Drawings of metal stoves for the home. Heating stoves. Video: an example of self-made sauna stove made of metal

12.03.2020

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Building a summer house on your own country plot is not a problem today. They paid money, and specialists will build it from brick, stone, blocks, logs or other building materials. If there are restrictions on money, then you can build the building with your own hands. Same small problem. But no matter how beautiful and functional a dacha is, it is worthless without a good stove. Because the cold weather will come, and then it will turn out that no one needs all this beauty and functionality. Therefore, you need to take care of heating in advance, choosing from two options: metal stoves for your dacha or brick ones.

Metal stove

Which stove to choose in 2020

It should be noted that there is no point in comparing both options purely constructively; they work on the same principle. But all other characteristics are very different from each other. Let's make a comparison.

Attention! Large metal stoves for summer cottages do not justify themselves. They burn too much fuel, which increases the cost of their operation. In this regard, brick ones are much better and more economical.

Homemade potbelly stove

Factory or Samtrest

So, if the issue of choosing between brick and metal has been resolved, you can move on to choosing metal stoves in terms of which is better: factory-made or home-made. Probably, this approach to choosing a stove for a summer house is wrong. It is clear that factory samples will be higher in quality, although homemade ones are several times lower in price.

But if the stove is made by a highly qualified specialist with his own hands, then its high quality can be guaranteed. As for appearance, beautiful modern models come out of the factory. A homemade design cannot be called such, but the problem can be solved quite quickly and simply. It is necessary to install protective decorative screens near the stove, which will perform two functions at once: a protective element and a design approach to design.

Factory original model

This category includes selection criteria based on the raw metal used. That is, the stove can be made of cast iron or steel. You cannot make cast iron units with your own hands. This requires casting, which cannot be organized at home. Such stoves look very beautiful; some models are distinguished by the exquisite taste of the manufacturer. Although there are also very modest samples on sale. As for steel structures, there is a huge selection of factory products, and assembling such a stove with your own hands is not a problem.

For advertising purposes:
You can purchase rolled metal wholesale and retail from one of the largest and most reliable suppliers in Russia and the CIS countries - Steel Industry Company. Link to the company website - rostov.spk.ru/catalog/metalloprokat/listovoy-prokat/

Cast iron stove

Economical options

Savings have not yet been canceled, so a competent approach to heating rooms using iron stoves for dachas is to reduce the consumption of fuel used. Unfortunately, this cannot be said about all metal stoves. But there are certain designs that can boast such savings.

These are metal stoves for summer cottages (wood-burning) that use the pyrolysis process. In such a design, the firebox is divided into two parts. In one, the wood does not burn, but smolders with a minimal amount of oxygen supplied. In the second, carbon monoxide is burned, which is pre-enriched with oxygen. Fresh air is supplied to each of the fireboxes separately through its own channels. In this case, the maximum effect is achieved, which brings the efficiency of the stove to 90%.

Metal stove for dacha pyrolysis type

Currently, pyrolysis stoves for summer cottages are produced by almost all manufacturers. But you can make such a unit with your own hands. Homemade structures are more often called long-burning stoves, and instead of firewood, you can use waste lumber in them: sawdust, shavings, pieces of wood. Today, pellets have appeared on the market, which are made from plant biomass. These are pressed granules that smolder for a very long time. For example, two bookmarks are usually enough for a whole day. Very economical, considering that pellets are cheaper than firewood.

It should be noted that pyrolysis stoves, compared to conventional ones, are many times more expensive, and this is their big disadvantage. The same will apply to homemade pyrolysis-type units. The design is too complex, which requires the use of a large amount of different types of metal. Yes, and it will take a long time to work on it.

Homemade long-burning stove

Type of fuel

There's not much to choose from here.

Gas. If a gas pipe is installed in a holiday village, then all doubts disappear by themselves. A metal stove must be connected to it. Today it is the cheapest fuel. There is ease of use and huge savings. You can use liquefied gas, which is sold in cylinders, to operate iron stoves for summer cottages. A good option that requires an initial investment - you will have to buy several gas cylinders to keep a certain amount of fuel in reserve. There is one disadvantage of bottled gas - it must be refilled at gas stations. But there is no point in bringing 2-3 cylinders there, so you will have to rent a larger car.
Electricity. The most accessible type of fuel, but also the most expensive. Electric metal stoves are still becoming increasingly popular among summer cottage owners. They are not fussy in their work, they do not need to be constantly maintained, supplied with fuel, and so on. They are the easiest to install; there is no need to install a chimney. That is, they have the least problems. The main requirement for them is the installation of a separate circuit breaker and RCD into the supply network. Wiring from the switchboard is carried out with a separate cable, with a cross-section suitable for the power of the device.
Wood stoves. A traditional specimen with a centuries-old history, however, it is losing its former popularity due to the complexity of maintenance. When choosing wood-burning structures, you will need to understand that they need to install a good chimney. It is good traction that gives good results, both in terms of thermal processes and in terms of fuel economy. The safety of using the stove also depends on the chimney.

