Do-it-yourself wood-burning stoves: drawing and step-by-step manufacturing process. Clear drawings for creating the most effective potbelly stove with your own hands Potbelly stove from a profile pipe

Whether in a private country house or in your own garage or workshop, it is always a good idea to have a mobile or stationary stove-stove. Today there are many different models of these heating devices on sale, but they can be expensive. Therefore, if you have experience working with metal, the right material and the right tools, you can often make stoves yourself.

Which model of wood-burning potbelly stove to choose with your own hands is up to the master, since these home-made devices can have a wide variety of appearances and are made both from new material and from improvised metal objects.

Craftsmen have learned to adapt metal barrels with walls 2.5-3 mm thick, gas or oxygen cylinders, medium-diameter pipes, metal sheets and even rims from large automobile wheels to make potbelly stoves.

Tools for making a potbelly stove

To work with metal you will need special tools, some of them are available in almost every private home, while others will have to be purchased or rented.

• Angle grinding machine - “grinder” and consumables in the form of cutting discs and grinding wheels.
• A welding machine with a power of 200 A, and also consumables - electrodes Ø 3 and 4 mm. In addition, you will definitely need a special mask and protective suit.
• Metal brush.
• Slag hammer.
• Measuring tools - folding meter, long metal ruler, tape measure, chalk or marker.
• Pliers, hammer, chisel.
• Drill with metal drills of various diameters.

The choice of stove model most often depends on where it is planned to be located, since residential premises require a more aesthetic appearance of the heating device and increased safety. Therefore, for installation in a house, the best option is one made from metal sheets or a piece of medium-diameter pipe.

Any of the existing models will be suitable, but it is better to choose one that will help not only bring warmth into the room, but also warm the water.

To finally make your choice, it is worth considering different options and becoming familiar with the process of their manufacture.

Gas cylinder stove

Installation of a potbelly stove from a cylinder can take place in different ways:

• Using one cylinder with a vertical or horizontal arrangement;
• Using two cylinders that are installed perpendicular to each other.

The second model will provide more heat, since the heating area of ​​the oven is almost twice as large.

The cylinder itself has a neat appearance, you can make a hob on it, and if you give the finished stove a decent appearance, it can even be installed in a residential area.

Materials for production

For the manufacture of the first model will need one cylinder, for the second, respectively, two, but besides this for the manufacture of the oven will need:

• A steel sheet with a thickness of at least 3 mm - the jumper between the firebox and the ash pan, as well as the hob, will be made from it.
• If you want the stove to look more respectable, then you need to purchase a ready-made cast iron door with a cast pattern for the firebox and ash pan.
• If appearance is not so important, then the door can be made from a piece of metal cut from the cylinder itself or from a steel sheet.
• Chimney pipe with a diameter of 90 — 100 mm.
• Reinforcing rod with a diameter of 12 — 15 mm or steel angle for making a grate and legs. made of cast iron can also be purchased at a specialized store, or the bottom of a horizontally laid cylinder in which holes are drilled can serve as a grate.

Any of the models can be made not only from large cylinders, but also from small ones - this will depend on the space allocated for the stove.

Preparing the gas cylinder

Before starting work, the cylinder must be prepared, especially if the container is not new, but has already been in use. In this case, a certain concentration of gas may always remain inside the cylinder, and if a spark occurs during its cutting, an explosion is possible. Measures for appropriate preparation of the container cannot be neglected, since do work will be extremely dangerous.

Preparation is carried out in the following sequence:

• First of all, unscrew the valve, which is located on top of the cylinder, and clear the hole in which it is installed. The container is left outside or in a utility room for about a day, filling it to the top with water.
• After this time, the water from the cylinder is drained. It should be taken into account that the liquid will have an unpleasant odor, so it should be drained away from your home.
• The washed cylinder can be used for work, since the last remaining gas should be removed from it along with the water.

Making a vertical stove from a cylinder

• The first step is to mark the prepared cylinder - the location of the firebox and ash pan is indicated on it. For this procedure you will need a marker and a flexible measuring tape - thanks to her a fairly rigid but elastic tape can be measured and drawn location door

• The next step is to carefully cut out the marked parts using a grinder. The cut out fragments are almost always used for further work.

Cutting openings for the firebox doors and ash pan

• These elements are boiled, adding sides, hinges and a handle-latch, and they make excellent doors.
• Next, the internal diameter of the cylinder is measured, and according to this measurement, a ring is rolled up from thick wire, which will become the basis for welding the fittings. Thus, a grate for the firebox is made.
• Then, the level of installation of the grate is outlined. The grate should be located 30 ÷ 50 mm below the edge of the cut opening for the firebox door. The grate thus becomes a separator between the ash pit chamber and the firebox. Reinforcing bars are welded at a distance of 8 ÷ 10 mm from each other.

• Hinges attached to the door are welded to one side of the firebox opening. It is very important to accurately align the installation location so that the doors close and open easily.

• On the opposite side of the hinges, a loop-hook for the bolt, open at the top, is fixed. It should keep the door securely closed while the stove is heating.
• The door on the ash pan is secured in the same way.
• It is recommended to cut off the top of the cylinder to weld a round metal panel on top, which will act as a hob.
• The chimney can be discharged either through the top of the cylinder or through the back or side wall of the stove. If you choose the second option, the upper hob will be much larger, since it will be freed from the chimney pipe.

If the cylinder stands vertically, it will take up much less space than the horizontal version, but you must also remember that any stove must be located at a distance of 200 mm from the wall, and the walls themselves must be covered with heat-resistant material.

Efficient potbelly stove made from two gas cylinders

To make such a potbelly stove you will need two cylinders, which, when heated, can heat the room much faster. In addition, if desired, it is quite possible to install a water heating tank in the vertical part of the furnace if you install a hermetically sealed container inside, bring the tap out and cut in pipes for supplying and extracting water.

• The first step is to prepare the cylinder, which will stand horizontally. The upper part is cut off from it, so that a round hole with a diameter of approximately 30 - 35 mm less than the inner diameter of the cylinder is obtained.

• In the bottom part of the future firebox, holes with a diameter of 10 - 12 mm are drilled in several lines, which in this case will serve as a kind of grate.

• A metal box is welded under this “grid” - this will ash pan. Then you need to install a tightly closing door on it to prevent coals and ash from falling out. As an air regulator it is used will not be available in this model.
• Legs made from corners or fittings are welded next to the ash pan.

• On top of the horizontally located cylinder, on the side opposite the firebox door, a round hole is cut out onto which the vertical part of the stove will be installed.

• A door is installed, which would best be made from the head of another cylinder. A hole is cut in the center into which a pipe with a diameter of about 76 mm is welded. This pipe is equipped with a valve, with which you can regulate the flow of air into the firebox, and therefore the intensity of firewood combustion. It is recommended to place the door hinges on top - under the influence of its weight, the lid will reliably close the combustion chamber window and minimize air suction.

• The most difficult thing in preparing the upper, vertical part of the potbelly stove is the process of marking and cutting out a certain shape, which is ideal for putting on and welded to the horizontal body.

