What you need for a stove in the house. How to make a brick stove correctly. Advantages of the simplest furnace designs

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For a long time, stoves for heating a home have been traditional heating structures and not only boilers, but also various other heaters cannot be compared with them in many respects. They provide “living” heat; in addition, they are distinguished by practicality and unpretentiousness in the use of solid fuel. In addition, a self-built stove will last for many years.

Stoves for heating a private home are considered an ideal choice for country real estate. A high-quality heating structure can provide residents with a comfortable stay in each of the building’s rooms. Read also: "".

DIY stove: how to do it right

At a time when stoves were the main method of heating in houses, their construction and repair were carried out by craftsmen - stove makers. Nowadays, if they have certain skills, home craftsmen have the opportunity to build a stove with their own hands. In the absence of experience in construction work, it is advisable to entrust the arrangement of such a heating structure to professionals. We should not forget that the stove is a high-risk object.

Before you start building brick heating units yourself, you need to understand their main types and operating features:

• heating stoves - they are intended exclusively for heating the house. Their masonrycarried out quickly, since their design is simple (more details: " ");
• Heating and cooking stoves - today they are considered the most popular and in demand. In addition to heating rooms, you can also cook food on them, saving good money on gas and other modern coolants (read: " ");
• for cooking, a special stove is built into the heating structure, and, if desired, even an oven;
• stoves-fireplaces - thanks to the installation of such units, you can save space in the house, thereby creating more comfortable living conditions and ensuring efficient heating of rooms (read: ""). It takes a little time to light them. Fireplace stoves have a presentable appearance that can decorate any room, both in a small country house and in a luxurious country villa (read also: " ").

Do-it-yourself home stoves are distinguished by shape. For country houses, rectangular, square or round designs are most often chosen, and such a variety of models allows you to settle on the optimal option, based on the purpose and interior of a particular room.

In addition, regardless of the type, type and size of fuel used, the stove must meet certain fire safety requirements. The base for a brick heating structure must certainly be concrete. Read also: "".

Location of heating stoves

When installing stove heating yourself, it is necessary to provide the most optimal location for installing the heating unit. If, for example, you place the structure in the middle of the room, then its heat transfer will be the highest possible, since it will heat the space from all sides, while evenly releasing heat to the air.

In the case when the stove is placed near the wall, convection currents of cool air emanating from doors and windows will begin to actively move around the house. As a result, with this arrangement of the heating structure, residents will constantly feel the cold “stretching” up their legs.

Before laying the furnace device, it is required, according to the installation rules, to provide for the location of the combustion chamber door (read: ""). This is necessary so that you don’t have to carry armfuls of firewood across the room, spreading dirt and soot. You can avoid such problems if you install the stove in the kitchen or in a space that is rarely visited.

Types of base for heating structures

The drawings of heating stoves provide for the arrangement of a concrete floor or the presence of its own foundation. In the latter case, the base is made in such a way that it is designed to accommodate the installation of the structure body and the walls of the chimney pipe, as shown.

Main components:

1. Firebox. When you create a stove in your home with your own hands, this element is one of the main parts of the heating unit. It should accommodate the maximum volume of firewood or other fuel to ensure the greatest performance of the structure. The size of the firebox can be different, since this parameter depends on the type of solid fuel (for example, for firewood, the height of the chamber ranges from 40 to 100 centimeters), volume, and productivity. The firebox is laid out exclusively from refractory bricks, and the thickness of its walls should be at least half a brick.
2. Ash pan. This chamber is equipped with a door and is located directly under the grate. It is designed to collect ash and supply air to the fuel. The height of the ash pit is equal to three bricks.
3. Chimney. One of the main elements that are found in every modern brick oven. Outwardly, it is similar to a coil through which flue gases move, heating the air in the room. When creating a stove for heating a house, such as in the photo, when designing a chimney for a modern heating structure, experts do not recommend including a large number of turns and bends, since they create additional resistance to the movement of flue gases, resulting in a decrease in the efficiency of heating the room.

Preparation of the solution

The stove can serve without failure for a long time if the mortar for masonry is properly prepared. It is made from sand, clay and water. It must be at the same time viscous, strong and durable. Preparing a clay-sand solution is simple: it requires clay, which is filled with water and soaked for at least a day. Then the mixture is passed through a sieve and stirred to the consistency of “clay milk” and only then the required amount of sand is added (read also: " ").

A do-it-yourself stove will be a durable and reliable structure that will last for decades if the solution is made correctly. In the event that the building materials are of poor quality, and the bricklaying was carried out without following technology, the heating unit will quickly fail and may even collapse.

Features of the furnace laying process

Before making a stove with your own hands, you should make a foundation for it in advance. Typically, bricklaying begins a month after the foundation is created. It is necessary to withstand a certain time for the stove to be efficient and of high quality, and for the heating structure to last a long time, without major repairs or alterations, while maintaining functionality and high performance.

The work of laying a brick kiln is carried out in several stages:

1. First of all, lay out the ash chamber and the bottom of the first cap with a cover. Typically, a clay-sand mixture, which has high viscosity and strength, is used for masonry.
2. The doors are mounted in brickwork, and they are fastened using galvanized wire.
3. A grate is installed above the ash pit. Then they begin to install the firebox, which is lined from the inside with fireclay bricks, placing it on the edge. When making the solution, sand and fireclay clay are used. The fire door is secured with wire and a steel plate having a thickness of 2.5 millimeters. Read also: "".
4. On the 12th row of brickwork, you should block the combustion chamber and then, using a level, install a cast-iron stove with burners. On the left side of the structure, the first cap and channel are laid, intended for summer movement.
5. After the installation of the slabs is completed, the walls of the cooking chamber are laid out. On the left side, the construction of the lower cap continues.
6. In the cooking chamber, in the inner row, a summer valve is installed, which is necessary for lighting the stoves.
7. In the 20th row, the first of the hoods and the cooking chamber are blocked. It is necessary to leave holes in the solid brickwork for the vent of the cooking compartment, the summer passage and the lifting channel. To do this, the bricks are supported on steel corners in order to strengthen the heating structure and thereby increase its reliability.
8. The portal at the cooking chamber should be closed with hinged fireplace doors. A good solution would be to equip the doors with inserts made of heat-resistant glass. If they are available, it becomes possible to control the combustion process and at the same time observe how the flames look. Read also: "".
9. After covering the cooking chamber and the lower hood using two brick rows, they begin to lay out the upper hood. Cleaning doors are installed in convenient places for use to help remove soot.
10. The walls of the hood are erected almost to the top point of the wall opening. At the top the oven is covered with two brick rows. For additional thermal insulation, the hole between the top of the unit and the overhanging lintel must be filled with mineral wool.
11. If you are making a stove yourself, place a decorative belt along its upper perimeter and begin installing a pipe that removes flue gases. A brick chimney is considered the ideal solution, since metal and asbestos pipes often burn out over time. Read also: "".

An original DIY stove is shown in the video:

Ecology of consumption. Estate: A small brick stove for a summer cottage can be made in a short time and with your own hands, without the help of a professional. We will talk about preparing the foundation, what materials are best to choose for laying a stove, and how to properly prepare brick and clay so that the stove will serve for a long time and heat your home well.

Very modest requirements are put forward for a do-it-yourself brick dacha stove. Long breaks between visits, a relatively small volume of the heated room, maximum efficiency and the use of local fuel - all these criteria indicate the choice in favor of a wood-burning stove. Contrary to popular belief, it can be done without the services of a master stove maker. Let's take a closer look at how to design and build a small brick oven for a summer cottage with your own hands.

Preparing for work

It is unlikely that you will be able to make a complex and highly efficient stone stove for a brick cottage with your own hands without construction experience. There are too many nuances and secrets hidden in the work of a professional stove maker. But small in size and simple in design, a vertical stone stove for a summer cottage can easily be built even by an untrained person. The main thing in this process is to do everything very carefully, carefully and in accordance with our recommendations.

Selection of building materials

Since the described small brick stove for a summer house is heated with wood, it is not intended for intense and prolonged heating - it can be made of ordinary, not refractory brick. Although, it is better to use heat-resistant material for the combustion chamber.

