How many days after planting do potatoes sprout and what to do if they don’t sprout? Why do potatoes sprout poorly? How do potatoes sprout?

How many days after planting do potatoes sprout and what to do if they don’t sprout?  Why do potatoes sprout poorly? How do potatoes sprout?
How many days after planting do potatoes sprout and what to do if they don’t sprout? Why do potatoes sprout poorly? How do potatoes sprout?

Last April, a neighbor in his dacha complained that his potatoes were having trouble sprouting. When I asked when he planted potatoes, he replied that in the first ten days of April.

This is unjustified for our region. early boarding, which in his case led to sparse seedlings.

Tubers placed in cold - no higher than +10 degrees - and too wet soil are susceptible to non-infectious growth. Numerous short stolons with tiny nodules are formed on them. This “harvest” is not suitable for long-term storage, and the taste of such potatoes frankly leaves much to be desired...

The consistency of potato seedlings also depends on other factors: on the site, on size and quality seed material.

Potatoes planted on scant or heavy soils in dry weather, which then gives way to heavy rains.

Another reason for poor potato germination is fungal disease, which more often affects tubers planted in unheated soil. In such conditions, the fungus Rhizostnia solani multiplies intensively and forms tiny - up to two centimeters - brown or black growths on the surface of the mother tubers, which look like lumps of dirt.

With limited damage by rhizoctonia, weak potato shoots still make their way to the surface of the bed. But in the event of mass infection, all the sprouts present at the time of planting die off, and seedlings are not formed. Over time, fresh shoots develop from dormant buds, and as a result, seedlings are greatly delayed. Total stems and the final yield are sharply reduced.

If you have already encountered this terrible disease in a potato field, I recommend paying attention to potato varieties that are resistant to it: Agria, Gatchinsky, Istra, Effect, Aspiya, Golubizna, Loshchitsky.

Plant the tubers in heated, pre-formed ridges with a height of 12 to 14 centimeters and a depth of no more than 5-7 centimeters.

At the end summer season in the place where you plan to plant potatoes, sow white mustard, and after a month and a half, plow the greens into the soil.

A unique green manure plant that has a beneficial effect on the soil:

  1. Enriches the soil on the site with easily digestible organic matter. In record time, it forms up to a kilogram of green mass per square meter landing
  2. Mustard roots penetrate the soil to a considerable depth, thereby improving its air and water permeability.
  3. The aboveground and underground parts of the plant contain essential oil, which disinfects the soil and repels pests. As a result, potato bushes are less likely to suffer from, and the tubers are not spoiled by scab and various rots. Systematic sowing of mustard on a potato plantation allows it to be completely eliminated over time.
  4. Mustard suppresses the growth of perennial and annual weeds.

So how to achieve friendly and fast shoots potatoes? That's right - timely landing!

But if you grow this vegetable on, the planting date can be moved 1.5-2 weeks earlier. Accordingly, you will dig your first young potatoes not at the beginning of July, but much earlier.

But we all know how much a kilogram of potatoes costs in mid-June...

Video about potato diseases and the reasons for poor germination of tubers:

Relatively unpretentious potatoes are grown everywhere. Unlike most garden crops, the process of development of a potato bush is invisible until seedlings appear. All the rules are followed, the tubers are planted on time, and the seedlings are not in a hurry.

Potato sprouts do not emerge quickly; first, root system bush, only after that green shoots begin to break through to the surface of the bed.

After planting, a potato bush begins to form from seedlings or dormant eyes. How soon the seedlings appear depends on many reasons; experienced summer residents will confirm that the timing of the emergence of seedlings is most influenced by 2 factors:

  1. Correct assessment of the weather situation and choice of timing for planting potatoes.
  2. Use of high-quality seed material and additional pre-planting preparation of seed tubers.

Hoping for warm weather and planting potatoes “early and quickly” straight from the cellar - the right way get weak late shoots with “bald spots” and a very dubious return of tubers from the garden in the fall.

How soon do potatoes sprout after planting?

You can wait a very long time for the first shoots in a potato bed or not at all. Region of residence, characteristics of the variety, compliance with the rules of agricultural technology, experience of the summer resident - many factors determine the duration of this time.

