DIY cyclone (dust collector) in the workshop. Homemade cyclone for the workshop Cyclone attachment for a vacuum cleaner

During various construction and renovation work on premises, there is often a need to remove construction waste. It is not recommended to use a regular vacuum cleaner for this purpose, since there is a high probability of failure of the filter, or even the entire vacuum cleaner. For this purpose, a construction vacuum cleaner is used, which is designed specifically for such work.

Let's look at what a construction (industrial) vacuum cleaner is and its main differences from a household one.

The power of a construction vacuum cleaner is several times greater than that of a household vacuum cleaner and can reach 4 kW. Thanks to this, you can easily remove construction debris, both small and large. With its help, you can easily remove cement dust, fragments of plaster, various fragments and sand, etc. The body of an industrial vacuum cleaner is mainly made of metal.

The vacuum cleaner has a reinforced filtration system. The motor of such a vacuum cleaner can work for a long time and withstand heavy loads, thanks to special system cooling. The dust collector capacity of a construction vacuum cleaner is much larger than a conventional vacuum cleaner. All construction vacuum cleaners have an outlet for connecting power tools.

Such a vacuum cleaner costs more than a regular one, so many craftsmen try to make a construction vacuum cleaner with their own hands by remaking a household vacuum cleaner, and often encounter certain difficulties.

This article contains the most successful technical solutions How to convert a household vacuum cleaner into a construction vacuum cleaner. If you have a medium-power vacuum cleaner at home, then if you wish, you can turn it into a construction vacuum cleaner. Or you can buy an inexpensive vacuum cleaner and, by improving it, turn it into an industrial one. To do this, you don’t have to remake the vacuum cleaner itself, you just need to make external filter DIY cyclone. Next, we will consider two main options for manufacturing such a filter with and without a cone.

A description of homemade cyclone filters is given in this article mainly to introduce you to the general idea and operating principle of such devices. This means that, having familiarized yourself with the design, you are not obliged to repeat it completely, but can make various changes to it, or using the basic idea, make a cyclone filter of a completely new design.

Operating principle of the cyclone filter

The operating principle of this filter is based on the passage of contaminated air through external device, in which large particles settle in its body, then the air is cleaned of fine dust, passing through the oil filter, and enters the turbine of the vacuum cleaner. Thus, the vacuum cleaner itself receives air that has already been purified from dust and debris.

Cyclone filter option 1 (without cone)

To make a cyclone filter with your own hands, you will need the following parts and materials:

• Oil filter. It filters fine dust.
• Bucket with a tight-fitting lid 20 l.
• Polypropylene elbows, intended for water supply systems, and having an angle of 90 and 45 degrees and a diameter of 40 mm - 1 piece.
• Plumbing pipe, plastic – 1 meter, diameter 40 mm.
• Piece corrugated pipe 2 meters long and 40 mm in diameter. You will need it to log into the device.

Manufacturing process

1. In the lid of the bucket, in the center, you need to cut a hole into which a 90-degree angle is inserted; a vacuum cleaner will be connected to it.

2. Seal the cracks with sealant.

3. Cut a hole in the side wall of the bucket and insert a 45 degree corner.

4. A piece of pipe is used to connect the corrugation to the elbow.
5. For more long service filter, you can pull a piece of nylon tights over it.

6. The filter outlet must be connected to the elbow in the bucket lid.

It may not be possible to fit the filter onto the outlet pipe. For this purpose, you need to come up with some kind of adapter. A piece of corrugation for a plumbing siphon or a rubber hose of a certain diameter may be suitable. It is advisable to coat all connections with sealant. An oil filter can be purchased at a store that sells auto parts.

It must be borne in mind that when closing the inlet, the bucket may crack. Therefore, it is necessary to strengthen the walls of the bucket in some way, or provide something like a valve. The main thing is not to rush in this matter, measure all the connections, and then everything will work out for you.

Only one of the options is described above. There are many similar designs. Instead of a bucket they use plastic barrels, there are designs where the role of a bucket is played by fan pipe. Many craftsmen make their own containers from tin or thin iron.

Some inventors design a cyclone filter using a cone. This design often uses a traffic cone.

Option 2 (using a traffic cone)

The following parts and materials will be required:

• Road cone (can be purchased at a car store).
• Two meter rods 8 mm.
• Washers, nuts and lock washers 8 mm.
• Corrugated tubes with a diameter of 32 mm and a length of about 2 meters - two pieces.

Manufacturing process

1. Cut off the stand at the very base of the cone. The cone is inserted into the bucket from above upside down. A tube is inserted inside the bucket. The space between the cone and the tube should be filled with construction foam.
2. Cut a square out of 20 mm thick plywood so that the base of the cone fits into it and still has some space left. 4 holes with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled in the corners of the square. A hole is cut in the center for the tube; a corrugated hose will be placed on it, connecting the device to the vacuum cleaner.
3. The lid for the bucket is cut out of multi-layer plywood and should fit tightly to the bucket. Glue a rubber gasket along its edges.
4. A hole is sawed in the lid with a diameter for the narrow end of the cone.
5. After the cone is inserted into the plywood cover, the joint is covered with foam. The cone should be placed upside down on the bucket, and is attached using four threaded rods, 50 cm long and 8 mm in diameter, they hold the plywood square with the cone screwed to it.
6. Not far from the base of the cone, in its wide part, a hole is drilled for a tube to connect to a corrugated hose. Various construction waste will be sucked through it.

