Drawing of equipment for artistic forging. A do-it-yourself cold forging machine will not only save you money, but also give you the opportunity to earn money. Connecting parts and painting

Any master, setting up a home forge, acquires a minimum set of tools and accessories. But, as a rule, the simplest technological operations with metal blanks are done only at the first stage.

With the acquisition of experience in working with “iron”, both the desire and the need to engage in artistic forging appears - this is both home decoration and additional income. Unfortunately, a machine for giving samples a spiral shape - a snail - is practically not found on sale. One way or another, home craftsmen, as a rule, make it with their own hands. Features of independent design and assembly of a snail for cold forging are the topic of this article.

Features of the snail

The author specifically decided to draw the reader's attention to a number of points. This will help you avoid some mistakes in the future. For example, having understood the structure of the snail and the principle of its functioning, someone will want to assemble their own device, different from those whose drawings will be presented below.

Such a device (if we are talking about equipment made by hand) will allow bending samples with a cross-section (square side) of no more than 10 - 12 mm. This implies a “manually controlled” snail model. Almost no one has anything to do with larger samples in everyday life. The machine can be improved by installing a drive and an electric motor.

But how rational is this for a small home forge?

• Cold forging is carried out at low speeds. A sharp change in the geometry of the metal leads to the appearance of cracks (ruptures).
• You will have to not only select the power of the electric motor, but also the gear ratio of the gearbox. Plus, you need to mount the automation circuit with the installation of the corresponding elements (buttons, starter, and so on). All this significantly complicates the manufacture of the machine.

Conclusion - for a home forge, a snail is enough, with which you can bend metal products by hand. Anyone who understands all the nuances of its design and understands at least something about electrical engineering will be able to independently install an electric drive on it.

Making a snail

Several devices are shown in the figure. This is roughly how it should turn out (basically).

Assembling a snail with your own hands is one of the options for independent design, when it makes no sense to give recommendations indicating the exact parameters of all components. Here you need to focus on your own idea of ​​what will bend and how (radii, number of spiral turns, and so on). But if the essence of the manufacturing process becomes clear, then the assembly itself will not cause any difficulties.

Desktop device

The cold forging process requires a lot of effort. If you already have a ready-made workbench, you may have to strengthen it. When making a snail from scratch, the table frame is made only of metal - a channel, a corner, a thick-walled pipe.

It is clear that the tabletop should also be metal. During the operation of the snail, it will be subjected to both static and dynamic loads. Therefore, ordinary iron sheet is not suitable. Only a plate, and not less than 4 mm.

Marking and installation of “attached” equipment

Perhaps the most creative stage of work. You can do everything with your own hands. But how, taking into account the future or limiting ourselves to the production of similar samples?

Option 1. The simplest. The meaning of the operation is that the outline of a spiral is drawn on the tabletop.

Essentially, this is a sketch of future shaped parts, for example, from a rod. After this, it is enough to cut out several segments from a thick strip of iron, bent along a radius. They are welded to the tabletop, and the bending mechanism is basically ready.

Some may find this design more attractive – with a solid stripe.

But practice shows that it is more difficult to work with such a snail. For example, when removing the finished product from it, certain difficulties will arise.

Option 2. The same, but several contours are drawn. Holes are drilled along each one and threads are cut into them. All that remains is to prepare the templates for the stop segments. They are usually made with your own hands from thick cardboard or plywood.

Overlays are made from metal, in which, after the next marking, holes are also drilled, coinciding with the landing “sockets” in the slab. This design will make it possible to organize the production of spiral-shaped workpieces with different radii on one table. You will only have to, depending on the shape of the bend, install the appropriate segments in certain places. Their fastening to the base is bolted. You can do it differently. Instead of such stops, install cylindrical ones.

For fixation, they are attached with bolts (from the bottom of the slab) or are made immediately with legs (+ thread) and screwed into the tabletop. It's much more convenient with them. And if you have your own, then turning it with your own hands will take a couple of hours.

Option 3. Prepare several removable modules that can be changed as needed.

Snail assembly

The ploughshare is installed, the levers and the side stop are attached. All this is clearly visible in the pictures.

Everything that is in the shed (garage, attic) will be used - cuttings of pipes, rods, corners, and the like. If the principle of the snail’s operation is clear, then no further hints are required.

Functionality check

This is always implied, so no comment.

In principle, making a snail for cold forging is not so difficult. Moreover, there is no single standard for such devices. Someone will say – isn’t it easier to buy a factory model? Firstly, as already said, you will have to search for a long time. Secondly, it is not a fact that her capabilities will coincide with the fantasies of the master. Thirdly, you will have to lighten your wallet by about 19,000 (manual) and 62,000 (electric model) rubles, at a minimum.

Good luck in making your own snail!

Hot forging has been known to man since he began to process and use metals in his life. Before the invention of stamping and metal-cutting machines, hot forging and casting were the only ways to produce tools and weapons, household items and jewelry.

To master traditional blacksmithing, one had to study and gain experience for a long time. The blacksmith's products turned out to be very labor-intensive and unique, this is an undoubted advantage for artistic creativity and an equally obvious disadvantage where a large number of identical products are needed.

Disadvantages of hot forging such as:

• high labor intensity,
• high requirements for the qualifications of the master,
• low repeatability of products.

The cold forging method has no disadvantages. It is based on the property of metals to change their shape within certain limits under the influence of mechanical force. The technology is applicable to round and square bars, metal strip, pipes and rolled products of various profiles. Several basic operations such as

• bending the workpiece at a given angle and along a given radius,
• formation of curls and spirals,
• twisting one or more workpieces along the longitudinal axis

and the combination of the resulting parts allows you to create lace fences, gazebos, benches, decorative elements and household utensils in a reasonable time and at an affordable price, several times, or even tens of times lower than when using hot forging.

In addition, all elements will be exactly the same in shape and size, which is especially important when forming patterns and ornaments from them.

To obtain the main elements, special machines are used.

• Gnutik is one of the most popular. It allows you to bend a rod at a given angle and along a given radius, including in the form of a wave.
• The snail is used to twist the end of a rod or pipe into a spiral
• The torsion bar is designed to twist the rod along its longitudinal axis.

Device "Gnutik"

The rollers on the fixed stops are replaceable in order to be able to bend rods and pipes at different angles and radii. A replaceable roller or wedge is also attached to the movable stop, depending on the required bending shape.

While the workpiece is still straight, it is clamped with fixed stops and, by rotating the drive of the worm mechanism of the bending rod, a movable stop - a wedge or a roller - is brought to it. Continuing to rotate the drive, bend the workpiece to the desired angle.