Some vegetable growers mistakenly believe that the onset of stable warmth after winter is the right time to plant potatoes. However, the sun's rays warm the soil after a certain time:

  • in the southern regions - from 4 to 5 weeks;
  • in the northern regions - 2 months or more.

For potato tubers to begin to germinate, the soil temperature must be at least 10°C. From a botanical point of view, a potato tuber is a modified plant stem. In cold soil, the circulation of juices slows down, negative temperatures lead to rot.

Hint: if planting time is running out, and the soil has not yet warmed up to the required 10°C, holes or furrows for tubers should be made 5-6 cm deep. After the emergence of seedlings, the first hilling compensates for shallow planting.

In addition to temperature, air humidity also influences the time it takes for a bed to be ready for planting. After winter, the soil is oversaturated with water - until the excess moisture evaporates or goes deeper, potatoes cannot be planted.

How quickly the water drains depends on the presence of sand or clay in the soil.

  1. Sandy soils dry out faster. Water does not linger - it erodes or goes deeper.
  2. Fertile loams retain moisture well. Such a bed requires additional time: approximately 1 week compared to sandy soils.

A heated bed with well-structured soil is covered with friendly shoots in 20-25 days.

In addition to objective weather factors, the timing of emergence of seedlings is influenced by preliminary preparation tubers. Experienced summer resident will take care of vernalization of the seed: warming and germination of tubers will be carried out in accordance with the growing season of a particular variety.

  1. Early potato varieties “awaken” faster and form sprouts within 15-20 days.
  2. Potato varieties late date maturation have a slightly slower metabolism and form shoots of 1-2 cm 20-25 days after the start of vernalization.

In the process of germinating tubers, you should focus only on the condition of the sprouts; it is undesirable to allow them to grow more than 4-5 cm. During planting, fragile long sprouts break and form roots worse.

The average time for emergence of seedlings after planting is calculated:

  • southern regions - 10-15 days;
  • middle latitudes - 2-3 weeks;
  • northwestern region - 3-4 weeks.

Directly from the cellar or vernalized - any potato germinates within the period of 3-4 weeks prescribed by nature. During germination, the sprouts feed on the reserves of the mother tuber; due to this method of agricultural technology, the period of emergence of seedlings is shifted.

An important trend has been noted - the warmer the bed, the faster the seedlings appear. Warming the soil to 18°C ​​reduces the duration of seedling emergence by 1 week. Pre-germination of tubers gives approximately the same effect - minus 6-10 days compared to unsprouted potatoes.

If seedlings have not appeared within 4-5 weeks, urgent measures must be taken.

Technology for planting potatoes in open ground and its impact on the timing of emergence

Depending on climatic and soil conditions, potatoes personal plots open ground grow different ways: from traditional, “grandfather’s”, to special ones - for straw, according to Mittleider and others.

The traditional method is “under the shovel”

Planting potatoes with whole or cut tubers to a depth of 10-12 cm in holes has been practiced by summer residents to the point of automaticity: one digs, the other throws. A simple method proven by generations of experience gives excellent results with careful care and favorable weather conditions.

The start of planting work can be hampered by a prolonged spring - cold and damp, when the soil does not have time to warm up and ripen, this delays the time of planting.

If the tubers are set for vernalization, the sprouts overgrow, which leads to a deterioration in germination and productivity of the bed as a whole.

Planting tubers without prior germination (directly from the cellar) delays the emergence of seedlings by up to 4 weeks.

"Dutch" technology

It turned out that the progressive “Dutch” method of planting in ridges had long been used, without knowing it, by the residents northern regions. The soil raised to the “ridge” warms up well even under the mild northern sun. Wide row spacing and big square the lateral surface of the “ridge” create favorable conditions for temperature and ventilation of the soil, which allows the use of more early dates planting and obtaining seedlings even for 1-2 weeks.

Compared to a conventional garden bed, the use of " Dutch technology» not only shifts the timing, but also gives a significant increase in the harvest due to more full use natural resources- light, heat, water.

