How to treat Victoria bushes in spring. Victoria garden, planting and care in autumn. Autumn care for Victoria: preparing for winter

22.04.2020

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How to care for Victoria in the spring, caring for strawberries. Everyone has a Victoria at their dacha; in the spring, when everything starts to grow, many people have questions caring for Victoria, what should you do? Victoria leaves live 50-60 days a year. The top layer of soil up to 3 cm can be removed, this way you will protect the plantings from pests that overwintered in the litter. In the spring, when the weather permits, you can begin to cleanse the Victoria from last year’s foliage and debris. You can cut off all the foliage, leaving only the growth point. The entire Victoria plantation can be sprinkled with wood ash, (read all about fertilizing with wood ash at the link). Caring for Victoria (strawberry) in spring includes fertilization and mulching. Sprinkling with ash, also sprinkling with sawdust or ordinary humus. But that's it spring care for Victoria (strawberry) does not end. At the beginning of May, Victoria needs to be fed with complex mineral fertilizer. Before the buds open, spray the bushes with a solution of copper sulfate, this way you will prevent diseases of young foliage. When green leaves appear on Victoria bushes, then you need a solution of mullein with ammonium sulfate for each bush. If you trust You can only use natural fertilizers other than wood ash, Fertilize with potassium (sodium) humate. Water the strawberries once a week with warm, settled water. You can water before flowering by sprinkling, but as soon as the flowers appear, you need to water under the bush, excluding getting on the leaves themselves.

Growing and caring for Victoria

Have you decided to plant this wonderful berry on your plot? To do this you need:

Select a location Prepare the soil Purchase planting material

We choose a sunny place for planting this wonderful berry. Then we prepare the soil for planting. Victoria prefers fertile soil and for this we add humus at the rate of two buckets per square meter, and as mineral fertilizers - ash at the rate of two liters per square meter. The berries are planted in spring, summer and autumn. The best time for planting is April.

At this time, the seedlings are well accepted, suffer less, and in June they can already harvest. For planting, you need to take rosettes with a well-developed root system. Plant on a flat area, making small depressions and spilling them with water.

The distance between the rows is 50-60 centimeters, between the rosettes - 30. In order for the rosette to be well accepted, we dip its roots in a mixture of mullein and clay.

We make the mixture at the rate of 1 bucket of clay per 0.5 bucket of mullein, dilute with water to a creamy consistency. After planting, water generously. Then water as it dries.

Before flowering begins, watering can be done with a sprinkler, and then with a hose along the grooves. Victoria loves organic fertilizers and uses mullein for feeding. I dilute it 1:10. I feed the plants twice a season.

First time in early spring and then during the beginning of flowering. I feed it after watering on damp soil. After which I loosen the soil and then mulch with straw or small grass cut with a grass cutter. Thanks to mulching, moisture is retained longer, the soil does not become crusty, the berries remain clean and this protects the berries from damp rot and weeds. In order to get a larger and larger harvest of berries, during flowering and fruiting, we remove the whiskers. And if you want to propagate the berry, then after harvesting, leave 1-2 whiskers closer to the mother plant. Then caring for Victoria comes down to watering, not allowing the plants to dry out, weeding and removing dried leaves. For In order for the berry to overwinter well, it needs to be watered well in late autumn. And before frost, cover with leaves, straw or other material.

Proper care of Victoria - a rich harvest

Correct caring for victoria will allow you to get a rich harvest, from planting and watering to harvesting. It is no secret that Victoria has many beneficial properties, not to mention its excellent taste.

A rich harvest is the result of proper care for Victoria. Garden strawberries, which are usually called “Victoria,” are a very tasty and aromatic berry. In fact, Victoria is just a variety of strawberry. Caring for strawberries and Victoria has some features and differences.

Victoria landing

Victoria should be planted on a flat area with a slight slope to the west. It is necessary that the planting area be well protected from the wind, which in winter, blowing snow off the plants, can cause their death from frost. Victoria grows best on sandy loam soils , containing a large amount of humus. Victoria reproduces by mustaches that grow by mid-summer. From the nodes located on the tendrils, new shoots grow - rosettes of leaves and roots.

The first 2 - 3 rosettes from the main plant are considered the most suitable for propagation. The most suitable are the mustaches from two-year-old bushes. When a rosette has 4-6 leaves, it should be cut off from the tendril and, together with a lump of earth, planted in a prepared hole in a permanent place. Victoria is usually planted in spring or autumn, with preliminary soil preparation.

If spring planting is planned, then the soil should be prepared in the fall; if it is autumn, then the site is prepared in June. 6 kg of humus and mineral fertilizers are added to the dug up soil per square meter: potassium salt and ammonium nitrate, 20 grams each, plus 25 grams of superphosphate. In order to make it convenient to care for the plants, they are planted in rows like ridges, up to 10 cm high. Between the bushes, 20 - 30 cm should be left, with a row spacing of 60 - 70 cm.

Victoria care and watering

Victoria is very picky about care and watering. If you regularly carry out work to conserve moisture by loosening the soil, mulching, snow retention, and removing weeds, you can do without watering.

But when watering it up to 10 times per season, it is possible to obtain a more generous harvest. After flowering ends, the soil in the garden bed is mulched with wood shavings, straw or dry moss. This protects the berries from damp rot. In mid-autumn, you need to do a second mulching with peat or grain waste.

The mulch thickness should be 5 - 8 cm. After harvesting, the soil around the bushes should be loosened. When the roots are exposed, the plant must be earthed up.

Weeding also plays an important role in obtaining a good strawberry harvest. Good and timely caring for victoria will delight you with the resulting harvest of berries, which are indispensable in the treatment of kidney and liver diseases, and diabetes. Victoria berries promote blood formation, increase productivity, and strengthen the immune system. Read also about remontant varieties of Victoria, as we often call it, or simply strawberries.

Victoria - delicious victory with little secrets

Greetings, dear readers! One of the first varieties of well-known garden strawberries is the Victoria berry. Victoria fruits have an extraordinary aroma and look beautiful and appetizing on a plate.

Victoria is a berry that has many valuable properties and contains nutrients. It contains vitamin C. The name Victoria is very suitable for this berry. To feel Victoria - victory - you need to see a well-groomed bed of beautiful berries.

