Do-it-yourself 2 by 3 change house diagram. Do-it-yourself change house: step-by-step instructions for building change houses from different materials. Timber and log cabins

Many people have summer cottages outside the city, but not all of them are equipped for living. Some use the land as a vegetable garden, while others are just planning to build a house on it. But coming to the dacha in the morning and then leaving in the evening back to the city is not convenient for everyone, and sometimes you don’t even want to. After all, spending time away from the bustle of the city, enjoying fresh air and birdsong in the garden is a pleasure.

But to come to the dacha and stay there for a while, you will need shelter. The construction of a full-fledged residential building will take a lot of time and money, but equipping a small country house from a change house will appeal to every owner of a country plot of land.

A house from a change house can become either a permanent place of residence in a country house during the warm season, or temporary while a full-fledged residential building is being built. It is worth noting that you can live in a change house throughout the entire calendar year if you equip it with heating, electricity and water supply. And after the construction of the cottage is completed, the change house can be sold or left as a utility room. Read more about what a change house is, what it is made of and how such a country house is used in our article.

A small country house from a change house, equipped with an open terrace

Types of cabins

Manufacturers offer a fairly wide range of cabins that can be equipped with everything necessary for both permanent and temporary residence. According to their purpose, cabins are divided into:

intended for country utility premises;

residential cabins for temporary residence of workers or the owner himself.

can play the role of a manager’s or foreman’s office.

Change houses also come in construction, country and block containers, and according to their design they are divided into:

frame.

• lumber.

Most often, the cabins are manufactured at the factory and if you decide to order them, they will be delivered by truck already assembled. As for the dimensions of the cabins, they are calculated so that the structure can easily fit into the back of a truck or trailer.

Features of block containers

For some reason, the very word “container” is immediately associated with metal and the idea appears that it will be very hot in the summer and cold in the winter. But not all containers are metal; moreover, their walls and ceilings are insulated and finished both inside and outside. Manufacturers of modular containers take utmost care to ensure that the use of such cabins is as comfortable as possible.

Metal container block used as a utility unit

As mentioned above, block containers are not only made of metal, they are also made of wood. Metal structures are most often used as construction cabins, the standard dimensions of which are 2.5x6 m, and the ceiling height is 2.2 m. As has already become clear, the frame of such cabins consists of metal, the outside of the structure is finished with galvanized corrugated sheets, and the inside is covered with dry wooden lining , PVC panels or fiberboard, MDF paneling or hardboard. Mineral wool is used as insulation. The doors of the cabin are made of fiberboard, and the windows, measuring 1x1.2 m, are equipped with double glazed windows. Buyers are given the opportunity to install partitions in the change house to create several rooms.

Manufacturers of metal block containers provide a five-year warranty on the operation of the cabin.

People most often buy a residential trailer made of wood when they are going to build a summer house or to live in them on a country plot during the warm season during vacation. Therefore, such cabins are also called “country houses”. Wooden block containers are also used as utility units, summer kitchens, or equipped with everything necessary for year-round living.

Wood structures are much warmer and lighter than metal ones. Wooden lining is used as finishing both outside and inside. As for the dimensions of the cabin and the size of the windows, they are the same for metal and wooden block containers.

Block containers can be used for more than fifteen years. Entire modular houses are built from such cabins by connecting them together and removing partitions. And if you put the structures on top of each other, you will get a two-story house.

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer house design services. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

A small country house made of two block containers with a canopy and an open terrace on the second floor

Country cabins

Like block containers, country cabins are made of metal and wood.

The latter are best used for living in the warm season, and metal cabins are excellent for year-round use. Metal structures, thanks to corrugated sheeting, better withstand changes in weather conditions.

The interior of the country cabins is finished with fiberboard or wooden lining. The latter finishing option is more suitable for permanent residence. Country cabins have separate rooms, a utility block, a toilet and a shower, and this is their main feature.

Wooden country houses, in turn, are divided into frame, panel and timber.

Panel dacha cabins

The cheapest type of wooden country house is a panel house. Such structures are not designed for long-term use, but due to their low cost they are in great demand among summer residents during the construction of a house. For the exterior finishing of panel structures, they do not use solid lining, but the inside of the walls is sheathed with fiberboard.

Foam plastic or glass wool is used as insulation. The floor in the cabin is made of planks, 21 mm thick, and the roof is iron. Country panel houses are highly susceptible to changes in geometric dimensions, since their design does not provide stiffening ribs.

Frame type country houses

The most optimal option in terms of price and quality is a frame country house. A wooden beam measuring 50x50 mm is used as a base, giving the structure stability and the ability to withstand loads.

The final cost of a frame cabin depends on the material used for interior and exterior decoration. Manufacturers offer a choice of fiberboard, plywood or lining.