A method for the lazy - under straw

The currently popular method of growing tubers under straw has many advantages, the main ones:

  • labor costs are kept to a minimum - there is no need to dig, loosen, or hill;
  • no weeding is needed - weeds do not grow through the mulch layer;
  • Tubers can be selected as they grow without damaging the roots of the plant.

Spread the tubers on the garden bed and sprinkle with a layer of straw - anyone can do this. For everything to be successful, the following conditions must be met:

  • warmed up wet soil;
  • vernalized potatoes;
  • straw or mown grass, layer thickness - at least 10 cm.

Compliance with the first point is mandatory. Tubers may not germinate at all, because thick layer mulch serves as a thermal insulator - protects the soil from heating.

The time for “planting” potatoes under straw is delayed by 1-2 weeks compared to traditional way“under the shovel” plantings. Green potato leaves on a straw bed and a regular bed will appear at the same time. The difference in planting time will not be noticeable, since a favorable microclimate is created under the mulch layer.

Trying new potatoes as soon as possible is the understandable desire of every summer resident. It is quite possible to get early shoots, and therefore an early harvest of tubers in a small garden bed.

The easiest way is to cover the bed with film or agrofibre immediately after planting. You can use any film - black or transparent. A greenhouse effect is created under the film, the bed quickly heats up, and the shelter does not allow the soil to cool down overnight. How long it takes for seedlings to appear depends on the following factors: within 1 week (vernalized tubers) or 2 weeks (without germination).

For this purpose, it is convenient to plant a separate double row and install a simple shelter on arches above it. In greenhouse conditions, potatoes can grow until summer weather sets in.

Uneven shoots - what is the reason?

“Bald spots” in a potato bed can most often be observed after planting non-vernalized tubers. Bought at the market from an “unidentified person”, donated by “ good neighbors", potatoes brought from a chain store may not sprout for various reasons:

  • illness;
  • eyes damaged by frost due to improper storage;
  • To preserve the goods, the trading network treats vegetables with special reagents that inhibit the germination process;
  • seed material is collected according to the principle “from one source to another” - tubers different varieties, unequal in size;
  • planting was carried out at different depths.

The conclusions are obvious - seed tubers should be purchased only from a trusted seller, stored in proper conditions and agricultural practices should be followed.

Potatoes did not rise - error analysis

Mistakes made during landing can lead to problems.

Poor quality planting material

If there is no confidence in the quality of the seed tubers, planting should be carried out only after germination. If the eyes do not “wake up” within 1 week of vernalization, there is a high probability that it is useless to expect sprouts. It is urgent to look for a replacement: healthy tubers without damage from frost or disease.

Boarding too early

Sprouted potatoes are difficult to tolerate low temperatures. Sprouts rot under the influence of frost, attracting underground living creatures - mole crickets, larvae chafer and others.

Insects after hibernation They are unusually voracious and capable of destroying the entire plantation even before germination.

Planting in cold soil inhibits the movement of juices and the development of sprouts. Temperatures up to 10°C are not conducive to the development of potato bushes, but are quite favorable for colonies of fungi, viruses and microorganisms. A tuber affected by disease stops growing or grows weak.

In any case, even when the reason for the “non-germination” is beyond doubt, you should dig up the nest and make sure your guesses are correct or incorrect in order to draw conclusions for the future.

100% potato germination is real

Experienced summer residents know how to achieve maximum germination of planted tubers and thereby increase the productivity of the potato bed.

  1. Compliance with the rules of crop rotation reduces the risk of potato diseases at the stage of bush formation.
  2. Preparing the bed in the fall guarantees structured, nutritious soil by the time the tubers are planted.
  3. Seed material must be germinated.
  4. During vernalization, it is useful to treat tubers with a solution of complex fertilizers by spraying.
  5. On the eve of planting, it is advisable to treat the tubers with a growth stimulator. This speeds up metabolism and increases productivity.
  6. A cut tuber sprouts much faster. The amount of seed increases. A cut tuber produces a stress hormone, which triggers the mechanism of root formation and regeneration.

