How to protect polyurethane foam - the properties of the sealant itself and methods of protecting it. How to seal polyurethane foam - work wisely

Can not imagine modern construction without the use of polyurethane foam: this material serves a wide range of jobs and is used to seal almost any cracks and cavities in the building. The foam hardens quickly and provides reliable protection, But appearance joints are not very attractive, in addition, in order for the foam to last as long as possible, it must be protected from adverse influences.

The heat retention and sound insulation properties of a material can be maintained for many years only if it is reliably protected from ultraviolet radiation sun, it can destroy the composition in just a few years.

Features of the work

Consideration of the question of how to plaster polyurethane foam, you should start with the process of selecting materials and preparing tools. Using the right tools makes the job much easier and allows you to achieve excellent results, even without construction qualifications.

Selection of composition and tool

So, how to plaster polyurethane foam to make the coating reliable and durable?

The following factors should be taken into account:

• Where the premises will be performed, many compositions are suitable, while for external putty the solution must have water-repellent properties, withstand temperature changes well and not be destroyed by the sun.
• Layer thickness and slot width. As you know, putty should be applied in a thin layer, while plaster can be used to level out even significant differences. This aspect is easy to determine by looking at all the places that require treatment; we note that most often it is advisable to use a plaster solution.

• Features of the room in which sealing areas are sealed. For example, in the bathroom it is best suited cement composition, which is not afraid of moisture and has high reliability, in ordinary premises You can also use gypsum compounds.

Advice!
The choice of a specific option depends on you, we only note that Rotband gypsum plaster, Fugenfüller joint compound and other similar solutions with increased strength properties are very suitable for finishing foam.
For exterior plaster cement or latex based or tile adhesive or thermal insulation boards– it also has high properties.

What do you need to purchase before starting work?

Everything is quite simple here:

• Available for purchase required amount mixtures (it all depends on the volume of work, and determining how much composition is needed is quite simple, even by eye). As noted above, for interior decoration will fit well gypsum plasters, outside it is better to use weather-resistant compounds, otherwise the repair will not be durable. Any plaster on top of foam first of all performs protective functions, therefore high demands are placed on it.

• To treat the base you will need a primer. The choice of a specific option depends on the characteristics of the base, desired type you can easily pick it up in any hardware store. As a last resort, you can use a universal acrylic composition, which penetrates deeply into the structure of the base and strengthens the surface.
• If slopes are to be finished, the joints between the frame and plaster need additional protection, as cracks most often form there. It is best to purchase a paintable sealant - its price is low, but the benefits are undeniable. It is applied simply: after finishing with a knife, the plaster is removed along the seam at a distance of approximately 3-4 mm, and this cavity is sealed with sealant.

Advice!
The easiest way to apply the composition is to use a narrow and wide spatula.
The narrow solution is applied to the wide one, and with its help the mixture is distributed over the surface.
The work is quite simple, and the main thing in it is accuracy.

• The solution must be mixed in a clean, convenient container.

Preparing the base

This stage is quite simple, but its importance is very high, so do not neglect the following operations:

• First you should sharp knife cut off all excess pieces of foam - the surface should be smooth without protrusions or depressions.

• If there are unreliable areas and pieces of old coating, they should be removed, and all problem areas seal with cement mortar, since applying too thick layer Plastering is strongly discouraged.
• The surface is thoroughly cleaned of dust and dirt; it is better to do this with a vacuum cleaner - it will remove dust from all irregularities.
• Before starting work, the base is treated with a primer; it will strengthen the base and balance the absorption in all areas - the plaster on the mounting foam will lie much better and dry evenly.

The working process

Let's look at how to plaster polyurethane foam with your own hands:

• First, the solution is mixed as required by the instructions. You should not prepare too much mixture; it should be enough for about half an hour of work.
• Next, the composition is applied to the surface; if the layer is 1 cm or more, it is better to finish it in 2-3 layers, so the surface will be much stronger. Remember that the minimum layer must be at least 4 mm, otherwise the composition will not protect the foam properly.
  
