Drawing of a plate for a router. DIY milling tables (drawings, videos and diagrams). Main parts of the milling table

I made this table from 18 mm. plywood. It is thick enough to make the structure very durable. To strengthen the structural elements, I used a metal corner with a cross section of 40X40 mm.

The tabletop has dimensions of 800x500 mm. A hole is cut in the center to the size of the router sole. The sides are attached to the tabletop at the corners using self-tapping screws. The bottom sidewalls are also connected using corners and self-tapping screws. 4 holes of 10 mm are drilled in the tabletop. and driven nuts for fastening the combs are installed. The right side has a fork and a switch for convenient starting of the router. The "Start" button on the router itself is locked.

The milling cutter base is screwed to a 2 mm thick steel plate. and size 200X200 mm. A recess is made in the tabletop and the plate is placed flush on top, attached to the tabletop with self-tapping screws. A hole with a diameter of 50 mm is cut in the center of the plate.

For raising and lowering the router it is used car jack. It is attached to the base of the table with self-tapping screws. The handle was replaced with a homemade flywheel for more smooth adjustment. The jack is not attached to the router in any way.

The guide ruler is also made of plywood. Assembled with Moment Joiner glue and reinforced with self-tapping screws. In the middle part of the line there is a box with a hole for attaching the vacuum cleaner pipe. Adjustment grooves are cut out on the sides of the ruler. 10 mm bolts are inserted into the tabletop, the ruler is attached to the bolts using eye nuts.

The combs are cut from fir and serve to press the workpiece more tightly against the guide. Grooves are cut into the comb for moving along the tabletop. To secure the combs to the tabletop, bolts with bushings are used.

To prevent the workpiece from moving up and down, a special spring stop is made of plywood. It is attached to the guide ruler using wing nuts.

That's the whole structure. You can see more details about this table in my film.

Having a homemade or purchased milling table for home work and construction is the most necessary unit in the garage. This is a universal processing machine modern building materials, if there is a wide range of cutters of different diameters.

It is important to know that if there is hand router any brand, no need to spend money on a branded machine. It is not difficult to assemble a milling table with your own hands.

Milling table design

It is customary to take strong sheet material. It could be:

• MDF board;
• thick plywood;
• board made of boards of any thickness.

For each type of table, a material that is convenient for processing is selected. But it is logical to assume that the working part itself (the cover) or the plane receives the most load. Therefore it must be made of metal. Stainless steel is the ideal option.

Important! The working surfaces of the structure should not absorb moisture or the resin of raw wood.

To install a manual router, use a classic workbench or assemble a separate structure. The latter must be as stable as possible, since vibration during operation is guaranteed.

The tool itself is installed at the bottom of the table or workbench, so they provide such a position so that it is easy to remove and put back the hand router. After all, stationary milling machines are increasingly used for woodworking not on an industrial scale. In theory, nothing complicated: they assemble the stand, mount a power tool (drill, not a new router). If you try, then such an installation will not be inferior to the commercial version, because the master prepares the device for himself.

Main parts of the milling table

We mean the set of elements from which it is not difficult to assemble the installation on your own:

• Aluminum guides.
• Steel plate for working area. It's also a mounting plate. A router is attached to it.
• Sheet of plywood.
• For the base MDF panel.

On this kind of tables, it is advisable to install the buttons necessary for turning on and quickly stopping (emergency lights). Upper clamping devices are included in the assembly plan in case of working with large parts.

Table type

There are only three of them. Milling tables are:

• Aggregate. It is possible to expand the saw plane.
• Portable. Small size, easy to carry weight.
• Stationary. The structure is weighty and very difficult to move on your own.

Cover material

• The base, cover or working surface must be covered with plastic (if we're talking about about MDF panel). But such a table can become saturated with moisture, which will affect the quality of the milling cut, plus the grooves in the swollen panel lose their normal mobility.
• Phenolic plastic. Optimal for a machine, but more expensive than an MDF panel.
• Steel. Aluminum, stainless steel or rolled sheet. Sometimes they also install cast iron. But the issue of corrosion is solved with paint.