Requirements for metal furnaces

As mentioned above, the metal itself is a source of great trouble when it is very hot. Therefore, metal furnaces have special requirements regarding the safety of their operation.

Installation is carried out with a gap between the stove and the supporting structures of the building. The size of the gap is determined by the manufacturer himself, indicating it in the product passport.
The walls and floor adjacent to the unit are lined with non-combustible material. For example, brick, ceramic tiles and so on.
If the stove is large in size and, accordingly, has a decent weight (more than 100 kg), then a solid foundation is installed under it; it is better to pour a separate foundation. If the device is installed on a plank floor, it is recommended to place additional supports under the joists.
The diameter of the chimney must correspond to the diameter of the outlet pipe.
The pipe itself must be routed through supporting structures, in which a hole is made with insulation made of heat-resistant materials.

Scheme of correct installation of a metal stove

Conclusion

In conclusion, I would like to give one piece of advice on metal stoves for summer cottages. It is better to perform the first firing of the unit outdoors. This mainly applies to factory samples. They are usually painted with a special paint that will emit an unpleasant odor when heated. During the second fire it will not be felt as much.

Don't forget to rate the article.

A stove at the dacha is far from a luxury - in the struggle for the harvest, the summer resident is on his plot from early spring to late autumn. To drive dampness out of the house after winter and maintain dry heat, the gardener is forced to install a stove. The choice of heating devices is large; you can purchase a ready-made device or make it yourself.

What material is optimal?

In terms of thermal performance indicators, cast iron is the best material; it has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Nuances of a cast iron stove:

heaviness and inconvenience of transportation;
in the cold season, too intense melting can lead to the heating device cracking;
Suitable for occasional use in the country.

For permanent residence in a private house, it is better to pay attention to other options. Brick stoves have good heat capacity and retain heat for a long time, even after burning out.

Features of brick kiln:

a brick oven requires the manufacture of a foundation; you can contact a specialized company or cast it yourself;
It is better to entrust the masonry to an experienced stove-maker, and not to do it yourself;
the stove must be heated regularly, and after a long break it should be heated with a large amount of fuel;
Brick stoves are suitable for homes and cottages if people live in the house regularly.

Butakova stove, cold start in winter

If you close your eyes to the complete lack of aesthetics, the welded version is ideally suited for the home and country house. It is easy to make and does not require special skills; you can make the oven yourself. It is a box on legs, divided into two parts - the combustion chamber itself and the so-called ash pan. It is easy to build a heat exchanger, hob, or, for example, oven into it.

The downside is that these devices do not last long, especially with regular use.

Popular models, their cost and description

"Matrix"

The model is distinguished by the presence of a convector casing, which ensures fast and uniform heating of the heated room. The stove can operate at home in long-burning mode for up to 8 hours on one load of firewood.

It is also equipped with a hob and heat-resistant glass installed in the door, which allows you to control the combustion process.

The price for such a stove varies from 12 to 17 thousand rubles.

Stove for home and garden “Top model”
A special feature of this model is a convection heater.

Cold air entering the lower part of the heater is heated from the hot walls of the combustion chamber and leaves the openings through convection pipes.

The stove is equipped with a three-turn firebox. It can heat food and heat a room up to 140 square meters.

It can be purchased for 20 thousand rubles.

Breneran stove
These models are distinguished by two combustion chambers. In the lower one, fuel combustion occurs, in the upper one, gases are burned. The wood-burning stove is equipped with two regulators: a power regulator located on the door and a gasifier regulator located on the chimney in the rear.

Numerous pipes that carry out forced convection pass through the “body” of the furnace. This allows you to quickly and evenly heat the rooms.

The principle of operation is simple - cold air is taken from the bottom of the oven, passing through convection pipes, manages to warm up to 65 degrees and exits from the top of the pipes. Works on all types of solid fuel.

The manufacturer claims that in long-burning mode it can work for up to 12 hours. Application: private houses, country houses, greenhouses, small industrial premises. The price of this stove is about 25 thousand rubles.

Budget options for stoves

Its small size allows it to be installed in a country house or garden house.

It has a cylindrical shape.
Equipped with a convector casing.
It has a hob, so you can cook food in a cauldron at home.
The hob is made of cast iron.
The cost will be 6-8 thousand rubles.

