is placed on flat and compacted layers of drainage cushion made of sand and crushed stone. The panels and supports are assembled in advance; the gap between digging the trench and their installation should be minimal, otherwise the walls will begin to crumble and rain moisture will accumulate at the bottom. It is easy to calculate the required number of boards or plywood for formwork under a strip foundation; you just need to know its area. Up to 90% of supporting structures in private construction are made of wood; their thickness depends on the mass of concrete being poured and the purpose of the building. The minimum for timber is 50x50 mm, plywood - 10 (subject to its support), boards - from 22.

Construction technology step by step

Let's look at the standard instructions for building formwork with your own hands step by step ( more recommendations you will find in):

1. Drawing up a foundation diagram, selection and calculation of material.

2. Knocking down shields. The boards are sawn into pieces of the same size, attached to the timber with nails or self-tapping screws, with the heads facing inward. Deviations in level are inevitable (there are none except when using plywood), but it is important that they do not exceed 2-3 cm. Gaps and cracks are unacceptable: large ones are clogged with thin slats, small ones with tow. This stage is easy to carry out yourself; the help of another person is required only with limited lines.

3. Lowering and fastening the formwork panels together. The method of fixation depends on the type: removable ones are twisted from the outside, non-removable ones (made of polystyrene foam, fiberboard or other DSP) - whichever is more convenient. Special attention require angles.

4. Installation of spacers (wooden blocks or pieces plastic pipes for reusable formwork between panels with a length equal to the width strip foundation) and securing the structure from the outside with supports sawn at an angle of 45°, the second end of which is buried in the ground.

5. Checking strength and deviations from markings. Final fixation, adding sand to the lower section. Marking the line border of the upper edge of the base.

6. Flooring inside waterproofing film. This step is optional, but it is recommended to carry it out if there are gaps between the boards and for the convenience of removing the formwork. When working with panels made of plywood, plastic or metal, the inner surface should be lubricated with oil.

7. Pouring and spreading concrete inside the foundation formwork: layer by layer, but without significant breaks, compacting every 20 cm and leveling the top edge with a trowel. With correctly selected boards and reliable fixation, the structure does not bend under the weight of the solution and remains motionless when air is forced out. It is this condition that allows you to obtain a stable foundation.

8. Dismantling of formwork - depending on the brand and time of concrete hardening, but not earlier than 3 days. Private developers remove it after 70% hardening - that is, after 2 weeks. The main sign of the admissibility of such an operation is the appearance of a gap between concrete base and formwork. You should not carry out the work yourself, especially when removing large supports.

After this, they proceed to the next stage of constructing a strip foundation with their own hands: waterproofing, if necessary, insulation, backfilling with soil. A slightly different (simpler) step-by-step scheme of actions is observed when installing and operating permanent types of formwork, recommended for construction in areas with heavily frozen soils in winter. Structures with walls made of expanded polystyrene or DSP reduce the load on the foundation and give it stability. They are easy to assemble yourself, but unlike ordinary wooden ones, they remain in the ground (points 8 and 9 of the instructions given are skipped).

If the height of the strip foundation exceeds 2 m, it is recommended that the formwork panels be made from solid materials rather than knocked down from boards. In this case, square structures are considered the most durable; when installing too long ones, the requirements for the number and reliability of stops and internal struts increase. When laying a deep foundation, due to increasing costs, it is worth considering the option of renting formwork.

Contacting specialists (at a minimum, consultation) is required when conducting construction on loose soils. In addition to increasing the number of supports (with a standard step of 0.9-1 m), it is recommended to combine materials, for example, covering formwork boards from the inside with plywood. The opinion of professionals is also important when organizing vertical and lateral supports when the tape rises significantly above the zero mark; in some cases, the latter variety is even screwed to the walls. The standard maximum is 15 cm above the ground level; if it is exceeded, the formwork for the future foundation is supported from all sides.