Groove for stop

This is just a recess for a movable longitudinal stop or a built-in carriage. The groove is perfect element table design, due to which additional devices are used. An analogue of a groove is a movable slide. They are perpendicular to the longitudinal stop, plus they are also movable.

Fixing the router

The hand tool is mounted on a rigid plate made of steel, stainless steel, aluminum, textolite, etc. The plate itself is mounted with a recess so that it can be recessed into a level with the lid.

To attach the base of a hand router, you need to prepare countersunk screw connections.

Longitudinal stop

Fixed on the table. Its purpose is to correctly feed the workpiece. Longitudinal stops are stationary. This is convenient for processing the same type of material.

Sliding stops are ideal for milling various elements according to dimensions. The quality of operation of the entire machine depends on the longitudinal stop, its stability and smoothness.

Preparing for work

Before assembly, we study the design in parts. If there is nothing to choose from, then we buy more necessary materials for sequential assembly.

What materials should I use?

It is not forbidden to assemble a structure with your own hands from available materials. Everything comes into play:

• Plywood of any thickness.
• Boards or shields made from them. Any bars.
• Chipboard, fibreboard.
• Rolled steel and aluminum.
• Pipe rolling.

Required components

It is necessary to purchase additional components if you are planning a CNC milling table. But a classic stationary machine is not difficult to make from:

• Any hand router.
• Drills.

Tools for work

For work we prepare:

• Wood glue.
• Nuts, screws and bolts the right size.
• Cover material (MDF or plywood).
• Power tools (jigsaw, miter saw, etc.).
• Sandpaper.
• Marking tool.

Table manufacturing stages

Before starting to purchase the material, determine the location in the workshop for future installation. When the future design will be used occasionally, then portable tables are chosen. But if there is a lot of space in the carpentry workshop, then a wide milling table, convenient for processing boards or panels of 2 meters, is productive.

Manufacturing of bed and table top

By frame we mean a frame with a support, but which also houses the tabletop itself. It is customary to assemble a bed from whatever is spared. No particular preference. You need to achieve rigidity and stability.

Before assembling the frame, it is advisable to take care of the operator’s comfort. Usually Bottom part the bed deepens 10-20 cm from the lid itself. It’s more comfortable and therefore safer.

If you study the drawings and design features, it is not difficult to fit a convenient one to an old router carpentry workbench. We remember that vibration occurs from the operation of the machine, so we are considering this option if the workbench is firmly standing.

It is customary for homemade products to use a reliable, stable, motionless frame, and it is advisable to weld it from a profile, since the entire load is transferred to the base. Fits:

• Steel pipe.
• Corner (trimmings).
• Channel.

Only later wooden beam and chipboard.

Inexpensively assemble a milling table for occasional use from profile pipe 25x25 or 40x20. At angle grinder help cut the profile into 4 legs, a rectangle (frame) and lower connecting parts. All this is strictly in size.

Then the profile is welded into a frame, complementing the structure with a pipe. The latter is necessary for the parallel stop. 4-6 legs must be framed with a profile or corner. But this is after installing the table cover itself. Plus, the metal frame makes it possible to pre-weld a limiter for electrical equipment.

The mounting plate must be wider than the diameter of the cutter if you plan to work with several cutting attachments. It is more profitable or cheaper to form this element from 20 mm birch plywood.

But it is more practical to work on a homemade machine with cast polycarbonate as mounting plate. The essence of the work is this:

• Remove the soleplate from the power tool, having first placed the mounting plate face up.
• Temporarily connect the plate and sole using double-sided tape.
• Select drills to match the diameter of the factory fasteners and drill the correct holes for fastening on the plate.
• Next, connect the homemade plate with the router and place it on the table for adjustment.
• An 8 mm drill is placed in the collet and the motor is lowered. You need to touch the plate with the drill and mark the center.
• Next, follow the mark to make a hole of the required diameter.