It is quite possible to make a bend for cold forging with your own hands; it is enough to follow the drawing exactly, observing the dimensions and allowances.

Difficulties in the home workshop can arise with milling high-strength steel and drilling holes in it.

If the workshop does not yet have such equipment, it is better to place an order for the main parts of the bending machine in production - such work will not be completed with a drill and jigsaw.

Connecting and painting parts

To assemble parts into the desired design, it is necessary to provide a flat, free space - on the floor or on the table, depending on the size. It is better to sandblast the workpieces to remove possible rust and clean the surface before welding and painting. You can also make a sandblasting unit yourself from a used gas cylinder, a pair of pipes and taps. For the injector, you can use a ceramic body from a used spark plug. To do this, it is enough to have the skills of welding and metalwork.

After sandblasting, the parts are laid out on the assembly area. For ease of work, you can use lining bars. After the parts are placed, it is worth checking again that their location matches the drawing. Next, having fixed the key structural elements with clamps, you need to spot weld them to each other. Having checked the dimensions, angles and relative positions one last time, you can begin welding all the necessary seams.

After welding, it is necessary to clean off the scale with wire brushes attached to a drill, and in hard-to-reach places manually. The structure is ready for painting. Depending on the selected primers and finishing paint, as well as on the method of application, the assembly is laid on spacer bars or secured vertically with temporary stops.

It is convenient to paint structures with a high density of parts using a spray gun; for sparse grilles, you will have to arm yourself with a brush to reduce paint loss.

Products produced by cold forging

A wide variety of products are made using the cold forging method. These are, first of all, elements of gratings and fences - both the rods themselves and the crossbars, tops, and decorations. From a distance of several meters it is difficult to distinguish it from a forged lattice. Any lattice will be enlivened by curls and spirals that form intricate patterns and ornaments. An ordinary fence, therefore, in addition to its utilitarian purpose, also acquires artistic value. For this you will need a bend, a snail and a torsion bar.

Forged stands for lanterns, railings for bridges over ponds, awnings and porches, tables and benches look great in the local area. And it’s a good idea to make the gazebo itself from a forged rod. Curls and spirals will give it unexpected lightness and airiness for harsh metal, and twisted supports will emphasize the upward striving.

Forged barbecues are also widespread today, also complementing the economic purpose with an aesthetic impression. The barbecue itself is lost among the canopy, patterned walls and supports, and the roof decorated with curls.

Parts of balustrades, staircase railings and balconies are also very popular. Curls and spirals are also widely used here, not only as decoration, but also as a structural element. A baluster twisted along the longitudinal axis looks very appropriate, and corner supports are often made from several rods twisted together. They also make the so-called on a torsion bar machine. “flashlight” - several rods bent in a spiral, connected at the ends by welding.

The next area of ​​application of cold forging is details of room decoration and furniture. Door handles and latches, fireplace tools and hangers, umbrella stands and cornices for curtains and curtains - small curls and twisted rods are widely used here.

Furniture is made both for garden furniture, which is not afraid of precipitation and changing seasons, and for home furniture, combining metal with wood and fabric.

One way to decorate areas is to use forged items. Fences, benches, gazebos, stair railings and other similar structures look very decorative. Moreover, in most cases, these products are not forging in its traditional sense. Most often, this is done not in a forge or with a hammer and an anvil, but with the help of some devices that allow you to create a wide variety of patterns and products from metal strips and square rods. To make such products, you will need cold forging machines. Some of them you can make with your own hands, others are easier to buy.

Fences, railings for stairs and balconies can also be made with your own hands. Railings for a porch are a decoration, and not a purely utilitarian device.

What kind of devices are used?

Cold forging is characterized by various curls, bends, twisted rods, etc. Almost every type is made on a separate device - a specific machine. Their drive may be manual, or perhaps electric. For small volumes “for yourself”, manual cold forging machines are used. Although they are not particularly productive, they are much easier to manufacture. If it is necessary to put production on stream, similar devices are made, but with electric motors. In this case, there is almost no need to physically work, but the complexity of making the device increases significantly. In our material we will talk about manual machines for cold forging.

What devices are used:

For a beginning craftsman, the most relevant machine for cold forging is a snail. Only with its help you can make many interesting things - from a fence and gate to a bench and other similar products. In second place in terms of necessity is a torsion bar machine. It adds variety to the details. All the rest can be purchased or made as you improve and gain skill.

Homemade “Snails”

Essentially this is a modernized one), but these improvements make it easy to make curls from fairly thick rods (up to 10-12 mm cross-section) and repeat them with a high degree of accuracy.

These cold forging machines have several designs, but the easiest to implement is the one with a round table, which has a central leg. A lever with rollers on bearings at the end is movably attached to the leg. They make the bending process easier.

The table surface can be made of steel sheet with a thickness of 10 mm or more. For the leg, you can use any thick-walled round pipe. It is important to make the structure stable, since lateral forces will be applied, so side posts, spacers, and a stable base are needed.

Drawing of a cold forging machine “Snail”

It is easier to make a lever from a square pipe with a thick wall - at least 2-3 mm. The cross-section of the pipe is 25*40 mm or so. The lever can be attached to the leg using a bearing, or you can simply take a small piece of thick-walled pipe with a larger diameter, put it on the leg, and weld a stop strip on the bottom so that the lever does not fall down. The option with a bearing gives easier movement, but if there is lubrication, the second option also works.

The shape of the lever is also important. The lever is double, the upper part is working, the lower part is supporting. Wherever there are connections, it is advisable to add reinforcement, since the efforts are significant.

A mandrel or jig is fixed on the table - the shape along which the curls are bent. They are made in different diameters so that you can make curls of different diameters. Such mandrels can be prefabricated to form a larger number of bends. Each such sample must have rods that are installed in holes in the table. This is how this template is fixed. Also, its shape must be designed in such a way that the end of the rod is well fixed in it.

Often, mandrels are machined from a metal circle of a suitable diameter using a grinder, but there are options made of metal with steel plates welded onto it, curved accordingly.

How to make a similar machine for cold forging is in the next video. There is also a good description of how to bring the ends of the workpiece to a decent condition - ordinary raw edges look very rough. There is special equipment for processing them, but, as it turns out, you can do it without it.

Torsion bar machine

As already mentioned, these cold forging machines allow you to make longitudinal bends on the rod. This is a relatively simple design. The main task is to fix one end of the rod motionless, attach a lever to the second, with which you can twist the workpiece.

