Hyacinth flowers: planting and care in open ground and in pots indoors. How to care for hyacinth after flowering in the garden and at home? Hyacinth in a pot - flower care How to water a blooming hyacinth in a pot

Hyacinth is a flower of the asparagus family, with a pronounced pleasant aroma. This is a versatile plant that can be grown indoors and outdoors. But in a pot it will not bloom repeatedly: this is only possible when transplanted into open ground.

Why are hyacinths grown in pots?

Flowers are grown both in pots and in open ground

Hyacinth is a perennial bulbous flower that quickly responds to the creation of favorable conditions with lush flowering. After which the bulb needs rest, which is otherwise called a “resting state.” During this period, plant organs begin to form in it, which will delight with its beauty for the next season. These are natural processes for all bulbs, and hyacinth is no exception.

But at home, you can change the natural rhythms of the plant and get beautiful flowers by the desired date. This process is forced and is called “forcing.” There are two possible options: in water and soil.

Depending on the timing of cultivation, three types of forcing are distinguished:

• early (by the end of December);
• mid-early (obtaining flowers in mid-winter);
• late (blooming in early spring).

Important! The bulb can gain strength for further flowering only in natural conditions. To do this, it is transplanted into the ground. Before the onset of frost, they dig them up and move them into the house. After which it can be used again for germination by a certain date.

When selling flowering hyacinths, a label with the text is often attached to the pot: after flowering, throw away the bulb. In this way, sellers inform that the flower cannot be re-potted. To do this, you need to proceed in accordance with the note suggested above: transplant the bulb into the soil outside.

City residents are often deprived of this opportunity and do not know how to properly grow hyacinths. You don’t have to throw the bulb away, but plant it in your local area, cottage, or any flower bed you like. It is likely that by the end of autumn she will give birth to 1-2 babies.

Proper forcing of flowers

The choice of high-quality planting material is very important for successful flowering

The success of forcing hyacinths largely depends on the plant variety and how well the bulb is chosen. There are a number of requirements for planting material.

Preparing the bulb

In order for the hyacinth to bloom in a pot, it is necessary to properly prepare the bulb. This applies only to the seed that is dug out of the ground. If an onion is bought in a retail chain, it is known that it has passed all the stages of preparation listed below.

1. Bulbs intended for germination are dug up in mid-summer. They are cleared of soil and kept in conditions of high humidity at +30°C for 14–15 days.
2. Next, the temperature is reduced to +25°C and the seed is kept for two weeks.
3. Then, until planting, the bulbs are kept at +17°C.

Boarding time

The rooting period of the bulb is 6–10 weeks, depending on the variety and quality of the seed. If they want to grow flowers by a certain time, they are guided by practice-tested deadlines:

• flowers for the beginning of the new year and Christmas - planting in the first half of September;
• by March 8 - at the end of October.

Soil preparation

Any small containers are suitable for planting hyacinths: plastic cups, deep disposable plates, pots, jars.

For planting you will need a certain list of materials and tools.

1. A drainage 10–20 mm thick is formed at the bottom. These can be small pebbles mixed with sand.
2. Next, add a layer of soil. To grow hyacinths, you cannot use sour. The optimal choice is a mixture of equal parts of leaf soil, turf and compost, with a little sand and peat added. You can also mix lowland peat and coarse sand in equal proportions. Another option is to buy ready-made soil mixture at a gardening store.
3. A 5–7 mm layer of sand is poured onto the substrate. This is a precaution to prevent the plant's roots from rotting.

Landing

For forcing, deep pots 14–20 cm high are used. As the bulb grows, it will inevitably increase and protrude above the soil surface. Therefore, you need to plant it in the upper third of the pot, and not at the level of its edges.

For commercial purposes, hyacinths are grown in small boxes, but each bulb is in a separate cell

The planting process consists of several stages:

• lightly press the bottom of the bulb into the ground (do not screw it in!);
• sprinkle with earth so that the upper part of the bulb is free and protrudes above the ground level;
• It is permissible to sprinkle the top part with dry sawdust.

Attention! If several bulbs are planted at once, they should not touch each other. In this case, the planting should be quite crowded. The optimal distance between them is 2–2.5 cm.

Rooting period

After the flower is planted in a pot, it needs a period of rest. At this time, the following conditions are provided:

• complete lack of lighting;
• air temperature +5–7°С;
• normal humidity.

During the rooting period, constantly ensure that the soil in the container is moderately moist. Drying out is unacceptable. For the purpose of disinfection and fertilizing, the soil is watered with a solution of potassium permanganate and sprinkled with wood ash. The duration of the rest period is 2–2.5 months.

Storage space for pots:

• bottom shelf of the refrigerator;
• cold loggia;
• basement or cellar;
• garage.

The rest period is otherwise called “cold”. This is a mandatory step in the process of forcing bulbous flowers.

The final stage of forcing

After two months after planting, they begin to regularly check whether sprouts have appeared. Once they reach a height of 2–2.5 cm, the pots containing the seed move to a cool, well-sun location. Optimally - on the windowsill. The flower should remain here throughout the next month. In the first week after the end of the cold period, it is advisable to cover the pots with a paper cap.

Attention! During this period of plant growth, the air temperature should not exceed +15°C.

At the end of this stage, the buds appear and the pot is transferred to the place where it will be permanently located. Next, wait for the start of flowering. Hyacinths do not tolerate excess moisture well, so they need to be watered regularly, but in moderation.

Forcing in water

To obtain a “water” flower, before planting, all the same steps are followed as when growing in a pot. It is important to choose the right water container. It should be such that the bulb does not sink in the liquid, but comes into contact with it with its lower, root part. In order to achieve this, you can use various devices. A good choice is narrow glasses.

The water must be clean: rainwater or filtered. The container must be wrapped in dark paper and the plants should be sent to a cool place to go through the cold period. All this time, monitor the fluid level and top it up in a timely manner. After the first roots appear, fertilizer is added. For example, "Kornevin".

How to choose a good, healthy plant in the store

Flowers bought in a hypermarket need special care, which is sometimes impossible to provide at home.

The success of growing hyacinth in a pot directly depends on the quality of the seed. In order to avoid mistakes, the following rules are recommended.

1. For forcing, bulbs with a diameter of at least 50 mm are used. If hyacinths are to be grown in the garden, finer seeding material will be suitable.
2. Depending on the variety, the maximum permissible diameter of bulbs for growing hyacinth in a pot is 40–60 mm.

Requirements for the appearance and quality of seed:

• absence of rot and mechanical damage;
• smooth surface;
• absence of traces of pests and diseases;
• structure that is hard to the touch.

Important! The main criterion for choosing hyacinth for growing in a pot is the ratio of the diameter of the bulb and its bottom. It should be 1.5–1.6:1. For unsuitable seed, this ratio is much lower.

You brought a purchased flower home, how should you care for it?

