Cheap fence for your dacha with your own hands. Independent calculation and construction of a fence from corrugated sheets How to make a fence your own

If the time has come to change the fencing of the site, or there is a need to fence new territory, then the question immediately arises of how to install a fence with your own hands, without resorting to the help of various construction companies. This is especially true if the owner of the site is limited in funds.

Will it be possible to carry out this process independently? It all depends on the type of fence and the material from which it is planned to be built. But it’s immediately clear that in order to build a fence for a site made of brick, concrete or concrete slabs, it is necessary to do quite labor-intensive work, so at least one assistant will be needed.

What to consider?

Knowing all the advantages and disadvantages various types fencing, you will be able to assess your strengths and decide what material to build the fence from.

When choosing the type of fencing, you need to think about how the color and textured pattern of the fence will fit into the design of its entire site, if it is decorated in the same style.

Another criterion that needs to be taken into account is the openness and closedness of the fence, i.e. will it be solid or have a through pattern.

If you want to isolate yourself from the outside world so that your rest or work on the site is not disturbed by strangers, including neighbors, then it is better to install a continuous fence.

An area open to the gaze of passers-by is suitable for those owners who want to show everyone what kind of beautiful house or wonderful flower beds, as well as sociable people who cannot imagine their life in a space completely enclosed by a fence.

If the fence is being installed on a new site, and it is planned to build it from concrete, then it would be a good idea to check how deep the groundwater lies underground. Otherwise, there is a risk that in a couple of years the structure will sag and become distorted.

Another important point is the cost of materials. It is necessary to calculate it, having found out the prices in advance, having derived the total amount, another 15% is usually added to it. This is because, as a rule, it is impossible to provide for everything perfectly, and in the process of work you will definitely have to purchase any missing components.

So, first you need to familiarize yourself with the types of fences and the rules for their installation.

Concrete fence

A concrete fence can easily be called the most practical and reliable construction of all other types, but only if it is installed correctly.

A concrete fence is not just “boring” gray walls

This type of fencing has several types, since thanks to modern technologies and developments, in recent years fences have begun to be produced and installed, which in themselves are already decorative elements that decorate the territory of the site.

A variety of types, colors and textured patterns allows you to choose an option that will perfectly match the style of the already constructed house structure.

Positive qualities reinforced concrete fences quite a lot, so they are increasingly preferred to other fences. These advantages include:

• Durability and strength of the material in a properly installed structure.
• Any finishing material, be it decorative plaster or decorative tiles, fits perfectly on a flat concrete surface.
• If a monolithic fence is being erected, it can be raised to any height without gaps or joints.
• If you choose a fence consisting of individual narrow slabs, then its installation is carried out quite quickly - the entire structure can be erected literally in one day.
• Concrete construction is the most economical of all other permanent fences.

However, such fences, along with positive, also have negative aspects:

Concrete structures are quite heavy, so they cannot be installed on loose or granular soils, or they will require special reinforcement during installation.

Installation concrete fence- much more expensive than fences made of lumber or corrugated sheets.

When installing a fence consisting of separate sections, it is often impossible to do without special equipment for their lifting and installation, the call of which is also expensive.

If you are installing a monolithic concrete fence, then you will definitely need a concrete mixer, since you will need a very large amount of solution, which is simply impossible to make by hand.

For all concrete fences without exception, a reliable foundation is required.

From all that has been said, we can come to the conclusion that erecting a concrete fence is a rather troublesome and expensive undertaking, but such a structure will last for many decades without special care, so this choice can be considered very practical.

Foundation for concrete fencing

Since without a foundation for concrete structure there is no way around it, you need to know what kind of work will have to be done to arrange it.

A concrete fence is installed on, which is poured into next sequence:

• The first step is to mark the area for further trench digging.

When marking, it is taken into account that the width of the foundation strip should be 100 ÷ 150 mm greater than the thickness of the fence. The depth of the trench to be torn off should be 800 ÷ 1000 mm.

• Next, moistened sand is poured into the bottom of the trench, which must be thoroughly compacted. The layer of sand cushion should be 120 ÷ 150 mm compacted.
• A polyethylene film is laid over the sand, which will serve to protect the foundation from the effects of ground moisture. The film should come out of the trench by 500 ÷ 700 mm, since formwork will be erected further along the pit to raise the foundation above the soil surface by 200 ÷ 400 mm.
• A layer of gravel is poured onto the film - 100 ÷ 150 mm is enough.

• A reinforcement structure is installed on the gravel, which will add strength to the foundation.
• After marking the distance between the fence posts, pipes or a reinforcement truss are welded to the reinforcement - this will serve as a support for the further construction of the posts.

• Next, wooden formwork is placed along the trench. Polyethylene film, left inside it and later brought outward by the edges of the upper boards. The film will not allow concrete to leak into the cracks between the boards, and thus the moisture will not evaporate too quickly, and concrete mortar will evenly gain the required strength.

• The trench is then filled with concrete mortar made from gravel-sand mixture and cement, in a ratio of 3:1.
• If the fence will enclose a large area, then it is best to order concrete ready-made, since mixing such a large amount of mortar yourself is quite difficult, given that the foundation must be poured at once, completely from the bottom to the top of the formwork. Otherwise, unnecessary gaps may remain between the layers, and if water gets into them and the temperature drops, the foundation may be damaged.
• The surface of the poured concrete is leveled and left to harden and harden.
• Typically, intersection columns are made of brick, but they can also be made of concrete. To do this, a corresponding formwork from boards is built around the reinforcement structure or pipe, which is also filled with concrete.
• If the fence sections consist of several prefabricated elements, then special ones with side grooves are used for their installation, into which decorative plates are then inserted.

It should be noted that if this fence option is chosen, then it can be arranged by carefully marking the distance between the posts. However, after installation, the pillars must be tied together with a border. It is poured in the same way as with a strip foundation; it is also strengthened with reinforcement, but is buried only 200 ÷ 250 mm.

Types of concrete fences

Various types of concrete fences can be installed on a finished foundation. So, concrete fencing are divided into monolithic, block, prefabricated and typesetting types, as well as self-standing ones.

Stacked fences

Prefabricated fences consist of several sections, which are installed in turn into the grooves of already vertically aligned posts. Typically, fences of this type have several sections, the upper of which differs from the lower in that they are decorated with decorative elements in the form of balusters or relief designs.

Decorative stacked concrete fence with an “openwork” top section

Such fences are installed on strip foundations, which will lift them above the soil to the required height, or onto a columnar foundation with curbs installed between the pillars.