Milling table assembly

Start with the tabletop or lid:

• To process the material, the canvas itself is conveniently placed.
• We saw plywood, MDF panel with plastic on work surface, support base and wall, gusset (4 pcs), side bar, connecting strips (4 pcs).
• We assemble the table itself using fasteners that are easy to use. Self-tapping screws and bolts are used.

Having the structure assembled, you can apply paints and varnishes, if necessary.

• We measure 20-30 cm from the edge, install an aluminum guide or leave a groove for the carriage. Full length sampling.
• A recess for the sole is prepared on the tabletop. We trace the last one, cut it out with a jigsaw and remember the necessary groove so that the table and installed tool had one plane. We position the recess for the sole so that it is convenient for the operator to work.
• Now, using a hand router, we make a semicircular groove for the sole itself, having previously set the desired size. Holes are also needed in the groove to secure the tool.
• It is advisable to hide the fasteners or recess them in the table; for this purpose, recesses are made for hexagonal clamping bolts.
• We have fasteners that can be adjusted to adjust the plane of the milling platform.

Parallel stop:

• We take plywood and create a groove in it. Also, to attach the parallel stop, you need 3-4 strips of the same size, plus a stiffener for each.
• The easiest way is to fix the parallel stop with clamps.

If the table is on metal frame, then it contains a pipe, it is necessary just for installing the parallel stop.

Making the top clamp

The easiest way to make one or more pressure combs with your own hands. Here they use dry, strong wood. For a large stationary table, a 450x50 mm comb is suitable.

To make it you will need sawing machine, jigsaw or band-saw. This tool can be used to make bevels; an angle of 30 degrees and cuts of 50 mm are sufficient. It is advisable to make bevels on both sides of the clamp.

Then these elements need to be secured by drilling holes for installation. The finished “comb” must be polished. It is most convenient to equip clamps with threaded clamps. Thus, the auxiliary tool can be quickly reconfigured. It is better to do this on a stop, where a groove will be machined in advance for the movement of the combs themselves.

Drive for a homemade milling machine

For drive the most important parameter is power. Manual assembly implies a motor from Soviet or Russian technology, with minimum parameter at 500 watts.

If you succeed at homemade machine If you set the drive to be more powerful, 1-2 kilowatts, then it’s easy to work with any type of cutter. It is important that the electric motor has reinforced bearings. Then long-term resistance to heavy loads occurring on the transverse or longitudinal axis of rotation is guaranteed.

Subtleties of assembly

Any type of this kind of homemade product will be more convenient if you have a metal ruler. It will help you set up the rip fence and maintain the size and angle.

WITH reverse side The recess for mounting the casing of a vacuum cleaner or cyclone is very useful. This optional equipment It is advisable to sum it up after studying the drawings.

Safety when working on a homemade milling table

Manual milling cutter or stationary – this is a class of power tool increased danger. The operating rules are as follows:

• While working on the machine, you must not lose concentration; the workpiece must be fed using auxiliary tool, like on a circular saw.
• Protective gloves and goggles are required.
• The presence of strangers in the room, children or assistants is not correct. When the device is running, you must remove all of them.
• If a cutter or the power tool itself malfunctions, changes the pace of work, or rejects products, then it must be turned off from the network as soon as possible. If possible, make repairs and then continue working.

Results

Assembling a milling table requires the presence of auxiliary tools, good fasteners and the required amount of material. This type of machine is a private craftsman’s dream. You need to treat the assembly as carefully as possible even at the drawing stage, deciding on the nature of the future machine, its main working element.

It’s not difficult to make a milling table with your own hands, having in front of you the drawings, necessary materials, and fasteners. Some people think that it is better to purchase a finished product. Others are confident that a homemade table allows you to accurately adapt the work platform to your needs, the nuances of a CNC machine or a conventional manual router. What to choose is up to you.

To make yourself a table for a router, you first need to decide what kind of table it will be. Working with a milling machine can vary depending on a number of factors, including the size of the machine itself.

