Wooden greenhouse with your own. Instructions on how to build a greenhouse with your own hands from wood, photo examples. DIY wooden greenhouse: drawings

As soon as the snow melted and the soil in the garden dried out a little, I took up a new structure for growing tomatoes.

There were doubts: to buy a factory-made greenhouse made of polycarbonate or to make a proven design based on experience. I chose the second option. In our area, polycarbonate, even with regular ventilation, creates too high temperature in hot weather: tomatoes bake.

The simplest requirements for a greenhouse

I have been involved in dacha affairs for a quarter of a century. All this time I had to conduct all sorts of experiments on growing vegetables and create various shelters for them.

Basic requirements for protective structures plants in the country:

• cheap design, which vandals are not particularly interested in;
• optimal conditions for growing vegetables;
• ease of manufacture;
• available materials for construction;
• easy care of the greenhouse;
• Convenient work with plants.

The issue of durability of the structure is also important, but my structures have not lasted more than six years yet. I make them from the most available materials: wood and film, and there are many features.

I assembled my first greenhouses from poles, bringing them from the forest. They were obtained practically free of charge, but preparation and transportation take time.

Then I began to use a simpler method: collecting wooden structure from lumber waste.

There is a sawmill in the village, the owner of which gets rid of substandard trimmings, selling them to the population for firewood. These are ordinary slab boards and incomplete profile bars, which are excellent for constructing a wooden frame.

Of these on homemade circular You get good slats for the greenhouse and film fastening.

At the same sawmill I ordered 4 six-meter bars 5x5 cm and 8 three-meter ones. They didn't sell for much. They brought it for free.

I debunk 4 myths about a greenhouse made of film

Widely established production of factory models different designs and polyethylene films is due to their need, although it requires a massive advertising campaign.

In order to increase sales, myths have been created and real facts about various materials and technologies. Our task, as a consumer, is to reliably understand this information.

Myth No. 1: film lasts one or two seasons

This opinion is real, but it is built on two principles:

1. Polyethylene really breaks down sunlight and wind loads: its service life is limited.
2. The way the film is attached affects its service life.

Which film should you buy?

Sale offers a wide range of polyethylene films for greenhouses. Among them you can actually find those that will last one season, or even less.

This is what my western neighbor’s greenhouse looks like in the spring after two seasons of operation.

Available for sale wide choose films made of polyethylene or polyvinyl chloride. They can be:

• simple composition;
• reinforced;
• with light-stabilizing, antistatic, heat-stabilizing additives and other improving additives;
• of various thicknesses.

I'm buying plastic film, but pay attention to the thickness. It should be 200 microns. Manufacturer: Polimir plant.

Its color depends on the added dyes. In cold climates, it is recommended to use orange shades. They contribute to the heating of the greenhouse from sun rays, but their service life is shorter. My choice is ordinary transparent varieties without dyes.

During the second season of operation of the old greenhouse there was a large hail storm. It penetrated not only the film on the greenhouses, but also the roofing felt on the roof of the neighbor’s barn.

I did not seal these holes with anything. They remain and do not expand over time, although they have turned black in 4 years, everything continues to work normally.

How to properly attach the film

The main mechanical load is created by wind. The windage of the structure is huge. If you make the sheathing of the sides larger, the air pressure will be high and the tensile force will increase.

Due to this, the film will constantly be subject to significant tensile loads when there is a gust of wind, like on a poorly designed greenhouse.

In the next photo I show the greenhouse of my northern neighbor. Its length is 6.4 meters, width - 2.5. But the height is a little small for me - 1.7 m in the center. As soon as I entered, I immediately had to bend over.

On this structure, the length of the lathing is about 50 cm. The greenhouse has been standing for the fourth season.

Myth No. 2: wood rots quickly in a greenhouse

On the one hand, this is correct. The humid environment, elevated temperature and soil do their job.

This is what the wooden posts look like in my old greenhouse, which were buried in soil for several seasons. I didn’t pay attention to this when caring for vegetables in winter, thinking that they were standing on bricks. I discovered it in the spring, when the structure was a little askew.

You can extend the life of wood by protecting it. It is enough to treat it with antiseptics or soak it mineral oil, for example, testing of any internal combustion engine.

A layer of waterproofing from the ground is important, for which you can cut plates from ordinary PET bottles.

However, all the rest of the wood on the structure remains healthy, intact even under the film.

Myth No. 3: it is necessary to build a foundation for a building

Of course it won't hurt. But a properly created foundation should be located below the depth of soil freezing in winter. Only in this case the greenhouse will not move due to frost and will remain stable when the soil melts.

Such foundations are needed for stationary glass structures that have increased weight. Glass is quite fragile; it cannot withstand bending or distortion and requires reliable fixation.

Lightweight structures made of wooden slats and it doesn’t make much sense to install films like that. Winter movement of the soil does not harm them, and a slightly moved greenhouse is not difficult to correct in the spring.

I use ordinary ones for installation sand-lime bricks, like my northern neighbor in the country. This is what his greenhouse looks like from the inside in spring.

Bricks under the posts replace the foundation.

Myth No. 4: the greenhouse must be installed strictly in the horizontal plane

This perfect option but we live in real world. My entire plot is on a slope. Moreover, the slope goes from north to south.

I don’t see the point in wasting energy on even a greenhouse. It has been standing well and tilted for six seasons now. It will also serve this summer, even taking into account the fact that, due to my oversight, the wood was in contact with the ground in some places: it was rotten and warped.

