What to do with grapes in June July. How to care for grapes in summer to get a good harvest? Pruning and thinning of leaves
How to care for grapes and reap a decent harvest, despite the capricious climate, imperfect soil and aggressive diseases?
The task is not easy, but real. After all, on your side is the experience of winegrowers who have walked this path before you. Feeding, garter, treatment for diseases and pests, pruning, pinching, cuttings. We have prepared for you a calendar of main work in the vineyard.
March
At the beginning of the month, weather permitting, begin pruning uncovered grape varieties. It is important to finish it before the buds on the bushes begin to swell. If you linger, active sap flow will begin. Then pruning can lead to “crying of the vine” and drying out of the bush.
Pruning, breaking off and pinching shoots, as well as pinching are mandatory procedures for the formation of a grape bush If you are unlucky and the plant “cries,” you can lubricate the cut oil paint on natural drying oil with the addition boric acid or use ready-made drugs, for example, “Artificial bark”.
Also in March you can start updating the trellises, because... in subsequent months, winegrowers usually have much more trouble.
Caring for grapes in April
It's time to turn close attention on thermometer and weather forecast. If frosts down to -10°C are not expected, then it’s time to free the grapes from winter shelter and check how the plants survived the winter. If you find mold, do not immediately run for disinfectants and medicinal products. Most likely, it will disappear as soon as the bush dries out and is ventilated.
But preventive spring spraying of grapes special drugs - a prerequisite for obtaining a good harvest. Both the plants themselves and the soil around the bushes are treated.
As soon as the air temperature rises to 4-6°C, carry out the first preventive spraying of the bushes with a 3% solution copper sulfate. This will help protect the vines from diseases and rodents.
In the second half of April, after the buds swell, you need to tie the sleeves of the grapes at an angle, and the fruit shoots horizontally. In order for grapes to develop correctly, they need reliable support, which is most often served by trellises. In addition to their main function, they provide access to light and air to the leaves of the plant, and can also decorate your site, masking unsightly elements of the landscape and architecture. Trellis are easy to make with your own hands.
Immediately after the buds swell, you can plant cuttings prepared in the fall. This will allow you to get bunches from one bush different varieties, will save space in the garden and also increase the winter hardiness of plants.
IN southern regions from the end of April you can begin to plant rooted grape cuttings. When choosing a site, it is important to consider that it is not only heat-loving, but also light-loving plant. Bushes should receive maximum amount sunlight from early morning until three o'clock in the afternoon. Therefore, it’s great if you have the opportunity to plant grapes on a southern or southwestern slope protected from the wind.
The grapes have a powerful root system, so their neighbors will not be happy. It is better to place it no closer than 4 m from other trees and shrubs Grape care May
When the young shoots of the grapes outgrow the first tier of wire, it is necessary to make another garter. At the same time, you must not forget to remove the stepsons and excess upper inflorescences, as well as break off the grape shoots, removing all weak and overgrown shoots (when they reach 10-15 cm). To do this, press your finger on the bases of unnecessary branches, easily getting rid of them.
These shoots can be used for cutting green cuttings, from which strong seedlings will grow by autumn.
In the last month of spring, characteristic red spots sometimes appear on grape leaves. The usual cause is non-infectious or infectious rubella. In the first case, the plant simply signals you about a potassium deficiency in the soil. The entire bush is covered with spots, and the veins of the leaves become thicker. Over time, the vine may well die. Therefore, at the first signs of non-infectious rubella, it is necessary to change agricultural practices. You can start spraying the plants potassium nitrate(Dissolve 20-25 g of dry fertilizer in 10 liters of water and use no more than 1 liter of composition per square meter).
To combat non-infectious rubella, it is usually necessary to carry out no more than five treatments of the vineyard every eight days The causative agent of infectious rubella is a marsupial fungus. It attacks the vine in stages, so red spots gradually appear here and there. The leaves of a diseased plant need to be treated with 1% Bordeaux mixture or 0.3% solution of copper oxychloride. It is important that the fungicide gets on both sides of the leaf.
In spring, grapevines are quite vulnerable to fungal diseases, so it is important to treat the bushes with fungicides in advance - before the flowers appear. Most often, grapes are affected by oidium (powdery mildew) and mildew (downy mildew). In the first case, colloidal sulfur or the complex drug Quadris will help fight the disease. With a false powdery mildew can be dealt with by using Azophos.
Caring for grapes in summer
June
At this time, the bush grows green mass and becomes heavier. It is necessary to regularly tie it to the trellis, pinching it and removing excess clusters to prevent shoots from breaking off.
Our help! Usually the top clusters on the shoots are removed, because they develop less well, and the berries on them are usually smaller than on others.
When the berries reach the size of a small pea, you can treat the plants with Ridomil Gold or Topaz (according to the instructions).
In summer, you can also carry out foliar feeding (by leaves). For better formation ovaries, you can use phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, the drug Ovary or other similar products.