• After drying, the surface is sanded and treated at your discretion: or covered with wallpaper.

Conclusion

In fact, finishing polyurethane foam is quite easy - the material is unpretentious and provides a solid base. The video in this article will help you understand some of the nuances of the work even better.

How to cover up polyurethane foam - a common and important question. After all, when it is necessary to install PVC windows, polyurethane foam has gained significant popularity due to the important operational benefits. In terms of its composition, polyurethane foam is a polyurethane foam sealant; the main components of the material include isocyanate and polyol. Also, the production composition of polyurethane foam is supplemented with various auxiliary components - stabilizer, foaming agent, catalyst, etc.

The main characteristics of polyurethane foam are viscosity, output volume, adhesion, primary and secondary expansion. This construction material depending on the composition, it can be presented in the form of one-component or two-component mixtures. It is possible to divide the polyurethane foam according to its intended purpose - household, professional, winter, summer, all-season.

We cover the installation seams - the foam requires proper protection

But the sought-after multifunctional material also requires appropriate protection. After all, polyurethane foam during operation encounters harmful effects in the form of moisture and sun rays. Manufacturers also report this on cans of polyurethane foam. But a completely reasonable question arises - how to seal the polyurethane foam.

To avoid negative impacts and significantly increase the service life of the polyurethane foam, simple and sufficient effective options- treatment of foam with sealant, paint, putty or using special materials. Without protection, cracks and staining of the polyurethane foam occur due to the destructive effects of sunlight and moisture.

Destruction will not occur immediately, but the service life of polyurethane foam without protection will be insignificant - only about four years. After this time, loss occurs thermal insulation properties construction seams. Exposure to moisture, temperature fluctuations and ultraviolet radiation lead to the loss of thermal conductivity of the foam - it loses its hygroscopic properties, and gradual destruction occurs.

How to cover polyurethane foam - how to achieve a long-lasting result

Therefore, appropriate protection becomes a prerequisite for polyurethane foam - to maintain properties during operation without the need frequent repairs. Before sealing the foam with putty or sealant, you can use PSUL (pre-compressed sealing tape), which is specially designed for the corresponding tasks.

Other means can be used to protect polyurethane foam:

Finishing plaster or putty, resistant to temperatures below zero;

Polyurethane sealant;

Mortar of sand, cement, white grout;

Liquid plastic;

Acrylate paint;

Window putty and other methods.

How to cover polyurethane foam - competent assistance from Harvest Industriales

For confidence in the quality and durability of the result, installation plastic windows and related work is recommended to be entrusted to competent specialists. Experienced specialists Harvest Industriales companies approach each project individually, carrying out accurate measurements, carefully considering the characteristics of the work and the object, selecting the preferred method of protection for reliable protection of the polyurethane foam.

Polyurethane foam has a lot of advantages - it is a sealant, a heat insulator, and a fixative. High-quality polyurethane foam does not change its properties for decades, but only under one condition - if you protect it from ultraviolet rays! What could be better in this case than polyurethane foam putty?

If everyone who has ever dealt with construction or repair is familiar with the consumption rates of cement, putty, gypsum and other building materials, then the consumption rate of polyurethane foam is the same backfill question even for many specialists. On two absolutely identical objects builders can use completely different volumes of polyurethane!

There may be several reasons:

