How to close the ventilation in the bathroom. Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet: operating principle, typical diagrams and installation features. What kind of ventilation is there?

20.06.2020

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High-quality indoor ventilation is probably one of the most important points that should be discussed when preparing for renovation. A bathroom in an apartment is a delicate place both in its purpose and functionality.

High-quality ventilation of the bathroom and toilet will ensure a comfortable microclimate throughout the apartment, since the exhaust ventilation duct is located either in the combined bathroom or in the toilet. Faulty ventilation in the toilet and bathroom can harm not only fresh renovations and finishing materials, but also your health.

Types of bathroom ventilation

Ventilation in an apartment is of three types according to its purpose:

exhaust(exhaust air is removed through the ventilation shaft);
inlet(provides fresh air from the street into the room);
mixed(organizes air movement in the room due to the exhaust and supply type).

As a rule, in the bathroom they organize only exhaust ventilation. The easiest way to organize air flow is in living rooms.

By design Ventilation in the bathroom is divided into ductless and ducted. Ventilation of the first type occurs due to an opening in the wall through which the exhaust air enters the general ventilation duct of a residential apartment building. Duct ventilation is a complex of ventilation equipment, most often in the form of pipes running under the ceiling. Suitable for servicing large premises: office buildings, shopping centers, etc.

According to the organization system air circulation in the bathroom, ventilation can be natural or forced.

At natural(or gravity) ventilation system, the flow of fresh air is carried out through windows and doorways, and the effectiveness of ventilation depends on the difference in temperature and pressure outside and indoors - the greater the difference, the better the air exchange. Simply put, fresh air enters the apartment through the window and exits through the exhaust ventilation duct.

However, natural ventilation in the bathroom does not always cope with its task.

Here are a few reasons why the apartment is not ventilated:

accumulation of debris in the ventilation duct;
tightly closed windows and interior doors.

It’s easy to check the tightness of the doors in the bathroom - there should be a gap under the door through which a newspaper will pass. If you are not satisfied with the presence of cracks, install a door with a ventilation grill.

Blocking the movement of air masses leads to increased humidity - a favorable environment for the active life of bacteria, which can cause allergic reactions and problems with the respiratory system. Humid air in the bathroom also promotes the formation of mold and mildew stains. Finishing materials will begin to deteriorate, pipes will begin to rust, the service life of bathroom furniture and plumbing fixtures will be significantly reduced, and the strength of the load-bearing structures of the house will decrease. All this is fraught with costs for further repairs.

The toilet in the apartment also needs high-quality ventilation so that unpleasant odors do not stagnate and cause discomfort to your household and guests.

Diagnosis of ventilation status

To check the ventilation in the bathroom and toilet, you must:

open the window in any nearby room and the door to the bathroom;
Attach a piece of paper or a napkin to the opening of the ventilation shaft.

The air flow, which is not obstructed by anything, should attract the sheet of paper to the air duct grille. If this does not happen or the sheet holds weakly, then the natural ventilation system is broken.

Here are a few more factors that will help you understand that the ventilation is faulty:

the mirror fogs up a lot after taking a bath or shower;
feels heavy, damp air;
moisture accumulates on walls and furniture;
other types of mold have appeared;
unpleasant odors do not go away.

You might think that it is enough to clean the natural ventilation channels and breathing will become much easier, unpleasant odors will go away, and dampness in the bathroom and toilet will no longer spoil your expensive finishing and plumbing fixtures. However, this is not always enough.

A common myth in the world of indoor ventilation is that natural exhaust is productive all year round. Even if you do not observe on the walls and the mirror surfaces do not fog up, you should understand that the natural ventilation hood works when the air temperature outside the window is significantly lower than the temperature readings inside the room. The rest of the time it does not function.

The principle of operation of the gravity (natural) ventilation system is based on the difference in air density. Warm air is displaced by a cold stream, since it is lighter, and is discharged through exhaust ducts. This means that you can only get rid of dampness in the bathroom in the cold season if the window is open (or in ventilation mode), which is not always suitable for our frosty winters. Moreover, you will have to keep the doors open both in the bathroom and in the toilet.

Therefore, forced ventilation of the bathroom will come to your aid.

Forced ventilation

Forced ventilation of the bathroom and toilet is a reasonable alternative to the classic one. This method of ventilation involves installing a fan that will clean the air from unpleasant odors, including foreign odors from neighboring apartments, the entrance and the street.

Types of Exhaust Fans

Domestic fans that you can install in your bathroom include:

channel;
wall-mounted

A wall fan is fixed at the inlet of the exhaust vent, a duct fan is installed inside the air duct. Both types will ensure the removal of stale air and high-quality circulation.

Based on the type of design, fans are divided into:

Axial(aka axial). Advanced view. Available in price and installation. The body of an axial fan has the shape of a cylinder; inside there is a wheel with blades, most often with a check valve. Rotating, the blades “capture” air and remove it from the room. The device is mounted at the entrance to the ventilation duct.
Radial. A radial fan consists of a motor, a rotating wheel with blades, and is enclosed in a metal casing. It has a spiral shape, visually reminiscent of a “snail”.

The fan may have the following set of devices and functions:

timer,
humidity and motion sensors,
operation from a light switch,
separate switch key.

The first two options are quite expensive and have their own inconveniences when used. The motion sensor is most often installed in the door, which requires additional investment and time. The disadvantage of a fan with a timer is that if you stay late in the toilet, the fan will stop working earlier than you expected. The motion sensor is inconvenient because under similar conditions (there was not enough time), you will have to open the door slightly for the sensor to work. This can put you in an awkward position, especially if you have guests in your apartment.