How to choose the optimal and simplest design

Height of the structure

It should be selected taking into account the growth of the gardener. Working in a bent position is difficult, and even dangerous in old age.

With my height of 180 cm, the height of the passage is 2 meters.

Width

Here you need to think carefully about the location of the beds for growing vegetables, as well as the size of the passages between them. My old design is made 2.1 m wide, which is not very convenient for work.

This is especially noticeable in the middle of the season, when the tomatoes grow: you have to trim them too much and tie them up. All this briefly eliminates the need to maneuver between them, moving with extreme caution.

In the new greenhouse, taking into account previous mistakes, the width was chosen to be 2.4 meters. The location of the beds and the passage remains the same.

Structure length

Here, each owner can choose his own size based on the need for growing vegetables and rational planning of film consumption.

My size is 5.2 m.

How to plan a wooden structure for film consumption

I assume that the film is sold in a rolled 1.5 meter sleeve, which needs to be cut lengthwise. The width of the canvas is 3m.

Let me make a reservation right away that the sale also offers six-meter wide sleeves. People use them, but I'm considering regular option. It can be placed in two ways:

1. along the axis of the entire structure;
2. or across.

Northern neighbor scheme

His greenhouse has maximum length, which can be created from solid timber 5x5 cm, sold at the sawmill. He places the film along the axis of the structure directly on the roof. Taking into account the slope of the slopes and the total width of 2.5 m, a three-meter film is placed without excess.

He uses the second part of the film on the sides. It cuts it into additional 1.5 m lengths and nails it to the walls. It is spent on:

• sidewall height 1.2 meters;
• allowance for fastening on top;
• reserve for burying the lower part in the ground.

The end sides of the structure for the door and window are closed in separate pieces.

Diagram of the transverse arrangement of the film

This is my option. Taking into account the selected side height of 1.5 m and the location of the ridge beam at a distance of 2 m from the ground, with a greenhouse width of 2.4, a little less than 6 meters goes to the transverse strip

I settle on this size and attach the film transversely with two strips. But I don’t hold them together with anything. Although I have met people who sew them with threads on a machine or solder them different ways. I consider such connections unreliable.

I simply superimpose one strip on top of another on the roof, creating common area about 20 cm. I use the small remaining reserve to close the joints at the ends.

I close the walls with the door and window separately.

Since each greenhouse is created for specific conditions for growing vegetables, stage of the project, its design must be carefully thought out and calculated. Only in this case will it be built quickly and economically.

Do-it-yourself greenhouse made of wood under film: my construction technology

Required Tools

You will need the simplest carpentry kit:

• wood hacksaw;
• an axe, preferably a regular and small one;
• hammer and chisel or chisel;
• nails;
• square;

I also prepared a drill and long self-tapping screws for holding the thick bars together. However, this tool failed me due to mild steel bits purchased in China. They wore out very quickly from the applied loads: I had to use nails.

Sequence of work:

1. I make the sides strictly according to the intended dimensions.
2. I place them at a distance from the width of the bricks, temporarily securing them with additional slats.
3. I knock down the bottom rectangle of the frame and fasten its corners with bevels.
4. Editing door frame, a window and pillars of middle supports.
5. I'm installing a ridge beam.
6. I'm knocking down the roof sheathing.
7. I correct the overall geometry of the greenhouse and refine the places where the film adheres.
8. I cover and attach the film.

Sidewall installation

On one side, three columns of equal height 1.5 m were used, as well as two beams with a cross section of 5x5 cm and a length of 5.2 m. The cross members of the sheathing were made of scrap materials. They provide a film mounting distance of 50 cm.

Moreover, my lower beam is spliced ​​with a mortise on the middle post in two parts. It is raised above ground level everywhere: this is protection from its decay.

By maintaining the same dimensions for all posts and beams, a base of ideal geometry is created for the greenhouse structure.

On-site installation

In the planned area, I laid out bricks under the posts and drove stakes into the ground to lean the sides against them. Then I temporarily secured all the posts with additional crossbars of strictly the same size - 2.4 m (the future width of the greenhouse).

I secured the structure with side slopes to the ground.

Thanks to the identical dimensions of the parts that form the rectangles on all sides, the basis for creating a clear geometry is laid. But it is not yet consistent: there are many distortions.

Adjusting the installation height of each column

To do this, you need to place all the bricks in one plane, digging or pouring soil under them. We remember about ramming.

When the area is horizontal, this is a little easier to do. After each adjustment of the brick, I had to walk a short distance and evaluate the result of the work by eye.

Ensuring right angles of the structure

Temporarily installed cross bars maintain size. Together with them, I embed and fasten those that will work permanently. After checking the geometry of the structure, I remove the temporary structure.

The problem of turning a movable parallelogram into a rectangle is solved by inserting bevels that form a rigid fixation of 90-degree angles. I simply nail slats in each quadrangle horizontally and vertically, assessing the position of the structure being created.

Installation of the middle part

On prepared rectangular box I’m assembling the middle part that secures the door, the window at the ends and the roof. I use six pillars of the same height.

This time the work was simplified by installing a ready-made doorway using the frame of a used sofa. I just placed it vertically on flat slate, fastened with bars to the mounted box.

Then I installed the rear end and middle posts. I attached crossbars to them and placed two longitudinal beams on top.

The ridge beam was fastened on an additional lining.