Working on a table for a CNC router begins with you choosing which drawing will become the basis for production. It is not uncommon for work to be carried out without drawings. But then you must draw the parameters of the future table yourself and cut its elements using a circular saw. You should choose the components that you will need to make a homemade table based on its main elements.

1. Construction type. Work outside the workshop, and with constant movement, requires the choice of a portable table for a machine with or without CNC program control. If the work will be carried out in a garage or workshop without the need to move the table, you should choose a stationary table for your router. There is an aggregate type. This is an option when the tabletop of your milling machine is expanded or a rotary version of the design is made.
2. Tabletop. To make the top of your table, use chipboard or MDF sheets. These materials are easily cut using a circular saw, so the work does not cause difficulties. Many people make a homemade table using a pressed tabletop. But it is important to understand that when working in conditions of increased dampness, they quickly swell and become unusable. Alternatively, you can choose plastic. Polymer sheets create excellent practical table top. Metal is stronger, but heavy material. If you decide to choose aluminum, be sure to cover it with a protective layer of varnish.
3. Groove and stop. Working on a milling machine usually involves longitudinal processing of the side of workpieces. If you want to machine transverse end elements, the design must include a movable stop. This stop will move in the grooves. The groove will also serve as a fixation for the clamping elements of the structure.
4. Installation of the router. Using a homemade table, attaching a hand router to the table can be done directly to the bottom of the tabletop or to a removable platform. The first option is easier to do, but if you choose the second method, you will get some advantages in the form of easier removal of the cutter when changing cutting tools. In this regard, the mounting plate is a more preferable option, which will take a little longer to tinker with.
5. Longitudinal stop. This stop acts as a guide for the workpieces. Therefore, the most important requirement is that the emphasis must be as even as possible. Since this is a homemade table, you can use a T-slot to support it. Clamping devices and other components are inserted into it to simplify work on the machine.

All necessary elements can be cut using a circular saw. Making a homemade table is not a problem. The tabletop, stop, guides, and fasteners are clearly indicated by size if you use standard drawings. Taking finished drawing, you can adapt a homemade table for a CNC machine to suit your own needs. Act in what is best for you. Finding the drawings themselves will not be difficult, and you probably have a circular saw in your arsenal of power tools, since you are going to make a table for a CNC machine.

Do it yourself

To make yourself a table for a manual router or a machine with a CNC module, you will need drawings and the necessary elements future design, which we described above.

Choosing a drawing for a future design under milling machine, be sure to focus on the dimensions of your machine, as well as the dimensions of the space available to place the equipment. Do big table It doesn’t make sense for a small CNC machine, just like vice versa.

You can always redo the drawing, make some amendments, based on available materials, features of the machine, the presence of a circular saw and other nuances. If you need a good one coordinate table for a router, it is better to purchase a factory-made one. Making a homemade coordinate table is quite problematic.

We offer you the option of a small table, work on which will allow you to easily place a small bench router with CNC or without module. The advantage of this design is that it is easy to make with your own hands, it has small sizes, simple fastenings are used here.

1. It is recommended to make the work table and side racks from laminated plywood. The material must be thick enough to withstand the load. The approximate dimensions of the tabletop will be 40 by 60 millimeters. Not taking into account the corner stop, the height will be 35 cm. The corner stop itself has a height of 10 cm. Instead of plywood, metal or plastic plate. A plate made from such materials is more durable and less subject to wear. But metal plate will add weight, making the table not so mobile and light.
2. Make three grooves on the surface of the tabletop that will serve to install the rails. Here auxiliary components of the future working surface can be installed, which you may need to operate milling cutters or a circular milling machine.
3. To increase the stability of the leg mounting structure, reinforce it with chipboard or MDF sheets No. 22. The table legs need to be installed at some distance so that there is room for fixing the templates and clamps with clamps.
4. You can cover the machine mechanism by covering the bottom of the front panel with a sheet of plywood or similar material.
5. Grooves must be made under the side stop, along which it can move. The stop is fixed at the required location with bolts and nuts. Moreover, it is better to use wing nuts. In this case, you can easily remove the stop and put another unit in its place.
6. The stop is connected to a pipe, which is necessary for removing dust and chips during processing. To drain waste, use ordinary corrugated hoses, which are widely used in sewerage. You can connect a home vacuum cleaner through the clamp.
7. If you have table machine, it is better to provide a toggle switch to turn the machine on and off. If you do not have a desktop router, but a simple manual router, you will not need such a toggle switch.
8. The stop includes two elements that can move or move apart depending on the size of the working tool. To secure the sashes, use wing nuts. This design will allow you to easily remove the milling device from the frame and change cutters as needed.
9. What material to use for mounting surface for a CNC milling machine, decide for yourself. Experts advise taking textolite or plexiglass.

