Control of powdery mildew on plants: protection and treatment against powdery mildew. Diseases of indoor flowers: powdery mildew

14.06.2019

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Powdery mildew– quickly spreading fungal disease plants. Initially, a white powdery coating appears on the leaves, similar to flour or powder. It can be easily wiped off with your finger and even mistaken for ordinary dust. But it was not there! Before you know it, this infection will appear again, and even in more, capturing more and more new habitat areas. Not only the leaves become white, but also the stems and flower stalks. Gradually, old leaves turn yellow and lose turgor. New ones grow ugly and twisted. If measures are not taken to cure powdery mildew, the plant will die.

This is what powdery mildew deposits look like when zoomed in:

Ulcers at the site of mycelium formation

Powdery mildew disease: where does it come from?

The weather outside is cool (15.5-26.5°C), damp (humidity 60-80%), cloudy (for example, during the rainy season). Weather conditions have a particularly great influence on outdoor and balcony plants; when grown in rooms they are not so noticeable;
there is a large amount of nitrogen in the soil;
plantings are thickened;
The watering schedule is not followed. For example, a plant is often watered without waiting for the top layer of soil to dry. Or, on the contrary, they regularly dry out the earthen ball and then fill it with water. All this leads to impaired immunity and, as a result, the appearance of powdery mildew.

Besides these external conditions already “awakened” spores can end up on flowers:

by air (from infected trees or plants);
through irrigation water (if spores got there);
through your hands (if you touched an infected plant and then touched a healthy one).

Powdery mildew can completely destroy a plant in a short time

Proper agricultural technology is an important condition in the fight against powdery mildew

The fight against powdery mildew is an integrated approach. First, you need to put in order the agricultural technology for growing the affected plant. This means:

watering only after the top layer of soil has dried;
while fighting powdery mildew, completely stop spraying;
if possible, move the affected specimen to a lighter area, sunny place until powdery mildew is cured;
thin out thickened plantings, tear off old leaves that touch the ground;
for the period of remission - less nitrogen fertilizers, more phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (in case of illness - no fertilizers at all).

All errors in care must be corrected, otherwise powdery mildew will appear regularly. Now let's talk about direct treatment.

How to fight powdery mildew: therapeutic spraying and watering

To get rid of powdery mildew, do the following:

Cut off the affected (yellow, lacking turgor) leaves and all flower stalks. If powdery mildew appears on roses, petunias, chrysanthemums and similar bushy plants, it is advisable to carry out radical pruning. The more damaged branches are destroyed, the greater the chance of recovery;
replace the top layer of soil in a container, pot or under a plant in a flowerbed - entire colonies of mushroom mycelium are hiding there;
carry out therapeutic spraying and watering of the plant with one of the medicinal preparations. When spraying, you should strive to wet all the leaves and shoots abundantly. The plant should pour like after a spring shower. There are more effective method: pour the medicinal solution into a basin and dip the bush into it. The soil is also generously moistened with the solution by spraying with a spray bottle or watering. The walls of pots and pallets are also processed.

Powdery mildew: folk remedies

Let’s make a reservation right away: folk remedies for powdery mildew are effective as a preventive measure or initial stages spread of the disease. If the destructive process started a long time ago, more than 5-7 days ago, it is already useless to fight in this way. It may be possible to stop the development of the disease, but not completely eliminate it.

The most famous and effective folk remedies Powdery mildew is prepared as follows:

1. From soda ash and soap

25 g of soda ash dissolved in 5 l hot water, add 5 g liquid soap. Spray the plants and top layer of soil with a cooled solution 2-3 times at weekly intervals.

A protective preparation against powdery mildew is prepared from soda ash and liquid soap (preferably laundry soap)

2. From baking soda and soap

Dissolve 1 tbsp in 4 liters of water. l. baking soda and 1/2 tsp. liquid soap. Spraying is performed 2-3 times with an interval of 6-7 days.

3. Potassium permanganate solution

2.5 g of potassium permanganate is dissolved in 10 liters of water and used 2-3 times with an interval of 5 days.

4. Whey solution

The serum is diluted with water 1:10. The resulting solution forms a film on the leaves and stems, which makes it difficult for the mycelium to breathe. At the same time, the plant itself receives additional nutrition useful substances and becomes healthier, which affects the improvement of his appearance. Treatment with whey solution is carried out in dry weather, at least 3 times, with an interval of 3 days.