List and required quantity of materials:

• red ceramic solid brick - 700 pcs.;
• grate - 1 pc.;
• combustion door - 1 pc.;
• ash door - 1 pc.;
• soot removal channel doors - 2 pcs.;
• valve - 1 pc.

For a wood-burning stove for a summer cottage with your own hands, you need to choose a solid coreamic brick, which does not crumble from the average blow of a hammer, and at the same time produces not a ringing sound (this is a superheated brick), but a booming sound. It is desirable that the side edges of the bricks be smooth.

For the solution you will need clay. Stove makers prefer to choose “fat”, from which the solution turns out to be soft, like butter, and plastic, like soft plasticine. Such clay for building a stove for a summer cottage with your own hands can be found in construction stores or, after consulting with local residents, simply dug up in the area.

Tool

With good tools, a stove for a country house can be built quickly and easily. For work, you should prepare a level, plumb line, trowel, mason's hammer and dishes for preparing clay mortar. To cut bricks you need a grinder.

Preparing the foundation for a brick oven for a summer residence

No matter how small a brick stove you make for your own summer cottage, its weight is several hundred kilograms. Therefore, you cannot place it on the wooden floor of the room, but you will need a foundation.

To choose the right location for the foundation, you need to project the plan of the stove onto the ground so that its pipe fits between the floor beams and the roof joists. If there is a chimney in the wall of the house, then the stove for the country house should be located near it. When building a new house, a stove for a dacha can be built into the wall between the rooms. This option is very convenient: both rooms heat up equally quickly, but there will never be smoke in one of the rooms, even under the most unfavorable conditions.

The depth of the foundation must exceed the freezing depth of the soil. However, if the country house has its own deep foundation, then a combined foundation can be made for the country house stove. To do this, four lightweight concrete columns, such as those used for fences, are dug vertically into the ground. The posts should protrude from the ground just below floor level.

Between them, directly on the surface of the soil, half a brick is poured with a gravel or sand cushion. Then a layer of roofing felt or other sheet waterproofing is laid. A reinforcing metal mesh is laid on top, and a concrete foundation with reinforcement is poured on top of it. The top of the foundation must coincide with the floor level and be perfectly horizontal!

Let's start building the oven

You need to lay another layer of waterproofing on top of the foundation, and a metal sheet on top of it. The dimensions of the sheet should exceed the projection of the stove by 10-15 cm. Moreover, on the side of loading firewood it is better to make a larger outlet. Then random sparks from the blower will fall not on the wooden floor, but on the metal.

During operation, the garden stove heats up quite strongly. If the nearby wall is made of wood or other flammable materials, it must be protected with thermal insulation. The simplest protection can be a sheet of asbestos, painted with heat-resistant paint or covered with a thin plaque. Asbestos cannot be kept open, as its dust is considered very dangerous to inhale. Instead of asbestos, a do-it-yourself summer cottage stove can be insulated from wood with a slab of solid mineral wool. The material must be heat resistant. Facade construction wool is not suitable for this, since it has too low a temperature limit.

Preparing clay solution

The country stove is built on clay, not cement. The clay solution is prepared from good clay and clean river or sea sand. If the clay is not purchased, but was dug somewhere in the neighborhood, then it is worth checking its quality first. To do this, we make several test batches with different proportions of clay and sand. Roll the finished clay dough into small balls, rollers, flat cakes, and leave to dry for two weeks at room temperature.

Dried products need to be tested: throw them from a height of human height, try to crush them with a board under the weight of a weight, etc. The composition of the most durable clay sample is taken as a standard. In the figure shown, the best batch corresponds to samples “b”.

Preparing bricks and clay

The stove for the dacha is built with your own hands from pre-soaked bricks! To do this, it is kept in water for at least 8 hours. During this time, all the air will come out, and the clay will adhere well to the brick in the masonry. You need to prepare very little clay so that approximately 20-25 pieces are enough for laying. bricks. Without the necessary experience, you won’t be able to put in more at one time. The thickness of the clay mortar in the masonry should not exceed 5 mm.

Features of stove masonry

In order for a stove in the country, laid out with your own hands, to serve for a long time, each row should be checked for right angles and horizontal surface. The laying sequence is visible in the order drawing.

The cast iron doors of the blower and combustion chamber are secured using steel wire, which is embedded in the masonry. The cuts are made with a grinder. As a last resort, you can do it the old fashioned way - with a mason's hammer, but in this case there may be a lot of waste for scrap. The area for the grate should be slightly larger than the size of the grate itself. Then, when heated, the metal will not move the brick.

The solution is applied to the wet brick. Experienced stove makers do this not with a trowel, but with their hands. A good solution spreads as easily as soft butter spreads on bread.

Important Note

If during laying the brick sank lower than necessary, it should be removed, the mortar cleaned and laid on a fresh one. Otherwise, the new stove at the dacha will smoke heavily and leak soot. Unlike cement mortar, bricks cannot be moved in clay mortar!

When building a stove for your dacha, try to make the inner walls as smooth as possible. Then soot will not linger on them, and it will be easier and less likely to need to be cleaned. The outside of the country stove should also be neat and beautiful. External seams should be carefully embroidered with a needle or finger. There should also be no gaps in the places where arches and horizontal partitions are formed. It is better to lay such rows slowly, one per day, so that the lower rows have time to set, and the upper rows do not creep.

Bottom line

Despite their small size and simple design, brick country stoves are very popular for small houses, as they show very good results. They heat up quickly and are warm enough to last all day. A small brick stove for a dacha is low cost and easy to make yourself, but if you live permanently in the winter, you will have to heat it twice a day - in the morning and in the evening. published

Not a single village house can do without a stove, as it will both feed and heat. Today, gas mains have been installed in many villages, and it would seem that it is possible to switch to a more convenient heating method. However, many homeowners are in no hurry to abandon brick stoves, which provide a completely different, special warmth. In addition, in regions rich in forests, where there are no problems with firewood, it is possible to save on gas by having a brick stove in the house.

To find out how to fold, you need to study in detail the layout and masonry technology. Before you start studying a specific option, you should consider several models, since there are compact and massive structures. You need to choose a stove that will take up less space in the house, but will have all the functions that are in demand in the household.

There are a lot of models of brick stoves. Experienced stove makers can make their own changes to finished projects, since they already know by heart where and how the internal channels through which smoke is removed should go. Thanks to the correct arrangement of them in the design of the stove, it will heat up evenly and release most of the heat into the room. It is better for novice craftsmen to strictly follow the already drawn up order schemes, without deviating a single step from them, since even one incorrectly placed brick can ruin all this rather labor-intensive work.

Types of brick kilns

Based on their functionality, stoves are divided into three main types - cooking, heating and. Choosing a suitable design, Firstly you need to decide what exactly will be required of her.

The hob has a cast iron panel for cooking food and heating water. Typically, such stoves are small in size and are popular for installation in small private homes and in the country. Of course, a cooking stove can, in addition to cooking food, also warm a small room.

The heating and cooking stove is a multifunctional massive structure

A heating and cooking stove can warm a house or country house with a large area, and its design sometimes includes a stove bench, and in addition to the stove, an oven, a tank for heating water and a niche for drying vegetables and fruits are built in.

Always compact. It does not include a hob and serves only to heat the premises. Such a structure can warm two rooms if it is placed between them, built into the wall.

Choosing the optimal location for the furnace

Having chosen the desired stove model, you need to look for a suitable place for it. The structure can be installed against a wall, in the middle of a room, or built into a wall. The choice of location will depend on the size of the stove structure and the desires of the home owner.