And for this you need to properly care for the plant. Let's talk about that in the garden plot. Victoria reproduces with a mustache. They usually appear by mid-summer. For further cultivation, plants use rosettes located next to the mother bush.

Whiskers from two-year-old plants work best. You need to plant a rosette with four leaves on the ridge, separating it from the general plant. Victoria bushes are planted in spring or autumn. But at the same time, the area for planting is prepared in advance.

For spring planting, the beds are prepared in the fall, and for autumn planting - in June, not forgetting to fertilize the soil. It is advisable to plant Victoria on level ground with a slope in a westerly direction.

In winter, snow should accumulate on the site so that the Victoria bushes do not die. In this regard, the bed must be positioned so that it is not strongly blown by the wind. In order to plant bushes, it is necessary to make holes in the prepared bed into which the mustaches, dug out along with a lump of soil, are placed.

This must be done immediately, without leaving the rosette for the next days. The Victoria berry is susceptible to infection with gray rot. To prevent this disease, the soil on the ridge is mulched with wood shavings or straws, 10 cm thick. The leaves of the plant are not covered.

When the harvest is harvested, the soil around the berry bushes must be loosened. When the roots are exposed, the berries are hilled up; regular weeding of Victoria is the key to obtaining a good harvest. Before flowering, in order to prevent gray rot disease, it is necessary to spray with an iodine solution. Special requirements are imposed on watering the bushes.

Moderate watering of the plant will allow you to preserve a large amount of vitamin products. Without additional moisture, Victoria will grow if you cover it with snow in winter, carry out high-quality weeding, and do timely and regular loosening of the soil. For today, that’s all about the area. Don’t miss the opportunity to enjoy Victoria berries.

Its taste is gone, but its benefits are immeasurable. When consumed, carefully rinse the fruits under running water. You can use garden strawberries for fasting days due to their low calorie content.

Drinking a decoction of berries and leaves will help you lose extra pounds. Any gardener will sooner or later want to plant strawberries on his plot. But how to care for Victoria to get a good harvest?

This question worries many gardeners who planted this berry crop on their plot for the first time. Is this plant difficult to care for? At first glance it may seem so.

However, if you consider some basic recommendations for caring for Victoria, it turns out that this task is not so difficult. Of course, it may be difficult at first, but with a little practice, you will become a guru in growing strawberries. And in this article you will receive comprehensive answers to important questions about the agricultural technology of this berry crop.

How to plant Victoria

So, let's consider the first question - how to plant Victoria? The answer to this is important, since it is the planting of strawberries that affects the quality of the future harvest. To understand how to plant strawberries, you must first briefly consider the structure of its bushes.

Take a look at the photo attached just below. As you can see, there is a main, uterine bush. Thanks to him, the propagation of berry crops is possible. Whiskers extend from the main strawberry bush.

Rosettes appear on these shoots - future fruit-bearing bushes. Over time, this rosette will also turn into a uterine bush. Important! For propagation, choose those shoots that have no more than three rosettes.

This will ensure stable growth of each bush, which will also affect the quality of the fruit. As soon as the rosette begins to form, immediately carefully stick its roots into the soil. This way you will provide the plant with constant nutrition of important vital elements.

After some time, when the bushes have formed, they can be planted. It is worth noting that each mother bush can produce up to 15 good rosettes. This means that you don’t have to constantly buy seedlings, and you will always have your own. Memo.

Victoria should be planted in mid-summer (July). Many gardeners advise choosing the evening time of day for this: in this case, the plant will undergo night acclimatization. What bushes can be planted in the ground? Will all sockets fit?

No, you only need to plant those seedlings that have formed a root system, have several leaves and a developed heart. Therefore, if you are buying sockets, then pay attention to all these factors, so as not to be upset later because your plant is not accepted.

In the same case, when you have your own uterine bush, then before you carefully tear off the rosette from the mustache, make sure that it matches this description. Before planting the plant, carefully straighten its roots. The location chosen for planting Victoria is also important.

The berry crop develops well on sandy, slightly acidic and loamy soil. Don't forget to saturate the soil with humus and important nutrients.

You cannot plant the plant in clay soil (it will die) and sandy soil is not recommended (the harvest will be small). Reminder! Do not plant strawberries in beds adjacent to peppers, tomatoes and potatoes.

Also, you should not plant seedlings near trees: their root system will interfere with the development of Victoria. But the proximity to corn and sunflowers will be very useful - they will protect the berry crop from the winds. The plant does not like high humidity, low temperatures and cold winds.

Such weather conditions adversely affect the productivity of the variety: the harvest will be small, and the fruits themselves will become small and diseased. But warm and sunny places will ensure that Victoria will bear fruit abundantly with large and beautiful berries.

How to water Victoria

Strawberries are considered a moisture-loving plant. Therefore, are there any special recommendations on how to water Victoria? It turned out that yes. In the first month after planting, the plant needs to be watered in the holes. After 30 days, the bushes are irrigated by filling the beds with water.

It turns out that it is from this period that Victoria begins to receive moisture abundantly. In this case, many gardeners do not reinvent the wheel, but simply bring the end of the hose to the garden bed and fill it to the top. Yes, you shouldn't be greedy with water.

For such generosity, Victoria will give you her large, pleasant-tasting fruits. But you can find out what to do with this bountiful harvest here.

How often to water Victoria

It is clear that strawberries need plenty of watering. But still, how often to water Victoria so as not to harm the plant? In spring, strawberries begin to grow rapidly.

If you do not give it the necessary moisture during this period, then you should not be surprised that the berries are small and dry when ripe. Watering continues almost until mid-autumn. In the spring and autumn seasons, strawberry bushes should be irrigated once a week.

This should be done in the morning and preferably with warm water. In the summer season, Victoria needs to be watered at least twice a week, and if the days are hot, then it can be done every other day. At the same time, we must not forget to fertilize the plants with liquid subcortex.

How to care for Victoria in spring

The spring season is the most labor-intensive. It is at this time that strawberries need special care. Therefore, how to care for Victoria in the spring? You have just finished eating frozen strawberries when spring comes to your yard, and with it it’s time for you to go out to your plot.

Where to begin? First, carefully inspect your beds. Remove all frozen plants without regret: there is no place for them to take up space in the beds.