• In this case, an additional heat exchange chamber is installed in the vertical part of the furnace, i.e. smoke entering this section does not immediately go down the chimney, but lingers in the chamber.

• To do this, metal plates with holes are welded inside the vertical body at a certain distance, which can vary from 250 to 400 mm. The holes should be cut close to the edge of the metal round piece. When installing them, the hole on the first jumper should be located on the opposite side from from version on the second jumper and so on. The best option in this case would be to install three similar jumpers, located equidistant from each other.
• The vertical unit with the partitions already mounted is installed and welded on top to the horizontally mounted housing. A connection pipe is welded onto the top cylinder.

Video: potbelly stove from two gas cylinders

Potbelly stove from a cylinder installed horizontally

This version of the potbelly stove is made from one cylinder, and the operating technology is in many ways similar to the option described above. Therefore, it is only worth considering the difference between some elements.

• Instead of a vertical assembly, only a pipe for connecting the chimney pipe is welded into the rear upper part of the cylinder.

• A rectangular hole is cut out for the combustion door - it can be adjusted in size to the finished cast iron door. If you purchase it in a store, then you should pay attention to the doors designed for the blower holes of brick stoves - sometimes they are ideal for a potbelly stove made from a cylinder.

• You can make a door and from a balloon cut out rectangular part. The size of the sides will fit well into the resulting hole, but in the middle there will be a hole from the valve. It will need to be welded with a patch cut from a metal sheet.
• In both the previous and this version, a hob can be added. For this, for example, from a steel bar, 5 — 8 mm, a rectangle is bent, which is welded onto the container, creating a small but fairly flat surface.
• Instead of wire, you can use two steel strips, welded on both sides of the cylinder along its entire length.

Potbelly stove from a barrel

A potbelly stove made from a barrel is more voluminous and takes up much more space than a stove made from a cylinder. That is why it is able to heat a room with a larger area. Such a stove can also be horizontal or vertical, but both the first and second options are used for heating not only utility and technical premises, but also housing.

To make this potbelly stove, you will need a metal barrel, a steel sheet and a chimney pipe with a diameter of 100-150 mm.

Vertical stove

• The barrel is measured and marked on its surface location the vent and firebox doors, as well as the location of the cut. It should extend below the edge of the firebox by 30 ÷ 50mm.
• Then the barrel is cut into two parts, and each of them is initially worked on separately.
• A round plate is cut out of a steel sheet, equal in diameter to the size of the barrel. It provides a hole for the passage of the chimney pipe.
• A hole is also cut in the top of the barrel so that it can be aligned with the hole on the round piece that will become the hob.
• The chimney pipe is welded into the hole in the barrel, and then from above, through the hole onto the pipe, a hob is threaded and laid, which is welded to the sides of the barrel. The air space created between them, which is the height of the side, will help keep the hob hot for a longer period.
• Next, a round metal part with holes cut in it is also welded to the lower side of the upper part - the grate. Another option is to weld two semicircular brackets under the finished cast iron grate. The photo clearly shows how these elements look and are located.
• When the bottom and top panel of this part of the stove are ready, you can use the previously made markings to cut a hole for the firebox door.
• The cut out part is scalded around with metal strips, hinges and a handle with a vertical latch are attached to the door.
• Next, the hinges for the door and the hook for the latch are welded to the body. This process must be carried out very carefully, accurately calculating the distances for installation, since the door should open and close easily, and the latch should fit freely into the holder arranged with a hook.
• An opening is cut in the lower part of the barrel for the ash pit. The door is prepared and hung - the same as in the case of the combustion chamber.
• After this, both parts are connected into a single structure by a weld.

Horizontal potbelly stove from a barrel

The process of making a horizontal version of a potbelly stove from a barrel is carried out in almost the same way as from a cylinder.

• In the upper plane, a window is marked and cut out on which a door made from a cut piece of metal will be installed. Connections between the door and the hinges and the hinges and the body are made using rivets.

• The standard pressure release hole in the barrel, 20 mm in diameter, is used as a blower. There is no separate door for the ash pan is provided.
• It is recommended to immediately make a stand to place the future stove. It is made from scraps of pipes or corners, so that the shelves ensure the stability of the barrel laid on them, without play.

• The next stage is the manufacture of a grate from a metal sheet 3-4 mm thick. First, the area is measured and, based on the data obtained, a panel of the required size is cut out, in which holes are drilled for air supply. The finished grate is placed on the bottom of the barrel in such a way that at the highest point, in the center, the distance between the grate and the inner surface of the barrel is about 70 mm. The grate is not fixed rigidly - it should be easily removed to clean the stove from accumulated ash.

• For the chimney pipe, a special connecting unit is made in the rear upper part. After marking for the required diameter, a grinder cuts diametrical slots at an angle of 15º from one another - a total of 12 cuts will be obtained. The resulting “teeth” are bent upward - the chimney pipe, which is then inserted, will be attached to them using rivets.

Video: the simplest horizontal potbelly stove made from a barrel

Potbelly stove made from wheel rims

A potbelly stove can also be made from two disks from large wheels and a piece of large-diameter pipe - it must be selected to match the diameter of the prepared disks. The height of the cut may vary depending on the preference of the master and the stability of the structure, but is usually limited to 300 - 450 mm.

There is nothing complicated in the design and manufacturing process of this version of the potbelly stove, but it is more suitable for technical and utility rooms than for residential ones.

• The individual elements of the future stove are being prepared - two disks, a piece of pipe, a metal sheet and a pipe for the chimney.
• All three parts are welded together into a single vertical structure. To make it easier to adjust the diameter of the pipe to the discs, it is permissible to cut off the outermost rib from the latter along the circumference, on one side.

• Next, an opening for the firebox is marked on the pipe and cut out with a grinder.
• The cut out part is scalded around the perimeter, a valve and hinges are installed on it, thereby obtaining the necessary door.
• Then, you need to make a hole for the ash pan, otherwise the fire in the stove simply won’t burn. To do this, a window measuring 100-120 mm in width and height is cut out in the lower disk.

• A hole for the chimney is cut from the back of the upper disk and a pipe is welded there.
• It is recommended to make a hob for the upper disk from a steel sheet 4 mm thick — 5 mm. It is tightly welded to the edge of the upper disk, thus becoming an additional heat exchanger.
• The same is done with the bottom of the stove in order to create a full-fledged ash pit and increase the safety of operation of the potbelly stove.

In fact, such a potbelly stove is more like a fire fenced with metal, and is neither economical nor easy to use. However, for garage needs and provided the source materials are free, this is a completely acceptable option.

Video: an example of an effective potbelly stove made from wheel rims

Potbelly stove "Gnome"

One of the most popular of all homemade potbelly stoves is the compact one. It looks neat and can be installed in any room. This potbelly stove is a good size for small country houses, as it does not take up much space and is an indispensable assistant in cooking and heating rooms.

One of the most common models is the “Gnome” potbelly stove.

A similar model of potbelly stove can be equipped with internal partitions - plates, then it will receive the properties of additional heat transfer, or you can make the most ordinary body with a division into a firebox and an ash pan.

The first version of the stove will retain heat in the room for a long time, and this is very important if summer residents live outside the city from early spring to late autumn, when the nights are cold.