A similar table for a desktop or manual milling machine can be made using a circular saw, electric jigsaw And standard tools. The coordinate version of the table is much more complicated, so the work involves the use of appropriate drawings and materials.

Which table to choose for you - a coordinate table or a regular homemade one for a CNC router or without it, decide for yourself. The work must be performed efficiently, observing all specified dimensions. Watch the video instructions that will help you determine which table is suitable for your machine. fits better Total.

Milling table allows you to significantly increase the efficiency and productivity of work. There are many models available for sale for a wide variety of hand routers. However the price finished products very overpriced. It is much more profitable and interesting to assemble the table with your own hands. None expensive materials and you don’t need any difficult-to-use tools for this.

General information about the design of the milling table

The milling table can be installed on a workbench or on a specially assembled separate table. The product must have a rigid structure and good stability, because During operation, a very noticeable vibration will be created. Be sure to take into account the fact that the router will be installed from below the countertop and absolutely nothing should interfere with it. No additional elements are installed there.

Design homemade table provides for the presence of a mounting plate, due to which the router will be attached directly to the table. To create a plate use durable material High Quality: plywood, textolite, sheet metal, etc.

A recess is created on top of the tabletop for the plate. The plate itself is fixed using self-tapping screws with a hidden head. The router is secured with screws with the same hidden head. Additional fixation of the plate can be done using clamps.

To conveniently turn on the router, a button is attached to the table. Additionally, it is recommended to install an emergency shutdown button of the mushroom type. If you have to work with large workpieces, equip the table with upper clamping devices. For even greater convenience and accuracy, the table is equipped with a ruler.

For self-assembly For a router table you will need the following tools:

1. Electric jigsaw. If you don't have one, you can get by with a hacksaw.
2. Plane. Preferably electric.
3. Chisel.
4. Sander. If you don’t have it, you can get by with a block of sandpaper, but processing with them will require more time and effort.
5. A screwdriver or drill with a screwdriver function.
6. Electric drill with a set of drills.

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Initial stage of table assembly

Explore your workshop and choose a location to install your future router table. Determine the most suitable design products. Tables are:

1. Aggregate. At their core, they are a side extension of a standard saw table.
2. Portable. A very convenient and ergonomic desktop option.
3. Stationary. It is installed separately and assembled specifically for the router.

If your router table will be used infrequently, or you have to work outside the workshop, opt for a portable option. If you have enough space, create a separate table. For greater convenience, it can be equipped with wheels, which will allow you to “move” to another place if necessary.

You can assemble a small structure and install it on an ordinary table. You can take a chipboard of a suitable size and install a guide on it. Guide in in this case is a board of relatively small thickness, secured with bolts.

Take 2 clamps. Make a hole for the cutter. This will complete the main work. However, if the machine is your main working tool, you need to approach the process more thoroughly and create a convenient and reliable table, which will be comfortable to spend time with.

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Preparing the bed and tabletop

The bed is the stationary part of any milling table. At its core, it is a frame on supports with a table top on top. Frame material special significance does not have. Suitable for wood, metal, chipboard, MDF. The main thing is to ensure the required rigidity and maximum stability. The dimensions of the bed are also not critical. Select them taking into account the size of materials you most often have to process.

