How to lubricate self-tapping screws when twisting. An easy way to drive long self-tapping screws without drilling. How to screw a self-tapping screw into various materials: important nuances of a seemingly trivial matter
Concrete is often used in the construction of residential buildings and industrial complexes, so during renovations you have to work with this material. You can secure any object to a concrete wall using special screws - dowels.
It looks like a dowel - a special screw for concrete.
Description of the dowel
Self-tapping screw for concrete consists of a pointed rod and a head with a cross notch. Due to its high strength, it does not deform or collapse under heavy load.
Pins are made from brass, carbon steel or stainless steel. These materials are similar in strength and price characteristics. However, carbon steel is most in demand, since self-tapping screws made from it are coated with a protective layer that does not allow oxidation. Each type of coating has its own color, which indicates the rules of application:
- Silver The layer is made of zinc, this is a universal option.
- Yellow protection also means zinc, but its scope is narrowed to interior work.
- Black the color is an oxidized coating. It exhibits maximum protective properties only indoors with normal humidity levels.
Screws hold various structures in concrete, for example, a plastic window profile or a door frame.
How to choose self-tapping screws for concrete
Among the wide variety of fastening elements, it is important to choose one that best suits the operating conditions of the structure being fastened. The following factors are taken into account:
The length of the rod depends on the density of the concrete and the weight taken. The table below will help you track the appropriate sizes:How to properly prepare a hole
A well-made hole is the basis for reliable fixation of self-tapping screws of any type in concrete. The following tips will help you get it right:
- Drilling must be strictly at a right angle. Any deviation from the right angle will lead to an increase in the diameter of the hole and subsequent loosening of the fasteners.
- The depth of the hole must match the length of the self-tapping screw (and exceed the length of the dowel) so that when screwed in, it does not rest against a hard dead end, but is freely placed to its entire depth.
- After drilling, the hole must be cleaned. The accumulated dirt will not allow the dowel and self-tapping screw to enter the full length.
How to screw a self-tapping screw into concrete
TO self-tapping screws for concrete high demands are made. They must withstand heavy loads and provide high fastening strength for a long time. To improve fixation, dowels are used - auxiliary elements that ensure the fixed location of the screws inside the concrete.
A dowel with a self-tapping screw inside ensures long-lasting and reliable fastening.
A dowel is a plastic or metal sleeve equipped with petals, hooks or spikes. When screwed in, they push and fit firmly into the hole. This aid is used in the following situations:
- The self-tapping screw bears heavy loads, and without such help it will not last.
- The screw must be fixed to porous or cellular concrete, in which fixation without a dowel is unreliable.
- Objects are fixed in structures that are subject to constant vibration.
Types and application of dowels
You need to screw a self-tapping screw into concrete with a dowel as follows:
- Prepare a hole in the wall with an electric drill or hammer drill. Its diameter should coincide with the cross-section of the dowel, and its depth should exceed its length by 3-5 mm.
- Clean the prepared channel.
- Drive the dowel into the hole with a hammer.
- Screw the self-tapping screw into the seat using a screwdriver or self-tapping screw.
Experienced craftsmen insert a toothpick into the dowel before screwing in the fastener - it adds strength to the fastener. If the dowel fits into the hole with difficulty, do not use even more physical force, otherwise it will be damaged. Instead, you need to pull it out and widen the hole.
It is possible to screw a self-tapping screw into concrete without dowels, but even experienced craftsmen use this method extremely rarely. In this case, the fasteners are installed in the prepared holes. If the concrete is cellular, porous, it is impossible to drill it with a perforator. To make screwing easier, it is recommended to drop machine oil into the hole or coat the hole with it.
How to screw a self-tapping screw into concrete without a dowel
Herringbone self-tapping screws
A special type of fasteners, the threads of which are not communicating. Such screws are not screwed into the hole with a screwdriver, but are driven in with a hammer, like nails. Such fasteners are installed once and for all; they cannot be unscrewed. This is their minus, but also a plus: they provide long-term, almost eternal, fixation. Another advantage of the products: ease of placement. A few strong blows are enough, and they are there. This greatly simplifies installation.
The herringbone thread differs from the standard one in that each level does not communicate with the lower or upper one.
Conclusion
When repairing, it is necessary to attach various structures to concrete walls. To complete this work without errors and unnecessary effort, it is important to choose the right fasteners and prepare holes for them.
If the technology is followed, the fasteners hold the structure securely and for a long time.
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Unlike nails, which fasten wooden parts by compressing the nail shaft with wood, screws and self-tapping screws have a screw thread. This same thread does not allow the screw or self-tapping screw to freely exit the body of the wood, and in addition, the thread significantly increases the contact area of the screw or self-tapping screw with the wood. Therefore, even if you drill a hole of the same diameter as a self-tapping screw, the load-bearing capacity of the screwed-in self-tapping screw will, of course, decrease slightly, but at the same time, the internal stresses in the wood after tightening the self-tapping screw will also decrease much more, which means it will be much easier to tighten the self-tapping screw and the risk of splitting the wood , chipboard or other material will be significantly reduced.
2.
