DIY quick clamp. Do-it-yourself quick-release clamp. Made of wood and steel
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Every craftsman who makes products and parts made of metal or wood cannot do without homemade clamps. Previously, such a tool was produced in various modifications, from specialized to universal. The main task is to fix the workpiece for processing and joining operations. Let's look at how to make a quick-release clamp with your own hands in various variations.
Angle clamp
This type of do-it-yourself metal clamp is designed to fix two objects at right angles and connect them to each other using any methods, however, the main purpose is as a jig for welding metal parts at the angle required for work. To make it properly , you will need the following components:
Corners should be welded at 90 degrees to metal or steel plates. We fasten the worm-type structure by welding, and screw a pin-collar into the working nut in order to assemble a stop at the end. The stop must turn freely. Then with reverse side it is necessary to drill a hole where we insert a metal rod as a lever. Incredible simple design and practicality of use have become the key to the popularity of such a clamp among everyone who works with metal and products made from it.
Carpenter's clamp
Such designs used in carpentry are of the following types:
- Standard clamp, which is the most popular or simple;
- In the form of a caliper for parts small size and operational fixation;
- Self-clamping clamp for milling processes and working with workpieces of various heights.
The first type is made from two pine blocks, a locking nut, rods, threaded wing nuts and thrust washers. The manufacturing process is very simple:
- We cut out the working pliers from the bars, drill holes for the studs, taking into account a small amount of play;
- We screw in the studs and lock them using appropriate methods;
- We ensure alignment with nuts, made either in the form of wings or standard nuts for improved tension.
The second option is used when prompt fixation of small parts is necessary. Production is carried out from small bars and thin-sheet plywood. Furniture nuts and collar pins act as a worm system. One stop is stationary; we attach it to the end of the guide rail, in which we cut out recesses to fix the moving mechanism.
There are both portable and stationary option such a design where grooves are cut for movement with the fastening of fixed stops. The clamp is a furniture nut, a hairpin and a knob. Due to this, you can work with workpieces of any size.
The self-clamping design has a lever with an eccentric at the rotating end. We turn it at a certain angle, a quick clamp is automatically obtained. The height is adjusted with a pin on the workbench. It is made individually for each matrix, depending on its purpose and the purpose of the work being carried out.
Pipe clamp
Welding metal pipes end to end is a complex operation. It is considered simpler to weld the pipe to ready-made system. The design for such cases is made of metal corner and steel plates. The halves of such a device should be fixed traditional method, namely threaded studs. As a result, you can get a fairly simple and efficient design, which will greatly facilitate the work when welding pipes with various designs.
There are other types of structures, including cam mechanisms, tape and wire clamps, which can be useful for working with specific structures, including particularly fragile and thin ones. However, their production is the subject of separate master classes and articles on specialized resources.
Homemade clamps are irreplaceable assistants for any craftsman working with metal and wooden parts and products. Making them is quite simple and very exciting. Here it is important to follow the manufacturing technology, find optimal instructions and videos. You can buy clamps, but they may ultimately not be suitable due to the specificity of the workpiece or work. This is why you should make your own clamps. Good luck working with various workpieces and making homemade quick-release clamps!
It will not hurt for a novice craftsman to know that in the first stages it is unlikely that he will be able to get by with just a hammer or saw. Subsequently, you will have to resort to using a vice or quick-release clamp to fix the workpiece or glue individual fragments. Making it yourself is quite simple. There is no single clamp that is sufficiently universal to satisfy all needs when performing various types work.
Use of wooden clamps
They are various styles, models and sizes. So you can stock up various models, which will always come in handy. A master can purchase several models of Assistent clamps, and besides, they are not that expensive. If a person does not want to pay for such a purchase, he can make a wooden or pipe clamp with his own hands. Wood models are very popular, you can make them yourself. This model is easy to use and easy to adjust.
Model F - wooden clamp, which is slightly improved. It uses a maple plank with a width of 5 cm and a thickness of 0.6 cm. The design also contains a metal rod on which a thread is applied. To make a handle, you need to take a wooden blank. Suitable for this hardwood without defects.
The moving parts must be well dried in order to slide smoothly on the bar. There should be two nuts on the rod. They are located at the end and then tighten against each other. Thanks to this, they do not separate during use. You can use a separate lock nut or simple model with permanent lock. And two more nuts are needed to secure the clamping pads along with the washer from the outside.