The roof sheathing slats were nailed onto it, supported by an intermediate beam.

Along the entire perimeter between the sheathing slats, I nailed the strips at the same height, made a chamfer with a plane, and processed the edges of the joints. This ensures a better fit of the film to preserve it.

Working with film

Taking into account the created design, I placed film strips across the axis of the greenhouse and secured them with nails through the slats. Additional pieces were used at the ends of the structure.

I made a door in the form of a frame from boards, covered it with film, and hung it on the curtains.

The bottom edge of the film was covered with earth.

I installed the window so that it opened into the building and did not interfere with caring for vegetables.

Within a few days of work, I had a greenhouse that was completely ready for growing tomatoes. If you do this work with an assistant, you can easily complete it over the weekend. The season starts in just a week.

I recommend watching the video from the owner of Green Planet, “How to make a greenhouse for less than $20.” In it you will find additional ideas that you can also implement in your garden.

I look forward to your comments on the topic of how you can build a greenhouse with your own hands from wood under film.

A greenhouse in the country can be made from various materials. The choice will depend on the personal preferences of the owner of the site and the number of available Money. Using wood, you can make a similar structure quickly and without large financial costs.

Wooden beams are a reliable material that can be purchased at almost any large construction supermarket. In terms of durability, the bars are slightly different from metal, but if they are treated with a special impregnation, it will be possible to extend their possible service life. Wooden greenhouses can last approximately 5-7 years, and in some cases even longer. Everything will depend on the climate of the area where the structure is installed.

To build a greenhouse, it is not necessary to purchase expensive wood, since it will not last much longer. It is recommended to choose industrial grades tree. During the selection process, you should pay attention to the quality of the material, technical parameters and the number of defects. To make a greenhouse, it is best to use timber without knots, which has been thoroughly dried.

Foundation for a wooden greenhouse

The base for the greenhouse must be reliable and stable. It is best to make a strip or brick foundation. Such structures have all the properties needed for a greenhouse. In addition, such foundations will not cost too much.

It is best to opt for a strip base. You will need to do the following:

1. First of all, you need to fill the base with a depth of approximately 50-60 cm and a height of 20-30 cm above ground level.
2. The structure will need to be reinforced to make it strong and prevent subsidence in the future. Such a base can be used for a greenhouse made of any material, so if in the future there is a desire to change the frame, then there will be no problems with this.
3. After this, the foundation on the tape will need to be waterproofed to protect it from moisture for a long time and extend general period services.

The width and shape of the structure will depend on the size of the greenhouse and the load of the frame, so make accurate calculations will not work.

How to install a greenhouse frame with your own hands?

Wood is much easier to work with than other materials. Therefore, there will be no problems with installing the frame. First of all, you will need to secure a beam to the base, which will be slightly wider than the slats used to construct the frame.

In order to secure the base of the frame, you can use a metal corner, which will need to be installed in the foundation in advance. IN in this case You can also use reinforcement, bolts or anchors. Before installing the carrier rail, it will need to be processed protective equipment– antiseptics, drying oil and paint. This is done in order to ensure a long period greenhouse structure foundation services.

When the carrier rail is ready for installation, final measurements should be taken and work can begin. To secure the base of the greenhouse structure and carry out the rest of the work, you will need to use the following elements:

• electric drill;
• fasteners;
• hammer;
• Bulgarian.

The base of the structure is attached along the perimeter of the foundation. It is necessary to check that the base is solid and its sides are connected to each other. The ease of installation of the frame of the greenhouse structure and its stability will depend on these values.

Next, the frame is installed. Installing it is quite simple, since the base has already been mounted on the foundation and firmly fixed. All that remains is to take measurements and perform installation using the diagrams. The diagram itself can be seen in Fig. 1.

All other elements of a wooden greenhouse, frames and windows, ceiling joists are secured using self-tapping screws, clamps, corners and metal profiles.

Manufacturing of greenhouses of various designs

Before you start building a greenhouse, you should purchase all the necessary elements.

Standard small wooden greenhouse

Figure 1. Diagram for a wooden frame.

The dimensions of the manufactured structure are 6x4 m. The product is covered with polycarbonate. To make such a greenhouse you will need to perform the following steps:

1. First of all, you will need to build a foundation. To do this, you should drill the soil 50-60 cm, pour the pillars through pre-installed studs.
2. On the posts you need to assemble a harness made of larch timber measuring 1x1 m. The harness is attached to the posts with nuts and washers.
3. The frame is erected according to the diagram and covered with studs. A diagram of such a design with all the necessary steps can be seen in Fig. 2.

Greenhouse made of wood according to Mittlider

The structure that will be erected has the following dimensions: width – 4 m, length – 8.4 m, height at the ridge – 3.1 m. The structure will have several slopes of different heights and vents, which are located under the ridge.

Figure 2. Diagram of a greenhouse frame on a wooden frame base.

To erect the structure you will need to use 0.5x1 m boards. The construction process is as follows:

1. The first step is to build the foundation. For a greenhouse like this kind of suitable monolithic tape 35x20 cm, which is secured with 8x4 mm reinforcement. The outside needs to be impregnated with a special agent so that the base does not crumble in the future. The structure can be faced with natural stone.
2. The frame is installed. Racks should be installed every 70 cm.
3. Windows are made in the upper part of the greenhouse. It is possible to provide automation for their opening.
4. Polycarbonate is fixed. In this case, it is important not to leave any gaps.
5. Finally, you should install a water supply system in the greenhouse, install a large container, and spread the pipes over several beds for drip irrigation.