When choosing internal waterproofing two factors are taken into account: the budget and the size of the filler fractions in the concrete. It is not recommended to use roofing material for these purposes; it is inferior in flexibility to polyethylene (especially in winter). Most often, the choice is made between thick film and moisture-resistant plywood; the second option is optimal when working with heavy coarse concrete.

Rules for uneven terrain

The above instructions assume laying a standard strip foundation; when working on a slope, the process becomes more complicated. In this case, the base is made stepped, at the lowest point the formwork is made higher, at the top the tape should rise above the ground. The bottom is required to be level under any conditions; by analogy, layers of sand and coarser filler are gradually filled in and compacted; it is recommended to fill in a layer of lean concrete.

This type of foundation on a slope will be appropriate when building a house made of heavy bricks (but with differences of more than 1 m, costs unreasonably increase; the height of the strip at the lowest point is not allowed to exceed four times its width); for light buildings, the pile-grillage type is considered a good alternative. The formwork for pouring a hanging grillage is distinguished by the presence of a bottom and additional supports (the weight of the concrete is directed towards it and not towards the ground).

Error Propagation

Technological violations when installing formwork for strip foundations include:

• Using uncut or different-sized boards. The correctness of the cement hydration process depends on the evenness of the inner surface and the absence of cracks. Serious deviations or gaps lead to leakage of the solution and hardening of the tape with uneven walls (more susceptible to the effects of groundwater later).
• Installation of formwork for the foundation from overdried wood (for similar reasons). IN in this case Preference is given to raw boards.
• Errors when choosing thickness and width. It is wrong to use plywood without support from the deck, or to knock down too thin boards.
• Removal of formwork ahead of time, rough dismantling (tearing off with force).
• Installing formwork on an uneven base.
• Lack of internal struts at the beginning of concreting. Exists important rule: all wooden elements are removed as the formwork is filled with concrete. Only reinforcing ties made of tin can be left inside the tape.

Ignoring the rules is fraught with bending of structures and excessive consumption of concrete, leakage, the formation of uneven walls and difficulties in further finishing the strip foundation. The involvement of specialists is required if concreting is necessary in winter, work is carried out on difficult soils, or installation time is limited.

Incorrectly assembled formwork from boards can be strengthened - just cover it from the inside with moisture-resistant plywood. If desired reuse support and panel structures; the removed panels are washed, leveled and dried.

The construction of a house, cottage, bathhouse, outbuilding, massive fence and other structures always begins with the construction of a foundation. It is the main support of the entire structure.

Types of foundations

The base of the building can be:

• tiled;
• stone;
• columnar;
• block;
• tape.

The most common and most reliable is a cast strip foundation, which can be used both for building a house and for a bathhouse, garage or fence. It is poured using formwork.

Concrete pouring device

Formwork is a structure of a certain shape that is used for pouring. It is needed to build a foundation above the surface of the earth. It is constructed from various materials, there are many options.

There are two main types of formwork:

• removable - intended for repeated use;
• non-removable - which are not removed after the concrete has hardened and remain inside the base, giving it additional heat, waterproofing and strengthening properties.

How to make foundation formwork correctly

When manufacturing any type of structure, the following requirements must be adhered to:

• it should be made only from high-quality materials;
• its frame must be strong, rigid, well fixed, so that the specified geometric shape does not change when pouring;
• all elements must be accurately aligned and adjusted to each other;
• removable formwork must be impregnated by special means, excluding adhesion to concrete, or the inside is lined with plastic film or roofing felt:
• the structure should be easily and quickly assembled and dismantled.

What factors are important to consider during construction?

When constructing formwork, in addition to the strength and reliability of the material of manufacture, it is important to consider external factors, affecting the work. These are the climate features in the area where construction will take place, seismic activity, and seasonality. Start construction of structures better in spring and end in the fall.

How to make formwork for the foundation, taking into account a very important factor - the accuracy of the design? During production it is necessary to use a water level. The smallest errors in calculations can lead to wall distortions and cracks.