• A stove placed in the middle of a large room can divide it into two different areas, such as a kitchen and a dining or living room. The hob will go into the kitchen, and a smooth wall with well-made masonry will become a designer decoration for the living room. Perhaps, immediately or over time, there will be a desire to add a wall to the stove and completely separate the two rooms - in this case, the partition should be insulated from the stove with non-combustible material. You can use asbestos sheets for this or install brickwork.
• It is not advisable to build a stove near an external wall, since there it will quickly cool down.
• When installing a stove between two rooms, it must also be separated from the walls with heat-resistant materials.
• The proposed construction site must be carefully measured and be sure to take into account that the foundation should be 100 ÷ 120 mm larger than the base of the furnace. In addition to the base area, you need to calculate the height of the building so that it fits well into the room in all respects.
• To make it easier to work, you need to find an ordering diagram for the selected model.

Having decided on the model and installation location, you can purchase materials for construction and prepare tools.

Tools, building materials for laying a brick stove

Depending on the size of the furnace, it requires different amounts of materials and additional cast iron and steel parts, but the tools required for masonry are the same.

Tools

Of the tools and equipment for the construction of any furnace you will need:

The “goat” is a scaffold that will make it easier to work at height when the stove is raised above human height. They are convenient because the stove master can not only climb onto them, but also place a container with a solution next to him and even put the tools and building materials necessary for this stage of work.

“Goats” will be needed when laying the top rows

Another version of the stand, more compact, is the “tragus”. You need to have two such devices, because if you place them at a certain distance from each other and lay thick boards on top, you will get the same platform. Can also be used separately, as stairs.

You can get by with a couple of more compact trestles, making temporary plank flooring on them

The following set of tools will need to be prepared:

1. A pick will be needed to separate and trim the brick.

2. A broom made from sponge, for removing dried sand and pieces of mortar from the finished laid rows of masonry and mopping inside the masonry.

3. Corner - will help bring the corners inside and outside the oven exactly 90 degrees.

4. A plumb line is needed to check the verticality of the walls.

5. A kiln hammer is also required to separate bricks into pieces and chip off small protrusions of hardened mortar.

6. Pliers will be needed for biting, bending and straightening the wire.

7. A rubber hammer is necessary for tapping bricks in masonry if it is difficult for them to fit.

8. A chisel will also be needed for splitting bricks, as well as dismantling old masonry.

9. Trowel (trowel) of different sizes - for applying mortar and removing excess.

10. The rule will be necessary to level the surface of the foundation.

11. A lead scriber is used for marking, especially in cases where it is planned to decorate the stove with tiles.

12. The knocker is a piece of pipe, which is also used for cutting tiles; instead of a hammer, it is used to hit a knife.

13. Wooden spatula - for mixing and grinding the solution.

14. Metal scriber rod for marking.

15. A level is needed to check the horizontality of the rows and the verticality of the walls.

16. A rasp is used to remove sagging and grind in lumps.

17. Jointing is necessary for neatness of the seams if the stove will not be plastered or finished with decorative tiles.

18. Container for mixing the solution.

19. A sieve that will help make the masonry mortar thin.

Construction materials

The amount of materials will depend on the chosen stove, and their list is almost always the same. For a purely heating type, you will not need a hob, oven cabinet, or water tank. But usually the standard set of cast iron and steel elements consists of the following items:

1. Blower door.

2. Door for fireboxes

3. Cleaning doors ovens.

4. Chimney damper.

5. A burner made of several rings.

6. Hob.

7. Grate.

Other metal elements you may need:

1. Oven.

2. Tank for water.

3. Metal corner 50 × 50 mm.

4. Metal strips 3 ÷ 4 mm thick.

5. Steel wire.

Directly for masonry you will need to purchase:

1. Red hardened brick.

2. Fireclay brick.

3. Ingredients for clay mortar or ready-made dry heat-resistant mixture for laying stoves.

4. For the foundation you will need cement, crushed stone, sand, formwork material and a sheet of roofing material for waterproofing.

5. You will also need heat-resistant material for protective finishing of the walls of the house and a metal sheet or ceramic tiles for the floor.

Prices for refractory bricks

Fire brick

Preparing a site for the construction of a stove

Usually the foundation for the furnace is poured simultaneously with the general foundation of the house, although it is not rigidly connected to it. However, it often happens that the furnace is erected in a finished building.

Further actions depend on what kind of floor is installed in the room.

• If the foundation is concrete and completely poured, according to the principle of a slab, and the structure of the stove is not designed to be too massive, then you can begin to lay the stove directly on the concrete floor, having first laid a sheet of roofing material under the masonry.
• If the foundation is strip or the floor is wooden, then you will have to build the foundation from scratch.

Foundation

The foundation must be deepened into the ground. To do this, a place for the stove is marked on the floor, and then the boards or thin concrete floor are removed.

• A pit is dug in the exposed soil, 400-500 mm deep.
• At the bottom of the pit, a “cushion” of 100 mm is made of sand, and then of the same thickness - from crushed stone, the layers are well compacted.
• Next, along the perimeter of the pit, formwork is installed for pouring concrete - it should rise above the main floor by 100 ÷ 120 mm
• The lower layer of the foundation, up to about half the height, may consist of crushed stone, sand and cement. It is poured, distributed in an even layer over the entire area, and left to harden.
• After the bottom layer has set well, you can pour the top layer, which will consist of a thinner solution. The space is filled with fully prepared concrete mortar and leveled using the rule, and the top formwork boards will serve as beacons for this. The foundation must dry well and gain the required strength. To do this, it must be moistened with water, starting from the second day, which will improve the uniformity of maturation of the cement mortar and prevent cracks from forming.

• A fully finished foundation (after 3 ÷ 4 weeks) is covered with roofing felt to create a layer of waterproofing. Then markings are made on this surface - the shape of the stove base is drawn, along which the first row will be laid out.

Dry masonry

• Experienced craftsmen recommend that a novice stove maker take his time laying bricks on the mortar so as not to make mistakes. Especially if this work is being carried out for the first time, it is best to dry out the entire furnace structure.
• By carrying out this process carefully, with a constant eye on the existing diagram, you can understand the internal structure of the chimney channels and the structure of the firebox and vent.
• For dry masonry, you need to prepare auxiliary slats with a thickness of 5 mm, which will determine the distance between the bricks - during the main masonry it will be filled with mortar, forming seams.
• After the entire stove model up to the chimney pipe has been laid out, it is disassembled again, while the bricks of each row can be stacked separately, if there is enough space in the room for this, and numbered, indicating the row and the specific part in it. This is especially important if, when laying dry, the bricks were adjusted to the required size.
• It should immediately be noted that during the final laying, it is also better to first lay out each row dry again, for control, and then immediately fix it with mortar.
• In addition, you need to know that when laying bricks on the mortar, it is applied with a thickness of about 7 mm, then the brick is pressed and, if necessary, tapped with a rubber hammer. Excess mortar is immediately picked up with a trowel.
• Having laid two or three rows until the solution has set, the seams are decorated with jointing. If suddenly the solution is not wet enough, you can sprinkle it with a little water from a spray bottle.
• We must not forget that during laying, constant monitoring of the vertical and horizontal rows is necessary.

Knowing these nuances, you can proceed directly to the masonry.

The presented video shows a diagram of the construction of a compact heating stove, which is suitable even for a very small room. True, there are no other additional functions included in it:

Video: heating stove for small spaces

Compact "Swedish"

Convenient, versatile and fairly compact Swedish oven

It can be called the neatest and most compact stove, suitable for small spaces. This stove can be called a heating and cooking stove, since it has a high body with smoke exhaust channels located inside, which means that when it is fired, the walls will warm up well, releasing heat into the room. At the same time, the design also includes a hob.

The first picture shows a “Swede”, which has a wider pediment than in the second photo, since it is supplemented with an oven, and instead of cleaning windows there is a drying niche above the stove. This version of the stove is twice as wide as the second model.

This is also a “Swedish”, but of a slightly different design

The ordering diagram shown below almost completely corresponds to the stove in the presented photo, with some exceptions: instead of two windows for cleaning, there is a niche above the hob, a slightly different location of the pipe - on the other side of the structure, and consistent roundness of the corners. When laid in this order, the stove will look something like this.

The structure is laid out based on the ordering diagram:

Layout diagram for laying a compact heating and cooking "Swedish"

Although this diagram shows that they begin to lay out the blower chamber from the first row, after all It’s worth laying it out in a continuous plane and only from the second row can you start working on the blower chamber. But, in order not to create confusion, the description will go exactly according to the diagram, and the first continuous row can be called “zero”.