Basic requirements for organizing forced ventilation in the bathroom and toilet

To select a suitable fan, you must first familiarize yourself with the requirements of SNiP (Building Norms and Rules) in sections SP 60.13330.2012 “Heating, ventilation and air conditioning” (updated edition of SNiP 41-01-2003) and SP 54.13330.2016 “Residential buildings multi-apartment" (updated edition of SNiP 31-01-2003). According to the standards of these sections, the volume of exhaust air in sanitary premises must be 25 m 3 /h.

Concerning noise level, modern fans are distinguished by their low noise. In individual cases, you can use sound-absorbing materials by installing them inside the air duct immediately before installing the fan. You can also purchase a virtually silent fan, but you will have to spend some money.

Installation of ventilation in the bathroom and toilet

Even if you have ready-made air ducts, it is better to entrust the fan installation to specialists.

The higher the hood is located in the room, the better: warm air is displaced by cool, fresh air and rises upward.
When organizing bathroom ventilation in a private house, please note that the fan should be located opposite the source of fresh air (opposite the door or in the opposite corner) and further from the water source.
Before starting installation, you should clean the ventilation duct with a brush. If the ventilation shaft is filled with large debris, call a specialist from the housing office to clean the ventilation ducts.
If the bathroom is separate, a fan should also be installed in the ventilation duct in the toilet (bathroom), but provided that there is no ventilation window between the bathtub and the toilet.

One of the main functions of the window between the bathroom and the toilet is natural ventilation. Such windows were popular in Khrushchev buildings.

The fan is mounted in the hood opening, securing the structure with self-tapping screws, dowels or construction adhesive. If necessary, you can expand the exhaust opening to a suitable diameter. Connect all the wires and hide them in a special box to protect them from moisture.

When connecting the fan to the lighting system, you should study the instructions in detail, turn off the electricity in the apartment, and only then begin installing the equipment.

A forced fan in your bathroom and toilet will ensure clean air and extend the life of your furniture and plumbing fixtures. Do not forget to maintain the fan by periodically wiping dust from the device, washing the plastic parts once a year and lubricating the motor of the mechanism.

To connect plumbing fixtures to the water supply network, a flexible water supply is used. It is in demand when connecting faucets, showers, toilets and other water intake points, and significantly simplifies the installation process. Flexible connections are also used when installing gas equipment. It differs from similar water devices in its manufacturing technology and special safety requirements.

Characteristics and types

The flexible hose for connecting plumbing is a hose of different lengths made of non-toxic synthetic rubber. Thanks to the elasticity and softness of the material, it easily takes the desired position and allows installation in hard-to-reach places. To protect the flexible hose, there is an upper reinforcing layer in the form of a braid, which is made from the following materials:

Aluminum. Such models can withstand no more than +80 °C and retain functionality for 3 years. At high humidity, aluminum braiding is prone to rust.
Of stainless steel. Thanks to this reinforcing layer, the service life of the flexible water line is at least 10 years, and the maximum temperature of the transported medium is +95 °C.
Nylon. This braid is used for the manufacture of reinforced models that can withstand temperatures up to +110 °C and are designed for intensive use for 15 years.

The fasteners used are nut-nut and nut-fitting pairs, which are made of brass or stainless steel. Devices with different permissible temperatures differ in the color of the braid. Blue ones are used to connect to a pipeline with cold water, and red ones for hot water.

When choosing a water line, you need to pay attention to its elasticity, reliability of fasteners and purpose. It is also mandatory to have a certificate that prevents the rubber from releasing toxic components during operation.

Features of gas connections

When connecting gas stoves, water heaters and other types of equipment, flexible hoses are also used. Unlike water models, they are yellow and are not tested for environmental safety. For fixation, end steel or aluminum reinforcement is used. There are the following types of devices for connecting gas appliances:

PVC hoses reinforced with polyester thread;
made of synthetic rubber with stainless steel braid;
bellows, made in the form of a corrugated stainless steel tube.

The Santekhkomplekt holding offers engineering equipment, fittings, plumbing fixtures and devices for connecting them to communications. The range is represented by products and materials from well-known foreign and domestic manufacturers. Discounts apply for bulk purchases, and product quality is confirmed by standard certificates. For information support and assistance, each client is assigned a personal manager. The ability to arrange delivery within Moscow and to other regions of the Russian Federation allows you to quickly receive the purchased goods without unnecessary hassle.

Drainage is a drainage and drainage measure to remove excess groundwater.

If water does not leave the site for a long time, the soil becomes gleyed, if shrubs and trees quickly disappear (get wet), you need to urgently take action and drain the site.

Causes of soil waterlogging

There are several reasons for soil waterlogging:

clay heavy soil structure with poor water permeability;
aquifer in the form of gray-green and red-brown clays is located close to the surface;
high groundwater table;
technogenic factors (construction of roads, pipelines, various objects) that interfere with natural drainage;
disruption of the water balance by the construction of irrigation systems;
The landscape area is located in a lowland, ravine, or hollow. In this case, precipitation and the influx of water from higher places play a big role.

What are the consequences of excess moisture in the soil?

You can see the results of this phenomenon yourself - trees and shrubs die. Why is this happening?

the oxygen content in the soil decreases and the carbon dioxide content increases, which leads to disruption of air exchange processes, water regime and nutritional regime in the soil;
oxygen starvation of the root-forming layer occurs, which leads to the death of plant roots;
the supply of macro and microelements by plants (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, etc.) is disrupted, because excess water washes out mobile forms of elements from the soil, and they become unavailable for absorption;
intensive breakdown of proteins occurs and, accordingly, the processes of decay are activated.

