Step-by-step instructions for installing a wooden window yourself. Instructions for self-installation of wooden windows. There are various reasons for this action

Glad to be useful to you again, my friends!

After examining my windows in a wooden house, I came to the conclusion that it was time to replace them. I had never encountered such a process before, so I made up for the lack of practical experience with the help of other people’s knowledge: I searched through a bunch of forums and websites, and through friends I found people who had already done similar work. Then I made a number of conclusions and determined the algorithm for my actions when reinstalling windows. Next, I will present everything sequentially.

First of all, I measured the windows and ordered new ones, providing the exact dimensions. While the order was being fulfilled, I began dismantling the old frames and then clearing the openings of accumulated debris. Upon receipt of the windows, I installed window sills and prepared double-glazed windows for installation. I placed the structures in permanent places and secured them. Of course, in reality the process was not so quick and easy, but there is nothing overwhelming about it - I managed it and you can too.

Technology for installing a plastic window in the opening of a wooden house

When installing a plastic double-glazed window into the frame of a wooden house, you cannot do without a level and plumb line - if you want the window sashes to move smoothly, not open under their own weight, or jam. Then never fix a window without making sure – not by eye, but by level – that it is level.

To ensure that the work involved in inserting the window into the opening and leveling does not go down the drain, it is necessary to fix the leveled structure with mounting fasteners.

The best option is 6 pieces for each window. They can be ordered in the same place where you submit your application for the production of double-glazed windows.

There are technical slides for these fastenings on each side of the window, so there will be no difficulties with the correct placement of the plates. Each plate has holes for self-tapping screws. Is it possible to do without plates? Yes, if you want to drill through it when attaching the frame, which will cause depressurization of the chambers in the profile. Personally, I am against such barbarism - I need windows not only for beauty, but also for reliable protection from cold and moisture. And tell the installers, if you don’t install them yourself, to install the windows according to the rules. Only in this case will the expectations from plastic double-glazed windows in a wooden house be fully justified.

I highly recommend removing the window sashes from the frame before installing it in the opening. This won’t take much time, but it will save a lot of effort: without it, it will become much lighter and it will be easier to direct it to the right place.

Algorithm for installing a double-glazed window into the opening of a wooden house:

• Having inserted the structure into the frame, insert wood chips 2 centimeters thick under the lower frame;
• using a water level, determine the quality of the installation;
• achieve the desired indicator by placing additional chips;
• Use the same pieces of wood to level the frame vertically;
• Having determined the most optimal position, secure the frame to the post with self-tapping screws, inserting them into the holes on the mounting plates.

When screwing in each self-tapping screw, do not hit the ridge of the log into which the pigtail rests. To avoid loosening the screw, screw it in slightly at an angle.

After fixing the frame, foam it along the contour only after hanging the sashes - they will prevent it from bending under the pressure of the hardening foam. If the sashes are not installed before this, then later there will be problems with the movement of the vents even in a perfectly installed frame.

After leveling the frame horizontally and vertically, there should be a 2 cm thick gap on each side of the entire structure for filling with foam. The height of the distance between the top panel of the frame and the first log is no less than 5 and no more than 15 cm - the gap will prevent the wood from pressing on the windows after the frame shrinks.

Before pouring the foam, a control check is required to ensure the correct installation of the entire structure. They focus on the “behavior” of the open sash: it should not independently go further than it was opened, or try to return back, obeying its weight, and not you.

This is a short educational program on the topic of installing plastic double-glazed windows in a wooden house. I hope that my advice will help you in your noble and exciting endeavor.

Self-installation

I wanted to install plastic windows in my country wooden house. Everything that will be described below is a verbal presentation of my experience in independently installing double-glazed windows in a house made of timber.

Why did I decide to install the windows myself?

There are several reasons:

• for installation you will have to pay up to 50% of the cost of the window itself (with the savings from 2 installed yourself, you can buy a third);
• almost all companies that provide window installation services in wooden houses do not provide any guarantees for their work;
• there is no need to pay for a service that any owner can provide to himself in 2 hours of work.

In order for the installation result to please you for many years, you need to adhere to the step-by-step algorithm of actions recommended below.

Removing old windows

Regardless of who will install new double-glazed windows in a wooden building - you or invited workers - It is permissible to install new structures only on a rigid foundation. I was lucky: the window casings in our house were replaced a couple of years ago, so the wood was flawless. That is, I did not find any wormholes, rot, cracks, dents or chips on it. Therefore, when ordering double-glazed windows, I indicated the dimensions of the new windows, taking into account that the boxes would remain. If in your case the condition of the frames turns out to be not very good, but your housekeeping will not allow you to throw them away, then the dismantled ones can be used as the basis for a mini-greenhouse.

Don't know how good and bad the boxes under your windows are? All the same, do not allow either yourself or your employees to break them out “with meat”. You will always have time to use it for firewood. The same applies to glass: there is no certainty that they will not crack during dismantling, so take it out first - they will also find a use. I was lucky again: the frames were still strong, so the structures were removed without removing the glass.

How to prepare a place

Walk around the entire perimeter of the frame with a dry brush or clean rag to sweep away anything remaining after dismantling.

Window sill installation

The first to be installed in a permanent place is a plastic window sill., which is “charged” with serving as the basis for the rest of the structure. Hence the “legs grow” of the requirement to install it perfectly level and horizontal. A regular building level will help determine how correctly it is installed in a vertical and horizontal position. To adjust its location taking into account the level readings, use cut strips of plastic or wood chips (the latter only if they have been treated with an antiseptic). To stabilize the window sill, make a notch on each side of the box, going 8 millimeters deep into the wood.

Secure the window sill with self-tapping screws, screwing it to the bottom of the window frame. Fasteners are placed with a two-centimeter indentation from the outer end of the window sill and with a mandatory backing under each washer. It will prevent the self-tapping screw from breaking through the fabric if you overdo it when tightening the fasteners. Don't worry that the fasteners will spoil the overall impression - they simply won't be visible.

