Making a box for pipes in the bathroom. The best solutions for making a pipe box in the bathroom. Ceiling or wall option

August 10, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works(laying a foundation, erecting walls, constructing a roof, etc.). Internal construction work (laying internal communications, rough and finishing). Hobby: mobile connection, high tech, computer technology, programming.

The best way to disguise engineering Communication in the plumbing room - construct a box in the bathroom for pipes. I recently did renovations in a city apartment and designed there similar design from plasterboard. The result is a fairly simple and functional design.

Features of the bathroom box

A sanitary room is a room with a specific microclimate in which public utilities - water supply and sewerage - run.

Pipes in the bathroom are also usually equipped with monitoring devices (hot and cold water) and control ( shut-off valves). And herself engineering system requires periodic maintenance - monitoring the integrity of connections, cleaning filters, replacing damaged areas, and so on.

In this regard, the bathroom box must meet several important requirements:

1. Take up minimal space. Considering small area In a plumbing room, the structure must be made in such a size that it does not take up free space. But at the same time, the casing and profiles must be at least 3 cm away from the pipes.
2. Provide free access to engineering systems. The design of the box should be such that you or a plumber can easily access pipes, meters and taps for inspection or repair. It is better if the box is removable, but as a last resort it is necessary to install a sufficient number of inspection doors.
3. Be safe.
4. To harmonize with the decorative finish of the bathroom.

There are many more requirements that can be named, but these, in my opinion, must be taken into account without fail.

Choosing the right material

Now let's figure out what to make the box from. Most often I had to construct it for pipes from plastic panels and plasterboard.

A plastic box is more suitable for a riser in a plumbing room, the walls and ceiling of which are finished with the same material. Then the bathroom interior will look holistic and harmonious.

I prefer to use drywall. This material, when compared with plastic panels, has more advantages, which I listed in the table:

Characteristic	Description
Easy to install	Plasterboard sheets are easily fixed to a frame made of galvanized profiles, so they can be used to construct a box of any shape and size. You do not need to have any special skills or use complex engineering equipment.
Light weight	Plasterboard sheets weigh little, so they do not put additional stress on structural elements building. And to hold them, thin and light galvanized parts are sufficient.
Flexibility	When wetted with water and trimmed on one side, the gypsum board can be given a rounded shape, creating a spectacular and unique box in the plumbing room, which will become the central element of the design.
Smooth surface	Drywall sheets have ideal flat surface, which makes it easier for them to follow decorative treatment boxes You do not have to perform additional leveling using beacon plaster.
Variety of finishes	The surface of a box made of plasterboard sheets can be decorated with any finishing material. Most often, tiles are glued to gypsum boards, but you can also use wallpaper, paint, and lining (plastic or wood).
Fire safety	The described material consists of hardened gypsum and thin sheets cardboard, therefore it is difficult to ignite in a fire and does not support combustion. Under the influence open flame does not emit toxic smoke or combustion products hazardous to health into the air.
Environmental friendliness	The material has zero level formaldehyde emissions, therefore completely safe for the human body both during installation and during further operation.
Affordable price	The cost of plasterboard sheets is low, so anyone can afford this method of covering a box, even if the amount planned for toilet repair is small.

I’ll note right away that to construct the box you need to use moisture resistant drywall, which is colored in green color. It tolerates operation better in conditions high humidity and is specially designed for installation in sanitary facilities.

By the way, from plastic panels assembled on galvanized profiles, you can construct an excellent laundry box. Including portable. If you choose the color of the panels to match the tiles or the color plumbing fixtures, such a container for dirty things will look quite natural in the bathroom.

Tools and additional materials

In addition to drywall, you will need other tools and materials. Personally, I use this set for work:

1. UD profiles for constructing frame parts running along the walls and ceiling.
2. CD profiles for mounting the frame racks of the future box, as well as manufacturing stiffeners future design.
3. Dowel nails or screws with plastic dowels that will be used to secure wall profiles to the surface.
4. Building level. It is best to use a laser, but a regular water one is also quite suitable. A long tool is more suitable, since you will have to mark the walls.
5. Reinforcing tape for strengthening seams between sheets of drywall. It is called serpyanka.
6. Knife for cutting drywall sheets. Regular will do stationery knife with replaceable blades or a specialized tool.
7. Hammer for drilling holes in reinforced concrete walls bathroom.
8. Screwdriver for securing drywall sheets to a constructed galvanized frame.
9. Self-tapping screws for drywall. You will need regular ones (with a sharp tip) and special ones (their tip looks like a metal drill). The latter are useful for installing drywall sheets on the installation frame.
10. Putty for drywall. Used together with serpyanka to seal seams between sheets of sheathing.
11. Acrylic primer. It is used to treat the surface of gypsum boards in order to reduce their absorbency and increase adhesion to tile adhesive (or other decorative material).
12. Metal scissors. With their help, parts of suitable size are cut from long galvanized profiles.
13. Spatulas. Used for puttying drywall joints and gluing tiles.