With minimal financial investments and time-consuming, these recommendations will help achieve 100% germination of potatoes in the garden.

Conclusion

Relatively unpretentious culture in the bush phase, potatoes are very sensitive to external conditions at the beginning, when a new plant is formed from the awakened eye. The problem of germination of planted tubers will not be a concern if you follow all the rules for the procurement of seed material, pre-planting preparation and observe the planting deadlines. Small tricks will help reduce the waiting period for seedlings by a few more days.

Experts identify several reasons why potatoes may not grow well and what to do about it; they offer ways to solve the problems. Unfavorable factors may be weather, incorrectly selected variety, inappropriate soil composition. Vegetable growers often make mistakes in caring for vegetables. To correct the situation, you need to identify the cause in time and begin the fight to eliminate it.

There are several reasons why potatoes do not grow after planting, so knowing in advance unfavorable factors, you can prevent the development of problems:

  • Potato varieties are divided into three large groups according to the timing of root crop ripening: early, mid-ripening and late-ripening. Agronomists recommend planting varieties of different time groups.
  • You can’t plant early and early ones at the same time. late varieties potatoes.
  • Poor quality planting material.
  • Non-compliance with crop rotation, lack timely fertilizing, improperly prepared land plot.
  • Planting too deep can result in seedlings not appearing at all. The seed placement depth is approximately 8 cm.

Weather conditions play an important role. Heavy rains, return of frosts, low temperature air or, conversely, hot days also cause poor plant development. Diseases and pests significantly reduce the quality and quantity of the crop.

Varieties

So that the roots grow large sizes and with high taste qualities, you need to choose the right variety. You need to take into account the climate, soil composition, and purpose of the crop.

According to the timing of crop ripening, they are distinguished:

  • super early varieties, which allow you to harvest after 40–45 days, so you can get two harvests per season;
  • at early potatoes fruit ripening limits are 50–60 days;
  • mid-early group vegetable crop begins to ripen after 80 days;
  • Root crops of mid-late varieties ripen after planting in 95–100 days;
  • The late potato harvest can be harvested in 110–120 days.

Depending on the potato variety, the pulp can be white, yellow, purple, or red. The shape of potatoes can be round, oblong, cylindrical. In addition to these indicators, attention is paid to the main characteristics of the variety: yield, resistance to cold and drought, resistance to diseases and pests.

No suitable variety

Among large quantity varieties there will be a suitable variety that will adapt to climatic features, soil composition, individual preferences.

For some, yield is extremely important, for others it is necessary for the potatoes to be boiled during cooking. You can find varieties that will feel great in sandy and clay soils, will tolerate drought and cold well.

Poor quality seeds for planting

Planting material is selected and carefully examined. Medium-sized potatoes (weight 80 g), without damage, stains or rot, are suitable for planting. Damaged seeds should not be left for propagation, otherwise there will be poor germination, low yield and a high risk of disease development.

The selected planting material is stored in a separate container. The room should be cool, about +2 degrees.

During everything growing season useful to carry out root and foliar feeding. The main components of solutions can be bird droppings, cow dung, urea, herbs.

Deep landing

If potatoes are planted too deeply, seedlings will appear slowly and later than usual. This happens due to poor supply of heat and oxygen from the surface of the earth. The sprouts will be weak and the yield will decrease.

You can plant potatoes in a hole with a depth of 5 to 11 cm. The lighter the soil, the deeper the seeding depth. The optimal depth of the hole is considered to be 8 cm. At the same time, it is useful to fertilize the soil. During planting, a mixture of humus is placed in each hole, wood ash and superphosphate.

Inappropriate landing method

There are many ways to plant potatoes. When choosing, you first need to consider the composition of the soil. The most popular planting method is considered smooth way. In previously prepared furrows, depressions are made into which planting material is placed and covered with earth.

Others by known methods vegetable plantings are as follows.

  • If the soil is light or sandy, the trench option is suitable. Dig trenches 13 cm deep at a distance of 73 cm. In the fall, rotted manure, sawdust or straw are placed in the prepared trenches. Over the winter they will decompose and warm the soil. In spring, potatoes are placed in trenches at intervals of 40 cm. With this method, planting can be started two weeks earlier.
  • If the soil is heavy and wet, then a ridge planting method would be ideal. The height of the embankment can be more than 15 cm.