Filter fine cleaning In this version, a cyclone is not used, so fine dust can enter the vacuum cleaner turbine. When constructing such devices, vacuum cleaners with a bag are mainly used. Therefore, fine dust, if it gets inside, settles in the bag.

Options for homemade construction vacuum cleaners with an additional cyclone filter allow craftsmen to test various options, without fear of ruining the vacuum cleaner itself, since most of the debris is retained by the filter.

When making a cyclone filter with your own hands, do not be afraid to experiment, and in the end you will definitely achieve the desired result.

Recently I became interested in working with wood and the issue of removing shavings and sawdust arose very urgently. So far, the issue of cleaning the workplace has been solved with a home vacuum cleaner, but it quickly becomes clogged and stops suction. You have to shake out the bag often. In search of a solution to the problem, I looked through many pages on the Internet and found something. As it turns out, it is possible to make fully functional dust collectors from scrap materials.

Mini vacuum cleaner made from a plastic bottle

Here is another idea for a mini vacuum cleaner based on the Venturi effect
This vacuum cleaner operates using forced air.

Venturi effect

The Venturi effect is a pressure drop when a liquid or gas flows through a constricted portion of a pipe. This effect is named after the Italian physicist Giovanni Venturi (1746–1822).

Rationale

The Venturi effect is a consequence of Bernoulli's law, which corresponds to the Bernoulli equation, which determines the relationship between speed v liquid, pressure p in it and height h, on which the liquid element in question is located, above the reference level:

where is the density of the liquid, and is the acceleration of gravity.

If the Bernoulli equation is written for two sections of the flow, then we will have:

For a horizontal flow, the average terms on the left and right sides of the equation are equal to each other, and therefore cancel, and the equality takes the form:

that is, with a steady horizontal flow of an ideal incompressible fluid in each of its sections, the sum of the piezometric and dynamic pressures will be constant. To fulfill this condition in those places of the flow where average speed fluid is higher (that is, in narrow sections), its dynamic head increases, and the hydrostatic head decreases (and therefore the pressure decreases).

• in hydraulic jet pumps, in particular in tankers for oil and chemical products;
• in burners that mix air and flammable gases in the grill, gas stove, Bunsen burner and airbrushes;
• in Venturi tubes - constricting elements of Venturi flow meters;
• in Venturi flow meters;
• in ejector-type water aspirators, which create small vacuums using kinetic energy tap water;
• sprayers (sprayers) for spraying paint, water or aromatizing the air.
• carburetors, where the Venturi effect is used to draw gasoline into the inlet air stream of an internal combustion engine;
• in automated swimming pool cleaners, which use water pressure to collect sediment and debris;
• in oxygen masks for oxygen therapy, etc.

Now let's look at the samples that can take their rightful place in the workshop.

Ideally, I would like to get something similar to a cyclone filter, but from scrap materials:

Homemade chip separator.

The principle is the same, but made much simpler:

But I liked this option the most, since it is a smaller analogue of an industrial cyclone:

ch1

Since I don’t have a traffic cone, I decided to settle on this design, assembled from plastic pipes for sewerage. An undoubted advantage is the availability and low cost of material for assembling the structure:

Homemade cyclone from plastic sewer pipes

In this case, the desired vortex will be created.
On next video shown similar design at work:

And finally, a slightly modified version:

Making a cyclone for a vacuum cleaner with your own hands will not be difficult if you have experience working with tools. The installation, called a cyclone, acts as an effective air purifier from small debris and dust. Many woodworking machines are equipped with nozzles for chip removal. Homemade cyclone connected to this pipe.

People who were on the territory industrial enterprises, paid attention to the conical structures with their apex facing downwards. These are industrial cyclones designed to clean polluted air. The problem of creating a cyclone filter with your own hands worries owners of home workshops.

The operation of a cyclone is as follows:

1. The contaminated air flow flows through a hose from the machine nozzle into a separate chamber;
2. Air enters the container through a side pipe installed at the top of the cyclone body;
3. At the top of the housing it is connected to a vertical air duct flexible hose, docked with a vacuum cleaner;
4. The vacuum cleaner provides traction to the air flow inside the device;
5. A vortex flow is created in the chamber, moving spirally along the walls of the chamber - from top to bottom;
6. Solid particles fall down into the chamber opening and then end up in the waste bin;
7. The purified air rushes upward, passing through the filter, and enters the vacuum cleaner hose;
8. At the end of the work, the accumulated debris (chips and dust) is removed from the storage tank.

Can be purchased ready product to clean the air from contaminants (sawdust, dust and debris), but the simplicity of the device attracts many minds to making a cyclone with their own hands. Variety of auxiliary materials, as well as availability universal tools allows you to create cyclones of various models.

A self-made filter does not take much time and saves cash. Let's present several options for making cyclone filters with your own hands.

Cyclone made of plastic buckets



As the body of the device, you can use 10 liter plastic buckets from under water-based paint. Prepare the following tools and materials.