Important! The most expensive finishing option is lining, which, if the cabin shrinks, does not swell or bulge like other materials, which also absorb moisture well and change their geometric dimensions.

The floor in the frame change house is double - consists of rough and finishing floor boards measuring 32 mm. A layer of mineral wool 50 mm thick is used as insulation for walls, floors and ceilings. The structure also has a vapor barrier - glassine or polyethylene film.

Summer cottages made of timber

The most expensive, but at the same time more durable, is a country house made of coniferous timber measuring 100x150 mm. Wall decoration in this design is usually not provided, and the ceiling, doors and internal partitions of the country house are made of lining. Manufacturers offer to choose the type of roof - single- or double-slope, but the first is usually used for buildings up to 5 m.

If a log cabin is installed in an area where the winter air temperature does not drop below -10 degrees, then you can do without additional insulation of the structure, but only on the condition that the production process was not disrupted during the manufacture of temporary housing. If the timber is tightly laid and secured with metal staples, and the seams are insulated with tow or flax, only in this case can you count on high strength and heat retention inside the room.

How change houses are equipped for a residential building

For a comfortable stay, cabins made from cabins are equipped with all necessary communications, divide the total area into rooms, and connect several cabins into one solid structure. Minimum number of rooms in a country house:

• kitchen;
• bedroom;
• bathroom;
• utility block

A bedroom in a country house can be equipped under the ceiling

If more than two people live in a cabin, then due to limited space, bunk beds are installed in the bedroom; for this, a room width of 2.5 meters is quite sufficient. Country houses made from cabins must be connected to the following communications:

• electricity;
• water supply;
• sewerage

To eliminate the occurrence of emergency situations, communications must be connected by specialists.

In a country house, it is necessary to make heating out of the change house, which is often a conventional solid fuel stove. If there is a backup source of electricity in case of a power outage, then the shed should be heated using electric heaters.

Video description

Watch the video for a selection of country houses from cabins:

It is possible to install a hot water boiler and a radiator system. This option is especially convenient when the house is built from two or more cabins. In this case, one boiler is sufficient, in which the heated coolant will be transferred through pipes to the combined rooms.

Country house made from a cabin, equipped with a solid fuel stove

The advantage of using several cabins on the site is the possibility of combining them with each other without compromising strength.

The use of two cabins, which are installed at a distance of 3 m from each other, can significantly increase the living space of the house. When equipping such a country house, you can accommodate significantly more people due to the fact that the kitchen and bathroom will be equipped in a separate shed.

To ensure that the space between the containers is also used for its intended purpose, two walls are made that will unite the cabins, and a common roof is mounted on top. Thus, the house turns out to be quite suitable for living throughout the year.

The space between the cabins can be used not only for living, but also for placing a car. In this case, instead of one wall connecting the cabins, it is necessary to equip a gate. Also, the middle part can be used as a storage room or workshop.

Video description

The construction of a house from several cabins is clearly shown:

If a house consisting of two cabins will be used by only one or two people, then it is advisable to heat only one cabin and use the rest of the space exclusively for economic purposes.

A house of two cabins with a common gable roof

A house of two cabins with an open terrace in the middle

Variants of houses from cabins - photo examples

When choosing a house from cabins, you can go through projects endlessly, especially if you want something original and comfortable. Manufacturers of cabins offer consumers a huge number of different functional options for country houses, from standard to large and two-tiered. If you order several cabins at once to furnish one house, you will be offered many ready-made solutions for connecting them.

In the photo below is a project of a change house with a canopy. By extending the roof a little, you can install a canopy that will protect the front door from precipitation. Aesthetically, this design looks much better than a standard change house.

If the cabins are placed at right angles, as in the photo below, you will get a very interesting design.

From several cabins you can make a permanent modular structure suitable for year-round use.

If you need to accommodate a large number of people in a small area, you can install a two-story building.

Multi-storey buildings can be built from cabin modules to accommodate workers.

Conclusion

Cabin houses are very popular. Firstly, this is an inexpensive and convenient option for temporary residence, housing workers, equipping a summer kitchen in a private household or utility room. Secondly, several cabins make quite original houses for permanent residence. And most importantly, the cabins are mobile; if you need to move your cabin to another site or even to another city, this is easy to do by hiring a truck.

If you purchased a plot of land without buildings, the question arises of where to live at first or store the necessary tools. A summer cottage will help solve this problem. It’s quite simple to build it with your own hands, the main thing is to make the correct calculation of the amount of materials, purchase them and start construction.

Determining the size of the structure, preparing the territory

It is important to choose the right place. The future building should not be located in a low area; allocate a flat area for it, then the preparatory work will take a minimum of time. It is better not to install a change house in an area of ​​strong cross winds, on an open hill.