How to prepare a double-glazed window

I recommend installing a handle before starting installation work. But the film can be removed later - this way there is less chance of leaving unattractive stripes on the surface of the plastic. You only need to tear off the adhesive strip where the handle is installed. When placing the lever on the sash, hold its long part parallel to the window sill.

After installing the window, this position of the handle will correspond to the mode of opening the entire sash towards itself. When the handle is moved with the end down, the sash will be locked; upwards - only the narrow upper part of the window will be able to move completely away from the frame panel.

Having secured the handle to the panel with a pair of bolts, you need to turn it end down. On the side posts, mark the holes for fastenings that will hold the window within the frame.

Window installation

We place the assembled structure in the opening, making sure that on both vertical edges the intermediate distance from the frame to the sides of the glass unit is the same (about a centimeter). At the same time, remember that the horizontal direction is given to us by the window sill that was previously strengthened in the correct position. If it is inconvenient to use a level due to the presence of decor on the outside of the wall, then use a plumb line.

While the person helping you holds the frame, you must wedge a centimeter-wide spacer bar between the frame and the window frame. Their presence is necessary for the stability of the structure being fixed at the moment of connecting the glass unit to the frame with self-tapping screws. If you are lazy or forget about the bars, you can cause the window to move to the side during the fastening process. As a result, the doors will then be difficult to open and close.

After wedging in the bars and placing the glass unit strictly according to the level indicators, secure the inserted structure in the box with self-tapping screws, not forgetting to screw them in on each of the four sides.

When inserting a self-tapping screw, you need to ensure that its location is in the free space between the window and the frame itself.

Then, during periods when the house “walks” under the influence of climatic influences and seasonal changes, the windows in it will not warp.

Installing a window in a wooden house using a self-expanding tape in the video:

How to install double-glazed windows in a wooden building?

First, take care of maintaining the passage of the drain holes - install adjusting plates between them that will prevent condensation from accumulating from the window. Then insert the double-glazed window into the opening of the box so that there is free space around the entire perimeter between the two structures. It is necessary to maintain the integrity of the glass in the frame when the frame will move behind the house in the spring or winter.

If the glass unit fits tightly to the frame (minimum gap of 5 mm), file a claim with the manufacturer of the structure. A decent contractor should respond by offering an appropriate solution to the problem.

Having inserted a double-glazed window into the box and aligned the first one on four sides with respect to the last one, secure its location with plastic beads with profile spikes. These “spiky” strips are very easy to install: just push them with small taps into the openings. When the bead's spines reach the grooves, you will hear a characteristic click.

Having achieved a fixed and correct placement of the double-glazed window in the box, fill the voids between these two structures with polyurethane foam, treating the cracks from the inside and outside.

Remove any frozen excess by trimming with a knife.

Having made sure that the work was carried out correctly: the grooves are closed, the sashes move only under the pressure of your hands, you can begin installing additional fittings, trims and drainage systems.

Secure Installation Rules

All difficulties with installing windows in wooden houses have one root: the instability of wooden structures throughout the entire operational period. Without taking this factor into account during the installation of plastic structures, be it windows or doors, it is quite possible to find yourself in a situation where the new “joinery” fails without even working for a year.

How do wooden houses differ from others? Wood loses a lot of moisture in the first years after the construction of a log house. A year, as some say, is not enough for the final drying process. In the best case, the walls of the house will take their final size in the sixth year after their construction. But in some regions the process of “walking” of houses never ends.

On average, the height of the wall can decrease by 4-5 cm. And what will happen to the double-glazed windows that were installed in the box in such a way that there was only 2-2.5 cm between the sides of these structures? Do owners of wooden houses really need to forget about dreams of plastic windows? Of course not. You just need to follow a number of technical recommendations.

First: do not neglect the casing. It is also called a pigtail. Thanks to it, any windows gain independence from the influence, within reasonable limits, of the load-bearing walls of the building. Whether they shrink or become slightly bent, this will not affect the integrity and functionality of the window.

General technical characteristics of the casing:

• will protect the logs from moving away from the vertical in the area of ​​the window opening;
• does not resist vertical shrinkage of the wall;
• takes on all the loads;
• contributes to the strength of the wall in the window opening area.

What is casing? The most common option is to make square vertical grooves with a side of 5 cm in the ends of the logs and then seal them with bars of the same size. But such treatment of the walls around the opening is only suitable for preparing a place for wooden windows. To prepare an opening for plastic double-glazed windows, you need to make a ridge at the ends of the logs, and then install a window carriage with a groove on it. The presence of a tongue and groove will ensure that the logs slide without harming the window frame.

What is a window carriage? These are vertical bars with dimensions of 15x10 cm, with notches on the edges. The depth of the cuts is 5x5 cm, they are made for inserting jumpers topped at the ends with spikes in the form of 15x5 cm planks.

The assembled casing is 7-8 centimeters below the window opening. This gap is left due to possible wall shrinkage. When the pigtail is assembled in the opening, it is then covered with rolled tow, and carriages are stuffed on top. After such a procedure, neither creaks from shrinkage nor drafts from under the window are scary.

Then you need to make the lower jumper and also stuff the carriages onto the comb with tow. Insert the upper jumper into the hole from above, and then lower it into the groove. Then strengthen the structure with self-tapping screws, making sure that they do not touch the ridge - this is important for maintaining the resulting structure’s relative freedom. After All cracks found between the window frame and the walls must be filled with tow.

You can also insert metal-plastic double-glazed windows into this design without fear that they will jam when the house shrinks. When installing, do not forget that noise, heat, and vapor barriers also need to be taken care of.

The gap between the log house and the casing must be filled with thin strips with wound tow fibers.

When the house begins to shrink noticeably, knock out the slats to replace them with new ones. To make this process easier, I strongly recommend attaching the top casing only to the casing. If you need it, carefully remove it, change the filling, and secure it in place.

When I conducted seminars, I often encountered bewilderment about the need for a window installer to understand the technology of constructing wooden buildings. What's strange about this? Without this, the installer will not be able to install the window in such a way that it will serve without complaints for years. In other cases it is impossible to do without casing.