Tools

• construction knife;
• marker or pencil;
• compass;
• jigsaw;
• screwdriver;
• hacksaw;
• awl;
• glue gun

Materials

• two plastic 10 liter buckets;
• PVC water pipe and angle ø 32 mm;
• automotive air filter;
• glue stick;
• construction plywood;
• roofing iron;
• self-tapping screws;
• vacuum cleaner hoses;
• wood glue;
• sealant.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling a cyclone

1. Remove the lids from the buckets. One of them is cut in half lengthwise.
2. The pipe section is enclosed in a box-shaped plywood structure.
3. Plywood boards are glued together with wood glue so that the pipe fits tightly inside the box.
4. The space between the pipe and the plywood is filled with sealant.
5. Make a template from cardboard or thick paper, which follows the bend of the side surface of the bucket in its upper part (70 - 100 mm from the lid of the container).
6. Having attached the template to the box, draw a bend line with a pencil or marker.
7. Using a jigsaw, cut the box along with the pipe, following the intended line.
8. The structure is leaned against the bucket.
9. From the inside of the container, use a pencil to mark the contours of the pipe opening. This is done in such a way that the pipe enters the hole at an angle downwards (20 - 300 from the horizontal)
10. An opening is cut out with a knife.
11. Holes are pierced with an awl along the perimeter of the leaning plywood from the inside of the container.
12. Using a screwdriver and self-tapping screws, attach the plywood frame of the pipe to the bucket through the holes.
13. After checking the reliability of the box, with outside glue gun seal the contact perimeter.
14. A circle is cut out of roofing iron with a diameter equal to the inner circumference of the bucket - at a height of 70 mm from the bottom. Marking is done with a compass.
15. The tin circle is cut in half from the center to the edge.
16. The outer edges of the cut are spread at an angle of 300.
17. The shaped insert is installed in the bucket by surprise.
18. A screw-shaped tin insert will promote the swirling of sawdust, shavings and dust, which will quickly be sent to the storage tank (1/2 of the second bucket).
19. The bottom of the top bucket is cut off.
20. The cyclone chamber is tightly inserted into the storage tank.
21. A hole ø 32 mm is cut in the lid of the top bucket. This can be done with an appropriate reamer or knife.
22. A pipe 300 mm long is lowered into the hole so that a pipe 70 mm high remains outside.
23. The joint is treated with a glue gun.
24. The side pipe is connected with a hose to the nozzle of a woodworking machine or waste collector.
25. The protruding pipe from the bucket lid is connected to the vacuum cleaner hose.
26. In order for completely purified air to enter the vacuum cleaner, a cylindrical air filter is placed on the lower end of the pipe.
27. A patch is cut out of tin along the outer diameter of the filter. The patch (plug) is cut out with three tongues.
28. Three strips of tin are attached to the tongues of the plug with screws or rivets, the upper ends of which are bent.
29. The bends are attached to the back surface of the bucket lid with screws.
30. The connection between the plug and the lower hole of the filter is sealed with a glue gun.

The cyclone filter is ready for use. As needed, the upper part of the cyclone is removed from the storage tank and its debris is emptied. The filter is periodically cleaned with a toothbrush, moving the bristles into the folds of the corrugation.

You don’t have to make a box-shaped frame for the side pipe, but cut and bend its outer edges. Then fasten the bent sides to the edges of the bucket hole with screws or rivets. But such a connection will be less reliable than the fastening described above.

Cyclone with figured insert

Take two plastic buckets - 5 and 10 liters. The cyclone is assembled as follows:

1. The top side of a 5 liter bucket is cut off with a knife.
2. The container is turned over and placed on a sheet of plywood. Draw a pencil around the bucket.
3. Using a compass, mark another circle, with a radius 30 mm larger.
4. Inside the ring, two holes are cut with a crown and the contour of the figured insert is applied.
5. The jigsaw blade is inserted one by one into these holes and a shaped insert and a fixing ring are cut out. The insert is an unfinished circle with an expanded base (100 mm).
6. The ring is applied to the back of the lid of a large bucket and outlined with a pencil.
7. The middle of the lid is cut out with a knife.
8. Use a drill to drill holes at the top of the small container.
9. The fixing ring is placed on the bucket. Using a screwdriver, screw the screws through the holes in the bucket into the ring.
10. A circle of lid from a 10 liter bucket is placed on the fixing belt with the side up.
11. The circle from the lid is secured with self-tapping screws to the fixing ring.
12. In the cyclone body, 2 holes ø 40 mm are made with a crown - on the side and on the top.
13. A square is cut out of plywood, in which an opening of the same diameter is made with a crown. The frame is placed on the cyclone body cover, aligning the holes. The frame is secured with self-tapping screws from inside the lid.
14. I install the shaped insert just below the fixing ring. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the outside of the container and go into the body of the insert.
15. Insert into frame PVC pipe, whose lower end does not reach the figured insert by 40 mm. At the top, the pipe should protrude 40 mm above the surface of the lid.
16. The side opening of the cyclone body is expanded in the shape of a horizontal drop.
17. A corner PVC pipe is glued into the opening with hot glue.
18. I put the chip ejector housing on a large bucket (storage) and snap the lid on.
19. A vacuum cleaner hose is inserted into the upper outlet. The side pipe is connected with a hose to the waste collection nozzle.
20. All joint seams are sealed with a glue gun or a syringe with sealant. The device is ready for use.