The process of wood deformation under the influence of force when tightening a self-tapping screw is very complex. Wood is a heterogeneous material and the strength of wood very much depends on the point at which the load is applied, the presence of knots, the type of wood, etc. Wood has minimal strength at the junction of the fibers, so usually the tip of the self-tapping screw falls between the fibers of the wood, and it is almost impossible to tighten the self-tapping screw, as well as drill a hole in the wood with an accuracy of tenths of a millimeter. Fortunately, there is usually no such need. For household purposes, an error of 0.5-1.5 mm is quite normal.
3.
Any screw or self-tapping screw has a certain volume, and when we screw a screw or screw into wood, we are thereby trying to reduce the volume of wood by the volume of the screw. No miracle happens. The volume of wood is partially reduced due to wood collapse, i.e. due to inelastic deformations. Moreover, the duller the screw or self-tapping screw (and self-tapping screws can also be dull), the greater the proportion of inelastic deformations that occur under the tip of the screw, which means that you need to apply more pressure on the self-tapping screw or self-tapping screw to produce these deformations. Part of the volume is released due to splitting of wood along the fibers, while a gap appears between the fibers, or, scientifically speaking, a crack. The width of the crack opening depends not only on the factors listed in paragraph 2, but also on the geometric dimensions of the product and the point of application of the load. The larger the geometric parameters of the product and the closer the point of screwing in the self-tapping screw to the center of gravity of the section, the smaller the width of the crack opening, and this means, again, more effort must be applied to tighten the self-tapping screw or screw in such a place. And the smaller the width and height of the product and the closer the place where the screw is screwed in is to the edge, the greater the likelihood that the product will not just crack, but also split, and then it will be very easy to tighten the screw or screw, but there will be no benefit from such a self-tapping screw or screw, but only one complete harm. The remaining volume for the screw to be screwed in is released due to elastic deformations. The distribution of internal stresses in the body of wood during elastic deformations leads to the appearance of cracks. A similar situation is observed when screwing self-tapping screws into small chipboard or OSB parts; particle boards or oriented strand boards have less strength than wood.
4.a.
Thus, when we screw a screw or self-tapping screw into wood without preliminary drilling, we must constantly overcome the strength limit of the wood under the tip of the self-tapping screw or screw and at the turns of the thread and the ever-increasing frictional force that arises due to the compression of the self-tapping screw by the wood. The friction force increases due to an increase in the contact area of the self-tapping screw or screw with the wood. As a result, with sufficiently large rod diameters or when screwing into harder types of wood or to greater depths, no normal screwdriver will have enough power to tighten a screw or self-tapping screw to the required depth. And the screwdriver will only chirp loudly, hinting that the strength limit has been exceeded and this is correct, because screwdriver manufacturers do not like to repair products damaged due to the stubbornness of the user for free.
4.b.
However, not all people use a screwdriver that has power adjustment; why buy an extra power tool when you have a drill and a screwdriver attachment for self-tapping screws. A drill, unlike screwdrivers, does not have power adjustment, and therefore when tightening self-tapping screws or screws of large diameter or to great depth, 4 scenarios are possible:
- You will tear off the slots on the head of a self-tapping screw or screw - a very high probability, especially when tightening at high speeds.
- You will very quickly ruin the screwdriver attachment. However, if the nozzle for self-tapping screws is Chinese, this can also happen with relatively small loads on the nozzle.
- You will break a self-tapping screw that cannot withstand the torque - not often, but it happens. The fact is that self-tapping screws, unlike screws, are pre-hardened and therefore more fragile than screws.
- You will burn the drill when tightening a large number of screws at low speeds.
I don’t think you will like at least one of these options, so it’s better to spend extra time drilling holes than to spend this time repairing the drill, buying new attachments, or unscrewing a broken screw.
4.c.
Despite the victorious march of electricity across the globe, the effect of brute physical force has not yet been canceled, and therefore even now it is not uncommon for screws or self-tapping screws to be tightened manually with a screwdriver. But to be honest, I myself don’t like having to go down and get a power tool when I’m working at height. When tightening screws or self-tapping screws by hand, the scenarios are almost the same as when working with a drill, only you won’t burn the drill, but instead of the attachment you will ruin the screwdriver and you can still get a couple of good calluses. But there is a positive side to this - your muscles will develop, and girls love it, just don’t tell them exactly how you pumped up your muscles.
4.d.
There is another method that is now little used - do not tighten screws or self-tapping screws, but hammer them in. However, this method is more suitable for screws; self-tapping screws, due to their increased fragility, more often break than bend, and only if the self-tapping screw sticks out 0.3-0.5 cm above the surface of the wood, then you can try to finish it off. We are not talking about special screws driven into dowels here.
In Soviet times, there were other recommendations for tightening screws (there was a lot of cheap electricity back then, but for some reason there were few available power tools), for example, it was proposed to first tighten the first screw until the slots were licked, then unscrew and throw away the first screw and screw the second one in its place , and if the slots on the second one stick together, then unscrew the second screw and screw the third one in its place. Another option was more gentle; it was proposed to lubricate the screw with soap before tightening it to reduce the friction force of the screw shaft on the wood. Nowadays, such methods of screwing in a screw seem exotic, however, the choice of method is yours.