If you are hired to install plastic double-glazed windows in a wooden house, find out the presence of casing. If it is not there, and instead of a frame there will be a frame from an old window, tell the owner that he has two options. Either he agrees to modernize the window opening for casing and the windows are smaller than planned, or the person will receive windows in old frames without casing, but without your guarantee for a quality result. Since even old wooden houses always “walk” and to resist this, it is better to always take this factor into account when installing windows. And don’t forget to indicate in the contract that you disclaim all responsibility for the future life of the windows.

We install plastic double-glazed windows in a private house

Remember: all wooden buildings shrink. And this fact must always be taken into account when installing plastic double-glazed windows in a log house.

The strongest shrinkage processes of wood occur in the first two years after the construction of the log house is completed. Each meter of masonry shrinks by 1.5 cm. And this is a very large value to ignore when equipping a wooden house with plastic windows.

Why do they make a casing?

The durability of the plastic window and the level of comfort during use depend on how professionally the casing is carried out. It provides the window with a safe position during the period when the house is once again slightly deformed due to fluctuations under the influence of changes in humidity or temperature.

What is casing? This is a box made of thick boards. It is inserted into the window opening, secured using a certain technology, and only then they install the PVC double-glazed window. The box itself is held inside the opening using side grooves.

In the process, you cannot rely on the technical qualities of polyurethane foam or other fastening methods.

A gap must be left between the structure and the upper lintel of the window opening, the value of which should be greater than the expected shrinkage of the wooden wall.

How to make a pigtail:

• inserting wooden beams into specially made grooves (self-tapping screws will then be screwed into the beams);
• cutting out tenons on the edges of the logs in the window opening and forming grooves in the sides of the box (experts call this the “into the deck” technique);
• tenons are made in the sides of the structure, and the ends of the window opening logs are equipped with grooves.

Nuances of preparing a window opening

Do not be intimidated by the work of installing plastic double-glazed windows in a wooden building. If you follow the correct algorithm, you can insert a modern window into a log house of any age with your own hands.

First of all, determine the distance to the window from the floor. The most convenient option is if the window sill is slightly higher than the horizontal plane of your desk. If there is none nearby, then use a distance of 80-90 cm.

Determine the lower and upper boundaries of the window opening using a water level. The top line should be 13 +1.5 cm above the top border of the glass unit, the difference on the sides should be 12-14 +1.5 cm. Leave an allowance of one and a half centimeters to seal the cracks with construction foam.

Having decided on the size of the opening, take measurements for the future window. Observe extreme accuracy both when installing the casing and when taking parameters for the design of the glass unit itself. Qualitative measurement is one of the most important nuances that affects the quality of all subsequent work on installing a double-glazed window into the window opening.

After bringing the opening to the desired condition, start tenoning the ends of the logs facing the window. The rough window is trimmed with jute on the sides and bottom. Make the casing only from well-dried wood, sawn into bars. Make connections with self-tapping screws, and cover the points of convergence along the joints with sealant. Fill the gaps in the window with tow.

For information about casing and trim when installing PVC windows in a wooden house, watch the video:

Installation nuances

The finished metal-plastic structure is placed after being ideally pulled out in the foreground or deepened into the wall. The main product is secured with self-tapping screws, screwing them into specially prepared grooves.

It is permissible to install a metal-plastic window of any configuration in an ordinary wooden house, but not made of timber, if you know how to properly frame it, take measurements and select the appropriate fittings.

When selecting tools and other materials, do not take self-tapping screws longer than 12 cm. Such “stings” will definitely go beyond the frame and dig into the main building, which is unacceptable given the mobility of a wooden house.

To waterproof the external seam, you can use acrylic sealant without additional components in the composition, sealing tape that self-expands after being placed in place, or regular vapor-permeable tape. Such protection will extend the service life of the polyurethane foam and prevent the formation of drafts.

A vapor barrier tape is placed along the inner seam, securing it with special glue. And only then the seam is treated with polyurethane foam.

If you have some basic skills, you can install a wooden window without any problems with your own hands. We will now tell you how to do this easily and efficiently.

Increasingly, wooden windows are beginning to return to apartments and houses. Despite the advantages of PVC windows, one can point out their main disadvantage - plastic ones do not breathe at all. Modern wooden windows make it so that you can easily install the same double or triple glazing in them and they serve no less than plastic ones. It happens that the openings are a little skewed and if you call in specialists, installing a wooden window will cost a pretty penny. That's why we do it ourselves.

First, you need to decide which window you will install: with what profile, with what fittings. What kind of wood should it be made from? We decided, ordered and bought. Now installation.

Helpful information:

Preparing the window opening

First of all, you must dismantle the old window. No special skills required here. After all, breaking is not building. Clear the slopes of plaster. You will still have to make new slopes.

Once the opening is completely clear, you should measure it carefully. The main goal is to determine the configuration of the opening itself, and based on it, the dimensions of the new window are established. If you have encountered or seen how openings are measured when installing plastic windows, then this is done in exactly the same way.

There is such a thing as shrinkage. Every house, even a new one, shrinks. And naturally, this can affect the symmetry of your window opening. Very rarely is the opening perfect. The window itself must certainly be slightly smaller than the opening, especially if it is not symmetrical. You must maintain the gaps, as shown in the figure above.

To make your calculations more accurate, it is better to use a laser tape measure. Or a construction thread with which you can beat off the vertical and horizontal. If they are even, then your measurements will also be accurate.

Window mounting methods

Since now a modern window profile allows you to anchor it right through the wall, you shouldn’t invent any other methods - this will be the simplest and no less reliable. This method also allows you to open the sash in any direction.

In wooden houses, this method of fastening windows is the only one. Moreover, this method is no worse than all the others and at the same time it is the simplest. The window can open in different planes, but this will increase the load on the frame itself. If the walls are skewed, the window sash may jam. Therefore, when taking measurements, it is necessary to calculate the size of the window a little smaller than the opening itself.