Prefabricated fence

The prefabricated fence consists of individual elements, from which sections of identical shape are assembled. The number of elements in each section can vary, usually from three to five - it depends on what height of the fence is required. Sometimes they purchase sections of different color range or having various relief patterns - this to some extent helps to make the fences more picturesque and less boring.

The foundation for a prefabricated fence can be either strip or columnar.

Block fences

This type of fence is made of concrete (foam concrete or aerated concrete) blocks, which have the shape of large bricks, and, accordingly, are laid according to the principle of brickwork. However, very often in construction they can additionally be used decorative elements, which are of the appropriate size and fit perfectly into the overall block structure.

Elements intended for the construction of columns, for example, are placed on support pillars embedded in the foundation.

All elements are laid using cement mortar, resulting in a durable structure.

Exactly the same as brick, block masonry requires special skill. It is not as easy as it seems to build a smooth wall from relatively small-sized elements. That's why , doing work must be kept on hand building level and control the verticality of the fence along a plumb line.

Often such a fence made from ordinary blocks will require decorative finishing plastering or tiling.

Such a fence will always cost more than a conventional sectional fence made of reinforced concrete, since in addition to the material itself, one must take into account the considerable cost of masonry work and final finishing.

Fencing made of monolithic slabs

Monolithic slabs are easy to install because the entire length of the fence can be installed on a prepared foundation in just one day. For the construction of pillars, elements that are designed for block type fences are often used. Can .

If ordinary smooth concrete slabs are used for fencing, then in order for the fence to acquire an aesthetic appearance, it is decorated decorative plaster in combination with artificial or natural stone.

You can purchase already decorated slabs, but they will be much more expensive. In addition, they may be damaged during transportation or unloading, which means they will have to be repaired later.

Self fence

This type of fencing is most often used for temporary installation on the territory of various objects under construction, since they do not require the construction of a foundation for them. Sections of such a fence are perfectly installed on a wide bottom part. Once the need for fencing has passed, the sections are dismantled, loaded onto transport and transported to the next facility.

In practice individual construction Despite the ease of installation, such fences are usually not used.

Brick fence

A brick fence has a very respectable appearance, and it looks especially harmonious if the house located on the site is also built of brick.

The process of erecting such a fence requires great experience in such work, just as it may seem to an amateur’s eye that bricklaying is a simple and accessible task for anyone. In fact, every master has his own secrets that allow him to make a fence neat and durable.

The foundation for such a fence is arranged in the same way as for a concrete fence, because in general the entire structure turns out to be quite massive.

Brick fences can be completely closed, or the masonry can be combined with other elements, for example, with gratings. In the latter case, the entire area will be visible, and the fence will only protect against unwanted guests entering the territory, but will not close the territory from prying eyes.

Brick fencing has its advantages, as well as disadvantages, which you need to know about before choosing this option.

Advantages of a brick fence:

1. A properly constructed brick fence is strong and durable and should last at least five to six decades without any problems. And if after this period a competent restoration is carried out, the fence will last the same amount of time.
2. Such fences have a very aesthetic, neat appearance.
3. A brick fence does not require special care in the form of painting or cleaning, which saves time and effort for site owners.

Disadvantages of brick fencing

1. The complexity and duration of construction, especially without the proper experience.
2. The price of materials is quite high and their delivery is difficult.
3. Such a fence requires the construction of a reliable continuous strip foundation.

To lay a fence, you need to purchase fireclay bricks - only in this case the fence will not require additional cladding. If using a regular building brick, the masonry will most often not be very beautiful, without clearly defined corners and edges. The laying must be done with jointing, carefully shaping the seams, otherwise the entire appearance of the fence will be ruined.

Laying process

In order for the fence to be strong and have a respectable appearance, the masonry must be carried out immediately along the entire length of the fence. And the work must be done consistently.

Fence walls can be laid in half a brick or in one brick.

Laying a fence “in brick”

• Before laying the walls, a thin strip is stretched between the pillars. rope, which is aligned horizontally. This will help make the rows of masonry perfectly even, since the first row sets the evenness of the rest of the masonry.

• The first step is to lay out the first three rows in columns.
• The columns are laid out around supports embedded in the foundation, which are pipes or reinforcing trusses.

• Then follows the laying of bricks in the walls of the fence to the same height. Further, it is necessary to take into account the necessary connection of the pillars with the walls laid out in the spans between the pillars. This is carried out using pieces of reinforcement, which are laid on top of the third row on columns and wall spans. Usually two pieces of reinforcement are laid on both sides of the pole. In this case, the laid out walls must have at least 500 ÷ 700 mm of reinforcement.

• You can also use reinforcing mesh for the bundle - it is laid in the same way as pieces of reinforcement.
• Mentioned connecting parts always laid (recessed) on a concrete solution previously applied to the surface.
• The reinforcement procedure is repeated every three rows.
• Starting from the seventh row, the laying of columns and walls is carried out simultaneously.
• You can carry out the connection in another way, when first all the columns are raised completely, and then the walls.

In this case, you will have to drill holes in the walls of the pillars to install reinforcing sections in them. Agree that this method is longer and more labor-intensive. In addition, when drilling, you can accidentally damage the integrity of the brick pillars.

• The easiest way to ensure that the masonry seams have the same thickness throughout their entire length is to use metal wire with a diameter of 8-10 mm, the rods of which are laid along the edges of the masonry walls on both sides. These elements can remain in the masonry, but then a large amount of wire will be needed. It is better to remove them after the solution has set and continue to use them in the same way. The photo clearly shows the segments that fix the thickness of the seams.

So, for example, you can prepare ten segments of the required length, which will be equal to the length of the span between the pillars.

Then five rows are laid using wire. After this, the wire is carefully pulled out from the lowest seam and used in the sixth row (by this time the mortar in the masonry should have set and no subsidence will follow). So gradually the segments are transferred from below to the upper rows.

After raising 4 ÷ 5 rows of masonry, while the mortar has not yet set strongly, after pulling out the metal rods, it is recommended to immediately do decorative jointing. If necessary, mortar is added to the seams, and excess concrete that gets on brick wall, is immediately deleted.

Processing seams with “joint jointing”

• To ensure that the fence remains in its original form as long as possible, after the concrete has dried and gained the necessary strength, the brick surface, cleared of dirt and dust, is covered with waterproofing impregnation. It penetrates deep and protects it from moisture, giving the material pronounced hydrophobic qualities.

The surface is covered with a roller, and after drying it becomes visually invisible. When it rains, drops of water will immediately flow down the wall without being absorbed into the brick or seams.