You shouldn’t get too carried away with watering; grapes don’t like it. In most areas, it is enough to moisten the soil once or twice a month, but generously so that the water certainly reaches the roots of the plant.
Our help! It is not advisable to water the grapes during flowering and shortly before it begins.
This month it is necessary to treat the grapes with antifungal drugs (for example, Flint Star or Quadris), and then feed them with fertilizers containing an NPK complex (Aquarin, Novofert, Plantafol, etc. are suitable).
If early varieties of grapes (ripening dates) grow on your site, then at the end of July you can already expect the first harvest.
Caring for grapes in August
From this month the mass ripening of grapes begins. But it’s too early to forget about caring for the vines. In the last month of summer, the bushes should be fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. The same can be done if hot weather plants lack moisture (5-10 g of fertilizer must be dissolved in 10 liters of water). In this case, it is advisable not to use fertilizers containing nitrogen, otherwise, instead of starting to prepare for winter, the plants will continue to grow green mass.
August is the time for tapping vines (removing the tops of all shoots with 6-8 upper leaves), this procedure helps the plants prepare for winter.
In the last month of summer, some diseases may also become more active. If you notice brown spots and a gray coating on the leaves, as well as discolored spots on the vine, your plants are likely victims of gray rot. To combat it, you can spray the bushes with a solution of potassium permanganate (5-7 g per 10 liters of water). If a light coating appears on the leaves and clusters, there is a high probability that the vines are affected by oidium. In this case, the bushes that still have grapes are treated with colloidal sulfur, and on the rest they are used complex preparations(Flint Star or Strobe - according to the instructions). From folk remedies quite effective and safe method It is considered that grapes are treated with ash infusion (1 kg of ash per 10 liters of water, leave for 2-3 days, stirring occasionally).
September
The most pressing issue this month is harvesting.
If you see that not all the bunches have time to ripen before frost, remove the weakest of them, this will help the rest to ripen At the beginning of autumn, fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers is still relevant. But it is better to postpone the use of nitrogen fertilizers until spring.
Caring for grapes in October
The beginning of the month is the time to autumn planting grape seedlings. Read about how to do this correctly in our material Planting grapes in the fall: when and how to do it.
The end of October - beginning of November is a great time for autumn pruning already growing grapes and cutting cuttings for winter rooting.
Old vines need help preparing for winter. A couple of weeks after the leaves fall, you should cut off all unripe parts of the shoots and dig up the soil under the bushes to prevent the spread of infectious diseases.
You can treat the plants with a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate. This will help protect the grapes from fungal diseases. Some experienced winegrowers claim that, among other things, processed iron sulfate bushes are less attractive to rodents.
Caring for grapes in November
Mature vines must be bent to the ground and sprinkled with peat or sawdust, or covered with spruce branches or spunbond. But before this, it is important to water the plants, because... Dehydrated grapes survive winter worse. It is also advisable to bend the shoots of uncovered varieties to the ground, and mulch the soil under the bushes.
In December, you can finally relax and enjoy the fruits of your labor. The only thing a dormant vineyard needs is winter season- This is protection from frost. Therefore, if you are not sure that the vines are securely covered, you can throw fresh fluffy snow on them. But if at some point you get bored without the traditional hassle and care of green pets, you can always organize a small home garden. And in February, remember again about the grapes and start rooting the cuttings prepared in the fall at home.
Grapes in January
Prepare organic fertilizers(humus, compost, wood ash) and buy mineral ones (Kemira, Master, Novofert, Plantafol, etc.). Also in the next season you will need protection against diseases and pests (fungicides, acaricides and insecticides).
Check the condition from time to time planting material. When the root system of the seedlings dries out, moisten them; if, on the contrary, they are too wet, you need to open them slightly for ventilation.
If the weather is warm and sunny, you can prune uncovered grape varieties.
During these months, you can check the condition of the shelter grape bushes.
If snow falls, you can throw it on the bushes.
Inspect the trellises. If they are faulty, have them repaired. It is also worth clearing the wire from any remaining vines.
Inspect the vineyard tools for serviceability. If necessary, purchase a new one or one that is missing.
Grapes in fevral
Continue the unfinished work to prepare for the new season in the vineyard, taking into account all the lessons from the previous year.
IN room conditions You can already start growing green seedlings (from cuttings).
From time to time check the condition of planting material in storage. The root system of seedlings should not be overdried or waterlogged.
You can also prune uncovered varieties.
Purchase the fertilizers you will need for planting grapes in the spring: superphosphate and potash fertilizers.
Purchase in advance sufficient quantities of pest and disease protection products. They should be purchased from reputable stores so that you can be sure of their quality. From mildew, oidium and anthracnose: “Quad-rice”, “Cabriotop”, “Horus”, “Strobe”, “Flint”, from oidium: “Topaz”, “Tilt 250”, “Vectra”, from tick: “Neoron” ", "Omite", "Tiovit Jet", from thrips: "Nurel D", "Fastak", for eradicating sprays against all diseases and pests "Dnok", "Nitrafen".