Box installation technology

This time I will tell you how to install a box in a bathroom made of plasterboard, with the help of which you can not only cover the pipes, but also hide the installation for wall hung toilet(since the plumbing room in the case I described was combined).

I divided the technology for installing such a box into several successive stages, which are shown in the diagram below:

Marking

I'll start by marking the walls for installation of U-shaped galvanized profiles. As I already said, I will sheathe the installation together with the pipelines, to which the toilet will subsequently be attached. Initially, the future battlefield looks like this:

Let's start marking. Despite the apparent simplicity of this process, the technology has several secrets, which I want to talk about in more detail:

1. I mark the walls near the vertical pipes. This is done as follows:
   • First you need to find a section of the pipe that protrudes further than others, then measure a distance from it equal to 3-5 cm (minimum acceptable) and make a mark on the wall.

• Using a laser or water level, draw a strictly vertical line that starts from the ceiling, passes through the mark you made and ends at the floor.
• The same should be done with the adjacent wall. First, a mark is made indicating the surface of the future box, after which a strictly vertical line is drawn through it.

1. I mark the boundaries of the future box on the ceiling and floor. These will be guidelines for securing the profiles to the mentioned surfaces. The work flow is as follows:
   • Near the ceiling, a square is applied to the line on the wall so that its long part is perpendicular to the bathroom wall.
   • After this, the square is installed flush with the vertical line drawn on the wall.
   • Using a pencil, draw a line on the ceiling along which you subsequently need to secure the U-shaped profile.
   • In a similar way, draw a line perpendicular to the wall from the adjacent wall. The markup should look like this.
   • After this, you need to mark the floor in the same way, on which profiles will also be installed to secure the frame of the future box.

1. I mark the installation locations for the profiles near the toilet installation. In this place, the box will occupy a minimum of free space in the bathroom, therefore the profiles will be installed at the same level as the border of the installation frame. The sequence of actions is as follows:
   • You should attach a square to the frame, using it as a guide to make a mark on the bathroom wall that will be flush with the frame.
   • Using the marks made, you need to draw lines on the wall.
   • Check that the markings are done correctly using a water level. The marks must be strictly vertical and horizontal.

1. When marking, you can focus not on the dimensions of the pipes, but on geometric parameters tiles In this case, marking the boundaries of the structure is done as follows:
   • In the corner opposite to where the box will be placed, it is necessary to retreat approximately 1.2 cm from the junction of the walls (the thickness of the tile with the adhesive composition) and make a mark with a pencil. Then, through this line, draw a vertical line along the entire wall - from ceiling to floor.

• The distance from this mark to the intended location of the box is measured. After which the resulting value is divided by the width of the tiles used for cladding plus 2 mm for the seam between each.
• Then a mark is placed for the box so that after laying the tiles there is no need to trim them. Or so that the cut tile is wide (that is, the cut part is narrow). This way the box will look as organic as possible.

After completing the marking, you can proceed to the installation of galvanized profiles, onto which the drywall will subsequently be attached.

Installation of profiles

Let's start work by installing frame profiles that will sheathe vertical water pipes and sewer pipes. The installation sequence is as follows:

1. I install galvanized profiles on the floor of the room. To secure them, dowels and nails will be used:
   • First you need to cut the U-shaped galvanized profile so that its length is equal to the length of the floor mark. You can cut the part using metal scissors.
   • After this, the cut piece is tried on at the place of its installation. If for some reason protruding parts interfere with its installation, small area the profile can be trimmed with scissors and bent with pliers.

• Then the fitted part is pressed to the floor and a hole with a depth of 5 cm and a diameter that corresponds to the diameter of the selected dowels (usually 6 mm) is made directly through it in the concrete surface using a puncher.

• After this, a plastic dowel with a metal core is driven into the hole, which will firmly hold the metal part in its intended place.
• Holes are drilled in the same way and the remaining dowels are driven in. The distance between adjacent fasteners is approximately 20 cm.

1. I install galvanized UD profiles on the ceiling of the room. The sequence of actions is described in the previous paragraph. It is very important to ensure that all profiles are installed strictly according to the markings. Otherwise, serious difficulties will arise when installing intermediate profiles and securing sheets of drywall.
2. I install vertical parts on the walls. This also requires UD profiles and dowel nails. The work flow is as follows:
   • Using metal scissors, a part is cut from the profile, the dimensions of which correspond to the distance from the floor to the ceiling.
   • After this, the profile is inserted inside the parts that are already fixed to the ceiling and floor.

• Then the profile is nailed to the surface using dowel nails. First, it is better to drill a hole and hammer fasteners near the floor and ceiling so that the part is firmly held in place, and then make intermediate fasteners at a distance of about 20 cm from each other. It is important to ensure that the galvanized profile is installed strictly along the line drawn on the wall.
• After this, the vertical and horizontal parts must be fastened together using small self-tapping screws (“bugs”). To do this, you need to squeeze the two parts together with pliers, and then screw the self-tapping screw into this place. If this is not done, the surface of the inner part may bend when screwing fasteners into it.