5. Horsetail decoction

100 g of horsetail (fresh) is poured into 1 liter of water and left for 24 hours. Place on fire and boil for 1-2 hours. Filter, cool, dilute with water in a concentration of 1:5 and spray the bushes. The concentrate can be stored in a cool, dark place for no more than a week. Horsetail spraying can be carried out regularly to prevent powdery mildew in the spring and summer. In the fight against an existing disease (in initial stage) effective 3-4 times spraying every 5 days.

6. Copper-soap solution

This remedy for powdery mildew is different high degree effectiveness, thanks to the inclusion of a well-known fungicidal drug - copper sulfate. 5 g of copper sulfate are diluted in a glass (250 ml) of hot water. Separately in 5 l warm water dissolve 50 g of soap. After this, carefully pour the solution with vitriol into the soap solution in a thin stream and with constant stirring. The resulting emulsion is sprayed on plants 2-3 times with an interval of 6-7 days.

7. Mustard solution

Mix 1-2 tbsp into 10 liters of hot water. dry mustard. The cooled solution is good for both spraying and watering.

8. Ash + soap

Mix 1 kg of ash in 10 liters of heated (30-40°C) water. The solution is infused, stirring regularly, for about 3-7 days. Then pour the liquid component (without the ash suspension) into a clean bucket, add a little liquid soap, pour it into a sprayer and carry out the treatment. Spray the plants every day or every other day 3 times. Add 10 liters of water to a bucket with ash particles that have sunk to the bottom, stir and use it for irrigation.

9. Infusion of rotted manure (better than cow manure)

Fill the rotted manure with water in a ratio of 1:3 and leave for 3 days. Then dilute the concentrate twice with water and spray the bushes.

10. Garlic infusion

25 g of garlic (chopped) are poured into 1 liter of water, kept for 1 day, filtered and sprayed on the collection.

Powdery mildew: treatment with chemicals

If powdery mildew appears on your flowers, combating it is most effective with the help of modern fungicidal agents. They have a detrimental effect on the fungus, stop harmful processes in plant cells, protect and treat it. Spraying is carried out 1-4 times with an interval of 7-10 days (depending on the selected drug).

Chemicals for powdery mildew act quickly and effectively

The most effective drugs from powdery mildew:

Fundazol;
Topaz;
Acrobat MC;
Previkur;
Speed;
Vitaros;
Amistar extra.

A well-known fungicidal drug is phytosporin, the active ingredient of which is a concentrate of the bacteria Bacillus subtilis in a powder of chalk and humates. Despite the fact that phytosporin is considered a medicinal agent, it is practically useless against existing powdery mildew. However, as a preventive measure, it will work flawlessly.

Powdery mildew can occur on many types of plants, both outdoors and indoors. closed ground. IN room conditions Powdery mildew can be found on roses, gerberas, cineraria, Kalanchoe, begonias, cissus, and violets. The cause of the disease is stagnant, humid air and sharp fluctuations in room temperature.

Powdery mildew spreads when a diseased plant comes into contact with a healthy one, during watering, and is carried by insects or air flow. Treatment of powdery mildew should begin as early as possible.

Causes of powdery mildew on indoor plants

First of all, this is due to stagnant, humid air in the room and sharp temperature fluctuations. The spread of the disease also occurs through contact between sick and healthy plants, during watering, with air flow, and also when carried by insects.

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The cause of the development of the disease can be excessive use of nitrogen fertilizers, as well as a lack of calcium in combination with high temperature and indoor humidity. At the same time, abundant watering is not at all a reason for the development of powdery mildew.

Signs of damage to indoor plants by powdery mildew

Gradually, the whiteness takes over the stems and other parts of the indoor plant. Over time, the spots increase in size, the mycelium thickens (becomes felt), the plaque darkens and acquires a brownish color.

It should be noted that flowers can also be affected by downy mildew (downy mildew), the external signs of which are similar to real linen. But, unlike real mildew, downy mildew in the form of a coating appears only on the underside of the leaf blade, then the spots turn yellow, increase in size and then acquire a brownish color.