Typically, flowering hyacinths are not replanted, but this rule does not apply to plants purchased in garden stores.

Hyacinth bulbs can be purchased at any time of the year. If there is no intention to immediately send it for forcing, then place it in a cool place for storage at a temperature of 6–9°C. This will stop the growth processes and begin a period of rest. If a bulb is purchased in a pot, it is placed in a well-lit place for forcing.

Is it worth replanting from a store pot?

As to whether it is necessary to replant hyacinth from a store pot, flower growers have differing opinions. Some believe that it is undesirable to injure a flower by transplanting. Others do not see any danger to the plant in this process. In order to decide what to do next, we evaluate the situation according to several parameters:

• flower condition: rooted bulb, there are sprouts, blooming;
• pot size;
• what will be done with the plant after it blooms.

Most often, hyacinths are sold in their best commercial form: blooming. Moreover, the bulbs are planted in such small containers that the soil is almost invisible. The vegetation of plants in such conditions is maintained by watering with chemicals. Once this process stops, the flower may die. Therefore, in order to save the life of the flower, after purchase, the hyacinth must be transplanted into a pot with soil, regardless of whether it blooms or not. If it was purchased in a container with a sufficient amount of substrate, it is better to refrain from replanting. After the hyacinth has bloomed, the bulb is dug up and sent for a period of rest.

Conditions for growing hyacinth in a pot

Try not to place hyacinths on windowsills, where there is a high probability of drying out from radiators

A pot of hyacinth is placed in any bright, warm place. Proximity to heating devices: radiators and various heaters is undesirable. For normal growing season, the plant needs room temperature.

During the period of ripening of the buds, hyacinth can be illuminated in the evenings with an incandescent or fluorescent lamp. The optimal temperature for flowering is 20°C. Watering should be moderate but constant. The soil should not be allowed to dry out. It is important to prevent water from getting on the top of the bulb and in the axils of the leaves.

Therefore, water is added at the edge of the pot. This will inevitably cause gradual erosion of the substrate. In order to avoid this, the container with the flower is periodically turned. This is also useful for making the plant trunk grow vertical. If necessary (if the soil is not nutritious enough), fertilizing with mineral fertilizers is possible.

The conditions listed above are considered ideal for growing hyacinth in a pot. But it is not always possible to provide them. However, there is no need to worry about this: hyacinth is quite unpretentious and will definitely bloom at room temperature and normal indoor lighting.

What care should be given to hyacinth after flowering?

Inexperienced flower growers are at a loss as to what to do with hyacinth after it has bloomed. It all depends on whether they intend to get another full-fledged plant from this bulb. If not, the flower is dug up and thrown away. But you can do it differently: dig up the bulb and transplant it into the garden. Here it will rest and produce new flowers, provided it is properly cared for.

If you intend to start propagating and further growing hyacinths, proceed as follows.

1. When the plant fades, cut off the flower.
2. Continue moderate watering and fertilizing until the remaining leaves on the trunk wither. During this period, the bulb will gradually increase in size and babies may appear.
3. Next, the bulb is removed from the soil and cleaned of dried leaves. If there are children, separate them.
4. Those bulbs that have flowered after forcing are not suitable for replanting. But they can be planted in the ground in a flower bed or garden.

The maximum “lifespan” of hyacinth bulbs is 10 years. All this time they produce flowers once every 1–2 years.

Planting in open ground

Coachman hyacinth bulbs are planted only when they want to get lush flowering

On average, hyacinths bloom for 1.5–2 weeks. At the final stage, drying of the peduncle and leaves is observed. From this point on, watering is gradually reduced and stopped completely after the flower dries.

Attention! You cannot cut off the green mass and flowers before they dry out, since during this period there is an outflow of nutrients into the bulb.

The peeled onion is planted in the ground at a temperature of +20–30°C. The optimal period is the first half of autumn. Planting is carried out to a depth of 10–12 cm on dense heavy soils and 12–15 cm on loose and light soils.

1. A hole of appropriate depth is formed.
2. Pour a 1–2 cm layer of sand onto the bottom.
3. The distance between the bulbs is 8–9 cm.
4. Before frost, cover the planting site with a 10 cm layer of mulch.

Diseases and pests

Like any other plant, this flower can be affected by various diseases and pests. The most common ones when growing hyacinths in pots are the following.

Yellow bacterial rot

When the disease occurs, the leaves of the plant are affected, and then the bulbs (orchid in the photo)

The disease is accompanied by liquefaction of the bulb, a pronounced unpleasant odor, and cessation of plant growth. At the initial stage of yellow rot infection, gray spots appear on the leaves.

The disease is caused by pathogenic microorganisms found in contaminated soil. Signs of the disease:

• brown small depressions on flowers and leaves;
• the tips of the leaves become covered with mycelium, become thinner and destroyed;
• the roots rot.

The decay process accelerates as the air temperature rises.

Mosaic

First the leaves wither, and then the whole plant.

Chaotically located elongated light green spots appear on the leaves and flowers. The affected areas begin to turn yellow and dry out. Plant growth slows down. Possible death.

Gray rot

Gray rot leads to the death of bulbs (pictured is a tulip bulb)

Most often it affects plants during the period of early growth. The disease is characterized by the formation of yellow spots, which gradually increase in size and acquire a brown color. The roots begin to rot quite quickly. The plant dies.

Pests

When grown outdoors, the most dangerous pests for hyacinths are aphids and thrips. They take sap from the plant, which leads to the drying of flowers and leaves. To prevent damage, spray with aphicides. The most effective are “Fitoverm”, “Akarin”, “Accord”.

Possible problems when growing hyacinths: table

A novice gardener will be helped by a table of possible mistakes when growing hyacinths in a pot and how to correct them.

Propagation of hyacinths at home

In nature, hyacinth reproduces by children. Moreover, the bulbs take a very long time to grow: 3–5 years. For obvious reasons, this method is of little use for home propagation. Over the years of breeding bulbous flowers, several optimal methods for their propagation have been found:

• seeds;
• children;
• cuttings;
• cutting out the bottom;
• dissection of the bulb (reproduction by scales).

The first method of propagation is the most labor-intensive and time-consuming: by seeds. It is most often used if you want to get flowers of a rare variety, the bulbs of which are not commercially available.

Reproduction by children

Reproduction by children is the easiest

Highly productive, most commonly used method. Beneficial for several reasons:

• the first flowering occurs in the third year after planting;
• all characteristics of the mother plant are inherited;
• high survival rate.

Stimulation of the formation of children is carried out by cutting the bottom of the mother's bulb crosswise.

Cuttings

Cuttings are harvested during the formation of buds.

1. Select a leaf with a cutting and cut it as close to the plant trunk as possible.
2. The cut is treated with a disinfectant and growth-stimulating drug.
3. Planted in a container with a substrate or under a film.