Plants can tell you at what level groundwater lies

Take a close look at the flora of your area. The species inhabiting it will tell you at what depth the ground water layers are located:

perched water - it is best to dig a reservoir in this place;
at a depth of up to 0.5 m - marigold, horsetails, varieties of sedges grow - bladderwrack, holly, foxweed, Langsdorff's reed;
at a depth of 0.5 m to 1 m - meadowsweet, canary grass, ;
from 1 m to 1.5 m – favorable conditions for meadow fescue, bluegrass, mouse peas, rank;
from 1.5 m - wheatgrass, clover, wormwood, plantain.

What is important to know when planning site drainage

Each group of plants has its own moisture needs:

with a groundwater depth of 0.5 to 1 m, vegetables and annual flowers can grow in high beds;
depth of water layer up to 1.5 m is well tolerated by vegetable crops, grains, annuals and perennials (flowers), ornamental and fruit shrubs, trees on a dwarf rootstock;
if the groundwater is more than 2 m deep, fruit trees can be grown;
The optimal depth of groundwater for agriculture is from 3.5 m.

Is site drainage necessary?

Write down your observations for at least some time. You yourself can understand how much drainage is needed.

Maybe it makes sense to simply redirect melt and sediment water along the bypass channel, rather than allowing it to flow through your site?

Perhaps it is necessary to design and equip a storm drain and improve the composition of the soil and this will be enough?

Or is it worth making a drainage system only for fruit and ornamental trees?

A specialist will give you the exact answer, and we strongly recommend calling him. But after reading this article, you will gain some awareness on this issue.

Upon completion of the technological and production tasks associated with the arrangement of a sewer system in an apartment building, industrial building, as well as in a private household, it is necessary to test the involved system using the forced flow method. This task is used to identify possible defects or improper installation of the entire involved sewerage part, and the test report for internal sewerage and drainage systems will be material evidence of the work on acceptance of the facility.

A visual inspection should be accompanied by inclusion in the test report of internal sewerage and drainage systems according to SNIP, which is currently represented by the current regulations of the “D” series appendix, which corresponds to SP 73.13330.2012 “Internal sanitary systems of a building”, recently a new one has been applied updated working edition according to SNiP 3.05.01-85.

The bathroom and toilet are rooms in the process of arranging which, first of all, you need to think about organizing intensive air exchange. This is due to the specific nature of the operation of hygienic premises. Polluted and over-humidified air must be freely removed and replaced with a fresh portion.

We will tell you how ventilation should be arranged in the bathroom and toilet according to building codes and regulations. In the article we presented, the options for organizing ventilation that have been proven in practice are analyzed in detail. Do-it-yourselfers will find detailed installation manuals here.

The opinion that the absence of a ventilation shaft in the bathroom and toilet will only lead to fogging of the mirrors is fundamentally wrong. The main problem is the appearance of fungus (most often it can be seen on the seams between tiles) and rust on the surface of equipment and furniture.

Often, it is due to an incorrectly designed ventilation system that corrosion affects the working parts of the washing machine, which is the cause of its breakdown. The list of problems that the lack of intensive air exchange leads to does not end with this. As a result, poor ventilation will have a detrimental effect on the health of residents.

Sanitary requirements and standards

There are special standards that must be followed when organizing forced air exchange in rooms with high humidity levels. At a minimum, it is necessary to ensure an influx of fresh air in the amount of 6-7 m 3 / hour for each cubic meter of the bathroom and about 8-10 m 3 / hour for the toilet or combined bathroom.

The difference between natural ventilation and forced ventilation

There is natural and forced ventilation. In the first case, air exchange is ensured by the circulation of air masses through door and window openings. About a century ago, natural ventilation was considered the most effective method.

Today, it is unable to provide a sufficient level of air exchange, so it is used only for inflow. To fully ventilate the room, choose the forced option. After all, no one wants to open a window for a long time in winter and let out the heat.

Organizing forced ventilation involves installing an exhaust fan. Thanks to this, you can retain precious heat, remove excess moisture and fill the room with fresh and clean air in a matter of minutes.

The main reason why it is worth installing forced ventilation is precisely sized doorways and the tightness of modern double-glazed windows. Such perfectionism, while retaining heat, makes any natural air exchange impossible.

Calculation of optimal performance

Before going to the store and purchasing equipment for installing forced ventilation in the toilet and bathroom, you need to make some calculations. To select the equipment that is optimal for performance, you need to know the exact volume and type of room.

Each room has its own air exchange rate. This characteristic shows how many times the air in the room should be completely renewed per unit of time (usually one hour). Since the bathroom and toilet are considered one of the wettest places in any apartment or house, a maximum air exchange rate of 10 is recommended.

If the fan cannot be placed in the optimal place for organizing intensive air exchange, then its power must be multiplied by 2-3 times

You should also immediately provide openings for air flow. To do this, you can leave a gap of up to 2 cm between the floor and the door, install special grilles at the bottom of the doors to the bathroom and toilet, or drill holes yourself. But the last option does not look the most attractive.

Classification of exhaust fans

When planning the installation of a ventilation system, special attention should be paid to the principle of its operation and individual components. After all, productivity, noise level of equipment, installation cost and durability depend on this.

For forced evacuation of exhaust air from the room, three types of fans are used:

diametrical;
axial;
radial.

The first type of devices is designed to work in heat guns and air conditioning systems. Therefore, it is not suitable for organizing ventilation in the bathroom and toilet. It remains to choose from two other types.