You should not take on the job of building a brick fence yourself if you have no experience in laying bricks. You will never get a perfectly beautiful and even wall the first time. It is better to trust an experienced mason who has erected similar fences more than once - he will do his job much better and faster than a beginner.

Prices for construction and facing bricks

Construction and facing bricks

Video - Laying a red brick fence

Wooden fences

Having prepared all the elements and tools, you can proceed to the process of erecting the fence. Installation work is carried out in stages:

1. As with the construction of any fence, the territory is first marked. Along the marked location line support pillars.
2. Installation of pillars can be done in two ways:

- Driving into the ground. When choosing this method of installing supports, the pipe must be driven to a depth of at least 1 ÷ 1.20 m;

— . In this case, the pillars can be installed at a shallower depth - usually ⅓ of the pillar height is enough, which will remain above the soil surface. With this technology, before installing the pillars, it will be necessary to drill holes with a diameter exceeding the diameter tr pipe 3 ÷ 4 times. A sand cushion is poured onto the bottom of the pit, which must be well compacted, and in the compacted state its thickness should be at least 100 ÷ 120 mm.

At the bottom of the column, in two or three places, pieces of reinforcement are welded perpendicularly, protruding beyond the boundaries of the column in both directions by 70 ÷ 80 mm.

After the post is installed in the hole, a rough concrete solution with crushed stone.

Then the column is set strictly vertically and fixed with stones, which are tightly installed in the concrete solution, in the space between the column and the ground.

Having installed all the pillars in this way, they are left to set for several days.

• Next, on installed poles The crossbars are welded. They also need to be installed level, aligned to the ideal horizontal.
• The next stage is the installation of corrugated sheeting. Sheets can be secured to the joists using rivets or self-tapping screws, which are matched by color. In any case, you will have to drill holes in the sheet and the welded crossbar for fastening elements.

Special “roofing” screws for fastening corrugated sheets

• Fastenings are made into the lower part of the corrugated sheet wave, at a distance from each other of approximately 500 mm.

Installation of the fence goes quite quickly, especially if there is a skilled assistant nearby. It is quite possible to cope with this work even in one day, of course, with the support pillars already installed.

Find out by studying the step-by-step instructions for a home craftsman in our article.

Prices for popular types of corrugated sheets

Corrugated sheet

Video: self-installation of a fence from corrugated sheets

Other types of fences

In addition to those mentioned, ready-made fence sections are installed from galvanized metal rods, which have a protective PVC coating. This fencing option is installed in the same way as corrugated sheeting - on support posts, however, there are models that have their own special stands. Fences with stands do not require installation of posts - just prepare flat surface, covered with fine crushed stone. The frames of such fences are fastened together.

The fencing sections have sharp upper edges, therefore, despite the external lightness of the structure and her not too high, it is not so easy to overcome such a fence.

This type of fencing is quite durable and should last 25-30 years.

Another option for a “budget” fence is one stretched on installed metal posts, connected to each other with metal rods for rigidity. It is better to install the chain-link with helpers, since the mesh requires stretching and immediate fastening.

For its installation, posts are used that have special welded hooks, which, immediately after putting the mesh on them, are nailed to the support post.

Such a fence is usually installed on summer cottages or on the border between adjacent territories.

Video - The simplest fence from mesh

When planning to install a fence yourself, you need to first evaluate own strength, skill and financial capabilities. You should not take on complex work, such as fixing bricks, without experience and sufficient knowledge. Effort, time and money may be wasted, and an ineptly erected fence will have to be dismantled and another fence installed.

Making and installing a wooden fence with your own hands allows you not only to save effort and money, but also to logically complete the design ensemble of the site. As a result, here, under the reliable protection of an attractive and durable fence, an atmosphere of genuine home peace, warmth and comfort will immediately settle. But the construction of a fence made of wood - a very capricious material - requires thorough preparation. And it’s best to start with a fascinating acquaintance with the variety of constructive and design solutions. After all, making a choice will not be difficult at all.

Wood in the construction of fences: advantages and disadvantages

Wood is an inexpensive and convenient material for technical processing and decoration, which is traditionally used in the construction of fences for private areas.

Despite the availability of more durable and practical material solutions - European picket fences, metal, corrugated sheets, brick or stone - the demand for wooden fencing will always be high.

The reason for this is the list of advantages of wood, which includes:

• environmental friendliness;
• unique decorative qualities;
• wide selection of textures and shades of wood species;
• ease of processing;
• ease of installation;
• easy replacement of structural elements of the fence during operation;
• low cost.

Wood - environmentally friendly natural material, which combines perfectly with other building materials and can harmoniously fit into any decision on the design of a fenced area. To build a wooden fence, one or maximum two pairs of working hands are enough and no special knowledge, skills or tools are required. It is noteworthy that wooden fences are much cheaper than brick or metal ones, and their construction takes much less effort and time. And most importantly: a wide variety of wood species, as well as construction and decoration methods, open up the widest scope for design ideas not only during construction, but also directly during the operation of the fence.

Along with its advantages, wood has a number of disadvantages, which must be taken into account when choosing this material.

The disadvantages of wooden fences include:

1. Fire hazard.
2. Low resistance to climatic factors.
3. Attractive to pests.
4. Susceptibility to rotting.
5. Short service life (about 10 years).

To partially compensate for these shortcomings, wood used in construction must be treated with a fire retardant, antiseptic and pest repellent. In addition, the material must be reliably protected from moisture, dampness and sudden temperature changes. All this entails additional costs of money and time both at the construction stage and during the operation of the fence.

Good to know: In practice, various methods are used to increase the service life of wooden fences. So, in order to prevent the support posts (if they are made of wood) and the picket fence from getting wet and rotting, their upper ends are closed with plugs made of plastic or other suitable material. For the same purpose, the lower edge of the fence is placed at a height of at least 15 cm from the soil level. Finally, during the operation of the fence, it is necessary to regularly mow the grass growing nearby, not forgetting to carefully monitor the condition of the transverse joists and the points of their attachment to the supports.

Diversity, types

Thus, the construction of a fence can be carried out for the purpose of:

• marking the boundaries of the territory;
• ensuring privacy (protecting what is happening inside the perimeter from prying eyes and ears);
• protection against unauthorized entry;
• reducing the intensity of external noise or wind load;
• fencing potentially dangerous areas (roads, cliffs along the banks of rivers and reservoirs, steep slopes, etc.);
• decorative design of the site.

In accordance with the purpose of the fence, its design is selected, which can be:

1. Deaf.
2. Lattice (with gaps).
3. Combined.

When choosing the type of fencing structure, you should not forget about its design. The fence must fit into the existing landscape and harmoniously combine with the design of objects located in the fenced area.