After 3–4 weeks, rooting occurs. After 50–60 days, the first shoots of a new plant appear. In the first two years, the bulb is not dug up; it is left to overwinter under a thick layer of mulch.

Cutting the bottom

This method is best used by experienced gardeners.

With this method of propagation, large bulbs are used. The sequence of actions is as follows:

• wash the seed from soil residues;
• laid to dry for 5–7 days;
• Using a sharp knife, cut out the bottom of the bulbs so that a cone-shaped hole is obtained;
• the cut site on the bulb and the cut bottom is treated with a fungicide solution (crushed charcoal can be used);
• The cut bottoms are laid cut side up and covered with plastic wrap.

The first babies with a diameter of 5–10 mm appear after 2–3 months. If the air temperature allows (not lower than +30°C), you can plant in the ground.

Bulb dissection

This method of propagation requires dense, large bulbs. Using a sharp knife, they are divided into 5-6 parts. Each slice is disassembled into scales. All sections are treated with a disinfectant. The resulting seed is stored in plastic bags. In the first month at a temperature of +20–25°C, in the second – +17–20°C.

If you wish, you can grow beautiful hyacinths in a pot at home. Detailed instructions on each stage of preparation and germination of seed and caring for a flowering plant will help with this.

In the cold winter and at the very beginning of spring, flower shop counters are decorated with many bright hyacinths. These magnificent bulbous plants not only delight the eye, but also spread a strong and very pleasant aroma around them. After flowering, hyacinths are usually thrown away, because it is considered to be a rather difficult plant to care for. This is partly true: growing hyacinths indoors does not always lead to successful results - much depends on the specific plant and the conditions. In the open ground at the dacha, hyacinths periodically freeze out or die from constant stagnation of moisture. But still, the amazing beauty, enchanting aroma and affordable price make the attempt to grow this delightful flower completely justified.

Location/lighting

Most flowering plants love bright light, and hyacinths are no exception. Light is especially important before flowering: it is a sufficient amount of it that “awakens” dormant flower buds, affects the size of the flowers, their number and even the saturation of the shade. Therefore, during growth, hyacinths feel best on a bright windowsill and tolerate direct sunlight well.

During the flowering period, if desired, hyacinth can be placed in any place in the back of the room - during this period the plant can get by with less light. Moreover, this will even prolong flowering: in direct sunlight, flowers often overheat and wither faster.

How to grow hyacinths at home: watering and fertilizing

Bulbous plants are most afraid of excessive soil moisture: due to constant stagnation of moisture, they easily rot and die. Therefore, you need to water hyacinths little by little as the top layer of soil dries out. It is advisable to use settled water at room temperature and not pour it directly onto the bulb - try to water the plant along the edges of the pot or use the bottom watering method through a tray (water is poured into it and left for 15-20 minutes until the required amount of moisture is absorbed into the soil, after then the remaining water is drained). The most frequent watering (after about 1-2 days) is required for hyacinth during the flowering period - the plant actively consumes moisture, and its absence can lead to premature withering of the buds.

Fertilizers play a very important role in the development and flowering of hyacinths. As soon as new leaves begin to grow, the plant needs to be fed with complex mineral fertilizer every 10 days to stimulate growth. When the flower arrow appears, the fertilizer is changed to phosphorus-potassium to ensure lush and long flowering (it is applied every 2 weeks until the buds open). During flowering, hyacinths are not fertilized. After flowering ends and before the leaves begin to turn yellow, it is necessary to apply complex mineral or nitrogen fertilizer every 14 days.

Cyclicity of growth and dormancy

Bloom is the peak of activity, after which the plant gradually reduces the rate of its development and goes into a period of rest - “falls asleep” in order to accumulate strength for the next cycle of activity. When growing hyacinths, it is very important to understand the cyclical nature of their development in order to create the right conditions for the plant.

After flowering Flower stalks (flower shoots) of hyacinths are cut off, but green leaves are left. At this time, the bulb grows, accumulates nutrients, and “babies” are formed. Therefore, the plant needs light, regular watering and fertilizer.

When the hyacinth leaves begin to turn yellow, fertilizing should be stopped and watering reduced to a minimum. After the leaves have completely dried, they are removed and the pot with the plant is placed in a dark, cool place - this is where it will “hibernate” for the next 2-3 months. To prevent the bulb from drying out at all, water the soil rarely and very moderately.

If you plan to transplant the hyacinth into another pot, during the dormant period the bulb must be pulled out of the ground, washed, dried, removed all damaged parts, separated from it large “babies”, and stored for 3 months in a dry, cool, dark place, periodically sprayed with fine water dust so that it does not dry out.

End of the rest period can occur naturally (the bulb will sprout) or artificially - the pot is placed in a warm, bright place, and, after the sprouts appear, they begin to regularly water and fertilize the plant.

Transfer

At home, hyacinths do not need frequent replanting and too much soil. It is better to plant them in shallow, wide pots with drainage holes, in which there will be enough space around the bulb for the development of the “babies”. Compositions look very impressive when several bulbs of the same variety or different varieties are planted in one container at once, between which it is necessary to leave at least 5 cm of free space for growth and development.

You can take ready-made soil - for indoor flowering plants, or prepare it yourself by mixing 2 parts turf soil, 1 part sand and 1 part peat. Since the bulbs are susceptible to bacterial and fungal diseases and can be damaged by pests, before planting the soil should be heated for half an hour in an oven preheated to 180°C, and after cooling, poured with a weak solution of potassium permanganate to completely disinfect it.

A layer of expanded clay is poured onto the bottom of the pot for good drainage. Then a layer of earth is added, and a layer of sand 1-2 cm thick is poured directly under the bulb to prevent its bottom from rotting due to stagnant moisture.

You should not bury the entire bulb - usually 1/3 or even half of the bulb is left above the ground so that you can clearly see it when watering and avoid water getting on its surface. In some cases, bulbs are planted on the surface of the ground, practically without burying. This is not very good, because with such planting the plant is kept unstable in the pot, and this injures its root system.

Quartblog Digest

How to grow hyacinth correctly: today we will talk about growing them in open ground, safety measures and some interesting facts related to these plants.

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We buy indoor plants that will grow and delight us for many years. The quartblog will tell you how to make the right choice!

We will tell you about the basic rules for planting bulbs, which will ensure their healthy growth and long-lasting lush flowering. We plant bulbs correctly in spring and autumn, depending on the type!

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In the winter months, forcing hyacinths—small bulbs with leaves and an inflorescence—go on sale. Faded hyacinths should not be thrown away. They are easy to save and then plant on the site. Next year these hyacinths will bloom.

Caring for forcing hyacinth

Hyacinths, which are often sold in small pots, delight us in winter and early spring. They bloom quickly, filling the room with a fabulous aroma. Unfortunately, the life of such a hyacinth is short-lived and full of hardships. He suffers from lack of nutrition and thirst, and there is not enough space in the pot for a normal amount of soil. When watering, it is difficult not to soak the bulb, so the substrate in the pot has to be moistened through a tray or carefully watered into the very edges and corners of the pot. In a warm room, hyacinth falls on its side and breaks easily. This happens because its elongated peduncle with a heavy ear leans towards the light (window), and it is impossible to strengthen the support in a tiny pot.