The use of a locknut and other fastening methods is permitted. Double products jam each other. This is the most reliable and easiest way. It's also the cheapest. It is important to leave some space for the screw so it can rotate freely.
Made of wood and steel
Using a hacksaw, cut the threaded rod to 30 cm. First, you need to make an additional cut into a block measuring 9 by 7 cm, if we're talking about about loose ends. Once all the corners are cut, you need to drill a hole and insert the tightening bolts.
You need to make sure the holes are large enough to fit the bolt head. The threaded rod is fixed in the upper area of the fixed end. The hole needs to be large enough to fit the nut into the rod. Install the fixed end when intending to drill holes. When assembling, you need to make sure that the ends are secured at right angles. Thanks to this, the threaded rod will become parallel to the rod.
Before assembly, it is necessary to make a hole where the nut and threaded rod pass through. Do this in the same block position as for the fixed end. You need to make sure the hole is wide and deep enough to accommodate the nuts. The lower area is small, and therefore it is difficult to insert a sufficient number of screws here. This is necessary to prevent curling.
Shelf dimensions are determined according to the desired length and available equipment. After this, the system components are sawed until required size, cut out the pads for the sponge and drill required holes, pens are glued with a five-minute epoxy resin. When the screw shaft is jagged by a file or sandpaper, fix the handles with epoxy glue.
Easy homemade options
A lightweight, homemade clamp is made on the basis of a metal rod. These clamps, although not as powerful as steel clamps, still provide the ability to create strong clamping pressure for any adhesive. Accordingly, their service life is quite impressive. The rod can be made to any length. The only thing you need to remember is that there should not be a threaded rod running along the entire length of the main rod. The clamp head does not need it at this end, making assembly much easier. Clamping jaws are made of plywood.
The lock nut is an element that secures the clamping jaw to the rod. However, it should not be under pressure. The nut can be cut with a regular hacksaw. It is fixed to the heel with epoxy resin. The recess should be quite wide and suitable for the washer and deep so that the nut and washer can turn without problems.
Here you need to use a 35 mm nut, since you need to drill a hole 38 mm in diameter with a bottom and 15 mm in depth. After drilling the recess, a through hole is made. This is required for the clamping screw. Fix the movable head in a fixed position and mark the places where the hole should be located.
Handle, screw and main assembly
Square blanks of 25 mm are made and 100 mm are cut for each handle. Mark the central part and drill out a fragment of 10.5 mm 60 mm using a drill. As an analogue, you can drill a fairly wide hole and then cover it with epoxy resin. But this method is considered not reliable enough.
The workpiece is sanded to make a more comfortable handle and glued to this clamping screw. Proceed to the main assembly. This simple task, allowing you to stick the film to the fixed head. The lock nut is strengthened and end caps are made. They should prevent the head from slipping off the rod. Therefore, it is advisable to screw a small plate onto the heel. Thereby the nut will not slip out of place. This acts like a hook.
Cam clamp
This device is not only useful, but also extremely simple. It must be remembered that cam clamps are fast-acting, but cannot guarantee great strength clamping parts. That's why they are used when relatively little cutting force is required. They are not suitable for working under high pressure, as is possible with a large clamp. But at the same time they are extremely easy to use.
A special template is used for preparation. It is needed to create curves. The template is made of metal, plastic or wood. It is used to tighten smooth curves. However, the cam mechanisms do not directly follow the French curve. The correct cam must have a profile, increasing the distance between the axis of rotation and constant speed. In this way it resembles a spiral drawn with a pencil.
In today's project we will create a tape clamp that will allow you to compress the parts various shapes when gluing, which is usually difficult to do using standard bars or pipe clamps. Want to make a picture frame? No problem, use the tape clamp!
You can independently and with minimal costs make a tape clamp for use on wooden frames, fittings, round objects, hexagons, octagons, n-gons and press objects of any size!
For the project you will need a 1.9 cm thick hardwood board measuring 10 by 25 cm, a 0.5 cm thick fiberboard measuring 12.7 cm by 51 cm, a 0.64 cm and 0.95 cm hardwood pin (eg oak, do not use poplar or pine), 16 x 0.95 cm high and 10 cm long hex bolt (or rod) and full thread, 16 0.95 cm high T-nut, hex nut # 8, three meters or stronger polyamide cord 1.9 cm wide, four sliding fasteners 1.9 cm wide, and wood glue. The tools you will need are a cutting machine with a table, a band saw and drilling machine.