• Weather is the first reason to consider. In cold weather, you will get a much smaller volume of foam from the balloon than in warm weather. Manufacturers indicate the temperature limits on the cylinder and honestly warn about this feature, so complaints can only be made about nature! It is best to carry out work involving polyurethane foam in the warm season, but if there is a need to insulate a building or fill a hole in the wall in winter, use special winter foam - it retains its volume even at low temperatures. Of course, it also has a limit - minus 10 °C.
• Manufacturer - you don’t need to think that buying the same number of foam cylinders from different manufacturers, you buy the same amount of foam. You can't tell the difference by eye, but the weight will give it away! Take cylinders from different manufacturers in your hands, and you will feel how some are an order of magnitude lighter, which means there is much less foam. So you won’t be able to save money on cheap products - you will pay for gas, and in the end it will turn out that it would have been more profitable to buy a more expensive but high-quality cylinder.
• The method of application - the volume of foam, or rather, the volume of work performed, depends on this factor no less than on the first two. There are two ways to apply foam: through an adapter tube, which comes complete with so-called household cylinders, and through, which is purchased separately for special cylinders with appropriate valves.
• The second method is also called professional, but in fact it would be much more correct to call it economical. It's simple - the gun very clearly regulates the supply of foam (speed, thickness of the strip), thus reducing material consumption, while household cylinders give out the volume of foam, as they say, over the top. Professionals know that blowing one door frame requires 1.5 foam cylinders with a valve under mounting gun, A household cylinders you'll get all four!
  
• Banal theft - alas, but with human nature can not argue. Selling unused building materials is a great way for a builder to make extra money. The only way to control it is to be present when the work is done. There can be many excuses for this, for example, say that you want to install a window in the barn yourself and would like to learn from a professional. If you need to supervise a team, put a person you trust in charge. It is impossible to completely eradicate this phenomenon, but theft will decrease.

If we take into account all factors, we can obtain some average flow rate. If the manufacturer indicated a volume of 60 liters on the cylinder, in fact this means that you can use a maximum of 48 - the rest may simply remain inside the cylinder due to a lack of gas that pushes the material out.

With width assembly seam from 20 mm to 70 mm and a depth of up to 125 mm, foam consumption per 1 meter of seam will range from 13 cm 3 to 100 cm 3. It turns out that for 1 meter of seam it can take from 1/5 of the cylinder to 1 ¾. To reduce costs, you can use joint fillers such as polystyrene foam. In some cases this is even necessary!

If we talk about consumption per 1 m2, then costs will increase significantly - by square meter The area required varies from 1 to 5 cylinders, depending on the thickness of the layer. Depending on your goals, you can also reduce costs due to the cheapness of the material, when quality and characteristics are not particularly important to you. For example, for sound insulation there is no point in spending money on high-quality foam; even the cheapest Chinese foam will do the job. But if you decide to use foam as glue, then it is better to choose the highest quality - in any case, the consumption in such cases is small.

Is it possible to putty polyurethane foam and what to putty it with - there are answers to both of these questions! Foam can and should be protected with putty or plaster, and fortunately, these materials are good friends with each other. It is necessary to plaster, first of all, where one of two conditions must be met:

• Against Fire safety– in this case the layer of plaster should be about 8 cm! And the foam itself must be fire-resistant (class B1) and withstand exposure to an open source of fire from two to four hours. It is advisable that the foam be from a certified manufacturer. If these conditions are met, you will be able to avoid sanctions from the fire inspectorate.
• Decorative appearance - everything is clear with this. Putty on polyurethane foam not only provides protection, but also shields the contents of your walls from prying eyes, giving the renovation a finished look. If you want to provide additional protection from mechanical damage, use drywall.

So, let's get to work.

How to putty polyurethane foam - step-by-step diagram

Step 1: Level the foam

Foam traditionally has a wave-like structure and when it expands, its excess sticks out in the most unusual positions. Puttying or plastering on such a surface will not work, so first trim the dried material (at least 7-12 hours after application). If plaster is used to protect the foam, the seam must be further deepened by a few centimeters.

Step 2: Apply the tape

To protect a clean surface from stains, apply masking tape around the perimeter. The tape should be removed when the plaster has already been applied, smoothed and slightly dried.

Step 3: Working with the mixture

For work on polyurethane foam, almost any mixture will suit you, but the mixture has proven itself best Rotband. Following the instructions on the package, knead and carefully, working with a spatula, apply the mixture to the foam.

Step 4: Grout

When the material has dried, the unevenness is smoothed over with construction mesh or sandpaper. Good polyurethane foam can withstand pressure well, so you don’t have to be afraid to use force, like when grouting ordinary plaster.