Dead leaves must be removed from living bushes. After carefully examining the bushes and removing the dead ones, proceed to the next step: remove the top layer of soil that you used to mulch the Victoria plant last year. Why is this being done?

Firstly, various pests live in this layer and have taken refuge here from the cold, and secondly, the root system will begin to receive additional heat from the rays of the sun. When you have completed all these procedures, it is advisable to feed the strawberries with nitrogen fertilizer. As soon as your bushes are pleased with new leaves, then immediately “feed” your plants with a solution of mullein with the addition of ammonium sulfate. And when May comes, Victoria should receive a portion of complex mineral fertilizer.

How to grow a large Victoria

So, all the main work has been completed. The gardener is waiting for his fruits. But how to grow a large Victoria, because every gardener wants to get a special trophy? In fact, a lot depends on the gardener himself, or rather on whether he will help the Victoria in its fruiting. What is it about?

Again about fertilizer. And it doesn’t matter what you are doing - trying to grow cherries from seeds or wanting to get a large Victoria fruit - correct and timely fertilization will play a key role in these matters. Make it a rule to fertilize plants not only in the spring (as discussed above), but and before flowering and ripening.

In the first case, it is advisable to feed the strawberries with bird droppings. The solution is prepared as follows: one bucket of litter is filled with three buckets of water. The liquid should stand for three to five days.

The resulting solution is diluted 1 to 20 and the grooves between the beds are watered with it. And before ripening, Victoria should be fertilized twice: with boric acid and zinc sulfate. Thanks to all these actions, you can expect a bountiful and large-fruited harvest.

Growing wild strawberries, strawberries, Victoria Among berry crops, wild strawberries (strawberries) are most widespread.

It is characterized by precociousness and high ability for vegetative propagation. Its berries contain from 5.5 to 9.2% sugar, 0.56-1.37% acids, vitamin C (on average from 50 to 70 mg).

Reactive compounds (catechins, anthocyanins, flavones and others), trace elements (manganese, cobalt, iodine) and other valuable substances. Strawberries can grow in different soil and climatic conditions.

This is a perennial herbaceous plant whose leaves gradually die and renew themselves. The above-ground system has three types of shoots. The first type is shortened shoots (horns).

They have an apical bud, a rosette of three to five leaves with lateral axillary buds and adventitious roots. New horns develop from the buds of the lower part of the horn. The second type of shoots is mustaches. They are formed from the vegetative buds of the horn.

They form rosettes, daughter plants, which are used for vegetative propagation of strawberries. The third type of shoots is peduncles. They develop from the apical buds of the upper part of the horn.

The strawberry bush does not have a central stem or apical growth. New growths are formed from lateral, axillary buds located below the apical ones, in the lateral part of the stem. Two new stems may arise from the axillary buds on the side, less often three.

The resulting stems - horns, in turn, also branch, form a set of shortened stems and make up the “crown” of the strawberry bush. The number of horns reaches 30 or more and depends on the age of the bush, variety, agricultural conditions and other reasons.

Horns appear in limited quantities in the spring, but their mass formation occurs in the second half of summer, i.e., at the end of the harvest. Cord-like stems, or tendrils, are formed early in the spring and remain in their infancy for a long time.

Whiskers appear already in the first year of a plant’s life and deplete it if they are not removed in a timely manner. The string-like tendril-like stems first grow upward and then bend toward the ground. When the tendril bends towards the ground and comes into contact with it, roots and leaf buds appear at the nodes.

The roots remain in the air for some time until, together with the stem node, they touch the ground. Under favorable conditions, developed roots and a small number of leaves form a rosette.

In strawberries, each new stem is formed from a lateral dormant bud at the base of the previous year's growth. Since with the age of the bush, lateral branches (horns) appear higher and higher in relation to the soil surface, the young roots move away from the ground and are on the soil, as if in the air.

In order for young roots to grow and develop, strawberry bushes need to be hilled. The root system of strawberries is concentrated mainly in the surface layer of soil - up to 25-30 cm. Under favorable conditions, the roots of new-planted strawberries reach 70-80 cm in depth.

Some varieties (Rannyaya Maheraukha, Leningradskaya rannyaya) are characterized by a more superficial placement of roots. The maximum depth of their placement does not exceed 60-70 cm. In all cultivation areas, strawberries suffer from severe frosts if there is no snow cover.

In snowless winters, strawberry bushes die at a temperature of minus 15-18°C, but a slight snow cover is enough for the frost resistance of strawberries to sharply increase. Winter hardiness in strawberries is reduced as a result of leaves being infected with strawberry mites or being damaged by white spot.

The winter hardiness of plants also decreases sharply in a dry year, especially if the drought continues after harvest. The effect of drought is that after picking berries, plants form a small amount of new leaves, while old leaves, damaged by pests and diseases, sharply reduce photosynthetic activity.

The frost resistance of plants also decreases if the root system is not provided with sufficient air access. If the autumn is dry, the plants lack nutrition, they are weakened by weeds, pests and diseases, depleted by the formation of a large number of runners, and the next year the berry yield decreases sharply.

It is advisable to limit the cultivation of strawberries in one place to four years, that is, to obtain a harvest within two to three years. Planting strawberries and Victoria is carried out with healthy planting material.

In the Central Non-Black Earth Zone, the best results are achieved by spring planting (the third ten days of April - the first ten days of May inclusive). You can use planting material obtained from the uterine plots of fruit nurseries, as well as material stored in the refrigerator or in cold rooms during the winter.

Early summer plantings (July-August) using well-formed seedlings can also produce a high yield the following year. Autumn planting of strawberries must be completed before September 10, because at later dates the plants do not take root and do not overwinter well.

Strawberries are planted according to a single-row pattern with row spacing of 80 or 90 cm and distances between plants in a row from 15 to 20 cm. With a sufficient amount of planting material and the use of varieties with a compact above-ground part (Krasavitsa Zagorya, Early Maheraukha, etc.), thickened plantings can be carried out according to two-line pattern, the distance between lines is from 15 to 20 cm.

Such plantings give a berry yield higher by 25-27% compared to a one-line scheme. Before planting, the roots of strawberry seedlings are dipped in soil mash. Plants should not be planted too deep and not too shallow, so that the “heart” of the seedlings is on the surface of the soil.