A piece of profiled pipe with a thick wall (at least 3 mm) is suitable as a base. The retainer can be welded from the same rods, leaving a square gap of the required diameter. You can use a properly sized cable clamp (available at a rigging store). Any of these stops is welded to the base.

Cable holder - excellent rod clamp

Next, you need to somehow ensure grip and torsion of the second part of the workpiece. This can be done using two bearing units. A pipe of a suitable diameter is inserted inside, and a handle is welded to it on one side - the design resembles the letter “T”. On the other hand, a clamp is made in the pipe: four holes are drilled, nuts for 12 or 14 bolts are welded into them. The result is a good clamp - the bolts are tightened after the rod has been inserted.

An even simpler machine for making torsion bars using cold forging is in the next video.

Video about homemade devices and machines for cold forging

One can only envy a person who is partial to forged products. He has everything you need to realize the most daring design projects. Devices for making cold forging elements can be purchased ready-made or made with your own hands, but in one case or another, you can be sure that working with them will be convenient and easy. In this case, great physical strength is not required; all that is needed is to press the necessary buttons and turn special levers in a timely manner.

The only thing to remember is that cold forging requires strict rules and consistency. In other words, cold forging is a step-by-step technological process in which metal blanks are deformed, depending on the desired project. To have a better understanding of this work, you need to understand what types of forging there are, what the popular forged elements are called, and what it looks like to make forged products with your own hands.

In the manufacture of metal products, 7 types of cold forging can be distinguished. These are a kind of stages of creating elements that need to be performed when working with blanks.

All work must be carried out in accordance with the requirements and rules, otherwise you should not hope to receive a beautiful forged product.

The most important stage is forging metal blanks. This is the largest, most responsible, complex and serious process, so you need to treat it very carefully. Cold forging can be of several types:

• Upsetting - it is performed under high pressure. This is necessary in order to increase the workpiece on the sides by reducing its height.
• Broaching - this stage is performed by heating a metal part and then hammering it. This is necessary in order to reduce the cross-sectional area by increasing the length of the metal rod.
• Firmware - this stage involves making holes inside the workpiece. When doing this work, you can get holes of different diameters and lengths. It can be open or closed.

Upsetting and broaching makes the structure of the metal workpiece more fragile, so further work must be carried out very carefully to prevent breakage of one or another part of the structure.

Cold forging devices

The production of forged products using the cold method involves the use of several devices or machines. As mentioned above, you can purchase them or make them yourself, but first, let's figure out what parts can be obtained using various machines.

For products made by hand, you will have to make special templates that allow you to create elements of various shapes and sizes.

You can see how to work with the snail mechanism in the following video:

• Universal mechanism - it allows you to perform several functions, cutting, riveting and forming metal products. By the way, such a device can easily be assembled with your own hands, which will significantly save your budget.
• Gnutik - this mechanism allows you to create arc deformation of a metal part. But here you need to carry out accurate calculations and measurements so as not to make a mistake with the bending radius.
• Twister - the mechanism of this plan allows you to bend the workpiece along the longitudinal axis of the finished product. The principle of operation of such a mechanism is to bend the product by clamping it on one side and the other. In this case, the rotating handle will allow you to twist the part.
• Wave - a mechanism of this type makes it possible to obtain wave-like parts from metal blanks. It is customary to produce “Boyarskie” or “Volna” gratings on such a machine.
• Stamp press - the name speaks for itself. This mechanism allows stamps with various carved elements to be applied to metal parts. Each master should have several such stamps in his arsenal, then the finished products will be more diverse. The principle of its operation is very simple; under the influence of pressure, clear imprints from the templates are left on the metal elements.
• Mechanical unit - this mechanism allows you to bend metal rods into a circle. However, the diameter of such products may vary. Therefore, such a device is indispensable in the arsenal of masters.

Do-it-yourself cold forging, step-by-step instructions and expert advice

Oddly enough, but forged products can be made even at home. Of course, they will not be as elaborate as hot-made elements, but they have no equal as a decorative design. All you need is a few tools described above, materials and most importantly, desire. The rest is compliance with technology.

The manufacturing process consists of several stages:

When starting work, check your calculations again; even a small error can spoil the appearance of the finished product, not to mention the fact that it may not fit the intended composition. Correcting and adjusting finished parts is always more difficult; it is much easier to check everything several times.

After making all the parts, you can begin to assemble the intended composition. It is better to use welding for fastening, but you should not overdo it, so as not to damage smaller elements.

The final stage will be the processing of the finished product, which involves sanding and painting the finished composition.

If you have taken up the production of cold forged elements, then you have probably studied the price market and assessed your financial capabilities. If not, then first pay attention to the cost of materials, necessary equipment and methods of processing the finished product. But in any case, a handmade product is worth all the costs. And you can reduce them using equipment if you make it yourself.

Forged products in architecture and interior design have been highly popular for a long time. Grilles for windows and fireplaces, fences or staircase balusters forged from metal always look elegant and attractive. Today, despite modern technologies in metal processing, hand-forged metal products are more popular than ever. Of course, forging metal with your own hands is not an easy task, and without proper preparation it is difficult to make a beautiful forged product. But those who want to master this ancient craft and are ready for hard physical work will have to become familiar with the types and technology of forging metal, understand the metals for forging, understand the forging process and be able to handle the blacksmith's tools.

Metal forging

Metal forging is the process of processing a metal workpiece to give it a specific shape and size. There are actually two types of forging - cold and hot. When performing hand forging of metal, it is necessary to understand both types of forging, since each has its own advantages and disadvantages.

During the hot forging process, the workpiece is heated to a certain temperature, at which the metal loses its strength and becomes ductile. High ductility is the main advantage of hot forging. It allows you to easily give a metal workpiece a certain shape and size. Hot forging also allows you to use most of the forging technologies itself, which has a beneficial effect on the variety of work options.

But heating metal also has its drawbacks. First of all, this is the need to equip a special forge and the cost of fuel for it. This can be a real problem for those who want to do hot forging of metal with their own hands in an urban environment. In addition, working with fire is quite a dangerous activity and requires increased fire safety. Another factor that can significantly influence the choice of forging type is specific knowledge of temperature conditions for forging metal.

Unlike hot forging, cold forging of metal does not require a furnace to heat the metal. The whole point of cold forging is to shape a metal workpiece by bending it, pressing it and welding it. Cold forging is somewhat simpler to perform, and it does not require much space to set up a workshop. The entire process of creating the finished product does not require the use of high temperatures, which has a very positive effect on overall safety.

But cold forging has one significant drawback. All work has to be done with certain semi-finished products without the opportunity to correct your mistake. Of course, this does not apply to all cold forging work, but in most cases, a damaged workpiece is only suitable for scrap metal or a teaching aid.