Many may have a question - what is it for? figured insert? The insert forms the correct direction of air flow inside the cyclone. At the same time, the horizontal platform repels the air pressure upward and allows sawdust and other debris to gradually settle in the storage tank.

Chip extraction from the sewer riser

To make a chip extractor from plastic sewer fittings, you will need the following tools and materials.

Tools

• angle machine;
• drill;
• glue gun;
• riveter;
• jigsaw;
• construction knife.

Materials

• PVC Sewer pipe ø 100 mm;
• PVC pipe ø 40 mm;
• hose;
• rivets;
• glue stick;
• fixing rings - clamps;
• two 2-liter bottles;
• 5 liter eggplant.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling a chip ejector

1. From sewer riser cut off the neck, leaving a piece 1 m long.
2. The plastic bottle is cut, leaving a part of the cylinder with a cone, neck and stopper.
3. Holes are drilled in both plugs. The plugs are glued together with a gun and tightened with a clamp.
4. The cut bottle is inserted into the lower hole of the riser. The connection is sealed with hot glue and tightened with a clamp.
5. A hole ø 40 mm is cut into the side of the PVC pipe. A pipe 70 mm long is inserted into it. The joints are sealed.
6. 3 circles ø 100 mm are cut out of tin using a jigsaw.
7. A hole ø 40 mm is cut in the center of each circle.
8. The resulting disks are cut in half.
9. The halves are sequentially connected to each other with rivets, resulting in a screw.
10. A PVC pipe ø 40 mm is threaded inside the spiral. The pipe is connected to the screw with hot melt adhesive.
11. The entire structure is pulled into the riser so that the upper part of the pipe protrudes 100 mm above the riser opening. In this case, the auger must remain inside the cyclone body.
12. Cut off the neck and bottom of a 5 liter eggplant so that Bottom part the cone fits tightly onto the upper end of the sewer pipe. The outer diameter of the connection is glued with a gun.
13. The upper hole of the neck is glued to the outlet of the inner pipe.
14. A storage bottle is screwed into the bottom cap.
15. Hoses are inserted into a horizontal pipe, the second end of which is connected to the nozzle of the shavings and sawdust collector of a woodworking machine (circuit saw, router or other equipment).
16. The vertical outlet is connected to the branch pipe by the hoses of the vacuum cleaner. The chip ejector is ready for use.

The debris “flows” down the surface of the auger and ends up in a bottle (garbage container). The air, freed from solid inclusions, goes up the inner tube. To clean the drive, just unscrew plastic bottle from the cork and shake out all its contents.

Cyclone from a road token

The original method of making a cyclone from a road chip attracts many homemade enthusiasts. The shape of the chip is a cone made of fairly thick plastic.

Proceed as follows:

1. The bottom and top of the cone are cut off with a hacksaw or circular saw.
2. The chip is turned over and inserted into suitable container, which will serve as a garbage container.
3. Measure the diameter of the upper opening and cut out a round lid of the appropriate size from dense material.
4. A hole is cut in the lid with a crown into which a PVC pipe ø 40 mm is inserted.
5. cut out side hole teardrop-shaped, into which a corner PVC pipe is glued.
6. All connections are treated with a hot glue gun.
7. The chip ejector is connected by hoses to a vacuum cleaner and a chip collection nozzle.

Upon completion of the work, the device is ready for use.

Do-it-yourself snail for chip removal

Power of a household vacuum cleaner for some types of processing wooden blanks may be insufficient. To clean large volumes of air, they make a snail-type chip extractor with their own hands. The body of the device resembles a snail shell in its shape.

Craftsmen make the snail body from two types of materials - metal and wood. Creation metal case will require application welding machine and ability to operate this equipment. There is another way - making a snail from construction plywood.

To work with plywood in a home workshop, you need to have a jigsaw, drill and other woodworking tools. The most important detail exhaust fan is the air intake wheel. It is made from lightweight materials such as wood, plastic and the like. The impeller is assembled in such a way that the blades are curved or turned with the inner edge relative to the wheel radius line by 450.

The outlet hole is connected to the cyclone filter using adapter couplings and hoses. The axis of the air intake wheel is connected directly to the electric motor shaft or a belt drive is installed, which is preferable to coaxial joining. Firstly, the pulley on the wheel axle is easier to isolate from the side opening of the volute, which increases the performance of the device. Secondly, the removal of the electric motor contributes to its necessary cooling.

The feasibility of using snails is due to large production volumes. The engine power is selected in accordance with the operating mode of the exhaust fan. Usually it is enough to install a motor with a power of 5 kW to 30 kW asynchronous type. It is advisable to connect the power unit through a shaft speed control device.

Conclusion

A do-it-yourself cyclone filter not only ensures cleanliness in your home workshop or living space, but also protects the respiratory tract and lungs of the people around you. The existence of various “recipes” for making a cyclone with your own hands confirms that, if desired, every lover of making homemade products can do this.