• If the length of your existing profile is not enough, then you can build a suitable part from two. To do this, they are nested into each other at a distance of 15-20 cm. On the wall, this area must be reinforced with a separate dowel and screw.

1. I install a corner piece for the vertical part of the box. It uses not UD, but a CD profile, which has the required strength. The installation diagram is simple. It is necessary to cut the part to the required length, then insert it into the profiles on the ceiling and floor, and then fasten it together with small self-tapping screws, as described in paragraph 3.4.
2. I install intermediate stiffeners. They are made from CD profiles. The vertical distance between adjacent elements is approximately 30 cm. They connect the profile near the wall with the central part and provide the necessary rigidity and strength of the structure during subsequent cladding and operation. Make sure that the stiffeners are installed strictly horizontally. As a result, you should get something like this design (1 – wall profile, 2 – central profile, 3 – stiffener).

1. I install galvanized profiles for the box that covers the installation. The workflow here is even simpler:
   • First, UD profiles are attached to the wall using pre-made marks using dowel nails or screws.
   • Then the corner of the installation is connected to the profiles on the wall with another piece. All of them are fastened to each other using self-tapping screws (node ​​number 1 in the figure below).
   • Please note that in the case I am describing, the frame for covering the installation was attached after covering the vertical box with plasterboard. However, I describe this process here so as not to violate the logic of presentation (node ​​number 2 in the figure below).

At this point, the frame manufacturing process is completed and you can proceed to covering it with plasterboard.

Fastening drywall sheets

How to attach drywall to a made frame:

1. I cut gypsum boards into parts of the required size. Despite the apparent simplicity of this operation, it has several nuances that I would like to dwell on in more detail:
   • First, using a tape measure, you need to measure the width of each surface of the resulting frame, and then transfer these dimensions to the plasterboard sheets.

• Then, along the resulting lines, the sheets are cut into parts. To do this, apply to the line aluminum rule(or level), after which a knife cuts through the cardboard layer on the plasterboard and part of the plaster. The part is then turned over to the other side and broken. All that remains is to cut off the second layer of cardboard and trim the end.

• If necessary, technological holes must be made in the sheathing sheets before screwing them to the frame. To do this, drywall is applied to the installation site, after which the areas to be removed are marked. Then they are cut out using the same knife or a piece of blade from a metal file (for holes round shape you can't think of anything better).

• Holes are required for installing inspection doors. Usually they are cut in places where meters or shut-off valves are located. It is also necessary to provide access to inspection holes in sewer pipes to clean them in case of blockage.

1. I screw the plasterboard sheets to the profiles and guides. The sequence of actions is as follows:
   • To secure the gypsum board to the frame, black self-tapping screws with sharp tips are used.
   • You need to tighten the fasteners using a screwdriver that can rotate at low speeds.

• The profiles are attached to both the side and intermediate guides. The distance between adjacent screws is 20 cm. Thus, it is necessary to sheathe all sections of the constructed frame. I came up with this design.

1. I am covering an installation for a wall-hung toilet with plasterboard. There are several here important features, which are worth special mention:
   • I started constructing the box and covering the installation only after finishing work with the vertical part of the box, since according to my idea, the guide part is attached to the drywall.

• The top and side parts of the installation are sheathed plasterboard sheets in one layer, since during operation it does not experience increased loads, and the front side of the structure must be sheathed with two layers of plasterboard.

• To secure the gypsum board to a metal installation, you need to use special self-tapping screws (number 1 in the figure below), the tip of which is shaped like a metal drill. If you don’t have these, then before screwing in a regular self-tapping screw (in the figure below, number 2) in the installation, you need to drill a hole with a diameter of 3 mm.

• First, the first sheet of drywall is screwed to the front side of the installation, and then, on top of it, the second. All necessary technological holes must be pre-cut in both parts.

At this point, the process of attaching drywall to the frame of our box can be considered complete. I ended up with this design.

Now you can start decorative finishing surface of the box.

Finishing

I chose ceramic tiles as the finishing touch for my installation box. Although, as I said above, the beauty of drywall is that it can be finished with any decorative material- with wallpaper, paint, and, if desired, plastic.

The work plan for gluing tiles is as follows:

1. I fill the gaps between the gypsum boards. For this, joint putty is used. For example, Knauf Fugenfüller. To further strengthen these areas, you can use fiberglass tape - serpyanka. The work is done in this order:
   • The seams are treated with a drywall primer. It will remove dust from these areas of the box and improve the adhesion of the surface to the putty used.
   • Pre-mixed with water or already ready mixture You need to apply it with a spatula to the seams between the sheets, then carefully press it inward.
   • Glue the sickle strip on top of the seam, then apply a small amount of mortar on top and level it with a spatula.