Potbelly stove "Vesuvius mini"
It is lightweight (up to 20 kilograms).

Capable of heating rooms up to 100 square meters.
The firebox is very spacious and provides long-lasting combustion.
You can cook it yourself or buy it.
Costs about 6 thousand rubles.

Another representative of the budget class is the Vesuvius Comfort wood stove. It differs from the previous model in the heat-resistant glass installed in the door, which allows you not only to heat rooms up to 120 square meters, but also to admire the burning flame. This model will cost 7 thousand rubles.

A simple portable oven. Can help in many cases.

It can be used to heat a small country house, garage, greenhouse, tent or mobile sauna.

During transportation, the chimney pipes and stove legs are removed into the firebox. –

Equipped with a carrying bag and will be an ideal solution for country houses that are not equipped with electricity.

Its cost is 7 thousand rubles.

A small stove, fueled by wood, equipped with a hob.

It has a strict cubic shape and a reliable door locking mechanism. A small hole made of heat-resistant glass in the door allows you to observe the burning of firewood.

Its special feature is the hinged firebox door, which opens 140 degrees. This makes loading fuel safer.

The compact dimensions of the stove allow it to be installed even in a small country house.

Price – about 8 thousand rubles.

Wood heating stove "Taiga"

It is easy to use in a production room or garage.

It is equipped with an outer casing of the convector type, its feature is a no-grid firebox, this increases its efficiency.

Suitable for cooking, works on wood, peat and other combustible waste.

Capable of heating a room of up to 100 square meters in houses, greenhouses, garages or cottages.

The buyer will be able to purchase it for 9 thousand rubles.

Stove for the cottage - we cook it ourselves

There are actually a lot of home-made heating devices. Let's look at the most economical and effective ones.

Potbelly stove

It won’t be difficult to weld a stove for your dacha with your own hands. To do this, you will need a sheet of iron at least 5 mm thick for the walls of the furnace. The thickness is selected taking into account the fact that the surface will heat up - after all, there is a combustion chamber inside.

You will also need a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm, it will become a pipe for the chimney, and a grate for firewood in the firebox. To make a pipe, you can take a steel pipe 25 cm long.

Manufacturing technology

We transfer the dimensions onto sheets of iron and cut them out with a grinder. There are 6 parts in total, in pairs. Bottom and top surfaces, side walls and ends.

In the lid we cut out a circle for the pipe to a size of 100 mm, and carefully insert the pipe into the hole and weld it. You need to cook in one seam so that carbon monoxide does not leak through micro-cracks.

Then we put the structure together. The grille should be welded before the lid is finally attached.

You need to weld corners - legs - to the bottom of the structure. In one of the end partitions we cut out a door for the firebox and a hole for the blower.

Similarly, you can weld a heating device for your home or cottage with your own hands from an old barrel or can; it can serve the summer resident for more than one season.

Video: Beautiful potbelly stove with your own hands

A homemade metal stove is perfect for heating a greenhouse, garage, work space, and even a living room. To assemble the unit in question, you can use sheets of metal, barrels, pipes and even fire extinguishers of a suitable size. The procedure for making the stove remains the same. Differences are present only in the initial stages of corps preparation.

Advantages of a homemade metal stove

A homemade metal stove has a number of advantages over brick heating units. Among the main advantages of the structures under consideration, it is necessary to highlight the simplicity of their design and the availability of raw materials.

Making a simple metal stove will not take much time - there are usually no difficulties in finding (purchasing) metal sheets or iron containers of a suitable size.

The installation of a metal furnace will require many times less financial investment compared to the construction of a brick heating unit. At the same time, a metal stove does not take up much space and heats up very quickly during operation.

Homemade metal stove

Metal stoves weigh much less than their brick counterparts, which eliminates the need for a strong foundation. To further increase heating efficiency, a screen made of heat-resistant brick can be laid around a metal heating unit.

Main design features

A standard metal furnace consists of the following main elements:

Equip on top of the stove firebox. Install the tank at the minimum possible distance from the firebox. Typically, one part of the tank is installed on supports, the other on the furnace firebox. Make racks from materials that are suitable and convenient for you. The main thing is that they are strong and securely fastened as much as possible.

An option is often used in which a smoke exhaust pipe is passed through a water tank, heating the liquid. However, in this case, all welding work must be performed to the highest possible quality. Any gaps will cause the tank to leak. As a result, water will enter the firebox and extinguish the fire.

If you wish, you can make changes to the design of the stove yourself, placing additional elements at your discretion.