In order to make such a potbelly stove, you need to purchase a steel sheet with a thickness of 3 — 4 mm, chimney pipe, corner 40 × 40 or 50 × 50 mm. You can make a lid for the burner yourself or buy it ready-made.

• Relying on drawing, on metal details are drawn on sheets potbelly stoves: panels all walls, a grate and two plates for securing them inside the structure.
• Rectangular holes for the firebox and ash pan are cut out in the front panel. The cut pieces of metal are used to make doors. They are scalded with a corner and the latches and hinges are immediately attached to them. Then, the doors are attached to the front panel.
• On the same panel, only on its inner side at a distance of 150 ÷ ​​160 mm from the top, one of the plates is welded, which will regulate the output of heated air. The plates must be 80 ÷ 100 mm shorter than the length of the side walls of the housing.
• After this, on the back wall, at a distance of 70 — 80 mm from the top, the second plate is welded. Together, these two plates form a zigzag labyrinth for the smoke when the stove burns. Thanks to this, each corner of the potbelly stove body will warm up.
• Two holes are cut in the hob - for the burner and for the chimney.
• Legs made of thick reinforcement or angle are welded to the bottom wall of the body. You can choose the option of a frame from a corner, which includes legs and a base for attaching the bottom and lower ribs of the side panels to it.
• Before welding the side parts to the frame or to the bottom panel, it is necessary to mark and weld corners on them along the entire length of the panel; they must be welded at the same level, since their role is to serve as brackets for laying the grate.
• In the panel prepared for the grate, holes with a diameter of 12 ÷ 15 mm are drilled in a checkerboard pattern, at a distance of 30 ÷ 40 mm from each other. Another option for a grate can be a grate welded from reinforcing bars. The possibility of purchasing a ready-made cast iron grate should not be discounted.
• Installation and welding of all walls of the potbelly stove are carried out. The main thing is to achieve complete tightness of the welds, so sometimes it becomes useful to install a 30 × 30 mm metal corner outside. This will slightly make the overall structure heavier, but will give it additional strength and reliability.
• The top cover with the chimney pipe and the hob is welded.
• To make the stove look respectable, you need to clean all welding seams and cover its surface with heat-resistant paint.

It makes sense to additionally install a screen on the side and rear surfaces, which will increase the safety of the stove and create a powerful convection flow of hot air, significantly accelerating the heating of the room. The screen panels are mounted on racks so that they are spaced from the stove body at a distance of 30 to 50 mm.

Video: master class on making a potbelly stove from steel sheet

What to consider when installing a potbelly stove

A one made independently will bring warmth and comfort to a house or outbuildings, without causing problems, only if safety rules are followed during its installation.

• The surface on which the stove is installed must be hard and fire-resistant. This could be, for example, brickwork or ceramic tiles. Can also be used asbestos sheet, which The top is covered with a metal sheet.
• Heat-resistant plasterboard or asbestos sheets are installed on the walls around the stove. Wall cladding with ceramic tiles or bricks is also suitable.
• It is prohibited to place flammable materials and compounds near the stove or near the firebox.
• The chimney must also be insulated from combustible surfaces when passing through a wall or attic.
• It is very important for safety to equip a reliable ventilation system so that carbon monoxide cannot accumulate in the room.
• In order for the stove to work for a long time and efficiently, you need to choose only high-quality material for its manufacture.
• Before installing the potbelly stove in its permanent place, street tests must be carried out, paying special attention to the quality of the welds and the accuracy of the fit of all parts.

Winter in Russia is more than winter. It's no secret that at this time of year it is uncomfortable to be outside a room with heating, but what to do if there is such a need? For example, you need to visit a garage and spend some time there. And the love of the stronger half of humanity for gatherings with friends in the company of their iron horse is known to everyone.

Of course, gatherings with even a slight “minus” outside rarely bring joy if the garage is not heated around the clock. There is a way out if you manage to install a homemade potbelly stove in the garage.

Features: pros and cons

The advantages of a homemade stove made from a barrel usually include:

• fast heating with minimal fuel consumption;
• simplicity and accessibility;
• the ability to make it yourself from a variety of materials, even improvised ones;
• unpretentiousness when choosing fuel (firewood, mining, diesel fuel, coal, peat, etc.);
• Sometimes, for better heating and heat exchange, a kind of “labyrinth” of metal sheets is installed on the stove.

It will also be quite true to say that a stove made from a barrel probably has more disadvantages than advantages:

• large heat losses and, as a result, significant fuel consumption during long-term use;
• if you make a potbelly stove from an ordinary barrel, then you need to be prepared for the fact that it will not last a relatively long time due to the insignificant thickness of the walls - they will quickly burn out;
• poor ability to regulate temperature;
• if the potbelly stove is made in a horizontal version, it will take up quite a large space in the limited space of the box;
• the vertical orientation of the stove will benefit the use of space, but the walls will burn out faster than a horizontally placed potbelly stove;
• due to burning out of the walls, the stove can be a fire hazard and will require more attention when heating;
• such a stove needs a high chimney with a height of more than 4 m, which will have to be cleaned regularly.

Most of these shortcomings can be eliminated by making the body of the potbelly stove from a gas cylinder. It has thick heat-intensive steel walls that are well welded.

Preparing an old cylinder for welding is very important due to the likely presence of explosive gas residues inside, even if the neck is removed.

There are several preparation options: you can simply fill the cylinder with water and leave it for a long time, or add alkaline substances to the water to neutralize the gas. However, this method is considered the most reliable:

• the cylinder in a vertical position must be securely buried in order to cut a hole with a grinder;
• fill it completely with water, wait a few hours;
• mark the cutting line;
• cut with a grinder until a through hole appears - water begins to flow out;
• complete the cut and drain the water - the risk of fire is guaranteed to be eliminated.

Principle of operation

Let's take a closer look at the operation diagram of a homemade potbelly stove:

• Combustion air is supplied through the ash pan to the furnace firebox;
• During the combustion process, heat is released, which heats the bricks and walls of the furnace;
• smoke, soot and combustion products are drawn out through the chimney;
• combustion regulation to obtain the necessary heat transfer is carried out by increasing/decreasing the open gap of the blower door;
• a potbelly stove is heated using various types of both liquid and solid fuel (firewood, mining, diesel fuel, coal, peat).

Potbelly stove under development

A potbelly stove, the fuel for which is not wood, but waste oil, has its own characteristics. It can be either a small stove for a regular garage or a device designed for heating large areas. In any case, all models work on the same principle and have similar designs and operating principles.

• The potbelly stove has 2 parts. Used oil is poured into the lower part, where it is heated and brought to a boil.
• The vapors are drawn through a perforated pipe for oxygen access, where their initial afterburning occurs.
• The vapors are completely oxidized and burned in the upper part connected to the chimney.
• The temperature in the lower container is relatively low; the upper chamber heats up to the maximum, heating the room. Its walls can even glow from the heat. Accordingly, this affects the choice of material for making cameras.

Drawing diagram of a potbelly stove during testing with conventional dimensions and proportions.

Let's consider the advantages of potbelly stoves during testing.