1. Primer surface of drywall. It is better to process gypsum board twice. The putty can be applied using a roller or a regular brush. Processing in two layers increases the adhesion strength of the glue and, accordingly, the latter is better able to hold the tile on the surface of the finished box.

1. I am laying tiles. This process is described in detail in my articles posted on this site, so those interested can refer to them for the necessary information. I will not dwell on this process here.

After finishing laying the tiles and drying the glue using silicone

The bathroom is the place where any person spends most of his time. This room should always be as comfortable and attractive as possible. To make your bathroom pleasing to the eye, it is necessary to cover the space under it with a box.

This will not only help improve appearance rooms, but will also create additional usable space for storing household equipment. It is not at all necessary to contact builders, because you can do everything yourself.

What is necessary?

Creating a box under the bathtub is quite simple. To do this, you will first need a basic construction material: plywood, plastic, chipboard. However, for the bathroom it is preferable to use plasterboard, which is more reliable and water-resistant. He can also offer more options further surface finishing: painting, tiling and even wallpapering.

In addition, you will need the following tools:

• Plumb.
• Bubble level.
• Hammer.
• Construction knife.
• Construction corner.
• Hammer drill.
• Roulette.

To build a plasterboard box for a bathtub, it is enough to take one sheet measuring 2.5 by 1.2 meters. It is best to take a thickness of 9 or 12.5 millimeters; they are more durable and reliable.

Also pay attention to moisture-resistant options that, when exposed to water and high temperatures will not be covered with perspiration. The frame of the housing can be built from galvanized metal profiles or wooden blocks. If you are going to use wood, treat it with an antiseptic in advance, which will protect it from destruction and rotting.

The components must be secured as follows:

• To secure the components of the box, it is best to use hammer-in European screws and dowels, which are designed for fastening to the wall.
• If the blocks need to be connected to each other, self-tapping screws with a drill tip are used.
• If you use wooden partitions, take hardened self-tapping screws with a length 2 times greater than the size of the block itself.

Read how to do it in a separate review.

Work order

First of all, to successfully install a plasterboard box under the bathroom, you need to mark the floor. The first line should indicate the outline along which you will place the guide outline. Keep in mind that the sheets themselves are installed on top of the frame, so the boundaries of your box will be slightly different. All lines must be checked for perpendicularity to each other and to the walls.

Keep in mind that sheets of drywall should not lie on the pipes - at least 3-5 centimeters of free space must be left between them. Choose the width yourself depending on the available space. If you are going to lay tiles on top of the sheets, then the width of the box must be a multiple of the width of one tile. Once you have finished marking the floor, you can begin marking the walls. This is done using a special construction thread, which allows you to place the correct points on the floor and ceiling.

Fastening frame elements

Install the profile near the wall, and then construct two racks: the spaced one and the front edge of the box. If the width of the resulting opening exceeds 25 centimeters and the height is 1.5 meters, then it is necessary to build support lintels and racks. They are installed at an equal distance from each other. If you are using wooden blocks, during installation, be sure to treat the wood joints with a special mastic.

Installation of drywall sheets

Pre-cut the sheet of drywall into separate single strips. First of all, prepare the material for the side edges - in this case, the width of the strips should be equal to the width of the frame. Make sure that it does not protrude beyond the side edges. Secure the resulting sheets with self-tapping screws at a distance of 2-3 centimeters from the main posts. You can further strengthen the structure, however, if it is not very large, this will not play any role.

Facing

Once you have installed all the sheets of drywall into the frame, you can begin to putty the surface. This is necessary to form the corners of the box, as well as to seal the free spaces where it adjoins the walls. It is best to use a special plastic corner, which is secured with starting putty. After drying, apply to the surface finishing putty. This means that the box is ready for subsequent laying of tiles.

Inspection hatches

At first glance it may seem that the box is simple design from metal bars and sheets of drywall. However, when building it, you need to remember the features of the pipes and communications that you will be sheathing. After all, in this matter you need to create not only a beautiful, but also a convenient design.

In almost all apartments there are inspections on the sewer riser - special couplings with an outlet or hole closed with a lid. They are necessary for clearing serious blockages. If they exist, then it is strictly forbidden to sew such places tightly with a box - it is necessary to leave the possibility of unhindered access to the audit.

Exist the following types inspection hatches:

• Ready-made screen - it is sold in all construction stores. This is the simplest and most convenient. Today you can find a surface with any design; you can easily select it for your interior.
• A hatch in the form of a roller shutter - in this case, the door can move up or down, but it is impossible to completely disguise it.
• A tile hatch is a regular plastic box that can be tiled.

Advice. If you don't want to spend large amounts On the inspection hatches, you can build a regular frame and hang a moisture-repellent curtain.