• So, the formation of the blower chamber begins from the first row.
• A blower door is installed on the second row. The door is secured with wire and temporarily supported with bricks until it is lined with masonry on all sides.

• From the fourth row, two chambers begin to be removed for cleaning and doors are also installed on them.
• A grate is laid on the fifth row.

• The firebox door is also secured with wire to the sixth row, and is also temporarily supported by bricks mounted on the grate, and Also, if necessary, a support is also placed on the front side of the door.

• On the seventh row, the beginning of the vertical smoke exhaust channels is laid.
• On the ninth row, the firebox door is covered with a brick, the wire of which is secured and tucked into the seams between the rows.
• On the eleventh row, a hob is placed on the left opening, and strips of asbestos are placed under its edges. The front lower edge of the cooking chamber is framed by a steel angle.
• From the twelfth to the sixteenth row the cooking chamber is displayed.
• On the seventeenth row, metal strips are laid, and its upper edge is formed with a corner.
• The next two rows are laid solid, leaving only three smoke exhaust channels.
• On the twentieth row, another door is installed, and a cleaning chamber and a drying niche begin to form.
• At 22- ohm row, the chamber door is covered with masonry.
• On the 23rd row, the chamber is completely blocked, and at its end a hole is left that will continue the smoke exhaust channel.
• On 24- ohm a row of metal strips cover the drying niche.
• At 25- ohm install the cleaning chamber door.
• At 27- ohm the door is covered with masonry.
• At 28- ohm The entire chamber is completely blocked.
• At 30- ohm In a row, two valves are installed on the smoke exhaust channels. First, the frame of this part is laid on the mortar, and then the valve is inserted into it.

• From 31st to 35th th a row is laid out a segment.
• From the 35th to the 38th, the construction of the pipe fluff begins.
• Next comes the laying of the pipe, which already has your own numbering. From the first to the 26th row, the shape of the pipe does not change, you just need to very carefully monitor the evenness and internal cleanliness (from solution residues) of the smoke exhaust channels. This part of the pipe is called the riser.
• On the third row, another door is placed on the cleaning chamber.
• At 27- ohm Another chimney valve is installed in a row.
• At 29- ohm they expand the pipe by one row, and by 30- ohm it is brought into its initial form.
• Starting from the 31st row, the narrowest part of the pipe is laid out, which is discharged through the roof.

When a chimney passes through the attic floor, it must be insulated from it with combustible materials - this can be asbestos, mineral wool or expanded clay, poured into a box located around the entire perimeter of the pipe.

The hole in the roof through which the pipe passes must be closed after construction with waterproofing material, which is applied to both the pipe and the roof.

Installation of other oven elements

As mentioned above, there may be other elements built into the oven, so it is worth considering how some of them are installed.

Oven

If the design includes an oven, it is most often installed on the same level as the firebox or hob. This is important for its rapid and uniform heating.

• Metal corners are first installed in the place where it will be installed - they will become reliable supports for the cabinet.

• Next, the oven is wrapped with asbestos cord - this material is heat-resistant and will help the thin metal of the cabinet last longer.

Video: technology for laying an efficient stove with an oven

Prices for masonry mixtures and special-purpose adhesives

Masonry mixtures and special purpose adhesives

Hot water tank

The water heating tank can be installed in different ways. Sometimes it is built into the design of the furnace, in other cases it is placed on top. The main thing is that it is located next to the smoke exhaust duct, from which the water will receive the necessary thermal energy. In this case, you need to provide a hole for filling the tank with water and a tap from which it can be taken. It is advisable to make the water tank from a stainless alloy, otherwise very soon yellow water will come out of it, unsuitable for water procedures.

Another option for installing this water heating element is to install it at the same level as the hob, above the firebox, when it will only heat up from below. In this case, it is best to place a cast iron or thick steel plate under the tank, otherwise its bottom will burn out very quickly. The container in this installation option is not embedded in the walls of the oven.

The inconvenience of such an installation is that there is less space left for the hob, or the firebox will have to be made deeper, which means the overall dimensions of the stove will increase, which is not always possible in tight spaces.

When choosing a stove model for your home, you need to think through everything in advance - what functions should be implemented in it, its size and design. Based on this, it is worth choosing a building design with an ordering scheme.

It should be noted that laying a stove is a real art, and not even every experienced craftsman always succeeds perfectly. Therefore, if you do not have any skills in this work, then it is better to invite a specialist who will help you do everything correctly.

A small brick stove can sometimes be quite useful, especially if you do not have a large room and do not live in it permanently. It will quickly warm up the room and create a comfortable environment.

Today we will tell you how to make a small brick oven with your own hands, what you need to take into account for this, and we will offer instructions on manufacturing rules. You can also watch the video in this article and select the modification you need.

Mini ovens and their features

Small brick stoves for summer cottages also have their own characteristics; you should familiarize yourself with them before making a final decision.

• The compactness of a brick or appliance structure is considered the main condition for a small room;
• An important condition for such a stove is safety, because usually country houses are built from wood, which dries quickly in the sun and, if hit, can easily flare up like a match. Among other things, the chimney pipe and the device itself must be sealed, they have excellent internal draft, because carbon monoxide that gets inside can lead to quite dire consequences;
• The stove, which is placed in a summer cottage in the winter, must withstand without kindling for quite a long time and not become damp;
• Warming up and quick lighting of the device, the spread of heat is also the most important condition for a stove of this type, because when it rains or when completing difficult work, you want to relax in a warm room and drink hot tea;
• It is desirable that such a stove be equipped with large doors so that it can perform the functions of a fireplace, because it is almost impossible to do without evening gatherings next to the fire;
• Long-term heat retention is extremely necessary if you are going to a house overnight;
• It is almost impossible to do without a hob in a country house, especially if the electricity in the village periodically turns off and there is no gas supply;
• Also an important factor is the fuel used for the stove. To save money, choose an omnivorous heating device that can be heated in various ways - brushwood, coal, firewood or household waste;
• It is desirable that the stove has the ability to install a hot water supply register;
• The simplicity of the design of the heating device allows you to fold and install it yourself, which saves a tidy sum, because the services of craftsmen in this regard are not cheap;
• An important point is aesthetic appeal, because with the help of the device you can transform a room, or add a certain gray spot to the overall design.

Brick ovens

A small brick stove for a summer residence is used quite often.

But during installation you will need to consider the following points:

• The stove can be installed in such a way that it will distribute heat to several rooms without heating circuits. If the furnace was installed correctly and the valve was installed, it is considered fireproof, but a strong foundation will need to be created for this building, which will be isolated from the foundation walls. This is a basic condition; if it is not met, the masonry may lose its integrity, because when the foundation of the house shrinks, it can begin to pull on the base of the stove;

Attention: Do not forget that such stoves do not like long periods of downtime and dampness, therefore, in order for the heat transfer to be maximum after a period when it was not used, you need to carry out several drying fires without significant loads. In each of them we gradually increase the amount of fuel - this process is usually called acceleration.

• It is precisely because brick is afraid of dampness that such stoves are installed in a dacha only when people live in the house most of the time and there is the possibility of burning it;
• Residents of private houses consider only those buildings made of brick to be useful and real. At the same time, heating devices made from other materials are not recognized at all. In fact, such a stove will give the room a special coziness and unique atmosphere. And what’s more important is that they are multifunctional. Professionals in the stove business have developed a huge number of different models from which you can choose for a specific option.

Installation of a small stove

A small brick oven can be installed with your own hands without any problems.

There are two options here:

• First option, you are simply making a stove with a foundation. Then the price of the building will increase, but it will be a fairly heat-intensive structure;
• Second option, this is if you do not have enough funds and do not have the skills. Then it is quite possible to install a metal stove and simply cover it with bricks to increase the heat capacity.

Attention: In the first option, your structure will take up more space and the heat transfer will be higher.