It is not always advisable to spend money on purchasing plaster mixture and wages to workers. But you should still think about it - some methods are inexpensive, but no less effective than plaster. In addition, if the foam has a dense structure, on a clean cut it will have a rather nice appearance, which means that the “decorative” issue will not be so acute.

For cutting, it is best to use a foam saw - it has special teeth that do not tear the material.

When this is inconvenient, use with a regular knife with a sharpened blade. After trimming the foam, use coarse sanding paper to try to sand it problem areas with protrusions. Then you can use regular paint, preferably white or light colors. Modern compositions have special pigments that provide additional protection from ultraviolet radiation, but even completely ordinary floor paint in several layers will perfectly protect the foam from direct sunlight.

Roofing felt, sheets of metal, boards - all this can be used to protect polyurethane foam. If decorative look you don’t care at all, and the foam is under constant shadow, it can be left uncovered - air and moisture have practically no effect on it.

Polyurethane foam is a polyurethane foam sealant that is used in construction. The material hardens quickly and protects the base from aggressive influences. environment. However, the foam itself is vulnerable to external factors. Putty is used to protect the material. The main thing is to know how to choose and apply the composition.

The purpose of polyurethane foam is to fill spaces and holes. The service life of the material after use is 5 years. After this period, the foam is dismantled and used new line-up. If this is not done, the material will collapse, and the voids will create a favorable environment for the spread of mold and mildew. In addition, polyurethane foam is destroyed by ultraviolet radiation. To prevent this from happening, the material must be protected. You can do this in several ways:
Application of sealing tape. The material will protect the foam from exposure to ultraviolet rays and destruction, but the product has a short service life and is not intended for outdoor use.
Application of primer and similar compounds. The products provide waterproofing of the material, but do not protect against sunlight.
Puttying. The composition will protect the foam from moisture, ultraviolet radiation and other negative impact environment. Professionals also highlight other advantages of putty - affordable price and ease of use.
In addition, acrylic paint, sealant, putty and other compounds are used, but such products will not provide reliable protection for the material if the excess product has to be trimmed.

How to protect polyurethane foam?

How to putty polyurethane foam is a question that arises among amateurs who are faced with such work for the first time. Any putty is suitable for this material. Professionals recommend choosing a composition based on where the material will be used - indoors or outdoors. For this purpose, a product for internal and external works, respectively.

Work algorithm

If the repair is carried out by a non-professional craftsman with his own hands, he is advised to carefully read the algorithm for using putty.

Choice of funds

As already mentioned, if the work is carried out indoors, then the composition for interior work, and if outside, then for external ones. In addition, the thickness of the product layer is taken into account. To mask small defects and protect the material, apply thin layer composition, thickness 2 mm. For this, only putty is used. The variety doesn't matter. To fill voids, the depth of which is up to 15 cm, plaster is used before puttying.
A primer will also be required. The composition improves material adhesion and finishing coating. Professionals advise using an acrylic primer. This composition is suitable for all types of surfaces and has good characteristics.

Puttying tools

For finishing works You will need a set of tools, which includes:
stationery knife;
a set of spatulas for applying the product;
work gloves;
masking tape;
capacity and construction mixer(drill with a mixer attachment) if using a dry mixture.

Preparing the construction base

Surface preparation algorithm:
wait until the foam expands and hardens (the material dries in 12 hours, but to determine the time it is recommended to carefully study the product packaging);
trim stationery knife protruding edges so that the surface becomes smooth (as in the photo below);
fix the masking tape on the surface that does not need modification;
fill the voids with plaster;
clean the base from dust and other contaminants;
apply primer.

Puttying

Putty is applied to the mounting foam as follows:
Prepare the composition if a dry mixture is used for putty. Dilute the product with water. The amount of liquid for mixing the solution is indicated on the packaging.
Apply the product to the foam. Thickness – 3-5 mm.
When the composition has hardened, clean the surface. After this, treat the base with a primer.
Take a break to let the primer dry. The hardening time is indicated on the packaging of the composition.
Apply finishing putty. Layer thickness – 1 mm. When the material has hardened, sand it with fine sandpaper. Material P 120 or P 150 is suitable. Then treat the surface with a primer. After the composition has dried, finish and remove the masking tape from the untreated surface.