Inspect the area where the cabin will be built with your own hands. If there are bushes on it, they need to be dug up, trees cut down, stumps uprooted. After this, you can begin marking the site for construction.

Usually the cabins are made small, for example, 6 x 3 meters. The size depends on the purpose of the future house. If it will house a utility unit and store tools, then it can be even smaller. A cabin built with your own hands can consist of two rooms: residential and utility. This size is enough for temporary residence of a small family.

Pegs are driven into the corners of the perimeter of the future building, and a rope is pulled along them. It is necessary to align the lines, two opposite sides must be strictly parallel, the other two must be perpendicular to them. For accuracy of measurements, the rope is pulled not only along the perimeter, but also along the diagonals. Once the boundary of the future structure has been determined, the next stage of work begins.

Construction of the foundation

When deciding how to build a shed with your own hands, it is important to think about what it will stand on. A foundation is necessary, but for such a light structure a columnar one is sufficient. You can make it as poured or from ready-made blocks.

The pillars are installed in the corners, along the perimeter, in the center every 1.5-2 meters and on both sides of the front door. If you want to make a poured foundation, you need to dig holes in these places. Depending on the type of soil, they can be from 20 to 170 cm deep. The latter method is preferable in places with high groundwater levels, but it is expensive. Therefore, it is better to make a shallow foundation, removing the soil by 20-50 cm. Next, asbestos-cement pipes are installed in these holes, filled with crushed stone to 7 cm, compacted, then sand to 10 cm and spilled with water. After this, concrete is poured on top and allowed to dry completely.

Even a shallow poured columnar foundation will require quite a lot of physical effort. A change house built with your own hands usually stands perfectly on ready-made concrete blocks measuring 20x20x40 cm. A cushion of sand and crushed stone is made under them, then the blocks are laid horizontally in twos - one on top of the other.

Level is in progress

After the concrete has completely dried (in the case of a poured foundation), proceed to the next stage. Pieces of roofing felt, folded in half, are placed on pillars made of concrete or blocks. This is necessary so that the beams placed on top do not rot at the points of contact with the foundation.

Now you need to lay long boards on the pillars and check with a level whether the surface is even. If not, install some blocks a little lower, digging them up from the sides or simply jumping. This method is suitable when the foundation consists of ready-made blocks. If you made poured pillars, then check the evenness of the surface with a level at the time of concreting them.

How to make a harness

The construction of a change house with your own hands is moving on to the next stage. Place timber 100 x 150 mm thick around the perimeter. If you are building a small structure 6 by 3 meters, then you will need three 6-meter beams - 2 at the edges and one in the center; as well as two 3-meter ones. At the joints you need to cut out and then cut out part of the upper and lower beams in half height to get a flat surface. In the same way, connect the six-meter central beam with the outer three-meter beams.

Now make a second crown from 100 x 100 mm timber, laying it around the perimeter. In the six-meter ones, cut out small recesses to place the edges of the floor joists in them. In this example, they consist of three-meter beams, they are nailed in 1-meter increments.

How to knock down a frame

The drawings will help you understand how to make a change house with your own hands. The next stage is the fastening of the vertical beams. They can be 100 x 100 mm or 100 x 150 mm. Place the first one, attach it with metal corners and screws. In order for this post to stand firmly, it is necessary to nail one side of the rail just below its top, and the other to the corresponding side of the strapping. Nail the second picket on the other side at the top of this vertical beam, and its lower edge to the corresponding trim beam.

In this way, vertical posts are placed in the corners and every 2 meters; secure them with long screws or nails. If you are making a gable roof, then these vertical beams will be at the same height, if you are making a pitched roof, then on one side of the long wall they will be the same, and those on the opposite side will be lower than the data.

Lay the floor beams horizontally on a row of vertical timber on one side and nail them in place. On the opposite side, arrange them in the same way. Where there will be windows and a door, you need to install additional vertical bars.

Roof and floor

The change house, made with your own hands, will be ready very soon. But first, thick boards - rafters - must be placed on the floor beams every meter. Typically their dimensions are 50 x 100 mm. Nail the roofing sheathing across the rafters. It can be made from galvanized iron, ondulin. Do not forget to lay waterproofing between the board and the roofing material. To build a gable roof, you need to cut the ends of the rafters at an angle of 45° and connect them, knocking them down in pairs at the top.

Before installing the floor, do not forget to treat the parts with an antiseptic and let it dry. Then attach and nail the rough boards close to each other, spread a waterproofing film on them, insulation on it, and a waterproofing film is also placed on top. Then the finished floor is laid, for example, from Euro-boards. Here's how to build a change house with your own hands, there's just a little bit left.