Most wide application received the following design options for wooden fences:

• "classic";

It is a simple solid or ventilated structure with metal or wooden supports installed by butting or on concrete, crossbars made of wooden beams and sheathing made of standard edged boards.

• picket fence (vertical or horizontal);

The cladding for such a fence is a picket fence - a thin strip with a straight or beveled upper end. Sheathing can be installed both vertically and horizontally with or without clearance.

• lattice;

The cladding of a lattice fence consists of equally wide slats (slats) installed crosswise vertically, horizontally or at an angle of 45 degrees. The slats are mounted with a gap or closely at the same distance from each other or in groups, which allows you to create a decorative pattern of the fence fabric.

• “chess” (deaf or clear);

A complicated version of a picket fence with a blind or ventilated cladding arrangement in a checkerboard pattern on both sides of the fence. Elements of checkerboard cladding are installed with a slight offset in a vertical, horizontal position or diagonally across the canvas.

• ladder (herringbone);

The cladding elements of such a fence are mounted with clearance or overlap at a certain angle along the longitudinal axis (vertically or horizontally). The rotation of the fence boards is ensured using calibrated spacers.

• network;

The fabric of a wicker fence consists of thin slats or vine branches entwining vertical or horizontal edges load-bearing frame. Braided fabric is quite difficult to manufacture, but provides high resistance to force and has bright decorative qualities.

• palisade;

The palisade fence is a solid canvas made of logs with ends pointed upward. Such fences are difficult to overcome and, moreover, to break; moreover, they provide complete privacy of the area inside the perimeter of the fence, as well as excellent sound and wind insulation.

• log paving;

A log fence is assembled from tightly fitting horizontal logs. The latter can be solid or sawn along the longitudinal axis. Log paving represents a serious barrier for intruders and provides reliable concealment of what is happening inside the fence perimeter from prying eyes and ears.

• "ranch";

Fencing open type, the web of which consists of several crossbars, additionally fastened with lags located diagonally. Ranch fences serve to mark boundaries private territory or protection from the penetration of large animals, although they can also perform decorative functions.

• "cross".

The supports of such a fence, installed in most cases on a separate or strip concrete base, are equipped with side grooves into which longitudinal cladding elements are inserted - fence boards or beams of appropriate thickness. Another version of the cross-style fence has horizontal cladding, which is mounted on vertical crossbars resting on support pillars and a concrete foundation.

This is not the entire classification. Thus, fences of the “vertical picket fence” group are found in such varieties as:

• solid palisade;
• palisade with gaps;
• cat or dog ears;
• private;
• peak;
• concave or convex, etc.

Good to know: In practice, combinations of different types of structures are often used, which gives the fence an original appearance, and in some cases, additional resistance to force.

Original designs in the photo: decorating a cottage or private home

Wooden fence along the road Deaf wooden fence with functions of protection and ensuring privacy of the territory Wooden fence with combined cladding Fence made of decorative vertical picket fence Concave vertical picket fence Solid fence made of horizontal picket fence Horizontal log fence in a combined style Rounded wooden picket fence as part of a convex wooden fence Cross-style fence with brick support posts Ranch-style fence for enclosing a summer cottage Wooden fence with horizontal log sheathing Wooden fence in the “solid picket fence” style Wooden fence with wicker structure

Preparation for construction

The construction of a wooden fence, like any other object, begins with design. To solve this problem, you will need a cadastral plan of the fenced area, where the perimeter of the latter is indicated. If you don’t have a plan at hand, you will have to carry out the measurements yourself.

The perimeter value is the basis for further design, so it must be calculated with maximum accuracy. The obtained data should be transferred to a pre-drawn scale diagram of the site. In the future, this will facilitate the task of calculating the size and number of sections of the fence, as well as creating a working sketch of the latter.

Territory marking

To mark the area for future fence you will need wooden or metal pegs about 60 cm long, twine (or linen rope) and a hammer. The first step is to set the corner marks by driving pegs into the ground.

The next step is to determine the location of the gate and entrance gate. As a rule, they are placed together. Standard width the gate size is 1–1.5 m, and the gate size is accepted in the range of 2–2.5 m, but in practice it all depends on the needs of the owner of the site.

Please note: When marking the territory, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the supports, and if they are planned to be installed on a foundation, then its width. To do this, you need to use 2 rows of marks - along the outer and inner edges of the support columns or foundation.

Upon completion of the design surveys, the results obtained should be transferred to the plan of the fenced area. This will allow you to see the big picture and quickly eliminate mistakes made during planning.

What materials to choose?

The next step after developing the basic plan is the selection and calculation of materials for building the fence. To do this you need:

• decide what material the support pillars will be made of;
• accept the method of mounting supports;
• calculate the main parameters of the fence (number of supports, section sizes and number of transverse logs);
• determine the material from which the casing will be made;
• calculate the volume of the sheathing (the number of fence boards 1.8 m long);
• determine the method of installing transverse joists and sheathing, as well as select the type and calculate the number of fasteners.

The choice of material for support pillars is simple: the most preferable option is a metal profile pipe with a cross section of 60*60 mm (for corner supports) and 50*50 (for intermediate posts). Proper preparation operation and proper installation will ensure the service life of such supports for at least 30 years.

If the soil in the fenced area belongs to the category of inactive, i.e. when the seasons change, its layers practically do not move, and groundwater lies at a great depth (below 1.5 m), the supporting pillars of a wooden fence can be installed by backfilling or partial concreting.

Finally, as transverse logs for a fence with a section length of 2.5 m and a leaf height of 1.8 m, it is advisable to use wooden beams with a cross section of at least 40*40 mm.

Calculation

When designing, you should take into account a number of design requirements that apply to wooden fences. Strict compliance with these requirements will allow you to create a truly reliable, strong and durable fence.

Basic design requirements:

1. The section size should not exceed 2.5 m to avoid sagging of the transverse joists under the weight of the skin.
2. The support pillars are installed in the soil to a depth equal to the freezing depth of the latter (80–120 cm), but not less than a quarter of their total length. When choosing a method for installing supports, you need to take into account the groundwater level, as well as the soil composition, which affects the behavior of the soil when the seasons change.
3. To give the fence the necessary reliability and stability, the corner supports, as well as the side posts of gates and gates, must be thicker than the intermediate ones.
4. The bottom line of the fence should be at least 15 cm above the soil level.
5. Support posts must be at least 10 cm higher than the fence.

Good to know: If there are uneven areas or a slight slope on the site, it is advisable to level the soil. This will greatly simplify the task of installing the fence structure.