No matter how extensive the range of vacuum cleaners on the market is, not everyone can afford to provide themselves with the appropriate units for industrial and domestic needs. The reason for this is often the high cost of industrial vacuum cleaners. On the one hand, cleaning a garage or workshop takes a lot of time, and on the other, a vacuum cleaner costs from $500 to $1,000 with a large dust collector and good suction performance. Great solution may cause problems homemade vacuum cleaner for the workshop, made by yourself. It’s enough to remember how well we know how to make something. The same principles can be applied when a factory-made home assistant fails in terms of compromising the integrity of filters or dust collection devices. To implement such a project, you will need to be patient and have some available tools that may be gathering dust idle in the far corner of the garage. A homemade vacuum cleaner is easily suitable for cleaning indoors, will help collect construction waste, and will allow you to remove dust flying out from under work surface power tools.

Homemade filter for a vacuum cleaner

Initially, before you start stocking up on materials for making the unit, you should clearly define the tasks that the vacuum cleaner must solve. Thus, a waste collection container can be a couple of liters for cleaning in an apartment and other domestic premises, or several tens of liters for cleaning construction waste on work sites or garages. Perfect for this container large barrel or a small bucket from under any construction material, the main thing is that you have the opportunity to ensure that this container is sealed during the garbage collection process. If the required degree of tightness is not achieved, small fractions of dust sucked in by the air flow will enter the air at home or into the air through the openings. working area. The situation is much worse when removing harmful chemical substances And building materials, since in the form of dust or aerosol in the air of the work area they can worsen well-being and harm human health.

Besides air pollution, poor sealing will result in loss of suction power. If instead of a garbage container, you decide to make homemade bag for a vacuum cleaner, it must also retain dust and not allow it to escape into the environment.

The size of the cells between the fibers must be such that dust of a certain size is contained within the bag and is not blown back into the room. Of course, in domestic premises the type of dust and its size are greater than dust from construction waste and dust flying out from under operating power tools.

How to choose a pump?

The device for creating an air flow can be taken from a ready-made vacuum cleaner that has been used, but for one reason or another is unsuitable for use. further exploitation, but you can use any pumping device, meeting the requirements:

• Must work in mode rated load a long time sufficient to complete the assigned tasks and all manipulations;
• It must withstand overload, both short-term and long-term, so that a clogged hose does not lead to overheating and failure.
• Must provide sufficient suction force, taking into account installed filters and other obstacles in the path of air flow.

In areas where it is not required high strength suction, the role of a pump can be performed by a regular home vacuum cleaner, for example with a bag dust collector. To do this, the bag dust collector is removed and connected to it necessary components elements.

Making a filter

The optimal solution for creating a filter device for a homemade vacuum cleaner would be a homemade cyclone filter. The manufacturing principle is quite simple: You need to make a structure from a cylinder with two holes for the inlet and outlet of the air flow sucked in by the vacuum cleaner and a truncated cone directed downward. Any material from metal to plastic can be suitable for these purposes. The only requirement for the entire cyclone design is high-quality sealing of all cracks and holes. The reason is the same as for the dust collector: the appearance of a dust fraction in the air and a decrease in the performance of the unit. Consider the option of making a homemade cyclone for a vacuum cleaner from plastic pipes. The only difficulty in manufacturing will be the conical part, which will have to be selected from finished parts or make it yourself. To make it you will need:

1. pipe with a width of 100 mm and higher, the larger the pipe, the more quality work it will be possible to obtain a cyclone filter;
2. two small diameter pipes for inlet and outlet. On average, pipes from 50 mm and below are taken, depending on the diameter of the working hose.
3. conical part, the larger diameter of which corresponds to the diameter big pipes(cylinder).
4. For wide cylinders, 150 mm in diameter or more, a cord or flexible tube small diameter for filter guide.
5. A cap that will fit snugly into the top opening of the cylinder.
6. glue or soldering material, sealant.

A homemade cyclone vacuum cleaner will thus be much cheaper than a factory one due to a cheap filter, the cost of which will cost 8 - 10 dollars in contrast to the original factory cyclone filter. Initially, a wide pipe is taken, chosen as a cylinder, and cut to the required height (if you were unable to purchase the right size). The holes for the inlet and outlet should be cut as carefully as possible, avoiding chips and uneven edges. If the air suction hole should be located in a horizontal plane, then the air flow outlet hole can be located both on the pipe itself and on the top cover of the cyclone filter. It’s worth starting from where it’s most convenient to provide high-quality sealing. If the cover material is much easier to cut and the sealant adheres normally, then it is better to give preference to the cover; otherwise, the outlet should be placed on the body. The main condition is that the outlet pipe must be located above the inlet. This will allow the debris to fall down, allowing only air and fine dust to reach the outlet. To catch such dust, you can use some homemade filters, for example, fabric ones or adapting a car filter, this will protect a homemade construction vacuum cleaner from types of debris hazardous to the engine.