Puttying window slopes

If you need to putty the window slopes, the joints and putty will require additional protection, which will be provided by a paintable sealant. Instructions for using this product:
treat the surface with putty;
remove the material from the seam 3-4 mm from the edge;
Fill the resulting void with sealant.

Puttying a car arch

Polyurethane foam is also used for car repairs. The material fills the voids that are formed as a result of rust removal. Most often, polyurethane foam is used when repairing arches. The material also needs protection, which putty can provide. In addition, the composition will level the surface. To putty a car arch, you can use any product. As a starting composition, professionals recommend using fiberglass material. For finishing coating it is used universal remedy or you can fill the surface with an aluminum-filled product. After the composition has hardened, the base is cleaned and primed. Next, paint is applied and the work is completed.

Calculation of putty consumption for polyurethane foam

The calculation of putty consumption per 1 sq. m of polyurethane foam is indicated on the packaging. Usually it is 0.6-1 kg per 1 m2 when applying a layer 1 mm thick. Therefore, the thicker the layer, the more putty will be required. It is necessary to make an accurate calculation of the product, since the finished composition cannot be stored.

How much does putty for polyurethane foam cost?

If we talk about how much putty for polyurethane foam costs, then it all depends on the product. For example, the price for latex composition is 200 rubles per 1 kg. Dry mixture is much cheaper. The price for 25 kg of product is about 250 rubles. The cost of putty also depends on the manufacturer. The more popular the brand, the higher the price of the product.
The video in this article demonstrates how to properly putty polyurethane foam.

Puttying polyurethane foam – mandatory stage repairs before finishing. Neglecting such work will lead to the destruction of the material and the appearance of an aggressive bacterial environment.

Today it is already difficult to imagine construction or renovation work, where polyurethane foam is not used. With its help, they solve a lot of problems, because foam acts as a heat insulator, sealant, or is used as a fixing agent.

Polyurethane foam is highly durable and may not change its useful characteristics for many years, but subject to certain conditions - no ultraviolet rays. If you do not hide the foam from ultraviolet radiation, it quickly deteriorates and, as a result, loses its beneficial properties.

There are a lot of ways to hide the polyurethane foam so that it doesn’t damage it or interfere with its aesthetics. A common one is to putty.

This method is simple. One thing, BUT, these materials do not fit together, so plaster is applicable in 2 cases:

• If fire safety is at the forefront. Then apply a layer of plaster, which is 80 mm. In this case, use putty only with fire-fighting foam, which resists fire for 120 to 240 minutes. Although the fire inspectorate will still have complaints;
• For decorative purposes. In this case, putty is not so much protection, but as an aesthetic coating. This is the way to finish the work, making it aesthetically pleasing and pleasing to the eye.

If additional protection from mechanical impact is created, use plasterboard sheets. The seams between them are plastered, the foam is hidden. Then they are not afraid of damage and shedding of the plaster.

Why does foam need protection?

Foam best fills the space in a crack or hole or seam. If you don’t think about protecting the foam, its service life will not exceed 5 years. In a process like this, improper use, the foam is constantly destroyed, and as a result, liquid and moisture penetrate into the crack and cause destruction. And in the worst case, the gap inside the wall will become a source of mold and mildew.

A simple way to protect it is to use regular sealing tape. But if you protect the foam outdoors, the tape is unlikely to serve as reliable protection for long.

Another way is to use special mixtures (primers) that provide moisture-resistant protection. They have their drawbacks - in most cases they do not protect against ultraviolet rays - the main problem with polyurethane foam, and invariably lead to its destruction.

Other options are also used - sealants, putties, plastic, or acrylic paint. But if the excess foam is trimmed, it will not provide sufficient protection.

The protective layer for the foam prevents ultraviolet rays, creates vapor and water resistance.

That's why The best decision in this case putty or plaster. Moreover, its specific type and type are not important. This method is affordable and simple - even a person without special knowledge or skills in the construction industry can cope with such work.