To make such a greenhouse structure, you will need to purchase approximately 2000 boards 0.5x1 m. To build doors and windows, you will need to purchase additional small-sized bars - 30x50 cm and 50x70 cm.

How to make a polycarbonate greenhouse?

In this case, the frame will be made of wooden blocks 45x45 cm. The length of the greenhouse is 8 m, the width is approximately 2.8 m. It can accommodate the installation of two doors and several windows.

There should be a distance of no more than 1 m between the racks.

Each truss must be supported by several posts. The exception is the center pillar.

The sequence of actions will be as follows:

1. In this case, the strapping will be done using metal corners 45x45 mm or 50x50 mm. Using a grinder, make a 12 cm cut on the shelf at a right angle. This way you can get a base on which the harness will be attached.
2. After this, you need to paint the corners several times with anti-corrosion paint.
3. Next, you need to hammer the bars into the ground and check their location building level, and then secure the strapping slats with self-tapping screws, joining them to each other.
4. All joints will need to be reinforced with a metal plate.
5. The bottom trim around the entire perimeter is galvanized and buried in the ground.
6. Next, you will need to secure the polycarbonate on the roof with self-tapping screws and rubber washers; all other elements are secured using a press washer.
7. The end parts of the polycarbonate should be covered with a plastic corner. The sheets are installed overlapping and then processed silicone sealant around the edges.
8. The lower trim is treated in several layers with an antiseptic and then painted.

How to make greenhouses with your own hands under film?

In this case, the greenhouse will be covered with a light film. The procedure will be as follows:

1. A reliable base is made. The structure will be light in weight, so you can weld ordinary small-sized homemade piles. They can be made from metal corners 50x50 mm. The length of the elements should be 90 cm.
2. The piles are coated with several layers of primer and driven into the ground.
3. The piles will need to be leveled using laser level. After this, you can proceed to assembling the frame.
4. Installed truss structures. In this case, you can use 8 mm thick plywood, which is held together with PVA glue and self-tapping screws.
5. The next step is to install the sides for the beds. It is best to use slate with a thickness of 10 mm. On the street side, near the slate, you can additionally lay polystyrene foam.
6. After this, the sheathing is painted. It should be remembered that the boards will need to be treated with an antiseptic before painting. The paint should be applied in several layers.
7. Frames for windows and doors are being assembled.
8. The entire structure is covered with a light film.
9. In the greenhouse itself, you will need to tighten the cables in order to be able to tie up the plants.
10. Additionally, you can install irrigation and automatic ventilation systems.
11. If the greenhouse structure is being built in a cold region, you can stretch another layer of film inside it, securing it to the sheathing with a construction stapler. Even if used budget films the effect will be immediately noticeable.

How to build a portable greenhouse on foundation blocks?

The structure can be disassembled and moved due to its light weight. If the greenhouse needs to be moved from one place to another, a similar structure can be built. Its base will consist of several 15x15 cm bars. It can be made as follows:

1. The first step is to dig a hole down to a layer of sand, pour sand and gravel into it, carefully compact it and lay concrete blocks.
2. Next, you need to treat the bars with an antiseptic. After the product has dried, the wood must be coated with bitumen on both sides.
3. The frame is installed and then treated with the same antiseptic.
4. Braces 1 m high should be fixed in the corners of the structure.
5. A template rafter is made, with the help of which it will be possible to easily make all the others in the future.
6. Racks are prepared and installed.
7. After the roof is built, it will be necessary to paint the end parts of the structure.
8. The wooden greenhouse is covered with polycarbonate 5-8 mm thick.
9. To insulate the structure, extruded polystyrene foam can be laid inside it. WITH outside Cement blocks are installed.

What is the best way to cover a greenhouse?

Scheme of fastening a film wooden greenhouse: a - diagram of fastening of racks, b - diagram of a device for lifting the film.

When the greenhouse structure is ready, you will need to decide on the material to cover it. The durable frame can withstand any weight, so you can choose glass, film or other materials. The choice must be made based on practicality and quality of the material. The following materials can be used:

1. Film. Covering should be done sequentially, gradually passing through the slope from one side to the other. The film is gradually attached to the frame. It is recommended to cover the corner of the slope of the greenhouse structure with a visor, since the film is often damaged and moisture and cold air enter through the defects.
2. Glass. If you decide to cover the greenhouse with glass, you should purchase special stops and glazing beads. It is best to order glass after complete installation lathing, when the exact dimensions of the cells are known. The material should be secured firmly. The seams can be treated with silicone or sealant to ensure the tightness of the structure and eliminate drafts.
3. Polycarbonate. Covering a wooden greenhouse with polycarbonate is quick and easy. To do this, you should use special slats and profiles, as well as fasteners, which can be included with polycarbonate plates. This material is the most practical and modern, therefore it is recommended to cover the structure with it.

After the greenhouse body is covered with the selected material, the structure will need to be made airtight, heating and lighting devices installed in it, water supplied for irrigation, and a ventilation system installed.

Today there are enough a large number of various schemes greenhouses made of wood. You need to choose based on personal preferences. Making a greenhouse with your own hands is not difficult if you take into account all the existing nuances, follow the sequence of actions and have the necessary tools and materials for the work.