Various techniques help to keep the peduncle in an upright position. From time to time you have to turn the pot, move it overnight to a cooler place, or strengthen it with improvised means. The peduncle of hyacinth turns out to be more even, the pot with which is placed in a bright and cool place (on a glazed, insulated loggia, veranda, winter garden, etc.). In addition, winter forcing depletes the bulb.

I buy flowering hyacinth in a pot not only as a temporary decoration. I am using this opportunity to expand my collection of hyacinths. If the newly purchased hyacinth is very cramped, it is supported by only roots, and there is little left of the substrate, you have to immediately transfer it to a new flower pot. Before this, I thoroughly moisten the contents of the previous forcing pot and carefully transfer the onion with roots into a larger container. The main thing is not to deepen the neck of the bulb. The bulb does not have to be completely covered with soil. You can add additional soil to it later, after flowering. A flowering plant transplanted into a larger pot is easier to care for. It looks much more interesting, and it can be grown in such a pot after the hyacinth has faded and the peduncle has been cut off.

What to do with faded hyacinth?

Scenario one. Many people throw away faded hyacinths. Sometimes an empty pot is left, as it can be used when growing seedlings or for cacti.

Scenario two. Some manuals on floriculture (including articles in newspapers and magazines) recommend executing faded hyacinth: the plant is first systematically dried, the bulb is removed from the ground and disinfected, and then sent for storage until autumn planting on the site. It is believed that a bulb that has passed such a test will bloom within a year. I have tried many times to preserve the hyacinth bulb this way. First of all, it is quite troublesome. And most importantly, my bulbs never even survived until the end of summer. They shriveled so much that it was impossible to even dream of any further flowering. By the time of autumn planting, nothing remained of the dried bulb except a lump of rustling scales. There was nothing to plant in the ground.

Scenario three. This option gives 100% results. Moreover, it is very simple. I start by cutting off the faded flower stem. After this, I transfer from the previous small pot to a larger flower pot. Of course, only if you did not transplant the hyacinth into a new flower pot immediately after purchase. Be sure to put a layer of drainage on the bottom (preferably made of expanded clay). I add pre-prepared garden soil mixed with peat and sand. You can take a purchased soil mixture for flowers. It is important that it is not solid peat or an overly nutritious soil mixture such as “Living Earth”. It is imperative to add at least sand to the contents of the packages. I cover the bulb with earth right up to the neck. It shouldn't be any deeper!

After transshipment, I place the pot with hyacinth in a bright, cool place on an insulated glass loggia. You can put it on the windowsill. Hyacinth quickly begins to grow excellent green leaves.

I take care of it like a houseplant during its growth period: I water the soil in the pot moderately, trying not to soak the bulb itself, and feed it with complex fertilizers. The soil should not be over-moistened when watering. Hyacinth will naturally develop in a pot (on a loggia or windowsill) just like its relatives in open ground. The only difference is in the time and place of growth. As soon as the opportunity arises, the hyacinth should be moved to the flower garden. There I carefully transfer the clod of earth with roots from the pot into the hole and level the ground. I don’t bury the bulb, because... the neck should remain at soil level at all times. I usually transship in (depending on the weather).

Hyacinths that were purchased in pots and grown in the house before being planted in the ground have time and the opportunity to accumulate nutrients to grow a full-fledged bulb. They are ready to bloom next year.

You can read about how to care for these hyacinths (formerly forced) in open ground in the articles and.

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You can grow lushly blooming hyacinths not only in the garden, but also in a city apartment. Despite their grace and beauty, these flowers are absolutely unpretentious. Even an inexperienced gardener can grow hyacinths at home if he follows simple rules and recommendations for growing these flowers. When the plants have finished blooming, they can be transplanted into the garden to again admire the colorful blooms next year. The optimal way to propagate hyacinths is by dividing the bulbs.

1. 1. A drainage layer of expanded clay is laid at the bottom of the flowerpot.
2. 2. A thick layer of soil is poured on top.
3. 3. A thin layer of fine sand is laid on top of the soil.
4. 4. The bulbs are laid out on the sand, the distance between them should be at least 3 cm.
5. 5. They are lightly pressed into the ground, and then sprinkled with earth on top.
6. 6. Planted bulbs are watered abundantly.

When planting hyacinths in pots, keep in mind that the tops must peek out from under the soil. Do not bury the bulbs completely in the ground.

After planting, the tubers begin a dormant period. The pots should be kept in a dark and cool room, the air temperature in which should be maintained at +5+10 degrees. As a rule, the rest period lasts about 2 months. All this time, the plants need to be watered, preventing the soil from drying out. It is extremely important to provide the plants with this “artificial winter”, otherwise in the future they will bloom poorly.

After 2 months, the pots are transferred to a warm and bright room, the air temperature in which should be about +15 degrees. This period lasts until the hyacinth begins to bloom. Once this happens, the containers are transferred to the desired room.

An important condition for lush and long-lasting flowering of hyacinths is that the air temperature in the room should not be higher than +20 degrees.

Home care

In order for indoor hyacinth to actually bloom and not just produce leaves, it must be carefully cared for throughout the growing season.

Watering

The basis of caring for home hyacinths is proper watering. A flower needs a sufficient amount of moisture to form buds and bloom lushly.

It is necessary to water hyacinth both during the growth period and during wintering, but this should be done in different ways:

• In winter, only slightly moisten the soil in the flowerpot.
• During the growth period, the flower needs more moisture.

Under no circumstances should the lump of earth in the pot be allowed to dry out.

Water for irrigation is used only after settling for at least 24 hours. It should be at room temperature or slightly warm. You cannot water hyacinths with tap water, as it is too hard.

When watering, you need to make sure that water does not get on the leaves and buds. It is recommended to pour water directly into the tray or carefully pour it along the edge of the flowerpot.

Lighting requirements

Hyacinths love light very much, so when planting in winter or on a cloudy day, they need to be illuminated with lamps. Due to lack of sun, the flower may even die.

Before we begin to analyze the basic rules for watering hyacinth, I would like to tell a beautiful and at the same time sad legend about its appearance. Translated from ancient Greek, hyacinth means “flower of rains,” since the beginning of its flowering coincides with the first spring rains. Hyacinth is also called the “flower of sadness”, associating this with the mythical story that happened to the sun god Apollo and his friend Hyacinth. This story is the most common among flower lovers.

Hyacinth - “flower of rain”

Hyacinth and Apollo often organized sporting competitions. One day, during another competition, Apollo metal a heavy disk and hit Hyacinth. Drops of the young man’s blood spilled onto the grass, and after some time, lilac-red flowers grew in this place, unlike previously known plants. This flower was usually called hyacinth in honor of the young man who, with his blood, gave birth to a new variegated plant.