The tree intended for the construction of formwork must be free of knots and have a smooth outer side. There should be no gaps or holes between the boards. All these factors affect the strength of the foundation, its processing and finishing.

The height of the formwork walls should be higher than the pouring height. This makes it possible to minimize production losses, because then the concrete will not spill outside the structure.

Materials used for manufacturing

Any builder should know how to make quality formwork for a foundation. Wood can be used to construct the structure. This material is durable and environmentally friendly. The most reliable is formwork made from hardwood, which have all the strength characteristics. In this case, it is necessary that the board be at least 40 mm thick. You should know that the wider it is, the greater the likelihood of cracks forming. If gaps of up to 3 mm are found between the boards, they must be moistened with water before installation. When the shields swell, the cracks will disappear. Fill gaps up to 10 mm with tow, and for holes larger than 10 mm use wooden slats. Dry materials should not be used to construct formwork. They will absorb water too quickly, which contributes to the loss of concrete strength.

In addition to boards, you can use plywood sheets. This is also a good option for the design. How to make formwork for a plywood foundation is a question that is often of interest to future home owners. You can build it yourself, since the construction does not require special technologies. Sticking to required sizes, plywood sheets are fastened together with steel corners using self-tapping screws. This design It is easily deformed, so it needs to be secured with ties, installing them every 55 cm, 25 cm from the top. For reliability, it should be reinforced with a metal frame.

The highest quality is formwork, the material for making the frame is aluminum or steel. She has high level durability, thanks to which it can be used repeatedly. The structure is easy to install and dismantle.

How to make formwork for the foundation of a polystyrene foam house? This modern material used for the construction of a permanent structure, which is integral part foundations of the house. Expanded polystyrene is convenient when constructing a contour, as it can have various shapes, retains heat well, resistant to moisture. Thanks to the qualities of this material, the foundation built from it has a flat surface and is protected from condensation and mold.

Preparatory work before construction

How to make formwork for the foundation, which is the foundation of the house? To do this, it is necessary to correctly install the structure. Since in most cases during the construction of individual residential buildings If removable wooden devices are used, then we give an example of how to make formwork for a foundation from boards.

Before production you must:

• prepare a place to install:
• clear the area of ​​all unnecessary things;
• remove from site upper layer soil;
• mark out the area for construction;
• excavate soil from a pit or trench to the appropriate depth indicated in the drawings.

The production of formwork begins with the preparation of the site where construction is planned. The area needs to be cleared and leveled. After clearing has been completed, you should begin marking the area. To do everything correctly, you should mark the area using wooden pegs and rope. Then you need to dig a trench for the future foundation. Its width should be slightly larger size future design. The bottom of the trench is covered with sand and crushed stone, leveling and compacting them.

Installation technology

After all preparatory work, the question arises of how to make formwork for the foundation. Construction begins with the manufacture of a shield, which should be above the concrete pouring line. The formwork must exactly match the contours of the future foundation of the building. To assemble the shield you need:

• prepare boards of the required size;
• fold the canvas to the desired height;
• boards with inside nail to vertically installed beams.

In this way, panels are made for the entire foundation. Then they need to be tied around the perimeter with a frame. Prepared beams with a cross section of 5x5 cm are attached with nails parallel to the manufactured canvas. To do this, you need to make lower and upper frame belts. The lower belt, which serves as a stop, is fixed from the ground at a distance of 10 cm. The upper one is intended for supports and is mounted 40 cm from the ground. Install supports every meter.

The entire structure must be installed perfectly accurately, without various deviations. Having completed all these stages of work, you can pour concrete into the prepared frame.

Basis for outbuildings

Owners of land plots for the construction of a house or dacha want to mark the boundaries of their property with good, beautiful fencing, but not everyone knows how to make formwork for the foundation of a fence. For production, you can use boards from coniferous species or sheets laminated plywood. Its height should be 30 cm from the surface of the earth.

How to make formwork for the foundation of a bathhouse? It's very simple. Manufacturing and installation are carried out using technology for strip bases. The height of the structure is 10 cm above the concrete laying level.