Wooden greenhouse on personal plot will help you collect wonderful harvest, regardless weather conditions. Industrially produced greenhouses and modern building materials, it would seem, should displace “outdated” buildings. Numerous benefits of wood combined with various facing materials allow the construction of reliable and durable structures.

This article will tell you how to build a greenhouse with your own hands from wood, provide optimal drawings and provide step-by-step instructions.

Advantages and disadvantages of wooden greenhouses

Wood like construction material, has certain advantages compared to metal and plastic:

• Ecological cleanliness - under the influence elevated temperature in combination with high humidity wood does not emit carcinogenic substances that can be absorbed by plants;
• The cost of wood is slightly lower than that of profiled metal of comparable strength and significantly lower than that of PVC materials which can be used for supporting structures;
• Ease of installation - to build a greenhouse with your own hands from wood, you do not need special expensive power tools. With basic woodworking skills, you can get by quite well. minimum set hand tools: saw, hammer/screwdriver, tape measure, Consumables in the form of nails/screws.
• Long service life – properly protected and assembled wooden frame DIY greenhouses can last 5-7 years.

Homemade greenhouse made of wood, in the photo there is a model with a classic “house” with gable roof, and glazing, on a concrete foundation

Operation in extreme conditions elevated temperature and humidity, combined with the intense influence of aggressive chemical (fertilizers and pesticides) and biological (pests, mold, rot, fungus) factors can significantly reduce the life of the structure. However, the modern chemical industry produces a sufficient amount paint and varnish materials and primers with bactericidal and preservative properties. Treating wood with these substances completely eliminates the problem of rotting.

Another disadvantage that is attributed to wooden greenhouse structures is too much shading. internal space, which is caused by thick frames. Proper orientation of the greenhouse on a summer cottage can help with this problem.

Choosing wood for a greenhouse

The durability and ease of constructing a wooden greenhouse with your own hands depends on the material from which the frame is assembled. The best option is larch. Combination high density and the strength of wood with resistance to decay, which is characteristic of coniferous species, produces excellent results. Spruce and pine are also quite resistant to adverse effects external environment, however, their mechanical strength is slightly lower. Frames and supporting structures made of these rocks should be more massive.

The most suitable deciduous varieties are: oak, hornbeam, beech, teak. The use of such wood is quite acceptable, but is not recommended for inexperienced builders, since it is very dense and difficult to process. Building a greenhouse from wood without special carpentry machines and power tools hardwood quite problematic.

Regardless of the type of wood chosen, it must meet a certain level of quality. An attempt to save money will quickly damage the greenhouse structure:

• The permissible moisture content of the bars is no more than 20-22%;
• Rot and blue stains caused by wood-boring beetles should be avoided;
• The timber should not contain an excessive number of knots, chips or cracks.

Recommended dimensions of blanks for frames 50x50, for supports load-bearing structures small greenhouses (up to 3m wide) are allowed the same size. For models with a slope width of more than 6 m, additional reinforcement is required or the use of rounded logs with a diameter of 60-70 mm or timber 80x80 mm for the central posts.

Device rafter system DIY wooden greenhouse, photo of frame attachment

Project and drawings

The prerequisites for creating a do-it-yourself wooden greenhouse project, drawings and diagrams is the choice of location for the building. It is recommended to use two placement methods:

1. Meridional - the ridge is oriented along the meridian from north to south, and the translucent slopes are oriented from west to east. This setup would be better suited for arched and 2-slope greenhouses;
2. Latitudinal orientation - a ridge from east to west is more suitable for lean-to greenhouses, in which the roof plane faces south.

On the site, the greenhouse should be located so that the shadow of nearby buildings does not fall on it, taking into account the seasonal height of the sun above the horizon.

Diagram of zones for optimal placement of a greenhouse on a personal plot

There are several types of structures that are most suitable for wooden buildings. These are mainly classic houses with a single or gable roof. They can be free-standing or attached to a permanent structure - a barn or a house.

Construction of a wall-mounted wooden greenhouse made of polycarbonate with your own hands, drawings of the structure and main components with specifications Construction of a wall-mounted wooden greenhouse made of polycarbonate with your own hands, drawings of the structure and main components with specifications

1. Stand – log with a diameter of 110-120 mm, height 220 mm, 9 pcs;
2. Bearing beam – monolithic or laminated veneer lumber rectangular section 60x100 mm length 580 mm quantity 3 pcs.;
3. Upper frame 2740x4500 mm 2 pcs. with left and right fastening;
4. Facade frame 2630x1800 mm, 2 pcs.;
5. Side (end) frame 4076x1800mm, 2 pcs.
6. Elements bottom trim– square beam 60x60 mm, length 2630 mm, 2 pcs., length 4076 mm, 2 pcs.
7. Asbestos cement pipe 120-130 mm in diameter:
   1. length 1200 mm, 3 pcs.;
   2. Length 800 mm. 3 pcs.;
   3. Length 500 mm 3 pcs.;
8. Filling with concrete - a cushion under the pile foundation;
9. Wall overlay.

Making a greenhouse made of wood with your own hands, the photo shows the process of assembling frame elements

Sequence of assembly steps

1. The preliminary stage of constructing a greenhouse made of wood and polycarbonate with your own hands is selection and alignment land plot, where the structure will be installed. Installation can be carried out on a base: a strip or column foundation or a wooden frame. For greenhouses small size installation allowed load-bearing pillars directly into the ground on metal squares. This installation method provides a strong spatial frame reinforced with additional jibs at the corners.