How to determine the width of the window frame

The frame must be chosen so thick that the dew point is exactly between the glasses. The inner glass should not fog up. The width is at least twelve centimeters, and if you have thick enough walls, then the maximum width should not exceed 22 centimeters.

The profile of a wooden window is made according to the principle of the profile of plastic windows. It often happens that the fittings will be the same. By the way, to choose accessories, you need to sweat a little. The longevity of your window will depend on it. Therefore, you should definitely familiarize yourself with how to choose the right window fittings.

If, after all, the frame is more than 22 centimeters wide, you should consider additional thermal insulation, which is installed in the openings during installation. If this is not acceptable to you, then the glass package itself should be triple, but this is an additional load on the sash. More often than not, this causes the sash to begin to sag. , however, this is additional trouble in the future.

Again, if the thickness of the wall is large enough, then there are certain proportions that must also be observed. Internal slopes should not be less than 17 centimeters, and external ones 10 centimeters. Often window openings are made with a quarter and the internal slope does not work according to the given parameters. In this case, there is nothing terrible, because the quarter itself will be a kind of additional insulation.

How to install in a concrete opening

If you have brick or block walls, then the installation of a new wooden window often begins with the installation of a window sill. To do this, a flat cement pad is poured onto the base of the opening in a horizontal plane and the surface is leveled. Typically, the thickness of the window sill is from 30 to 50 centimeters, so the window itself should be made smaller in size.

The window sill is nailed with several dowels, which are driven directly into the wall. remember that from the outside the window sill should not protrude beyond the edge of the window frame. Preparations for installing a wooden window are completed and you can begin this process.

The easiest way to install a window is on blocks. Blocks are ordinary boards of equal thickness, which should also have equal thickness with the gap between the wall and the window frame. One edge of the block is slightly ground down in the form of a wedge so that it is possible, if necessary, to correct the window in the opening horizontally and vertically if the opening itself is not level enough.

First, support blocks are installed - your new wooden window will mainly rest on them, then spacers are installed. Constantly check the vertical and horizontal using a level and, if necessary, adjust using blocks.

As soon as the window frame is in place and you have completely leveled it, then one by one we take out the spacer pads and spray these places with silicone, install the pads back. Wipe off excess silicone with a rag. Once the silicone has hardened, the gaps between the opening and the frame can be filled with polyurethane foam. Any excess of which, after complete drying, is cut off and slopes are made on the outside of the window.

More often it looks like this: the resulting gap between the wall and the frame is filled with polyurethane foam, after drying, the excess is cut off and plastered. Remember that you need to handle foam carefully. If you overdo it, it may become so wide that your window will no longer close. The foam puts a lot of pressure on the frame and bends it. Therefore, familiarize yourself with the rules for using polyurethane foam.

To enhance the effect, the frame is secured with powerful dowels. Two holes are drilled at the top of the frame and on its sides and dowels are hammered into the wall. At this stage, the installation of the window in the concrete wall is completed. All you have to do is make new beautiful slopes from the inside.

Installation in a brick or cinder block wall

If your house is built from cinder block, ceramic brick, or shell rock - that is, from weak materials, then it is advisable to install a new window through fastening. First of all, for this, through holes are drilled through the frame in the wall, two on each side. You can initially make holes in the frame, then align it in two planes evenly and mark holes in the wall, which are drilled after marking, naturally without a frame. The anchors or screws should be 8 centimeters longer than the frame itself, plus the gap between your frame and the wall. At the bottom of the window, you should not install fasteners through the window sill. It is usually attached to the frame with ordinary self-tapping screws.

IMPORTANT! You should not make holes through the pads on which the frame is mounted. If this happens, it is better to move the block to the side before tightening the screw. If you have been adjusting the pads for a long time, be sure to mark them with a pencil.

Installation in a skewed window opening

It often happens that a window opening is really skewed. In this case, the strongest fastenings for the window are anchors - ordinary metal strips with holes. Experts usually advise that you first attach small fastening intermediate strips to the frame and then use them to attach the anchors to the frame. But this method justifies itself when there are several workers. If you are alone, then it is not worth wasting your time on this.

The anchors are attached mainly at the ends to the frame using self-tapping screws along the outer perimeter. The tails should stick out inward. They will still be hidden by the slopes. Once the anchors are ready and screwed to the frame, it can be placed in the window opening. As always, we align the frame horizontally and vertically - after all, our opening is skewed, holes on the wall are marked according to the holes in the anchors, metal strips are bent and drilled for dowels. Once all the holes are ready, the pads are removed. The frame must hang on the anchors.

Crooked openings are either careless work of the builders, or the opening was affected by the shrinkage of the building. Therefore, you should not have rigid connections between the frame and the walls. The cracks are filled with foam and a window sill is installed. More often, with an oblique opening, the window sill is installed in a hanging manner.

Note. Some try to level the window opening using a screed - however, this is a monkey's work, since no screed can stop the uneven shrinkage of the building.

How to properly blow out a crack with foam

Window cracks are blown out using a gun or, at worst, the tube that comes with the bottle of foam. This is done in several approaches, squeezing out thin sausages starting from the middle inward and vice versa. This method will not allow the foam to exert any pressure on the window frame and the foam itself will be evenly distributed around the perimeter.

Installation in a wooden house

In wooden houses, installing windows is usually easy. Many experts install them using liquid nails, but most adhere to the method of fastening with self-tapping screws. If the opening is skewed, it can be leveled using the same chainsaw or hacksaw. Wood is much easier to work with. Be sure to secure the platbands on the outside with self-tapping screws. A strong wind will simply tear them off and no liquid nails will hold them in place.

A window opening in a wooden house has always been one of the most complex construction units. With the advent of PVC windows, an extensive list of new restrictions and requirements associated with the universal design of metal-plastic profiles was added to the problems caused by shrinkage processes. In this connection, installing plastic windows in a wooden house with your own hands should be done only after a thorough study of all the features of this technology.