To create a turbulence in the air flow that is sucked into the cyclone, a flexible hose or cord made of waterproof material should be glued in a spiral pattern over the surface of the cylinder. Such a spiral will increase the efficiency of the cyclone filter. It should be noted that this addition can only be performed for a pipe large diameter, into which it will be easy for you to penetrate with your hands. The inlet and outlet pipes are fixed in the corresponding holes using sealant, heat shrink, adhesives or pieces of pipe, which are sealed with a soldering iron. The main task of this material is to firmly secure and seal the tubes. The top cover should fit snugly against the edges of the cylinder; you can secure it with sealant if desired, but then the cleaning process will become more complicated internal surfaces cyclonic filter from accumulated debris. We should also not forget that the surface can become electrified and accumulate a static charge, which will retain dust. Therefore, it is better to immediately install the cover on the door seal, this will prevent dust from entering the room and will make it possible to freely open the cover in right moment. The cone part can be strengthened with sealant or glue, since it is unlikely to have to be removed. Through the hole in the truncated cone, garbage will spill into the garbage container.

Such a device can be useful not only for those who are thinking about how to make a homemade vacuum cleaner, but also for owners of factory-made working vacuum cleaners. If you are tired of constantly changing the dust collection bag or the filters become clogged, then installing a homemade cyclone will help solve this problem without extra costs to purchase a new vacuum cleaner.

If you decide to make an industrial vacuum cleaner, then you can mount a socket on it to connect a power tool, which will allow parallel operation of the vacuum cleaner and the tool. A system for automatically turning on the vacuum cleaner can be connected to the socket circuit, which will ensure dust suction when starting the tool. In addition, such a system can provide a delay in turning off the vacuum cleaner after opening the power circuit of the power tool. This will allow the industrial vacuum cleaner to collect flying debris and dust within a few seconds after turning off the power tool.

What should you consider when making a homemade vacuum cleaner?

When making homemade vacuum cleaners, some craftsmen, in order to save their own time and effort, include factory parts and spare parts in the unit. In most cases, such a step is quite justified, with the exception of cases of installing filters. For a homemade vacuum cleaner, you should avoid installing the notorious HEPA filters at all costs. These filters work on the principle of trapping small dust particles in the pores of the filter itself. Because of this, as the filter fills with debris, the suction power and, consequently, the quality of cleaning will gradually be lost. All possible attempts to clean such filters do not lead to the expected results, since the dust is not completely blown out, and when washed and washed out, it leads to rotting processes and the development of bacteria. It is clear that these bacteria are blown back into the room during operation; this process is expressed in unpleasant smell while the vacuum cleaner is running.

To optimize the operation of the vacuum cleaner, you can connect two hoses - one for suction, the other for blowing, the blowing hose will allow for effective cleaning various surfaces And hard to reach places, since the immediately blown dust will be collected by the retractor hose. However, the lack of a filter in a regular vacuum cleaner can also lead to the opposite effect, because in order not to use it, it is necessary to provide the device with an ideal cleaning system, and doing this at home is oh so difficult. So if you need real cleanliness, it’s better to save on something else and choose a reliable and filter-free cleaner to clean both the air and the surfaces. And all this about the separator apparatus! So good luck with choosing and using a vacuum cleaner.

Article about how I did it homemade construction vacuum cleaner with a cyclone type filter. The performance of this useful homemade product for home You can appreciate it by watching a video of his work.

To demonstrate the work, I collected a bucket of sand. In general, I am satisfied with the result of the work done (given that this is a working prototype layout, so to speak).

I’ll say right away: this article is a statement of my history of creating my first (and, I think, not the last) homemade cyclone vacuum cleaner, and I am in no way going to impose anything on anyone, prove or claim that the solutions described here are the only correct and error-free ones. Therefore, I ask you to be understanding, so to speak, “understand and forgive.” I hope my little experience will be useful to “sick” people like me, for whom “a bad head does not give rest to their hands” (in the good sense of this expression).

I once thought about the upcoming renovation and the ensuing consequences in the form of dust, construction debris, etc. And since it is necessary to groove, saw concrete and “perforate”, the experience of the past suggested that it is necessary to look for a solution to these problems. It is expensive to buy a ready-made construction vacuum cleaner, and most of them are designed anyway with a filter (in some models even with a special “shaker”) or a paper bag + filter, which gets clogged, worsens traction, periodically requires replacement and also costs a lot of money. And I just became interested in this topic, and a “pure sporting interest” appeared, so to speak. In general, it was decided to make a cyclone vacuum cleaner. A lot of information was gleaned here: forum.woodtools.ru I did not carry out special calculations (for example, according to Bill Pentz), I did it from what came to hand and according to my own instinct. By chance, I came across this vacuum cleaner on an advertisement website (for 1,100 rubles) and very close to my place of residence. I looked at the parameters, they seem to suit me - he will be a donor!

I decided to make the cyclone body itself metal, because there were strong doubts about how long the plastic walls would last under the influence of “sandpaper” from a stream of sand and pieces of concrete. And also about static electricity when rubbish rubs against its walls, and I didn’t want the future homemade vacuum cleaner threw sparks at its users. And personally, I think that dust accumulation due to static will not have a positive effect on the operation of the cyclone.