The main difference between axial models and radial ones is their low cost and high power. But the device will make quite a lot of noise. An axial fan is an impeller to which blades are attached. The system is driven by an electric motor.

As for radial units, their operation is based on the action of centrifugal force. Due to the rotation of the impeller together with the blades, air masses move.

In this case, you can change the inclination of the blades, thereby reducing the amount of energy consumed by the device and reducing the level of noise it produces. Our recommended article will introduce you to popular models intended for installation in bathrooms.

To prevent air from the ventilation shaft from returning back into the room, it is recommended to buy devices with a check valve. Such devices are indispensable in modern apartments.

Basic criteria for choosing equipment

Manufacturers offer a simply huge range. Therefore, it is not surprising that every unprepared buyer falls into a stupor and does not even know what he should order.

When buying an exhaust device for the bathroom and toilet, you need to pay attention to the following points:

Duct diameter. Depending on this characteristic, the fan pipe is selected. As a rule, standard models have a diameter of 150, 125 or 100 mm.
Presence/absence of air ducts, as well as their location in the room. These criteria influence where the fan will be installed.
Power. Characteristics are important when choosing, so that in the future the exhaust equipment copes with the functions assigned to it.
Presence of moisture protection. This indicator is marked with the Latin letters IP. The minimum required value for a plumbing unit is IP30, but it is better to spend a little money and order a device with IP44. In the latter case, it will be located in a special sealed casing, protected from moisture and splashes.
Noise level. Few people pay due attention to this important characteristic, but in vain. After all, a silent exhaust system will make being in the bathroom and toilet more comfortable.

Taking these subtleties into account, you can choose a model that will be inexpensive and satisfy all your wishes.

Typically, the fan package includes the device itself and four dowels that will be needed for its installation. In most cases, a cardboard box is used to package the device.

Additional equipment features

An excellent solution would be to order a fan with additional functions. Most often, buyers prefer models with a built-in timer.

In this case, the user can leave the factory settings or program the operation of the device independently, changing the operating time, start delay, etc. Thanks to this, it is possible to automate the process of ventilation of the toilet and bathroom.

Devices with a built-in timer are quite expensive. Therefore, their choice should be taken with full responsibility. Products from Maico have proven themselves best. This manufacturer offers a number of models that are equipped not only with a timer, but also with other additional functions.

Fans that allow you to switch the base load will help save energy. That is, the unit can operate in two modes: half its capacity and full power, when you need to refresh the air in the room in the shortest possible time. Thanks to this function, the noise of the ventilation system is significantly reduced and energy is saved.

A good solution would be to buy a device with a clock or backlight. These additional features will make showering or bathing more convenient and comfortable.

Any specialist will prefer a device with a built-in humidity sensor. Its peculiarity is that it turns on only by a signal from the built-in hygrometer. Thanks to this function, energy is saved and there is no need for a separate electrical outlet for the fan or connecting the device to a light switch.

System components and materials

Today, ventilation is assembled from a round or rectangular section. As a rule, they are made of metal or plastic. These elements are mounted behind a suspended ceiling.

If we are talking about bathrooms and toilets in a small apartment, then in such housing the ventilation duct is a hole in the wall into which a fan is inserted. In this case, there is no point or need to design a complex, branched system.

As for private houses, ventilation for them is constructed from the following elements:

Air ducts. It is much more convenient to install rectangular air ducts. They fit compactly under the ceiling and do not take up extra space. These are pipes whose length can be 2, 1 and 0.5 m.
Fan. A surface-mounted or built-in device is used. The latter type is best used in branched and complex systems. Overhead models are recommended for ventilating one room.
Swivel elbows. In the case of rectangular pipes, the rotary bends can be vertical or horizontal.
Couplings. These elements are used to connect straight sections of the ventilation system.
Check valves. They are designed to prevent air and insects from entering the mine.

During the installation process you will also need fastenings. It is much more convenient to use ready-made elements. They will greatly simplify the installation process and speed up the work.

But if you need to save money, you can make the fastening elements yourself

In case of an error in the design or insufficiently efficient operation of the ventilation system in the bathroom and toilet of a private house, the problem can be eliminated by installing it in the wall. Features of choosing the specified device and installation rules are given in the article, the contents of which we advise you to familiarize yourself with.

Installation of ventilation in the bathroom and toilet

Before starting installation work, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. First of all, you need to compare the diameter of the exhaust device with the size of the shaft.

If the ventilation hole is large, then a plastic pipe or corrugation is inserted into it. In this case, the voids should be sealed using polyurethane foam. If the entrance to the ventilation shaft is smaller, it can be expanded using a hammer drill.

Determining the installation location

For forced ventilation to be as effective as possible, it is not enough just to purchase powerful equipment. It is equally important to choose the right installation location.

Since it is designed to remove hot, humid air, the optimal solution would be to install it in the upper part of the wall, which is located opposite the door.

It is important to organize the flow into the room - you will have to build a special grille into the lower part of the door or leave a regular gap under the door (a more economical way). These options will allow fresh air to flow from the living space into the bathroom.

Diagnostics of the condition of the ventilation duct

If you are thinking about remodeling a bathroom or toilet, then before starting any work it should be done in ways accessible to the owners.

First of all, the traction is checked, for which a sheet of plain paper, a lit match or a lighter is leaned against the shaft. If the paper sticks to the ventilation grille and the flame tilts towards the duct, then this is a good sign.

To improve draft, it is recommended to check whether the ventilation duct is clogged with debris left behind after inept repair work or for some other reason. After cleaning, check the draft with the door open and closed.