Step 1: Creating the Corner Jaws
A band clamp consists of several jaws, a band that wraps around the jaws, and a tension mechanism that tightens the band around the jaws to clamp them onto the workpiece.
For a rectangular frame, you will need three jaws to hold the three corners, and a stationary jaw and tensioner for the fourth corner.
To make corner jaws, cut a circle with a diameter of 10 cm from wooden blank 1.9 cm thick hardwood. Drill a 0.3 cm diameter hole in the center. Cut 12 x 12 cm squares from 0.5 cm thick fiberboard (in fact, the thickness of the board is slightly smaller), and also drill holes with a diameter of 0 .3 cm through their centers. Using nails, center the fiberboards and glue the block of boards together. The edges of the fiberboard should be aligned as shown in the photo.
After the glue has dried, print and cut out the drill template 1, and stick it onto the square block using rubber cement. Drill 0.6 and 0.3 cm diameter holes. Use a band saw to cut the resulting block into quarters, and cut off the jaw corners (2.54 by 2.54 cm square) on each piece. The incision will go through the 0.95 cm diameter holes as intended. Finally, deburr each piece.
Cut eight 2.85 cm long pieces from a 0.95 cm thick hardwood dowel. Use an oak dowel, pine or poplar is too soft. Glue the resulting pins to the half-holes with a diameter of 0.95 cm. The pins act as “pivot” jaws to accommodate the clamping joints, which are not located at an angle of 90 degrees.
Using 0.6cm thick hardwood dowel, cut eight 2.85cm long pieces and glue to the top/bottom holes in the fibreboard. These pins will hold the pressure tape. There should be enough space between these pins and the round edge of the hardwood piece to thread the tape through.
Sand and clean the edges and faces of the four corner jaws you just made. Set them aside.
Step 2: Creating the Fixed Jaw and Tension Mechanism
Start with a 7.62 x 10 cm piece of 1.9 cm thick hardwood. Cut 1.2 cm on each side along the 10 cm long side. Cut each cut header in half - use a bandsaw or handsaw! You will need three pieces of hardwood 1.9 cm thick: one piece measuring 7.62 by 7.2 cm (depending on the gap between the saw teeth cutting machine), and two blanks measuring 1.2 by 3.7 cm.
Cut two pieces measuring 7.62 by 10 cm from 0.5 cm thick fiberboard.
Now glue together a block of blanks (fiberboard - hardwood board - fiberboard) as shown in the diagram and photo. I used small coins stacked on top of each other and taped together during the gluing process to create a groove for the clamp strip. After 15-20 minutes, remove the coin separator before the glue has completely cured.
After the glue has dried, attach template 2 to the top and side of the block; Drill holes in the top and inside the side as shown on the template.
By using band saw make a notch on the stationary jaw, and cut holes with a diameter of 0.95 cm, as indicated in step 1; Next, cut the block halfway along the line indicated on the template. Mark the two pieces as they fit together, because you need to align them in one line side holes! You have now created a fixed jaw and a movable tension slider.
Glue four 2.85 cm long pins (2 0.63 cm thick and two 0.95 cm thick) onto the stationary jaw as indicated in step 1. Sand the edges and pins.
Cut two 12.7 cm long pieces from the 0.95 cm thick pin. The pins should move smoothly back and forth through the moving part. If necessary, sand the pins (use a drill press as shown in the photo). Glue the pin blanks to the fixed jaw blank. Use the sliding slider to align the pins during the gluing process.
Step 3: Install the Tension Bolt
Install a 16 x 0.95 cm T-nut into the center hole of the movable slider, which faces the fixed jaw. You will need to drill a shallow 1.1cm hole around the center hole to accommodate the T-nut. Insert a 16mm threaded rod through the T-nut (or a 10cm long, fully threaded hex bolt). When the bolt or rod is screwed in, it will act against the fixed jaw and push the movable slider out. Press a #8 hex nut into the center hole of the stationary jaw so that the rod/bolt rotates against it, protecting the wood at the bottom of the hole as shown in the photo. You can fit a hex bolt handle to tighten the clamp, or use a 19mm wrench for this purpose.