Grapes in marte
It is advisable to finish pruning uncovered grape varieties before the beginning of March or in the first week, in order to avoid spring weeping of the vines.
Inspect the trellises for serviceability and free them from garters and remnants of vines, if this has not been done previously.
Purchase seedlings of the desired varieties in advance so as not to look for them in April - May, when it is already necessary to plant.
Check the availability of the necessary mineral and organic fertilizers, both for planting and for feeding grapes throughout the year.
It is also necessary to purchase in advance the missing means of protection against pests and diseases for the entire season, while there is still time and there is little work in the garden.
Decide on the place where you will plant the grapes. This should be a well-lit area.
Prepare supports and wire for installing the trellis. You will need it for tying grapes.
Grapes in aprele
Open the bushes at the beginning of the month, as soon as the soil dries out and if cold temperatures of -10 °C are not expected for the next week. This applies to coverings with earth on chernozems and loams. The cover with peat, sawdust or pine needles is removed until the eyes swell.
At the beginning of April, add organic matter to the grooves from which the soil was taken to cover the bushes and mineral fertilizers and cover with soil.
You can make liquid fertilizing, combining it with moisture-recharging watering. And, without untying, attach the bunches of vines vertically or obliquely to the trellis. Clean them of soil and plant debris with a brush if you plan to eradicate diseases and pests (if the bushes are severely damaged).
Carry out eradicative spraying of bushes against diseases and pests if they were severely affected last year. Use Nitrafen at the rate of 200-300 g of paste per 10 liters of water or Dnok. Treatment is carried out at a temperature of about +4-5 °C
After opening, the bushes may be covered with a white coating of mold. After a couple of hours, after airing, the plaque will disappear.
In the second half of the month, when the likelihood of frost decreases and always before the buds swell, make a dry garter. Tie the sleeves obliquely, and all the fruit shoots - horizontally to the first wire of the trellis, while the ends need to be slightly bent downward in an arc. In a correctly formed bush, the fruit shoots evenly fill the first wire, without intersecting or overlapping one another.
In mid-April, you can begin to plant woody grape seedlings.
Grapes in May
Start green operations early. The first cutting of excess shoots is carried out after the buds open. Remove unnecessary swollen buds on perennial parts of the bush. Also remove doubles and tees on the fruit shoots, leaving the most developed ones. Perform the next cutting of shoots when they reach a length of 10-15 cm.
Carry out the third cutting when the shoots reach a length of 35-40 cm. In this way, the load of the bushes with shoots and inflorescences is finally established.
Remove green shoots on the sleeves, as well as excess shoots on the underground part of the bush.
When 4-5 leaves form, treat the bushes against pests and diseases with fungicides. If there is no oidum, anthracnose, black spot and they were not rampant last year, treatment in the northern regions can be skipped.
If a grape mite appears, treat the bushes before flowering (at the stage of 9-12 leaves) with one of the acaricides.
Make the first garter of green shoots when they outgrow the wire by 15-20 cm.
10-12 days before the grapes bloom (at the end of the month), apply a second liquid feeding.
Remove shoots from growing shoots.
Remove excess upper inflorescences (2,3,4th) to regulate the load on the bush, and leave the lower ones when they just begin to differ.
At the end of May, finish planting annual woody seedlings, and when the threat has passed spring frosts, plant green vegetative plants in pre-prepared holes.
Grapes in June
Continue planting young vegetative seedlings
Pinch out the growing points on the grapes (before they bloom) by 5-10 cm on vigorous shoots. This is necessary for better pollination of plants.
Before flowering you can do foliar feeding“Plan-tafol NPK” (10:54:10, plus microelements, flowering and budding) at the rate of 25-50 g per 10 liters of water.
Before flowering, treat the grapes with fungicides. This is due to the fact that during the period of flowering and setting berries, diseases and pests pose the greatest danger to grapes. But at this time, pesticide treatment is undesirable to avoid burns. And just during flowering northern regions Mildew and oidium appear.
As they grow, tie the shoots to the trellis.
Carry out pinching regularly. After flowering, you can apply foliar fertilizing with Planta-Folom (ovary, 0:25:50).
Normalize the harvest by removing excess bunches.
In case of overloading, first of all, clusters are removed on shoots where there are two of them (remove the top one - it is smaller), on replacement shoots, as well as on underdeveloped, damaged shoots with a small number of leaves above the bunch.
As soon as the berries reach the size of a pea, carry out a second spraying with fungicides: “Ridomil Gold” + “Topaz”.
At the end of the month (during the pea growing period), feed the bushes with liquid. Take care of young plants planted on permanent place. Water, fertilize and protect against diseases.
Grapes in July
During this period, it is important to protect grapes from fungal diseases. Treatment is carried out in hot, dry weather 20 days after the previous one. Using systemic drugs, pay more attention to oidium. In this case, the drug "Flint" is more effective. In rainy weather, treatment is done after 15 days, using “Quadris”. It works well against mildew and at the same time protects against oidium.