Making and installing formwork intended for any structure is not a very difficult process. The main thing is to adhere to the necessary rules and stages of work.

Formwork is a technological structure used to create a closed volume for the purpose of accepting liquid or bulk products and giving a certain form. In this article we will tell you how to properly make formwork around your house with your own hands, and provide photo and video instructions.

Kinds

By purpose:

• formwork for floors;

By design:

• from removable elements;
• non-removable.

Materials for production

Depending on the complexity and purpose of the formwork, the following are used for its manufacture:

1. Wood materials:
   • edged and unedged boards;
   • chipboard panels (chipboard);
   • plywood, in particular, the moisture-resistant version of OSB-3 (OSB, oriented strand board).
2. Metal products, such as aluminum alloys or steel.
3. Polymer parts, for example, fiber-reinforced polystyrene foam, which has become widespread in the manufacture of fixed types formwork.

Ready solutions

To perform wall formwork, the industry has launched the production of kits from which you can assemble in a fairly short time finished design. To choose the necessary formwork, you need to decide on a number of factors:

• number of storeys of a building;
• approximate weight of the superstructure above the foundation;
• dimensions of the building along the perimeter, availability internal partitions And additional elements, for example, a fireplace;
• removable or permanent formwork.

For buildings with a height of two floors or more, erected using brick and concrete, with an area of ​​200–300 m² on the first floor, it is advisable to think about removable metal formwork. An additional advantage of this solution is that it can be rented while the foundation is being built.

The use of a permanent structure will be justified if the following conditions are met:

• ground floor or basement will be periodically used by people, for example, as a home workshop, boiler room, laundry room;
• the building is being erected in places with a harsh winter climate - such a foundation will create additional protection from freezing of the lower part of the building structure;
• construction is limited by a time frame - in this case, savings are achieved due to the absence of the need to dismantle the formwork and speed up construction work above the foundation.

Simple view

One of the most simple designs- this is formwork made of wood materials. For example, for a simple strip foundation under outbuildings It is quite possible to use unedged boards with additional internal protection made of roofing felt.

It is better to use edged, edged boards or plywood for a residential building. Such materials make it possible to produce durable formwork with great precision. The upper edge can serve as a level for the concrete mixture to be laid. In addition, the design is quite simple to manufacture and does not take much time to assemble.

Materials and tools

Formwork for walls is assembled from ready-made panels, bars and reinforcement. You will need:

1. Edged board 25–50 mm thick, at least 3 meters long. Material belonging to the second grade will do just fine. Instead of boards, you can use plywood with a thickness of 12 mm.
2. Natural drying block with a cross-section of at least 30×30 mm.
3. Fittings. You can use a traditional corrugated steel rod with a diameter of 12 mm or more or use polymer products(glass fittings). The latter will allow you to save some money without losing the strength of the structure.
4. Tie wire, nails, screws.

Traditional set of tools:

• circular saw, wood saw;
• drill-driver with a set of accessories;
• hammer, hacksaw or scissors, wire cutters, pliers (pliers), screwdrivers, axe, knife;
• shovels, crowbar;
• building level, tape measure, cord for marking.

Device

Stages of work:

1. In preparation required material, tool.
2. Markings are made for the installation of future formwork - pegs are driven in at reference points, between which a cord is pulled.
3. Excavation in progress required volume soil, and the soil layer must be removed.
4. A cushion of sand and crushed stone is added.
5. In parallel with the work described above, you can, if you have free hands, assemble shields from boards or plywood. The latter, in case of small thickness, should be strengthened with several transverse bars. You can start knitting the main elements of the reinforcing belt.
6. Next, the formwork is assembled from ready-made panels, fastened together and fixed to the ground using vertically driven pegs. The reinforcement is being laid.
7. The final tying of the reinforcing belt into a single whole is carried out. The formwork elements are positioned and leveled.

Formwork for a building with dimensions of lower floor about 100 m², with a vertical foundation height of up to 1 meter, with pre-made calculations and prepared material, it can be assembled on your own in 3–5 days.