Internal and external walls

The walls also need to be insulated. To do this, they are first upholstered on the outside with clapboard, then a waterproofing film is stapled on the inside, a layer of insulation is placed on it, and a film is placed on it. The interior walls are also covered with clapboard. Instead of boards, chipboard panels are also used.

In this case, the walls may not be insulated or the outside may be upholstered with finishing materials, for example, imitation timber. All that remains is to insert window frames with glass, a door, treat the walls with an antiseptic composition of the desired color, and you can admire your creation.

DIY change house - calculation of materials

This important issue also needs to be addressed. If you decide to build a 6 x 3 meter building, depending on the type of columnar foundation you choose, you will need a certain amount of sand and crushed stone. For a block one, a cubic meter of both is enough, as well as 24 blocks.

• 3 six-meter, thickness 100 x 150 mm;
• 2 three-meter 100 x 150 mm;
• 10 measuring 100 x 100 mm - racks.

For the floor joists and upper horizontal floor beams you need 10 boards measuring 50 x 100 mm and the same number for the rafters.

Here's what you need to buy to build a cabin with your own hands. The calculation of materials also includes boards for rough and finished floors, and for roof sheathing. Insulation, waterproofing, door, nails, screws, window frames and roofing material complete the list.

A change house is an indispensable thing for storing construction or garden tools, while you can hide in it from the rain, take a nap, or just relax. You can even spend the night in it if necessary. And if you have a team of construction workers working on your site, then you can place them in a homemade cabin for an overnight stay, saving on transportation costs and extending the working day.

Self-assembly according to drawing

The easiest way is to make a wooden structure using frame construction technology. The difference between a frame change house and an ordinary small frame house will be the lack of a foundation and its size. The role of a columnar foundation can be performed by placed bricks.

First of all we will make the floor panel. It will consist of chipboard or OSB-3 panels, boards, between which we place insulation and waterproofing. You can save money on a vapor barrier, since this room is not intended for permanent residence.

Instead of expensive synthetic insulation (mineral wool), you can use sawdust. Instead of waterproofing - a regular film.

When the floor is ready, we proceed to the walls. We make the frame of the cabin from timber or boards 100x150. The easiest way is to make a wall separately on the ground, in this case it is much easier to check the geometry, the evenness of the corners and diagonals. When the wall frame is ready, we install it and check the verticality again. The angle between the wall and the floor should be exactly 90 degrees.

We install all 4 walls one by one according to the drawings. The finished frame of the change house must be connected into one structure using the upper frame. We perform the strapping with a board or timber. For it to be level, the walls must be the same height. If some wall is lower, we place a wooden chip, block or part of the board under the lining board.

After installing all the walls, we begin to make the roof. The roof can be gable or single-pitch, for which we attach several boards or beams to the top of one of the walls. Thus, by raising one of the walls, we form a roof slope.

If you plan to use the change house only in the summer, the roof can be made flat without slope.

Tip: Use foam sheets along with mineral wool. They will serve not only as insulation, but also as complete wind protection.

The roof must be insulated with foam sheets or mineral wool. For waterproofing we use cheaper roofing felt. Roofing material for a change house can be as follows:

• slate
• ondulin
• tiles
• metal

If the building will be used for overnight accommodation in winter, it is recommended to install a stove with a chimney. Instead of a stove, you can use a potbelly stove.

Equip the building with a simplified drainage system mounted on bars. Exterior finishing can be done with lining, followed by painting with an antiseptic, or siding.

How to choose a plan and build it yourself

Since before any construction starts, a drawing of the future building is required, let’s consider the most attractive shed projects. So what is the plan?

Frame cabins usually have one or two rooms and a vestibule. Since the building is small, most often rectangular in shape, it is necessary to arrange all the rooms functionally. It is better to place the entrance and vestibule in a one-room wooden cabin on a short wall.

If you need 2 rooms, the vestibule is located in the center of the cabin on the wide side. Thus, from the vestibule you can go to both rooms.

More complex cabins with more rooms have the plan of a small frame house, and are rarely called cabins - rather they are a temporary or permanent home for equipment or builders.

So, frame cabins can be:

• one-room with vestibule
• two-room apartments
• with flat roof
• with pitched roof
• with gable roof
• complex cabins - with awnings, extensions, etc.
• cabins for summer living
• for year-round use

Sequence and time of work

When you have a project for a future change house in your hands, it’s time to purchase materials and do the installation. Let's take a step-by-step look at what you will need to do during construction. We will also find out whether it will be possible to build the most ordinary, simple, wooden cabin based on a frame in a month.