• Unpretentiousness and “independence”. There is no need to constantly add firewood or perform any actions; the main requirement is the correct adjustment of the filler neck gap (10-15 mm).
• Efficient heat dissipation.
• There is no soot from the chimney, the stove does not smoke.
• Relative fire safety, since waste fuel is difficult to ignite, and only oil vapors burn.

Flaws:

• noisiness;
• a characteristic odor (sometimes it is eliminated by installing a water circuit or an air heat exchanger with a supercharged fan, which directs part of the air from the chimney to another room for heating);
• the combustion chamber (connecting pipe with perforation) and the chimney have to be cleaned quite often;
• the coked layer of burnt oil in the lower chamber is also quite problematic to remove.

When using a potbelly stove with waste fuel, you must adhere to the mandatory rules.

• It is not allowed to use waste oil with gasoline or other flammable impurities.
• Filtration of waste from solid particles is required.
• Water should not be allowed to enter the mining area.
• Strong drafts are not allowed.
• Compliance with all fire safety regulations when installing a stove indoors.
• Reliable ventilation is a must.

• It is strictly forbidden to leave the stove unattended or sleep while the stove is running.
• Do not use water for extinguishing!
• Horizontal sections of the chimney hood are prohibited. The permissible angle of inclination of the chimney is 45°.
• The chimney should have a length of 4 to 7 m.
• It is recommended to pour waste into the furnace to a height of less than? volume of the lower chamber.
• It is necessary to have a powder fire extinguisher and/or sand in the immediate vicinity of such a stove.

DIY making

Drawings and dimensions

The potbelly stove will produce maximum efficiency provided that it complies with the calculations made.

Let's look at the design of the chimney.

• The vertical part (up to 2 m) is covered with fireproof thermal insulation.
• The pipe is inclined or parallel to the floor (2.5-4.5 m), the distance from the ceiling in the absence of heat-resistant protection is 1.5 m, from the floor – 2.2 m;
• The diameter of the chimney must be calculated with great accuracy so that its operating speed is less than the rate of fuel combustion, and it does not throw out all the heated air along with combustion products outside immediately, but allows it to heat the walls, which is the main feature of this type of stove. The calculated permeability of the pipe should be 2.7 times the volume of the firebox. That is, with a firebox with a volume of 40 liters, the chimney should have a diameter of 106 mm.
• If there are grates in the potbelly stove, the height of the firebox is calculated from the top of the grate.
• Complete combustion of fuel can be ensured by creating a high temperature, which can be achieved by using a metal or brick three-sided screen around the potbelly stove. Install it with a gap of about 70 mm from it. Heat reflection also has a fire-fighting function.

• Bedding or a fireproof surface under the stove is strictly necessary, because:
  • thermal radiation from the furnace emanates in all directions, including downwards;
  • the floor can become very hot, which can lead to a fire.

Sheet metal is used as bedding; the area is 350-400 mm larger than the vertical projection of the stove on the floor (preferably 700 mm). You can use sheets made from other fireproof materials with a thickness of more than 1 cm.

Chimneys are installed differently in different rooms.

• Part of the pipe is routed through the wall of the garage; this is the most common type.
• The chimney is completely left inside the garage box and exits through the roof. Thus, the garage is heated better, but the installation process itself is much more labor-intensive.

Required materials and tools

To make your own potbelly stove in the garage, you will need the following materials and tools:

• sheet metal for making an ash pan and a hob if the stove is located horizontally;
• metal for the chimney pipe (preferably with two elbows);
• materials for fixing grates and supports;
• oven doors;

• cast iron discs;
• welding machine;
• sander;
• welding wire/electrodes;

• hammer;
• tape measure/tape;
• chisel;
• pliers;
• drill;
• metal stripping brush;
• chalk pencil.

Let's look at the manufacturing process step by step.

• As already mentioned, the stove can be manufactured in horizontal and vertical versions.
• The dimensions of the stove are selected based on the dimensions of the garage box, taking into account all fire safety measures.
• The walls must be welded from sheet metal with a thickness of more than 4 mm.
• The grate is welded inside the firebox or placed on fastenings welded to the walls of the firebox from the inside (removable version). It can be purchased in retail chains or made with your own hands from a sheet of steel by drilling holes no more than 20 mm in diameter, or from thick wire.
• Weld the bottom.

• Cut a convenient hole for fuel supply and 5-7 cm lower for the ash pan.
• The doors can be made from sheet steel yourself, or you can purchase a ready-made cast iron block.
• The stove is installed in the selected location in the garage.
• At this stage the chimney is attached. The longer its area indoors, the warmer it is in the garage, since it also heats the air around it.
• At the last stage of work, you need to put the potbelly stove on its legs. They are made from profile pieces, joined by welding or screwed to the body. You can also use a metal box without a front wall (used as a woodshed), and the materials for the base can be bricks or forged elements.

Where to place it?

Compliance with fire safety rules when using a potbelly stove in a garage is vitally important. Here we are talking about both the safety of the car and the preservation of the life of the person himself. The location of the stove is one of the important tasks. Most often, the corner of the garage box formed by two walls, which is located opposite the gate, is chosen. Direct contact between the stove and the car is strictly prohibited.

The distance must exceed one and a half meters. Similar conditions must be observed for the distance from flammable substances and objects.

The surface of the walls near the stove must be covered with fire-resistant material. They can be additionally lined with brick. If the garage is wooden, then the distance from the surface of the stove to the nearest wall should exceed 1 m.

If a potbelly stove is used for heating or cooking, it is very important to follow the rules of its operation. Their implementation, in addition to fire safety, will help increase its service life.

• Before the first kindling, the stove must be checked and made sure that all connections and components are tight, and any defects must be immediately corrected in order to avoid the penetration of combustion products and carbon monoxide into the garage.
• For certain reasons, the chimney must be vented outside. The part of it located inside the garage space must be sealed.
• The chimney is strictly prohibited from being routed into the ventilation system. Even if the stove is installed in the basement, it must have a separate chimney.
• The passages of the wall or ceiling of the smoke exhaust pipe must be insulated with fire-resistant, non-fire-hazardous materials.

• A box of sand and a fire extinguisher must be kept in the garage in accordance with fire safety regulations.
• A potbelly stove is also used as a stove and for boiling water. To do this, install a hob with burners on it (usually made from a cast iron stove) or a tank for heating water.
• The potbelly stove heats up quickly, but also cools down quickly. This disadvantage can be partially compensated for by a brick screen that accumulates heat and returns it to the room as it cools after the potbelly stove goes out.

Direct contact between the screen and the potbelly stove is prohibited. The gap between them is left at least 10 cm.

• Typically, a brick screen has a significant weight, so it will most likely require its own foundation. Let's consider the stages of its manufacture.
  1. Dig a hole about 50 cm deep.
  2. The bottom of the pit is covered with a layer of sand (average sand consumption is 3-4 buckets) and compacted.
  3. The next layer is 10-15 cm of crushed stone, which is also compacted.
  4. The laid layers are leveled, then filled with a layer of cement mortar.
  5. Wait for the cement layer to completely harden. The longer the hardening time, the better (usually the time period is more than a day or longer, this will give additional strength to the foundation).
  6. Then several layers of roofing felt are laid.
  7. The screen itself is laid out in half a brick, the initial two rows are made with continuous masonry on roofing felt. In the 3-4th row it is necessary to make ventilation gaps, then again continue laying the brick in a continuous layer.