The calculation of fence parameters is carried out in several stages:

• Suppose the site has the shape of a trapezoid with bases measuring 29 and 40 m and sides measuring 25 and 20 m. The perimeter value is calculated by summing all sides of the figure:

P = 29+40+20+25 = 114 m;

• If the gate and gate are installed side by side on the line of the small base of the trapezoid, the length of the fence on this side of the site will be the difference between the total length of the segment and the total width of the gate and entrance:

l 1 = 29 - (1.5+2.5) = 25 m;

• In this case, the total length of the fence will be:

L = 25+40+20+25 = 110 m;

• Now you can count the number of fence sections, each of which is 2.5 m long:

n sections = L/l sections = 110/2.5 = 44;

• Having the exact number of sections, we calculate the number of support pillars using the formula:

N supports = n + 1 = 44+ 1 = 45;

Please note: The corner supports and posts on the sides of the gates and wickets must be thicker than the intermediate ones. Their number is 6 pieces - 4 at the corners of the site and 2 at the entrance and gate. Accordingly, the number of intermediate supports will be equal to: 45 - 6 = 39 pcs.

• Next, you need to calculate the height of the support pillars. With a soil freezing depth of 80 cm, a fence height of 1.8 m, and also taking into account the requirements for the height of the supports, it turns out that the total length of each of them will be:

L supports = 1.8 + 0.1 + 0.15 + 0.8 = 2.85 m;

• The last step in the preliminary calculations is to determine the number of transverse fence joists. If we take the height of the latter to be 1.8 m, each section will need 2 crossbars. Thus, total number the lag will be:

n lag = n sections * 2 = 44 * 2 = 88;

As a result of the calculations, we obtain the exact number of structural elements of the fence:

• 39 intermediate supports;
• 6 corner supports;
• 88 cross joists.

At this point, the main calculations within the fencing project can be considered completed. To start practical implementation project, all that remains is to select the cladding material and calculate its volume.

Which boards to choose for cladding?

The choice of fence cladding depends on the design style of the fence, as well as on the method of protecting the wood. As a rule, coniferous species are chosen for external fences with a predominantly protective function - pine, spruce or cedar.

If design priority appearance the fence was given to him decorative qualities, for cladding, deciduous wood is much better suited - oak, beech, ash and birch. The strength of such a fence will not be high, but if properly processed it will look very impressive.

Cedar is considered expensive and rare coniferous species. It is distinguished by the presence of a bright and beautiful texture, as well as high wear resistance.

As for oak fences, they are rare - their construction is too expensive.

Other types of deciduous and coniferous trees, although they have good flexibility and fracture strength, do not withstand moisture well, so they are practically not used in the construction of fences.

The most accessible and cheap wood is pine and spruce. It is densely saturated with resin, which is excellent protection from dampness, mold and rot, and is optimal for use under open air humidity (15–20% with proper drying). Spruce wood is softer than pine, so it is easier to cut. But in terms of knotiness of the material, spruce species are undoubtedly the leaders: in pine the knots begin at a considerable height, while in spruce they begin almost immediately from the ground.

Please note: If spruce or pine is chosen for cladding a wooden fence, you should prepare in advance for the fact that these species exhibit an increased tendency to cracking. This spruce and pine wood due to the nature of the fibers and the abundance of knots. This means that the material needs to be purchased with some reserve, since some of it will inevitably go to waste.

Calculation of fence cladding

The last step before going to the building materials store is to calculate the number of fence boards needed to create the fabric of the fence being built. This value is calculated as follows:

1. First you need to take the amount of clearance between the pickets. Let's assume it will be 4 cm.
2. We measure the width of one fence board. Let it be equal to 15 cm.
3. The length of one section of the fence is known - it is 2.5 m, i.e. 250 cm. If the boards were installed closely, it could take 16 units per section. But with a 4 cm clearance, this number can be safely reduced to 13.
4. Let's check the correctness of our choice. The total width of the boards will be: 13*15 = 195 cm. Then the width of the gaps between the boards (taking into account the fact that there will be 1 more gaps than the picket) will be equal to: (13+1)*4 = 52 cm. Together it will be: 195 + 56 = 251 cm, which differs by only 1 cm from the length of the fence section, and this value can be easily compensated by increasing the size of the extreme gaps by 0.5 cm.
5. We calculate the number of boards required to cover the entire fence (without gates and wickets): 13*44 = 572 pcs.

Good to know: A standard wooden picket fence has a thickness of 1.5 - 2.5 cm. This value is important when calculating the volume of boards required for cladding the fence. So, with a fence height of 180 cm, a board width of 15 cm and a thickness of 2 cm, the volume of the cladding will be: 180 * 15 * 2 * 572 = 3,088,800 cm 3 or almost 3.1 cubic meters.

Construction tool

Preparing for the construction of a wooden fence includes collecting tools that will significantly simplify and significantly speed up the work. The following should be included in the list:

• jigsaw;
• circular saw with metal discs;
• welding machine;
• wood hacksaw;
• electric drill with a set of drills for wood and metal;
• shovel and crowbar;
• garden earth drill;
• hammer and pliers;
• set of screwdrivers and wrenches;
• electric plane;
• sandpaper for wood;
• brushes for treating wood with protective composition and paint;
• building level and plumb line;
• measuring cord (twine);
• construction tape.

Please note: During the construction of the fence you will definitely need fasteners. For a simple fence, you can use galvanized nails, but much more durable option There will be screws or bolted connections. It is noteworthy that for the latter you will have to prepare through holes in the picket fence and transverse joists in advance.

How to make a wooden fence with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

The construction of a wooden fence can be divided into three stages:

1. Installation of support pillars.
2. Installation of crossbars.
3. Frame covering.

Each of them deserves a more detailed description.

Installation of supports

Let's assume that the soil in the fenced area allows the installation of fence support posts using the backfill method. Let's look at how this is done using the example of one of the supports:

1. Using a garden auger, a crowbar and a shovel, we make a hole in one of the corners of the site with a depth of 1–1.2 m and a diameter of 40–50 cm.
2. At the bottom of the hole we place and carefully compact a sand cushion 10–15 cm thick.
3. Place a support in the center of the hole. This is a square profile pipe, the outer edges of which must be parallel to both arms of the fence.
4. We pour a mixture of crushed stone and sand to a height of 20–25 cm at the bottom of the hole and compact it thoroughly.
5. We check the verticality of the support and the parallelism of its edges to the fence sleeves.
6. We fill in the next portion of the cushion from sand and crushed stone, compact it and check the position of the support again. And so on until the very top of the pit.