Weld strong metal legs to the bottom of the oven. Installation of such units, as a rule, is carried out on special flood sheets.

Place a fireclay brick screen around the stove. It is also recommended to line the section of the smoke exhaust pipe before exiting the street with bricks.

Where the pipe crosses the materials of the house, lay fire-resistant material, for example, based on asbestos. This will provide adequate protection for materials from fire.

The section of the chimney passing through the attic should not have valves, views or other similar elements.

The length of the horizontal sections of the smoke exhaust pipe should not exceed 100 cm.

Metal stoves are installed in accordance with the provisions and rules of current regulatory documents.

If the walls of the building are made of wood, the distance between them and the stove should be at least 50-100 cm. If you plaster or protect it with a thick metal sheet, the specified distance can be reduced to 20-30 cm.

The firebox and chimney of the stove should be at a minimum distance.

Lightweight stoves can be installed without a foundation, on a dense metal sheet. Relatively heavy units require an individual base made of concrete or brick. Recommended height – up to 200 mm.

Now you have the information necessary to make your own metal stove. Follow the provisions of the presented manual, and the finished heating unit will effectively cope with the tasks assigned to it for many years.

Furnace installation option

Good luck!

Video - Do-it-yourself metal oven

Small Cast iron and steel stoves are installed in temporary buildings, in dachas, and in small rural houses. Large metal heating devices of modern design are placed in spacious residential buildings and cottages.

Homemade iron stoves are distinguished by simplicity, but some craftsmen are able to turn home-made devices into real works of art.

How to choose a home metal stove?

Enterprises are created tens iron stoves, which differ in size, firebox volume, design, appearance and operating modes. When choosing a metal heating device, take into account a number of factors:

region accommodation;
house area, number of heated rooms;
frequency of use stoves;
design interior and preferences owner of the house.

In regions where subzero temperatures last up to 5-6 months per year, the requirements for heating appliances are increasing, home owners give preference to brick structures. But if in winter the temperature rarely falls below 10 degrees, home heating metal The device is quite suitable for heating homes.

If the owners permanently reside in the house, the metal stove must support comfortable temperature during several hours after burning one portion of fuel.

Housing area and number of heated rooms also influences the choice of device. If the house consists of spacious rooms, choose a large long-burning stove with good heat transfer. For small houses where there is only a kitchen and a couple of rooms, a medium-power unit is sufficient. If the owners appear in the home only from time to time, you can install a small stove that quickly releases heat.

The choice of device is influenced by tastes of the owners of the house. There are iron stoves on sale, decorated in high-tech, baroque, and Provence styles.

Photo 1. A very unusual metal stove, designed in the form of a bucket from a Cat tractor.

Specific examples of choice

Choosing a metal stove begins with determining place of its installation. The heating unit is placed against a wall protected by heat-resistant material. Some owners place the device right in the middle of a large kitchen or room.

The wall next to which the stove is located heats up, so it protected with heat-resistant material. The screen is made of brick, ceramic tiles, bars and natural stone tiles. The thickness of the screen depends on the degree of heating of the wall.

For a wooden house

For a wooden house, wood-burning stoves are more often chosen. To warm up a wooden structure, you do not need such intense heat as for a brick and concrete cottage. Consider the choice heating and cooking stove for a small log house area up to 50 square meters.

There are hundreds of models of metal stoves on sale from dozens of Russian and foreign factories. Well proven heating and cooking appliances foreign manufacturers:

Konig Feuer;
Trend;
Olimp;
Magnum;
Thorma;
Alma Mons;
Efel;
Ferlux.

Furnaces are installed made of steel and cast iron, have different designs and structures.

The combustion chambers are made of cast iron; all models have firebox walls fireclay, vermiculite or other fire-resistant lining. Vermiculite lining of the firebox allows it to heat up up to 1200 degrees, fireclay - up to 1300 degrees. Food is cooked on the cooking surface and in the oven.

There are dozens of reliable and high-quality stoves on sale from Russian manufacturers such as “Termofor”, “Ligov”, “Teplodar”, “Ermak”. The devices have a steel body and duct fireboxes, which allows you to regulate the temperature and consumption of firewood. In many stoves, in addition to the cooking floor, an oven is installed.

Across all devices There is an ash pit covered with a grate, and throttles for adjusting the air supply. The doors are solid or with a window made of fire-resistant glass.

For a country house

For country houses and dachas they often choose compact stoves. These structures allow you to quickly warm up small rooms and maintain an acceptable temperature for 2-3 hours. If there are no problems with electricity in the village, it is enough to purchase a stove designed only for heating the room.