The lower part of the bed should be deepened by 10-20 cm in relation to the front overhang of the tabletop. Dimensions, as already noted, select to suit your needs. For example, to process the ends of facade blanks and door trims, you can make a bed 150 cm wide, 90 cm high, 50 cm deep.

Very important characteristic in this case is the height. The optimal value is 85-90 cm. It’s good if you can equip the frame adjustable feet. They will allow you to compensate for uneven floor surfaces and change the height of the milling table if the need arises.

To make a homemade table, you can take an ordinary kitchen countertop made of chipboard. A plate with a thickness of 26 or 36 mm with wear-resistant plastic coated. Thanks to the plastic, the workpiece will slide well on the tabletop, and the chipboard will take on the task of dampening vibration. As a last resort, you can use laminated chipboard or MDF with a thickness of at least 16 mm.

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What do you need to know about the mounting plate?

A mounting plate must be fixed near the place where the router sole is attached. The best is considered durable and at the same time thin material. Most often used sheet metal. A more convenient and equally durable option is textolite (fiberglass). Usually this is a rectangular plate 4-8 mm thick. It is necessary to prepare a hole in the center of such a plate. Its diameter should be the same as the diameter of the hole in the base of the router.

The base of the router is usually equipped with standard threaded holes necessary for attaching the plastic cover. These holes secure the router to the mounting plate. If there are no holes initially, make them yourself. You can use another method of attaching the router, for example, with metal clamps. Holes for securing the plate are created closer to its corners.

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Step-by-step instructions for assembling the table

First you need to secure the tabletop to the finished frame. A plate is placed on a pre-selected location on the tabletop. Take a pencil and trace its contours. Next, you need to take a hand router with a 6-10 mm cutter and select a seat for the mounting plate in the countertop. It should lie flush, i.e. compose perfectly flat surface with the tabletop, as if one whole.

U seat There should be slightly rounded corners. You can round them using a file. After adding the mounting plate, take a cutter with a thickness slightly greater than the thickness of the tabletop, and make through holes in the tabletop exactly according to the shape of the router sole. You don’t have to try too hard; perfect accuracy is not required at this stage. At the bottom of the tabletop, you need to make an additional sample for the dust collector casing and other accessories that you plan to equip your milling table with.

The work is almost complete, you just need to assemble everything into a single product. Place the router from underneath and screw it to the plate. Secure the plate to the tabletop with self-tapping screws. The screw caps must be recessed, otherwise they will interfere with the work process. Finally screw the tabletop to the frame.

In order to increase convenience and safety, you can equip the design with an upper pressure roller device. This addition will be especially useful when processing large workpieces, such as door trims. The design of the clamp does not have any complex elements, so you can make and install it yourself without any problems.

A ball bearing of the required size can be used as a roller. The bearing is installed in a holding fixture. The device itself must be firmly fixed at the required distance from the surface of your countertop. This way you will ensure constant tight pressure of the workpiece being processed to the surface of the tabletop as the product passes under the roller. Thanks to this, the accuracy and safety of the work performed will be increased.

A milling machine is purchased for many carpentry jobs. But sometimes the scope of its application increases significantly, and there is a need to reconstruct the workplace. A do-it-yourself milling table for a manual router is a great opportunity to save money cash and create a high-quality work surface for yourself. Carpentry work is now in great demand, and in Everyday life this tool is quite useful. And more comfortable working conditions will make him simply irreplaceable.

Milling table

An experienced carpenter can assemble a simple milling table with his own hands even without drawings, prepared dimensions and diagrams. There are many videos on the Internet on this topic and step-by-step explanations of the essence of the work. If you have decided to try yourself in this area for the first time, then do not despair; if you wish, you can make a table for a hand router in just one day. In addition, you will be completely confident in the strength of your product, and you will also be able to choose perfect sizes, which are necessary specifically for your premises. But, before making a circular milling table, you should understand what it is.

Milling table drawing

A homemade milling table is in no way distinguishable from a store-bought version if it is made in compliance with the basic rules and requirements. Milling machines move along the surface of the material being processed, thereby leveling it. If this type make the processing stationary, then the master will spend much less time and effort on the work.