Good to know: During the backfilling process, the sand-stone cushion will fit more tightly if it is moistened with plenty of water, not forgetting to add sand.

Installation of cross beams

Fence crossbars made of wooden beams are most conveniently mounted using homemade brackets. They are made from a metal corner 35*35 mm. But in order to save time and materials, you can simply buy ready-made brackets in a store.

The lag is installed as follows:

Please note: The distance between the logs can be reduced if necessary, but this will negatively affect the strength of the fence along the upper and lower edges of the canvas. The support should be at least 5–10 cm above the sheathing, and the bottom of the latter should be no less than 10–15 cm from the soil line.

Frame covering

Before we begin installing fence boards, we note that there are at least two ways to solve this problem. One is that the picket fence is mounted on the logs before installing the latter on the supports:

1. The first thing you need to do is set the crossbars at the required distance from each other, maintaining a single plane. This can be done using pre-prepared stands from scrap materials.
2. It doesn’t hurt to make templates in advance that are convenient for laying out gaps between the boards.
3. It also doesn’t hurt to place the lower (or upper) edge of the canvas under the ruler. As such, you can use any of the remaining crossbars, positioned at the required distance from the one being mounted.
4. Using self-tapping screws or bolts, we mount fence boards on cross beams. In this case, you need to ensure that there is no deflection or any other stress in the structure of the canvas.
5. We lift the finished fence sheet and fix it with bolts to the previously welded brackets. This will require at least two pairs of working hands. In addition, you will have to prepare stands 10–15 cm high. With their help, it will be much easier to fix the canvas with lags on the brackets, which is necessary for the successful installation of the structure on the bolts.
6. If the fence boards were installed without deforming the crossbars, and the latter were aligned accurately, their ends will easily fit onto the brackets.

Please note: The second way to install the sheathing is to install each board separately. With this approach, it becomes more difficult to place the fence boards in a strictly vertical position and at an equal distance from each other, and it also creates tension in the structure of the canvas due to the deflection of the crossbars under the weight of the sheathing.

Protection and finishing: how to cover and paint

Wooden fence used outdoors all year round. This means that all structural elements need reliable protection from moisture, temperature changes, pests, rust and fire.

Good to know: Metal elements The fence frame, especially in areas with welded and bolted connections, must be primed and painted before installation. Before starting the main work, it also does not hurt to remember that the legs of the support pillars installed on the ground require additional waterproofing. It can be done with roofing felt or bitumen. But first for isolation internal space profile pipe It is necessary to weld plugs onto its lower and upper ends.

In addition to humidity, harmful microorganisms and pests, the life of a wooden fence is reduced. ultraviolet radiation. It accelerates the oxidation of wood fibers and evaporates the moisture contained in it. As a result, wooden fencing elements lose not only their visual appeal, but also bearing capacity. To prevent premature wear of the structure, it is recommended to use special additives - UV hardeners - when applying impregnation.

The impregnating composition is laid in several layers on the primer deep penetration. Primed and impregnated wooden surfaces are covered with moisture-resistant varnish or paint, which serve as the finishing touch to protect the fence from aggressive operating factors.

Please note: Primers and impregnations change the color of the wood, which must be taken into account when designing a wooden fence.

The condition of the wooden fence must be closely monitored throughout its entire service life. Any damage or material wear should be repaired immediately, which will significantly increase the service life of the structure. As for the choice of design method for a wooden fence, it depends on many factors, the main ones being the aesthetic preferences of the owner of the site and his financial capabilities. For example, a finished fence can be decorated or even strengthened by forging, give it an original color, experimenting with impregnations and finishing coat, decorate with glass or stone inserts, etc. At the same time, you can decorate the fence gradually, the main thing is to reliably protect it from destruction by moisture, pests and fading in the sun at the very beginning.

Video: Building a wooden fence yourself

Building a wooden fence with your own hands requires careful preparation. Even at the design stage, you need to thoughtfully study the building materials market and try to determine the conditions under which the fence will be used. With careful attention to the basic design requirements, as well as the vagaries of the base material, building a fence yourself will take a minimum of effort and bring maximum pleasure and benefit.

Building a beautiful fence at your dacha is not considered an easy process.

But by following the instructions that will be discussed today, you can learn how to build a fence correctly, saving valuable time and effort.

Corrugated fencing

One of the most common materials for constructing country fencing is corrugated sheeting, which has many advantages.

Do-it-yourself installation of a fence made of corrugated sheets helps save valuable time due to the speed of the work process.

You just need to determine the required location of the fence, mount the posts, which will subsequently be covered with corrugated sheeting.

Advantages of the material

Such a fence reliably hides the area from prying eyes, especially in comparison with a fence constructed from mesh.

Corrugated sheeting reflects various sounds as much as possible and is a practical material that does not require professionalism in installation.

To create a fence, a photo of which can be seen below, it is preferable to purchase corrugated sheeting with corrugation about 20 mm in height. After all, the large height is intended mainly for arranging the roof.

Installation of corrugated fencing

Before constructing a fence, it is necessary to perform the appropriate calculations. To do this, you should outline the location of the future building, decide on the location of the gate, as well as the gate.

In addition, it is important to determine where the posts for the fence will be installed, to calculate its height along the perimeter, as well as the height of the gate with a wicket. The amount of material directly depends on the listed parameters.

Then you should install the pillars using metal pipes with a diameter of 80 mm. The upward-facing part of the column should be welded to prevent moisture from entering the pipe.

To arrange the pillars, you will need a hole, the width of which reaches 1.5 meters and the depth of up to 1 meter. Arrange the foundation and after it has completely hardened, install the profile, which is designed for attaching the profiled sheet.

It is important to secure the profile, as well as the pillars, with electric welding, then coat it with a primer to prevent corrosion. At the final stage, secure the corrugated sheet to the frame with self-tapping screws.

Mesh fencing

Fencing a site with a fence made from a chain-link mesh must begin with precise marking of the placement of pillars, for which metal pipes are used.

For intermediate-purpose posts, 40 cm recesses are made in the ground with a drill; tension type a recess of up to 60 cm is required.

As soon as the tension posts are installed in the corners of the proposed fence, it is necessary to connect them by welding or bolts to adjacent posts, using supports.

But such a fence will not be reliable, so you cannot do without wire rod, which must be passed through the cells.

Note!

To stretch the wire rod between the posts, several holes should be drilled in each. You can attach the mesh to prepared poles.

To learn how to make this fence with your own hands, place the roll in a vertical position next to the support post and make sure that the folded sides of the stitches are placed at the top of the roll. Attach the stitching at the top of the mesh to the top of the post, then proceed to the other post, slowly unwinding the roll.