In nature, hyacinth lives in Turkey, Greece and the Balkans. For a long time it was cultivated in gardens only in Eastern countries, where it was no less popular than decorative tulips. From the Ottoman Empire, hyacinth came to Austria, and later to Holland, from where it spread throughout Europe. By the way, this flower came to Holland as a result of the wreck of a ship, on board of which there were boxes with hyacinth bulbs. They were thrown ashore and after a while they bloomed, becoming a real find for Europeans. Interest in the flower did not fade; hundreds of varieties were created, among which the terry hyacinth stands out.

Hyacinth is a flower that loves moist soil. It is by maintaining a constantly loose substrate that you will be able to achieve longer flowering. At the same time, the flower absolutely does not tolerate stagnation of water. To prevent this from happening, we recommend that before planting the plant, place a drainage layer in the form of expanded clay on the bottom of the pot or replace it with sphagnum moss, which absorbs moisture, releases it to the root system of the plant in the required quantity and has disinfecting properties. No drainage material? Buy pots with drainage holes or make your own using a hot awl.

Watering Hyacinth

If you neglect this rule, then if the plant is watered abundantly, the excess moisture will have nowhere to go, the flower will begin to rot and may die. When watering, water entering the bulbs, buds and leaf axils is also detrimental to the plant. That is why it is not recommended to use watering cans with a wide spout. To moisturize hyacinths, it is better to use the immersion method or pour water into a tray, remembering to drain off excess moisture. Like any other plants, water this flower with soft, settled water at room temperature.

When growing hyacinth in the garden, monitor the soil moisture during the dry season. To saturate the root system with moisture as much as possible, the soil should get wet 15–25 cm deep. Since the flowering period of hyacinth begins in the spring, the soil is quite moist after the snow melts and cold weather, so there is no need to water the plant during this period. With the start date of watering, be guided by the weather, temperature and soil moisture.

After the end of the flowering period, inexperienced gardeners throw away the hyacinth, believing that it will not bloom again. This is not entirely true. If you leave the hyacinth bulb for a period of rest and then germinate, the plant will delight you with its flowering again. When your flower stops blooming, cut off the flower stalks and gradually reduce watering, wait until the leaves dry, and then cut them off. Now we send the onion to dry, or, more correctly, let it rest. We use a cardboard box or a wooden box as a storage container; polyethylene is not suitable. We send the container to a dark, well-ventilated place with a temperature of 18–22 ° C.

Hyacantha transplant

In addition to the first germination option, we recommend an option with a transparent container and water, where absolutely no soil is used. After drying the onion, place it on the vessel so that it lightly touches the water. For example, you can make a funnel from the neck of a plastic bottle, put it on a container of water and place an onion on top. This container must be placed in a dark, cool place. There is no need to water the plant; add water to the vessel every two weeks or as the liquid evaporates. With this option of germination and moistening, the hyacinth will grow a lot of roots, and after moving it to a warm place it will bloom again. Good luck growing this beautiful plant!

Do you think hyacinth is a flower? No, this is the name of a young man, the beloved friend of the Greek god Apollo. The young men often amused themselves by throwing the disc one at a time. But the jealousy of the god of the Western winds led to disaster. And so Hyacinth bleeds in the arms of his friend, the god Apollo. Apollo could not help him in any way, only in memory of his friend he created a unique flower and named it Hyacinth.

It turns out that thanks to whom many women receive a deliciously smelling gift on March 8th. Moreover, there is such a variety of colors: white, pale yellow, pink (any tone), lilac, blue, indigo, red, violet.

Growing hyacinths at home

Looking at the hyacinth, everyone will think: “I want it!” Want! Want!". If you want it, everything will happen, but you have to try. “Hyacinth” is a Greek word that translates to “flower of the rains,” perhaps because the grower has to put a lot of sweat into growing it. This, of course, is a joke, but you need to not only know the peculiarities of cultivation, but also methodically adhere to them.

Let us first note that additional lighting and supports for flower stalks may be necessary (the inflorescences are too heavy). Our task is to get as close as possible to the conditions of the natural environment - South Asia and the Mediterranean.

Choosing a location, suitable temperature and light

This is a complex matter, as all the following factors must be taken into account:

• daylight hours are required for approximately 15 hours (windows to the south or southeast are suitable, others require additional lighting - extending daylight hours);
• the flower loves light, but not heat - a comfortable temperature is a little more than 20˚C - so in the summer you will have to remove the flowerpot from direct sun or shade it;
• does not tolerate drafts or sudden changes in temperature;
• loves walks on the terrace or balcony at the right temperature;
• in winter, proximity to heating devices is unacceptable.

Creating the necessary air and soil humidity

Everything is simple here - you must not allow the soil to dry out, on the one hand, or the bulbs and leaves to rot, on the other. Water regularly, along the walls of the pot, not reaching the bulbs. Drain excess water from the pan. Hyacinth does not need spraying, and during flowering this procedure is prohibited.

Soil selection, fertilizer

The choice of soil mixture is important; neutral soil is suitable for hyacinth; it is ideal to use leaf and turf soil, peat, humus and sand in equal proportions. No fresh organics. Pre-heat the earth for 1.5 hours in the oven for disinfection. For lush flowering, the plant will need strength, which means fertilizing is required (with conventional complex fertilizers for flowering plants). The first time at the beginning of the growing season, then during the budding period, maybe a little in the final phase of flowering.

How to choose planting material

The key to beautiful flowering is a high-quality bulb. Bulbs should be selected in flower shops according to the following parameters:

• the diameter of the bulb is at least five centimeters;
• no damage or rottenness;
• the bulb is dense, not dry;
• The best time to buy bulbs is August.

If you purchase, the stem and peduncle should be erect.

Forcing hyacinth How to adjust the beginning of flowering to a certain date?

It can be calculated very roughly as follows: from planting to flowering it takes about 2.5 months, the plant itself blooms for 10-18 days (depending on the variety), so it’s easy to calculate. We want to start in mid-October for the New Year, for Valentine's Day - the end of November, for March 8 - the 20th of December. Before buying bulbs, carefully read the growing conditions - the most important thing is that the three phases of forcing require different temperatures (which means different places).

First stage– we plant the bulb in a pot and imitate winter. For 1.5 -2 months we keep the pot at a temperature of up to 8˚C and in complete darkness. This could be the cellar, or, failing that, the lower section of the refrigerator (cover the pot with a bag). We move on to the next stage when the emerging sprout reaches 5 cm. We keep the substrate in the flowerpot constantly moist; drying out is unacceptable.

Second phase– temperature increase by 5 -7 ˚С (spring is coming), the room is still darkened. Gradually you can move closer to the window, adding light. We are waiting for the buds to appear.