In any case, regardless of the type of forging, you will have to become quite familiar with a number of important points. Firstly, this concerns metals and temperature conditions for their melting and forging. Secondly, you need to know and understand metal forging technologies. Below we will look at what technological techniques are used for forging and how they are used in work.

Metal for forging

Hand forging metal is a rather labor-intensive and complex task that requires the use of certain metals, or rather, metals with certain characteristics. For manual cold or hot forging, the most important characteristic is the plasticity of the metal, because the simplicity and convenience of changing the shape of the workpiece depends on it. But it is worth noting that the ductility and strength of a metal are interrelated. When one of these characteristics increases, the second decreases. Therefore, it is so important to understand the characteristics of the metal and know about the composition of the workpiece.

Important! There are other equally important characteristics of metals. But since we are considering forging decorative products such as fireplace grates, balusters, fences, etc., there is no need to focus on wear resistance, red resistance, etc., as well as on alloying elements.

The following metals are used for decorative forging: copper, brass, duralumin, steel, as well as other copper, magnesium, aluminum and nickel alloys. Essentially, hand forging uses a soft, malleable metal that can be easily bent or shaped into a specific shape. In order to select the lightest malleable metal, you need to look into the Steel and Alloys Brand. In it you can find a detailed description of all metals and alloys with their characteristics and composition.

Despite the fact that the most malleable metal is copper and its alloys, craftsmen prefer to use ferrous metals for cold and hot forging. This position is due to the high cost of non-ferrous metals. After all, the price of forging metal largely depends on the cost of the original workpiece, and not everyone can afford to purchase a fence or balusters made of copper. When choosing a soft ferrous metal for forging, you need to focus on steel with a minimum carbon content, about 0.25%. And also with a minimum amount of harmful impurities, such as chromium, molybdenum, sulfur and phosphorus. In addition, structural and tool steels with a high carbon content of 0.2% to 1.35% should be avoided. Such steels are the least ductile and difficult to weld.

When choosing a particular metal, you must use a Steel and Alloy Marker. But if you don’t have access to it, you can use the tables below to determine the carbon content in steel. The determination process itself is quite simple, just bring the workpiece to a working sharpener and look at the sheaf of sparks, and then compare it with the indicators in the table.

Today, thanks to industrial metal production, there is no need to create blanks for forging yourself. Modern forges use ready-made factory products for cold forging. The most commonly used workpiece sizes are the following: 30x45 mm, 40x45 mm, 10x10 mm, 12x12 mm, rods with a section of 10 mm, 12 mm, 16 mm, 25 mm, 30 mm, 50 mm, sheet metal with a thickness of 3.5 to 6 mm, round pipes 1/2", 3/4", 1", profile pipes from 20x20 mm to 30x30 mm.

Metal forging tool

Carrying out any metal forging work is impossible without a special tool. Blacksmith equipment for hot forging is quite diverse and includes an anvil, forge, various hammers, tongs, etc. The cold forging tool is somewhat simpler and consists of several special machines. Of course, modern tools such as welding machine, grinder and grinder are used in both cold and hot forging. Knowing the purpose of a particular tool, you can perform any work correctly.

Hot Forging Tool

• Horn. There is no way to do without it in hot forging. After all, it is in it that the workpiece can be heated to a temperature of 1400 °C. For the most part, the forge is a furnace designed for high temperatures and with blowing.
• Anvil. This tool is the support on which forging is performed. The anvil itself has several types, among which the most popular is the two-horned anvil weighing 200 kg. But the weight can vary from 150 to 350 kg.

• Shperak. When performing various artistic and decorative forgings, it is shperaks that are used. They have many different types, and each master can make them for himself. A common feature of any shperak is that they are inserted into a square hole in an anvil or secured into a wooden log. The photo below shows the most common shperaks.

• Sledgehammer And Handbrake. This is the main tool of a blacksmith. The sledgehammer weighs from 4 to 8 kg and is used to deliver strong blows. Depending on the type of work and the thickness of the workpiece, the weight of the sledgehammer is selected. The handbrake weighs from 0.5 to 2 kg. Used to give the final shape to the product.
• Ticks. Mining pliers are the second most important tool. Without them, it is impossible to hold a hot workpiece for processing. There are several types of forge tongs for a specific profile and size of the workpiece. The photo below shows forge tongs of various shapes.

• Shaped hammers. When performing artistic forging, it is necessary to create curved blanks or blanks of a certain shape. For this purpose, shaped hammers are used. They can be either lower, on which processing is carried out, or upper. There are many options for shaped hammers and each master has his own. The photo below shows the main auxiliary tool.

In addition to those described above, various measuring instruments are used, such as a conventional roulette,double calipers, blacksmith's square, templates And calibers. The choice of blacksmith tools is huge, it seems difficult to list them all, so each master has his own set of only necessary and frequently used tools.

Cold forging tool

• Gnutik(photo below). This is a basic cold forging tool. As the name suggests, it allows you to bend a metal workpiece at a certain angle. In addition, the bend allows you to create arc elements of a certain radius.

• Snail. The name speaks for itself. Using a snail you can create various spiral-shaped decorative elements. The spiral is made according to a specific pattern, which, if necessary, can be changed to another one with a smaller or larger radius.

• Flashlight. This machine is designed to create a decorative element of the same name.

• Wave. Allows you to create wavy elements. When pulling a rod through this machine, the output is a beautiful sinusoidal workpiece.

• Twister. According to the principle of operation, this machine is similar to the Flashlight, but unlike it, the twister only twists the workpiece along the axis.

• Ring machine. As with all previous machines, the name speaks for itself.

In addition to those described above, there are also universal machines for riveting, cutting, crimping and adding volume. All of the machines described above can be made either independently or purchased in a store. Of course, homemade devices for cold forging will be somewhat inferior in quality to factory ones, but this is compensated by the uniqueness of the elements created with their help. For the manufacture of cold forging machines, drawings can be found both in the public domain and purchased from specialists.

Important! Cold forging machines can be manual or equipped with electric motors. Despite the presence of transmission gears, manual cold forging is quite labor-intensive and time-consuming, and to obtain large volumes of forged elements, it is better to equip the machine with an electric motor.

Separately, it is worth noting industrial machines for cold forging. Prices for similar cold forging machines are about 6,000 USD, but one such machine can perform almost all technological operations of cold forging. An example is the Master 2 machine from MAN. In the video demonstrating cold forging you can see the capabilities of this machine.