1. We buy and transport to the site the blocks that will serve as the foundation for your shed.
2. Mark the area, clear the area, install blocks.
3. Purchase and bring boards and timber.
4. Treat the boards with a septic tank.
5. Buy OSB or chipboard (chipboard is preferable, as it is stronger).
6. Put together a base from boards or timber, insulate, waterproof, and attach chipboard.
7. Lay linoleum on the floor.
8. Process timber or boards for the frame of the cabin and roof.
9. Assemble and install walls.
10. Make roof rafters or a panel for a pitched roof.
11. Cover the roof with wind protection
12. Lay sheathing and counter-lattice
13. Cover the roof with roofing material - tiles, slate or other.
14. Buy and transport clapboard to the site.
15. Secure the windbreak.
16. Treat the lining with protection and cover the walls.
17. Buy and deliver a stove, purchase a chimney.
18. Assemble the chimney and install the stove.

Each of these actions takes one day, except for upholstering the walls with clapboard and installing the rafter system. Thus, a frame change house can be installed in 1 month.

Read about how to make a small, inexpensive panel house for temporary residence.

A utility shed is a completely universal structure. It can be used not only for temporary residence of builders during the construction of buildings, but also used after completion of work as a place to store various equipment. Such a design will be very useful in a summer cottage and adjacent area - it is easy to build, and the benefits from it are obvious. Now we will tell you how to make a change house with your own hands for your home or cottage.

There are several options for making household sheds and each has both advantages and disadvantages. At the same time, the main part of the criticism falls precisely on the price/quality ratio, but if we set ourselves the task of doing the work ourselves, then we will immediately abandon ready-made structures, which are mostly presented on the market in the form of containers.

Panel cabins, that is, made from solid panels, are often not of very high quality, and, as a rule, are short-lived, if not completely disposable. This option does not withstand atmospheric influences, especially strong gusts of wind. We will focus on a simple, affordable, and most importantly, durable version of the change house - we will build it from wooden beams.

Preparation

If you are planning to build such a structure with your own hands at your dacha or local area, start by marking the territory. Please note that if you are planning to build a change house not for a certain period, but for a long time, then carefully select a place for it, taking into account convenience and the presence of other buildings. We will be building a structure with a foundation, so carefully select and designate the location in which it will be located.

Thoroughly clear the area of ​​debris and stones. If you are constructing a house or cottage, and the change house is temporarily needed for workers to live and store things, choose a place not next to the main construction site, but away from it. It is recommended to locate the building at the far end of the yard, near the fence. This will not interfere with the visual beauty of the site and will not be noticeable to guests.

Foundation

Estimate the dimensions of the future structure. If you need a kind of “pantry” for storing tools, this is one thing, but if you are planning to build a good-quality shed with windows and the prospect of turning it, for example, into a summer kitchen, these are more serious dimensions. We will focus on the conditional average dimensions of 3x4 meters, which, in most cases, is quite enough. You can calculate the dimensions at your own discretion.

So, in the marked area we tear off a layer of soil about 20 cm deep. We get rid of the stones and level the resulting depression. We cover the surface of the earth with moisture-resistant material, which is recommended to use geotextiles. Pour a layer of sand on top of it (about 10 cm) and compact it thoroughly.

Next, we take cinder blocks and install them in a symmetrical order along the entire perimeter of the sand base. Adjust the number of cinder blocks taking into account the area of ​​the change house, but take into account a step of approximately 80-100 cm between the supports (less is possible). After installing the blocks, fill the foundation with sand to the ground level on the site, level the blocks using a level and compact the sand. If you are going to build a porch for a change room, install additional cinder blocks using a similar technology. As a rule, you can get by with two or three, taking into account the emphasis of the porch on the common foundation.

Important: Plan your work in such a way that after installing the cinder blocks, their top level is approximately 15-20 cm above the ground level. The bottom surface of the change house will not come into contact with the ground, which will save you from problems with rotting floors.

As you can see, a do-it-yourself change house does not require complex manipulations with concrete mortar to lay the foundation. This option is great even for heavy structures, and you can move it if the need arises. Although, of course, you will have to try for this.

Frame

Before installing the frame for construction, we treat the cinder blocks with bitumen mastic and wrap them with roofing felt. This is necessary to ensure waterproofing. Next, we take the prepared wooden beams and lay them on top of the cinder block base. The beams must be fixed with anchor bolts. Select the cross-section of the material to match the weight of the future structure, but not less than 100 mm.

Make sure that the horizontal frame is correctly maintained. To do this, use a building level. After laying the beams around the perimeter, do not forget to lay them in the center. Beams can be connected in the manner shown in the figure.

The second layer of beams with the obligatory transverse joists is laid on top of the first. Connections are provided with angles and self-tapping screws. Do not forget to securely fasten all the parts and check the strength, since the overall stability of the cabin structure depends on this.