Feed the grape bushes in early July, while the berries are pouring, with preparations containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium or “Master” (20:20:20,18:18:18) at the rate of 50 g per 10 liters.
For a quick effect, you can apply foliar feeding with Plantafol (20:20:20), Aquarin or Novofert.
It is also necessary to feed young seedlings planted in a permanent place with mineral fertilizers at the rate of 25 g per 10 liters of water.
Carry out green operations regularly: tying growing shoots to the trellis and removing shoots.
At the end of the month they begin to ripen early varieties grapes: “Russian Early”, “Korinka Russian”, “Super Extra”.
Grapes in August
Perform green operations: remove the shoots, tie the growing shoots to the trellis.
Feed the fruiting bushes at the beginning of berry ripening with mineral fertilizers without nitrogen.
In early August, feed young bushes planted in a permanent place with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, without nitrogen.
If it is clear that the plants do not have enough moisture (the leaves lose turgor and wither in the middle of the day), conduct moderate watering while simultaneously applying phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (5-10 g per 10 liters of water). Stop watering in the second half of the month.
In the middle of the month or at the end, mint.
If the vine is not ripening well, apply foliar fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers: monopotassium phosphate or Plantafol (0:25:50). Treat once every 7-10 days upper tier leaves.
Make the final treatment of grapes against mildew, oidium on very early and early terms ripening (August 5-10), using "Quadris".
At the first symptoms of gray rot, carry out preventive spraying with potassium permanganate (5-7 g per 10 liters of water).
From mid-August, early grape varieties are already ripening.
Grapes in September
On varieties of early-medium ripening, carry out the same work as in August on very early and early varieties.
If an overload of the harvest of a particular bush is detected, it is necessary to reduce the number of bunches on this grape. It must be remembered that, first of all, nutrients are used to ripen the crop, and only after that to ripen the vine.
Carry out foliar feeding of grape bushes with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, as in August.
If foci of oidium appear on bushes without a harvest, treat with Flint or Strobi. Bushes with harvest are treated with colloidal sulfur or potassium permanganate.
In the first ten days of September, early-medium grape varieties begin to ripen: “Nadezhda Azos”, “Talisman”, etc.
Grapes in October
At the beginning of the month, plant woody grape seedlings. Grapes planted in October take root well. Then the bushes must be covered with peat or pine needles. Dig up seedlings from the school.
Put them in storage or plant them in a permanent place. Leave plants without good shelter it is impossible, because there is a high probability of them freezing. Covering a schoolchild is a labor-intensive task. The same applies to seedlings from cuttings.
The harvest must be completed.
If in the previous year the bushes were heavily damaged by pests and diseases, carry out eradication treatment (see April).
After frost and foliage fall, prune the vines after 2 weeks.
If necessary, prepare cuttings of the varieties you are interested in.
After pruning the covering varieties of vines, remove them from the supports, tie them in an inclined state into bunches and place them in the grooves.
If the summer and autumn were dry, carry out moisture-charging irrigation (50-60 liters of water per bush).
Burn all plant debris, leaves, pruned vines. They are not used for compost to avoid the spread of infection.
To reduce infection, dig up the soil between rows.
Grapes in November
It is necessary to complete all work to prepare the grapes for wintering.
In the first ten days of the month, complete pruning of covering grape varieties (see pages 30-31).
Also, before the soil freezes, it is necessary to finish covering the bushes for the winter if soil is used. Where another covering material is used (peat, sawdust, pine needles), having previously made grooves along the trellis, you can wait with the covering: a well-ripened vine can be hardened at temperatures down to -7-10 ° C.
Do the last moisture-charging watering of this season, if you did not do it at the end of October. Keep in mind that dehydrated grapes survive winter worse.
Clear the trellises of any remaining vines and remove the garters.
Organize all the tools you used to work in the vineyard and store them away until next season.
Grapes in December
Prepare organic fertilizers (humus, compost, wood ash) and purchase mineral fertilizers (Kemira, Master, Novofert, Plantafol, etc.).
Also, next season you will need protection against diseases and pests. From mildew, oidium and anthracnose: “Quadris”, “Cab-ryotope”, “Horus”, “Strobe”, “Flint”, from oidium: “Topaz”, “Tilt 250”, “Vectra”, from tick: “Neoron” ", "Omite", "Tiovit Jet", for thrips: "Nurel D", "Fastak", for eradicating sprays against all diseases and pests: "Dnok", "Nitrafen".
Periodically check the condition of the planting material. When the root system of the seedlings dries out, moisten it; if, on the contrary, it is too wet, you need to open it slightly for ventilation.
In warm and sunny weather, you can still prune uncovered grape varieties.
Inspect the trellises for damage. It is also worth clearing the wire from any remaining vines.
Purchase the tools needed to work in the vineyard.
You can get acquainted with the terms and concepts about grapes necessary for a winegrower in this article -
Caring for grapes - sharing our experience
Help the grapes bear fruit
Bush density - Right way to loss of harvest. Therefore, the first thing you need to stimulate the harvest is good pruning. Of course, in this case we must remember the well-known saying that the eyes are afraid, but the hands do. I’ll tell you about a few basic things that a vineyard needs.