Before planting plants, the area can be pre-mulched with light-proof materials. This technique helps to effectively suppress weeds, increase soil moisture and create conditions for good plant development.

This leads to an increase in strawberry yields by more than 30%, the ripening of berries is accelerated by several days, and the degree of damage to them by gray rot is reduced. Polymer film or thermohydrophobic paper is used as mulching materials.

The edges and ends of the mulching materials are sprinkled with soil and the seedlings are planted in the prepared holes in the mulch. Strawberry varieties recommended for cultivation are characterized by high yield, winter hardiness and resistance to pests and diseases.

Caring for plantings of strawberries, Victoria In the spring, it is necessary to remove dry leaves from a plot of fruiting strawberries with a rake and, after the first loosening of the soil, treat the seedlings against diseases and pests. In table

12 lists some of the chemicals used for these purposes. When preparing the soil for planting strawberries, it is advisable to apply 80 to 100 kg of organic fertilizers (rotted manure, compost), 450 g of simple superphosphate and 180 g of potassium chloride to a 10 m2 plot.

In this case, one third of the fertilizer should be incorporated into the soil to a depth of 20-25 cm, and two thirds - to a depth of 10-12 cm. It is not recommended to apply nitrogen fertilizers to strawberries in the first year due to the risk of gray rot affecting the berries.

In addition, nitrogen fertilizers cause vigorous leaf growth. Therefore, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are used during this period. In early spring, they are applied evenly throughout the entire area and covered with a hoe.

In the spring, strawberries of the second year are fed with ammonium nitrate (100 g per 1 m2). This fertilizing can be omitted if a sufficient amount of organic fertilizer is applied before planting.

For third-year strawberries, add 100 g of superphosphate, 100 g of potassium chloride and 150 g of ammonium nitrate per 10 m2. Typically, half of nitrogen fertilizers are applied in the spring, the rest after harvesting.

Starting from the second year after planting, moyasho strawberries should be fed in early spring and after harvesting with a combined liquid fertilizer (1 part mullein to 5 parts water with the addition of 60 g of simple superphosphate and 100-150 g of wood ash to 1 bucket of solution). They feed as follows: make grooves 4-5 cm deep on both sides of the strawberry rows and add a solution of fertilizer into them at the rate of 1 bucket per 3-4 m. After applying the fertilizer, the grooves are covered with earth and watered with water.

A special combined mixture for fruit and berry crops is applied at the rate of 400-500 g per 10 m2, evenly distributed over the area. Additional measures to combat diseases and pests at the beginning of the growing season - cleaning of dry and diseased leaves, at the beginning of flowering - laying out straw in the rows, putting rotten berries in a separate container during harvest and destroying them outside the plantation, applying full mineral fertilizer and watering.

Chemicals used to control diseases and pests. In most regions of the Central Non-Black Earth Region, after harvesting the berries, the leaves are immediately mowed down. This is necessary to reduce the incidence of plant diseases and pests.

The cutting height should be at least 1-2 cm above the level of the horns; leaves are collected and destroyed off-site. In the second half of summer, the tendrils from the rows are moved into rows with a rake, this helps to thicken and expand the rows of young strawberries with the formation of a strip of plants up to 40 cm wide.

In a plot of fruiting strawberries, the mustaches must be removed as they appear up to three times in the summer-autumn period, since the destruction of the mustaches promotes better formation of fruit buds and the development of mother plants. When using film shelters (tunnels), the harvest of one- and two-year-old strawberries ripens 10-12 days earlier and is 70-80% larger than usual.

The simplest types of shelters are tunnels. To equip the tunnel, a wire frame is made over the rows of strawberries. To do this, a wire 4-6 mm thick and 2-2.5 m long is bent into arcs and installed over the rows of strawberries at a distance of about 1 m from one another.

Twine is pulled along the top of the arcs so that the film does not sag. Then the frame is covered with rolled film. It is reinforced from above with the same arches. To more reliably protect plants from adverse weather conditions, you can cover the tunnel with two layers of film.

This is done when the air temperature is minus 5°C. It is advisable to keep the plants under film until the first harvest. However, in case of severe drought, it is necessary to leave the film for the entire harvest period.

During flowering, the film cover must be opened so that the plants are pollinated by bees. In tunnels, caring for plants is made easier if you use perforated (perforated) film (up to 40 holes per 1 linear meter, 26 mm in diameter).

This film does not need to be removed during flowering, since bees have access to flowering plants using holes. Cultivation of remontant varieties (Sakhalinskaya, Inexhaustible, Ada, Druzhba, Arpagoy, etc.) allows for continuous or repeated fruiting in the season.

In the conditions of the Moscow region, for example, the first harvest of berries of these varieties is harvested at the same time as conventional varieties, and the second - from the end of July until the autumn frosts. To obtain a strawberry harvest in the fall, semi-remontant varieties are also used (Talisman, Redgauntlet, Zenga Zengana, Surprise Gallya, Krasavitsa Zagorya, etc.), in which differentiation of fruit buds can take place in the spring-summer period during flowering.

The second harvest will be better if bud differentiation takes place under short day conditions of 10-12 hours for 20 days (plants are covered with light-proof materials) and the air temperature does not exceed 14-16°C. To stimulate re-blooming, you can mow the leaves after the first fruiting.

Film greenhouses allow you to get not one, but two crops per season from the same plants. In the first year, the greenhouse can be used to grow seedlings and then leave the seedlings in a permanent place, so there is no need to dig, store and plant them.

Semi-remontant strawberry varieties (Talisman, Redgauntlet, Zenga Zengana and others) are planted in greenhouses, which, under appropriate conditions, produce a second harvest in 2-2.5 months. after the first, In other crop rotations, plants stored in the refrigerator are used.

They are planted 5-10 days after covering the greenhouse with film when the soil warms up to 7-10°C. The best strawberry plants for forcing in greenhouses are those that have a well-developed bush, with three to five horns, with flower buds that have undergone differentiation (at a 10-12-hour day and a temperature not higher than 12 ° C).

In addition, plants must undergo a dormant period at temperatures from 0 to +5 ° C for 30 days or more. Plants are planted in multi-line ribbons on beds 90 cm wide; for a single forcing they can be placed from 22 to 28 pcs/m2.