After you are convinced of the reliability of the structure, you can proceed to securing the vertical posts. We take the beams and fasten them in the corners of our future change house, using metal corners. To further create strength, the vertical posts are secured with plates that secure the two parts of the structure. Erect such racks in each corner of the shed, and then proceed to installing intermediate ones. Choose the height of the racks according to your taste, but it is not recommended to make them higher than 2.5 meters, in order to avoid unnecessary load on the components of the building.

Important: The roof of the cabin should be sloping to avoid accumulation of precipitation on it. Therefore, you need to provide different heights for the racks on the front and rear parts of the cabin. Aim for approximately 20-30 cm difference.

You should have a strong structure with a strut pitch of approximately 1 meter. For reliability, the racks can be temporarily secured with light strips, which can later be easily dismantled. This will save you from accidental breakdowns. We draw attention to the need to check the verticals and horizontals with a building level after each installation of beams.

Don’t forget to provide a doorway when installing vertical posts on the front side of the cabin. It can be done either in the center or closer to the edges. Also, if you have included a porch in your project, do not forget to install joists for this purpose.

When the installation of the vertical racks is completed, we fasten them on top with beams, which will play the role of the foundation of the future roof of our change house.

Roof

As already noted, the roof of the cabin should be sloping so that precipitation does not linger on it. To do this, we made the front racks higher than the racks of the rear wall of the structure. We make sure that the angle of inclination is the same along the entire perimeter of the structure.

Now we move on to the installation of rafters. For the rafters, we choose the most durable and straight boards, taking into account that the edges of the roof should protrude above the facade and rear of the building by about 30-40 cm, providing protection from rain and snow. We monitor the reliability of the fastening of the rafters - for this we use metal corners with screws and nails. The pitch of laying the rafters should be about 50 cm.

Now we install the sheathing - a set of boards laid on top of the rafters in the transverse direction. As a covering for the roof, we can recommend a material such as ondulin (bitumen slate) - it is quite light, so there is no need to use too thick boards for sheathing.

Having mounted the sheathing, we lay ondulin, starting from the bottom and working overlapping. The roof will be quite strong, but at the same time quite light.

Floor

For the floor we will use a base of logs laid across the structure; two or three will be enough, after which we can proceed to covering the floor with boards. We securely fasten all elements with nails.

Be sure to treat the floor boards with a special antiseptic, which will help prevent the development of harmful microorganisms. Fix the film over the boards, lay a layer of mineral wool for thermal insulation and cover with film again. Now it’s the turn of the second skin, which, in fact, will play the role of the floor in the change house.

Walls

The walls are very easy to erect: you can attach horizontal boards to vertical posts, or use ready-made wooden panels. Boards or panels are fastened with ordinary nails. Do not forget to monitor the reliability of the fastening and the overall evenness of the fasteners. Check horizontal and vertical lines with a building level. There is no fundamental benefit from this, but the change house will not look “skewed”.

Windows and doors

Door and window openings are inserted into the holes provided for this, which must be assembled from timber of suitable size. The structure is attached to the walls with corners, and the cracks are filled with foam. Which window or door to choose is up to you.

Finishing work

Do not forget to ensure thermal insulation of the roof and walls - use mineral wool and film. The interior lining of the cabin can be made from inexpensive chipboard/fibreboard. Open the wood with a varnish mixture suitable for your type of wood and let it dry thoroughly. The outer walls of the building can be painted in the desired color.

The change house is ready. If necessary, it can be moved to another location using a truck crane and having previously prepared a new foundation according to the instructions provided. Happy construction!

A cabin is a small house that can be easily transported on a truck trailer. The change house is used as temporary housing for builders, or a garden (dacha) house during the construction of a full-fledged dacha. The advantage of a homemade cabin is that it is inexpensive and provides at least a minimum level of comfort, so it is well suited for temporary living. There are wooden and metal cabins, read about the latter on this site. The cost of cabins that can be bought on the construction market or in stores starts from 30 thousand rubles (size 2x3 meters), so many people prefer to make a cabin themselves. This will not only save at least a third of the amount, but also make the change house more convenient for yourself. In this article we will talk about building a cabin with your own hands from the most available materials.

How the change house works

Any change house consists of the following elements:

• frame;
• roof;
• exterior decoration;
• insulation;
• interior decoration;
• window;
• doors.

Frame

The frame is the basis of any shed; it is what determines its size and shape. The strength of the cabin, its ability to withstand wind and any other loads depends on it. To make the frame, different materials are used - from debarked logs to galvanized steel profiles, but the most popular material remains sawn dry board 25 mm thick and 100 mm wide. To create a frame 6 meters long and 3 meters wide, 60–100 meters of board are required, which is 0.15–0.25 meters³.

With the average cost of such a board being 10 thousand rubles, 2.5 thousand rubles are enough for boards for the frame. Metal profiles and wooden beams are much more expensive. And the cost of ready-made cabins of this size starts from 40 thousand rubles.