DIY metal forging

During the forging process, various forging techniques and methods are used to give the workpiece a specific shape. To perform each of them, a certain technology and tool for forging metal are used. The technology of forging metal using hot and cold methods is significantly different. As already noted, hot forging requires heating the workpiece to change its shape, while cold forging only bends the workpiece. Based on this, the main technological techniques are highlighted, knowing which you can safely take on forging metal with your own hands.

DIY cold forging of metal

Doing cold forging with your own hands is quite easy and does not require much effort. All work is divided into several stages: creating a sketch or drawing of the future product, purchasing materials and the process of metal forging itself.

The drawing can be created in a special computer program, purchased ready-made, or drawn by hand. You can find drawings for cold forging for free. To do this, just contact the craftsmen who have been forging for several years and ask for one or two drawings for training. Essentially, the drawing serves several purposes. Firstly, to know which elements will need to be produced by cold forging. Secondly, having such a project in hand, you can calculate the number and type of metal blanks, such as rods, profile pipes, etc. Thirdly, a drawing will be required to assemble all the elements into a single whole.

Separately, it is necessary to consider the cold forging elements that make up the project. Today you can find quite a lot of different forged elements, but they can all be combined into several classic groups.

• Paws. This element is the end of a metal rod rolled out in some form. This group includes the so-called Peaks. Despite the pointed end, the Peaks are made using similar technology.

• Curls. This group includes several common elements: volute, red and snail. Volute or Baranka It is a rod whose ends are bent in one direction. Chervonka- a rod whose ends are bent in different directions. This element is sometimes called the "dollar" because of its similarity to the American currency sign. Comma or Snail- a simple curl, one end of which is curved and the other straight.

• Rings. This element is created quite simply: a rod of round or square cross-section is wound onto a machine blank, the result is a spring, which is then cut into separate rings.

• Torsion. This element is quite easy to recognize by its screw twist along the axis. There are quite a few options for torsion bars, and one of the most common is an element such as a Flashlight, as well as a simple helical rod for a lattice or fence.

The entire process of manufacturing cold forging elements is based on the following generally accepted forging technologies - bending, twisting, drawing.

Hood is a technology that involves increasing the length of a workpiece by reducing its cross-section. In cold forging, one of the drawing options is used - rolling. It is with its help that various paws and peaks are created. To create the paws, a special rolling machine is used. The end of the workpiece is brought in and then the rolling mechanism is started, as a result the end is flattened with or without relief. A pressing machine is used to make peaks. The procedure is the same, but the end result is rolled out and pressed into a certain shape.

Bending. This forging technology involves bending the ends or another part of the workpiece at a certain angle. The bending itself is performed on almost all cold forging machines. The bending process can be observed during the manufacture of the workpiece on the Snail machine. First, the end of the workpiece is placed inside a special template and then bent at a certain angle. These works are performed on the Ulitka machine.

Twisting. This forging technology involves twisting the workpiece along its axis. In cold forging, this process can be observed when using a Twister machine, on which various torsion bars are created. To do this, one end of the workpiece is placed in a vice, and the other end is rotated along the axis. The Flashlight element is worth highlighting separately. For it, two or more rods are used, which are first twisted along the axis, and then compressed along the axis, as a result of which the rods diverge to the sides in a certain place.

Assembling all elements into a single structure performed by welding on a special assembly table. Today, a welding machine is publicly available and is a must-have tool for modern blacksmiths. Homemade cold forging is quite common among novice craftsmen and private entrepreneurs. It does not require special knowledge, skills or large premises for work.

DIY cold forging: video tutorial

Do-it-yourself hot metal forging

Compared to cold forging, manual hot forging is much more difficult and requires the master to have experience in handling the tool and good physical fitness. The work is carried out in several stages: creating a sketch or drawing, purchasing materials and forging.

Essentially, the difference between hot and cold forging lies in the technological processes used to process the metal. Firstly, this concerns the processing method. Secondly, almost any metal blank can be used for hot forging. But for convenience, it is customary to use ready-made rods of square and round cross-section. Thirdly, in artistic hot forging there are no frames for the elements of the finished product. Of course, you can stick to creating classic forging elements - curls, paws, peaks and others, but hot forging allows you to use the full potential of the master’s imagination, which opens up unlimited possibilities. All hot forged metal products are created using the following metal processing technologies: upsetting, drawing, bending, twisting, cutting, pattern incision and relief printing.

Draft used in metal forging to increase the cross-section of the entire workpiece or part of it. When forging, depending on the need, complete or local heating of the workpiece is carried out for upsetting.

Hood consists of increasing the length of the workpiece by reducing its cross-section. This can be done either by striking with a sledgehammer or handbrake, or by rolling out metal between the shafts on a machine. Unlike cold forging, creating peaks using drawing requires precise and careful blows.

Bending. This operation is performed to give the workpiece a curved shape. It should be taken into account that bending thick workpieces can lead to their distortion and it is necessary to perform upsetting to give the original shape. For bending workpieces, various shperaks, anvil horns, shaped hammers and jigs are used.

Twisting. This forging technology involves twisting the workpiece along its axis. As in cold forging, the workpiece is clamped in a vice and rotated. But unlike cold forging, the workpiece can be heated locally, which makes it possible to easily do local twisting.

Forging technologies such as cutting, pattern cutting And relief padding used in artistic forging using chisels. The edges of hot blanks, depending on the project, are cut and twisted using pliers. Also, while the workpiece is hot, a different pattern is printed on its surface.

When hot forging metal, it is important to know the heating temperature conditions. This will help process the metal more efficiently. Forging of ferrous metal is performed at 800 - 1250 °C. Of course, it will be impossible to measure a hot workpiece with a thermometer, and to determine the temperature you will have to rely on its color. The table below shows the temperature and color of ferrous metal workpiece.

Hot metal forging: video tutorial

Forging metal with your own hands is quite an exciting business that requires constant improvement. This applies primarily to the creation of various artistic and decorative elements. Those who have just started forging will have to work hard to ensure that their work has an ideal shape and high quality.

Let's look at the types of devices and the figures that can be obtained with their help. We have prepared drawings and thematic videos for you. We will also consider the sequence of making a cold forging machine with your own hands.

If you are just going to organize a cold forging workshop and want to avoid large expenses, then making your own machines and fixtures will help you create your own small business without excessive costs.

Basic devices and machines

Cold forging machines are mainly designed for arc or angle bending, as well as twisting. They can be manual or electrically driven.