If plants are used during two growing seasons, the planting pattern should be two- or three-row with a placement density of 9 to 17 pcs/m2. Due to the growth of bushes in three-line tapes, plantings can be thinned out by removing the middle line after harvesting the first harvest.

This creates better conditions for the remaining plants and makes it possible to grow seal crops. In combined plantings of strawberries and tomatoes, when growing the first crop, the tomato plants are removed after fruiting for two seasons.

During the growing season, plants are regularly watered with water heated to 35-40°C, maintaining an optimal soil moisture of 80% of the total field moisture capacity (FMC) during the period of the beginning of forcing and leaf growth, 70% of the FMC during the period of bud protrusion, 60% of PPV - during flowering and fruiting). On poor soils, plants are fed weekly with complex soluble fertilizers containing nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium (in the ratio 10:5:20:6); they are added in a concentration of 50 g/l, consuming 10 liters of solution per 1 m2.

To prevent the formation of underdeveloped berries, it is necessary to create normal conditions for pollination of flowers, avoiding supercooling of the air or its strong heating, up to 35-40 ° C. Greenhouses need to be ventilated regularly. Artificial pollination is carried out mechanically or with the involvement of bees.

How to care for Victoria in the spring, caring for strawberries. Everyone has a Victoria at their dacha; in the spring, when everything starts to grow, many people have questions caring for Victoria, what should you do? Victoria leaves live 50-60 days a year. The top layer of soil up to 3 cm can be removed, this way you will protect the plantings from pests that overwintered in the litter. In the spring, when the weather permits, you can begin to clean the Victoria from last year's foliage and debris. You can cut off all the foliage, leaving only the growth point. The entire Victoria plantation can be sprinkled with wood ash, (read all about fertilizing with wood ash at the link). Caring for Victoria (strawberry) in spring includes fertilization and mulching. Sprinkling with ash, also sprinkling with sawdust or ordinary humus. But that's it spring care for Victoria (strawberry) does not end. At the beginning of May, Victoria needs to be fed with complex mineral fertilizer. Before the buds open, spray the bushes with a solution of copper sulfate, this way you will prevent diseases of young foliage. When green leaves appear on Victoria bushes, then you need a solution of mullein with ammonium sulfate for each bush. If you trust You can only use natural fertilizers other than wood ash, Fertilize with potassium (sodium) humate. Water the strawberries once a week with warm, settled water. You can water before flowering by sprinkling, but as soon as the flowers appear, you need to water under the bush, excluding getting on the leaves themselves.

Growing and caring for Victoria

Have you decided to plant this wonderful berry on your plot? To do this you need:

Select a location Prepare the soil Purchase planting material

The distance between the rows is 50-60 centimeters, between the rosettes - 30. In order for the rosette to be well accepted, we dip its roots in a mixture of mullein and clay.

We make the mixture at the rate of 1 bucket of clay per 0.5 bucket of mullein, dilute with water to a creamy consistency. After planting, water generously. Then water as it dries.

I, Galina Nikolaevna Sukhova, have vast experience in farming, which I generously share on the pages of my website

Proper care of Victoria - a rich harvest

It will allow you to get a rich harvest, from planting and watering to harvesting. It is no secret that Victoria has many beneficial properties, not to mention its excellent taste.

Victoria landing

The first 2 - 3 rosettes from the main plant are considered the most suitable for propagation. The most suitable are the tendrils from two-year-old bushes. When a rosette has 4-6 leaves, it should be cut off from the tendril and, together with a lump of earth, planted in a prepared hole in a permanent place. Victoria is usually planted in spring or autumn, with preliminary soil preparation.

If spring planting is planned, then the soil should be prepared in the fall; if it is autumn, then the site is prepared in June. 6 kg of humus and mineral fertilizers are added to the dug up soil per square meter: potassium salt and ammonium nitrate, 20 grams each, plus 25 grams of superphosphate. In order to make it convenient to care for the plants, they are planted in rows like ridges, up to 10 cm high. Between the bushes you should leave 20 - 30 cm, with a row spacing of 60 - 70 cm.

Victoria care and watering

Victoria is very picky about care and watering. If you regularly carry out work to conserve moisture by loosening the soil, mulching, snow retention, and removing weeds, you can do without watering.

The mulch thickness should be 5 - 8 cm. After harvesting, the soil around the bushes should be loosened. When the roots are exposed, the plant must be earthed up.

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How to care for Victoria?

Victoria is one of the famous varieties of garden strawberries. Due to the wide distribution of this variety, the name is firmly attached in everyday life to garden strawberries in general. In order for the harvest of this berry to please you with quantity and quality, you need to know how to care for Victoria correctly.

How to properly care for Victoria

Watering Victoria

Victoria is very demanding when it comes to care and watering. If it is not always possible to water it, then it is necessary to carry out work to preserve moisture in the soil. Loosening the soil, covering the ground with snow, timely removal of weeds, and mulching can help you with this.

As a rule, watering strawberries 9 - 10 times per season allows you to get a rich harvest. For watering, you can use a garden watering can without a nozzle and carefully water directly under the root of the plant.

How to care for Victoria in the fall

After the flowering season, the soil must be mulched with dry moss, straw or wood shavings. This simple procedure will protect the berries from infection with gray rot.

Closer to mid-autumn, it is necessary to re-mulch using waste from grain production or peat. The thickness of the mulch layer should be about 5 - 8 cm. When mulching, remember that Victoria leaves should not be covered.

After harvesting, it is necessary to loosen the compacted soil around the plants. If the roots of the plant are exposed, it must be earthed up. To maintain good yield, Victoria beds must be weeded regularly.

When weeding, you can use mini-hoes and garden rippers.

How to care for Victoria in spring

In order to ensure flowering of the bushes and active berry set, Victoria bushes can be treated with boric acid in the spring. And before flowering and during the ovary period, it is useful to treat Victoria with zinc sulfate. Also in the spring, after harvesting the leaves, you can fertilize the soil.

Victoria landing

Propagation of Victoria strawberries occurs with the help of mustaches that grow on the plant by mid-summer. On these tendrils there are nodes from which leaves and roots actually grow.

Two or three rosettes located near the mother plant are considered to be of the highest quality for propagation. It is better to take tendrils from plants of the 2nd year.