Let us immediately emphasize that the principle of fastening PVC windows is fundamentally different from the method of installing classic wooden frames, so even experienced craftsmen who have not had experience in this area of ​​construction work are advisable to study the relevant documentation and technological advice from window manufacturers.

You will find general information about the technology for installing plastic windows in our article, and today we will give step-by-step instructions for self-installation.

When preparing to install a plastic window yourself, you should pay special attention to the preparation of tools and materials. Considering that in most cases, the installation of windows in wooden houses is carried out on-site (dacha, country house, etc.), the lack of one specific key or device can create considerable problems.

Let's look at the main groups of tools that are needed to properly install a window structure.

Mechanics

From a mechanical point of view, plastic windows have a far from standard design, so the usual kit of a home craftsman will clearly not be enough.

Below is a list of mechanical tools required to effectively work with PVC profiles:

• iron and rubber hammer (an elastic striker is used to position the frame);
• universal screwdriver;
• set of hex keys;
• handle for removing pins (with hexagonal tip);
• electric drill;
• drills for concrete and metal (diameters from 3 to 10 mm);
• mounting wedges and gaskets;
• universal adjusting key;
• measuring kit (tape measure, square, building level, plumb line);
• device for gripping double-glazed windows (“glass jacks”).

Please note that a regular hacksaw may not be enough for cutting expansion profiles, since some types of extensions may be reinforced with metal. Of course, it is possible to cut such a profile with a hand saw, but you will have to spend much more time on each detail.

Taking into account the above, it would be useful to supplement the above list with a mechanized version of the saw (a jigsaw or a circular saw), as well as devices for fixation (clamps).

It is advisable to take a clamp with a wide grip, since they may be needed not only for securing materials during cutting, but also for attaching expansion profiles.

Sealing

An integral part of the technology for assembling metal-plastic windows is sealing using sealing tapes and polymerizable substances.

When installing PVC profiles with your own hands, you can use sprayers supplied with cylinders of polyurethane foam, but for professional work it is advisable to purchase a separate device that will significantly reduce the cost of consumables.

We would like to separately emphasize that, in addition to polyurethane foam, when installing windows made of polyvinyl chloride, silicone is often used, which is extremely difficult to squeeze out of the tube without a special “gun”.

Waterproofing

Any polymer sealant - and polyurethane foam is no exception - in the case of constant contact with outside air and moisture is destroyed quite quickly. To slow down this process, the internal and external surfaces of the installation gaps must be protected with waterproofing (installed on the internal surfaces, such protection is called a “vapor barrier”).

This can be done either using special tape or through the application of special pastes (putties).

Depending on what type of waterproofing is preferred, the basic list of tools must be supplemented with scissors or a set of spatulas.

Preparing for installation

After the PVC window has been purchased and delivered, it is imperative to check the completeness and compliance of the actual dimensions with the parameters specified in the order.

Before starting a technical description of the work on self-installation of windows, we list the basic terms used to refer to the elements of their design:

• frame (power base of the window);
• sash (moving part of the window);
• double-glazed window (1-2-3 chamber set of glasses combined into a single block);
• impost (internal partitions of the frame);
• glazing bead (snap strips necessary for fixing double-glazed windows in the frame or sashes);
• fittings (window control and regulating elements);
• slope (decorative panel covering the end of the frame or the internal plane of the casing);
• windowsill;
• extension (an expanding profile used to adjust the geometric dimensions of the window).

Examination

As practice shows, window handles and other auxiliary fittings are often lost during transportation.

If the order included a mosquito net, you must check the availability of fasteners for its installation.

In addition to completeness, the dimensions of the window and casing are checked for compliance. The main test criterion is simple - the installation gap should be no more than 2 cm (but not less than 5 mm!). It must be taken into account that when comparing linear dimensions, the above tolerances are multiplied by two. That is, if the internal width of the casing, for example, is 200 cm, then the total width of the frame should be no more than 200-2*2=196 cm.

In cases where the window was purchased with the expectation of adding extensions, measurements are made taking into account the mutual overlap of the locks.

Next, you need to select fastening pins, the length of which should be such that when fully screwed in, they do not pierce through the casing.

This requirement is relevant only for those cases when the window installation is carried out with drilling of the profile. However, it should be remembered that this installation method is a backup and is used only in cases where the window is mounted in a frame consisting only of embedded timber.

The main method of fixing a PVC window in an opening is installation on anchor plates, the purchase of which should also be included in the list of preparatory work.

Disassembly and preparation for installation

The next stage of preparation for installation is disassembling the factory delivery kit. Despite the fact that window installation can be done without dismantling the double-glazed windows, we recommend using the option with complete disassembly, since it is much easier to install and center a light frame than a massive and inconvenient window unit to manipulate.

Below are step-by-step instructions for the disassembly and preparation process:

• remove the packaging and protective tape (you don’t have to remove the tape from the internal surfaces, but if you leave it on the outside, then after 1-2 months it will “stick” tightly to the frame);
• remove the glass units. To do this, you need to remove the glazing beads from the latches. You should start from the bottom;
• dismantle the frames, for which you will need to remove the locking pins (a special key is used for this operation, mentioned in the previous section);
• dismantle auxiliary fittings, otherwise they may be lost or damaged during installation (plugs for drainage holes, covers for hinges, etc.).
• if the window is installed in a reverse quarter, stick the PSUL sealing tape to the outer perimeter of the frame;
• drill holes for dowels or mount anchor plates (depending on the installation method).

We would like to highlight the following nuances:

• when removing double-glazed windows, you should note the original position of the left and right glazing beads;
• the lower edge of the double-glazed windows must be installed on special gaskets - their position must be noted;
• It is best to grab glass panels using a special device (it is also indicated in the list of tools listed above);
• The removed glass units should be handled with extreme care so as not to damage the edges (and also avoid vertical storage).

Installation methods

There are two different ways to install a PVC window with your own hands: with disassembling the window unit and without it.

This difference is due to two factors: the window mounting scheme and the weight of the structure.

The first option is more universal and allows window installation in any way.