Photo 2. Stove model “Buleryan”. Hot air passes through curved tubes and the heat lasts longer.

There are compact heating and cooking devices on sale. If the unit is needed solely for heating, small model stoves are suitable “Buleryan”, “Cinderella”, “Vesuvius”, “Student”, “Engineer”.

Reference. Enterprises, as a rule, produce dozens of stoves with the same name, but with different digital code. Among them there are cooking and cooking-heating appliances.

Schemes of iron wood stoves

There are chamber, channel, pyrolysis stoves and long-burning stoves. They differ in heat transfer, gas circulation, combustion modes, type of fuel.

Chamber design

Consists of a steel or cast iron body, which contains one combustion chamber. To load firewood, the housing has a hatch with a door.

In the lower part In the furnace, a grate is installed, under it there is an ash pan (ash pit) and a door for removing ash. At the top of the casing (on top or side) a round or square hole is cut for the chimney.

Channel device

The stove consists of a steel or cast iron body, which contains a firebox, grate, ash pan and door. Inside the firebox there are horizontal partitions-channels (from 1 to 3), forming the afterburning chamber. Air enters it through the gaps in the burners or through the regulator (throttle). The chamber creates an obstacle to the direct discharge of gases into the pipe; air and gases circulate inside the chamber, are burned and give off heat.

Reference. Most iron heating and cooking devices are ducted.

Furnace gases are discharged into the chimney through a horizontal pipe. Depending on the throttle adjustment, the stove works in two modes: long and fiery combustion.

Long burning stoves

Such devices give off heat up to 6-10 o'clock. After the wood has ignited, the chamber is filled with fuel. two thirds and restrict air flow. Smoldering occurs in the upper layer of fuel; air is supplied through the regulator to completely decompose the wood. The regulator is located in the upper or middle part of the furnace body. Complete combustion occurs under the vault.

Photo 3. Three models of long-burning stoves from the Termofor manufacturer. The design is the same, only the color of the coating is different.

Making an iron home stove with your own hands

When making a home iron stove, it is of great importance selection of materials. It is better to take as a sample proven circuit heating device. Let's consider the process of manufacturing a small duct heating and cooking stove for a country house.

Selection of materials

Home craftsmen often use cast iron. Cast iron plates are well welded by arc welding; this metal is durable and reliable, heats up quickly and can withstand overheating.

Important! Can't stand cast iron sudden temperature change and cracks from splashes cold water.

If the stove does not overheat to red heat, it will be suitable for the body ordinary steel 8 mm thick. This metal will last a long time if it is not subjected to frequent heating to temperatures above 600 degrees.

Factory furnaces with a steel body up to 1.5-3 mm made from heat-resistant steel, which is cooked using complex technology, unavailable at home.

When arc welding, heat-resistant steel becomes brittle. The problem will be solved by connecting the parts with rivets.

To make door fasteners, latch and handle, use steel rod with a diameter of 8-10 mm and sheet steel 3 mm thick.

Preparing tools and equipment

For work you will need welding machine, electrodes, plasma cutter, hammer, grinder with a set of discs, metal pencil, metal tape measure and ruler, piece of chalk. Work is underway on a table made of non-flammable material or on steel trestles.

Place to build a home oven

The choice of an iron stove is often limited by its weight, since the construction foundation- a long and expensive process. Without a foundation, only a small appliance can be installed on a wooden floor.

A sheet of flat slate, asbestos cardboard, ceramic tiles, a layer of brick, another fire resistant material.

Iron furnaces weighing 300-400 or more kilograms are set only on a foundation that is not connected to floor boards and joists.

The most reliable and durable option- a solid foundation made of concrete reinforced with steel lattice. A layer of ceramic bricks is placed on the concrete using a clay-sand mortar, or slabs of natural stone.

Important! It is allowed to install a metal stove only on level ground. The correctness of its laying is checked using a building level.

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions

Before starting work, prepare materials, equipment, a work table or sawhorses. The process of creating a furnace consists from the following stages:

A steel sheet is placed on the table (or floor) and applied to it marking steel pencil.
The parts are signed with chalk indicating the dimensions.
Details cut out plasma cutter.
A round is cut out in the details pipe hole and burner hole.
On the plate that will be welded to the front of the device, cut out portal for the combustion door and the blower door.
They drill into the plate separating the blower grate openings.

Metal stoves are very popular due to their low cost, and are widely used for heating country houses, bathhouses, utility rooms, and garages.

For example, on the website of the Teplodar company https://www.teplodar.ru/catalog/otopitelnie-pechi-kaminy/ there are 6 stoves for heating houses and cottages at a price of 6,760 rubles.