Sometimes it is also necessary to drill holes for metal screws if the screws are blunt. This is especially often done when assembling a metal frame for plasterboard, plastic panels or MDF panels. The fact is that blunt screws do not cut through the tin of the frame, but push through and, accordingly, the contact area of the screw increases even more and you need to press very hard on such a screw. In this case, drilling holes will not only facilitate and speed up the assembly of the frame, but will also help to avoid unnecessary injuries, because it is very easy to damage your hand if a nozzle comes off a screw.
This article is intended for those people who have very little knowledge in the use of construction tools.
We think a fairly large number of people begin their acquaintance with construction tools by purchasing them, and only then begin to figure out how to work with this tool. In addition, there will probably be teenagers or women among the readers of this article who have no idea what a screwdriver is or what can be done with it. It is for them that we decided to write this article.
To begin with, let’s talk in general terms about what a screwdriver is. Firstly, they can be divided into two large classes: battery-powered and mains-powered. The effectiveness of these tools depends directly on the brand of the tool, but cordless ones do not depend on the presence of an outlet and the length of the wire.
For a home craftsman, it is best to choose a cordless tool - it is more convenient and practical. Let's start with it.
Typically, cordless screwdrivers are sold in cases that, in addition to the tool itself, include a pair of batteries and a charger. When purchasing, it is best to immediately check the completeness of the tool and its functionality in the store. It is necessary to understand that the screwdriver is supplied uncharged from the factory, so when you bring it home, you must first charge the batteries using a charger.
After this, we insert one of the batteries into the tool and it is almost ready for use. To work, we still need to insert one more element into the chuck - the necessary bit or drill. You can buy a set of bits and drills in the store, or you can buy them separately, the same for drills.
Modern screwdrivers, except perhaps low-power models, have the function of drilling and hammer drilling, so with their help you can also drill holes in metal and wood, as well as concrete and brick.
Before using a screwdriver, you must check the integrity of the tool. There should be no mechanical damage such as dents or cracks on the case and batteries. The instrument must not be used with such damage.
Drilling metal and wood with a screwdriver
In order to make a hole in metal or wood, you need to place an appropriate drill in the chuck. For wood, if necessary, a metal drill is also suitable. After this, you need to set the desired mode - drilling. This is done using the rotating part of the tool, located immediately behind the screwdriver chuck. On the markings located on the screwdriver body, find the image of the drill and align the rotating part (arrow) with its image. In this case, the screwdriver will switch to electric drill mode. This mode must be used with caution. The fact is that the tool’s so-called ratchet is turned off (protecting the engine from excessive force on the shaft). If the drill jams, the motor may burn out.
Next, place the drill at the drilling point and press the start button. While drilling, it is important to hold the screwdriver perpendicular to the drilling axis. Due to misalignment of the drill, especially in hard material, the drill may break off. We drill harder materials at low speeds, and soft ones, such as wood, at high speeds. By the way, if the screwdriver has a speed switch button (usually two speeds), then it is best to drill at the second speed. During the drilling process, we control the pressure force ourselves. Unfortunately, it is difficult to explain this in words, so you can determine this parameter through practice.
Drilling concrete and stone with a screwdriver
To drill holes in concrete and stone, we need a special drill with a Pobedit tip. Usually everyone uses a drill with a diameter of 6 mm, which fits most plastic dowels for self-tapping screws. You shouldn't take a thicker drill - the power of the screwdriver is simply not intended for this - a hammer drill is needed here.
Before drilling, switch the screwdriver to hammer drilling mode, similar to that described above. To do this, combine the guide arrow with the image of a drill made from sections or a drill and a hammer (depending on the brand of the tool). Just as in the previous case, hold the tool perpendicular to the drilling axis. There is no need to press the tool very hard during the drilling process, although it should be sufficient to gradually deepen the drill. We periodically loosen the pressure and even remove the drill from the hole to remove drilling products (dust).
Tightening screws, self-tapping screws and bolts with a screwdriver
And finally, we come to the main purpose of screwdrivers - screwdriving (from which its name follows). Each screwdriver (on the turning part) has a number of numbers around the circumference: 1, 2, 4, 6, 8, etc. They indicate the tightening torque in Newtons. The thicker the screw or self-tapping screw and the harder the material in which it is wrapped, this figure should be larger. To wrap, for example, roofing screws into metal, a force of 12–14 N is usually sufficient.
To screw standard self-tapping screws into wood, 8 N is enough. Again, this force is selected individually for each type of screw and base material. It’s better to start tightening a new type of screw by setting the force value lower, then you can add force and tighten it. But if you immediately apply a lot of force, you can twist the self-tapping screw, which will lead to the head of the self-tapping screw breaking off, or twisting (the self-tapping screw or screw will push through the material being fastened).
Depending on the head of the screw or screw, you will need a variety of bits. For standard self-tapping screws, the bit is PZ2, for small self-tapping screws, the bit is PZ1, but for roofing screws, the head is 8 mm. It is also very convenient to assemble cabinet furniture using a screwdriver. If you have a bit for confirmation (euro screw), then the speed of furniture assembly will increase several times. In addition, it will do without calluses on the fingers from manually twisting a large number of confirmations.