After the wire rod is passed through the mesh between the prepared pillars, it is necessary to insert its ends into the holes that were prepared in advance, pulling the wire as tight as possible, securing it well on the surface of the pillars, using tension-type bolts.

Fence decoration

Often, owners of suburban areas are faced with a reasonable question related to the design of a wooden or other material fence at their dacha.

The first option for decorating a fence is, of course, decorating it with plants. A vertical gardening method is used. Hops or grapes are suitable for this purpose. It is also good to plant annual plants that climb along pre-tensioned wires.

Note!

Another way to decorate the fence at the dacha is by painting and painting.

It is good to hang a special pot with petunias on a blind type fence. These plants are completely unpretentious and bloom almost throughout the warm season.

The blind type of fencing will serve for many years in the construction of a gazebo, since you already have one wall surface, you will need a few more additional supports, after which you can begin to install the roof.

Innovative technologies make it possible to build a fence from durable material. Also, the fence can have any height. It all depends on the preferences and wishes of the owner of the suburban area.

Therefore, focus on your wishes and financial capabilities and arrange your property outside the city!

DIY fence photo

Note!

The question is how to make a fence on garden plot, worries both summer residents and owners of private cottages to the same extent. In addition to the functions of dividing areas or protecting against the entry of strangers into the territory of a household, the fence also serves an aesthetic purpose. Creative ideas home craftsmen sometimes lead to the creation of real masterpieces from available materials. But both the elite and the simplest fences are built according to the same principles. Therefore, it is useful to know how to properly install a fence on a site.

How to choose the right material?

Among the materials offered on the construction markets there are a wide variety of products that are perfect for constructing fences. Among them, the following can be particularly noted:

• lumber (boards, slabs, picket fences) are considered the most affordable and convenient, since almost anyone can process it without the use of special equipment and with minimum set tools;
• corrugated sheets, metal pickets, forged sections or polycarbonate require pre-installation during installation metal supports, which means working with materials that are difficult to process;
• the chain-link mesh is convenient in itself, but installing supports involves the same manipulations as in the previous case;
• scrap materials various kinds leave room for imagination, but require non-standard solutions during installation;
• brick, reinforced concrete and stone need to be connected using cement mortar or mesh.

In the latter case, the structure will turn out to be quite heavy, so it is necessary to lay a foundation under it. The construction of this structural element requires excavation and concrete work, which significantly complicates the process of constructing a fence. Such massive structures are usually made for a country house in which people live permanently. They are an element of the overall design and are often created from materials that are in harmony with the decoration of the facade.

The combined designs look very nice.

They include fence elements made of different materials. The most common options for combining brick or stone pillars with metal or lumber.

In each individual case, the owner of the site decides how to choose a fence for the cottage, focusing solely on his own needs. The cost of parts and the entire structure as a whole also plays a significant role in the choice.

Do I need permission to build a fence?

Building rules and regulations regulate many aspects of the construction of fences: the distance to reservoirs and trees, to buildings for other purposes, to roads, etc. But SNiP for the construction of a fence is not a law, but only advisory acts, on the basis of which the administration of each locality creates construction rules. Most often, permission is applied for if you want to install a fence more than 2 m high. The city architect must allow construction on a corner plot, since an incorrectly installed fence can obstruct the view at a street intersection.

The production of fences between areas is also regulated. To ensure that neighbors' garden beds and green spaces do not suffer from lack of sun, building codes stipulate that maximum height the fence should not exceed 1.5 m. For the same purpose, there is another rule: it should be as transparent as possible. This quality of fencing depends both on what material to choose and on the design of the structure itself. For a fence separating 2 neighboring areas, it is recommended to choose different meshes, picket fences, openwork sections made of concrete or metal. In any case, the gap between the opaque elements must be no less than the width of the part itself.

A blind fence can only be installed on the street side, but with an agreement with neighbors, it is possible to build it between properties.

In this case, it is better to draw up a written contract even before making a fence at the dacha.

To avoid a dispute between neighbors regarding land surveying issues, before making fences, you need to contact the BTI. After accurate measurements of the boundaries of the site, you need to mark the area. This part is required in preparation for the main stages of construction.

Preparatory work

Before you build a fence at your dacha, you should familiarize yourself with the options for its design. For inspiration, an illustration in a book, stills from your favorite films, your own imagination or a beautiful fence near a cottage are suitable. Fence projects for country houses are also available in the architectural bureau: when applying for permission, you can simultaneously resolve the issue of choosing the appearance of the fence for the dacha. By looking at sketches of fences or creating them yourself, you can draw up a site plan and determine its length and width.

Based on these data, it is easy to calculate how much material is required for the posts and fencing fabric. The fence diagram should be drawn to scale so that the calculation is as accurate as possible. In some cases, you will need to take into account how high the fence should be. When purchasing reinforced concrete products, boards and sheet materials, you have to take into account standard sizes individual elements.

Once the plan has been drawn up, you can mark the area. To do this you will need pegs (poles) and a thin cord. If the border along which fences and fences for the house are erected is a straight line, then it will be enough to drive stakes at the corners of the site. If the outlines of a private household are curved, markers will have to be placed on relatively straight parts of the border. A cord is pulled tightly between the stakes, along which the entire row of support posts for the fence will subsequently be aligned.

Using a tape measure, you need to find and mark the location of each support and the location of the entrance group.

Usually the column spacing is 2 m, but this is an optional figure. Sections can be made smaller, but it is not recommended to install long spans: the mesh may sag, and blind fences will have too much windage with a minimum of fastenings. When choosing components for a fence with fixed dimensions, you need to determine the pitch depending on the length of the material. A peg must be driven in at the location of each post, since the mark on the ground can be washed away by rain or accidentally rubbed off during the movements of people and animals.

What is needed for construction?

Building a fence with your own hands must begin with the acquisition of some materials and tools that may be needed in the work. In order not to make a mistake with your choice, you need to know what the fence is made of, and based on this, decide what you can build it from. The main details of any structure are the supporting elements (pillars), veins or slabs (horizontal fastenings) and the fence web (a plane made of some material).

Having decided what to make the fence from and determining the quantity necessary materials, the home handyman goes to the store and buys the following tools and components for the fence:

• shovel;
• plumb and level;
• roulette;
• wood saw or grinder (for metal fence);
• hammer and nails or screws and screwdriver;
• pillars for support (10x10 cm block or steel pipe with a diameter of 10 cm);
• cement, sand and crushed stone;
• corner or thin pipe for metal veins;
• 5x5 cm block for wooden parts;
• materials for the fence fabric - of your own choice.