The bathroom is a room in which it is always damp, and it contains water supply and drainage systems. A box in a bathroom made of plasterboard is made in order to hide all unsightly communications and make the room attractive and cozy.

Preparatory work

The work of installing the box is carried out in stages. For a positive result, you must strictly follow the instructions. Before you begin installation, you need to:

• prepare the premises;
• draw a plan of the box;
• apply markings;
• make the necessary calculations;
• buy all the necessary materials;
• prepare the instrument.

Let's look at the stages of preparation for installing the box in a little more detail.

• All walls in the bathroom must be cleaned of old coating. The paint needs to be cleaned off and notches made. concrete surface;

The process of cleaning bathroom walls from old coating

• Next comes a primer to improve adhesion;

Be sure to apply primer before installation work with plasterboard

• , if the unevenness is more than a centimeter.

Features of assembling a plasterboard box in the bathroom

How to assemble a plasterboard box in a bathroom for waste pipes? Bath wet room, therefore, you need to buy moisture-resistant drywall for installing the box (green sheets).

Do not forget that there must be free access to communications - this applies to taps and water metering sensors, so it is worth providing hatches. We must not forget about the hood.

In what sequence is the installation of the pipe box and the bathroom itself carried out:

1. Level markings are applied to the walls.
2. Then a metal frame is constructed from profiles for the plasterboard box.
3. Drywall is screwed in.
4. The hatch is installed.
5. Finishing is in progress.

Watch the video: plasterboard box in the bathroom to hide pipes.

The bathtub box is made as follows:

• make a frame from metal profiles;
• install drywall with the provided technical hatch;
• install the hatch.

Pay attention to the video: assembling a plasterboard box under the bathtub.

Important! When working in the bathroom, it will be more practical to use metal profiles, they are resistant to moisture and do not deform over time.

Frame installation:

1. Calculate the dimensions and apply markings that will be on the floor and walls in the bathroom.
2. Make a skeleton from profiles. A guide profile is fixed to the walls and floor.
3. Install jumpers from profile 60x27. The jumpers are cut to size and installed in 40 cm increments for structural rigidity. Secure the profile with “seeds”, 4 pieces per element.

Once the frame is ready, you can begin fixing the drywall and finishing.

Read also

Lighting on a plasterboard box

Selection of material and necessary tools

The first step is to prepare the tools that will be needed for installing the plasterboard box and the material.

We will need:

• hammer drill or impact drill;
• plumb line;
• laser level;
• screwdriver;
• roulette;
• pliers;
• construction knife;
• iron scissors;
• spatula;
• hammer;
• roller;
• construction bucket;
• whisk

Material:

• the choice of material should be approached wisely, since the room is damp and subject to constant temperature changes - therefore, moisture-resistant drywall;

This is what moisture-resistant drywall looks like with a light green or green color

• you need to buy with antiseptic components, and with deep penetration;

• the frame for the box should only be made of, since the wooden blocks may soon rot, and the entire structure will have to be redone.

Step-by-step process for installing a box in a bathroom

A box in a plasterboard bathroom is a simple design consisting of metal frame and pieces of drywall, but when installing it you need to take into account some points.

Design and drawings

No design is complete without a drawing on which the placement will be indicated. profile frame. Design cannot be neglected.

Example of a plasterboard box project

Don't think about what you can download standard project from the Internet, as in everyone, specific case, everything is calculated individually.

The box must have a technical hatch, so to install it, reinforcement from profiles is installed.

To prevent condensation from appearing inside the box, a ventilation hole is provided at the top.

The profile must be chosen rigid, since the structure must be rigid, otherwise tile may crumble over time.

When you create a project, mark all connections and their types on the drawing.

Marking

You need to start with markings near the vertical pipes:

• first of all, you need to find the most protruding area, you need to retreat 3 centimeters from it and put a mark;
• install a laser level and draw a vertical line along the entire height of the wall;

Laser level, will help you accurately draw markings

• the same action is performed from the opposite wall;
• then markings are made on the ceiling and floor using a construction angle;

Correctly applied markings - main stage plasterboard structures

Advice! It is advisable to install the pipe box in the bathroom based on the size of the tiles that are supposed to be laid, so that you do not have to make cuts. This will help significantly save on material.

Once the markings have been made, you can begin building the frame.

Installation of profiles

You need to start by installing a vertical frame from profiles according to the following plan:

• install the profile, cut along the length of the line using metal scissors, and secure with dowel nails;

• a similar action is performed on the second side;
• then the profile is installed on the ceiling;

It is important: that all profiles are installed strictly along the line, otherwise there will be a skew and the tiles will not lie flat.

• then they are installed end-to-end in guides screwed to the floor and ceiling;

• the profile must be screwed to the walls on both sides using dowel nails. The fastening step should not be more than 20 centimeters, otherwise the structure will be unstable;
• check the level of profiles, but before these;

Read also

Installing a drywall box in a toilet

• the joints of the rack and guide profiles are fastened using small self-tapping screws - “seeds”;

• install a corner piece cut from a CD profile, as it has greater strength and rigidity;

• install intermediate jumpers that will connect the corner and wall profiles. The distance between the jumpers should be 25-30 cm, you will get a kind of lattice. The stiffening ribs must be strictly level.