Video of installation of a wooden greenhouse with your own hands - step-by-step instructions:

If the installation of a wooden greenhouse with your own hands from half-carbonate is carried out on wooden base, then it should be reliably protected from moisture. To do this, used engine oil and molten resin (tar) are mixed in a 1:1 ratio, and the resulting mixture is impregnated with the base wood 2-3 times.

Sequence of assembling a wooden greenhouse frame with your own hands, step-by-step instructions

1. Frame assembly begins with end walls. The pillars of the doorways are installed on the base beams, which are connected by crossbars (1). The arches are assembled separately on a flat base. The wall studs are attached to the rafter beams with a plywood triangular plate (knit).

Additional elements for strengthening the frame when constructing a greenhouse from 50x50 timber with your own hands

1. After installing two end frames(2) the remaining frames are connected in place (3). The accuracy of the angle and height is checked using a rope stretched between the already installed frames.
2. All installed structural elements are connected by two ridge boards (4).
3. After assembling the structure, it should be sheathed with sheets cellular polycarbonate or films

As is known, increasing productivity - the main task for any gardener. And here you cannot do without a normal greenhouse or greenhouse. But too expensive designs are not profitable, and cheap ones are not durable. The most acceptable option is wooden polycarbonate greenhouses.

Wood is the most the best option during the construction of such structures. The price of such a building is quite affordable for almost any owner. And most importantly, the structure pays for itself in an average of 1 season.

Gardeners, summer residents and, in general, people living on the land, on household level, are excellent at using traditional metalworking and carpentry tools. This skill is quite enough for a greenhouse made of wood and polycarbonate, built with your own hands, to become your pride for many years.

Note! To be precise, a greenhouse is usually called a structure that has additional, artificial heating. The rest, similar structures, are correctly called greenhouses.

Choosing a site for construction

When making a greenhouse project made of wood, you should start with choosing a location.

We provide several tips that can act as instructions for...

• Naturally, the main requirement for placement is as much sunlight as possible.
• The second, important recommendation is that it is better to place rectangular buildings from north to south, along the longitudinal axis. With this orientation, the north wind is not scary for the greenhouse.
• It is also recommended to build closer to home.
• If the site already has outbuildings for tools, sand, sawdust, etc. Plan closer to them.
• If this is a dacha, with the traditional 6 acres, then there is not much space there and the structure can be attached to the house, but from the sunny side.
• A permanent wooden greenhouse next to trees is not appropriate, as they will grow and provide shade.

Let's start construction

When making a project for a wooden greenhouse, it is better to break everything down step by step so as not to get confused. This instruction It will also be carried out in the form of a step-by-step plan.

Laying the foundation

The frame of a greenhouse made of wood is a relatively lightweight structure; it does not require a powerful, permanent foundation. But we are considering a structure that should last at least 10–15 years, and for it a light but solid foundation is already desirable.

As a rule, a strip, strip-column or columnar type of foundation is laid.

In private construction, greenhouses 3m by 6m are more common. We will also take these dimensions as a basis.

• If your soils are fairly stable, . First, make markings using fishing line and pegs. Check the geometry by diagonals; if they are not the same, the structure will be crooked.
• Next, you should dig a trench about 30 cm deep if you prefer tape version and 20 cm if you lay a strip-column foundation. Foundation width 20 – 30 cm.
• We put up the formwork, we don’t fall asleep big pillow, 5 – 10 cm, from sand and crushed stone and compact it.
• Many people advise pouring a low foundation and laying several additional rows of brick on top. But we think it would be easier to lay reinforced foundation higher, since as a result we get a monolithic concrete bath. It retains moisture better and you can even change the soil to black soil.
• Next, when you knit the reinforcement, insert vertical beacons from the reinforcement or anchor bolts at intervals of 1-1.5 m. For subsequent fastening of the harness.

Important: during installation of the reinforcing frame, corner connections should be made from bent, at 90˚, reinforcement bars. If you do it end-to-end, the corners may tear later.

• If the soil is not stable, make a strip-column foundation.
• The general perimeter is laid out in the same way, but in the corners drill holes 1 - 1.2 m deep.
• Asbestos-cement pipes are inserted into the pits, or you can simply roll up a pipe from roofing material in several layers, insert it into the pit and reinforce it.

• Next, fill everything with the solution and wait for it to harden, which is about a month. IN hot weather Water the foundation daily to prevent cracking.
• For columnar foundation It’s enough to drill holes in the corners, make a cushion, lay pipes, reinforce them, set up beacons for attaching the piping and fill it with concrete.

Making the strapping

• The frame is a base made of wooden beams on which the wooden frame for the greenhouse is based.
• Initially, for tying, you can take a profiled beam with a section of 100x100 mm. And knock it down with a monolithic, quadrangular structure.
• The connection at the corners is traditionally made in half a tree.
• If the timber is made from freshly sawn wood, it may subsequently move due to temperature changes. To avoid this, you can make a 100x100 mm timber for strapping by connecting two separate 100x50 timber with screws or nails.
• The option of prefabricated timber is also convenient because it can be assembled from short timbers, plus attaching a frame for a greenhouse made of wood, with such a base it is much more convenient.
• Since the harness is the base of the entire structure and is in direct contact with the foundation. And in the absence of a foundation, directly with the ground. The timber must be processed.
• One of the most available options, impregnate the wood with mining machine oil, as a result, you will protect the foundation for another 10 - 15 years. Plus, the oil does not give off an odor, unlike creosote when using sleepers.
• Before installing the piping, waterproofing should be laid on the foundation, usually roofing felt with bitumen.
• We fasten the harness to the foundation using the reinforcement beacons left earlier in the foundation.