The mode for driving screws and self-tapping screws has one very good property. If the base material turns out to be too hard and the screw jams during tightening, the so-called ratchet will work. A special mechanism will stop the transmission of rotation from the engine to the bit, which will prevent damage to it. All this is accompanied by a characteristic crash. You shouldn't be afraid of him.
By the way, in the twisting mode you can easily drill wood without changing the mode, the drill goes through quite easily. If the force on the tool is not enough to tighten the screw into solid material, experienced craftsmen switch the screwdriver to drilling mode and tighten the screw. But we do not recommend doing this, since you can simply burn out the electric motor without the necessary experience.
While tightening, it is necessary to press the bit against the head of the screw with sufficient force so that the bit does not slip. If the edge slips, the bits get licked and it fails.
At the end of the article, we note that it is best to store an electric screwdriver in a dry, heated room. Due to humidity, the contacts of the tool will oxidize and it may fail. Screwdriver batteries must be stored in a charged state. This way they will last much longer. If the batteries no longer hold a charge, you can always order new ones from service centers.
We hope our instructions have helped you in your work and have been useful.
The modern market for construction fasteners offers the buyer a wide selection of self-tapping screws - so necessary for any repair of products. However, the reviews about these "little helpers" are not always flattering.
The thing is that home craftsmen often do not know how to screw in a self-tapping screw correctly and how to choose it correctly.
Types of self-tapping screws
There are two main types of self-tapping screws used for self-repair - for wood and universal. Their main difference is in the thread pitch - “screws” for wood are characterized by a large pitch (more rare application of thread turns).
There is a misconception that universal parts are just as good for wood, plywood and chipboard as specialized parts. No, of course, it won’t be difficult to screw them into these materials, but how well they will stay there is a big question. The fact is that the “raw material” into which the self-tapping screw is “immersed” must lie securely in the grooves of the thread, and the structure of the wood will not allow it to fit well into the narrow “grooves” of the universal self-tapping screw.
Tools for tightening screws
Fasteners can have heads of different sizes and recesses in them of different shapes and sizes. Therefore, before screwing in a self-tapping screw, make sure that you have a screwdriver or screwdriver with a suitable attachment in your arsenal. In general, it is better to have, as they say, as many attachments for the corresponding tools as possible. Plus, they should be replaced regularly, since wear of the devices during operation cannot be avoided.
Note! The best attachments are those made of tool steel with hardening additives. Do not choose the first set you come across, otherwise after a couple of days of intensive work you will have to go for a new one.
If your plans are to screw one or two screws into a non-solid surface, then you can use a screwdriver. If it’s more, you can’t do without a screwdriver. Tightening fasteners with a screwdriver is not as simple an operation as it might seem at first glance, and requires some skill. A screwdriver will do everything quickly and efficiently.
General technology for screwing in self-tapping screws
Using an awl, make a small indentation in the space reserved for the screw. Place the product “in position”. Using careful but confident movements, rotate the part until it is well deepened and secured in the material. After this, the force can be increased. Towards the end of the “process” the speed must be reduced again so as not to damage the screw.
How to screw self-tapping screws into different materials?
Many men, not knowing how to screw a self-tapping screw into concrete, spoil a sufficient number of purchased parts. In fact, everything is quite simple: self-tapping screws are “integrated” into concrete using dowels - durable plastic “tubes”. First, a hole is made in the material, a dowel is installed there, which “accepts” the fastener.
Worth knowing! Craftsmen advise lubricating the dowels with glue before installation. This, in their opinion, strengthens the connections.
Drilling holes in concrete should be done exclusively with a hammer drill - even an impact drill may not hold up, let alone a regular one. Self-tapping screws are suitable for both wood and universal ones.
Brick, ceramic tiles, screed
Self-tapping screws are screwed into these media in the same way as into concrete. The only thing is that when working with tiles, it is better to take a regular drill, since it can crack due to the excessive power of the hammer drill.
Copper, bronze, aluminum
Measure the diameter of the fastener shank excluding threads. This manipulation must be performed with a caliper. Place the pointed jaws perpendicular to the screw and clamp the product so that they completely penetrate the thread groove; determine the diameter. Using a drill with a diameter a millimeter and a half smaller than the obtained value, make a hole in the material. Screw the screw into the hole and the job is done. Use parts with universal threads.
Note! Before “making a hole” in the main structure, it is recommended to test the drill on a small unnecessary piece of similar material. Drill a hole and try to screw the product into it. The drill is considered correctly selected if the self-tapping screw fits into the hole tightly enough, but does not jam. If the screw fails to “break through”, you should work with a thicker drill. Tightening the part too easily symbolizes that you need to take a thinner drill - otherwise the self-tapping screw may pop out at any moment.
The hole in the material should be equal to or slightly larger than the diameter of the unthreaded rod. Self-tapping screws will not be able to cope with a number of hard metals - in particular, screwing these fasteners into cast iron is almost impossible.