The general scheme for constructing a vacuum cleaner is as follows:

The polluted air passes through a cyclone, in which large particles settle into the lower waste container. The rest goes through the car air filter, the engine and through the outlet pipe to the outside. It was decided to make a pipe for the outlet as well, and the dimensions of the inlet and outlet should be the same. This will allow you to use a vacuum cleaner, for example, to blow something off. You can also use an additional hose to release the “exhaust” air outside so as not to raise dust in the room (this suggests the idea of ​​installing this unit as a “built-in” stationary vacuum cleaner somewhere in the basement or on the balcony). Using two hoses at the same time, you can clean all kinds of filters without blowing dust around (blow with one hose, draw in with the other).

The air filter was chosen to be “flat”, not ring-shaped, so that when turned off, any debris that gets there falls into the garbage bin. If we take into account that only the dust remaining after the cyclone gets into the filter, then its replacement will not be required soon as in usual construction vacuum cleaner with filter without cyclone. Moreover, the price of such a filter (about 130 rubles) is much cheaper than the “branded” ones that are used in industrial vacuum cleaners. You can also partially clean such a filter with a regular household vacuum cleaner by connecting it to the inlet pipe of the “cyclone”. In this case, garbage will not be sucked out of the garbage disposal. The filter mount is made dismountable to simplify its cleaning and replacement.

A suitable tin can was very useful for the cyclone body, and the central pipe was made from a can of polyurethane foam.

The inlet pipe is made with plastic sewer pipe 50 mm into which the hose included in the vacuum cleaner is inserted quite tightly with an appropriate rubber coupling.

The second end of the pipe goes into a rectangle, so to speak, to “straighten” the flow. Its width was chosen according to the smallest diameter of the hose inlet (32 mm) so as not to clog. Approximate calculation: L= (3.14*50 mm - 2*32)/2=46.5 mm. Those. pipe cross-section 32*46 mm.

I assembled the entire structure by soldering with acid and a 100-watt soldering iron (it was practically the first time I worked with tin, except for soldering boats in childhood, so I apologize for the beauty of the seams)

The central pipe was soldered. The cone was made using a pre-fitted cardboard template.

The housing for the auto filter is also made using galvanized templates.

The upper part of the central pipe of the air duct was bent into the shape of a square and the lower hole of the autofilter housing (pyramid) was adjusted to it. Put it all together. I made three guides on the sides of the cyclone can to increase rigidity and fastening. The result is something like this “gravity”.

For the garbage disposal and engine compartment I used 2 barrels from machine oil(60 liters). A little big, of course, but this is what we managed to find. I made holes in the bottom of the engine compartment for attaching the cyclone, and glued sponge rubber onto the contact surface of the garbage disposal to seal around the perimeter. After that, I cut a hole in the sidewall for the inlet pipe, taking into account the thickness of the rubber cuff.

The “gravitapu” cyclone was secured with M10 studs and fluoroplastic nuts to prevent unscrewing due to vibration. Here and further, all places where tightness is necessary were connected with rubber seal(or rubber washers) and auto sealant.

To connect the engine compartment and the garbage bin I used latches from the military wooden boxes(special thanks to Igor Sanych!). I had to ferment them a little in a solvent and “adjust” them with a hammer. Fastened with rivets (with rubber gaskets from the chamber).

After that, for greater rigidity and noise reduction, I foamed the entire structure polyurethane foam. You can, of course, fill everything to the top, but I decided to play it safe in case the need arises to take it apart. In addition, everything turned out quite tough and strong.

For ease of movement and carrying of the garbage bin, I attached 2 door handles and 4 wheels with brakes. Since the waste container barrel has a flange at the bottom, to install the wheels it was necessary to make an additional “bottom” from a plastic sheet 10 mm thick. In addition, this made it possible to strengthen the bottom of the barrel so that it would not “squish” when the vacuum cleaner was running.

The base for attaching the filter funnel and the engine platform was made of chipboard with fastening to the barrel along the perimeter with furniture “Euro-screws”. To fix the engine platform, I glued 8 M10 bolts onto epoxy (I think 4 would be enough). Painted it. I sealed the perimeter of the filter installation site with sponge rubber.

When assembling, I coated the neck of the autofilter housing around the perimeter with sealant and tightened it to the base with flat-headed self-tapping screws.

The engine platform was made from 21 mm plywood. For a more uniform distribution of air over the filter area, I used a router to select a 7 mm recess in the area.

To collect the exhaust air and mount the engine, the plastic engine compartment found in the vacuum cleaner was used. “Everything unnecessary” was cut off from it and the outlet pipe was glued onto epoxy reinforced with self-tapping screws. Everything is assembled together using sealant and using metal profile(thick sponge rubber is inserted into it) is pulled to the engine platform with two long M12 bolts. Their heads are recessed flush into the platform and filled with hot-melt adhesive for tightness. Nuts with fluoroplastic to prevent unscrewing due to vibration.

Thus, a removable motor module was obtained. For easy access to the auto filter, it is secured using eight wing nuts. The oversized washers are glued (the shrouds have not escaped).

I made a hole for the outlet pipe.

I painted the entire “pepelats” black from a spray can, after sanding and degreasing.

The engine speed controller used the existing one (see photo), adding to it homemade circuit For automatic start vacuum cleaner when turning on the power tool.