Third stage– flowering takes place in good light and a temperature of about 20 ˚С. The golden rule is no sudden changes in heat or heat, otherwise you won’t see flowers.

Planting hyacinth at home

Fill the pot with nutritious soil to two-thirds of its height. No need to compact.

Plant the bulbs at half height so that the tops are on the surface. This way the hyacinth will not get putrefactive diseases and will develop well.

After carefully watering without touching, place the pot in a cool, dark place. When the leaves are 7-8 cm in height, the pot should be placed on a sunny windowsill.

If you have imagined the whole process and found places with a suitable temperature, go ahead and plant the bulbs. This is a simple matter.

• You can choose individual flowerpots 5 cm wider than the bulb, or you can place hyacinths in a container several at a time (at a distance of 2-3 cm) - this way the flowers look more impressive.
• Be sure to place drainage at the bottom of the container, then soil, do not fill it to the top so that the planted bulb peeks 2 cm out of the soil.
• We plant the bulbs (not close to the edge of the container), compact the soil and water generously.
• A layer of sand (up to 1 cm) can be poured on top to prevent the bulbs from rotting. We cover everything with a dark film (ventilation holes are required) and in the “winter”, for the first phase.

Hyacinth at home after flowering

The eastern name for hyacinth is “Guria Curls.” Now they have blossomed, delighting us with their curls and wonderful aroma, now it’s time to rest.

What to do with home hyacinth after flowering:

• The flower has faded - cut off the peduncle. During the dormant period, we adhere to moderate watering, giving the plant the opportunity to form “babies” and gain strength for the main bulb.
• We feed the plant with complex fertilizer.
• Only after the leaves have completely dried should you dig up the bulb.
• Inspect carefully, air dry, remove the dry husks, let the too small “babies” remain with the “mother”, and the larger ones can be separated.
• All of them must be thoroughly dried - for the first week even at 30˚C, then another 2 weeks - 25˚C, and until planting - at a temperature of 17˚C and high humidity (so that the bulb does not dry out). This is a very important stage, because right now the future inflorescence and small children are being formed (therefore, the next time you plant, you need to be careful not to damage them).

In the fall, hyacinth bulbs need to be planted in the ground in a flowerbed so that they can recover after flowering at home. Plant them deeper (15-20 cm) so that they do not freeze, and cover with a 10 cm layer of mulch. Remove the cover in spring. The plants may not bloom in the spring, but they will be perfectly prepared for the next forcing in the new season. In the fall, the bulbs can be dug up, dried and stored in a cool place until planted in a pot. The bulbs can form babies; it is better to carefully separate them and leave them in the flowerbed; they will grow for 4-5 years until they reach the size of adult bulbs. Only then can they be used for forcing at home.

How to propagate hyacinths at home

• A faded plant is not suitable for re-forcing the house - it must be planted in open ground (in the fall, even in a flowerbed at the entrance) so that it gains strength.
• If you plan to grow it again at home in a year, then the hyacinth should not bloom in the ground this year (you will have to cut off the peduncle).
• A small baby can be grown to normal size in 3-4 years so that it is suitable for forcing at home.
• Over these years, the “cubs” will go through periods of growing season without flowering, gradually gaining power.

This is where a sensible idea arises: to obtain it, buy ready-made planting material, and let it be grown in nurseries.

Diseases and pests

The flower is occasionally affected by yellow bacterial rot, which, alas, nothing can be done about. The plant and soil will have to be thrown away, and if the pot is planned to be used further, it must be disinfected.
Pests can be:

• spider mite;
• nematodes;

Insecticides are used to combat them, although this cannot be done during the flowering period.
Possible problems when caring for hyacinth at home:

• yellow leaves - a draft and watering into the outlet are to blame;
• leaves wither - lack of lighting;
• buds falling off - water gets on the buds, a sharp change in temperature;
• cessation of flowering - the flower is hot;
• rotting - chronic waterlogging.

Conclusion: you can grow hyacinth with patience and care. Grow wisely and enjoy luxurious blooms!

Description of hyacinth

Hyacinths photo when to plant at home Hyacinthus orientalis ‘Delft Blue’ photo

Hyacinth is now classified as a member of the Asparagus family, although previously it was classified as a separate Hyacinth family or included in the Liliaceae. This bulbous perennial is considered to be a native of Asia Minor, but Dutch breeders worked so hard to develop new varieties, spread the flower and bulbs that it can be considered a truly modern “Dutch”.

Hyacinth is a plant up to 30 cm high; a stem and oblong leaves grow from a dense bulb. Hyacinth flowers - small bells with curled leaves - are collected in a dense inflorescence-cone (reminiscent of an ear). The flowers are simple and double in appearance.

At the end of flowering, both the peduncle and the leaves dry out, you need to look for small baby bulbs in the corners of the leaves (they can be further used for propagation), and the main bulb develops on the stem inside the mother bulb.
It has proven itself well at home, also in open ground (where it is one of the first to emerge from the ground in the spring). This is not unfounded, this is evidenced by more than four hundred years of experience in breeding hyacinths. During this time, about 30 species were classified as this species, including half a thousand different varieties of plants.

However, today there are three types of hyacinths:

• eastern (Hyacinthus orientalis);
• Litvinova (Hyacinthus litwinowii);
• Transcaspian (Hyacinthus transcaspicus).

It is on their basis that all the variety of shapes and colors of these plants is created.

Types and varieties of hyacinth with photos and descriptions

Eastern hyacinth Hyacinthus orientalis- the same great-grandfather of most of today's varieties. Flowers with a delicate aroma are loosely placed on a thin peduncle. Can be any shade of white, yellow, pink or blue. It can be found in the wild in Lebanon, Turkey or Syria.

Hyacinth Litvinov Hyacinthus litwinowii– has bluish leaves and light blue flowers with protruding stamens. Natural range: Iran, Turkmenistan.

Transcaspian hyacinth Hyacinthus transcaspicus– a low-growing flower (up to 20 cm), has up to two stems, the leaves are equally thick along the entire length. There are no more than a dozen flowers in a loose inflorescence. Natural place – mountains of Turkmenistan.
Another classification of hyacinths is their division by color:

• - Arentine Arendsen (white or cream flowers), double Snow Crystal and Madame Sophie;

• - Yellow Hammer (deep yellow), Oranje Boven (pale yellow), City of Haarlem (salmon);

• pink - Anna Marie (light pink), Gertruda (deep pink), Moreno (pink with a dark crimson stripe);
• red - La Victoire, Tubergen’s Scarlet, Hollyhock (terry);

• lilac – Bismarck (pale), Blue Magic (red-violet), Indigo King (dark purple);
• blue - Queen of the Blues (pale blue), Perle Brillante (fawn blue), Marie (rich blue).

Hyacinth is a plant from Asia Minor. Non-local development conditions are familiar to the flower, but how to care for hyacinth in our environment? How often to water hyacinth, is it necessary to fertilize? You will find answers to these questions by reading today's article.