Folk remedies for combating powdery mildew on indoor plants

There are many safe for humans and plants folk remedies from powdery mildew. For example:

soap-soda solution: dissolve 50 g of soda ash or baking soda and 20 g of liquid or grated soap in 10 liters of water and treat the plants at least twice at intervals of a week;
whey solution: pour 1 liter of whey into 10 liters of water, stir and apply three times in dry weather with an interval of 3 days;
kefir solution: stir 1 liter of fermented kefir or yogurt in 10 liters of water and treat the plants three times with an interval of three days;
decoction horsetail: Pour 100 g of horsetail with one liter of water, leave for a day, boil over low heat for two hours, cool, strain, dilute with water 1:5 and carry out 3-4 treatments at intervals of five days. Undiluted, the decoction is stored in a cool, dark place for about a week;
mustard solution: dilute 2 tablespoons of mustard powder in 10 liters of warm water and spray or water the plants;
potassium permanganate solution: dissolve 5 g of potassium permanganate in 10 liters of water. This solution stops the development of the disease and washes away the fungus from the fruit;
ash solution: add 1 kg to 10 liters of water wood ash, stir, leave for 7 days, carefully drain, dissolve 20 g of liquid or grated soap in the infusion and treat the plants with this composition every other day;
garlic infusion: 50 g of garlic pulp (crushed cloves and shoots of garlic) are poured with two liters of water, infused for two days and filtered. Use the infusion undiluted;
infusion of onion peels: 200 g of onion peels are poured into 10 liters of boiling water, infused for two days, filtered and sprayed on the plants before flowering, after it and before leaf fall.

Special chemical preparations for powdery mildew on indoor plants

Articles for flower growers

The most effective drugs for powdery mildew:

Fundazol;
Topaz;
Acrobat MC;
Previkur;
Speed;
Vitaros;
Amistar extra.

Prevention of powdery mildew on indoor plants

Like most other plant diseases, powdery mildew is easier to prevent than to cure. Therefore, prevention is the first remedy against such a fungus. And any prevention is, first of all, correct agricultural technology. To minimize the risk of infection you should:

- regularly thin out plantings;
- remove old leaves in contact with the ground;
- water the plants only after the top layer of soil is completely dry;
— do not abuse nitrogen fertilizers;
— carry out phosphorus-potassium fertilizing on time.

Another type of prevention against powdery mildew can be carried out in early spring, before the leaves bloom. Berry bushes and other perennials are simply scalded with boiling water. This must be done quickly, using a watering can with a diffuser. You should pour over all the branches as a whole, without lingering long in one place.

A short-term exposure to very hot water does not have time to harm plants that have not yet fully awakened from winter. But spores, mycelium, like pathogens of other diseases, die. A jet of steam under pressure produced using a household steam cleaner has a similar effect.

Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that affects a huge number of ornamental, vegetable, fruit and berry plants.

The most common pathogens - fungi of the species Podosphaera fuliginea and Erysiphe cichoracearum - are non-selective; they infect a wide range of plants: most often from garden crops melons suffer: cucumbers, pumpkins, zucchini, melons, watermelons; berry bushes: gooseberries, currants, affected fruit trees, as well as berry plants.

There are also specific pathogens characteristic of specific plants, for example, the causative agent of powdery mildew of grapes - the species Oidium tuckeri. That’s why powdery mildew on grapes is called: Oidium.

Garden flowers are very susceptible to spheroteca; sometimes powdery mildew gets on indoor flowers when cut from a store or garden.

Symptoms

Powdery mildew is easy to identify, as it has quite characteristic symptoms. It begins with the appearance of small white spots on the upper side of the leaf. Gradually, the spots increase and cover the entire leaf, moving to the entire above-ground part of the plant. As the disease progresses, the spots become larger, denser and whiter: the bushes look like they have been drenched lime mortar. And upon closer inspection, the leaves seem to be covered the thinnest layer cotton wool or cobwebs is the white mycelium of the fungus, consisting of numerous conidia collected in chains.

In fruit plants, bush growth is disrupted, wood on maturing shoots does not ripen, and as a result, plants suffer greatly from frost, especially grapes. In addition, the spheroteca very quickly moves from the leaves to the ovaries and fruits, you can be left completely without a harvest, since berries and fruits affected by a white coating are unsuitable for food.