Assembled frame must be level, otherwise the structure will begin to deform

Fastening drywall sheets

Fastening sheets of plasterboard to the frame occurs in the following way:

• drywall is cut to the required size;
• attach the gypsum board pieces to the frame and cut them exactly along the profiles;
• cut technological holes for ventilation and for the hatch;

;
There is no need to leave the head of the screws or screw them in deeply

• The screw pitch is 15-20 centimeters, the screwdriver must be set to low speed.

Ready-made plasterboard box with a hole for the hatch

Wanting to make their bathroom more neat and convenient, many people decide to hide the water and sewer pipes when carrying out renovations. The best way to do this without transferring communications and with a minimum of dust - build a box for pipes in the bathroom. You can assemble a plumbing box with your own hands; there are several options available for this.

The most common option for hiding pipes is to assemble a box from moisture-resistant plasterboard. This is due to the fact that ceramic tiles, which are most often used to decorate bathrooms, can then be glued onto the drywall. Let's consider the main stages of constructing a gypsum plasterboard box.

Stage 1: marking

Before starting to assemble the frame, markings are made at the installation site of the box. The initial mark is placed at a distance of 30–50 mm from the most protruding element of communications.

The frame stand is located at a distance of at least 3 cm from pipes and other communication units.

Next, using a level, a vertical line is drawn along the surface of the wall, indicating the line of fastening of the frame. A similar mark is placed on the other wall, as well as in areas where horizontal pipes are closed.

Note! It is advisable to select the size of the box for tiling in such a way that whole tiles are used to cover all protruding parts. In addition to saving tiles, this allows you to create a neat and complete cladding.

Stage 2: frame construction

Assembly of the frame begins with the installation of a guide profile, which is attached to the walls with dowels along the marking lines. The step between the attachment points is 20–30 cm. The guide profile is also attached to the ceiling and floor to form the angle of the frame and install the front pillar. To ensure that the corners of the frame below and above are located in the same plane, first the guide profile is attached at right angles to the ceiling. Then a plumb line is tied to it and a point is marked on the floor where the lower corner of the frame should be located.

A rack profile is screwed to the guide profiles located on the floor and ceiling with self-tapping screws, which is fixed with 3-4 horizontal jumpers for additional mounting rigidity.

Note! Reinforcing jumpers are mounted taking into account the future location of inspection hatches providing access to valves and meters.

After assembling the vertical part of the frame, if available horizontal pipes a frame is assembled for them according to a similar scheme:

• A guide profile is attached to the wall and floor, which sets the dimensions of the future box.
• The front frame element is attached to the guides using jumpers cut from the rack profile.

All jumpers are also installed taking into account the location of the sewer outlet for connecting the toilet, inspection hatches and shut-off valves.

Stage 3: framing the frame

The finished frame is sheathed with moisture-resistant plasterboard, cut into pieces required size. GKLV is cut sharp knife: first, the cardboard is cut along the line on one side (with a slight penetration into the gypsum core), then the sheet is broken along the cut line and the cardboard is cut on the second side. The sheathing is fastened to the frame using black self-tapping screws in increments of 15–20 cm. The place where the inspection hatch will be installed is not covered with plasterboard or a hole is then cut out.

Note! It is advisable that at this stage the inspection hatch has already been selected by type and size and purchased so that you can immediately try it on for a tight fit.

Types of hatches used for plasterboard boxes:

Stage 4: finishing

Before finishing the box must be prepared, this is done in the following sequence:

1. All seams between the drywall are opened with a knife, then, along with the corners and other edges, they are sanded.
2. The seams are filled with putty, and sickle tape is glued on top.
3. Corners are also processed putty mixture and glued with serpyanka.
4. After the putty has dried, the box is treated with a primer in two passes, with a break for each layer to dry.

The plasterboard box is most often lined ceramic tiles: A continuous layer of tile adhesive is applied to the back of the tile, which is smoothed with a notched trowel. The tile is applied to the drywall and pressed, then the next one is glued. Having completed the installation, the seams are rubbed using conventional technology, and the corners are closed. decorative elements color suitable for finishing.

It is written in detail about laying tiles on drywall.

Plastic box

Another frequently used material for hiding communications is PVC panels. A plastic box for pipes in the bathroom is most often constructed if the walls and/or ceiling are covered or planned to be covered with plastic. Let's look at how to properly make a plastic box with your own hands when hiding sewer riser in Khrushchev.

Frame assembly

The frame, as for a gypsum plasterboard box, is assembled from guides and rack profiles according to a similar scheme:

• The guides are attached to the wall using dowels.
• Outside corner formed using a profile secured with jumpers. Fastening of all elements of the metal frame is carried out with so-called bugs or fleas - metal screws 13 or 16 mm long.