Selecting a device connection diagram

If we consider a standard apartment in a new building, then in the vast majority of cases natural ventilation is not enough to remove all excess moisture from the bathroom. The only exception is a private house, the toilet of which has a window.

But when installing forced ventilation, the question is: how long should the exhaust device work? Often apartment owners. This means that the device will be able to work exactly as long as a person is in the bathroom. This may not be enough.

The second method is based on connecting the fan to a separate switch. But in this case, the user will forget to turn on/off the device. Therefore, a suitable solution would be to install a fan with a humidity sensor. Such devices operate autonomously and remove excess moisture from the bathroom without human intervention.

Due to convenience and energy savings, the most popular method is when the fan is connected to the light switch. But this method is not very effective

Fan installation details

Before you begin installing the ventilation system, you must read the instructions that come with the devices. In the vast majority of cases, the entire installation process is described in detail in the insert. This will greatly simplify and speed up the work.

The most labor-intensive stage is installing and connecting the fan.

Remove the front cover.
In those areas where the fan is adjacent to the wall, it is necessary to apply polymer glue, silicone or liquid nails. All of the above mounting methods are perfect, since exhaust devices are most often made of plastic and, accordingly, are light in weight. Therefore, liquid nails will be enough.
Insert the fan so that its working part (electric motor and wheel with blades) is completely “recessed” into the wall.
Press the unit body tightly so that the adhesive has time to set.
Install a mosquito net. This element will protect against various insects and debris from entering the room from the ventilation duct.
Secure the front cover using self-tapping screws or dowels that are included in the kit.

The final stage is laying the cable and connecting the ventilation system to the electrical network.

The entire installation process is quite simple, but if any problems or difficulties arise, it is better to entrust this work to professionals

Forced ventilation significantly increases the volume of air removed from the room. But since the front cover blocks a considerable part of the channel when the device is turned off, the flow rate decreases several times. Because of this, its performance drops significantly.

The above problem is solved by installing an air intake grille. This will help restore normal performance. The second method is to leave a small gap (1-3 cm) between the front cover and the wall. Air will be sucked into the resulting gap and ventilation will operate normally.

When connecting the ventilation system to the electrical network, you must adhere to safety rules. First of all, you need to make sure that the wires are de-energized. In addition, to connect them it is better to use terminal blocks rather than “twists”

Common installation mistakes

If an inexperienced craftsman is installing a ventilation system, then situations often arise when, after finishing the work, its performance does not satisfy the wishes of the residents or it is not efficient.

The reason for this is due to errors during installation. To avoid basic problems, you need to know some nuances.

The most common errors encountered when installing a ventilation system are:

the channel is designed incorrectly, which significantly impedes the movement of air;
fans make a lot of noise when operating;
the tightness of the shaft connection is broken;
The ventilation system passes through the living space and its noise interferes with the normal life of the family.

If the design was not done correctly, then the problems listed above will certainly appear. However, to correct them, it is often necessary to completely redo the ventilation system.

In some cases, a strong hum when the fan is operating is a clear sign of its incorrect installation and an error called “alignment”. This problem is solved by dismantling the device and reinstalling it, but with strict adherence to technology

You can go the easy way. For example, to reduce noise, it is recommended to use noise absorbers. As for increasing ventilation performance, to do this you will have to install a new, more powerful exhaust device and check the quality of the air flow into the bathroom and toilet.

It will be useful for people who are encountering the organization of ventilation in the bathroom and toilet for the first time to familiarize themselves with tips from experienced professionals. First of all, they recommend ensuring a normal flow of fresh air into the room. Otherwise, the operation of the exhaust fan will be meaningless.

There is no need to buy expensive and bulky systems. Spending enormous amounts of money is not always the best solution. It is enough to select the devices correctly and competently, then even cheap models will cope perfectly with the ventilation of the room.

When choosing a fan, you should never skimp on quality. After all, the health of each family member, as well as the service life of the device, depends on this. It’s better to spend money once, but order a device that will faithfully serve for decades

If the house has an air conditioner, ionizer, purifier, and similar devices, then it is still necessary to install ventilation. After all, none of the devices listed above provides a flow of fresh air into living spaces.

Rules for operating the exhaust system

In order for the equipment to serve as long as possible, it is necessary to regularly carry out preventive maintenance. After all, dust and dirt accumulate on the fan blades over time. This does not allow the device to operate at its maximum capabilities and provide decent air exchange. Moreover, if cleaning is not carried out in a timely manner, the device may fail.

Installing a forced ventilation system allows you to solve the problem of room ventilation, which is pressing for modern houses and apartments. A window is rarely installed in bathrooms and toilets, so the only correct and reasonable solution would be to provide intensive air exchange artificially by installing a fan in the system.

The health and well-being of residents of a private house largely depends on the quality characteristics of the air they breathe. In apartment buildings, the ventilation of residential premises is designed and installed by the developer. In your home, the owner needs to worry about this on his own. The ventilation system installed in the bathroom of a private house can be natural or forced. Which one to choose is up to you.

Natural ventilation is suitable for houses built from breathable materials. Forced ventilation is mandatory for houses built using modern sealed materials. A forced exhaust hood is selected for a bathroom in a private house, taking into account the square footage of the bathroom and the number of residents.

For the natural ventilation system to work effectively in a country house, it is necessary to organize the influx of fresh street air and the outflow of air masses through the ventilation shafts. In a house with wooden windows, fresh air can leak through microscopic cracks in the frames.

The optimal height for the location of the ventilation supply valve in the outer wall of the house is considered to be from 2 to 2.1 meters. In plastic windows with multi-chamber double-glazed windows, it is advisable to install climatic valves for a regular flow of outside air. These devices on windows can be replaced by supply valves installed in load-bearing walls under the window sills above the radiators or on the side of the window openings.