Formwork around the foundation of the house (blind area) – decorative coating, protecting the object from the destructive effects of moisture and low temperatures. It is installed at the final stages of construction upon completion of external finishing work. The choice of material and arrangement depends on the characteristics of the soil, the type of structure and climatic conditions.

Tasks

Having decided to pour formwork around the house, you solve several problems at once:

• additionally protect the object from moisture;
• improve decorative properties building;
• strengthen the thermal insulation of the foundation;
• prevent soil swelling.

The presence of a blind area prevents long-term contact of melt and rain water with the foundation. If the formwork for the house was installed in accordance with the technology, excess moisture will immediately go into the sewer. The additional coating also helps to improve the thermal insulation of the foundation. Among other things, this saves energy spent on heating. A well-installed blind area blocks the supply of oxygen, thereby preventing the life of plants, root system which can destroy the structure.

Materials

The question of how to properly make formwork around a house has many answers. The classic scheme involves laying in two layers - bedding and base covering. To form the first, sand and crushed stone or fine gravel are used. The main covering is made of paving stones, concrete, paving slabs or asphalt. More than two layers can be laid. Sometimes, before starting work, the ground is additionally treated with chemicals to ensure that all vegetation is destroyed.

A coating made of natural or decorative paving stones looks the most picturesque. This blind area can withstand temperature changes well. Rounded elements with a width of 5-20 cm, a length of 10-30 cm and a thickness of 6 cm are considered optimal for installation. concrete mixture- most inexpensive way. The structure is completely sealed. Such formwork around the house is made of concrete class B15 and higher. The recommended thickness is 10 cm for each layer. The advantages of paving slabs are simple installation and the ability to quickly replace damaged elements. Filling with asphalt is not used very often, so we will not dwell on it.

Process

Before you think about how to pour the formwork around the house, you need to prepare the soil. If there are plants on the surface, they should be removed (possibly using chemicals). Having carefully compacted the earth, they dig trenches and lay out litter - drainage. The thickness of this layer is determined by the amount of sand used to form the “cushion” and finishing coat. For example, the depth of the trench is 25 cm, of which 10 cm is allocated to sand and 7 cm to paving slabs. Through simple arithmetic calculations, we determine that the thickness of the drainage will be 8 cm.

Before making formwork around the house, you need to calculate parameters such as:

• slope (minimum 2%);
• the gap between the walls and the blind area (1-2 cm, which can be filled with sand or polystyrene foam);
• base height (from 30 to 50 cm);
• a distance from the edge of the roof canopy to redirect rain flows (from 60 cm).

When we're talking about about heaving soil, the pouring of formwork around the house should be carried out with insulation. To do this, sheets of extruded polystyrene foam or other suitable material are laid on the drainage.

Work order

Let's look at how to properly pour formwork around a house, using an example concrete blind area. Having completed all the preparatory ground work, install the formwork structure. Fill the bottom of the trench with a layer of sand and compact it thoroughly, adding a little water. Next, a layer of crushed stone or gravel is laid and reinforcement is carried out. For prevention metal mesh It is worth securing with clamps (wooden or plastic), placing them every 1.0–1.5 m in a checkerboard pattern.

The assembled formwork of the house is poured with concrete mixture, the surface is carefully smoothed with a suitable tool. After the concrete has set a little, it is recommended to sprinkle the coating with dry cement. This is the classic and simplest technology, but it has a certain disadvantage. Over time, concrete may begin to crack.

If you are interested in how to make formwork for a house, saving yourself from further hassle, use the following diagram. Cover the bottom of the trench with clay and place it on it roll waterproofing, fixing wooden planks. Pour sand and crushed stone on top and lay paving slabs. This design is more practical and looks great. If you do not have the desire and time to figure out how to make formwork for a blind area, contact the professionals. Our company’s specialists in Moscow will do everything quickly and with the highest quality.