But you can do it yourself, it’s not that difficult. Of course, they have advantages compared to brick kilns, but they also have disadvantages.

Design Features

The simplest design of a metal stove is the so-called potbelly stove. Its design is quite simple: a metal box with legs, a door, and a pipe for removing combustion products. The main disadvantage of this stove is its high fuel consumption and low heat output. Another big disadvantage is the risk of fire.

The Russian name for this type of stove is based on the association with the caricature of the bourgeois, depicted as a man with a fat belly.
https://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/%D0%91%D1%83%D1%80%D0%B6%D1%83%D0%B9%D0%BA%D0%B0

Simple stove "potbelly stove"

Modern metal stoves are much safer than stoves. Their production is carried out from sheet steel, up to 4–5 mm thick. The design includes a special chamber for laying stones. A water tank with a capacity of up to 70 liters is provided as a heat storage tank. To heat the stove evenly, as well as to reduce its fire hazard, it is recommended to line the stove with heat-resistant bricks.

Some examples of modern stoves

Advantages

Metal is quite durable, but it is also a more malleable material that allows you to give it any shape. Able to withstand large temperature changes and severe loads during product operation.
It is worth noting the high efficiency of the metal stove, reaching 95%.
The thermal conductivity of the metal is high; accordingly, the furnace warms up quite quickly and the room heats up.
The strength of metal only increases with decreasing thickness, unlike ceramics.
The weight of a stove is an order of magnitude, and sometimes more, lower than a stone or brick one, which in turn allows one to avoid constructing a bulky monolithic foundation.
The low cost of heat produced (for metal stoves is 10–20 times lower than for brick stoves) is another plus in the treasury of advantages of this type of stove.
An important factor is the transportability of such a stove and ease of installation on site; you only need to install a chimney.
When no longer needed, it can be easily stored until the next heating season.

Flaws

Probably the most basic drawback is that the stove does not “breathe.” Whereas a brick stove absorbs moisture when cooling, thereby maintaining optimal humidity. A slight “breathing” of the stove will appear after brick lining, but mobility will disappear and the dimensions will increase.
Due to the low heat capacity of the metal, heat transfer after fuel combustion usually does not exceed 2–3 hours.
The big disadvantage of a metal stove is its lifespan. At operating temperatures, the metal actively reacts with moisture contained in the air, and as a result, accelerates corrosion. The service life of a metal furnace usually does not exceed twenty years. But this is fully compensated by the easy and inexpensive replacement of the stove and cheap fuel.

Kinds

At the moment, the market offers two types of metal stoves for the home, made from cast iron and steel. In terms of heat transfer, a cast iron stove is between brick and steel. The option of making a cast iron stove with your own hands disappears immediately, since you need to organize the process of casting cast iron, which is basically impossible on a suburban site. This requires special equipment. But you can build a stove made of sheet metal with your own hands, and in some cases, practically without spending money.

Stove made by cast iron

Sample of a factory-made steel furnace.

Oven made of sheet steel

Operating principle and design

Let's look at the general operating diagrams of furnaces. The main diagrams used in the figures:

Schemes of the operating principle of furnaces

Chamber system

In the furnace of the chamber system, combustion products are transferred into the gas chamber and there they burn out. The air flow is formed naturally. In chamber furnaces intended for domestic use, the firebox and afterburning chamber are located in one module - the crucible. For complete afterburning of gases, the chamber must have vaulted walls. A good example of a chamber system is the Russian stove. With some improvements, chamber ovens are quite effective.

Channel system

The duct system organizes the forced movement of gases from the fire source, through channels inside the stove, to the chimney. Combustion products, burning down and passing through the channels, cool down, giving off heat to the stove. The efficiency of such a furnace is about 60%, and in order for the gases to begin to burn out, it is necessary to first bring the furnace to an operating temperature of 400 degrees.

Bell system

In this system, the gases are under the dome of the bell and, when burned, go down the walls of the furnace, giving off the remaining heat. In this system, to start combustion of gases, it is necessary to warm up a small area of the hood dome. The efficiency in furnaces of this type can reach 70% or higher.

Schemes of metal furnaces and improvements

It is well known that metal heats up quickly, but also cools down quickly, its low heat capacity makes it an unimportant heat storage device, but if you take into account some properties of the material, classical schemes can be applied to metal furnaces and get the most out of them, since heat losses during heating minimized. Let's consider two schemes.

Schemes of metal furnaces

Chamber (A)

A typical representative is the “potbelly stove”. Its prototypes, indoor stoves, were used in the 19th century and were extremely voracious in terms of fuel. During the times of devastation and upheaval after the revolution, the “potbelly stove” was improved and christened by its current name.