In this case, cold air currents coming from the street will mix with warm air heated by the batteries. This means that there will be no unpleasant or hazardous drafts in the house.

How does air get into the bathroom?

Portions of new air enter the bathroom from other living areas of the house through a 2-2.5-centimeter gap between the floor and the door leaf, provided when installing the door to the bathroom. Another option for getting air into the bathroom is to purchase and install special doors, the bottom of which is provided with ventilation holes in the form of grilles or round windows. Sometimes the bathroom door is not closed tightly for these purposes, especially when it is not in use.

Interior doors for the bathroom, equipped with four round openings, closed with decorative lattice elements

Where does the steam and odors from the bathroom go?

Exhaust ducts are ventilation shafts directed vertically upward. The bathroom must have its own separate ventilation duct, the side exit to which is designed at the top of the wall in the sanitary room.

A direct exit to the ventilation duct is cut directly into the ceiling of the bathroom. It is into these channels that steam is drawn in, as well as all foreign odors. The ventilation window is covered with a decorative grille. Under no circumstances should windows for ventilation be covered with wallpaper or other finishing materials.

With proper installation of natural ventilation, there will be dry air in the bathroom. Thanks to the timely removal of moist air, you will not encounter problems with mold and rotting of the materials from which your home is built.

The ventilation window in the bathroom wall has a round shape and is covered with a light decorative grille to match the white ceiling

Ventilation device for two rooms

In a two-story cottage house, through the ventilation shaft coming from the bathroom located on the first floor of the building, you can organize air exhaust from the second floor room.

In this case, they cut into the ventilation duct not immediately at a right angle, but through a small elbow, part of which runs parallel to the exhaust riser.

It turns out that air is drawn in through the hole located below the entrance to the ventilation shaft. This is done in order to prevent exhausted moist air from being sucked from the bathroom into the living room on the second floor.

Installation of the ventilation duct

You can assemble and install a ventilation duct in a private house that discharges exhaust air directly to the street using ready-made insulated elements. Such ventilation systems are produced by well-known manufacturers and are assembled as a kit. Their cost is high.

Selecting suitable materials

Orange sewer pipes, which are used to conduct the outer part of the autonomous sewer network, help solve the problem in a cheaper way. The walls of these pipes do not crack in the cold.

You select the pipe diameter depending on the area of the room: 100 or 150 mm. The length of the entire pipe is calculated based on the fact that the ventilation duct should be located half a meter above the roof. The higher the pipe, the stronger the draft.

Sawing ventilation holes

Place a plug at the upper end of the pipe to prevent precipitation from getting inside the ventilation pipe-duct. To remove air from the top of the plastic pipe, make oblong slots in a circle, the width of which is 20 mm, and the distance between adjacent holes is 30 mm. The length of the cut rectangular windows should reach 250 mm.

Insulating the walls of the ventilation pipe

In order to prevent condensation from forming in the installed ventilation duct due to the temperature difference in the attic and outside, its walls must be properly insulated. Basalt wool or isolon will do.

We wrap the entire pipe with foil insulation with the shiny side facing the walls.
We glue the connecting seam with foil tape.
Then we wrap it again with insulation so that the seam is on the other side of the pipe.
And tape it again.
After this, the homemade ventilation pipe-shaft is completely wrapped in a circle with tape.

Ventilation hole arrangement

A hole is made in the ceiling of a bathroom in a private house, equal to the diameter of the insulated pipe. The upper end of the exhaust pipe is inserted into the opening made in the roof, and the lower end is inserted into the ventilation window cut into the ceiling.

A homemade ventilation duct must be secured in a strictly vertical position with clamps to the roof rafters or to other structures located in the attic of the house. In the bathroom, the hole in the ceiling is decorated with a grille selected in size and color. Self-tapping screws or liquid nails are used for fastening.

Installation of the fresh air valve

The natural ventilation system in a private house works most efficiently only if a way to ensure a constant flow of fresh air from the street has been thought out. This problem is perfectly solved by installing a valve in the wall of a private house. Street air enters the house even with tightly closed plastic windows, passes through all rooms and is discharged through the exhaust hole in the bathroom, covered with a decorative grille.

Thus, a constant air exchange is carried out, which is necessary to eliminate unpleasant odors from the bathroom, saturate the enclosed space with oxygen, and remove heavy humidified air outside the house to the street.

The design of the supply valve allows you to understand how fresh air is supplied from the street to the house and in what volume

To install a fresh air ventilation valve in a log house you will need:

regular drill;
crown with a diameter of 133 mm with a centering drill;
chisel;
hammer;
tow or polyurethane foam;
hacksaw for metal;
screwdriver;
self-tapping screws;
screwdriver

In the living room of a private cottage house, a hole with a diameter of 133 mm is drilled in the upper part of a log wall using a drill and a crown attachment with a centering drill. The work is carried out in several stages, chopping off the drilled part of the wood using a chisel and hammer. The hole in the outer wall is given a slight slope towards the street in order to drain condensation.

The supply ventilation valve kit includes a meter-long metal-plastic pipe, the inner walls of which are insulated with basalt heat-insulating material. The insulation does not allow the wall to freeze in the area of the drilled hole. A piece is cut from this pipe, the length of which corresponds to the thickness of the log.

The pipe is inserted into a hole in the wall. Small gaps are insulated with tow, which is used to fill the cracks to the full thickness of the wall. You can replace tow with polyurethane foam. Next, on the street side, a grille equipped with an insect net is put on the pipe. The decorative grille comes complete with a valve.