The second method is used only in cases where the window block is fixed in the opening using anchor plates. It is used for the installation of fixed windows, or for mass installation of standard format windows in a T-shaped casing.

Obviously, window installation without disassembly is an order of magnitude faster than with disassembly. However, due to the fact that most assembled metal-plastic window units have significant weight, only the first option is recommended for self-installation.

Installation of plastic windows

In order to correctly install the window yourself, you should clearly understand the main rule of installation operations of this type: the effectiveness of the window depends not only on the quality of the double-glazed window, but also on the correct assembly of the entire structure of the window block, which includes several auxiliary subsystems.

In this case, “auxiliary subsystems” mean:

• waterproofing;
• additional seals;
• slopes;
• low tides;
• platbands.

Particular attention should be paid to the position and protection of sealants. The figure on the right shows the basic layout of additional seals.

Please note that the seal around the outer perimeter of the window is installed only when installed in a reverse quarter. If the window is mounted in a conventional T-shaped casing (which is the most common case), then the role of such a seal is performed by the slopes.

Now let’s look step by step at how to properly install PVC windows in wooden houses.

Removing old windows

When dismantling windows in houses made of timber and logs, special attention should be paid to the safety of the frame, since making a new one will not be cheap.

In cases where the previous installation was carried out correctly, and the frames were fastened using self-tapping screws, the dismantling sequence consists of only three operations: removing the fasteners, removing the window block and cleaning the casing from the remains of the mounting foam.

Some problems may arise if the old window was nailed, to remove which you may need an additional tool - a nail puller.

It is important to consider that before installing a new window, it is necessary to inspect the casing frame. Namely: it is necessary to check for cracks, chips, as well as the absence of signs of rotting or woodworm damage. If any of the listed factors are detected, the pigtail should be replaced with a new one.

Let us note that regarding the replacement of the frame, you can find many conflicting recommendations on the Internet, among which there are those that claim that when renovating old houses, windows with metal-plastic frames can be installed without the frame. We consider this approach to be incorrect, since even an old frame with seasonal changes in humidity can create a displacement sufficient to jam or even destroy the window.

Of all the types of wooden buildings, only a frame house can avoid installing a sliding casing, but even in this case, the installation of the window is carried out in a ready-made wooden frame.

Unlike stone houses, in wooden buildings there is rarely a need for “pothole” repair of the installation site, since the casing almost always provides an even rectangular opening for fixing a new window.

The only exception may be a situation when it is necessary to insert a window whose dimensions are smaller than the previous one (the need for such a replacement often arises when renovating a bathhouse). In this case, preparing the internal opening consists of increasing the thickness of the casing strips.

Frame fitting

The most common mistake made when installing Euro-windows with your own hands is taking the original dimensions incorrectly.

Therefore, before you start fixing the window, you need to make sure that it actually matches the installation opening.

Fitting the frame is simple - 1.5-2 cm thick supports are placed on the bottom casing strip. The frame is installed on them, after which a visual assessment of the remaining gaps is performed.

If in any part of the window they exceed 2.5 cm, you need to think about correcting the geometric dimensions of the frame with the help of extensions.

Let us separately note one nuance - if the size of the gap between the frame and the casing is more than 2 cm, but less than the minimum thickness of the available expander, then there is a temptation to blow it out with foam without any size correction. Many people do this, after which they cannot understand why the expensive PVC window blows so cold.

It is important to remember: polyurethane foam is not a full-fledged heat insulator, and in no case can it act as a substitute for a window profile.

Window frame installation

Once the size of the frame and the opening have been matched, you can begin the main operations.

Let's list them step by step:

1. Initial positioning. It is carried out in the same way as fitting: the frame is installed on centering pegs, after which it is necessary to achieve a uniform thickness of the installation gap along the entire perimeter of the frame.
2. Alignment of spatial position. For positioning in the vertical plane it is better to use a plumb line, in the horizontal plane - a building level. Working fixation is performed using lateral and upper struts.
3. After the installation accuracy has been confirmed, secure the vertical points first, and only after additional check - the lateral ones. As mentioned above, fastenings can be long screws or anchor plates.
4. Immediately after completing the fastening, we recommend installing the drip sill, since after assembling the window, access to the corresponding mounting positions will be difficult (this point is especially relevant for windows located on the second floor).
5. Installation of window sashes on workplaces.
6. Installation of double-glazed windows. Please note that the glass panel cannot be placed directly on the plastic of the sash (special gaskets must be preserved during dismantling).
7. Fixing double-glazed windows with glazing beads (in reverse order).
8. Close the doors and check the positioning again.
9. We carry out installation of fittings.

Let us remind you once again what you need to pay special attention to when installing the frame:

• position of the transverse line of the window - for wooden houses it should run exactly along the center of the frame;
• the length of the fastening dowels (if the through-fixation method is used) should not exceed the total thickness of the frame and casing boards;
• To secure the outer “tails” of the anchor plates, use fasteners whose length is less than the thickness of the casing frame boards.

Window foaming

The next step is to fill the installation gap with foam. Despite its apparent simplicity, this stage has several technical features:

1. Polyurethane foam expands during polymerization and the force created by this can deform the metal-plastic profile. Therefore, blowing should only be done on a fully assembled and closed window.
2. If you plan to use a tape version of waterproofing, it is much more convenient to immediately line the installation gap area from the outside of the frame.
3. To simplify the installation of vapor barrier, we recommend cutting the tape and fixing it on the window frame.

Blowing is done from the inside, after which the seam is immediately sealed with pre-installed pieces of vapor barrier tape.

Possible problems if windows are installed incorrectly

Avoiding lengthy discussions on the topic “which windows are better to install so that the savings are truly economical,” let’s formulate a simple rule: any window, even the most expensive, will not provide the declared characteristics if it is installed incorrectly.