The following improvements have been made:

To adjust the heat transfer power, a grate and a blower with a door were inserted into the furnace.
The chimney diameter is 9–10 millimeters per 0.23 kilocalories of thermal energy.
Low chimney height, up to 3 meters from the plane of the grate.
The beginning of the chimney up to 1–1.5 m is made vertically and covered with heat-insulating non-combustible material.
Next, the chimney continued with a horizontal section - a hog - no less than 2.5 m long; it was inserted into the window and another vertical segment of 1–1.5 meters was added to provide draft.

Duct (B)

The potbelly stove can be easily adapted to a duct scheme. Of course, only the appearance will be common with a brick stove. The channels will be of little use due to the high thermal conductivity of the metal; all that remains of the original system is a horizontal section separating the afterburning chamber and the firebox. Additional air for afterburning gases comes from holes on the hob or through a separate adjustable air duct. The chimney outlet is horizontal.

Results of improvements:

Thanks to the afterburning of gases in a localized place, the efficiency increased to 70–80%
The released thermal energy increased by 2–3 times.
The stove is undemanding in terms of draft force and chimney characteristics, it behaves like a simple potbelly stove: the draft has increased, the combustion and the rarefaction of the environment in the gas afterburner have increased. More secondary air enters and the gases burn completely.
Since the main power is produced in the afterburner, the furnace can operate in two modes: flame and long combustion.
Good heat transfer from the firebox through a fairly thin partition gives the afterburner the required temperature for ignition of unburned gases, so the stove enters operating mode almost instantly.
A separate air supply to the firebox and afterburner allows the stove to be configured for almost any solid fuel.
The heat transfer power of the furnace can be easily adjusted by the level of the blower air supply. In a classic potbelly stove, air power control is severely limited.
Thanks to the afterburner, the temperature under the hob is kept within 250–300 degrees, which is quite comfortable for cooking.
The high release of thermal energy from the stove allows you to heat the room evenly and quickly.
You can also install a heat exchange circuit for hot water supply at the entrance to the chimney.
When using high-quality firewood or coal, you will have to clean the chimney every 5 years.

Drawing and calculation of parameters

Everyone must decide for themselves what size the oven will be and what it will look like. People with engineering thinking and practical skills can make their own adjustments to the simplest design to improve and simplify the system.

Sketch and drawing of a potbelly stove:

Drawing of a potbelly stove

Materials and tools

Drawing and sketch of the future structure with dimensions.
Sheet metal, 4–5 mm thick.
Steel corners.
Steel tubes with a diameter of 15–20 mm or fittings with a diameter of 10–12 mm for the grate.
Metal pipe with a diameter of 180 mm.
Arc welding, electrodes 3.
An angle grinder (grinder) with a cutting wheel, a hammer, a tape measure, a pencil or a marker.