Materials that will be required for the work

You will need:

• Twenty liters of clay mortar;
• Boards;
• About sixty bricks;
• Blower door;
• Cast iron plate;
• Fire door;
• Lattice;
• Fireclay brick.

The size of a small stove occupies 0.4 m2 and is made of brick, which is laid on an edge or flat. This type of stove perfectly retains and distributes heat.

The design is quite simple, because the mini-oven does not weigh too much and the construction of a foundation is not a prerequisite. The floor should be made of thick and durable boards that are well secured.

Such a stove on its own is an alternative to a potbelly stove, but it has more functionality and a heating part, which includes a cooking part. It also plays the role of a fireplace. Such a furnace can be erected without any problems and within 24 hours.

At the very beginning, you need to light the stove with paper and wood chips, but do not take logs, because sudden temperature changes may cause cracks in the solution. This will further lead to smoke or improper air movement.

Before starting the oven, it is necessary that it dry thoroughly. Usually this takes about a week.

Masonry mixture

Everything can be done with your own hands. Then the price will be significantly lower. It is quite possible to use several compositions in masonry. What to choose is up to you.

So:

• For bricklaying, clay-sand, cement mortar is used. For example, screenings instead of sand for the mixture are used to fill the foundation, and a mixture of cement and sand is used for one or several rows of masonry. If for the M400 cement brand ¼ is added, then for screed the screenings must be mixed in a proportion of 1/6;
• It is a little more difficult to prepare a solution of sand and clay, because it will take much more time. In order for the lumps of clay to break, they must be soaked in water in the evening, and those that remain in the same state should be kneaded with your hands so that no small lumps remain;
• The ratio of clay and sand is one to two or one to three - everything here depends on the degree of fat content of the solution (this is checked with a trowel). The consistency is considered normal when the solution slides off the trowel without any problems, leaving no traces, and in its thickness it should resemble mashed potatoes.

How to make a stove

Now let's look at how to make a small brick stove in detail. It has its own technology and procedure.

In order to properly build a stove yourself, you must follow the following recommendations:

Attention: Fire-resistant material must be used for the combustion part. It will also withstand coal burning. It is better to use a clay mixture as a solution. It is the most practical and durable.

• We choose a suitable place for the mini-stove, and instead put roofing felt, film, glassine or hydrosol into it. The size of such material should be 78x53 centimeters;
• You need to pour and level sand onto the litter (the thickness of which is about a centimeter);
• On top of it we lay the first row of twelve bricks, which do not need to be fastened together. After this, we align all the bricks to the same level so that they are strictly horizontal;
• A small layer of clay is applied to the initial row, after which you can begin installing the blower door. It is extremely important that it is wrapped in asbestos cord or cardboard. We secure it with wire, after which you can safely move on to laying the next one;
• Fireclay brick is used for the third row of the mini-stove, after which the grate is installed. It is mounted above the ashpit only when the third brick row is completely formed;
• We make the following from bricks, but we lay them on edge; in the middle of the chimney it is necessary to lay supports for the internal partitions. The back wall of the stove is laid with a slight protrusion outward and without the use of clay - they are called knockout bricks;
• After this we install the combustion door. Again, before you begin installing the door, you need to wrap it with cord in such a way that it can be opened from the bottom up. It is secured with wire and fixed for a while with several stones. The first one is placed at the back, and the second one is placed on top of the door;
• Also, to ensure reliable fastening, a wire is inserted into the holes, twisted and the ends are laid in order;

• The fifth row is made flat; here we make sure to check the outline of the previous row. But the sixth row is laid edgewise. Then we rub the walls of the large stove with a wet rag and proceed to the next stage;
• On the 7th row we lay the brick flat. Next, we place a couple of bricks edgewise and proceed to the back wall;
• When the time comes for the 8th row of the stove on your own, make sure that it overlaps the combustion door above which it will end. It is at this time that we install a beveled brick over the firebox so that the flame is directed to the center of the stove burner;
• We lay out a soaked asbestos cord in advance so that the space between the bricks and the slab is completely sealed. Since cast iron and clay have different coefficients of thermal expansion, we do not lay the slab on clay. Afterwards you can move on to the ninth row, but here it needs to be shifted so that the doors are kept open;
• When working with the following, you will need to form a chimney that will expand at the rear. To make a stove of this type, there is no need for a mounted pipe that will expand at the top, since this type of pipe will lead to a change in the center of gravity. There are various chimney designs. They are: horizontal, straight, countercurrent, combined, and so on. In our design, the stove should have a direct version;
• When working with the next row, do not forget to insert a plug, which is sealed with a cord (it is advisable to additionally coat it with clay);
• Thus, the pipes will be connected to the metal one. If the chimney goes to the side, then it must be covered with several rows of bricks;
• After this, we remove the brick from the fourth row and clean the pipe from dirt that has accumulated during construction work;
• We whiten the stove. We protect the metal part of the stove itself and its walls with film. To prevent it from turning yellow over time, you need to add milk and a small amount of blue to the solution. Each piece of the stove must be processed in the most careful way, special attention is paid to the joints of bricks and cast iron surfaces;
• Carefully seal the gaps between the first row and the floor. This is necessary so that the sand that was poured under the brick does not spill;
• Afterwards, we nail a plinth along the edge of the building, which will protect the stove from sand spills. We nail it level and tightly to cover all the cracks. Thanks to such actions, the stove will look even better;
• As soon as you carry out the first fire with wood chips and paper, leave all the doors and burners in the open position for several days so that everything dries thoroughly.

A small brick stove for a summer house is made quite quickly and will last a long time. The main thing is to look at the photo and choose the option you want. The instructions will prevent you from making mistakes.

If you are planning to build a country house, maximally equipped for comfortable living in it, then you usually cannot do without a small stove, especially if you plan to use it most of the year. The lack of experience in stove work should not stop owners who want to install the stove themselves. You just need to choose a suitable, not particularly complex option, the design of which is simple and understandable.

In addition, for a large heating structure with an intricate configuration of internal channels, as a rule, there is simply not enough space in a country house. Let's consider easy-to-use options that are suitable for both a small house and a novice stove maker. – in a word, laying a stove with your own hands is simple and practical.

To make it easier to decide on a suitable model, it is necessary to highlight several conditions that are important for the right choice. Well, then consider several options, settling on the optimal one for the specific area and configuration of the premises of the house.

General requirements for brick kilns

The conditions that the chosen design must meet will directly affect the quality of heating of the house, so you should not neglect the information, which, on the contrary, should be paid close attention to. These factors include:

• The dimensions of the furnace structure must correspond to the area on which it is installed, since heat transfer largely depends on this parameter.
• In addition, it is necessary to choose the correct shape of the furnace structure. The side walls of the furnace, when heated, provide more heat, while the indicator for the front and rear walls is 3–4 times lower. Therefore, if you need to heat two rooms at once, you should choose a narrow and long stove that can be built into the wall between the rooms.

For heating efficiency, a T-shaped stove is often installed. It can be intended only for heating or perform two functions if you choose a model that includes a hob. Such a stove can heat up to four rooms with a small area.

• The next condition that is important to consider is the location of the structure inside the house; it should be as rational as possible. In order for the stove to be functional, to work as a heating and cooking device, it must be installed so that the hob faces the kitchen, and one or both side walls look into the living rooms.
• When choosing a stove, it is very important to take into account its heat transfer - this parameter must correspond not only to the area of ​​the rooms, but also to their location and the number of external walls. This table will help you decide on the choice of stove based on its surface area, depending on the characteristics of the room:

Room area, m²	Not a corner room, inside the house	Room with one outside corner	Room with two external corners	Hallway
	Furnace surface opening into the room, m²
8	1.25	1.95	2.1	3.4
10	1.5	2.4	2.6	4.5
15	2.3	3.4	3.9	6
20	3.2	4.2	4.6	-
25	4.6	6.9	7.8	-

• There is no need to play it safe and choose a massive stove for a small house, since warming it up will take a lot of time and a fairly large amount of fuel, despite the fact that a significant part of the generated heat will simply be “thrown down the drain.” In addition, small structures sometimes work even more efficiently than structures that occupy half the room, since heat transfer largely depends on the internal design of the stove, and not just on its massiveness.
• Any stove, even the most heat-intensive one, will be ineffective if the house is not insulated, since all the heat it produces will escape through the walls, windows and ceilings. These will require a very large amount of fuel to maintain the temperature in the rooms at an acceptable level for living.