A good fruit-bearing grapevine needs free space. In a dense bush there are many shoots, few flower buds, the vines do not ripen, and diseases develop very quickly. There is no need to feel sorry for a neglected (at the same time once formed) grape bush. A normal, strong vine is the thickness of a pencil or more; the remaining unripe ones must be cut out. Immediately remove all dry, dead (gray-brown wood when cut), small, curved shoots. If a perennial vine has lost its yield, you need to remove it, leaving a substitute - a strong shoot at the base of the bush.
Grapes that had to be severely pruned (when there are practically no normal vines left, and instead of them there are substitutes) should be given the opportunity to recover next year. To do this, cut off half of the tassels it produces. - let him spend his energy on growth for now. Pruning should be done annually. This crop is not for gardeners who grow everything on their own. The main mass is pruned in the fall, after leaf fall. In spring, pruning is more likely to be corrective (this does not apply to young plantings).
Measure in nutrition
You need to remember one basic rule: nitrogen and organic fertilizers - only at the beginning of the growing season. An excess of nitrogen leads to the fact that the vine will not ripen. Grapes react well to nitrogen - if there is too much, the bush can even become fattened - it will produce a lot of excellent and unnecessary green mass and thick (more than 1 cm) shoots. Grapes really like a good potassium dressing - up to a bucket of ash per bush a year. This amount of ash can be replaced with 0.5 kg of potash fertilizer.
Prevention
Unfortunately, diseases stick very well to grapes. Therefore, no matter how much you resist using chemicals, their use will be necessary in case of damage to the vineyard by pests and diseases. And the best measure is prevention, that is, timely treatment with drugs. I spray three times a season. The first time the bush can be treated with this mixture: per bucket of water - 40 g of copper oxychloride and 100 g of colloidal sulfur. Spray the second time with the same solution after flowering, the third time - when the grapes are the size of peas. You can add complex fertilizer to the second or third spraying (especially if the bushes are weak). The dose is two times less than recommended.
Equally bad is the complete absence of pruning and its incorrect implementation. The vineyard needs to be pruned regularly.
August troubles in the vineyard
August is always associated with the grape harvest.
This is the final and most important point in gardening practice, for which it is worth working all year and following all the “laws” of agricultural technology. And in order for the grapevine to ripen well, so that good harvest next year, and the grape bushes have overwintered well, it is necessary to take care in August.
As I write these lines, I can’t help but think about this year’s drought. During the entire first half of the summer (as of July 20), we did not have a single rain. On some bushes the crowns of the grape shoots have already straightened, that is, their growth has already stopped - and this is only the middle of summer. The soil has dried out so much that without watering the grapes (very drought-resistant plant!) if it doesn’t disappear this summer, then it definitely won’t prepare for winter: it will weaken and may die from dehydration even in relatively mild winter.
And the first thing to do is to water the vineyard in August. Moreover, watering should not be reduced to “splattering” the soil surface (weak watering, moistening only the top, surface layer soil), but should be full and measured: pour 5-6 liters of water into the hole once, then repeat watering 2-3 more times after the water is absorbed by the soil. This method of watering will help saturate the soil with moisture. (Recommendations that it is no longer possible to water grapes in August, since the harvest may suffer, do not apply to this situation - here it is necessary to literally save the plant.) If there is heavy rainfall, then the need for watering will disappear. This applies to the entire garden: both the berry garden and fruit trees, and lawn.
But let's return to the vineyard.
The grape grows continuously throughout its life.
And since the vine grows until the autumn frosts, special care is needed for the grape bush, aimed at ensuring that the vine stops its growth in time, has time to ripen and successfully overwinter. Let us repeat once again: a bush with an immature vine, even in a mild winter, even if covered, can freeze. Therefore the main green operation August - minting, carried out at the beginning of the month, this optimal time. It involves removing the tops of green shoots (crowns) when they stop growing.
This agrotechnical measure promotes the ripening of the crop, the ripening of the vine and the accumulation of nutrients. Very early minting, during the period of active growth of shoots (June-July), leads to the formation large quantity stepchildren who are unwanted.
Late coinage (second half August - September) does not increase the sugar content in berries or the ripening of shoots. The tip of the shoot with 4-5 upper internodes or 2-3 mm from the edge of the crown is removed by chasing, if it has not yet straightened out by this time. Weak bushes do not need it. On the shoots of replacement knots and on young non-fruitful bushes, chasing is not carried out.
With intensive feeding of grape bushes and excessive watering in the first half of summer in August, bifurcation or tripling (fasciation) of the intensively growing vine is observed. The plant simply has nowhere to go" construction material“and it looks for a way out of this situation, simultaneously forming several apical ocelli and provoking them to germinate. That is, fasciation itself is a reaction grape plant for excessive application of nitrogen fertilizers (mineral - urea, ammonia water or nitrate; or organic fertilizers - manure, humus, compost, etc.).