Step 4: Final Finishing of All Components
Coat the corner jaws, the fixed jaw and the movable slider with varnish or polyurethane so that the wood glue does not stick to them and can be easily cleaned off. Do not paint the pins or holes in the slider; they can stick together!
Step 5: Install the Tape
Take 3 meters (or more) of strong 1.9 cm wide polyamide cord (tape) and four 1.9 cm wide sliding fasteners. Pass the cord through the fastener, the left side of the fixed jaw, the second fastener, then through the left groove of the movable slider, the left side fixed jaw, first fastener and three corner jaws. Follow similar steps for the right side. See photo above.
To adjust the length of the tape there is The best way, i.e. cam levers, compression screws, spring-loaded fasteners, etc. The simplest and cheap way- these are still sliding fasteners. Improve the design yourself!
Step 6: Using the Tape Presser
Always adjust the length of the tape before applying glue to the workpiece and allow it time to dry. Wrap the clamping band around the workpiece and align the jaws at the corners. Pull the tape tight on the left side and adjust the sliding fasteners. You can use masking tape on the sponges to prevent the glue from sticking to them. Make sure no glue gets on the pivot/tension pins or mechanism. Turn the bolt using a 19mm socket wrench to tighten the jaws against the workpiece. Make sure your piece remains flat and square and let the glue dry.
For rectangles, use three jaws plus one fixed jaw. For six-sided workpieces, use 5 jaws plus one fixed jaw. For n-third parties – good idea For new brain project!
Thank you for your attention!
Reading time ≈ 5 minutes
A clamp is a tool that resembles a hand vice, which is used to securely fix or glue two elements together. For example, in carpentry it is used to connect two planes while drying. adhesive solution. However, this tool is not always at hand, so you can resort to making a quick-release design yourself. To properly make a metal clamp with your own hands, you need to follow step-by-step instructions with photos and video master classes.
Design Features
A clamp can quickly fail, which is why it is so important to know how to make homemade instrument. Components This metal structure consists of a lever part, a frame, clamp lips and a moving part.
What are the advantages of clamping tools:
The clamp can also be made from wood, however metal structure more practical and reliable. Its production does not require special knowledge and skills; you only need the use of welding equipment, a hacksaw and a torch. The whole process with step by step instructions shown in the video.
Models of clamping tools are divided into the following classes based on the operation of mechanisms and structural features:
Manufacturing technology
A do-it-yourself metal clamp is much more reliable and practical. wooden structure. For the manufacture of homemade units Welding equipment and metalworking units will be required.
Tools for making any type of clamp
1 option
Following the instructions, you can make a homemade clamp from metal reinforcement. 
Option 2
To make an angle clamp tool with your own hands, we will need following materials: steel trimmings from corners 40*40, 50*50 and 30*50, 200 mm each, 2 F-clamps and strip 10*50 up to 250 mm long. 
Let's get started:
Buy clamps from construction stores quite expensive. Everyone wants to rid themselves of extra costs, if there alternative options. You may need several such tools at once, this is especially true when assembling, manufacturing or repairing furniture. Homemade clamps will replace your hand vice, as you can choose the model, type and size of the tool. By following the instructions in the photo and video, you can quickly understand the manufacturing mechanism and quickly make a manual clamp from scrap materials.
With the help of such a vice it is very convenient and reliable to clamp small parts. And in order for our clamp to automatically open when unscrewing the nut, we can put a spring inside on the bolt, between the hinge flaps. It doesn’t need to be very powerful so that it can clamp the necessary parts without much difficulty.
To work you need:
- small door hinge;
- bolt;
- wing nut;
- screwdriver;
- pliers.
Clamping with your own hands is quite simple. We take door hinge, which should have 3 holes on each side. We connect both its edges and drill out one hole for a bolt, if you don’t have a small one that can fit the existing holes.
We insert the bolt into the hole prepared for it and tighten it on the other side with a wing nut. To ensure maximum clamping of objects, you can use a screwdriver and pliers.
The most basic clamp made from scrap materials is ready.
Now we can test it, for this we will take two materials that we need to glue together. We apply glue to their surfaces and apply them to each other. Then we open our clamp, insert the materials to be glued there and clamp it using a wing nut and bolt. Tighten with pliers and a screwdriver. Now we wait for the glue to harden.