If you plan to save on fuel while receiving high-quality heating, you should insulate the building well and choose a bell-type stove, which, thanks to its numerous channels, will retain the heat transferred to the living quarters for a long time.

How to choose the right place for the stove?

The location of the stove in the house is determined in advance, even before its construction, when drawing up the project, so you can install the heating structure in the right area, where the heat from its walls will be rationally distributed throughout the house. In addition, laying out a foundation for a stove before building a house is much simpler both in terms of calculations and the amount of work involved. It must be said right away that the base for the stove must be installed separately from the foundation of the house, that is, there must be a distance of at least 150 mm between their walls. Otherwise, during shrinkage (and it will definitely be uneven for structures of different mass and area), one of the foundations may begin to collapse, and the walls installed on it may begin to deform.

• If there are several rooms planned in the house, then the stove must be installed so that it is located at the crossroads of the walls dividing the house into rooms. But, since the foundations of the buildings should not touch each other, the internal walls will have to be made light, without foundations. This option is presented in the diagram above.
• In some cases, home owners prefer to install a stove near the entrance from the street, since thermal radiation from the walls creates an excellent curtain from cold currents.
• Placing a firebox close to the front door will eliminate excess debris in living rooms, since you won’t have to bring firewood or other fuel into them. However, when installing the stove in this way, it is necessary to position the firebox door so that it is impossible to get burned on it.
• The walls of the heating structure should not be closely adjacent to the walls of the house, that is, free access must be provided to any of them, since for safety reasons they require periodic monitoring, and the internal channels of the furnace require cleaning of the chambers. Sometimes the stove is part of the wall of the house, in which case reliable heat insulation is laid between it and the end of the partition.

• If the stove is installed in an already built house, then, when planning its location, it is necessary to ensure that the chimney pipe falls between the attic floor beams, which must be at a distance of at least 150 mm from it, with the creation of a thermal insulating “gasket” filled with heat-resistant material. To do this, most often a metal box is fixed around the pipe, which is filled with fine expanded clay, mineral wool, vermiculite, or simply sand.
• The area in front of the furnace firebox must be covered with heat-resistant material - it can be a metal sheet or ceramic tiles.

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Models of simple-designed small brick ovens

Small brick kilns do not lose their relevance today. And this is despite the emergence of alternative heating options, since many of these new products are too expensive, while others are unavailable in suburban conditions. The stove, traditional for Russian houses, will help out in any situation - it will warm the house and cook food. Therefore, if there is no gas supplied to the house, and the electricity is often cut off, or you just want to save money on it, you should choose a stove that includes a hob. Knowing the demand for small-sized stove models, engineers have developed quite a lot of their options. Some of them will be discussed further.

Oven "Krokha"

The name of the model “Krokha” itself speaks about the size of this stove, and it is suitable for a residential building with any area. Moreover, if the structure is installed correctly, it is quite capable of heating not one, but two whole rooms and a kitchen. For a country house, this compact stove will be an ideal option, as it can create coziness in spring and autumn, as well as in damp or cold weather in summer.

This stove is called a “simple stove” because it is simple in design, and with a serious approach it can easily be built even by a novice master. The stove has very small dimensions, only 640x770 mm at the base, so it is suitable even for a small room where it will be decided to allocate a corner for it.

The designer of the stove, A. Sushkov, successfully combined compactness, elegance and functionality in it, so “Krokha” will fit perfectly not only into a cottage room, but will also decorate the interior of a private home with its cozy appearance. This stove is designed to heat one or two rooms with an area of ​​18÷20 m², and has the following characteristics:

Oven parameters	Numeric parameter values
Width and length at base	3×2.5 bricks or 640×770 mm
Height of structure to pipe	2030 mm
Oven weight	1260-1280 kg
Firebox depth	746 mm
Efficiency	Up to 70-75%
Heat transfer with a disposable firebox	1760 W
With a three-time fire	2940 W
Hob	Single burner

The designer thought well about the rationality of the stove, so for its small size it gives excellent heat transfer. During the combustion process of this model, its lower section warms up, and the “cap” located in the upper part retains the generated heat well and slows down its escape into the chimney. The stove is equipped with a “summer” operation, which allows you to heat only the hob without heating the entire structure, which is especially important in the warm season. “Krokha” has three design options that differ in the location of the hob relative to the firebox, but most often the improved and most convenient version is used, in which the stove and firebox are located on one side. This arrangement is convenient because the stove can be installed in such a way that the firebox and stove will be in the kitchen, and the other two walls, if built into the partition, will heat two rooms located across the wall from the kitchen area.

In order for the stove to last as long as possible and be safe, its fuel chamber is lined with fire-resistant fireclay bricks. Such walls can withstand not only the heat of wood, but also fuel such as coal, briquettes and peat.

Up to the level of the stove, the stove has smooth walls, and above the combustion door, under the hob, along the entire perimeter of the building, a row protruding forward by 30÷35 mm is laid out, which divides the structure into two sections: the upper, air-gas, and the lower, fuel. At the top of the furnace there are channels for circulating heated air. They help retain heat in the oven for as long as possible, preventing it from immediately escaping into the chimney.

According to the developer's idea, this stove should be equipped with a combustion door with fire-resistant glass, through which the flames are clearly visible. Therefore, if desired, “Krokha” can be used as a small fireplace. Such a door may well be replaced with a conventional cast iron version.

Since the oven is small around the perimeter, it will require fewer consumables.

	Size in mm	Quantity, pcs.
Fireclay brick SHA-8		21
Red brick (without chimney pipe)		352
Curly (rounded) red brick		124
	350×250	1
Glass combustion door in a cast iron frame (DP-308-1S)	210×250	1
Cast iron ash door	140×140	1
	410×340	1
Metal sheet for flooring in front of the firebox	500×700	1
Chimney damper	130×250	1
Steel corner	40×40×5×520	4

Compact stove model - “Baby”

The main advantage of the model is its small size, 505×760 mm at the base. Well, the low weight, only 360÷365 kg, allows the structure to be installed on a strong, heat-insulated wooden floor. A small stove has relatively thin walls, so when it heats up, it quickly begins to release heat into the room, in which a comfortable temperature is created in a short period.

When laying this stove model, it is important to take into account one point - in the first bottom row of the rear wall, the middle brick must be left free, that is, laid without mortar. This must be done so that after completion of the masonry, the brick can be pulled out and the bottom of the stove can be cleaned of fallen mortar. In addition, the resulting hole will help dry the finished structure faster. Then, the brick can be installed in place using the mortar.

If the stove is planned to be installed on a wooden or concrete floor, then a heat-resistant layer is laid on it before laying. Typically, an asbestos sheet 5 mm thick is used for this, which is covered on top with a metal sheet or roofing felt and an additional continuous layer of brickwork. In addition, it must be remembered that a metal sheet or ceramic floor tiles must be laid and secured in front of the stove.

The first heating of the finished stove should be carried out with light fuel - it can be paper or straw. After the stove is heated, its doors and valves are opened for ventilation and final drying, which must be carried out for at least 7-9 days.

After drying, it is recommended to whitewash the stove. The question arises: . Smoke will immediately appear on the whitewash layer if there are small gaps that are invisible to the eye between the mortar and the brick. Smoke will leave black or gray streaks on the whitewash that will stretch upward from the defective seam. When such marks appear, the seam from which they come must be completely cleaned of the frozen solution and filled with a new one, but more carefully and carefully.

You might be interested in information on how to make with step by step instructions

If you plan to decorate the outer walls of the “Malyshka”, then you can start this only after two to three months of using the stove.