Not every plastic material is ready to accept a self-tapping screw, so making sure before starting work that the material fits exactly is a good idea. The technology for screwing a self-tapping screw into plastic is the same as for soft metals - copper, aluminum, bronze. Recommended products - with wood carvings.
Wood, fiberboard and chipboard
Don't know how to screw a self-tapping screw into a board? Believe me, there is nothing easier. The basic rule is to use only wood screws. For hard wood, thin boards, chipboard, fiberboard, pre-drilling a hole for the product is mandatory, since there is a risk of the material splitting with a self-tapping screw. For thick softwood boards, this manipulation can be dispensed with.
If you are working:
- with hardwood - choose a drill with a diameter equal to the diameter of the self-tapping screw rod (without threads, of course);
- with fiberboard - 1 millimeter less;
- with chipboard or soft wood - 2-3 millimeters less.
Mark dots on the sheet with a pencil. The optimal pitch between screws is up to 70 centimeters, depending on the expected loads on the structure. If you are using a screwdriver, you can start screwing the product in at maximum speed. After the self-tapping screw enters the surface by ½, it is recommended to gradually reduce the speed to minimum. When tightening with a regular screwdriver, all movements should be smooth. It is very important to tighten the self-tapping screw correctly - ideally it should be 1 millimeter below the level of the cardboard, not the plaster! This will ensure maximum strength of the future structure. If you suddenly did not follow the technology and broke through the cardboard, the “ill-fated” place needs to be puttied, and a new fastener should be placed at a distance of 5-9 centimeters from it.
The type of self-tapping screws for drywall should be selected depending on the material used to construct the sheathing. For a metal frame, universal or metal screws are required, for wooden sheathing - wood products.
How to properly tighten a screw that has been removed?
The unscrewed part must be re-tightened exactly as it was before. It is very important that the screw fits into the same groove, at the same angle. If the product “draws” a “new path” for itself, the reliability of fastening will be significantly reduced. How to get into an existing recess? Simply insert the part into the hole and turn it by hand without pressure. As soon as everything falls into place, you will feel it - the process will go like clockwork. There is no need to put pressure on a tight screw; you just need to remove it and try again. A little force is required only at the very end of screwing.
Now you know how to screw a self-tapping screw into drywall, concrete, brick, wood and metals correctly and what to do in case of “working hiccups”.
- 1. Types of self-tapping screws
- 2. What can be fastened with self-tapping screws?
- 2.1 Drywall
- 2.2 Metal
- 2.3 Wood
- 2.4 Concrete
- 3. Video
When carrying out construction work, you cannot do without tightening the screws. Without a doubt, many types of work have been greatly simplified after the introduction of this fastener. And it would seem that there are no “dark spots” in this matter; the self-tapping screw is simply screwed into the surface of the material with some kind of tool. However, everything is somewhat more complicated than it might seem at first glance; after learning how to screw in a self-tapping screw, you will understand that this process requires separate and detailed consideration.
Types of self-tapping screws
First, you need to decide what a self-tapping screw is. This is what people call a self-tapping screw. The point is that when it is screwed into any surface, it cuts a thread itself, thereby ensuring its reliable retention in the material. Depending on the design features, as well as the materials used, self-tapping screws can be divided into several types.
- On wood. These fasteners are made of steel, which is strong enough for working with wood, and the external threads have a large pitch.
- For metal. Such self-tapping screws are made of steel, and the finished product is hardened. Its thread has a much smaller pitch than a wood screw.
- On concrete. Here it is necessary to make a reservation that the self-tapping screw can be screwed into foam concrete blocks (and the like), although there will be no positive reviews about the quality of such fastening due to the low density of the material. Self-tapping screws for monolithic concrete have not yet been invented!
Anchors are not self-tapping screws; to work with them, a hole is pre-drilled in the concrete into which it is inserted. Actuating the screw mechanism causes the anchor to expand.
In addition, self-tapping screws differ in the shape and design of the cap. Depending on this, the bit with which the screwing will take place should be selected. The point is that if this is not done, then if the self-tapping screw encounters an obstacle when screwing in, then the bit, instead of slipping out of the screw head, will turn it and break it. Or, if this does not happen, then the edges on the bat will go astray. In any case, this is not very pleasant. That is why, before tightening the self-tapping screw, you need to pay attention to the correspondence of the head and the bit.
As for the screwing process itself, it must be said that the technological features will differ depending on the material into which the self-tapping screw is screwed.
What can be fastened with self-tapping screws?
We will consider each option for fastening a particular material with self-tapping screws separately.
Drywall
When you have to attach sheets of drywall, it is important to know some of the features that accompany this process.
- First of all, it must be said that it is necessary to choose self-tapping screws for screwing into drywall based on the material of the sheathing. If it is made of wood, then wood screws will be needed. If it is metal, then you will need to use metal screws.
- It is necessary to start screwing the screws into the drywall at high speeds of the screwdriver. After the self-tapping screw enters the profile, the speed must be reduced and the drywall must be pressed at minimum speed. Ideally, the head of the screw should be located a millimeter deeper than the cardboard. This way the attachment point will be as strong as possible. Do not allow the cardboard layer to be pressed through. If this happens, the hole must be filled with putty and another self-tapping screw must be tightened at a distance of a few centimeters from the unsuccessful fastening.