Installing walls

• The first thing to start with is installing corner posts. For them you can use 50x50 mm timber, this may be enough. But we recommend making more powerful ones corner posts, making them in the form of a corner, connecting 2 beams, 100x50 and 50x50. IN long term it's more reliable. And then it is more convenient to attach such a corner to the base.
• Next, when making a wooden frame of the greenhouse from polycarbonate, you should connect the corner posts at the top with 50x50 timber. If possible, connect with a solid block and then install transverse vertical struts in increments of 50 - 70 cm.
• If there are no bars of the required length, do it gradually. Install vertical spacers and, sequentially, fill the top bar on them.
• You can make wooden frames separately and then assemble the walls like a construction set, a greenhouse from wooden frames, is convenient because, if necessary, it can be easily disassembled and it is convenient to carry out fragmentary repairs, but it requires more material, and as a result, it is more expensive.
• Two vertical supports for mounting doors, they are made at a distance of 80 cm, it is better to make them reinforced, from 2 planks, especially the support on which you plan to hang the doors. And don't forget the opposite side for ventilation.
• There are vents in the side walls and roof, at your discretion, but each vent increases the cost of the structure.

Making a roof

How to do wooden greenhouse- half the battle, we already know, now we move on to the roof.

• We will consider traditional version gable roof with a ridge at the top.
• The roof should be planned depending on the amount of snow in your area. If there is a lot of snow, do not spare material and make a roof with steeper slopes.

• If the winter is not very snowy, you can get by with a flat option.
• If your greenhouse is made of wooden frames, then the roof can also be made collapsible from wooden frames. Then it will be possible to remove the roof altogether for the winter.
• But in collapsible ones, wooden roofs there is a risk that they may be killed over the winter.
• In any case, first we make the roof frame. A 50x50 mm block is quite suitable for this.
• We place the top beam first; we will mount the ridge of our roof on it. To do this, we knock down the rafters at the beginning of the structure and at the end.
• Next, if there is a solid block, we connect both structures.
• If there is no solid plank, then we stretch several strings of fishing line between the installed structures and, along them, gradually build up the upper beam and install the roof rafters under it.
• For our 6 meter structure, lay 2 intermediate slats, with an interval of 2m between the side walls, horizontally at the top. Place a spacer on them in the middle under the top beam of the roof.
• Or you can simply install 2 wooden posts supporting the roof, if they do not interfere with you in the middle of the building.
• In the case where the roof will be assembled from frames on the ground and then laid in sections, you will need to make a gap between the ridge and rafters equal to the thickness of the frame.
• The frame, in this case, should be placed under the ridge and then attached to the side wall.

Sheathing with polycarbonate

Note! Since we are building a greenhouse from wood, the polycarbonate for it must have a thickness of at least 4 mm. Plus standard sheet, 2.1m wide and 6m long. Must weigh at least 10kg. If less, then you are offered polycarbonate intended for other purposes.

You can attach sheets in different ways, but the most common way is this.

• The sheets are fastened using a special profile; it has the shape of a lying letter “H”. This profile has options for fastening directly to the supporting post and then polycarbonate is inserted into it. Or just end-to-end, between the sheets.
• The polycarbonate is closed at the end with a U-shaped profile. But between the sheet and the U-shaped profile, it is imperative to lay a vapor barrier tape. We categorically do not recommend using adhesive tape for these purposes, as there will be no air circulation and condensation will begin to settle.

Tip: in the end U-shaped profile you should drill ventilation holes in increments of 30 – 40 cm.

• Mount polycarbonate vertically to allow moisture to drain out.
• Polycarbonate sheets should be bent strictly perpendicular to the internal honeycombs, otherwise there is a high probability of the sheet breaking.
• To install sheets, you should purchase self-tapping screws equipped with sealing washers. Do not use ordinary self-tapping screws for wood. Water will get into the honeycombs and if frost hits, the sheet may tear.
• A special tape is placed between the polycarbonate sheet and the wooden stand for sealing.
• The holes for the screws need to be made a little larger than the screws themselves. For example, if you have 5 mm screws, then make the holes 6 mm. When heated, polycarbonate is slightly deformed and by making a reserve you give the opportunity to compensate for the shift of the sheet.
• Mounting holes should not be made too close to the edge of the sheet. Minimum distance from the edge 40 mm. Otherwise, there is a high probability that the edge of the sheet may burst due to stress.
• Polycarbonate sheets should be cut using regular construction knife. If you have a thick sheet, you can use a jigsaw, but after finishing the cut you should carefully shake out the sawdust from the honeycomb.

Conclusion

Now, dear reader, you have an idea of ​​how to build a greenhouse out of wood, and with your own hands. As you can see, this is not difficult and is quite accessible to any person who has basic skills in working with plumbing and carpentry tools. And most importantly, it is a great pleasure from big harvest whom you will treat, your family and friends. Good luck to you.

The video presented in this article clearly shows how to build a lightweight greenhouse without a foundation.