All this ultimately has a negative impact on general development bush: it thickens, is poorly ventilated and illuminated, the vine does not ripen well, the ripening of the crop is delayed, sugar does not accumulate well in the berries. Some vigorous varieties are prone to fasciation of shoots: “Augustine”, “Talisman”, “Sashenka”, “Autumn Black”, Elegant”, “Julian” and many others.
At the same time, this phenomenon is almost not observed in low- and medium-growing varieties: "Violet early", "Delight white", "Bulgaria" and so on. During fasciation, defective eyes are formed, from which fragments of the vine subsequently develop, and the vine freezes, even when covered, and even in a mild winter. To avoid this and to ensure balanced nutrition grapes, it is necessary in August 2-3 times, with an interval of 10-15 days, to apply increased doses of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, primarily through foliar feeding. To do this, fill the sprayer with an aqueous solution of potassium monophosphate (8-15 g per 10 l of water) or Plantafol (25 g per 10 l of water) and spray it on the leaves. The addition of microelements (chelated forms of iron, copper, zinc, manganese) also improves the situation. Competitors during fasciation should be removed so that the remaining shoot tip develops normally.
And finally, the main event of this month is the harvest. In August we collect and consume early and early middle grape varieties. This group of varieties is generally not designed for long-term storage.
We try to remove ripened bunches from the bushes overnight or in two or three passes, since there are varieties whose harvests do not ripen at the same time. At this time some also ripen technical grades: "Dove", "Early Violet", "Zaladende", "Platovsky" etc. They are collected for processing to produce juices and wine. If in grape juice 20% sugar or more, it is suitable for technical use. In our area, it is not worth the risk of waiting for the grapes to accumulate large quantity Sahara. The rains will come, and the harvest of sunny grapes may be lost. After all, we have a risky viticulture zone. Petr Mazur, head of the horticulture research laboratory of the National Research Center
: Pleven is a grape variety that...
With the arrival of spring, many novice gardeners are wondering how to care for the grapevine in order to achieve a harvest? How to avoid grape diseases that often plague young vines?
Due to a lack of experience, many winegrowers make mistakes that cause disease and sometimes lead to the death of the vine. Considering practical experience gardeners and winegrowers can avoid many problems associated with grapes.
Young grapes, care rules.
Gardeners should remember that quality care grapes depend on their survival rate, resistance to disease and harvest in the future. The main task is to form the correct root system.
The main number of grape roots in the first year of life is located in the zone landing pit Therefore, you should be extremely careful when fertilizing and when loosening the plant.
In the summer it is necessary to carry out the catarification of grapes, usually it is carried out 2 times, in June and August, in the morning or in the evening; in no case should it be carried out in the scorching sun.
To carry out the procedure, you should carefully rake the ground about 0.2 meters and remove the young roots. Then the sections are dried and treated with a solution of copper sulfate; after the procedures, the hole is covered with earth.
Catarovka is carried out to strengthen the root system of grapes. Pruning the top roots allows for the development of the plant's deep roots.
If pruning is ignored, deep roots practically do not develop, and a weak root system. This leads to the death of the plant, since it cannot withstand frost and overflow.
It should be remembered that after each rainfall, the soil must be loosened to allow oxygen to reach the root system. It is also necessary to clear the plant of weeds, preferably several times a season.
Watering grapes should be taken with full responsibility; in summer, plants should be watered once a week; one hole will require from 6 to 16 liters of water.
Young grape vines are tied to a support, so the shoots of the plant do not come into contact with the ground, this minimizes development various diseases. When the shoots reach a height of 1 meter, pinching should be done.
How to care for grapes?
High-quality grape care includes various operations that are aimed at the proper formation of shoots, productivity and strengthening the root system.
Grape garter, necessary procedure to form a vine. Plants are tied to supports and trellises. This is the main procedure in caring for the vine; it must be carried out in the summer.
Splintering is the removal of weak shoots, popularly called tops. It is carried out to normalize the load of the bush. It should be remembered that shoots that have reached a length of 15-20 cm should not be removed, as this can harm the plant.
Pinching is carried out 3-4 days before flowering, 5-6 leaves are left on the future vine, and the rest is removed. This procedure improves the pollination process.
Normalization of inflorescences is carried out to normalize the load on the grapevine. Experienced gardeners inspect the vine and remove unnecessary inflorescences. Usually one or two clusters are left on large-fruited grape varieties.
Embossing grapes involves removing all the tips of the shoots; 10-14 leaves should be left above the main cluster, and the rest should be removed with pruning shears. This procedure is carried out for better ripening of grape bunches; it is best done in mid-August.
Thinning the leaves is aimed at accelerating the ripening of bunches and to ventilate the vineyard. Two weeks before harvest, all old and dried leaves are removed from the clusters and under them.
How to care for flowering grapes?
During the flowering period, you should care for the plant more carefully.
It should be remembered that high humidity negatively affects pollination, so moderate watering is necessary.