The chimney of this model has such a design that it can be brought outside in three ways:

• Having raised the brickwork of the chimney to the ceiling, bring it out through the attic and the roof of the house;
• By embedding a steel pipe into it and connecting it to the main chimney;
• An embedded pipe can be taken out through the wall, having previously secured the opening of its passage with heat-resistant material.

This diagram will help you understand the design of this brick stove model, since it clearly shows the number of rows and the configuration of the smoke exhaust channels.

The main characteristics of the Malyshka stove are as follows:

Oven parameters	Numeric parameter values
Width and length at base	505×760 mm
Height of structure to pipe	725 mm
Oven weight	360÷370 kg
Firebox depth	737 mm
Chimney duct cross-section size	100×100 mm
Efficiency	Up to 70-75%
Heat dissipation	1210 W
Hob	single burner

To build the Malyshka stove, you will need the following materials and ready-made elements (if you do not take into account the chimney pipe):

Name of materials and components	Size in mm	Quantity, pcs.
Fireclay brick SHA-8 for firebox		37
Red brick		62
Cast iron ash door	140×140	1
Cast iron fire door	210×250	1
Single burner cast iron stove	410×340	1
Cast iron grate	350×200	1
Chimney damper	130×250	1
	550×800	1

Prices for fireclay bricks

fireclay brick

It should be noted that this model can be easily improved, despite its compactness. Some craftsmen manage to add an oven and a tank for heating water to its design. In this configuration, “Malyshka” can be used as a sauna stove.

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Heating stove with a small footprint

This mini-oven model has only one heating function. It can be used for installation in a country house if, in addition to it, there is an electric or gas stove for cooking, and there is no need for a hob. Otherwise, its installation will be irrational.

It is also suitable for a private house in which you need to heat two adjacent rooms by building the stove into the wall between them.

The advantage of this model can be safely called its compactness and high heat transfer. The side walls of the stove have a fairly large area, therefore, when heated, they will become a kind of “battery” the size of half a wall, which will quickly and efficiently transfer heat to the premises. The total heat transfer from this model is about 2000 W, with the front and rear walls accounting for 210 W, and the side walls accounting for 895 W each.

The heating stove has a more complex internal structure, consisting of several channels, which provide excellent heat transfer from the walls. Since the oven has a decent height, it will require more material.

The characteristics of this mini-oven model consist of the following parameters:

In this case, the design of the furnace, just like the structure of the “Krokha”, can be divided into two sections: the upper – gas exhaust, and the lower – combustion. The upper part of the furnace, the “hood,” consists of vertical channels connected to each other by horizontal ones. Thanks to this feature, warm air lingers inside the structure longer, warming the entire area of ​​its side walls.

To build this model you will need the materials listed in this table:

Name of materials and components	Size in mm	Quantity, pcs.
Red brick		260
Fireclay brick SHA-8 for the combustion department		130
Cast iron grate	250×400	1
Cast iron ash door	140×200	1
Cast iron fire door	200×300	1
Cleaning doors	140×200	2
Chimney damper	130×310	2
Roofing felt sheet for waterproofing	1000×600	2
Metal sheet for flooring under the stove and in front of the firebox	500×700	1

To make the work easier, craftsmen use special ordering diagrams, which must be followed when laying each row.

Prices for chimney valves

chimney valves

This sequence diagram shows the laying of the furnace from the first to the twelfth row. Construction can be carried out on an equipped foundation or on a prepared waterproofed concrete floor. Since the structure is quite massive and bulky in height, it cannot be installed on a wooden floor.

• Roofing felt is laid under the masonry in two layers, and to simplify the alignment of the first row, the boundary of the base can be drawn on the waterproofing material with chalk using a long ruler.
• When laying the first row, we must not forget that the horizontal and verticality of the furnace walls will depend on its quality and accuracy. Therefore, before starting work, it is necessary to prepare control tools - a plumb line and a building level. Some craftsmen also practice stretching horizontal cords for each row.
• As you can see in the diagram, a blower door is mounted on the second row, and a vertical smoke exhaust channel is formed.
• On the fifth row of masonry, a grate is installed, which will block the blower chamber and mark the bottom of the combustion chamber. Starting from the fifth and ending with the 15th row, the masonry is made with fireclay bricks.
• On the sixth row, in front of the grate, the combustion door is installed and secured with wire.

Prices for roofing material

roofing felt

• The following diagram represents the order, starting with the 13th row and ending with the 24th row. This shows the gradual formation of vertical channels and the combustion chamber, so it is very important to carry out the masonry in accordance with the diagram. Otherwise, the entire work may be ruined and will have to be redone.
• Having finished laying the fifteenth row and the walls of the sixteenth, a clay-cement mixture is laid out in the resulting space, and the cleaning chamber door is installed. Further, up to the 25th row, the masonry is carried out according to the order scheme.

• On the 25th row, the bottom of the second cleaning chamber is formed. To do this, a layer of clay-sand mixture is laid on top of the brickwork of the 24th row. Then the cleaning chamber door is installed.
• On the 28th and 32nd rows, two chimney valves are installed, with the help of which it will be possible to regulate the draft.
• The remaining rows are laid according to the diagram, and from the 35th row the laying of the chimney pipe begins.

Heating and cooking "Swedish" - a detailed description of the furnace laying

General description and required materials

In the final section, a fairly popular Swedish stove model will be presented. It was chosen for a detailed description because, with its simple design and compact size, it is multifunctional and very comfortable to use.

This version of the heating and cooking stove has a good location of all functional elements - they are located on one front side of the structure. Therefore, such a “Swede” is usually installed in such a way that the hob, oven, drying niches and, of course, the combustion chamber face the kitchen, and the smooth rear brick wall, which warms up perfectly during the fire, faces the living room.

The dimensions of this design are 1020x885x2030 mm, with a power of 2750 kcal/hour, so the stove is capable of heating one or two rooms with an area of ​​up to 30 square meters. m.

The presented version of the “Swede” was created for certain operating conditions. So, it was created for heating a country house, 4000x7000 mm in size, built from sand-lime brick or blocks. However, this model is also suitable for houses of other sizes, as evidenced by its heat transfer parameters.

• Wood and other types of solid fuel can be used as fuel for this stove.
• For this model, only the internal lining of the combustion chamber and the areas located next to it is carried out. Therefore, fireclay brick will not interfere with the aesthetic appearance of the stove facade, made of high-quality red brick. External finishing is not provided.
• In order for the stove to be efficient and meet the heat transfer characteristics, its walls must be relatively thick (half a brick), so installing bricks on spoons is not allowed.
• In this design, the laying of a drying chamber is mandatory.

If you decide to use this development, you should first consider the table of necessary materials and calculate their cost for your region of residence.

You may be interested in information about which one is best to use when building fireplaces and stoves.

Table of materials that are needed to build a heating and cooking “Swedish”:

Name of materials and components	Size(mm)	Quantity (pcs.)
Red solid stove brick (excluding pipe height)	250×120×60	551
Fireclay refractory brick Ш-8	250×124×65	31
Blower door	140×250	1
Fire door	210×250	1
Doors for cleaning chambers	140×140	3
Oven	450×250×290	1
Cast iron two-burner cooking stove	410×710	1
grate	200×300	1
Chimney damper	130×250	1
Steam exhaust valve	130×130	1
Steel corner	45×45×5×1020	1
Steel strip	45×45×5×700	1
Steel strip	45×45×5×905	5
Steel strip	50×5×650	2
Drying rack	190×340	1
Metal sheet covering drying chambers	800×905×0.5÷1	1
Pre-furnace metal sheet	500×700×1.5÷2	1
Asbestos sheet or twine for laying between brick and metal elements.	5mm thick	1

Step-by-step instructions for laying a heating and cooking "Swedish"