After 4 - 6 leaves appear on the rosette, it needs to be separated from the mother plant and transplanted to a prepared place. In order not to damage the roots, the rosettes must be dug out together with a lump of earth and planted in prepared and spilled holes. Victoria is planted in spring or autumn.

For more comfortable planting in spring, the soil must be prepared in the fall (dig up, harrow). If you decide to plant Victoria in the fall, then you can prepare the site in June. Also, when preparing the site, it will not be a bad idea to apply fertilizer. For good growth and development of Victoria, it is necessary to apply per 1 m2:

20 g ammonium nitrate 25 g superphosphate 6 kg humus

To ensure comfortable access to plants when watering or weeding, it is better to plant Victoria in even rows of small ridges of earth 7 - 10 cm high. The distance between the rows should be about 60 - 70 cm, and between two planted plants - 20 - 30 cm. For more detailed information For ideas about planting Victoria, you can watch a video for beginner gardeners.

Selecting a site for planting

It is best to plant garden strawberries on a flat area that has a slight slope to the west. This feature of the surface of the site will allow the strawberry leaves to receive more sunlight in the afternoon.

It is also advisable that the site be protected from the wind. Victoria feels most comfortable on sandy loam soils with a high humus content.

Victoria – a delicious victory with little secrets

Greetings, dear readers! One of the first varieties of well-known garden strawberries is the Victoria berry. Victoria fruits have an extraordinary aroma and look beautiful and appetizing on a plate.

Its taste is gone, but its benefits are immeasurable. When consumed, carefully rinse the fruits under running water. You can use garden strawberries for fasting days due to their low calorie content.

Drinking a decoction of berries and leaves will help you lose extra pounds.

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We grow Victoria: three kilograms per bush

Irina Lebedeva, an accountant by profession and a gardener by vocation, has been growing Victoria for 40 years. But even with such experience, it is recognized that the results are different and depend on weather conditions, seedlings or seeds.

That is why he does not like to experiment and plants exclusively early varieties. She inherited a plot of 12 acres in the village of Krasnoye from her parents. There she and her husband Sergei Vladimirovich spend every summer.

During this time, up to 3 kg of berries are collected from one bush. At the same time, the berries are large in size - about the size of a child’s fist. “Victoria, or, scientifically speaking, large-fruited garden strawberries, is one of my favorite berries,” says Irina Alexandrovna. — Despite the fact that there is not so much space on the site, I allocated 3 beds for her, so that there would be enough not only to eat freshly, but also to make preparations for the winter.

When and where to plant— I usually plant in early May. I believe that the earlier it is planted, the better it develops. I plant in the evening so that the strawberries can acclimatize overnight. - It’s better to prepare the beds in the fall, and immediately start planting in the spring.

Strawberries love a sunny, open place. It is advisable to direct the garden bed from south to north. It is in this location that it makes maximum use of solar energy.

Try not to plant it under an apple or cherry tree. Soil moisture is another important factor. If groundwater is close, then the bed needs to be raised to 30-35 cm to prevent root rotting.

In dry places, the beds are low - 8-10 cm. It is better to plant seedlings grown using the Frigo technology in the spring (read more about it on our website). Grown by tendrils or seeds, if the plant’s roots are strong, it can be planted right now so that the plant is ready for the drop in temperature in September. Plants planted now need to be fed with microelements for berry crops, for example “Gumi-omi”.

You can treat the beds with special chemicals to prevent diseases and pests, for example “Fufanon”, “Ordan”, “Abiga-Pik”. How to plant— I make the distance between the rows 60 cm, and between the plants in the row — 20 cm. I make the depth of the hole along the entire length of the root.

I dip the root of the plant in a solution of mullein or humus with soil. I add 1 tbsp to the hole. l. "Agrovit-Kora" or a pinch of "Kemira-Universal". I plant it so that the growing point is at soil level.

Shallow or, conversely, deep planting leads to the death of plants or to their poor development. After planting, I water it with water - 250 ml per plant as the soil dries. - First of all, we note that the key to a large harvest is high-quality, healthy planting material.

In our case, this means a developed root system of at least 15 cm and a small rosette of leaves. The distance between plants should be a little larger than Irina does: between rows - 70 cm, and between plants in a row - 30 cm.

When it is planted less often, it gets sick less often, gives more harvest, and the distance promotes ventilation and good lighting. First, weeds are removed from the garden bed, then they are leveled and holes are made depending on the size of the root, that is, along its entire length. Then compost (a couple of scoops), ash (half a matchbox for one hole) and a little earth are placed in this hole.

This whole mass is mixed, watered and only then the strawberries are planted. Then they are covered with soil and watered again. Before planting on a summer cottage, you need to draw up a plan and observe crop rotation. That is, alternate certain crops in the beds.

Strawberries can be planted after any predecessors, except nightshades (potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, petunia, tobacco). But you can’t plant it next to raspberries, because they have the same pests.

Before flower stalks form, you need to water them with a watering can, and after they appear, with a ladle under the root. The maximum yield of strawberries is the first two years, and then the yield declines, and the risk of pests increases. You can plant strawberries in the same bed where they grew after 2 seasons.

Before that, you can plant garlic or mustard, which will improve the health of the soil. You can also grow strawberries where legumes were planted the previous season. How to prepare for winter?

— In the fall, when the temperature reaches 2-5 C, I cover the bed with “Agrotex” (covering material). And in the spring, when the snow melts, I remove it. - Each summer resident has his own way of mulching (coating the soil with a protective layer) of strawberries - mowed lawn grass, sawdust from deciduous trees, hay.

But one of the tools that will save the gardener from unnecessary trouble is Kostravit-M1 mulch. It protects the soil from overheating, retains moisture longer, protects from pests and suppresses the growth of weeds. Mulch will also save strawberries from freezing in winter.

The recommended thickness of the mulch layer is 1.5-2 cm in spring, and 3 cm before winter. Which varieties to choose? This year Irina Alexandrovna did not have many berries, but they were all very large, about 8 cm in length.

The owner believes that this is the merit of the variety, which has not let her down for the 2nd season. Despite the dimensions, the taste does not become worse.