Also during flowering, grapes are fertilized to increase yield.
Feeding grapes correctly
Experienced winegrowers add nutrients, popularly top dressing, three times.
The first fertilizing is done in early spring. Nitrogen fertilizers are most often used; they should be diluted in water for better absorption by the plant.
The second feeding is carried out 10 days before flowering. During this period, nitrogen and potassium fertilizers are used. You can also use organic fertilizers such as chicken manure.
The third fertilizing is introduced when the berries ripen; phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are most often used, and ash is also used.
Photo examples of grape care
Annual summer care control over grapes is of invaluable importance: a vineyard left “to the mercy of fate” quickly turns into wild thickets, and the quantity and quality of fruits deteriorates sharply. What procedures need to be carried out in the vineyard during the season?
With the appearance of leaves on young shoots, form a hole around each plant so that the trunk begins to harden
In order for the grapes to begin bearing fruit faster and delight you with good harvests in the future, you need to provide the shoots with careful care from the very first year of cultivation. There is no need to carry out standard “green operations”, but special attention should be paid to loosening, weeding and watering.
First of all, you have to loosen the soil compacted during planting around the planted grape shoots and between the rows. As leaves appear on young shoots, form a hole around each plant so that the trunk begins to harden. Of the grown three or four branches in June, leave one, the most powerful one, so that the plant directs all its forces to its growth, then by autumn you will get a well-developed long vine.
Video about caring for grapes in summer
It is not recommended to grow anything unnecessary in the vineyard: tomatoes, beans, onions, etc. garden plants will hinder the growth of grapes.
To develop the root system in deep layers of soil, it is necessary to remove surface roots on the underground part of the trunk. If you do not pay attention to this procedure in the first years, the upper roots will die when the soil freezes, and in the summer the plants will suffer from a lack of moisture. The roots are removed at the end of June and August, in the morning: a hole 20 cm deep is made around the grape shoot and cut with pruning shears or sharp knife the upper roots are close to the trunk. After the first pruning, the hole is buried until the shoot grows green, and after the second pruning, a hole about 10 cm deep is left.
Watered young grape once a week at the rate of 10 liters per bush. At the same time, you can add fertilizers to the water (superphosphate, ammonium nitrate, ammonium sulfate). Do not forget to regularly destroy weeds around young plantings and loosen the soil, destroying dense upper layer, formed after rains and irrigation.
Water young grapes once a week at the rate of 10 liters per bush
As experienced winegrowers rightly point out, if the grapes are not pruned, you may not get good bunches. Grape pruning allows you to create the most favorable conditions for plant development and fruit ripening, providing shoots with sunlight and fresh air.
Pruning and breaking of grape shoots, thinning foliage, pinching and other procedures necessary for correct formation and increasing grape yields, winegrowers call “green operations.” Let's take a closer look at the main “green operations” that should be carried out during the season.
“Dry garter” is the first procedure with which summer cares for the vineyard begin. Last year's vines, giving them a direction to grow. In the southern regions, gartering can be done at the end of April, until fresh shoots have grown, but in most Russian regions this should be done in the first ten days of June, when the likelihood of frost subsides.
Pruning grapes allows you to create the most favorable conditions for plant development and fruit ripening
Debris of shoots - during the period of budding, barren branches at the base of the bushes are removed, as well as excess shoots growing from one eye. After tying grape vines All weak and stunted branches are broken off. Then comes the “green garter” - it is carried out several times during the season, when the shoots outgrow another 20 centimeters of wire on the trellis.
Pinching - at the end of June, fruit shoots are shortened on fruiting vines so that more nutrients are supplied to the clusters. To do this, the tops of the sprouts are cut off after the tendrils, leaving five leaves after the second bunch. They also pinch the top of the vine when it reaches a length of 2.5 m, otherwise the vine can stretch up to 6 m, as a result of which the bunches will ripen more slowly and less sugar will accumulate in the berries. Young shoots growing from a replacement knot do not need to be pinched.
Normalization of inflorescences - in grape varieties with small sleeves, inflorescences of the 1st order are removed; in all other varieties, inflorescences of the 3rd and 4th order should be removed. This makes the berries grow larger and sweeter, crack less often and rot less.
Normalization of inflorescences - in grape varieties with small sleeves, inflorescences of the 1st order are removed; in all other varieties, inflorescences of the 3rd and 4th order should be removed
Peeling - greens that are not needed when the grapes are ripening should be reduced. Therefore, from June to August, all the stepsons emerging in the axils of the leaves are plucked out and at the same time all the tendrils are cut out so that the plant directs its energy to the future harvest.
Embossing shoots - in the first half of August, the tops of the shoots are cut off to the first normal leaf (approximately after the 15th leaf). Thanks to embossing, the growth of branches will slow down and the clusters will ripen better.
Thinning leaves - three weeks before harvest, it is recommended to break off the old leaves that grow in the lower part of the bush, as well as those that shade the bunches of berries. This procedure will ensure better ventilation of the grape bushes, and the bunches will receive more sunlight.