A blind area must be built around any building, or rather along its perimeter. This coating protects the building from the destructive effects of melt and sediment waters, which can wash away the soil under the foundation of the house and lead to its subsidence, as well as destroy the foundation structures. This one is important protective element around the house is made of concrete or asphalt concrete. In order to complete the blind area, you need to build formwork. At first glance, this is not difficult to do, but there are some nuances that must be observed so that the blind area has the correct slope from the walls of the building. In our article we will tell you how to make formwork around the house.

Features and functions of the blind area

Externally, the blind area looks like an ordinary concrete or asphalt path, which is tightly adjacent to the walls of the building and encircles its perimeter. The width of this covering is standardized by SNiP and can be at least 1 m. It is worth remembering that the outer edge of the blind area must protrude beyond the roof overhang by at least 200-300 mm.

Important: installation of this protective coating is carried out after façade finishing work has been completed on the house.

The blind area performs several functions at once:

1. When snow melts or rain falls, precipitation can soak into the soil near the house and cause destruction foundation structures or basement flooding. Much more precipitation collects around the house, as it actively drains from the roof of the building and its walls.
2. Thanks to the blind area, the soil around the building does not freeze to such a great depth as in places open soil. Thanks to this, the basement or basement becomes warmer, which affects the temperature throughout the house.
3. In addition, frozen soil can also negatively impact foundation structures. This path near the building protects building construction from the forces of frost heaving, which can lead to movement of the foundation and cracking of the walls of the building.
4. The presence of a neat blind area around the house improves its aesthetic qualities.

The following materials can be used to make this coating:

• Concrete is most often used because it is the most available material, which you can prepare yourself. To pour concrete, you need to properly arrange the formwork. That is why in our article we will look at the intricacies of this process.
• You can also make a blind area from paving slabs.
• Around large public, multi-apartment residential buildings and shopping centers the blind area is made of asphalt.

Rules for formwork and blind areas

Before you get down to work and start making formwork near your house with your own hands, you should remember a few simple rules that will allow you to complete everything at the highest level:

1. If work will be carried out in hot weather, then the surface of the formwork and concrete (after pouring it) must be periodically moistened with water. Thanks to this, dried wood will not absorb moisture from the concrete, thereby reducing its strength. Wetting and covering concrete covering in the first few days after pouring will avoid too rapid and uneven evaporation of moisture, which can lead to cracking of the surface.
2. In order to correctly determine the width of the blind area, the slope, its depth and design, it is important to take into account the geological and climatic features construction areas. By following this rule, you will make a high-quality and durable blind area.
3. It is better to install this covering around the building before the onset of cold weather.
4. This protective concrete product should surround the entire house with a continuous strip. That is, there should be no gaps or areas of unprotected soil in the coating. Otherwise, through such uncoated gaps, water will easily seep into the ground and cause destruction of the foundation structures.
5. Between the blind area and base part At home, an expansion joint must be made, since these structural parts cannot be connected to each other. The width of the temperature gap is 2 cm. The seam must be sealed with sealant to prevent water from leaking into it.
6. The slope of the coating must be at least 10 ppm from the walls of the house, that is, 1 cm of slope per meter of width.

Necessary materials

• unedged or edged board;
• panel formwork can be made of particle boards (chipboards);
• Moisture-resistant plywood or oriented strand board (OSB) are also suitable for these purposes;
• some types of formwork that can withstand heavy loads are made of steel and aluminum alloys;
• permanent formwork is made of expanded polystyrene reinforced with fiber additives.

To form the blind area, unedged boards or plywood sawn in strips are suitable. Since poured concrete can slightly expand the formwork structures, as supports and load-bearing frame bars with a cross section of 30x30 are used, from which a durable structure is made.

Important: to make a protective coating around the house, removable formwork is usually used, which is dismantled after the concrete has hardened.

It is equally important to correctly determine the material for making the blind area. The covering can be made from compacted crushed stone, but in this case it is necessary to arrange a good drainage from the roof so that the flowing precipitation does not erode the fragile crushed stone covering.