The main types of machines and devices for cold forging:

• "Gnutik"
• "Twister"
• "Snail"
• "Globe"
• "Wave"
• "Flashlight"

Device "Gnutik"

Purchased or made independently, the “Gnutik” is a universal device that allows you to obtain an arc or angle from a rod. It consists of a base with a slider, on which a stop with an angle (90° or another as necessary) and two cylindrical fixed stops are fixed. By moving the slider and the angle stop, the rod bends at an angle. To obtain an arc, a third cylinder is provided, rotating on the side opposite to the angle stop.

The device can be made on a horizontal or vertical platform.

Axonometry of the device "Gnutik" - vertical arrangement

To scale the dimensions, here is a drawing of the bottom bar of this “Gnutik”.

Bottom bar

This device is universal. With the help of attachments you can not only bend, but also cut and punch holes. But this will be the next step.

Getting an arc on "Gnutik"

Getting an angle on "Gnutik"

This is what a homemade “Gnutik” looks like:

Twister device

“Twister” is a tool for twisting rods, mostly square, along the longitudinal axis. This simple device can be manual or electric. Operating principle: both ends of the rod are secured, then one fastening begins to rotate, twisting the metal to the required shape.

Appearance of a purchased manual “Twister”

Look at the photo of a homemade “Twister” with an electric drive, assembled using used electrical equipment:

There is a special machine for making “Lanterns” and “Cones”, but for starters you can also use a “Twister”, as shown in the video (English, but everything is very clear).

Video 1. How to make a blank for “Flashlight” on “Twister”

Device "Snail"

The Snail Tool is designed to create curls (or spirals) and “currencies” (S-shaped pieces). There are various designs.

One of the design options: 1 - snail ploughshare; 2 - base of the machine; 3 - pressure roller; 4 - lever for controlling the pressure roller; 5 - fastening the base; 6 - finger for fixing the plowshares; 7 - groove for the pressure roller; 8 - control lever axis; 9 - spring for pressing the roller; 10 - clamp for the workpiece; 11 - driving ploughshare of the snail; 12 - main axis; 13 - levers

The result should be something like this:

Another lightweight design for bending rolled products with a cross-section up to 12 mm:

1 - cochlear segment; 2 - eccentric; 3 - handle; 4 - base; 5 - guide runners; 6 - axis; 7 - slider; 8 - axle nut; 9 - roller fastening axis; 10 - roller; 11 - drive axis; 12 - eccentric guide; 13 - central segment of the cochlea; 14 - eccentric wing; 15 - main leg; 16 - connecting pin of cochlea segments; 17 - adjustment screw; 18 - connecting ear of cochlear segments

Often the “Snail” device is made on a support, especially if you need to bend thick rolled products.

Several useful videos on homemade “Snail” machines.

Option with a massive base on a support:

Video 2. Making the base

Video 3. Making a snail

Video 4. Machine operation

Tabletop option:

Video 5. Part 1

Video 5. Part 2

We will talk more about such designs below.

"Globe" device

Such a device is similar in appearance to a school protractor and is designed for making arcs with a large bending radius from a strip, square, circle or hexagon. First, one end of the workpiece is fixed with a bend, then it is bent along its entire length according to the template. The principle of operation is somewhat similar to the operation of a canning machine.

Appearance of the device

Video 6. Working at Globus

Using purely muscle power, a large diameter arc can be made on a template screwed or welded to a workbench. It is good for bending strips, thin-walled pipes, etc.

Device "Wave"

You can produce wavy products from a round, square, hexagonal cross-section or tube using the “Wave” device. The deformation of the workpiece occurs between vertical rolls by scrolling.

Wave device and resulting products

Video 7. Device in action

Flashlight device

This machine produces blanks for “Lanterns” or “Pine Cones” elements, which can consist of 4, 6, 8 or more rods. According to the principle of operation, the machine is similar to the “Twister”, but here the workpieces are bent around the guide shaft, which forms a more correct and accurate configuration of the product.

Flashlight device

Video 8. Operation of the device for making “Flashlight”

Device for cold forging of the “Clamp” element

The cold forging element “Clamp” is designed to fix other structural elements together.

The device for bending the “Clamp” can be made according to the attached drawings.

Devices for making crow's feet

“Crow's foot” - flattening with the application of beautiful notches at the ends of the workpieces to make the structure more elegant or to reduce the thickness for various joints.

The ends of the elements are decorated with “houndstooth”

This operation can be performed using a machine with a die or fixture and a heavy forging hammer on an anvil. We provide both options in the form of videos.

Video 9. Machine for making crow's feet

Video 10. Devices for forging crow's feet

Video 11. Detailed stamp making process

Below is a rolling machine to perform the same operation.

Machine for rolling "crow's feet" (the distance between the rollers is adjustable). Materials for a rolling machine: gears and shafts - spare parts from a used combine

Operating principle

Making a "Snail" with a drive

The electrically driven "snail" facilitates the production of curls and "currencies". This is especially valuable when the work is not “for the soul”, but for the production of a large number of similar products on stream when working to order.

Below are the stages of assembling a machine for bending a rod with a maximum cross-section of 10x10 mm. The 0.5 kW/1000 rpm engine operates at the limit of its capabilities. Performs 6 shaft revolutions per minute. The snail segments are machined from a round blank St.45 without heat treatment, 25 mm high and 20 mm thick. The snail is mounted on a shaft on bearings from the rear wheel of a motorcycle - 7204. The support roller is firmly fixed in the groove. Pulleys are installed between the engine and the gearbox.

Below are drawings of the cochlea segments.

Snail element 1

Snail element 2

Snail element 3

Snail centerpiece

For a more massive rod (from 12 mm), the motor power should be more than a kilowatt. The photographs below show a machine with a 2.2 kW, 1000 rpm motor, giving a shaft output of about 10 rpm. This is already a machine for professional use. A used gearbox was used, the matrix was cut from a workpiece 30 mm thick - the most labor-intensive process.

For cold forging you will also need an anvil and a hammer. A forge is not needed, it is only required for hot forging.

Advice! Before starting work, draw a life-size sketch of the future structure. This will help you adjust the elements and not get confused during assembly.

Making bends for cold forging is structurally quite simple and can easily be made independently. The following is a step-by-step guide.

Cold plastic deformation of metals and alloys is a convenient household method for obtaining spatial structures and profiles. After all, bending as a forming process is not an energy-intensive operation and, therefore, does not require drive equipment. A manual bending machine for bending strips and rods (colloquially called a do-it-yourself cold forging bender) is structurally simple and can easily be made independently.

Bending of ductile metals in a cold state can be done in three main ways (schemes are shown in Fig. 1.a, 1.b):

1. Free, determined only by the stroke of the tool.
2. Along the stops, both in the horizontal and vertical directions.
3. Rotating rollers.