Drywall is not a strong material to which you can attach something with self-tapping screws. Therefore, only the fastening of the drywall itself is considered.
Metal
When you need to screw a self-tapping screw into metal, you need to carry out a number of preparatory measures.
- First you need to measure the diameter of the axis of the self-tapping screw. For these purposes, it is necessary to use a caliper. It is important to remember that you need to measure the diameter without taking into account the height of the thread.
- After this, you need to use a drill 1–1.5 mm smaller than the diameter of the screw rod to drill a hole in the material. To achieve the best result, you can practice on blanks made of similar material. Ideally, the self-tapping screw should be screwed in tightly, but not wedged in the hole.
- Screwing should be done at medium speeds of the tool, evenly and with slight pressure on the screw.
If the screw is screwed into thick metal, then the hole is made slightly smaller than the outer diameter of the screw.
Tree
If you need to screw a self-tapping screw into a wooden surface, then the work required is somewhat less than in previous cases. This is due to the properties of the material. However, in general, the stages of work are the same as in the case of, for example, metal.
- First, a preliminary hole is drilled with a slightly smaller diameter than the self-tapping screw.
- A self-tapping screw is screwed into this hole at medium speeds of the tool.
In principle, there is nothing complicated, since it is much easier to screw a self-tapping screw into wood than, for example, into metal.
Concrete
As for how to screw a self-tapping screw into concrete, there are concrete self-tapping screws for these purposes. If you drill a hole for them with a drill with a diameter of 6.5 mm, then they screw in and perfectly hold everything that is secured with them.
An ordinary screw for wood or metal simply will not stay there on its own, not to mention the fact that it is simply impossible to screw it in.
Fastening to concrete is also possible using additional fasteners - dowels.
- First, a hole for the dowel is drilled.
- A dowel is driven into the hole.
- A self-tapping screw is screwed into the dowel.
The procedure is quite simple, but requires some skill and experience. Self-tapping screws and dowels should be selected in close relationship with each other.
Anchors are used to obtain a stronger fastening.
As for the general rules on how to screw in a self-tapping screw correctly, regardless of the material, it should be said that, first of all, you need to ensure that the fastener is screwed in at an angle of 90 degrees. Overlapping must not be allowed. This will cause both additional difficulties when twisting and less strong retention of it in the surface. And in the case of metal, it can even lead to breakage of the self-tapping screw, which in turn will cause the entire fastening to become unusable. The speed of rotation of the drill or screwdriver must also be controlled.
However, by knowing and following the above rules for carrying out work and some technological aspects of their implementation, you can avoid most of the potential problems and carry out all the work yourself, quickly and efficiently, as befits a true master.
Video
Is it possible to tighten a self-tapping screw without tools? Get the answer by watching the video.
If you are going to attach one structural element to another using a screw, you should make a screw thread in the first one. The second will contain the smooth part of the screw, which is located immediately under the head. The smooth part must enter the body of the attracted fragment. Otherwise, you will not have a rigid connection between the planes due to the gap formed between them.
Countersinking is done so that the countersunk head does not protrude on the surface of the part or fragment. Sometimes craftsmen neglect countersinks, believing that they can screw a screw into soft material so that its head goes deep into the surface and does not protrude. Of course, sometimes this is possible, and if you wish, you can tighten any screw without making a countersink in advance. However, it is worth remembering that the wood fibers will be damaged by such exposure to the caps, since they will have to find a “way out” under pressure, and, consequently, the presentation will be lost.
Screw slots can be:
- straight,
- cruciform.
Some models of screws even have special plugs. They are put on a twisted head, visually hiding it. Models are presented on the head of which there is no slot at all. They have to be tightened with a head or a wrench.
Stages of fastening work
Screw manufacturers are not always responsible for their products. There are screws on sale in which the screwdriver cannot be inserted into the heads at all because the slot is shallow or there are burrs in it. It's better to throw them away. When purchasing good screws, follow some rules to tighten them securely and efficiently:
- drill a hole in the first part;
- make sure that the diameter of the hole is equal to the diameter of the screw (including its smooth part and thread);
- insert the screw into the hole without force;
- drill a hole in the second part;
- check that its diameter matches the diameter of the screw, but without taking into account the thread, because the screw must fit in here with force;
- countersink the hole in the first part.
If the craftsman has a special drill that helps combine the two steps (drilling and countersinking), the process is simplified and accelerated. Keep in mind that any special drill can only fit specific models of screws.
Countersinking
The screw will only drive into the second part if you approach the process scientifically, i.e. use special drills or perform your work in stages. He will pass freely through the first part, and his hat will tightly pull one part to the second. If a small-diameter screw is used, drilling is not required. All you have to do is apply force and make a hole with an awl.
Working with screws involves a number of subtleties. Sometimes you have to come up with a whole variety of tricks to tighten or unscrew the screw. For non-standard cases, these tricks have already been invented. For example, if you want to unscrew a screw that desperately "rests", use an adjustable wrench. This tool clamps the handle, if it has edges, as well as the upper part of the slot. Press down on the screwdriver with one hand and turn the adjustable wrench with the other.