Advice! If behind the pipes there is free space, you can use any corners to secure a wooden shelf, and then install an additional hatch in the casing. In this simple way it will work comfortable spot for storage household chemicals or other items.

Frame covering

Conventional plastic panels are used to cover the frame. Depending on the size of the frame, you can choose a strip width of 10 or 25 cm. The frame is sewn in the following order:

If pipes pass through the box that are not planned to be closed (for example, heating pipes or a heated towel rail), then to carefully handle them proceed as follows:

• The starting profile is attached to the frame close to the wall.
• Cutouts are made in the plastic panel at one edge for approximately half the diameter of the pipe.
• The panel is cut to width and inserted into the space behind the pipe.
• A cutout is also made in the next panel for the remaining diameter, and the panels are connected to each other.

This method allows you to make a neat outline of the pipe, and the remaining gap is subsequently filled with sealant.

Note! During the covering, marks are made on the plastic panels where the hole for the hatch will be located and its size.

Final stage

When the box is completely sheathed, according to the marks made in advance, holes for hatches are cut using a jigsaw with fine teeth.

To install on plastic boxes plastic folding or rotating hatches are used, which are selected according to size. The hatch is attached using silicone sealant, which is applied along the edges of the product. The hatch is then pressed against plastic sheathing, and the protruding sealant is removed.

If there is no handle in the opening hatch cover, opening it is not very convenient. For convenience, you can use a regular self-tapping screw to screw on a plastic furniture handle that matches the color.

To make it more convenient to open the hatch, a handle is screwed onto the door.

Outer corner closes plastic skirting board, which is fixed with silicone sealant.

Advice! It is recommended to secure the outer corner with masking tape while the sealant is setting so that it does not come off.

The final touch is to fill the gaps between the pipe and the plastic lining with white sealant.

Collapsible box options

In conclusion, let's look at four ways to do collapsible box in the bathroom, so that in case emergency situations or replacing risers to provide access to them without having to break the entire structure.

Method 1

The plasterboard box is assembled independently frame structure, which is not attached to the wall. The box itself is glued to the already laid tile with a one-component polyurethane glue. To remove the box in the pipes that come out of it, provide quick connectors"American" type. If full access to the riser is necessary, the glue is carefully cut with a knife or other sharp object, and the box is carefully set aside.

Method 2

Another option for a removable box is that the frame is attached to the walls, as usual. Then plasterboard blanks are cut out along the frame to cover it, but are not screwed to the guides. The sheathing is fixed to the frame after gluing the tiles to the drywall: to do this, a hole is made in it and a self-tapping screw is screwed in. If access to the pipes is necessary, the screws are unscrewed, and all cladding (plasterboard + tiles) is carefully removed.

Method 3

To make it easier to disassemble and dismantle the plasterboard box, some craftsmen suggest setting the tiles on transparent silicone instead of cement tile adhesive. This method of fixation works fine if the base is drywall. When a thin layer of silicone is applied to the tile, it does not float on the base, and if necessary thick layer sealant, it is necessary to use plastic crosses to prevent the tiles from slipping. If necessary, disassembling such a box is much easier than when the tiles are glued with cement glue. From the edge inspection hatch the sealant layer is cut off hacksaw blade. Moreover, due to the fact that transparent silicone is used, it is visible where the screws securing the drywall are located and the entire structure can be disassembled.

Method 4

The simplest and a budget option collapsible design means assembling a box from PVC panels without installing a rigid frame. The essence of the method is as follows:

• The guide profiles are glued to the tile cladding using liquid nails.
• The starting profile is attached to the guides in the same way.
• Plastic panels are inserted into the guides, and the front corner is connected using external corner with a wide shelf.

This design has no rigidity, but if access to the riser is necessary, it can be disassembled in just one minute.

You cannot do without communication systems in the bathroom. However, water and sewer pipes are unlikely to give your premises an aesthetic appearance. Therefore, most residents, during the renovation process, try to hide all communications. There are several ways to implement your plan: hide the pipes using furniture, boxes, roller shutters, or wall them up in the wall. When choosing a camouflage option, it is worth considering the possibility Maintenance communications. So that in case of a breakdown you do not have to destroy the decor of the room. By installing a pipe box in the bathroom, you can make collapsible design or build small doors to access communications.

Depending on the location of the lines, the box can be installed in two ways: covering only the pipes or the entire wall on which they are located. In the first option, by covering only those areas where there are pipes, you save on material. Sewing up the entire plane on which the lines are located looks more aesthetically pleasing, but reduces usable area bathroom In order to somehow use the space in the box not occupied by pipes, small storage facilities are built there for various things.

What is the best way to make a box?

Before closing unsightly communications, you need to choose the right material for the box, behind which the pipes in the bathroom will be hidden. It must meet several requirements:

• have sufficient resistance to moisture;
• have light weight and thickness;
• made from environmentally friendly ingredients that do not emit harmful substances.