The latter method is used only when bending large sheets of metal and is used very rarely in everyday practice. In addition, the construction of such a machine, even a simple one, will require a lot of free space in the home workshop.

Free bending (see Fig. 1.a) is used more often. If you have a forging anvil or a vice, there is no need for special equipment to implement it: it is enough to install a strip or rod in the gap between the jaws and successive blows of the hammer to obtain the required bending angle. However, this bending technology is more applicable for rough bending of metal, since even on steel workpieces, the shock application of a load leaves undesirable marks on the surface of the workpiece - dents or gouges. In addition, the fixed radius of transition from a vertically located anvil groove or gap between the jaws to the main working plane of the tool eliminates the adjustment of the bending radius, which is often necessary. Another disadvantage of free bending is that it does not take into account the elastic properties of the workpiece metal. We are talking about the springback angle - the elastic aftereffect of the material, which is expressed in a spontaneous decrease in the initially specified bending angle. In this case, the spring radius is a parameter that depends on the material of the workpiece being bent. Therefore, it must be taken into account even before bending begins. Manual finishing of the final angle “by eye” does not contribute to the quality of the finished product, and complicates the subsequent assembly of a structure whose design contains bent elements.

Stop bending is the most technologically advanced method of cold bending of workpieces of relatively small width. The principle of such bending is that the original strip or rod of metal is placed in a special device, where there are clamps for the parallelism of the workpiece, as well as travel limiters for the bending tool. Since such a tool can be replaceable, and its stroke can be relatively easily adjusted, this method of cold bending at home is the most appropriate. The scheme of the method is shown in Fig. 1.b.

Thus, for high-quality cold bending of workpieces, you will need a simple device called a cold forging bender. It is quite compact and can be installed on any bench.

Diagram of the bender and the sequence of work on it

Let's look at the design of the device using the example shown in Fig. 2. The simplest device for cold forging consists of

The base, fixed on the table/workbench, touches the moving leash, which performs the bending;

A lever that moves the leash;

Limba with indicator of lever rotation angles;

Replaceable rollers with different bending angles;

Adjustable spacers and clamping jaws that fix the part in a certain position.

The sequence of manufacturing bending for cold forging is as follows. The device is attached to the table/workbench or installed on it. For bending metals that require significant force, it is better to mount the device permanently, for which holes are provided in the support angle. A slider is placed in a rectangular steel frame, the internal surfaces of which must be ground. The following parts are installed on the upper plane of the slider:

1. A replaceable punch, on the working surface of which there are all the most commonly used options for bending workpieces: radius, arc, straight bend, etc.
2. A lever with which you can move the slider back and forth.
3. Slider travel limiters in the device frame.

Having installed the replacement tool, bolt the frame to the supporting surface of the bend, after which two rollers are installed on the upper plane. It is better if the rollers have the ability to move longitudinally along the frame: this will allow bending of workpieces of various thicknesses or diameters. For this purpose, the grooves for fastening the rollers are made oval, taking into account a certain range of changes in the thickness of the workpiece. The axes of the rollers must allow free rotation: this will reduce the bending force and eliminate clamping of the rollers when bending products made of stronger metals.

To increase the accuracy of bending in the manufacture of forging tools, a dial with divisions graduated in the bending angles (taking into account the springing of the metal) is often installed on the support angle.

Having secured the workpiece, gradually move the lever until it approaches the workpiece, then adjust its location between the rollers and the slider and bend it to obtain the required angle. To facilitate the process of returning the slider to its original position, it can be equipped with a return spring. Its force is selected taking into account 20-25% of the bending force. This force can be determined either using an existing dynamometer or using an approximate relationship:

P = 0.25bSσ in, where:

b - strip width (or rod diameter);

S is the thickness of the material being bent;

σ in - limit of tensile strength of the workpiece material (see table):

Thus, the functionality of the bend will be determined by the presence of replaceable punches, the ability to adjust the position of the workpiece in front of the bend, as well as the dimensional scale that sets the bending angle.

The quality of bending on a homemade bending machine

This factor is determined by:

• Perhaps a more accurate account of springing. It is believed that highly plastic metals and alloys (including AD class aluminum, M0 and M1 copper, as well as low-carbon steel grades) have a springback coefficient in the range of 4-8%, and steels with a higher carbon percentage (over 0.20 -0.25%), and most brasses are distinguished by springiness of up to 10-15%;
• The initial hardness of the workpiece material. Annealed metal will practically not spring back, while steel/alloy after hardening or pre-deformation (straightening, temper training, drawing, etc.) can increase its elastic properties by 20-40%;
• The quality of cleaning the workpiece surface from rust, scale and other surface contaminants.

If tempering the workpiece is not possible, then bending is performed at a larger angle, thereby taking into account the elastic characteristics of the metal.

The preliminary adjustment of the bend is also important, for example, the absence of play during movement of the lever, the reliability of installation and fixation of the replaceable punch, the roughness of the roller material.

If you need to get more accurate information about the design of the device or in order to make it yourself, you can use the drawing of a device designed for bending a rod (see Fig. 3).

Alteration of the given device for bending strips and sheet blanks is not difficult: it is enough to increase the height of the rollers 14 and increase the length of the rotary lever 2.

A video of the construction of a homemade flex can be seen here:

The production of this device for cold forging of ductile metals and alloys allows you to increase the range of independently manufactured products, improve their quality and reduce the labor intensity of the work.

The private sector of any city is characterized by a variety of elegant metal products. These are metal patterned gates, beautiful benches, unusual railings and other decorative decorations. Forged products add a certain aesthetics to the appearance of the site and the house. Many people believe that using forged metal fixtures is very expensive. But this is not always the case.

Such products are made using the cold forging method. If you buy them in a store, then, of course, you can shell out a considerable amount. Therefore, experienced craftsmen make a cold forging machine with their own hands. Moreover, if a person likes to do something on his own, then this device will be useful on the farm.

And also, by doing artistic forging, you can make good money. After all, production waste and initial setup costs are small. Therefore, the business of a blacksmith engaged in cold forging can quickly go uphill. Forging may be carried out in a garage or shed. Accordingly, renting premises is not required.

Cold forging concept

The cold forging procedure differs from the hot forging process in the simplicity and safety of the process. The metal is not exposed to high temperatures. Compared to stamping, this process involves almost complete elimination of metal flow. If we consider cold forging, from the point of view of the forging process itself, then this is the process of riveting elements using impact force.

As a result, the strength of the outer layer increases, and the inner part imparts overall toughness and fracture strength. Of course, the forging procedure itself is very lengthy. Therefore, it is worth talking in more detail about a certain branch of cold forging called artistic forging.