The correct methods for cleaning a potbelly stove mainly come down to removing contaminants inside the chimney, which is done relatively rarely. Mostly a brush is used. It is quite possible to make it yourself from a cylinder-shaped brush, tying it to a rope.

It is best to use brushes with plastic or iron wire bristles. The diameter of the brush is selected in such a way that there is no significant resistance when passing through the chimney.

Cleaning is used to increase the passage of smoke flow through the pipe and improve heat transfer. Sequence of the cleaning process:

• plug the combustion hole with a rag;
• make 2-3 careful movements with the brush so as not to break the seal of the chimney (stop if the brush moves freely);

Often homeowners prefer to assemble simple and useful homemade products from scrap and unnecessary materials, instead of buying ready-made ones. And a potbelly stove is one of these useful devices.

The main feature of a potbelly stove is that it heats up as quickly as it cools down. Therefore, the scope of its use is narrowed mainly to those rooms where it is necessary to provide rapid heating, while the appearance of the device is often completely unimportant for the user.

You can make a potbelly stove with your own hands, and, if desired, modernize it to achieve more efficient heat transfer.

Are you also thinking about assembling such a homemade product and don’t know where to start? We will help you in implementing the task - the article discusses the procedure for assembling various versions of a homemade stove, drawings and diagrams are provided.

Also discussed in detail are ways to improve a homemade potbelly stove, as a result of which the efficiency of the stove will become noticeably higher.

The choice of furnace design depends on what material is used as fuel. Each user himself determines the degree of its availability and economic feasibility.

It is the combustible material, which has different temperatures and combustion patterns, that dictates the principles for creating different modifications of the device.

The shape of a potbelly stove can be different, often depending on the availability of suitable material. This could be an old can, a gas cylinder, a metal container - whatever is at hand. The main thing when choosing it is the thickness of the metal and the shape, which requires a minimum of alterations.

Image gallery

A grate made of grate (it can be welded from reinforcement) is placed at the bottom of the chamber, under which ash will accumulate. You can also organize a hob. It is easier to do this on a horizontally located cylinder by welding corners on it on both sides.

It’s good if the barrel initially has legs. If not, you need to weld them or install the stove on bricks.

A potbelly stove made from a gas cylinder can also be used as a basis for the further construction of a hot water column, as it is also called “Titan”. To do this, a stainless container is installed on top of the stove, through which the chimney pipe passes.

The water in a wood-burning boiler heats up quickly, and little firewood is used - in the summer, one load into a small firebox is enough.

A metal container with walls at least 3 mm thick is also suitable for a potbelly stove. The open top of the container is closed with a circle of metal sheet and brewed.

A hole is cut out in the lid or wall for the chimney. Its diameter should be at least 100-150 mm. The top of such a potbelly stove will heat up so much that you can cook food and heat water on it.

We also have more detailed instructions on our website with diagrams and drawings for manufacturing.

Features of a sawdust stove

If there is no shortage of sawdust on the farm, then this type of fuel will fully justify its use. Such a potbelly stove does not require frequent loading - the compacted sawdust inside does not burn, it smolders slowly, releasing thermal energy gradually and providing heat for a long time.

A self-made sawdust stove operates on the principle of long-term combustion. The slow combustion process saves resources - heat does not immediately fly out into the chimney, heating the atmosphere

The basis of the furnace can be a metal barrel with an open top (if the container is sealed, the top is cut off) or a pipe with a diameter of 300 to 600 mm.

Then a metal circle is cut out of a sheet three or more millimeters thick, which should be smaller than the inner diameter of the barrel. In its middle, a hole with a diameter of 100 mm is cut under a cone for compacting sawdust.

The workpiece is welded to the walls of the barrel. Using this circle, the ash pit is fenced off - in it, with the help of shavings or wood chips, ignition will be carried out. The height of the ash pan should be 100-200 mm.

Below the welded circle, a window is cut out, which will serve as a blower. Curtains are welded to the cut piece of metal, making a door for the same hole.

An exit to the chimney is made in the lid of the container. The lid must fit tightly onto the potbelly stove and be made of a fairly thick sheet, otherwise it will quickly burn out.

In order for sawdust to burn gradually, it is necessary to ensure a limited supply of oxygen to the fuel compartment. To do this, a cone-shaped core is inserted inside the firebox, sawdust is poured around it and compacted. The cone is carefully removed, turning, and the lid is put on the barrel.

The same model can be improved by adding an additional cylinder. In this option, the sawdust will be in the inner chamber, and the space between the two compartments will serve to burn gases and increase the heating area. In this option, the outlet of smoky gases is arranged in the lower part of the stove.

How can you improve your potbelly stove?

An ordinary potbelly stove has a lot of positive qualities, but also has many significant disadvantages. It is unable to accumulate heat and heats the room while the fire is burning. Requires continuous fuel supply, on average every 30-40 minutes.

In addition, a large amount of heat escapes through the chimney into the atmosphere, bringing no benefit. That is why work on improving the potbelly stove is ongoing.

The standard design of a potbelly stove has many modernized designs that allow:

• save fuel;
• increase the efficiency of the stove;
• increase heat capacity;
• reduce the frequency of fuel filling.

The most common methods for increasing the efficiency of a potbelly stove are creating a slow burning mode, a gas afterburning system, and installing heat-resistant lining of the internal walls.

You can also improve the quality performance of the stove by increasing the heat transfer area using welded pipes and an installed fan that will drive air flows through them.

The industrial model of such a potbelly stove is called “Buleryan”, but besides it, there are many different designs made by handicraft. We recommend watching a detailed master class on homemade production.

You can increase the heat transfer time if you line the stove with brickwork. Such a potbelly stove will heat up more slowly, but will also give off heat longer, maintaining the temperature in the room for some time after the fire has died out.

Are you interested in brickwork? On our website we have a detailed DIY guide with diagrams and drawings.

Option #1 – stove with increased fuel load

This model is designed to increase efficiency and continuous burning time. The basis is taken as a horizontal rectangular potbelly stove on massive, stable legs and complemented with a cassette made of a blind sealed cylinder. Such design additions significantly increase its efficiency.

A flange is welded to a cassette cylinder about 400 mm high. After installing the cylinder into the burner hole, its edge should fall 5-10 mm below the stove plate. To make it easy to install and remove the cylinder, handles are welded to its body.

The cylinder is filled with firewood in such a way that there is some space between them and when installing it on the stove, they can immediately fall onto the burning coals

How does a potbelly stove work:

1. The lower part of the firewood, falling on the coals of the preparatory ignition, flares up. In this case, the upper part, located in the cassette, will not burn due to lack of oxygen, but will dry under the influence of hot smoke.
2. Under the weight of its own mass and as it burns, the firewood gradually falls into the firebox.
3. The hot gas, which is in the cylinder for some time, gives off heat to it, thereby increasing the heat transfer area in the room. In this case, the cylinder cover can serve as a cooking surface.
4. At the same time, the temperature of the exhaust smoke decreases, which means the heat capacity and efficiency of the potbelly stove increases.