Installation of a supply valve in a wooden house can be done on your own without the involvement of ventilation specialists

Lastly, the valve itself is installed. To install it, you need to remove the headrest and gain access to the mounting lugs. The valve consists of two petals that open at several angles. There is an arrow on the body, the direction of which is taken into account when installing the valve in a plastic pipe.

Additionally, we attach the valve to the wall with self-tapping screws. Then we install the headrest, snapping it onto the fixed part. We return to its place the wheel that regulates the degree of opening of the valve petals.

Forced ventilation of the bathroom

If the draft in the ventilation shaft is weak, then you can increase the outflow of heavy humid air from the bathroom using an electric exhaust fan. Check the traction force using a sheet of thin paper or a lit match. If the leaf sticks to the exhaust window and the flame stretches towards the exhaust hood, then the draft is good.

If there is little or no draft, the only solution is to install an exhaust fan. Nowadays, you can choose exhaust fans for a variety of situations, in a variety of sizes and colors. It is advisable to calculate and install a fan of the required power, then your time spent in the bathroom will be comfortable.

Fan models with a check valve are very popular in exhaust ventilation. As a rule, a check valve is already initially provided in the fan design. The damper curtains automatically open when there is even a small flow of air from the room and slam shut when there is a reverse flow of air into the room.

Transparent curtains of the check valve operate according to the “nipple” system. The air flow into the ventilation system is free, but back is completely blocked

This design is very important in a situation where, due to errors in calculation and installation, a reverse flow of air from the exhaust ventilation into the room is possible. Moreover, the curtains are autonomous and work when the fan is turned off.

Choosing a domestic fan with a check valve

Before purchasing a fan, you need to unscrew the decorative panel and measure the size of the hole, if it was provided during the construction of a private house. With the received data, they go to the store to select and buy a device with a check valve that fits the dimensions. When choosing, take into account the smaller of the measurements so that the round body fits into the window.

Among models that are suitable in size, a fan is already selected according to a number of other criteria:

design;
electric motor power;
power consumption class;
presence of a check valve;
noiselessness;
mobility of curtains, etc.

A variety of models of bathroom exhaust fans allow the buyer to choose a device that perfectly matches the interior of the bathroom

Exhaust fan connection options

There are several ways to connect the hood to the electrical network. The device can be turned on by sensors (motion or humidity), as well as simultaneously with light. Stopping the fan can also be set in several ways - by a timer after a specified time or by a switch, which must be located inside the bathroom. The check valve is automatic and its operation does not depend on electricity.

Connecting the hood to the light circuit ensures that it begins to function the moment the light is turned on. In this case, the fan must have its own separate switch, with which you can disconnect the lighting and ventilation of the bathroom if necessary. The switch can be wall mounted or located on the fan housing.

One of the possible connection diagrams for a fan in the bathroom with a separate switch for the device

In the latter case, the device is turned off by pulling the string or chain. Choose a model with a long cord so that the hood can be easily turned off by family members who are not tall. In principle, you can always make a long one from a short lace by extending it.

Timer shutdown has its pros and cons. You don't have to worry about forgetting to turn off your appliance. If you need to reduce the operating time of the hood or, conversely, increase it compared to the specified value, then inconveniences arise. Therefore, choose a model with a switch so that the fan works when you need it.

DIY installation of a fan in the bathroom

Before installation, you should carefully read the installation instructions for the axial fan. Remove the device and all components that come with it from the box. These are, as a rule, fastening elements in the form of four dowel-nails. To avoid drilling the tiles, you can replace the dowel fastening with an adhesive connection. However, removing a glued fan for cleaning and repair will be very difficult.

The minimum distance at which the exhaust fan is attached to the wall using self-tapping screws, tightened with a regular screwdriver

Therefore, let’s take a closer look at how to make forced exhaust from a bathtub in the house using a miniature wall fan secured with self-tapping screws.

remove the decorative grille from the device by unscrewing the screw or simply snapping it off (it varies for different models);
insert the cylindrical part of the fan housing into the exhaust hole;
with a marker we mark the places where the tiles are drilled for dowels or screws, depending on the wall material;
put the device aside and start drilling the tiles;
You can drill the tiles with a drill using a special feather drill, or with a hammer drill, which is a little more complicated;
plastic dowels are inserted into the resulting holes;
wires are inserted into a special opening provided by the manufacturer to connect the motor to the electrical network;
if the location of this opening does not suit you, then drill a new hole in the body panel;
install a household fan, aligning the lugs in the housing with the drilled holes;
tighten the screws diagonally so that the plastic body of the device does not warp;
remove the fan impeller, freeing access to the contacts inside the device;
We insert the stripped ends of the wires into the terminal block and clamp them with bolts;
We put the terminal block in place, placing the wires in a special groove;
we check the functionality of the installed fan by turning on the light when connected in parallel or by pressing the device’s own switch;
After checking, snap the decorative grille onto the fan housing.

The forced air hood is installed and ready to deal with humid and polluted air in the bathroom.

The wires are connected using various terminal blocks. For safety reasons, it is not allowed to twist the wires, insulating them with electrical tape

Note! The wires must be run under the tiles in advance when tiling the walls in case forced ventilation is installed. If this has not been done, then the wiring is carried out along the tiles in plastic boxes, which are glued to the tiles with polymer glue.

This video shows the installation of a ceiling exhaust fan in a bathroom, which according to the project is located on the lower floor of a private two-story house.