A little better and more durable than crushed stone coverings will be a blind area made of cement mortar, laid on top of compacted crushed stone. This option provides better protection for the foundation of the house from destruction by melt and sediment waters. And it is this option for arranging the blind area that involves the implementation of formwork.

More expensive and quality option blind area devices - laying monolithic concrete slabs or reinforced slab products. But such materials cannot be used on heaving and clay soils, as well as at high groundwater level, since the structure can quickly deform.

If you are making a concrete blind area, you will need the following tools and materials for the job:

• crushed stone, sand and cement;
• polyurethane sealant for insulation expansion joints between the covering and the house;
• reinforcing mesh;
• nails, screws;
• roofing felt or plastic film;
• edged (unedged) boards or strips of plywood according to the height of the coating being poured;
• level, rule;
• spatula, bayonet shovel;
• container for mixing concrete.

Formwork technology

After you have decided on the material for making the blind area, calculated its width and the required slope, you can start working:

1. First of all, it is necessary to mark the future covering around the house. To do this, set the calculated distance away from the walls, hammer pegs in the corners and pull on a fishing line or cord.
2. After this, within the markings along the perimeter of the building, a fertile layer of soil 20 cm thick is removed. The soil at the bottom of the resulting depression is carefully leveled and compacted.
3. Now we begin to assemble the formwork. First, a frame is made from timber. To do this, bars are fixed at the corners of the depression in the soil with a height slightly higher than the thickness of the coating being made. Next, along the stretched fishing line, the same bars are installed in increments of 50-100 cm. For greater rigidity, the bars are fastened together with longitudinal bars. Wooden elements connected using nails or self-tapping screws.
4. After this, we attach an unedged or edged board so that the beam is with outside structure, that is, on the concrete pouring side there was a solid Smooth surface boards We fasten the boards to the frame with nails.

Attention: to prevent concrete from leaking between the boards, the gaps between adjacent elements should not be more than 0.3 cm.

1. To prevent the formwork structure from bursting and deforming after pouring the concrete, oblique struts are attached to the frame from the outside. The installation step of such spacers is 50 cm. We attach the spacers to the frame bars using self-tapping screws or nails.
2. To make it easier to remove the formwork after pouring and hardening of concrete, it inner surface can be covered with thick plastic film or one layer of roofing material. This material will also perform other additional functions:
   • will not allow moisture from the concrete to be absorbed into the formwork boards, thereby reducing the strength of the concrete coating;
   • if there are significant gaps between the formwork boards (especially when using unedged boards) the coating will prevent concrete from flowing into the cracks.

1. Along the walls of the house it is necessary to install an edged board with a thickness of 2 cm and a height slightly higher than the height of the covering in this place. There is no need to firmly fix the board, since after the concrete hardens it will be removed. Using this board we will create the necessary temperature gap between the coating and the walls of the house.

Execution of coverage

After the formwork has been assembled, you can begin to make a concrete covering around the house. In this case, adhere to the following sequence of actions:

1. First, a sand cushion 10 cm high is made. The sand layer is leveled, moistened with water and compacted.
2. After this, a layer of crushed stone 10-15 cm high is made. It is also carefully compacted. At the same time, you should not forget about the necessary slope of the blind area from the walls of the building, so already at the stage of making the crushed stone cushion, you can take care of creating a slope.
3. A reinforcing mesh is laid on top of the crushed stone.
4. Now you can start filling concrete mortar. You can use a factory mixture or prepare the composition yourself.

Important: in order for the coating to have sufficiently high strength and not crack over time, concrete must be poured at a time, without long breaks in work.

1. The solution being poured must be thick enough so that it can be laid in a thicker layer against the walls of the house, thereby creating the necessary slope. Correct filling is checked using a level. The surface is leveled according to the rule.
2. During the hardening process in the first days concrete surface moistened with water and covered with plastic film.
3. After removing the formwork and removing the boards that are laid along the walls of the house, the resulting temperature gap is filled with polyurethane sealant.