As a result of this modernization, the time interval between laying firewood increases and the efficiency of using the stove increases.

Option #2 – long-burning potbelly stove “Bubafonya”

The low efficiency of a conventional potbelly stove is a fact that has long been known and verified by many users.

One of the methods to increase it is to slow down the combustion process by limiting the flow of air into the combustion chamber. This improvement can be found in such stoves as “Bubafonya” and “Filipina”.

This model of potbelly stove is used in non-residential premises - workshops, greenhouses, and other outbuildings. To work for 9-12 hours, one stack of small firewood, chips, and sawdust is enough. Coarsely chopped and damp firewood cannot be used in this heating device model.

A potbelly stove can be created from any metal tank. Most often they use a barrel of fuel and lubricants or an old cylinder.

Manufacturing is carried out in the following sequence:

• A combustion chamber is prepared from an accessible cylindrical container, in the upper part of which a hole is cut for the chimney.
• A circle is cut out of metal (at least 10 mm thick), slightly smaller than the inner diameter of the barrel.
• A hole with a diameter of 100-150 mm is made in the center of the circle (the exact size depends on the diameter of the rod pipe used).
• Ribs up to 50 mm high are welded onto one of the planes of the circle.
• A pipe is welded to the center of the circle. Its length is calculated so that the piston, when lowered, rises above the reservoir lid by approximately 100 mm. If you leave the pipe longer than necessary, draft will arise in it and it will begin to smoke.
• Next, they build a lid that will fit tightly on the barrel and cut a hole in it that fits the piston pipe

You can further increase the efficiency of this model by organizing the supply of air from the street into the firebox. Thus, heated air from the room will not fly out into the chimney.

Option #3 – furnace with secondary combustion “Filipina”

The furnace uses two methods to increase its efficiency, based on the principles of long-term combustion and pyrolysis. To make it, you will need two gas cylinders, which will serve as chambers for primary and secondary combustion.

The sequence of actions for making a potbelly stove is as follows:

1. The cylinders are prepared for use by releasing the remaining gas from them and filling them with water. Without this procedure, it is absolutely impossible to cut them, otherwise the sparks that are formed during the operation of the angle grinder can provoke a gas explosion, a certain amount of which always remains in the cylinder.
2. In the first cylinder, which will serve as a chamber for the firebox and ash pan, remove the tap and cut off the top (it is used to make the door), and cut out a hole for installing a chimney.
3. Opposite the hole for the chimney, a pipe is welded, the other end of which should not rest against the lid of the second chamber, leaving free space for smoke to escape.
4. At the outlet of the pipe from the first cylinder, a metal ring is welded; it will serve as a support for installing the upper cylinder. Holes are drilled in it.
5. A metal ring is also welded to the second cylinder where the top is cut, in which the locations for the holes are marked, focusing on the holes already made in the first ring.
6. Before finally installing the second cylinder, an air supply pipe is inserted into it.
7. Place the upper chamber on the pipe, aligning the holes, wind a heat-resistant rope between the rings, and secure the connection with screws.
8. The chimney exit is made from the bottom of the secondary combustion chamber.

To obtain a stable structure, reliable legs are welded to the lower chamber. Install the door on the awnings. It can be further improved by adding the ability to regulate the air entering the firebox.

A compact stove for heating a small room, commonly called a potbelly stove, will soon celebrate its 100th anniversary. Having appeared in the 1920s, such metal stoves with a chimney became simply irreplaceable during the Great Patriotic War. The potbelly stove has not given up its position to this day, remaining a necessary attribute of a garage, greenhouse or country house. Such a stove is needed wherever people need to warm up and cook food, despite the lack of central heating.

A potbelly stove has its advantages and disadvantages. The undoubted advantages of such a heating device include:

• energy independence and autonomy;
• cheap fuel in the form of coal, firewood, sawdust, wood chips, peat, waste technical oil, diesel fuel, paint waste, etc.;
• fast heating;
• small dimensions;
• installation without foundation;
• no capital required;
• ease of operation;
• low financial costs if you make your own stove.

However, the potbelly stove also has disadvantages:

• good ventilation in the room is required;
• high fuel consumption;
• the need for constant monitoring of fuel levels;
• rapid cooling (however, this drawback can be corrected - to increase the efficiency, the stove can be lined with bricks).

Note: If you feel the need for such a device, then you have two options - buy an industrially made metal stove or make it yourself.

First, we’ll talk about purchased potbelly stoves, the cost of which starts from about 4,000 rubles (for example, the Ugolek stove) and rising to 40,000 rubles and above (this cost is typical for potbelly fireplaces with the beautiful names “Bavaria”, “Baron” and etc.).

With heat exchanger

In the middle of this price range fall, for example, potbelly stoves with a water heating circuit and a heat exchanger, an army cast-iron stove, and a long-burning potbelly stove of the Klondike type.

The materials for stoves and potbelly fireplaces manufactured in workshops are usually stainless steel and cast iron. The standard drawing assumes the presence of a bunker with a firebox door, an ash pan, and a chimney pipe. However, it happens that a potbelly stove is equipped with a hob, burners and even an oven. The enterprises also produce heater stoves, as well as potbelly stove fireplaces, in which, to increase efficiency, a ceramic or steel casing is installed, which significantly increases heat transfer. If you wish, you can buy a fireplace-stove for your home or just a stove with a gas generator.

Homemade potbelly stove

It’s not difficult to make a potbelly stove with your own hands, even without a drawing. Available materials are suitable for the work, be it a gas cylinder, a milk can, a barrel, a piece of pipe or sheet iron lying around in the garage. Having decided what you can put into action, choose a drawing of a rectangular or circular section of the combustion chamber for your potbelly stove with your own hands.

For example, you need to do the heating in your country house yourself and you have an unused milk can (for arranging the stove itself), a bent piece of pipe (for creating a chimney) and a piece of metal fittings with a diameter of at least 6 mm (for the grate). To make a stove out of all this, you just need to be familiar with the tools, as well as use a little ingenuity.

The can is installed on its side - this is the basis of our home-made potbelly stove, its combustion chamber. A rectangular blower is cut out under the neck, the edges are processed with a file. The blower can be left in this form, or you can attach a damper to it, resulting in an output stove with adjustable draft.

In the upper part of the bottom of the can you need to make the markings for the chimney yourself (it should be 2-3 mm less than the diameter of the pipe). We cut out a hole and tightly push a piece of pipe adapted for the chimney into it. Half the work is done.

Next we deal with the insides of the potbelly stove. With our own hands we make a grate in the form of a “snake” from a metal rod. We insert the rod into the neck of the can and position it so that the grate stands horizontally in the future combustion chamber. That's all! If desired, you can place the resulting stove on an iron pallet and a rack of bricks. This will help avoid heating the floor and also reduce the likelihood of a fire to a minimum.

Note that a similar algorithm of actions can also be applied if you want to have a potbelly stove from a barrel. Such stoves cannot boast of long-term burning, but they cope well with the function of quickly heating the room.