According to these criteria, from the commercially available materials for making a box in the bathroom, you can use: MDF, moisture-resistant plywood, moisture-resistant plasterboard or plastic.

Preparatory stage

Most often, pipeline problems occur at the joints. Therefore, the fewer there are, the better. If the box is installed after laying new pipes, care must be taken to ensure that the main line has as much fewer connections. If replacing the pipeline is not part of your plans, before hiding the pipes in the bathroom, you need to conduct a thorough inspection of them. Inspect all lines for defects and, if any, repair them.

It is believed that sealed and welded joints. But for fittings having threaded connections must be freely accessible. It is necessary to periodically inspect them. Therefore, threaded connections cannot be bricked up. It is also necessary to ensure free access to valves, sewer inspections, meters, and filters.

Making a box step by step

Installation of a box in a bathroom consists of several stages. Let's look at each of them in more detail.

Measurements and sizing of structures

Before sealing the pipes, you need to take the necessary measurements and clarify the location of the box. In places of unreliable connections, to meters and valves, it is necessary to provide a removable part or door. It wouldn't hurt to have a scale plan of the room on which all the structural details will be marked. When measuring, do not forget about the thickness finishing material.

Having determined the outline of the future structure on the floor, use a plumb line to transfer it to the ceiling, and then make markings on the walls.

Installation of the frame for subsequent cladding

Before sewing communications into the box, it is necessary to install a frame around the pipes. It is best to make it from a galvanized profile. Since the air in the bathroom is constantly humid, the use of wooden blocks is undesirable. If you do decide to use them, choose bars made from rot-resistant rocks. Treat everything before use wooden parts antiseptic.

The frame elements are connected to each other using self-tapping screws or using a cutter. To secure the profile to the wall, dowels and European screws are used.

It is necessary to mount profiles to the wall, taking into account that the finishing material does not subsequently adhere closely to the pipes

The first step is to mount the profile on the walls. Then the racks forming the front edge are installed.

Depending on the design of the future box, there may be several or only one front pillars. They are attached using their own curved edge or hangers

Then the guides are mounted on the ceiling and floor.

It is convenient to fasten vertical and horizontal profiles together using a cutter

If the length of the racks is more than 1.5 m, it is necessary to make jumpers between them. They will also be needed for a frame whose width is more than 0.25 m. The distance between the jumpers is no more than a meter.

For structural strength, jumpers are attached to racks with a height of more than 1.5 m

Using wooden frame treat the cut areas with construction mastic. This will protect the box from damage and prevent its deformation during temperature and humidity fluctuations.

Sheathing the box frame with sheet material

When cutting out parts for the box, try to make solid elements and not from pieces. First, cut the side parts. They are cut in such a way that the edges do not protrude beyond the frame profiles, but are flush with them. After this, cut out the front part of the box. It should cover the side elements.

After cutting the material, it is mounted to the racks. This is done with self-tapping screws (3.5-4.5 cm). The distance between them should be no more than 2.5 cm. Such a box will have sufficient strength, so it is not necessary to attach the material to the jumpers. For control weak points the pipeline is left with inspection holes with doors.

It is necessary to leave a hole in the box for free access to valves, meters and filters. It can be buried with a door purchased from a hardware store.

You can build them yourself or purchase ready-made ones. For handmade access points to the pipes, a door is made from the material that is used for the box itself. To prevent it from opening, furniture magnets are attached to them.

The door for the control hole can be finished with the same material as the entire box. This way it will be less noticeable

You can make a completely collapsible box. To do this, sheets of finishing material are attached to the very edge with self-tapping screws. When performing the final finishing, they are not covered with tiles.

Finally, plastic corners or plinths are secured. When it is necessary to dismantle the box, remove the baseboard, unscrew the screws and remove the finishing material.

Self-tapping screws, closed plastic corner, can be easily unscrewed to dismantle the box in in case of emergency. After this, the box remains intact and can be mounted in place

Final decorative finishing

The final stage of box installation is its finishing. It depends on the material from which the structure is made. Plywood, drywall and MDF can be faced with ceramic tiles or painted. Plastic panels do not require further finishing. They look quite attractive on their own. Unlike drywall, plastic does not reduce the area of ​​the room.

To decorate the bathtub, a frame is built from a profile

In the same way, the pipes under the bathtub itself are closed. First, the frame is mounted, and then it is sheathed, leaving control doors.

Moisture-resistant plasterboard is mounted on top of the profile frame and tiles are placed on it. Be sure to leave a door for pipe maintenance

Now knowing how to install a box, you can decorate any pipes in the bathroom and make the room more attractive from an aesthetic point of view. Hiding communications in the bathroom improves the design of the room. In addition, after covering the pipes with a box, the noise level emanating from them is reduced.

Video example of these finishing works