During the entire growing season, it is recommended to carry out three waterings: two weeks after planting, during flowering and three weeks before harvesting. Important points crop care is hilling and weeding. Hilling is carried out immediately after the first shoots appear, and a second time before flowering begins.

Height

Potatoes have five growth periods:

  1. Germination of tubers and appearance of first shoots.
  2. The appearance of a green stem with the first leaves.
  3. The formation of buds and the beginning of the flowering period.
  4. Active flowering and cessation of tops growth.
  5. Drying of the tops and final formation of root crops.

At any of these stages, potato growth may stop. The reason becomes improper care, return of frost, rainy or dry weather, pest invasion, infection.

How long does it take for potatoes to sprout?

The first young seedlings provided warm weather begin to appear after 23 days. If the weather long time stays at + 20 degrees, then the first shoots appear already on the 16th day. The time of emergence of seedlings is delayed due to cold weather.

It is necessary to plant potatoes in warm soil (+10 degrees) and shallowly, in upper layer soil, it is best to pre-germinate the planting material.

Shoots may appear unevenly due to different depths of seed placement, various sizes tubers, when choosing potato varieties with different terms maturation.

Climate and planting dates

The time for planting potatoes is determined by certain criteria: air temperature, soil moisture level (too wet soil leads to rotting of the planting material rather than germination), and the selected variety.

Sometimes potato bushes do not develop due to non-compliance with planting dates. Most often, planting work begins in early May, but it is better to focus on weather conditions.

The soil should warm up to 8–10 degrees to a depth of 10 cm. By this time, the risk of frost returning is minimal. In regions with different climatic conditions The soil does not warm up at the same time.

Why did potatoes stop growing?

The growth of tubers and above-ground parts of a vegetable crop may stop due to bad weather, poor care, lack of nutritional components, as well as as a result of pest attacks. Stops the growth of potatoes hot weather, in the absence of regular watering.

What to do if potatoes don't sprout?

If potato seedlings have not appeared by the expected, calculated date, then measures need to be taken:

  • First of all, make sure that the potatoes are not planted too deep. All you have to do is dig up a few tubers and take a look. If this is the case, then germination will take 7–10 days.
  • If the weather is warm and dry, watering will help speed up seed germination.
  • It is worse if the sprouts do not appear due to rotting tubers or damage by pests. In this case, all planting material is dug up and burned, and the land area must be treated with fungicides.

In the infected area, it is better to plant another crop that is immune to potato diseases. In another area, you can plant early varieties of potatoes and have time to reap a rich harvest.

Harvest

Growing potatoes is not difficult, but some unfavourable conditions can reduce yield:

  • too cold or hot weather;
  • dense planting;
  • lack of moisture, especially during flowering;
  • lack of air in the soil;
  • excess or lack of nutritional components;
  • lack of light.

The yield may decrease, and the tubers lose their taste and external qualities or are not fully formed.

A small potato harvest can occur due to many unfavorable factors:

  • A common cause is fungal disease- late blight. When bushes are damaged, the tubers do not rot, but only stop growing.
  • An excess of nitrogen leads to active development of green mass. All nutritional components go up, root crops develop poorly.
  • High air temperature. If the heat occurs during a period of active growth of root crops, then their growth stops. Even if the temperature drops soon, the tubers will be small.
  • Lack of moisture also causes small harvests.

Regular watering in hot weather, compliance with the dosage when applying fertilizers, preventive treatments against diseases and pests will help to reap a large and tasty harvest.

Rotten fruit

The potato crop may rot. The cause is wet, rainy weather, too densely planted bushes, fungal or bacterial infections.

If dry and yellow tops appear among the green potato bushes, some kind of disease is most likely developing. Rotting of potatoes can be caused by: late blight, fusarium, blackleg, ring rot. Diseased bushes are dug up and burned.