A hammer can also be used successfully. The screwdriver is inserted into the slot, then it is necessary to lightly tap on its handle with a hammer while rotating the screwdriver, just tap, and not knock hard. Screws "with character" are turned out with a heated soldering iron, which is pressed against the cap. This kind of “torture” usually helps.
For no apparent reason, difficulties also occur with tightening/unscrewing. It seems that the slot is not defective, and the screw is put in place, and the screwdriver is normal, but the process is not going on. Check whether the working part of the screwdriver matches the slot of the screw. If the size does not match, the screwdriver will behave incorrectly, approximately like a foot in the wrong size shoe.
There are times when the length of the screw is not enough to connect two fragments. In this case, a hole is drilled in the first of them, first equal to the diameter of the screw without thread, and then a second, blind hole is drilled in it, equal in diameter to the screw head. The screw and head will partially go deeper into the first fragment. The hole can be filled with putty so that it is not visible.
When tightening a screw with a screwdriver, it is better to choose a long model. The further the hand with the screwdriver is from the head, the less the axis will tilt. If you need to screw a screw into hard wood, be sure to drill a hole and rub it with soap or vegetable oil before screwing it in. To strengthen the fastener, many craftsmen use glue: they dip the screw in it, and only then screw it in. It enters the tree more easily, and then fastens it tightly.
How to unscrew and then tighten a self-tapping screw again.
How to screw a self-tapping screw into various materials: important nuances of a seemingly trivial matter
How to screw in a self-tapping screw - Re-tightening a screw that has been removed
Plastic
Not every plastic allows you to screw a self-tapping screw into itself. Make sure you are screwing the screw into the correct plastic. Screw the self-tapping screw in the same way as into soft metal, with the exception that it is better to take the self-tapping screw with wood carvings.
Hard metals
The hole for the self-tapping screw should be equal in diameter to or slightly larger than the diameter of the unthreaded pin. It is impossible to screw a self-tapping screw into some metals, for example into cast iron.
Wood, chipboard, fibreboard
I still recommend drilling a hole for a self-tapping screw in these materials. Some masters don't always do this. There are times when this is possible. If the screw is screwed into a thick board of soft wood, then drilling is not necessary. Thin boards, chipboard, fiberboard must be drilled, otherwise the self-tapping screw may split the board when screwed. If the wood is hard (oak, ash), then drilling is also necessary so that the screw can be screwed in at all. For hard wood, choose the diameter of the drill equal to the diameter of the self-tapping screw without thread, for fiberboard - 1 - 1.5 mm less, for soft wood and chipboard - 2 - 3 mm less. We use self-tapping screws with wood-like threads.
knot
A self-tapping screw can split a knot. So first we drill a hole with a diameter 1 mm larger than the diameter of the self-tapping screw. Then carefully screw the screw into this hole.
Re-tightening the removed screw
It is necessary to re-tighten the unscrewed self-tapping screw exactly as it stood before. It needs to go in at the same angle, in the same groove that the carving made the first time. Otherwise, the self-tapping screw will create a new groove for itself, which will reduce the reliability of the fastening and may lead to the self-tapping screw flying out. To get it into an existing groove, insert a self-tapping screw into the hole and turn it by hand without applying pressure. Once it gets into the groove, it will spin very easily. If it goes tight, there is no need to apply any effort, but unscrew it and repeat the process. A little force will be needed only at the very end of screwing. It is better to re-tighten the screw with a screwdriver rather than an electric screwdriver, as this is more accurate.
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Types of self-tapping screws
How to tighten the screws
The process of screwing in a self-tapping screw
Fastening parts with self-tapping screws
Driving self-tapping screws into different materials
Brick, cement plaster, screed, cement slabs, ceramics (tiles)
Soft metals. Copper, aluminum, bronze, duralumin, etc.
Plastic
Hard metals
Wood, chipboard, fibreboard
Re-tightening the removed screw
In the section ‘Life outside the city’
To the section 'Do it yourself'
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CONFERENCE STARTCOPI
Switching to the graphical version
any: repairing screw holes
0. Anatoly513.03.13 20:20
Sometimes it happens that the screw in the plastic has gone through. Who decides how to solve this issue?
1. ASSP13.03.13 20:27
Hmm... If you follow the laws of physics, then, in this case, you need to either “add” material to the hole, or increase the diameter (or change the thread pitch) of the screw...
2. CAT13.03.13 20:46
... there are many options - everyone chooses the one that is more convenient for him.
From observations 😉 - sometimes they bring equipment for repair with the thread rolled up in plastic and repaired independently. Options that I have come across:
1 place by repeatability: a piece of a match or a toothpick is inserted into a hole and a screw is tightened along it (in principle, it is logical - a piece of a match reduces the diameter of the hole and the screw does not turn, it holds..), and as options - instead of a match, either a piece of foil or a piece of thin plastic (most often a piece of plastic clamp is found).
2nd place: Install a larger diameter/length screw into this hole (depending on whether the space allows for larger screws).