Therefore, in addition to strictly following the above recommendations, you must avoid the following mistakes:

• incorrect position of the window according to the thickness of the frame. The consequence of the error is freezing and condensation. For classic wooden houses, windows are installed along the center line. In cases where the house is lined with brick or lined with thermal insulation, we recommend contacting specialists to calculate the position of the window;
• lack of seasonal adjustment. The consequence of the error is a violation of air exchange standards. In those windows where this is possible, adjustment is performed using splines placed in the desired position.

Before starting the actual installation, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory measures:

• dismantling the old window (if replacement is taking place);
• cleaning the opening from dirt and construction debris;
• make the necessary measurements and calculations;
• drawing up a drawing and recording the opening measurement parameters;
• aligning the contours of the sides of the window opening if the hole has an irregular shape;
• leveling is carried out using putty or sealant;
• decide on the design and functionality (number of doors, their size, which of them will open);
• decide on the manufacturer and color of the product.

Only after completing all of the above manipulations do we order a window from the manufacturer, taking into account individual wishes.

Stage No. 2. Installation

Once the windows have been delivered and the necessary preliminary work has been carried out, you can proceed directly to installation. Tools:

• drill;
• construction level;
• chisel;
• screwdriver;
• roulette;
• mallet;
• pliers;
• anchor plates and bolts;
• window adjustment key;
• polyurethane foam;
• spacer wedges;
• spray bottle with water.

Important! It is not recommended to install a plastic window in a wooden house during strong winds and at low temperatures (not lower than -10 degrees).

Casing: purpose, types and design

The casing is a box-shaped structure, which is made of three or four boards and installed around the perimeter inside the opening.

The system allows you to install a plastic window yourself, so that the window is fixed independently of the main structure of the wall and has a floating character. The window system is secured using grooves on the side, which are placed on tenons protruding from the end of the logs and beams.

To fix and seal the casing, only tow, flax batting or fiber insulation are used. Never use polyurethane foam.

Attention! A gap is left at the top based on the wood's settlement.

Thus, shrinkage of the walls of a wooden building does not in any way affect the window, much less damage it. Depending on the fastenings, casings can be classified into the following types:

• into a thorn This design is characterized by the presence of a tenon, which is mounted on the side parts of the casing, and a groove, which is located in the logs of the opening;
• in the embedded timber. The basis of the fastening is considered to be a block, which is placed in a groove at the ends of the opening and passes through the casing posts;
• into the deck. The tenon is located at the ends of the window opening logs, but the groove is in the casing posts.

The box is a floating mechanism, which prevents deformation of the plastic window during operation, regardless of the type of installation of the casing.

Calculations should be made with high accuracy, since even a minor error can lead to deformation of the window frame or leakage of the structure. In addition, correct installation is the key to the quality of the plastic window itself.

How to make a pigtail (casing)

The design can be of two types: complex and simple. A simple window frame is the system described above, with bars and grooves. The complex design is performed somewhat differently: a ridge is cut out in the window opening, onto which a carriage with grooves is placed. This option is more reliable. When the walls shrink, the ridge can slide and does not allow vertical deviations, eliminating pressure on the window frame.

The casing is usually made of timber. Using a wood chisel, a 0.5 cm groove is knocked out in the center of the beam, and a tenon (0.5x0.5x.25 cm) is cut out from one end. A ridge with 0.5x0.5 cm spikes is cut out from the end of the opening logs. You can use a saw or chisel for this.

Important! Marking the ridge is an important point. The quality and reliability of the design depends on the accuracy of the markings.

After the ridge is ready, we proceed to install the risers and form the structure of the opening between them. The beams are installed level, taking into account the gaps for wall shrinkage (1 cm on the sides and 0.5 cm on top). The frame made of beams is strengthened with the help of grooves with the main fabric of the walls and dowels between them. The gaps left are sealed with tow or other fiber. That's all, now you can start installing the plastic frame directly. You can watch the process in more detail in this video:

Stage No. 3. Installation in the prepared opening

After carrying out the necessary preparatory work and installing the frame, you can begin installing the window.

Attention! Installing plastic windows in a wooden house without casing is the wrong option.

To begin with, we check the dimensions and location of parallels, the gaps between the casing structure and the frame. The margin for foaming should be: 4-5 cm at the top, 2-3 cm in width and height, 3-4 cm in the window sill area. Having made sure that the stock corresponds to these indicators, we proceed directly to installing the plastic frame.

The window is secured using special fasteners, which are sold at any hardware store. They are metal plates with holes.

Installation of a plastic window should be done level. If you neglect this factor, then you risk getting a structure with a slope, which significantly reduces the operational and aesthetic objectives of the window.

Advice! Before installing windows, the sashes are removed. This simplifies the design and makes it much more convenient to install it in the opening.

After the window is secured in the opening, it is necessary to fill the gap with foam. To avoid displacement of the structure during foaming, blocks are placed that will maintain the position of the frame without deviation. After drying, do not forget to remove it.

Fastening the window to the casing is done with care. In this case, it is necessary to choose the correct location for tightening the screws. Under no circumstances should a window be secured in the ridge area!

That's all, we finish the process by completely foaming the opening. We put the sashes on and let the foam dry.

We have presented the correct way to install a plastic window in a wooden house. This process can be difficult, so if you are unsure of your abilities, it is better to turn to professionals.

However, installing a plastic window yourself is a significant cost savings. We invite you to watch a video tutorial on how to install a window yourself:

Common plastic structures are actively beginning to give way to wooden counterparts. The installation of wooden windows is gaining popularity, since wood compares favorably with plastic structures due to its environmental friendliness and ability to “breathe”. You can install wooden windows in your house yourself, following the correct technology. The installation technique is almost identical to the installation of PVC structures, with the exception of some nuances, which we will discuss below.

Installation work front

In order to carry out high-quality installation of wooden windows yourself, you need to break the work into small stages, thanks to which independent homework will turn out to be a success. So:

• we clean the window opening and take accurate measurements;
• install the window in the opening;
• fix the installed structure;
• create isolation;
• adjusting and customizing fittings;
• We are engaged in finishing slopes.