Another reason for tuber rotting during growth is an excess of nitrogen in the soil. Voids form inside the tubers, and the pulp begins to rot. Next year you need to reduce the application of nitrogen and increase potassium.

Few ovaries and fruits

Few ovaries and fruits are formed due to hot weather and dry air. In this case, the ovaries fall off. The bushes look lethargic, emaciated, there are few tubers and they are small. In this case, you need to water the area with water and treat it with Zircon.

If the stem is straight, the leaves are green, the bush overall looks healthy, and there are no ovaries, then this will not affect the quality and quantity of the harvest. You also need to know that not all varieties are able to bloom.

Diseases and pests

Diseases and pests can significantly worsen the condition of the bushes and reduce yields. The vegetable slows down in growth and stops developing. The disease can be provoked by viruses, bacteria and fungi that penetrate the plant through leaves, roots, and damage.

Fungal diseases of potatoes

Fungal spores are spread by wind, insects, and water. Under favorable conditions (cold weather and high humidity), fungi begin to actively multiply, spreading over large areas.

Viral diseases of potatoes

The most common viral disease is mosaic, which has three types. The reason is a decrease in plant immunity due to improper watering, lack of nutrients in the soil, damage to bushes by pests.

The leaves of the plant curl, change color, and light, brown spots appear. Over time, the stem becomes damaged, and the leaves become completely yellow, dry and begin to fall off.

Bacterial diseases of potatoes

A bacterial infection may appear throughout the growing season. Most often, the source of infection is seed material. Particularly dangerous are rots that affect tubers, making them unfit for food.

Late blight of potatoes

The first sign of late blight is the appearance of brown spots on the top of the leaves. Inner half The leaf plate is covered with a white coating. If you do not start treatment, then within a month all potato plantings will be infected with the disease. The leaves become Brown, tubers are also affected. Over time, the tops become thinner, rot, wither and dry out. For a month, every week it is recommended to treat the bushes with Bordeaux mixture.

Dry rot of potatoes

Dry rot or fusarium refers to a fungal disease that affects the above-ground part of the plant during growth. It develops on tubers most often during storage. Spread begins in dry, hot weather.

With fusarium blight, the leaves change color. Their edges become brownish-purple, and the top begins to lighten. Gradually, the leaves wither, the stem darkens, and brown spots covered with a white-gray coating appear on the fruits.

Black potato leg

Black leg can destroy the entire potato crop. The stem and roots begin to rot, the leaves curl and become stiff. The tubers become soft and have bad smell. Rot can develop both from inside the fruit and from the outside. Preventive measure is the treatment of seed material with special preparations.

Potato ring rot

A common bacterial infection is ring rot. Notice on initial stage illness is problematic. When the leaves and tops begin to fade, the plant is already infected from the inside.

In the veins of the leaves, the juice becomes yellow-brown, which indicates the process of decay. Putrefactive rings and spots are visible not only on the surface of the tubers, but also inside, when cut. The damaged part of the potato is filled oily liquid, which turns brown over time.

Medvedka

Adult insects (up to 6 cm in length) and mole cricket larvae cause significant damage in vegetable beds. They damage the roots and stems of potato bushes and gnaw through root crops. In the fight against mole crickets they use traditional methods And chemicals(Prestige, Aktara, Masterpiece).

Colorado beetle

The Colorado potato beetle feeds on the leaves of nightshade crops, but prefers potatoes most of all. Eats leaf petioles, but does not touch flowers, stems and roots. If measures are not taken, the plant will stop developing and the tubers will be small.

From Colorado potato beetle use such means as Confidor, Regent, Commander. Weeds should not be allowed to appear, crop rotation must be observed, it is important to plant planting material on time and remove all plant debris from the site after harvesting.

Kira Stoletova

How many days does it take for potatoes to sprout after planting? To answer the question, let’s look at the factors on which the yield of such a crop depends.

Temperature

One of important indicators Successful seed hatching is ensured by well-warmed soil. If the soil is below 8°, then agricultural work cannot be started. To prevent the sprouts from freezing, it is necessary to determine average daily temperature at a depth of 12 cm.