Ways to combine two types of ventilation

When the hood is turned on, the volume of incoming and outgoing air increases. When the device is turned off, there is practically no ventilation process in the living space. This happens due to the fact that the fan housing completely blocks the lumen of the ventilation window. The propeller blades interfere with the natural outflow of air from the bathroom. The problem is solved in two ways.

We insert a double grille into the large ventilation window-hole, which has a round window for a fan and several additional curtain-slots for natural air outflow.

There are fans on sale with different housing diameters, so you can choose a device that is smaller than the ventilation hole. When the fan is turned off, the air will escape through a simple grille located under the device.

If the ventilation window is small, then to ensure natural air outflow, install a fan on legs 1.5-2 cm thick. The legs do not allow the grille of the device to fit tightly to the wall. Air is drawn into the resulting space under the influence of the traction force generated in the shaft and leaves through openings that are not closed by the round fan housing.

The legs are made by hand from ordinary foam plastic. Self-tapping screws pass through this material well. Foam feet also serve as a shock absorber, reducing the degree of vibration of the operating hood.

An example of integrating two types of ventilation - forced and natural - in the bathroom of a private house

Having learned in detail about how to make a bathroom hood in a private house, you can decide for yourself whether you are up to this task or not. Perhaps the best solution would be to contact a company that provides installation services in your region for all known types of ventilation.

Anton Tsugunov

Reading time: 3 minutes

Proper air exchange in a room plays no less a role in ensuring comfort than temperature and light. If the air stagnates, an unfavorable microclimate will be created in the room: the person will feel stuffy, dampness and odors will accumulate, and the oxygen content will decrease. These shortcomings are especially noticeable in small and damp rooms, so ventilation in the bathroom must be good. How to achieve this?

Different countries have their own SNiPs. They also specify the requirements for room ventilation. In accordance with these documents, an air flow of 25 cubic meters is considered the norm for a separate bathroom. m/h, for a combined bathroom with toilet - 2 times more. However, ventilation ducts in houses do not always cope with this task. If the room is constantly damp and there is no air exchange, then most likely you will need to install forced ventilation.

Types of ventilation

There are 2 main types of ventilation: natural and artificial. In the first case, air exchange occurs due to the difference in pressure indoors and outdoors. Natural ventilation is provided by windows, vents, doors, and various cracks. That is, no devices are used for air circulation.

Forced (or artificial) ventilation in the bathroom is provided through the operation of a special device that sets air flows in motion. The principle of its operation is simple: the fan draws air outside, and air enters the room from the street or from other rooms.

The following types are distinguished by purpose:

exhaust ventilation, i.e. removing polluted air;
supply, aimed at supplying additional volumes of air from outside;
mixed, i.e., performing the functions of both types mentioned above.

How to check if ventilation is working

In old houses, the operation of ventilation shafts is often disrupted: over time, they become clogged and cease to perform their functions. Therefore, first you need. If it is clogged with something, the effectiveness of not only natural, but also forced ventilation will decrease.

You can conduct another test, it is also very simple and indicative:

also open the windows and doors;
light a candle and bring it to the mine exit;
if the light tilts towards the hole, then there is a draft; if it burns without moving, then the air stands still.

Then the experiments should be repeated with closed windows and doors. If in this case the light deviates or the leaf sticks to the hole, then the draft is good and strong. In this case, there is unlikely to be a need to install forced ventilation. If there is no draft, it will not hurt to install an additional fan.

The main reason for the lack of traction is a clogged channel. In this case, it is necessary, if necessary, to contact the management company. It happens that residents of the upper floors brick up the ventilation, which also interferes with air circulation. This issue will also have to be resolved through the Criminal Code.

Fan selection

The fan must meet a number of requirements:

Safety. The device will be connected to electricity and installed in a damp room, so moisture protection must be provided, and the fan must also be resistant to steam.
Low noise level. This parameter should not exceed 35 dB during device operation. Otherwise, the constant hum will irritate residents, and in some cases, neighbors. You will have to spend money on sound insulation.
Fan capacity. It should be enough to change the air in the room 5–8 times per hour.

Fan power calculation

The fan power level should ensure optimal air circulation, at least at the level of SNiPs. If it cannot drive a sufficient volume through itself, then there is no point in installing it. Therefore, it is important to correctly calculate the required minimum. There are different calculation formulas.

By room area. The area of the room is multiplied by 5 and added 20%. This is the required minimum fan power that will be needed to provide fresh air to a room of given dimensions. However, it is recommended to buy a more powerful device.
Taking into account the number of people - 6V or 8V. In this case, the volume of the bathroom (V) is calculated and multiplied by a coefficient. If the premises are used by 2 or fewer people, then a coefficient of 6 is taken, if 3 or more - a coefficient of 8.

Fan installation

In most cases there is no problem with . There are several general rules for placing a hood indoors:

It should be at the highest possible height, as close to the ceiling as possible, this will increase the volume of purified air.
As far as possible from water and plumbing fixtures, as moisture can cause a short circuit.
At the maximum distance from windows, doors and other natural sources of fresh air, otherwise ventilation will not cover the entire volume of the room. Air masses that have just entered the room will immediately be removed through the shaft, while the rest of the air will stagnate.

In most cases, the bathroom does not require additional complex air duct designs: the cooler is mounted directly into the opening of the ventilation shaft.

You can connect the device to electricity in different ways:

make a separate switch, i.e. the device will work only when someone presses the button (the switch can be either outside or inside the room);
connect to the bathroom switch, in this case the fan will work when the light in the room is on.

HELPFUL INFORMATION: Do-it-yourself bathroom renovation: sequence of work

Here everyone is free to choose the option that they consider more convenient for themselves.