Exterior view of a polycarbonate greenhouse

The average service life of a greenhouse made from impregnated wood is 5 - 7 years When a greenhouse is made from wood, do-it-yourself drawings and the choice of materials depend on the personal preferences of the owner. If the wooden greenhouse is treated by special means, its service life is 5-7 years. But in order for the building to last that long, you need to choose timber intended for construction ( industrial types) and strictly follow the instructions.

Construction of greenhouses made of wood: why this material?

Currently the most suitable option for self-construction A greenhouse is considered a tree.

The structure made from timber is characterized by positive characteristics:

• The material will not be difficult to work with even for a beginner in construction;
• Wooden beams are well suited for fastening;
• If the structure is damaged, there will be no problem replacing the damaged part;
• This greenhouse is lightweight, but has excellent stability;
• A greenhouse made from bars does not require special care;
• Inside the building you can install necessary equipment, as well as automation designed for irrigation.

A wooden structure is not only useful and functional design, it always fits well into the surrounding landscape.

Do-it-yourself wooden greenhouse: drawings and types of designs

Often manufacturers do not use wooden beam, for the production of frames. Therefore, owners often build them with their own hands.

Moreover, the types of wooden greenhouses may differ in shape:

1. With a gable roof. The structure has a rectangular shape and is similar to a house. The slope angle of the slope depends on the terrain. When creating it in mid-latitudes, it is necessary to ensure that it does not exceed 30°.
2. Circular greenhouse. The structure is similar to a pavilion with six or more corners. To ensure the necessary air access into the structure, vents or tear-off windows are installed.
3. Arched greenhouse. It looks good on the site and, in addition, helps provide favorable growing conditions. To cover such a structure, it is better to choose polycarbonate.
4. Wall-mounted greenhouse. As a rule, it is used if there is not enough space to build another type of structure. Craftsmen advise using drawings during construction work and choosing the south side of the building.
5. Recessed or ground structure. These homemade greenhouses are designed for growing plants that require low temperatures for normal growth.

When building any type of greenhouse made of wood, a foundation is required. With its help, it is possible to extend the “life” of the structure.

How to make a foundation and wooden frame for a greenhouse

Some owners get by without a foundation at all. However this part structures are considered necessary if the greenhouse has big sizes, and also when the greenhouse is wall-mounted or recessed. In addition, you cannot do without a foundation if the structure is located on a slope. As a rule, the foundation of a structure is columnar, brick, or screw.

The easiest way to build a foundation for a greenhouse is to use timber

The frame is assembled after the foundation has been made. The first step is to cut the bars (8 pieces - 1 meter each and 12 pieces - 1.2 meters each). And after that you should take care of the blank racks.

1. First you need to take care of the joints at the edges of the bars; they are filed at an angle (45°);
2. Next, assembly is carried out by twisting two bars with self-tapping screws;
3. After this, you should connect the racks, which are fastened together with wooden beams measuring 1 meter.
4. The resulting structure is attached to the base;
5. Then the resulting four frames are installed at a distance of 1.5 meters, and they are fastened together using bars;
6. It remains to connect with inside(across the width, as well as over cross beams) 2 bars;
7. And the last stage of work will be choosing a place for the doorway.

When the base is installed, vertical posts are attached to it (each 1.5 m high). After this, strapping is performed around the entire perimeter. To make a gable roof experienced craftsmen It is recommended to use 1.2 m bars. Construction involves the creation of sticks intended for screwing to the harness (at an angle of 45°).

The frame is considered ready after installing the rafters and attaching the ridge wooden beam.

Oak, larch, and pine are the most suitable trees for the construction of frames.

Do-it-yourself greenhouse made of wood under film: description of the coating

Not only wooden, but also other types of greenhouses need covering. Most economical option considered film. But you should be prepared for the fact that this material does not last more than a year, so the film covering is stretched annually. It is recommended to take care of cutting it out on paper in advance.

Some people attach the film on both sides. This will reduce light transmission, but provide additional air access.

As a rule, the material is stretched in one piece. First you need to attach its lower edge, after which the film is well stretched and secured in the middle.

The final stage of fastening is fixing the film in the upper part of the structure body.

To ensure that the film lasts longer and does not tear, it is recommended to use it when attaching the slats. If the greenhouse is not used in winter time, it is recommended to dismantle the film. This guarantees an extension of its service life.

Making a greenhouse from wood under polycarbonate

To make a greenhouse frame for polycarbonate, you will need wooden blocks (size 45x45 cm). The length of the structure will be 8 m and the width will be 2.8 m. It is important that the distance between the posts does not exceed 1 meter.

For polycarbonate coverings, experienced craftsmen advise using metal corners (not exceeding 50x50 mm). It is necessary to make a cut on the shelf at a right angle (12 cm). This will create a base to which the harness is subsequently attached.

The next step will be driving the bars into the ground and attaching the strapping slats using self-tapping screws, taking care of their joining. To reinforce the joints, it is better to use a metal plate.

The bottom trim is sewn up along the entire perimeter of the structure, with penetration into the ground.

After this, you need to attach the polycarbonate to the roof. To do this you will need self-tapping screws and rubber washers. Further using plastic corner The end parts of the structure are closed. Installation of polycarbonate sheets is always carried out with an overlap and after this the edges are treated with sealant. Final stage making a greenhouse from wood with such a coating - treating it with an antiseptic and painting it.

DIY timber greenhouse (video)

Today there are many drawings of greenhouses to help you choose suitable option For self-made designs. To obtain a high-quality structure, you should strictly follow the instructions and ensure that you have all the materials necessary for construction.