Schematic diagram of installing a wooden window

The technology of work will be the same regardless of where the installation takes place: be it windows in a frame house or an apartment. When intending to install windows in a house, it is advisable to complete the main stages of construction in order to avoid additional pollution. By the way, installing wooden windows will be inexpensive. One installation will cost approximately 3 thousand rubles, excluding the cost of consumables.

Preparing the window opening

To begin with, the window opening is cleared of remnants of previous plaster and other technical residues. In the case of brickwork in which voids have formed due to destroyed material, it is recommended to eliminate them.

First you need to carefully and thoroughly prepare the window opening

The principle of the preparatory stage is to adjust to the required dimensions, which must be carried out with special care, avoiding noticeable errors. All surfaces are cleaned of elements of previous plaster and other residues. Installation of wooden windows in accordance with GOST requires the presence of a gap of a fixed width around the perimeter of the frame, which, upon completion of the alignment of the entire structure inside the openings, is filled with polyurethane foam.

Installation of a wooden window according to GOST requires the presence of gaps between the frame and the opening

It is not recommended to leave excessively large gaps along the edge areas, preferring a width of 10 to 15 mm, so that later the voids can be well foamed. A gap of 40-50 mm is left along the bottom of the window structure. This nuance is necessary for high-quality alignment of windows inside openings. Always remember that before installing windows into openings, the geometry and dimensions are first checked. This step allows you to achieve the correct work, eliminating possible distortions and disproportion of parts.

Sometimes craftsmen violate technological points by making wall lintels incorrectly, since the window opening is used as formwork with a window walled up inside. Such actions lead to additional financial costs equal to the price of a new structure, because the window frame is placed very tightly between the edges.

If you neglect the technological principles of installation, the structure will soon require replacement

In extreme cases, complete removal of wooden windows may be necessary. Do not forget the GOST recommendations regarding gaps, then the work is guaranteed to be crowned with success.

End-to-end methodology

When installing wooden windows, the through installation method is often used, which involves the use of dowels. The method is characterized by low cost and relative simplicity, allowing you to install the window yourself. Upon completion of the installation work, the fixed box will be completely motionless inside the window opening and will be reliably protected from the influence of environmental factors.

Through installation of wooden window blocks is simple and inexpensive

The occurrence of accidental distortions, various types of displacements and deformations of the structure during installation work is excluded. The use of dowels provides strength of fixation, which cannot be achieved with anchor bolts. Since the dowels are presented in the form of a hollow sleeve, it is impossible for the screws to penetrate deep into the wall. Perhaps these are the main advantages of the end-to-end installation system, which make it very popular among installers and customers.

It is worth mentioning the minor advantages. Firstly, installing windows using the end-to-end method will delight you with minimal financial costs. Secondly, it will not require special tools, allowing you to get by with a set of existing ones. During the work, you only need to make holes using a drill, secure the dowels and finally attach decorative plastic plugs over the screws.

Holes for dowels are made using a drill

Using the through method, when installing windows, you need to pay attention to the correct choice of the place where the holes for the dowels will be located. The four-stage cross-section of window profiles allows you to drill holes at an exclusively uniform level. It should be borne in mind that experts strongly do not recommend making holes in different places.

Mounting blocks for window installation

Do-it-yourself installation of wooden windows involves the use of mounting blocks, which makes the process inexpensive and quick to complete. Mainly used pads whose thickness is 50 mm. They are a block of wood impregnated with an antiseptic, which is installed on a waterproofing layer. The arrangement is made exclusively horizontal, running parallel to the upper edge of the window structure. To ensure correct installation actions, you must first free the window frame from frames and other components.

To install windows on blocks, you need a perfectly level opening.

The structure is installed inside the mounting block using a laser or simple level, carefully checking the levels on each side. It is advisable to make the top and side gaps the same, leaving 10-20 mm each. The number of pads can be determined using a graphic showing possible placement options.

Mount using plates

The plates can be made yourself, although many window manufacturers include them in the package. A simple technique is designed to make the fixation and fastening especially strong. The method is very simple to implement: the plates are screwed with self-tapping screws to the window frame on both sides, placing two of them on the top and two on the bottom.

The plates ensure reliable fixation of the window

If the window exceeds 1.5 meters in height, two additional plates are attached to the center of the product. As the wedging of the body inside the opening is completed, the plates protruding from both sides are secured along the edge of the openings with screws and dowels. Before foaming the seams of a wooden window, the protruding wedges can be pulled out. But it should be borne in mind that subsequently it will be necessary to carry out an additional check to ensure the correct horizontal position of the housing.

There is another simple way to install wooden windows yourself, which is highly reliable and durable, which we will consider further. When installing wooden windows with double-glazed windows or glass, they must be removed, which is very easy to do: carefully separate the glazing beads and carefully pull out the glass.

Installation of the frame with self-tapping screws is carried out without glass - it is installed last

Next, along the sides and top of the inner surface of the frame, places for holes are marked, followed by drilling. Before you start drilling, be sure to insert the frame into place and carefully level it using a level. Then screw in the screws, taking into account that they can be moved without effort, since the body still needs to be adjusted vertically and horizontally. Finally, a double-glazed window is installed and the structure is cleaned of dirt.

We insulate wooden windows

The correct technology for installing wooden windows ensures minimal thermal conductivity and excellent insulation, protecting the room from humidity and air masses. It is important to take into account that a high degree of the listed characteristics is achieved by the increased cost of the window, since in order to create a high-quality thermal insulation system it is necessary to run it along the entire perimeter of the body. In this case, preference should be given to polyurethane foam for installation, which is easy to buy in most specialized stores.

Thermal insulation of the installed wooden window block is performed using foam

When filling the space with foam, it is necessary to monitor the thickness of the applied layer, which should not extend too far along the edge when expanding. Excess foam will only stain the space and lead to banal overspending. It is also necessary to control the humidity, since water ingress is unacceptable to ensure adhesion and reliability of work.

Even a new recruit will be able to install wooden windows independently and efficiently. The main thing is to follow the basic rules and move step by step, without missing important details.