How to make a metal stove with your own hands: step-by-step steps

The furnace body will be assembled from rectangular steel sheets, butt welding them. Take a grinder and cut five rectangles according to the dimensions given in the drawing. We'll deal with the front part later, since there will be a door for the firebox and a vent.
Steel sheets cut to size
First you need to weld the sides to the bottom. First, we place one side panel to the bottom, using a square to control the right angle between the planes, and tack the joint at several points by welding. We make the second sidewall by analogy with the first. We check the right angles, the width of the bottom corresponds to the distance between the side walls at the top where the hob will be. After making sure that everything is correct, we weld the joints completely.
We weld the back wall to the side panels and the bottom. We mark the inside side walls for smoke circulation of the firebox and ash pan according to the drawing into three zones. Between the firebox and the ash pan there will be a grate on which the fuel is directly placed. To attach it to the inner surface of the sidewalls at a height of 10–15 cm from the bottom, corners are welded along the entire length of the panels. The corners should be welded with the shelf down.
Welding walls and corners to them
Let's move on to making the grate. The materials you will need are: cuttings of water pipes with a diameter of 15–20 mm and a length equal to or greater (the excess is cut off) to the internal width of the oven. Instead of pipes, fittings with a diameter of 10–12 mm are perfect. Reinforcement or two steel rods with a diameter of 15–20 mm or strips of thick (4–5 mm) steel along the length of the stove.
We place the fittings (tubes) on the rods in increments of 3–5 cm and weld them securely.
Manufacturing of grate
The grate must be removable, so it is not welded to the corners. The need to remove the grate arises when cleaning and repairing a potbelly stove or replacing the grate itself.
Removable elements - grille and reflector
Next, we weld two rods (pieces of reinforcement) at the top of the stove to install the reflector. It shares the firebox with the afterburner and the chimney and is removable. More details in the picture:
Location of the main elements in the furnace
The length of the reflector should be 10/11 the length of the potbelly stove to create a gap for the smoke to escape. It is advisable to make it from thicker metal, since it will heat up much more than other structural elements.
Let's start finishing work. We weld a hole in the lid of the required size and cross-section for the chimney; it can also be made on the assembled structure. We weld the lid to the stove body. Then you need to cut two jumpers. One is narrow and the other is wide (the exact dimensions depend on the specific dimensions of the oven). The narrow one is welded at the level of the grate to separate the firebox doors and ash pan, and the wide one is welded at the top to the sides and lid.
Welding of dividing bridges
It is best to make the door for the firebox almost the entire width of the stove, both for the convenience of loading firewood and for easy removal of the mirror and grate. For the ash pan you can make it narrower. We make curtains from tubes and rods.
Doors on a finished stove
Door handles can be made from either metal plates or pipe scraps. Alternatively, you can use the same universal fittings. We fasten the finished handles by welding. I think there shouldn’t be any difficulties with making door latches.
The oven is almost ready
After finishing the assembly, you should think about the stove supports. The legs can be made from pipe sections of the desired height. The supports can also be made adjustable in height; for these purposes, a nut is welded to the end of the tube (the inner diameter of the nut and tube must match each other) and a bolt is screwed in.
Let's start making the chimney. To make it, a pipe with a diameter of 15–20 cm is suitable. We take the end of the pipe outside the room through a hole in the wall or roof. The angles in the pipe should be 45 degrees, that is, there should be a complete absence of horizontal segments along the entire path. We make a rotary damper at the bottom of the chimney. It can be made from a piece of sheet steel; the diameter of the cut valve should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the pipe. We drill a hole in the pipe for the damper adjustment knob; a steel rod is suitable for this purpose. We weld a sleeve from a 15–20 cm piece of pipe to the hole in the lid; its diameter should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the chimney pipe in order to make the process of installing or dismantling the chimney as easy as possible. All that remains is to install the stove and test it.

Photo gallery: stove manufacturing process

Assembled chimney Chimney installed on the stove

Lining

Metal stoves are often lined with bricks on the outside and inside. But there are two reasons why you shouldn’t do this:

Brick has rather low thermal conductivity and high heat capacity. The heat generated by burning fuel in the firebox simply flies out into the chimney along with the smoke. without having time to warm up the metal walls of the potbelly stove.
The stove surface is deprived of air access, thereby significantly accelerating the burnout of the walls and the risk of carbon monoxide entering the room, which is dangerous to human health and life.

Selection and preparation of installation site

For this type of stoves, there is no need to build a monolithic foundation due to their low weight. To select an installation location, you should be guided by such parameters as distance from doors and windows (for less heat loss) and the convenience of removing the chimney from the room. Garages and utility rooms usually have a concrete floor, so no underlayment is required. In rooms with wooden floors, a sheet of asbestos or tin should be laid over the installation site and secured around the perimeter with self-tapping screws. To avoid heat loss, foil thermal insulation can be glued to the walls near the installation site.

Decoration

To decorate a potbelly stove, you can use fireclay plates or decorative metal plates, or you can simply paint the stove with special heat-resistant paints to your taste, after cleaning the surfaces with sandpaper.

Exploitation

Some requirements for safe operation, following which you will protect yourself and your loved ones:

The stove must be placed on a fireproof base.
All flammable objects and liquids must be kept at a safe distance of 80–100 cm from the stove.
You should not completely fill the firebox with wood at one time.
Always make sure that the firebox door is closed when using the stove.
Regularly inspect the chimney for leaky places to avoid smoke entering the room.
Do not leave the oven running unattended for long periods of time.
Do not try to touch the oven body while it is operating to avoid burns.

Cleaning and Maintenance

With intensive use of the stove, soot and dirt are deposited in the chimney channel, and gradually accumulating, narrowing the lumen of the channel, which entails a decrease in draft and overall efficiency of the structure. It is enough to check the chimney once a year for contamination and, if necessary, clean it of soot. There are several ways to clean a chimney:

Mechanical, with a brush or brush.
Chemical, by burning potato peelings in a firebox, while the released starch softens the soot and it comes out.

For better efficiency, you can combine these two methods. The best way to remove carbon deposits from the walls of the firebox is with a metal brush. The mirror and grate are easily removed for replacement or minor repairs.

Video: how to make a potbelly stove yourself

Making a metal stove yourself is not as difficult as it might initially seem. Of course, this design is not the only option of its kind, but it is already proven and reliable.