Roof

The roof is made of dry boards 25x100 mm. To create a gable roof 1 meter high for a cabin 6 meters long and 3 meters wide, 100 meters of boards are enough, which will cost 2.5 thousand rubles. This board is used to make triangles that form the ceiling joists and roof rafters. For a cabin 6 meters long, 7–8 such triangles are enough. From above, the triangles are connected by one board - a ridge. After this, the resulting roof frame is sheathed with the same board or OSB sheets (oriented strand board). The board is stronger, but more expensive.

If a gable roof is perceived as an unnecessary luxury, then they make a shed roof, the cost of creating which is a quarter less. Such a roof consists of triangles formed by the ceiling joists, the gable wall and the roof rafters. Then the roof frame is also sheathed with OSB sheets or boards. After completing these works, the roof is covered with a roofing, which uses the following materials:

• roofing felt;
• slate;
• roofing iron;
• galvanized iron;
• metal profile.

Exterior decoration

A variety of materials are used for exterior decoration. The most popular are:

• roofing iron;
• plastic and metal siding;
• moisture-resistant plywood or OSB;
• clapboard board.

Each material has advantages and disadvantages. Roofing iron is very cheap, but on a wooden frame it begins to rattle under strong winds. Plastic or metal siding is durable and beautiful, but is much more expensive than any other materials. Moisture-resistant plywood or OSB are inexpensive, but they must be treated with water-repellent compounds at least once every two years. Clapboards create a beautiful and stylish appearance, but are expensive and require treatment with hydrophobic compounds at least once every 2-3 years.

Insulation

To insulate a cabin, use:

• Styrofoam;
• foamed cellophane;
• mineral wool;
• polyurethane;
• ecowool;
• wood concrete;
• fiberboard

Interior decoration

• For interior decoration the following are most often used:
• Fiberboard (fibreboard);
• drywall;
• carriage board.

The finishing material is chosen based on the desired interior of the cabin and the cost of materials.

Windows and doors

In most cases, either new or dismantled but fully functional windows and doors are used for change houses. Such windows and doors can be purchased inexpensively at some hardware stores that accept them on consignment. It is advisable to remove old paint from a new window or used door and repaint it. There is no need to paint new windows and doors.

How to make a change house - step-by-step guide and drawing

Below we will tell you how to make a change house with dimensions of 2.2x3x2.2 meters (width, length, height), one window and one door. Here are the materials you will need for this:

• sawn board 25x100 mm – 0.5 m³;
• Moisture-resistant OSB with a thickness of 9–15 mm and a size of 2.44x1.22 meters - 20 sheets;
• plywood 5–7 mm thick or fiberboard of the same thickness – 7–8 m²;
• roofing material 7–10 m²;
• fine wave slate (used in good condition) 7 waves - 5 sheets;
• used wooden window and door, completely ready for installation;
• foam insulation 10 cm thick or any other area of ​​32 m²;
• floor and ceiling plinth 22–25 meters;
• galvanized ridge - 8 meters;
• hydrophobic impregnation with an antiseptic (for example, Senezh OgneBio);
• brush or roller;
• self-tapping screws of various lengths;
• nails of various lengths;
• reinforcing corners made of galvanized sheet metal 0.4–0.9 mm thick.

Required Tools

You will also need the following tools:

• electric circular saw;
• drill with a set of drills for wood and metal;
• screwdriver;
• jigsaw;
• grinder with a disc for stone;
• extension;
• electric generator (if it is not possible to connect to a 220 volt network);
• tape measure 5 meters long;
• hammer;
• axe;
• chisels;
• stapler;
• sharp knife;
• wood hacksaw;
• pliers;
• level;
• square;
• protractor;
• pencil;
• construction tape.

Step-by-step instruction

1. Cut the following elements from a 25x100 mm board:

• vertical posts 230 cm long – 12 pcs;
• floor joists 220 cm long - 7 pieces;
• ceiling and roof logs 260 cm long – 7 pcs;
• roof rafters 3 meters long - 7 pieces;
• roof supports 120 cm long - 7 pieces;
• vertical roof posts 20 cm long – 7 pcs;
• cross boards 305 mm long – 7–8 pcs;
• cross boards 220 cm long – 15–20 pcs.