To determine the disembarkation period, you can use folk signs. Root crops are buried in the ground after flowering has begun. perennial plants, and the birch leaves became the size of a penny coin.

If the earth warms up to 10° C, then the potatoes wake up within 25 days. When the temperature increases to 20°C, hatching occurs on the 15th day. An early harvest can be harvested if sprouted tubers are planted. This option reduces the time by a week from the variety declared by the manufacturer.

"For southern regions the onset of phase 1 (emergence of seedlings) after 20 days in most cases is a deviation from the norm, but for northern regions this period is quite acceptable.”

The depth of planting can also affect germination. The earth is slowly warming up in the lower layers, which negatively affects growth. The thicker the soil layer above the seed, the longer it takes for development. In addition, pecking depends on soil moisture. Wet soil does not hold temperature well and does not allow air to pass through; tubers rot from lack of heat and oxygen.

Uneven shoots

It happens that potatoes take a long time and sprout unevenly. If not violated temperature standards when landing, you should understand other reasons:

  1. Different shapes of tubers. Large specimens need more time to germinate, while small ones hatch first. Small seeds produce nonviable shoots that quickly die.
  2. Mix of varieties. Each species has its own development time, so the processes appear unevenly. If the potatoes rise unevenly, then this is an indicator of the farmer’s carelessness.
  3. Depth. Planting is carried out according to a strictly selected scheme. If the holes are not the same size, the tops will hatch late.
  4. Uneven germination.

If you plant potatoes according to the rules, then the likelihood of a problem occurring is reduced to zero. The longer a person spends time in the first days, the less trouble awaits in the future. Errors are difficult to correct; they can only be prevented in the initial stages.

Planting order

In order for the planted potatoes to germinate on time, you need to ensure proper preparation for planting and caring for crops. All work begins in the fall and continues throughout the growing season.

Plot

Potatoes prefer to grow in nutritious soil, so humus is added to the soil during digging. For normal development, one bucket per 1 sq.m. is enough. In spring, the soil is thoroughly plowed, removing plant debris. The lack of microelements affects not only fertility, but also the germination of raw materials.

When choosing a site, give preference to a well-lit place. In the shade, the crop develops poorly, and the timing of hatching from seeds may be delayed. Do not forget about the rules of crop rotation - do not plant vegetables after nightshade species. Recommended predecessors:

  • green manure;
  • zucchini;
  • garlic;
  • legumes

A week before planting, you can start laying out the beds. Remember that the plant will not produce a bountiful harvest in too dense soil, therefore it is necessary to “dilute” the structure with sand. Two tablespoons of superphosphate are poured into the bottom of each hole, after which the plantation is covered with polyethylene.

Preparation of raw materials

To obtain good harvest potatoes, you need to take only high-quality varietal seeds. Under favorable conditions, potato seedlings appear a month after planting. However, there are varieties of the popular root vegetable that will delight a bountiful harvest 6 weeks after digging into the ground. If you want to get young potatoes, then we recommend choosing early-ripening and ultra-early varieties.

Harvesting begins in the fall after the last harvest. Select correct, even tubers, without damage or stains. The raw materials are left for several days under the diffused sun for greening. Such fruits are perfectly stored until the next season, and low-quality specimens appear immediately.

In the spring, the sorted and sorted seeds are transferred to a room with access to light and a temperature of 15 to 20 C. We advise you to lay out the products in two layers on racks or in vegetable boxes. After 3 weeks, shoots with roots appear on the potatoes. Before starting work, remove all ungerminated specimens or those with irregular shape(single, thread-like).

If you don’t have time to sprout potatoes, then you can give preference to heating. The procedure begins 10 days before planting in the ground. To do this, the raw materials are left in the dark at elevated temperature– 18-20 C. Longer stay in such conditions leads to the formation of long shoots, which break off when buried in the ground.

Large tubers take longer to germinate than small ones. Huge fruits take a long time to form large bushes with a highly developed root system. If you don’t want to get giant specimens, then give preference to medium-sized raw materials - no larger than a chicken egg.

You cannot take tubers without eyes, otherwise you may not see shoots at all. The potatoes should be healthy, without cracks or dents. In addition, it is prohibited to store seed in white plastic bags. Under such conditions, pipping is zero.