A DIY router table takes up a certain amount of space in the room. Therefore, before installation, decide what kind of table you want to see:

• aggregate;
• removable;
• stationary.

Aggregate Portable Stationary

Remember that most work can only be performed in a stationary mode. Also, consider how often you will use the machine, because for rare use a portable model is quite suitable, and for daily use - a stationary one workplace.

What parts does a milling table consist of?

A homemade milling table can be made alone, without resorting to outside help. To do this, it is necessary to manufacture all the main parts of the structure for subsequent assembly. Without one of the parts, the milling table can become practically useless, since it will not perform its main duties. The DIY router consists of the following parts:

• countertops;
• beds;
• hem stop;
• pressing combs;
• mounting plate.

The tabletop for a hand router should be thick, durable and even. Great for this kitchen countertops, or, if this is not available, ordinary plywood. Just remember that a universal milling table requires a thickness of at least 16 mm, so plywood sheets should be glued together with wood glue. Additional means you can make the surface smoother, for more convenient work. You need to make a hole in the center to install the router.

Milling table drawings cannot do without a bed. It is responsible for the stability of the structure, absorbing all vibrations emanating from the instrument. For this you can use old bedside tables and tables, but provided that they are very durable. Some focus their attention on metal models, which is quite practical.

Milling table from an old bedside table

The hem stop, fixed to the tabletop, is responsible for the correct supply of material. It can be made motionless for permanent materials, or sliding, if the master will work with elements of different sizes. This is very important element in work, since the quality of the cutter’s work will depend on the evenness of all sides.

Pressing combs on the table for a circular saw and a router are almost mandatory. They perfectly fix the material not only from the sides, but also from above. This comb can be installed at any height using fasteners. Its dimensions are set based on the personal wishes of the master and what he will encounter in his work.

Experts advise immediately installing sliding ridges and stops, then the functionality working machine will increase significantly.

Assembly Rules

Assembling a milling table with your own hands should be done in stages. First you need to decide on the tabletop and make a hole in it for the tool. Next, material supply control systems are attached.

In this case, it is necessary to accurately determine the places of their attachment down to the smallest detail, since the quality of further work depends on this.

The milling machine itself must be firmly secured under the tabletop. It should not dangle or hang; any movements can lead to injury during operation or equipment breakdown. It is better to fix it with self-tapping screws, for your own peace of mind.

The main thing in this method work is to make the most convenient workplace for the master. And in this regard, the master himself works with all dimensions, knowing what he actually wants to get as a result.

Electronics at work

It’s quite easy to make a circular and milling table with your own hands, but don’t forget that this tool works from electric current. Since the start and stop buttons will be located in an inconvenient place for the master, you need to take care of their use. You can make an exit and install buttons to start and stop the mechanism in convenient place, but this requires knowledge in electronics.

Eat Alternative option, which is less safe for the router and circular saw. The start button is pressed, and it is in a constantly on state, stopping only by the cable when disconnected from the network.

Handmade new milling table must fully comply floor covering workplace. If the floors are uneven, you should make legs with a movable mechanism, otherwise the structure will quickly become unusable. In order for the service life of the router table to significantly exceed all expectations, its surface is coated with varnish or other woodworking liquid. This not only increases service life, but also additionally holds the elements together.

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Protect yourself from damage that may occur during operation. On longitudinal stop install protective glass, which will be a barrier to flying chips, sawdust and other elements.

When making a milling table at home with your own hands, remember that working with it is quite dangerous and you better take care of your safety.

Every person's workshop contains all the tools he needs. But at the same time, there may be an urgent need to arrange a workplace, and store prices may not suit you. And in general, not all people have the opportunity to visit stores with similar goods.

Milling table drawing

The milling table has drawings and diagrams, so making it yourself will not be difficult. Moreover, you yourself will know which model you need and what sizes will be convenient for you. Purchase option may not always be a way out of the situation. Don’t be afraid and waste time; even a beginner can figure out how to make a table.