1. Treat all cut elements with hydrophobic materials. Perform the same operation with other wooden parts that you will cut from boards, plywood, fiberboard or OSB.
2. Place two vertical posts on the ground parallel to each other at a distance of 220 cm from each other (measure the distance from the far sides). Place the ceiling joist along one edge so that it protrudes the same distance in both directions.
3. Using a square, align the boards relative to each other so that all angles are equal to 90 degrees.
4. Nail the ceiling joist to each board using nails 70–90 mm long. The nails must go right through.
5. Step back 15 cm from the bottom edge of the vertical posts and lay the floor joist.
6. Align all corners with a square and nail the joist to both vertical posts with nails 70–90 mm long.
7. Attach a vertical roof post to the front edge of the ceiling joist at an angle of 90 degrees and nail it with two nails 70–90 mm long.
8. Connect the top of the roof joist and the back of the ceiling joist with a rafter, so that the top edge of the rafter runs over the top corner of the ceiling joist and the outside corner of the vertical joist, then nail in place.
9. Install a support from the corner between the ceiling joist and the vertical roof post and rafter, then nail it in place.
10. Turn the structure over and use pliers to bend the ends of the protruding nails into an “L” shape.
11. Have a helper hold the head of each nail with an ax so you can drive the bent nails into the boards. Do not try to simply bend the nails with a hammer, this type of connection is very fragile, be sure to bend their ends in an “L” shape first.
12. If necessary, cut off the protruding piece of the lid support.
13. You need to make 5 such structures. Then make two more structures, but without the front vertical post; you will place them where you will install windows and doors.
14. Determine the most convenient location for installing the cross boards. We recommend placing the bottom board under the door so that the door rests on it, placing the top board directly above the door, and the middle one approximately between them. Another option is also possible, for example, placing the bottom one directly above the floor joists, the top one directly under the ceiling joists, and the middle one between them.
15. Mark the locations for them on each structure and select a groove for their installation. To do this, use a jigsaw to cut 25 mm deep cuts at the end of the vertical board, the distance between the cuts is 100 mm, then carefully chop the wood with a chisel. If for some reason it is impossible to make such grooves, then double the number of transverse boards and nail them directly to the ends of the vertical posts, with the exception of the boards passing through the window and door.
16. Place each structure vertically (as it should stand in the frame of the house), level it and nail a cross board to it.
17. Nail the side cross boards to the vertical posts at a distance of 30–40 cm from each other.
18. Nail vertical boards at 50 cm intervals to the side transverse boards; they will create a frame for interior decoration and insulation.
19. From inside the change house, nail braces to the transverse boards, installing them at an angle of no less than 30 and no more than 60 degrees, which will increase the rigidity of the structure. It is advisable to install at least 2 braces on each wall. The optimal length of the braces is 80–120 cm. Use nails 70 mm long to fix the braces and bend them as described above.
20. Place the change house on its side and hem the floor joists from below with plywood or OSB with a thickness of at least 6 mm. This is necessary for laying the insulation, then install the change house normally again.
21. To insert a window and door, nail horizontal spacers to the vertical posts (they must be installed level), the distance between which is 2–5 mm greater than the height of the window and door frames.
22. Insert windows and doors, support their frames with wood chips and make sure that the panel and sash open and close normally. After this, secure with self-tapping screws. To do this, drill holes in the horizontal boards of the box according to the diameter of the self-tapping screws, and in the spacers, drill holes with a diameter 2 times smaller than the diameter of the self-tapping screw. Then tighten the screws and make sure that the door leaf and window frame open and close normally.
23. From the inside of the cabin, line the ceiling with OSB sheets, then tightly lay insulation on these sheets from the roof side.
24. Lay a 25x100 mm board decking on the roof joists. We recommend using solid flooring when there are no gaps between the boards. It is more expensive, but provides better heat and sound insulation.
25. Lay sheets of roofing felt over the flooring and secure them with a stapler.
26. Lay slate on the roof.
27. Cover the gable with a 25x100 mm board, laying the boards without gaps. Drill 6–8 holes with a diameter of 20 mm in the lower gable boards; they will ensure sufficient air movement for ventilation.
28. At the front and sides, cover the joints between the pediment and the slate with a galvanized ridge.
29. Sheathe the outside of the change house with OSB sheets, trying not to allow gaps larger than 0.5 mm. If cracks appear, they will need to be sealed with putty made from PVA glue and sawdust.
30. Cut the foam to size and insert it from the inside of the cabin into the space between the vertical boards and secure it with construction tape. Then line the space between the floor joists with foam. Sew the floor with a 25x100 mm board. If it is possible to cover the floor with a thicker board, take advantage. Lay OSB over the floorboard.
31. Sheathe the inside of the walls with OSB.
32. Install floor and ceiling plinths. If necessary, you can install plinths in the corners to hide the cracks.
33. Treat the inside and outside of the cabin with hydrophobic agents and fire bioprotection.

Conclusion

Now you know what tools and materials are needed to build a shed, so with minimal construction and carpentry skills, you can build a shed yourself. Our step-by-step guide to building a shed yourself will help you avoid many mistakes and significant waste of material.