The areas where hyacinth is distributed are Asia Minor, some regions of Syria and Türkiye. It may seem that the hyacinth, with its delicate inflorescence and leaves, prefers abundant watering. Is it so? The plant that our flower growers loved so much was called Oriental Hyacinth. The species is adapted to home keeping and can calmly accept the care that gardeners are accustomed to.

How to care for hyacinth at home:

• The air temperature after planting is 15° C. The optimal temperature for flowering is 20° C.
• Place in a well-lit place.
• In winter, place it away from heating appliances.
• Do not place in a draft, on the floor, or in stuffy rooms.
• Additional lighting in the evenings during the forcing period.
• Feed with mineral fertilizers.

How often to water hyacinth:

• Water, avoiding complete drying of the soil.
• Use water at room temperature.
• Do not direct the stream of water at leaves or inflorescences.
• Pour water into the edge of the pot.

Hyacinth is watered frequently. The soil mixture in the pot should be kept moist at all times.. Short periods of drying out of the soil are allowed, but a dry earthen ball should cause alarm, since the bulb will give a signal to shed its inflorescences due to lack of moisture. During the period of active development and forcing of the hyacinth peduncle, the watered plant is not exposed to drafts. Thanks to the balanced amount of lighting and frequency of watering, moisture is evenly distributed in the soil mixture, reaches its goal, saturating the plants and evaporates safely.

How to water hyacinth in autumn and winter?

Caring for hyacinth during the dormant period differs from spring and summer procedures. Instead of the standard room temperature, the air temperature is reduced, and lighting in the required volumes for forcing is stopped. There is no need to water the hyacinth bulb in the soil in the pot.

How to water hyacinth during forcing?

When forcing hyacinth, a special watering technique is used - immersing the bulb in water. In order to fully saturate the planting material with moisture, the hyacinth bulb must be placed in filtered or settled water. A little trick : The onion should touch the bottom, but not float in the container, so use a small glass and pour in enough water to just cover the top.

Contrary to popular belief, the sun's rays should not fall on the bulb during the awakening period, so the container with the bulb in water is wrapped in dark paper or placed under an opaque cover or cap. Change the water to fresh water in a timely manner and do not forget to top up the moisture absorbed by the onion. The forcing ends after the roots appear. Now you can plant the sprouted hyacinth bulb in the substrate and in the pot. Hyacinth sprouted in water is no different in care from hyacinth in soil.

↓ Write in the comments how often do you water hyacinth? What germination methods do you use? What new did you learn from our article? What would you add to the information provided?

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READ ALSO:

Planting hyacinths in open ground in spring

Caring for hyacinth at home after flowering

How to store hyacinth at home after flowering?

How to replant hyacinth after purchasing it in a pot?

How to water hyacinth in a pot at home?

Video: What to do with hyacinth after flowering?

In the winter months, forcing hyacinths - small bulbs with leaves and an inflorescence - go on sale. Faded hyacinths should not be thrown away. They are easy to save and then plant on the site. Next year these hyacinths will bloom.

Caring for forcing hyacinth

Hyacinths, which are often sold in small pots, delight us in winter and early spring. They bloom quickly, filling the room with a fabulous aroma. Unfortunately, the life of such a hyacinth is short-lived and full of hardships. He suffers from lack of nutrition and thirst, and there is not enough space in the pot for a normal amount of soil. When watering, it is difficult not to soak the bulb, so the substrate in the pot has to be moistened through a tray or carefully watered into the very edges and corners of the pot. In a warm room, hyacinth falls on its side and breaks easily. This happens because its elongated peduncle with a heavy ear leans towards the light (window), and it is impossible to strengthen the support in a tiny pot.

Various techniques help to keep the peduncle in an upright position. From time to time you have to turn the pot, move it overnight to a cooler place, or strengthen it with improvised means. The peduncle of hyacinth turns out to be more even, the pot with which is placed in a bright and cool place (on a glazed, insulated loggia, veranda, winter garden, etc.). In addition, winter forcing depletes the bulb.

I buy flowering hyacinth in a pot not only as a temporary decoration. I am using this opportunity to expand my collection of hyacinths. If the newly purchased hyacinth is very cramped, it is supported by only roots, and there is little left of the substrate, you have to immediately transfer it to a new flower pot. Before this, I thoroughly moisten the contents of the previous forcing pot and carefully transfer the onion with roots into a larger container. The main thing is not to deepen the neck of the bulb. The bulb does not have to be completely covered with soil. You can add additional soil to it later, after flowering. A flowering plant transplanted into a larger pot is easier to care for. It looks much more interesting, and it can be grown in such a pot after the hyacinth has faded and the peduncle has been cut off.

What to do with faded hyacinth?

Scenario one. Many people throw away faded hyacinths. Sometimes an empty pot is left, as it can be used when growing seedlings or for cacti.

Scenario two. Some manuals on floriculture (including articles in newspapers and magazines) recommend executing faded hyacinth: the plant is first systematically dried, the bulb is removed from the ground and disinfected, and then sent for storage until autumn planting on the site. It is believed that a bulb that has passed such a test will bloom within a year. I have tried many times to preserve the hyacinth bulb this way. First of all, it is quite troublesome. And most importantly, my bulbs never even survived until the end of summer. They shriveled so much that it was impossible to even dream of any further flowering. By the time of autumn planting, nothing remained of the dried bulb except a lump of rustling scales. There was nothing to plant in the ground.

Scenario three. This option gives 100% results. Moreover, it is very simple. I start by cutting off the faded flower stem. After this, I transfer from the previous small pot to a larger flower pot. Of course, only if you did not transplant the hyacinth into a new flower pot immediately after purchase. Be sure to put a layer of drainage on the bottom (preferably made of expanded clay). I add pre-prepared garden soil mixed with peat and sand. You can take a purchased soil mixture for flowers. It is important that it is not solid peat or an overly nutritious soil mixture such as “Living Earth”. It is imperative to add at least sand to the contents of the packages. I cover the bulb with earth right up to the neck. It shouldn't be any deeper!

After transshipment, I place the pot with hyacinth in a bright, cool place on an insulated glass loggia. You can put it on the windowsill. Hyacinth quickly begins to grow excellent green leaves.

I take care of it like a houseplant during its growth period: I water the soil in the pot moderately, trying not to soak the bulb itself, and feed it with complex fertilizers. The soil should not be over-moistened when watering. Hyacinth will naturally develop in a pot (on a loggia or windowsill) just like its relatives in open ground. The only difference is in the time and place of growth. As soon as the opportunity arises, the hyacinth should be moved to the flower garden. There I carefully transfer the clod of earth with roots from the pot into the hole and level the ground. I don’t bury the bulb, because... the neck should remain at soil level at all times. I usually transship in (depending on the weather).