After chasing the shoots, stepsons begin to actively appear on the grape bushes
Harvest rationing - since the climate in most of the Russian regions does not allow grapes to fully ripen, domestic winegrowers deliberately sacrifice part of the harvest. On each shoot, leave one or two bunches (preferably the lower, most powerful ones) and cut out small underdeveloped grapes from them. This procedure is carried out in August, while the berries are still very small.
Keep in mind that after chasing the shoots, stepsons begin to actively appear on the grape bushes. Have time to pluck them in time. All of the listed “green operations” are necessary only for adult grape bushes. Grapes can grow freely for up to three years; summer care for them consists of regular watering with fertilizing and loosening the soil to destroy weeds.
Features of caring for grapes in summer
Grapes need to be fed with fertilizers - this is clear to novice gardeners. But when purchasing complex mineral fertilizers, you should pay attention to the fact that all components in them are water-soluble, otherwise the grape roots will not be able to absorb the fertilizer. It is especially important to apply fertilizers during budding and when the grapes ripen. So, spraying grapes in August with a solution of potassium monophosphate or infusion wood ash will ensure better ripening of the vine and accumulation of sugars in the berries.
Video about summer grape care
During the summer, take time every day to inspect the grape bushes for pests and dangerous ones. Healthy grape leaves have a smooth underside, greenish in color, without plaque. If you notice yellow spots, characteristic of mildew, or an ash coating (a sign of oidium), immediately treat the entire vineyard with special preparations. Before flowering, you can spray the grapes with various means:
- Topaz against oidium;
- Ridomil Gold for mildew;
- For fruiting bushes it is better to use a solution of potassium permanganate or baking soda;
- against spider mite Fufanon helps a lot.
Do not remove all barren shoots: they form the necessary supply of nutrients that will be needed for the development of the bush. On average, it is enough to leave one barren branch for 2-3 fruit-bearing branches.
Grapes require throughout the season ongoing care. Summer activities start in June. Let's take a closer look at the procedures that are recommended to be carried out with grapes.
What do you do with grapes in June?
It is not too late to plant young grape seedlings, as well as insufficiently strong cuttings. On a well-developed vine, the shoots actively increase mass, so on long shoots it is necessary to pinch out the buds, which makes the pollination process better and more productive.
Before flowering, grapes are fed with solutions, the composition of which enhances flowering and the budding process. Complex mineral fertilizers are used for feeding. Since the harvest of berries depends on the quality of flowering, fungicides are applied during the formation of flowers in June.
Growing shoots need to be tied to a trellis, removing the stepsons. When flowering is completed, foliar feeding of the grapes is carried out. At the end of June, when the forming clusters are visible, they need to be rationed so that the harvest is good and of high quality. There is no need to feel sorry and leave more grapes than the vine can provide. nutrients. When the berries on the bunch reach the size of a cherry pit, you need to treat them with solutions of Ridomil Gold or Topaz fungicides.
Growing grapes in June
In the middle of the month, weak shoots begin to grow vigorously. They appear in the axils of the leaves and are called stepsons. Under normal load, the stepsons do not grow much. If the bush is mechanically injured, the stepsons will serve as a backup way to increase the green canopy of the bush, which will increase the yield next year.
You cannot completely break out all the stepsons, since the yield of berries of the current and next years depends on this. Pinching stepsons above 3-4 leaves helps to increase the overall leaf canopy of the bush. This is extremely important, since at the end of summer the stepson “reserve” provides the bush with photosynthesis, since the main shoots become obsolete and their function decreases.
In June, stepsons are formed on a green shoot in the area of 4-8 eyes. You need to break out the stepsons up to 4 eyes, and pinch the rest. On pinched stepsons, stepchildren of the second and third orders develop - they should be broken out. Such shoots have small leaves and feed from the main, highly developed canopy. If the stepsons are not pinched, they can outgrow the length of the main shoots, resulting in thickening and the clusters being shaded. Excessive density inside the vineyard leads to the occurrence of fungal diseases - oidum, mildew, anthracnose. Grape leaves are damaged by leaf rollers. As a result of this condition of the bush, the yield of berries is lost, they become weakly colored and have a high acidity content.
Some winegrowers carry out such a procedure in June as thinning the berries in a bunch. When the excess ovary falls off naturally, a difference in the formation of the berries will be visible - some are stunted in growth, some are greatly enlarged.
If June is rainy and cold, the flowering phase may be delayed. To improve the situation, install a canopy made of any durable material, for example, polycarbonate. If this is not possible, you can use a weak solution of boric acid, for the preparation of which half a teaspoon of the substance is dissolved in a bucket of water.
If you need to get more early harvest grapes, in June the shoot ringing procedure is carried out. Under the lower cluster of the fruiting shoot, the ring of bark and cambium are removed down to the wood (width no more than 5 mm). This helps the berries ripen at least 10 days earlier than usual.
In June, you need to monitor the condition of the leaves and vines, taking treatment measures for the development of diseases and the appearance of pests.