Explanations for the homemade vacuum cleaner diagram:

Automatic devices (2-pole) QF1 and QF2 protect, respectively, the circuits for connecting power tools (socket XS1) and the speed control circuit of the vacuum cleaner engine. When the tool is turned on, its load current flows through diodes VD2-VD4 and VD5. They were selected from the reference book due to the large voltage drop across them with forward current. On a chain of three diodes, when one (let’s call it “positive”) half-wave of current flows, a pulsating voltage drop is created which, through fuse FU1, Schottky diode VD1 and resistor R2, charges capacitor C1. Fuse FU1 and varistor RU1 (16 Volt) protect the control circuit from damage due to overvoltage, which can occur, for example, due to a break (burnout) in the chain of diodes VD2-VD4. The Schottky diode VD1 is selected with a low voltage drop (to “save” the already small Volts) and prevents the discharge of capacitor C1 during the “negative” half-wave of the current through the diode VD5. Resistor R2 limits the charging current of capacitor C1. The voltage received at C1 opens optocoupler DA1, the thyristor of which is connected to the control circuit of the engine speed controller. The variable resistor R4 for regulating the motor speed is selected with the same value as in the vacuum cleaner regulator board (it is removed) and is made remote (in the housing from the dimmer) for placement on the top cover of the vacuum cleaner. A resistor R removed from the board is soldered in parallel to it. The “on/off” switch S2 in the open circuit of the resistor R4 is used to manually turn on the vacuum cleaner. Switch S1 “automatic/manual”. IN manual mode control S1 is turned on and the regulator current flows through the chain R4 (R) - S2 is turned on - S1. In automatic mode, S1 is turned off and the regulator current flows through the chain R4 (R) – pins 6-4 DA1. After turning off the power tool, due to the large capacity of capacitor C1 and the inertia of the motor, the vacuum cleaner continues to work for about 3-5 seconds. This time is enough to draw the remaining debris from the hose into the vacuum cleaner.

The automatic start circuit is assembled on breadboard. Switches S1, S2, dimmer housing (to accommodate variable resistor R4) and socket XS1 were selected from one not very expensive series, so to speak, for aesthetics. All elements are placed on the top cover of the vacuum cleaner, made of 16 mm chipboard and covered with PVC edging. In the future, it will be necessary to make insulated housings for the boards to protect live parts from accidental contact.

To power the vacuum cleaner, a three-core flexible cable in rubber insulation KG 3*2.5 (5 meters) and a plug with a grounding contact were selected (do not forget about electrical safety and fight static electricity). Considering the short-term intermittent operation of the vacuum cleaner together with a power tool, the selected cable cross-section is sufficient not to heat up. A thicker cable (for example, KG 3*4) is correspondingly heavier and rougher, which would create inconvenience when using a vacuum cleaner. It was decided to discard the device for winding the cable, which was in the donor vacuum cleaner, since the contacts existing there would not withstand the total load of the vacuum cleaner and power tool.

The top cover is secured with a pin and wing nut.

To make it easier to remove the top cover, the motor is connected to the control circuit via a connector. The motor housing and the vacuum cleaner are connected to a protective grounding conductor. To cool the regulator circuit, I drilled a small hole in the outlet pipe to create an air flow inside the engine compartment housing.

In order to be able to insert a garbage bag into the garbage bin, the top edge was covered with a rubber door seal cut lengthwise.

To prevent the garbage bag from being sucked into the cyclone due to air leaks through leaks, it is necessary to make a small hole in it.

The finalization and testing of the resulting vacuum cleaner took place when the repairs had already begun, so to speak, in “combat” conditions. The traction, of course, is many times more powerful than that of a household vacuum cleaner, which would not be enough for even a couple of minutes of working with construction waste. Relatively heavy concrete debris is almost completely deposited in the garbage container and the additional filter does not need to be cleaned for a long time, while the draft is uniform and does not depend on the degree of filling of the garbage container. Dust from putty (in the form of flour) is very light and, accordingly, is less filtered by the cyclone, which forces you to periodically clean the autofilter. The task of making a vacuum cleaner was not set and therefore this function no test was performed.

CONCLUSION and CONCLUSIONS:

The resulting device eventually turned out to be functional and has already been tested during the renovation of one room. Now I consider it more like a working model from the “will it work or not for fun” series.

The main disadvantages of this design:

— relatively large dimensions are not convenient for transportation in a car, although the vacuum cleaner moves around the room very easily on wheels. You can use 30 liter barrels for example. As operation has shown, such a large garbage bin is inconvenient to clean, and the bag with big amount debris may tear.

— the diameter of the hose can be increased, for example, to 50 mm and a hose from an industrial vacuum cleaner can be used (but the question of price arises from 2000 rubles). Although even with the existing hose, the debris collects quite quickly, unless, of course, you try to pull in half a brick.

— it is necessary to make an easily removable mount for the additional auto filter and engine for more convenient and quick maintenance and cleaning.

— you can include a thermal relay in the control circuit (just determine the response temperature) to protect the engine from overheating.

Poor screening of light fine dust, which can be solved by introducing a second stage of smaller cyclones.

In conclusion, I would like to thank all my friends who helped with ideas and materials in the construction of this “pepelats”. And a special big thank you to my beloved wife Yulia for supporting me in my hobbies.

I hope my little experience will be useful to readers.