The main varieties that Irina Aleksandrovna uses are “Gigantella” and “Festivalnaya”. All varieties are divided into 4 groups: early, medium, late ripening and remontant. It all depends on the preference of the summer resident, what kind of strawberries he wants to see on his plot. Early varieties ripen at the end of June - these are “Kimberly”, “Corona”, “Olvia”.

The berries are sweet, large, bright red, winter-hardy. The medium berries ripen in early July - “Rusich”, “Black Swong”, “Vima-Zanta”, “Zenga-Zengana”. Berries from 20 g, sweet and sour taste, average winter hardiness. Late - in mid-July - “Vima Tarda”, “Vikoda”, “Charlotte”.

The berries are medium size, sweet and sour taste, good winter hardiness. Remontant garden strawberry. She gives berries a little at a time, but all summer long. Also, their peculiarity is that the berries are larger and sweeter than those of ordinary varieties.

Blooms from May to October: “Vima-Rina”, “Geneva”, “Moscow delicacy”, “Brighton”, “Queen Elizabeth II”. How to reproduce? Irina Aleksandrovna propagates strawberries with mustaches.

Just now I transplanted it to the bed where the onions grew. “This method has many disadvantages, although it is easy to use. After 3 generations, the berry begins to lose its properties.

They become smaller, the taste deteriorates, productivity declines, and susceptibility to disease increases. The next disadvantage is the transfer of diseases from bed to bed.

The strawberries on which gardeners leave tendrils spend their energy not on laying fruit buds, but on feeding their young shoots. To avoid these problems, it is necessary to update the planting material, that is, take seedlings of the first reproduction. They give maximum yield.

Seedlings of this class can be found today. Sellers must have varietal certificates confirming this. There is another modern method - the new frigo technology (translated as “cold”).

Throughout the summer, farmers grow strawberries in open ground in their nurseries. During this time, she is not allowed to give away the harvest, and her mustache is removed. Then the strawberries are dug up, the leaves are cut off, and the seedlings are stored in the refrigerator.

And in this state it is stored until the moment when it needs to be planted. To us, in Udmurtia, frozen roots are brought from a Dutch nursery in the spring. After planting it, gardeners receive a guaranteed harvest within two months.

You can make an application for the purchase of seedlings of 1 reproduction using frigo technology by calling the Agricultural Academy 55-02-07 (average price - 25-35 rubles per seedling). How to care? Twice a season, Irina Aleksandrovna makes liquid fertilizer for strawberries.

The first time - in May, before flowering, and the second time - in early July, after harvesting. - For liquid feeding of strawberries, I use fresh chicken manure. I water the beds well a few hours before fertilizing.

Then, in 10 liters of water, I carefully stir a portion of fresh chicken manure at a rate of 1:10 and water it evenly from a watering can. After harvesting, I remove all the weeds, loosen the soil around all the bushes and cover them with a small layer of cow manure to fertilize the soil.

I do not use any chemicals. - Experts advise feeding strawberries in the spring with nitrogen fertilizers in accordance with the instructions on the package (for example, AFK 16-16-16, 10 grams per square meter). But don't overdo it.

They also recommend regularly adding a complex of microelements for berry crops, for example “Gumi-omi”. After harvesting, the harvest can be treated with special chemicals to prevent diseases and pests, for example “Fufanon”, “Ordan”, “Abiga Peak”.

How to get rid of pests Irina Aleksandrovna is sure that pests do not touch Victoria, because every three years she transplants it to a new place. The main pests of strawberries are the larvae of the May beetle (Khrushchi). When digging the beds, you need to remove the larvae manually.

Another method of control is to cover the beds during the flight of beetles in May with covering material, film or roofing felt. Another enemy of strawberries is nematodes - small worms. It is very difficult to fight them. The main way is to observe crop rotation.

Eliminate the bed after 3-4 years of fruiting and burn the remains of the plants. You can get rid of them with a folk remedy - pour a decoction of marigolds or plant marigolds in a future garden bed for several months.

Before planting, when preparing the bed, you can plant it, for example, with mustard, it heals the soil. In a month, you can dig everything up and plant strawberry seedlings.

They are attacked by the strawberry mite. Small insects actively reproduce when there is too much moisture in the berry beds or when the weather is humid outside. The mite lives on the tendrils and rosettes of berry crops.

In the spring, a spider mite often appears, sucking the juice from, and the pest entangles the inside of the leaves with cobwebs. All this leads to the death of plants, or, at best, to a decrease in yield.

The raspberry-strawberry weevil spoils not only strawberries. The insect feeds on leaves and buds. In addition, females lay eggs in the buds.

If a weevil is infested in a dacha or garden, you may not expect a berry harvest. This pest can harm all flowering berry crops.

Snails, slugs, ants and centipedes are also not averse to eating juicy strawberries. They feed mainly on fruits, causing significant damage to the crop. If you deal with them in time, you can do without any major losses.

Strawberry nematode is an equally dangerous enemy of strawberries. Small worms, about 1 mm long, live in the green part of plants. The pest can be identified by characteristic reddish spots on the leaves.

Strawberry pest control methods

Irrigation of the above-ground parts of plants with a tincture of tops will help get rid of strawberry mites. Fill 1 kg of last year's tops with 10 liters of warm, but not hot water. Let it brew for at least 4 hours, put it on low heat and boil. Strain the resulting broth, dilute it with water 1:1 and add 40 g of laundry soap. Spray the strawberries - the treatment should be carried out twice with an interval of 7 days.

When fighting spider mites, strawberries can be sprayed with infusions of tobacco or wormwood, but this is not always effective. After flowering, it is best to treat with Fitoverm, and in the fall with Karbofos.

Check the dosage in the instructions found on the package or enclosed piece of paper.

Getting rid of weevils is not difficult. Take 1 kg of wormwood, add 4 liters of water and boil for 10 minutes. Strain and add 50 g of laundry soap - it prevents the broth from immediately draining from the leaves. Spray the plantings.

Use copper sulfate to kill snails, slugs, ants and other crawling pests that live on strawberries. Spray a thin layer of powder onto the soil between the rows. If there are too many pests, pollinate the leaves themselves with copper sulfate, and after a few hours, water the plantings.

Getting rid of strawberry nematode is difficult. If the plants are already damaged, all that remains is to dig them up and burn them, and treat the area with bleach. After purchasing seedlings, be sure to wash off the remaining soil from the roots with salt water - 5 tablespoons of salt per 5 liters of water. It wouldn't hurt to wash the leaves too.