To ensure the health of the raw materials, we recommend cutting two potatoes for inspection. Additionally, pay attention to the shoots of sprouted tubers. The shoots should be short and thick. The longer the branches, the more likely they are to break during transportation or planting.

Landing

In order for potatoes to sprout, you need to bury them to a depth of 8 to 10 cm; the recommended planting pattern is 80x35 cm. Some gardeners prefer to place the tubers more densely, but densely planted vegetation will interfere with development. The tops are poorly blown by the wind, which increases the likelihood of getting late blight.

When growing root crops, it is important to adhere to the rules of agricultural technology. Knowing how many days it takes for potatoes to sprout, you can ensure the most comfortable conditions for a crop such as potatoes.

Spring planting is over, you can relax a little. How many days does it take for potatoes to sprout? What needs to be done to speed up the process?

Old-timers say that potatoes “pop out” after 21 days. In fact, this does not always happen.

Landing rules: terms and conditions. The planting time varies in each region. Climate features influence. In central and northern regions Frosts and even light snowfall are possible until mid-May. Mostly planting is done from the last week of April until mid-May. It is best to plant potatoes when the outside temperature reaches +7–10 degrees. The earth should warm up to + 8 degrees. The first leaves can be observed after 25 days. When the soil warms up to +20, the germination period will be reduced by 7–10 days. The way potatoes germinate is also affected by:

  • quality of seed material. Seeds should be germinated at a temperature level of 10–12 degrees for 14–20 days. Avoid contact with direct sun rays. The sprouts should be dense, swollen, and small. If these pre-germination conditions are met, the potatoes will sprout a week earlier.
  • planting depth. It is important to remember when planting the depth of the hole. It should be no more than 10 cm. Heavily buried potatoes will “sit” in the ground for a long time.
  • soil moisture percentage. Maximum indicator 75%. Otherwise, the formation of fungus on tubers will not only increase the time, but can also completely destroy the entire crop.
  • variety of vegetable crop. “Jumps out” faster.

"Tricks" to speed up the process. If you need to get an extra-early harvest by the end of July, then potassium and phosphorus should be added to the soil. A month before planting, the seeds must be germinated. For early harvest better to take early and mid-early varieties. Be sure to spray the seeds every 7 days copper sulfate(2 grams per 10 liters of water) or boric acid(50 grams per bucket of water). If they are absent, you can treat them with potassium permanganate (10 grams per 10 liters). Seed material is planted in the ground on April 25–28. Several small potatoes are placed in the hole. You can cut large tubers, making sure to leave 2-3 “eyes”. Cutting knives must be treated with potassium permanganate.

To prevent possible frosts, the plot of land is insulated. An air “cushion” is created under the straw, a layer of sawdust, and humus. It not only saves from temperature changes, but also accelerates the plant growth process. Some gardeners use ready-made covering material for these purposes.

The most in a simple way Heavy watering of the area is considered to speed up seed germination warm water every evening. When water freezes, it releases heat, which is what has a beneficial effect on potato growth.

Simply sprinkling the first shoots with a layer of soil (3–4 cm) will also help. In the future, these “mounds” do not need to be leveled.

A month after planting, it is necessary to feed the young plants with ammonium sulfate (25 grams per 1 square meter) or urea (12 grams per 1 square meter).

The second feeding with potassium (50 grams per 10 liters of water) should be carried out during the budding period.

Why are the shoots uneven? The “friendly” appearance of the first shoots is influenced by several aspects:

  • planting depth level. The upper layers of the earth are heated more strongly; the deeper the seed material sits, the more time it takes to break through to the surface.
  • tuber size at planting. The larger the planting material, the longer it takes for germination.
  • mixing varieties. Each variety has its own characteristics. The early ones “break through” faster, but are very susceptible. If at winter storage was violated temperature regime, possibly long and poor-quality ripening.

Collect excellent harvest You can grow potatoes in the fall without much effort. It is necessary to approach competently and methodically preparatory process and follow the recommendations when planting. Grow potatoes for health!