3rd place: Various adhesives or hardening fillers... ...even a couple of times it happened that they stuck a screw on something like superglue. Oddly enough, the screw still unscrewed with great force (and even in the hardened glue, the thread remained, so the screw screwed back in normally..), but in one case, the glue squeezed out of the hole by the screw got into the gap between the parts being connected - the screw I unscrewed it, but in order to separate the glued surfaces I had to work with a chisel. Only by a miracle did I manage to crack the plastic.
4th place: People just hammer... ...not in the sense of hammering a screw with a hammer, but inserting a screw into a hole and hammering in the fact that it doesn’t hold anything, and they don’t even always insert a screw into the hole - hammering in the fact that there is no screw...
3. contrabass13.03.13 20:55
People also came up with epoxy glue and plastic that easily dissolves in acetone. But this is no good when you have no time to exorcise yourself...
4. mhz8613.03.13 20:57
I mostly use
CAT(2): 2nd place
On the FC copier, the holes in the table rails were badly broken. I drilled a larger diameter, processed it with a file so that the plastic axle would fit very tightly (the axle of the mf 6550 stove flag), put it on glue and drilled a hole for standard screws...
contrabass(3): when there is no time to get rid of yourself.. CAT(2): People just score
Edited 20:57 03/13/13 mhz86
Self-tapping screws split the bars...
CAT13.03.13 20:57
contrabass(3): plastic that dissolves easily in acetone.- well, yes - drop two or three drops of dichloroethane into the hole and insert the screw...
6. contrabass13.03.13 21:05
(5) And here it is...
Sometimes they bring this.. Cartridges with construction screws, and instead of pins too.. There are holes that you want to call a hole..
7. ASSP13.03.13 21:51
(6) "When the area of the "hole" begins to exceed the area of the product, then such a product is considered invalid." A saying from my school master on “labor”...)))
8. contrabass13.03.13 22:04
(7) Apparently he’s a good master, competent, since you remember..)) Such personnel often come to us that apparently they didn’t have a school master in labor, and in physics, and many other things.. They can’t hammer a nail in a house, yes screw in the telephone socket.. (
10. Ingmar13.03.13 22:35
when the holes are not just broken, but torn out with a piece of plastic, I use a mixture of soda and cyanoacrylate. The resulting mass is perfectly drilled, processed with a file and tightly adheres to the plastic. The only downside is that it freezes in less than a second.
11. ASSP13.03.13 22:41
(8) May the moderators forgive me once again - I was generally very lucky to have teachers. The same master I mentioned taught me to work on lathes and milling machines and to hold (and use) correctly (and this is much more difficult than any machine) a screwdriver, hammer, chisel, etc. There were good teachers in the old days.)))
But I was unlucky with the chemistry teacher. Her last name was (whoever wants it, believes it, and whoever wants it, doesn’t) Kaplan... Probably everyone will guess what the first question I asked her when I “met.”)) After which I did not rise above “C” in chemistry and “honoured diploma” "covered himself with an equally great "copper basin".)))
12. Andrew14.03.13 00:48
Especially for these purposes there is a jar of dichloroethane with a plastic plug dissolved in it from a computer slot 5.25 to the consistency of thick sour cream. A couple of drops into the hole and I insert the screw. The next time the cartridge arrives, it unscrews and tightens wonderfully. In general, I used this mixture to restore a lot of things, but recently I have become addicted to hot-melt glue (although it is not suitable for carving - it sticks to the screw more than to plastic)
Printers, copiers, MFPs, faxes and other office equipment:
issues of repair, maintenance, refueling, selection
Switching to the graphical version
Seal the hole in the cabinet door
Over time, round hinges on cabinet doors made of chipboard become loose and pop out. Since such hinges and elements made from this building material have a certain service life, you cannot avoid repairs.
It is not always possible to completely replace the sash, so we offer a method for sealing a damaged hole. There is only one way out - to make a wooden patch, to which the old hinge is then screwed, and your cabinet will serve you for quite a long time.
The wood patch is made from hardwood and cut into a dovetail shape. To do this, you need to remove the old sash and drill a hole of the appropriate shape in it. You need to drill a hole in the sash as large and deep as possible - this way the fastening screws will hold better. This must be done carefully so as not to damage the veneer of the sash. To do this, place a wooden plank at the bottom of the hole being drilled, which will prevent the cutter from reaching the outer surface of the sash. The patch must be fitted with maximum precision to the opening of the sash, carefully sanded and painted in the same color as the rest of the surface of the rear wall of the sash.
1. At this point the hinge failed, the chipboard panel of the sash split, and the holes for the screws were also damaged.
What ways do you know to easily screw a screw into hard wood?
Cut a piece of hardwood into a dovetail shape and transfer the contours to the surface of the sash.
3.Drill a hole in the sash according to the intended
4. Check that the thickness of the patch matches the depth of the hole.
5. Apply glue to the surface of the patch and the wall of the hole.
6. Press the patch and wait until it sticks.
7. After drying, drill a hole for the lock loop.
8. Sand the surface so that it is smooth.
9. Paint over the repaired area; not a trace of the damage remains.
Tools:
Milling machine, clamp, drilling machine, grinder, brush, screwdriver.