Hello, dear gardeners! It's time to harvest the strawberries. In order for this berry to retain its qualities and continue to produce a bountiful harvest, it is necessary to properly care for the strawberries after harvesting. Today we will talk about this.

Features of care

After harvesting, Victoria bushes need special care if you also want to enjoy the juicy fruits in the future. At the end of the season it becomes weak and overgrown with weeds. The first question for gardeners is: what to do?

First, remove the mulch.
Then get rid of the weeds.
Loosen the soil between the rows.

After the initial activities, try to restore the strength of the green mass. How to care after picking berries? Immediately after fruiting, it is necessary to trim the mustaches and bushes.

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Proper pruning

Pruning is carried out at the end of August or at the very beginning of September. Before pruning, remove all dry and damaged leaves. When to cut leaves is also an important question. If your plant has been “living” for the second year, then pruning the foliage is mandatory. The first year seedlings leave for the winter unpruned.

Pruning is carried out so that it remains part of a bush 5-6 cm high. Take a sharp pruner and cut!

Some gardeners mow the entire Victoria plantation. Do you need to mow? Of course not! You can mow down the first year seedlings, and this is completely unacceptable.

When to prune shoots? At the end of August, you need to start trimming the mustaches; if this is not done, they will greatly weaken the strawberry bush. Leave the strongest shoots. Don’t leave too much, otherwise they will draw all the strength from the mother seedling.

Do I need to trim my mustache at the root? Cut the shoots with pruning shears as low to the ground as possible.

How to water strawberries at the end of the growing season? During this period, proper watering is very important. You shouldn’t water often, once every 14 days is enough, but plenty!

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Pest treatment

In August or September, seedlings should be treated. Viral and fungal diseases that stick to weakened plants are especially dangerous. Carry out comprehensive disease prevention "Nitrafen".

Powdery mildew most often affects. What to spray against powdery mildew. Use as an additional remedy "Topaz".

As a preventive measure at the end of the season it should be treated karbofos or "Aktellikom".

If you see gray rot on at least one berry, then do not expect damage to the entire crop or the disease spreading to the next season. This is a very dangerous fungus.

When a smoky layer appears on the berries, immediate treatment for diseases is required. First, remove spoiled leaves and weeds along with the roots. Burn it all, just don’t put it in the compost pile! Then spray with the drug "Alirin-B".

Treatment with the drug is carried out before and after flowering. The procedure should be repeated 2 weeks after the first spraying. Dilute 2 tablets of the drug in 1 liter of water.

To save the plantation, carry out 2 treatments per season.

The drug "Switch" plants are also treated before and after flowering with an interval of 7 days. 10 g of product per 5 liters of water is enough. After harvesting, also spray the area with one of these products.

Can be sprayed in autumn Bordeaux mixture so that next year your beds will be clean and productive.

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Folk recipes

Many gardeners are generally against the use of chemicals.

The usual one will protect you from all diseases. iodine- 15 drops per bucket of water. The procedure is carried out 2-3 times before flowering. It is not carried out at the stage of berry formation, as there is no need.
Milk serum-1 glass per bucket of water. Can be enhanced with 2-3 drops of iodine.
Potassium permangantsovka- pink solution + 5-6 drops of boric acid. Treat before flowering.
+ laundry soap. Chop a few cloves of garlic and cover with water for 7 days. After a week, pour water into a bucket, cut a piece of laundry soap for better adhesion.
Helps save strawberries from gray rot solution: 50 g of powder per 5 liters of hot water. Let it brew for 48 hours, then add 5 liters of water. Use before or after flowering, and also when the berries begin to fill with juice.

Preventive measures against diseases

The first thing to do is choose the right area for planting. Choose a well-lit, ventilated area. The best place is the middle of the territory with nutritious, loose soil.
During the formation of berries, mulch the rows with a thin layer straw, sawdust or pine needles so that the fruits do not lie on the ground.
Dust the soil between the plants tree resin.
Plant it nearby.

These simple techniques will also help protect the harvest.

Fertilizing is an important stage in strawberry care.

https://youtu.be/fLAJeJuuor4

What to feed after picking berries? Severely weakened Victoria especially needs feeding. It is customary to feed this crop with organic matter in August – September. This could be chicken droppings, mullein or horse manure.

Horse and cow manure You can simply lay it out between the rows and under each bush. Autumn rains will soak pieces of manure, delivering nutrients to the roots. But chicken manure will have to be diluted with water in a ratio of 1:20. Water this way: a bucket for 8-10 seedlings.

Many gardeners choose mineral fertilizer. They simply scatter it over the planting area, then go over it with a hoe and water it generously. To prevent crust formation, plantings are covered peat or pine needles. Instead of organic matter, they often add ammophoska.

Important! In autumn, strawberries are fertilized only once, on any day after harvest.

Remontant strawberries - the love of gardeners

The remontant strawberry is attractive because it produces 2-3 harvests per season. The only depressing thing is that she is too vulnerable to disease. No matter what, more and more gardeners are growing it.

The first harvest can be harvested in July, and the second at the end of August. But between these periods, you can also enjoy ripe berries.

Remontant varieties NSD are most often grown. And if you want to make preparations for the winter, then choose DSD varieties. The disadvantage of this type of Victoria is its short life span due to severe exhaustion. But proper care will help you enjoy the fruits for 3 or more years.

If you decide to grow this crop, then you will need to start planting in early September to allow it to take root. It can be propagated by bushes and mustaches.

The famous agricultural technician Ganichkina helps to grow excellent harvests of many crops, so let’s listen to her advice.

After fruiting, strawberries need to be prepared for the next harvest year. Oktyabrina offers to produce removal of foliage and shoots. When the bushes are free of fruit, it’s time to trim the mustache. To do this, you should cut them off at the very base of the bush, and repeat several times. This is done so as not to reduce next year's harvest.

Pruning leaves is also an important aspect of care. This manipulation should be carried out after fruiting, during the formation of fruit buds. Infected leaves of the crop should also be trimmed. This is done 2-2.5 months after harvesting the fruits, when the leaves turn red.

Watering the plantings should also be plentiful - once a week. Feeding is carried out in the same way as with a regular Victoria.