Second life of a gas cylinder

A good idea for a small stove is to reuse containers that can withstand high heat. We have already talked about barrels, but how about, for example, a potbelly stove made from a gas cylinder or even two? These containers are good because they allow you to make your own stove for a country house or garage, both vertically and horizontally.

To create such a potbelly stove you will need the following tools:

• welding machine;
• grinding machine with wheels;
• drill with drills;
• brush with metal bristles;
• tape measure and construction pencil for marking;
• hammer, chisel, pliers.

The materials you need to make your own stove are:

• 1 or 2 gas cylinders;
• Metal sheet for the ash pan and hob (thickness must be at least 3 mm);
• cast iron doors (old ones, for example, from a wood-burning stove, or ones made by yourself from sheet metal, will do);
• chimney pipe;
• thick metal fittings for making legs and grate.

Before starting work on a gas cylinder, open the valve and leave it in this state for at least 12 hours to ventilate the container. Another way to clean a bottle is to fill it to the top with water and then empty it completely.

For a vertical stove-stove, the gas cylinder is placed in its standard position, the neck is emptied and markings are made for the future firebox and vent. The marked pieces are cut out with a grinder. The grate is made separately - for this, fittings cut to the required dimensions are welded in the places marked at the bottom of the cylinder.

Hinges are welded to the cylinder on which the doors are hung. Next, latches are installed, which are designed to protect and increase the efficiency of the potbelly stove. A smoke exhaust pipe is welded on top or on the side of the cylinder.

For a horizontal potbelly stove-stove, the cylinder is installed on the “legs” sideways. A square hole is cut in it for the door and a round one for the chimney pipe. Instead of a grate, a series of holes are drilled at the bottom, and a rectangular container for collecting ash is welded below the cylinder. The stove is almost ready, all that remains is to hang the door with your own hands and install the chimney.

If desired, the set of vertical and horizontal stoves made from gas cylinders can be expanded by adding a hob made from a sheet of metal attached to the top.

Free fuel

Note: If you want to minimize the cost of fuel for a potbelly stove, consider making a homemade structure for heating using automobile oil drained from the car.

The potbelly stove is especially good for garage owners. Its design drawing includes two tanks connected by a pipe, as well as a chimney.

To create a stove for mining you will need the following materials:

1. Metal 4 mm thick for a potbelly stove.
2. Metal 6 mm thick for the top tank cover.
3. Metal rods for the legs of the stove (3-4 pieces of suitable thickness).
4. Pipe made of heat-resistant material for connecting tanks (diameter at least 100 mm, length about 400 mm).
5. Chimney pipe (length at least 4 m).

Work on the formation of a potbelly stove during mining is carried out in the following order:

1. Legs are welded to the lower tank.
2. A lid with holes made for oil and air is welded onto the top of this tank.
3. At least 50 holes with a diameter of 9 mm are made on the connecting tube.
4. Weld the tube to the lid of the lower tank.
5. A second tank with a filling neck and a chimney pipe is welded on top.

Using this potbelly stove is easy. Oil is poured into a cold device through the filler neck almost to the top, not reaching the reservoir cap by just a few centimeters. Kindling material in the form of rags or newsprint is also placed there. All you have to do is set it on fire, and soon you will enjoy the warmth.

As a rule, such stoves “consume” from 700 to 2000 ml of waste oil per hour. Potbelly stoves during mining allow you to boil water and cook simple food. However, their operation requires the presence of good ventilation in the room to remove carbon monoxide, as well as compliance with fire safety rules (you cannot place flammable materials near the stove, use flammable materials such as gasoline, acetone, etc.). The waste tank must be protected from water. Refilling with oil is carried out only after the stove has completely cooled down.

Sheet metal

How to make a potbelly stove from metal? You can implement this project yourself if you have welding experience and the necessary tools. The following materials will be needed:

• sheet metal (its quantity determines the size of the stove);
• steel corners 5 mm thick;
• metal tube about 30 cm long;
• pipe with a diameter of 180 mm.

To obtain a potbelly stove-stove, you need to weld a rectangle of metal sheets joined end-to-end (without a lid yet). On one side, place the ash pan and the firebox door. The internal space of the stove is divided into smoke circulation, firebox and ash pan.

In the last two compartments, a grate is installed that will hold solid fuel. To do this, steel corners are welded inside the potbelly stove on the sides at a height of up to 15 cm. A pre-welded grate is placed on them (it can be made from steel strips welded to thick metal rods at a distance of about 5 cm). It is better to make the grate removable, so that later, when it burns out, you can easily replace it. In addition, the removable grille design makes cleaning the heating device easier.

Let's return to the construction of the stove. To increase the efficiency of the potbelly stove, you can make fastenings for a removable reflector (a metal sheet with a thickness of at least 12 mm), which will separate the firebox and smoke circulation. To do this, two metal rods are welded on top. After installing the reflector, you should have a smoke channel.

Having arranged the insides of the potbelly stove, you can weld the top metal sheet, which will become the lid of the structure. A hole is made in advance to secure the chimney pipe. Next, the stove is equipped with jumpers that delimit the doors made for the ash pan, reflector and grate. As a rule, a small door is installed under the ash pan, but two steel doors are made to fit the full width of the stove, so that it is convenient to remove the reflector and grill.

The next stage is welding the latches and legs to the structure (metal tubes with a diameter of up to 3 cm and a length of 10 cm are suitable for them), as well as chimney pipes from a curved pipe with a diameter of about 18 cm (note that the chimney is placed on a 20-centimeter sleeve ). The sheet metal potbelly stove is ready.

Warm brick

A potbelly stove using wood, coal and other types of fuel can significantly increase its efficiency. To do this, it is enough to build a screen of baked clay bricks around it with your own hands. If you look closely at the drawings of such a mini-building, you will see that the bricks are laid at a short distance from the walls of the stove (about 10-15 cm), and, if desired, around the chimney.

Bricks require a foundation. Do you want the masonry to last a long time? Then fill the base one at a time to form a monolith. It is better to take concrete as the material for the foundation, which should be reinforced with steel reinforcement yourself. It is advisable to place the reinforcement layer at a distance of approximately 5 cm from the surface of the concrete pad.

Ventilation holes are made at the bottom and top of the brickwork, which will ensure air movement (heated masses will go up, cold air flows will come from below). Ventilation also prolongs the life of the metal walls of the potbelly stove, delaying the moment of their burning due to cooling by circulating air.

Bricks laid around the stove accumulate heat and then release it for a long time, warming the air in the room even after the stove goes out. In addition, brickwork additionally protects objects surrounding the stove from fire.

If desired, you can completely lay out the stove from brick. Such a structure is advantageous in that it will last for many years without additional effort on the part of the owner. However, there are also certain disadvantages. The disadvantages of this option include the following:

• the process of laying out such a stove is quite labor-intensive and is suitable only for those people who have experience in masonry with their own hands;
• A potbelly stove made of brick is quite expensive, as it requires the use of fire-resistant materials, including special clay for mortar.