Illustration	Description of the work procedure
	The first continuous row, consisting of 28 red bricks, must have a perfectly flat surface and right angles, since it is the basis on which all other vertical and horizontal planes and rows will be oriented.
	The second row is laid out from 28 ½ red bricks, also with solid masonry, but its pattern has a slightly different configuration. This point must be taken into account when carrying out work, because the seams between the masonry of the lower first row should not coincide with the seams between the bricks of the upper second row. In other words, the bricks must be laid staggered, with overlapping seams.
	On the third row, the formation of the lower heating chamber, which will be located under the oven, and the blower begin. Vertical smoke exhaust channels also begin to form. When laying out a row, they leave peculiar windows for installing the doors of the cleaning chambers for the vertical channels, as well as the blower and the lower heating chamber. After completing the installation of this row, cast iron doors are fixed into the windows. After this, work is done inside the structure - two whole and two three-quarter bricks are mounted on a spoon. Moreover, the corner of the brick installed in the right vertical channel is cramped for more unhindered air circulation. In addition, a fourth part of fireclay brick is installed in the first chimney channel - it is highlighted in yellow in the figure. To lay this row you will need ½ fireclay bricks and 14½ red ones.
	Fourth row. At this stage, channels and chambers continue to form, according to the diagram, and the chimney channels still remain united. For a row you will need ½ fireclay bricks and 14½ red ones.
	When working on the fifth row, the previously installed doors overlap. The side walls of the combustion chamber bottom are lined with fireclay bricks. Moreover, in the brick that will be laid on the sides, it is necessary to cut steps for laying the grate. The second and third vertical channels remain combined, but are shared with the right first channel. To install this row, you need to prepare 8 fireclay and 16 red bricks.
	The sixth row is laid out according to the pattern. At this stage, the second and third flue ducts are separated from each other, and there should now be three separate ducts at the rear of the stove. The base for the oven and the inner walls of the firebox are lined with fireclay bricks - it is placed on a spoon. The wall between the oven niche and the fuel chamber is built from quarters of fireclay bricks. Next comes the stage of installing the firebox door, also in the window left for it between the bricks. The door frame must be wrapped with asbestos material so that there is an expansion gap between it and the brick for the expansion of the metal when it is heated. Temporarily, the door can be supported with stacks of loose bricks until it is firmly fixed by the next rows of masonry. In addition to the door, an oven is installed, which is also pre-wrapped in asbestos. For the laying of this row and the internal arrangement of the niches, 13 red and 3½ fireclay bricks will be required.
	For greater clarity, this figure shows the sixth row laid out with the oven box installed.
	On the seventh row, the firebox and oven chambers continue to be formed - the internal lining is made of fire-resistant brick, and the external masonry is made of red brick. Fireclay brick is installed on a spoon, red brick on a bed (flat). To work you will need 13 red and 4 fireclay bricks.
	On the eighth row, the first chimney channel is separated from the chamber where the oven box is installed, with fireclay bricks. The rest of the masonry follows the presented scheme, and it uses 5 fireclay and 13 red bricks.
	Ninth row. At this stage, the door of the combustion chamber is blocked with a brick. The remaining work is carried out according to the diagram shown, and for them you need to prepare 5 fireclay and 13½ red bricks.
	On the tenth row, the oven is covered with masonry. The wall between the oven and the firebox is not laid out. A 10x10 mm step is cut into the refractory brick installed along the inner perimeter of the front of the stove, intended for laying the cast iron hob. This row will require 4½ fireclay and 15 red bricks.
	Having laid out the tenth row, an asbestos cord is laid on a step cut out of fireclay bricks along the entire perimeter of the internal space. Then, the hob itself is mounted - it should be located on the same level with the outer walls of the oven, built of red brick. In front of the laid slab, on the front wall, a steel corner (45x45x1020 mm) is mounted, designed to protect the brick corner from damage and generally strengthen the row.
	On the 11th row, the walls of the cooking chamber are formed. The gap that has formed between the hob and the right wall of the stove is filled with bricks, which are mounted across the masonry of the 10th row. To work you need to prepare 16 pieces of red brick.
	For the 12th row you will need 15 red bricks - the laying proceeds according to the presented scheme.
	The 13th and 14th rows are laid out according to the serial pattern shown. For the 13th row you will need 15½, and for the 14th - 14½ bricks. Here you need to take into account that the seams between the bricks of the bottom row must be covered with a whole brick, which means that the 14th row will have a different pattern from the 13th.
	The 15th and 16th rows are also laid according to the order pattern. For them you need to prepare: for the 15th row - 16, and for the 16th - 14½ red bricks.
	After completing the laying of the 16th row, the cooking chamber must be covered with three steel corners measuring 45x45x905 mm. In the middle part of the space above the chamber, two corners are placed side by side, with vertical walls facing each other, and one corner at the end of the chamber. In addition to them, a strip measuring 45x45x700 mm covers the front part of the chamber. These elements form a reliable support for covering the chamber with bricks, so the corners should be laid at a distance of 255 mm from each other.
	The masonry of the 17th row consists of 25½ bricks, which cover the space of the cooking chamber. Moreover, a hole is left in the far left corner of the ceiling to extract vapors from the cooking chamber - its size should be half a brick. In addition to the ceiling, the laying of vertical channels continues.
	The 18th row is laid out almost completely, but the exhaust and vertical channels remain open. To work you will need 25 bricks.
	After this, a steel corner measuring 45x45x905 mm is installed on the front edge of the masonry. This element is intended to strengthen the ceiling of the exhaust chamber window, since it must support two rows of upper masonry.
	On the 19th row, small and large drying niches begin to form, as well as a continuation of the ventilation duct designed to remove vapors from the lower cooking chamber. The work is proceeding according to the scheme, and for laying you need to prepare 16 red bricks.
	The 20th row also consists of 16 bricks and is mounted according to the diagram shown.
	The 21st row consists of 16½ red bricks. It is laid out according to the diagram shown.
	The 22nd row is laid out with 16 red bricks.
	After laying out the 22nd row, a metal plate measuring 190x340 mm is mounted on the small drying chamber, which will act as a heated shelf.
	23rd row. At this stage, the walls of the smoke exhaust channels and drying chambers continue to rise. A cutout is made on the brick laid above the steam outlet channel, into which a valve will be mounted to regulate the heating of the cooking chamber. The next step is to place a valve with a size of 140×140 mm on the prepared seat. For this row you need to prepare 17 red bricks.
	On the 24th row, the ventilation valve is closed, as well as the first and second chimney ducts are combined. To work on this row you will need 15½ bricks.
	On the 25th row, three vertical channels are combined into one. For this row you need to prepare 15½ red bricks.
	The 26th row consists of 16½ bricks and is laid according to the demonstrated pattern.
	Further, on the same 26th row, the drying chambers are covered with a steel corner measuring 45x45x905 mm and two steel strips measuring 50x5x650 mm. The angle placed on the front side of the drying chambers is intended to increase the rigidity of the structure, and also, together with the steel strips, to create a base for the steel sheet covering the chambers.
	A sheet of metal measuring 800×905 mm is laid on top of the steel strips and angles. It covers the surface of the chambers and vertical ventilation ducts, except for one chimney duct, into which smoke will flow from all other ducts. The chimney pipe will be built above it.
	On the 27th row, continuous brickwork is laid on top of the metal sheet. It should protrude 25 mm beyond the perimeter of the oven cross-section. To lay this row you will need 32 bricks.
	The 28th row completely overlaps the previous one and protrudes beyond it by another 25 mm. The chimney opening remains open. To lay out this row you will need 37 red bricks.
	Row 29 will require 26½ red bricks. They are laid out with an indentation of 50 mm inward from the edge of the previous row, essentially bringing it to the size of the perimeter of the base of the oven.
	The 30th row of the furnace masonry is already the first row of the chimney superstructure. A row consists of 5 red bricks. At the top of the side bricks laid in this row, a 10x10 mm step is cut out - it will serve as a seat for the chimney damper, measuring 250x130 mm. Next, the valve frame itself is mounted on the clay mortar.
	The 31st row is the second row of the chimney. It overlaps the edges of the chimney damper, thus fixing it from above. The row also consists of 5 bricks. Work on the construction of the chimney will begin above.

The lower diagram with a section of the design of this furnace shows the direction of circulation of fuel combustion products. It clearly shows that hot gas flows, thanks to vertical channels, cover the entire surface of the furnace, heating it, and from a well-heated surface, heat is effectively transferred to the heated room.