It is also essentially cold forging, and henceforth the term “cold forging” will be used. It consists of various bending of metal sources. The structure of the metal base does not change. Physical and mechanical properties also do not change.

Cold forging involves the formation of a variety of twisted elements and bends. Such patterned elements are made on a specific installation. Moreover, the drive of these installations is divided into manual and electric. For large volumes of work, it is preferable to use machines with an electric drive to increase the speed of execution.

Manual machines can be used to produce the following decorative items:

1. Designs for windows.
2. Components for making railings.
3. Chairs, benches.
4. Furniture legs.
5. Decorative items for gates and wickets.
6. Parts for fireplaces.

As for the source material used for forging, different types are used: aluminum, copper. You can also use alloys - duralumin, steel, brass, magnesium alloy, nickel alloy.

Advantages of the method

When compared with other methods of producing metal products, cold forging has a number of advantages. These include:

• Heating of the metal is not necessary, which simplifies the manufacturing process due to the absence of a furnace and maintaining a certain temperature.
• Process safety.
• Ease of production of cold forging installations.
• The ability to correct a manufactured product due to its mechanical properties.
• The ability to manufacture equipment for the production of identical products with standard steps.
• Saving time and money when performing work.

The presence of these advantages makes cold forging technology widespread.

Equipment types

There are many types of cold forging machines. The following categories are established:

1. Gnutik - helps to obtain metal arcs that bend at a precise angle.
2. Snail - a device that allows you to form a spiral from rods.
3. Twister – allows you to obtain a more complex spiral formation along the axis.
4. The ring is a bending mechanism for making ring and oval shapes.
5. Wave - the installation is intended for bending rods into a wave.
6. Press - allows you to carry out the process of flattening an object.
7. The hammer and the anvil are tools that help correct mistakes.

Making a cold forging machine for each of the listed categories with your own hands is quite easy. Only some tools and metal material are required. Moreover, almost no money is required.

Manufacturing a mechanism for cold forging

A universal cold forging machine is almost impossible to make with your own hands. It is necessary to make a separate form of the mechanism for releasing objects.

When manufacturing the installation, it is necessary to select the following materials:

• metal sheet (preferred thickness 4-5 mm);
• reinforcing bars, profile pipes;
• bed for stability of the device for cold forging;
• electric motor and gearbox in the case of a machine with a drive.

Of course, making fixtures cannot be done without tools. It is advisable to have an angle grinder or a metal file, a welding machine, an emery stone or paper, a vice and pliers, as well as a pencil, tape measure and paper.

The easiest way for a novice craftsman is to make a homemade machine for cold forging the shape of a snail. Thanks to it, various forms of metal rods for gates and fences are produced. The torsion bar type of installation is also popular. Other forms of machines can be made after gaining experience with simple setups.

Let us examine in detail the production of the “snail”. This device helps to obtain a variety of configurations of spirals, curls, and rings. The simple design of this equipment allows for convenient operation and easy access to the workpiece. The process can be carried out if:

1. Metal rods.
2. Steel leaves and stripes.
3. Profile pipes.
4. Welding machine.
5. Angle grinder and pliers.

To make homemade machines used during cold forging, it is advisable to draw a diagram or sketch of the future device. Initially, graph paper is selected for drawing the drawing.

The following stages of work:

• An image of a spiral with three turns is applied to a sheet of paper. The dimensions must correspond to the diameter of the reinforced rod with the condition that it fits into the thread. It is best to use the 10mm size. And also the lines should be drawn based on the thickness of the steel, and the distance inside the spiral should be 12-13 mm.
• Next, you need to use a steel grinder to make a circle of the required diameter. If you want to use removable circles, you should take a non-thin source material (4-5 mm thick) for easier replacement.
• Making a durable frame that is stable on the floor surface. You can, in general, concrete the legs for a more durable structure. An important condition is that the frame circumference must be larger than the size of the working circle.
• A metal rod is welded to the frame, onto which a bearing device is mounted. Manual control involves welding the circle to the frame. In this situation, metal bending occurs much easier than during the rotation process.
• We fix the snail on the circle. The snail is divided into three parts. The tail part has a height of 1 cm based on the thickness of the rods. 1 cm is added to the next part of the spiral. This means that the second turn will be 2 cm, and the third - 3 cm. When obtaining more turns, the details of the spiral should be increased.
• If it is necessary to make replacement circles, then the replacement parts are welded to the circle according to the sketch.
• If you have a replacement volute, you need to measure the position of each type and weld the studs to each element. In this case, a gap is made in the circle for a certain part.
• To get a forged product, you need to start with the central coil. It is necessary to firmly secure the rod using a vice or other tool.
• At the end you need to make a lever from two profile pipes (diameter 15-20 mm). They are welded with jumpers, the length of which is the distance from the center of the bearing to the top point of the circle plus 5 cm. Next, it is welded to the bearing part. A rod with a length corresponding to the length of the tallest part of the snail is welded to the lower part of the lever, which is the cut round part. A bending barrel is welded perpendicular to the area of ​​the circle.

Thus, the homemade machine is ready. You can begin producing the necessary elements. To do this, the rod is fixed, and then the barrel rests on it, and the bending process begins.

Video: DIY cold forging machine.

Torsion bar machine

Another popular device, such as a do-it-yourself cold forging machine, is a torsion bar. It is used for forging snake-shaped spirals. To make the installation you will need:

1. Sheet of steel.
2. I-beam.
3. Vise.
4. Parts for fastening.
5. Angle grinder.
6. Welding.
7. Gearbox and electric motor.

To make this installation yourself, you need to go through certain steps:

• First you need a beam, a sheet of steel is welded to one part of it.
• Next, a vice is welded to the steel, which then needs to be secured with bolts and nuts.
• Plates are attached to the vice to reduce the risk of the object jumping out when tensioned.
• On the other part of the beam, rollers are installed to secure the platform. Moreover, the device with rollers must be at the same height as the design of the vice.
• A vice with movable parts is placed on the completed installation.
• A steel handle is attached to perform rotation. As a result, the workpiece will bend.
• Next, the electric motor is connected, and the entire system is covered with a steel casing.

Thus, the structure made is a machine with a movable and fixed block. This method of manufacturing a machine is quite simple, but requires some effort in operation.

Many people who are interested in metal decorative items are faced with the question of how to make a cold forging machine with their own hands. Having studied this issue in detail, you can, without experience and a workshop, produce various metal products for landscape purposes.

The machine is quite simple to make using tools and materials that almost everyone has. Moreover, your equipment can be adapted to any type of product.