Hyacinths that were purchased in pots and grown in the house before being planted in the ground have time and the opportunity to accumulate nutrients to grow a full-fledged bulb. They are ready to bloom next year.

You can read about how to care for these hyacinths (formerly forced) in open ground in the articles and.

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Hyacinth is a flower whose name is translated from Latin as flower of rain. It has this name due to its love for excessive moisture; there is also an assumption that it is so called because of the time of flowering of this plant in nature, namely in the spring during the rainy season.

Hyacinth is native to Southeast Asia. In most cases, this bulbous flower is grown in gardens, but it can also be done at home, but caring for the plant in this case is slightly different.

This unusually beautiful plant attracts attention thanks to its colorful and bright flowers, similar to small bells, which are located on a fleshy peduncle in the form of a racemose inflorescence. Flowers can be either simple or double in yellow, pink, blue, purple, indigo or white.

Bright green, smooth and fleshy leaves, in an amount of 5 to 8 pieces, form a rosette sprouting from the bulb, from which a peduncle emerges. The flower reaches a height of 30 cm. The flowering of Hyacinth is accompanied by a subtle pleasant aroma.

There are many types of Hyacinth, including: Ostara, Amethyst, Rosalia, Sunflower, La Victoire, Litvinova, Transcayspian, Arentina Arendsen.

But the most popular and widespread in home growing is

Forcing at home

Caring for Hyacinth is not difficult, but you need to follow some rules. The first rule is choosing a bulb, from which the flower will be grown. The size of the bulb in diameter must be at least 5 cm, it must be dense, not affected by rot, diseases and insects. The second rule is to create the necessary atmosphere for successful flower cultivation.

Choosing a pot and soil for planting bulbs

The vessel for diluting Hyacinth should be medium in size and have drainage holes at the bottom. From 1 to 3 bulbs sit in one container. They should not come into contact with each other or with the walls of the pot.

A layer of drainage must be laid out at the bottom of the pot; for this, you can use a layer of sand about 2 cm.

The bulb is not completely placed in the soil; its upper part should not be covered. The substrate used is one that has a neutral acidity level, since high acidity is not suitable for the flower. To avoid rotting of the bulb, the surface of the soil is also covered with sand.

After planting the bulbs, they need to create a dormant period of about two months. The flowerpot is placed in a dark, cool place, perhaps even in the refrigerator, the temperature should be +5-7 degrees. The soil needs to be watered occasionally to maintain constant moisture. During this time, the bulbs take root well and will produce flower stalks in the future. After the bulbs produce a pair of leaves, the flower is transferred to a bright place with a temperature no higher than +15 degrees.

And only when inflorescences form, the flowerpot is placed in a permanent place, where the plant is fully cared for.

Care during flowering

The flowering period of Hyacinth lasts on average about two weeks; during this period care is required, thanks to which the flowering will be lush and longer.

Lighting

Hyacinth loves light very much, he needs it at least 15 hours a day. If you place it in a place where there is not enough light, you need to additionally use artificial lighting sources. On hot summer days, the plant needs to be shaded to avoid direct sunlight.

Temperature

The best temperature for growing Hyacinth is +20-22 degrees. It is not recommended to keep the flower close to heating devices. You should also avoid drafts, as they can lead to the death of the flower.

Watering and spraying

The soil in the pot should always be slightly moist, this is especially important during flowering, active growth and wintering. You should also avoid stagnation of water, which can lead to rotting of the bulb and the development of fungal diseases. To do this, water is poured from the pan immediately after watering. Another important point is the method of watering itself: To ensure that water does not fall on the bulb, in the axils of the leaves and buds, the water must be poured near the edge of the pot.

The water should be soft at room temperature; it is good to use rain or melt water, preheating it.

Top dressing

The plant needs frequent feeding, about twice a month. To do this, use any universal fertilizer for indoor bulbous plants. Before feeding, you need to water the flower.

Care after flowering

Hyacinth, like all other flowering plants, fades over time. But in this case, its vital activity does not stop, but the care of the flower simply changes.

• First the peduncle is cut off, the leaves remain, and caring for the flower continues until they die completely. After this, it is necessary to dry the bulbs and place the plant for a period of rest. To do this, the flower is removed from the pot, the roots are cleared of the soil, and the top of the plant is cut off at a distance of about one centimeter from the bulb.
• The bulb is sprayed with a disinfectant solution, for example Fundazol, to avoid infection and remove the top unnecessary peel. Then the bulb is dried, at which time it must be turned periodically to dry completely.
• When the bulb is completely dry, you need to wrap it in paper or sawdust and place it in a dark, dry place for 2-3 months, after which it can be planted again.

Video about caring for Hyacinth after flowering

Very often, flower growers adjust the flowering of Hyacinth to a certain time of the year, for example, to get an inflorescence on March 8, this must be done in October. For this purpose, a manipulation such as forcing - in this case, the bulbs are specially brought out of dormancy.

In this case, the planted bulbs are covered with a bag in which a hole is made so that the plant can breathe. Then the flower is grown, as with ordinary planting of bulbs.

Video about forcing Hyacinth by March 8

Reproduction methods

There are several ways to propagate Hyacinth. Among them: propagation by children, propagation by seeds, cutting the bottom and notching the bottom. At home, the first method is most often used, since the others are very time-consuming and complex; they are used by breeders and professionals.

On average, a bulb can produce 2-4 babies per year. They must be carefully separated from the mother bulb and planted in a separate container. If the baby is difficult to separate, then after a period of dormancy, the mother bulb is planted along with it and separated only after the next flowering of Hyacinth.

With this method of propagation, the plant blooms in 2-3 years.

Trimming

Pruning the peduncle is necessary after flowering has completed, because if fruits form after the flowers, this will drain all the strength from the flower. Also When the leaves dry, they are also cut off.

Diseases and pests

Most often, Hyacinth is resistant to various types of threats when grown at home, because when transplanting the bulbs are treated with disinfectants. But sometimes hyacinth is threatened by the following diseases and pests:

• Bacterial rot. There are many causes of infection with this disease and various symptoms of its manifestation, for example, the appearance of black spots on the leaves, rotting of the bulb, drying out of the roots, etc. The disease can be dealt with only in industrial production, but at home this leads to the death of the flower. In this case, it is necessary to get rid of the plant and soil, and disinfect the pot.
• Insects. For example: aphids, mites and others. You can get rid of them by spraying the flower with chemicals, but only before the flowering period.
• Physiological disorders. These are deformations of the peduncle, for example, curvature or incorrect flowering, which appear in case of non-compliance with the “forcing” regime, or rather the cooling period.

The bulb is affected by rot

Peduncle deformation

Conclusion

Thus, p The problem of growing Hyacinth at home is not great, if you follow all the rules for caring for this flower, and also provide appropriate care for it during the dormant period. In this case, Hyacinth will delight with its beautiful and fragrant blooms.