In order to get a small potbelly stove with wood, it is enough to lay out a cone measuring 2 by 2.5 bricks, 9 bricks high. In the combustion chamber, rows 2-4 are laid out of fireclay bricks. An ordinary fired clay brick is suitable for a chimney, into which you must remember to insert a stainless steel sleeve.

Whatever the method of making a miniature stove or potbelly fireplace with your own hands, whether you make them according to a drawing or by eye, the main thing is that at the end you get an effective heating device, and in an expanded configuration also a hob for cooking. Look around for suitable materials (barrels, sheet iron, etc.) and go ahead to your own homemade stove or even a potbelly stove!

Many people are faced with the need to organize heating in small utility rooms. What is important here is efficiency, compactness and feasibility of financial costs. A long-burning potbelly stove is an ideal option for heating cabins and garages, and our instructions will help you make it yourself.

Housing: make or adapt

Firewood in a long-burning potbelly stove does not burn, but smolders very slowly. At the same time, highly heated pyrolysis gas, formed due to the thermal decomposition of the fuel, burns in the chamber adjacent to the firebox. In this “stifled” operating mode, the furnace does not generate very high temperatures, so the metal can be quite thin - about 2.5 mm. Naturally, with a full air supply, the oven will heat up red-hot, so if you want a high-power mode, make the body massive.

The duration of operation of the stove between fillings depends on two factors: the mass of the stored fuel and the activity of its combustion. Therefore, you should not expect that a compact garage stove will be able to operate for up to three days; it simply will not have enough fuel for such a period. The ambient temperature also plays a role: the lower it is, the more active the combustion process is.

Sheet steel is ideal for making the body. It is also possible to use any profile rolled metal, folded in vertical rows into a ring or rectangle. There is a problem in welding all the seams, but in this case the oven receives multiple stiffening ribs and transfers heat as efficiently as possible.

The body of the potbelly stove is made very simply: solid sealed walls and a bottom. Loading can be vertical or horizontal; in the latter case, the top cover plays the role of the combustion door. We will consider both spatial positions of the potbelly stove, but the body will be unified for each. Let's take a 50 liter propane cylinder with a cut off top as an example - a cylindrical body has the advantage of more uniform heating.

Scheme of operation of a long-burning potbelly stove with a horizontal combustion chamber. 1. Chimney damper. 2. Door flap. 3. Combustion chamber. 4. Pyrolysis gas afterburning chamber. 5. Stove door

Scheme of operation of a long-burning potbelly stove with a horizontal combustion chamber. 1. Air supply damper. 2. Chimney damper. 3. Air supply pipe. 4. Combustion chamber. 5. Stove lid. 6. Pyrolysis gas afterburning chamber. 7. Piston

How are combustion chambers arranged?

To obtain the coveted pyrolysis gas, it is necessary to almost completely limit the flow of oxygen into the main furnace, where a center of high temperatures is formed, leading to the transition of carbon fuel into a gaseous state. The minimum amount of air needed for slow smoldering enters the furnace due to various leaks.

Having placed the cylinder horizontally, we divide the circle heightwise into 4 parts, put marks on the cut edge and mark the length of the upper and lower chord. According to the obtained size, we cut out a steel plate 3 mm thick. Its length should be 150 mm less than the depth of the body.

Stepping back 100 mm from the short edge of the plate, we weld a transverse partition 150 mm high and fit it in shape to the cylindrical body so that the plate is directed towards the center of the firebox. We install and weld the plate, forming a residual combustion chamber.

Potbelly stoves with vertical loading have a different operating principle. Their combustion direction is opposite to natural - from top to bottom. The stove itself has a syringe device, the piston of which is made of sheet steel, or a lid from a barrel or cylinder with bent edges. It is important that the “piston” fits into the body as tightly as possible.

From the bottom side, several spacer ribs from a regular 50 or 75 mm angle are welded onto the plate. A hole is cut in the center of the plate and a 75 mm pipe is welded through which the required minimum air will flow. The principle of operation is clear: the piston sags under its own weight as the wood burns, leaving a small space for pyrolysis decomposition. The air flow is controlled by a damper at the end of the pipe.

Simple and convenient “ash pan”

In a long-burning potbelly stove, an ash pan is not needed; a small amount of light ash after combustion remains directly in the firebox. But you can still adapt the stove for easier cleaning, especially if you plan to add coal to the firewood.

1. Stops from the corner. 2. Grate over the ash pan

If the potbelly stove is positioned horizontally, you need to cut out the same plate that was used to form the upper chamber. Instead of a partition, it has a regular 35 mm corner welded transversely. In the front part, a handle is made from a thin rod. The plate is installed on two guide angles welded along the body. To ensure a tight fit of the plate and avoid strong air leaks, it is recommended to do the following:

• weld the corners under the bottom of the plate with the shelves up on small tacks that are easy to break off;
• insert the plate into the body and weld the corners to the walls, filling the thick weld seam well;
• insert a crowbar into the lower chamber and undermine the plate, if possible, clean out the weld marks.

Through small cracks, the minimum amount of oxygen required for combustion will enter the chamber.

1. Disc. 2. Holder made of reinforcement. 3. Side of the ash pit

For a vertical potbelly stove, you need to cut out another flat disk and weld a piece of thick steel reinforcement to it in the center. A side made of steel strip is bent and welded along the perimeter of the circle. In both cases, ash removal is carried out after the potbelly stove has cooled: the ash pan is removed, cleaned and put in place before a new filling.

Installation of the combustion door

We grab a steel strip to the body of the horizontal potbelly stove and wrap it around, forming a ring. It is necessary to trim the edges several times so that after welding such a mandrel sits very tightly on the edge of the body. The ring is welded to a cut-off lid from a barrel or cylinder, or to a steel sheet, then the seam is carefully scalded from the outside. The strip should protrude above the plane of the lid by about 12-15 mm, this is enough for a tight lid, at the same time the firebox will open relatively easily.

Several steel plates are welded on the inside of the door to form grooves for the internal partitions of the firebox. Because of the annular rebate, the door itself must be installed on a remote canopy; accordingly, the clamping lock must also be moved to the side by 40-60 mm.

1. Cover. 2. Air duct with damper. 3. Canopy

When loading vertically, the lid acts as the outer wall of the afterburning chamber, so it does not require careful sealing. The edges of the vertical body are bent inward with a hammer; on the contrary, the side of the lid needs to be slightly flared. In this case, it is important not to bend the lid itself, then the connection will be tight under its own weight. A hole is cut in the center 1-2 mm larger than the diameter of the air supply pipe.

Chimney duct and draft adjustment

The removal of combustion products in a horizontal potbelly stove is carried out in the upper part and as close as possible to the firebox lid. For the chimney, it is recommended to use a pipe with a diameter of at least 150 mm. Air is supplied through a sleeve welded through the door, extending 70-100 mm into the lower chamber. To regulate the air supply, it is better to use ready-made units with a damper. Quickly and on the spot, you can weld a small bolt from the outside to the pipe, which will tighten the butterfly valve.

The chimney of a vertical potbelly stove cuts into the same place in the body, but now, accordingly, it is located horizontally. If you drill a through passage and pass a pin through it, on which a round plate is attached, you can get a damper to adjust the draft and completely control the fuel combustion process.