Puttying process

Wait until the foam has completely expanded and dried. When ready for use, it has a wave-like shape and often excess foam appears in unusual points and positions. It will not be possible to hide such fragments with plaster, so they must be removed first. For these purposes, excess foam is cut off slightly deeper into the wall in order to use putty.

The polyurethane foam should be cut no earlier than 12 hours after application, but it is better to check the drying time. They are indicated on the can.

Before applying the plaster, apply regular masking tape around the areas of upcoming work to protect the clean surface that does not need any finishing from stains. Remove the tape after the plaster has been completely applied and dried.

Polyurethane foam protection

To hide the polyurethane foam, any of the following is convenient: existing species putties. However, the preparation process and the proportion of dilution of the mixture depend on the choice of manufacturer and specific model.

After mixing is completed, the mixture has acquired a thick, uniform consistency; it is applied to the mounting foam.

They make a small, protruding excess, which is then eliminated with a spatula, but you should not go too deep, otherwise you will end up with a recess, a depression, which will have to be eliminated again.

The excess, when it dries, is simply washed off using sandpaper or special construction mesh, which is used for finishing works with plaster.

Begin washing after the putty has completely dried. In this case, the chances of causing damage are minimal; moreover, apply force to erase in order to quickly obtain the desired result.

Other ways to hide foam

It is not always practical to use putty; sometimes it is an extra waste of money. You can hide the polyurethane foam in other ways. Some of them are more expensive or cheaper than plaster, but are not suitable in all cases.

Simple and cheap method– trimming the foam and its subsequent rubbing. This method is relevant for cases where foam with a dense structure is used. This cut has an aesthetic appearance.

To make the cut neat, use not a knife, but a hacksaw for foam plastic - this blade does not tear the material. Next, after trimming the foam, it is sanded. To do this, use coarse sandpaper.

After sanding is completed, painting begins. To do this, use regular paint. It is better to prefer white or other light shades. Apply the paint in several layers, then it will become uniform flat surface, which will provide sufficient protection to the mounting foam from ultraviolet rays.

Other methods include the use of any available materials - boards, or metal sheets, even roofing felt will do.

If the foam is in the shade, and aesthetics are not an issue at all, then it is left in this form. Despite the fact that moisture and air have free access to the dried foam, they will not cause damage to it, moreover, it will retain its properties. If you are not sure that the shadow is permanent, hide the foam immediately. In the future, they simply forget about this need, and when the issue becomes acute, it turns out that the foam needs to be applied again, wasting time and money on repeating the work already done previously.

What are the nuances?

When preparing the solution for further application to the foam, you should be careful and thoroughly stir the mixture to eliminate the appearance of lumps that will spoil the aesthetics.

Depending on what functions the plaster layer performs, prepare a place for it. If it is protective, then remove the excess foam with a recess of several centimeters in order to plaster it efficiently. If the layer is decorative, then a large recess is not needed; a depth of no more than a centimeter is sufficient.

If you need to hide the foam on the street, take into account that even the impossibility of getting on protective layer moisture does not eliminate the chance of damage from other factors atmospheric influence. Severe frost also causes damage to plaster. You should take care of this problem in advance and purchase a frost-resistant mixture. If the work is to be done indoors, this is not necessary.

Regardless of which recess is prepared for plaster, the holes are plastered so that the layer of the mixture is at least 5 mm. If you use a smaller layer, this will lead to the appearance of cracks on the surface of the plaster and its subsequent destruction.

If the layer exceeds this value, then the plaster is applied in several stages, waiting for the initial drying of the previous layer.

Grouting is not done after the plaster has completely dried; it is enough to allow time for proper hardening.

When working with plaster, do not forget to use gloves and glasses. Dried mixture on the skin is difficult to wash off, and contact with the eye leads to serious consequences.

Don't forget to clean the tools after completing the work. If the mixture has not hardened, do this simply by washing them in water; if it has dried out, it will have to be cleaned mechanically.

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