When building a fence made of polycarbonate, corrugated sheets or chain-link, you will definitely need a welding machine to attach the veins to the posts. But this service can be ordered from a trade organization, providing dimensions and a sketch, or you can call a specialist to your home, because not everyone knows how to make welds correctly.

When building a country fence with your own hands from non-traditional materials, you will have to think through the method of attaching the canvas to the supports yourself. If a heavy stone structure is planned, then bricks or natural material will be required.

For gabion structures you will have to purchase a special mesh.

Fencing installation technology

Light fences and fences for the house are built according to the same principles. Regardless of what material is chosen for fencing the site, the construction of fences is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. After the markings have been made and the location of each pillar is indicated, you need to dig holes for the supports. Since deep pits have to be expanded when working with a shovel and the pole may move during installation, the mark can be transferred to the cord, marking the center of the support with colored electrical tape or thread. After this, the pole must be pulled out and a hole must be dug at least 50 cm deep. It is advisable that its bottom be below the freezing point of the soil.
2. Backfill by pouring crushed stone into the hole in a layer of 15–20 cm. Compact the material.
3. Place the post in the hole, aligning it with the mark and vertical. In order for it to maintain its position, you need to spread it large stones or wooden wedges. If the work is carried out with an assistant, he can hold the support in the desired position. Fill the pit with crushed stone mixed with sand and dry cement (4:3:1, respectively) to the top, tamping it down during the filling process. Check the verticality of the column again and lightly pour water over the cement-crushed stone mixture (the amount of liquid is approximately 1/10 of the volume of the mixture).
4. Install the remaining pillars in the same way. It will be possible to continue work after 24–48 hours.
5. When the footing has set, you can begin attaching the veins. It is advisable to calculate their installation locations so that the ends of the boards or edges sheet material were no more than 30–40 cm above and below them. If the canvas is chosen to be partially transparent (picket fence, polycarbonate, mesh), the same distance from the upper and lower edges of the canvas to the veins will look beautiful. Check with a level that each layer is horizontal.
6. After installing the horizontal structural elements, you can begin attaching the fence panel. Individual parts (board, picket fence) are installed individually, fastening is done with nails or self-tapping screws. Before making a fence with your own hands, it is advisable to tighten the cord to level the piece elements in height. It is easier to check the horizontality of a profiled sheet or polycarbonate with a level.
7. To install a wooden gate, you need to lay the bars parallel to each other and fill them with pickets, making sure that the parts do not move. Turn it wrong side up and measure the block to make a diagonal stiffener. Cut its ends at an angle, lay it between horizontal bars and attach it with nails or self-tapping screws to each vertical plank at the intersection. For a wicket or gate made of sheet material, you need to weld a metal frame on which to fasten a profiled sheet, mesh or polycarbonate cut to the size of the product.

Using these rules you can build budget fence on a summer cottage from relatively cheap materials. You can complement and decorate it with decorative columns made of brick or stone. To do this, after installation vertical supports and attachment of veins steel pipes covered with building materials, connecting masonry elements cement mortar(1 part cement and 3 parts sand). In the presence of large quantity bricks can be laid out and decorative plinth under the sections.

Thanks to this design, a fence placed near the house with your own hands looks much more solid than a conventional fence made of a metal profile or chain-link on a frame. Brickwork can be combined with wood, but the supports still need to be made of steel, welding short sections of angles onto them, to which sections can be attached after building the brick pillars.

A homemade fence made from openwork bent or forged sections will turn out to be especially stylish and elegant. This is not the most cheap option, but the owner has the right to decide for himself which fence is in better harmony with his house. Ready-made sections can be purchased or ordered according to your own sketches at construction company or a blacksmith shop.

They are installed by welding.

You can build an original fence for your dacha with your own hands from waste material. Many people collect empty ones plastic bottles in order to make a variety of objects from them. Country fences are no exception: by connecting empty containers with wire or cement, people make reliable fences for their plots in a gardening cooperative.

To make 1 fencing element, you can cut off the bottoms of bottles of the same size. After this, the parts are strung on a fishing line or wire, passing it through the lid. The bottles are pushed one into the other through the cut off lower parts until they stop. The line is fixed.

Having made many of these “pickets,” they should be strung on thick steel wire tied to the posts. Aligning the piece elements in height, the wire is passed through the side surfaces of the bottles at the top and bottom. If the plastic picket fence is very high, you can make 3-4 horizontal rows of wire to make the fence stronger.

Plastic fences for a private home can be made differently. This will require a concrete solution of sand and cement. Having filled the foundation and a low base (about 20 cm), PET bottles are laid horizontally in the formwork, placing their bottoms in one vertical plane. After this, a row of empty containers is filled with solution and the procedure is repeated until the desired height is reached.

Decorative wooden fences

If the plot in a private house is registered in rustic style, then a wattle fence or a fence made of poles will be an excellent addition to the garden design. The first option involves creating a fence of vertical posts intertwined flexible material. Clearing a new property or neighborhood of American maple, willow, or other shrubs with long, straight branches can simultaneously remove debris and create a beautiful fence.

Many people know how to install decorative wattle fence correctly: this is the most common type of fence in Russian villages. Even the availability of modern materials has not reduced the popularity of durable and cheap fencing. To make a fence, a series of thick stakes are driven into the ground. The step between them is small, only 50–60 cm. After all the stakes are installed along the marking line, they are intertwined with horizontally arranged flexible rods.

A fence made of poles has more symbolic meaning, marking the boundary of the site.

Several horizontal crossbars are tied or nailed to the dug posts. The distance between them is quite large (up to 50 cm), so such a fence will not save you from unauthorized entry. It can be used as a fence between areas.

Gabion fences

There is another way to put up a fence without extra costs time and money using waste raw materials. To create a gabion, rigid galvanized welded mesh is used. The most important thing is to choose a cell size such that the contents do not fall out.

To install the structure, you need to dig in steel posts, as for a regular fence.

The grid is positioned so that the columns are between its 2 layers. The space inside can be filled with cobblestones or stone fragments, broken glass, crushed stone, etc.

Having filled 50 cm of the gabion height, you need to install a series of hooks (braces) so that the mesh does not deform during further filling. The step between the braces is 30-50 cm. After this, you can fill another 50 cm of volume and again strengthen the wall with hooks. Continue this way until the end, raising the layer of filler to the very top of the mesh.

Fence designs can be very different. It is important to monitor the verticality of the columns at the very first stage of construction. Knowing how to install the supports correctly, the master will be able to cope with other operations without much effort.