With vegetables the situation is more complicated - since tropical plants consume a huge amount nutrients on the growth and formation of fruits, very often they simply cannot cope with the infection and die. Powdery mildew seriously threatens cucumbers and tomatoes.

Where does powdery mildew come from?

Spherotheca pathogens reproduce both sexually and asexually.

Asexual reproduction occurs with the help of conidia - these are immobile spores, so named from the Greek konia - dust and eidos - species. It is the chains of conidia that we see on the leaves of infected plants in the form white plaque, they easily separate from each other and are carried by the wind over a considerable distance. So throughout summer season Reinfection of new shoots and plants occurs regularly.
Sexual reproduction occurs through spore-bearing structures called cleistothecia. This fruiting body of the fungus is composed of very tightly intertwined hyphae and can contain millions of spore bags, each of which usually contains four to eight ascospores. Cleistothecia overwinter on fallen leaves, and in the spring the ascospores mature, are released and give rise to a new focus of infection.

At the moment when cleistothecia form, the coating on the leaves turns from white to gray, then brown - the fruiting bodies themselves (cleistothecia) are brown or black in color, and the size does not exceed 0.2 mm.

Conditions for the development of powdery mildew

The incubation period under favorable conditions for powdery mildew is 5 to 10 days, depending on the temperature. For example, at a temperature of about +15°C, the period from the onset of infection to the formation of conidia is about five days.

The favorable temperature for the formation of conidia is from +5°C to +28°C, but mass development occurs at +20°C. The disease is promoted by relative air humidity of 60–80% in the absence of precipitation. Directly during rains, the spread of the disease is inhibited - colonies of conidia remain on the leaves, but when precipitation stops, the soil evaporates moisture for a long time, and rapid growth of the pathogen occurs.

Therefore, it is after heavy rains that the development of the spheroteca occurs rapidly; in 2-3 days the gooseberry bush can become covered with a white coating.

The denser the planting of seedlings, flowers, vegetables, tree crowns, the higher the air humidity, less traffic wind and stronger local infection occurs within the garden area.

What contributes to the rapid development of powdery mildew?

Infection occurs most quickly when alternating warm, dry days and rain, then the humidity does not fall below 60%. Although infection can occur even at a relative humidity of about 50%.

The application of excess amounts of nitrogen fertilizers or weather conditions that favor the conversion of nitrogen into an assimilable form enhance the development of fungal diseases (oidium, rust, septoria, etc.). Excess means more than 0.6 kg of active substance per 1 hundred square meters.

The conditions necessary for spore maturation vary among different types pathogens of powdery mildew, for example, with powdery mildew of grapes (Oidium), the mycelium grows best at 25–30°C, i.e. how hotter weather, the faster the vineyards are affected.

Young leaves are most susceptible to spheroteca damage - within 16-20 days after deployment.

Prevention of powdery mildew

If powdery mildew has already been noticed on your garden plot, in early spring, as soon as fruit bushes the leaves begin to unfurl, spray the bushes with Topaz or Vectra (their action is aimed specifically at powdery mold). After 2 weeks, repeat spraying the leaves and formed ovaries. The third spraying will be after harvesting.

Observe general rules prevention:

Destroy infected plant debris by burning all leaves and shoots that show signs of disease.
Weed weeds; many are prone to infection.
Maintain crop rotation and do not replant crops susceptible to powdery mildew in the same place.
Buy seedlings and seeds of plants that are genetically resistant to diseases.
Ensure sufficient air circulation, avoid crowding of plantings, thin out seedlings and seedlings.
Disinfect the tools you use for pruning or tying (ribbons and ropes, pruning shears, etc.).
If you use the principle of sprinkling, then water vegetables and berries in the morning so that the plants have the opportunity to dry out during the day. Better yet, choose a system drip irrigation- this will help keep the leaves dry.
Don't overdo it with nitrogen fertilizers, but apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizers regularly.

Powdery mildew serum

Whey works best as a preventative rather than a treatment; it is worth using if you notice infected plants, trees or weeds somewhere near your site. Susceptible crops need to be protected: gooseberries, currants, roses, etc.

There is no difference in what to spray with - milk or whey (reverse) - only in price, both products contain milk proteins, which is what we need.

No one knows exactly how whey works against fungus; it is assumed that milk proteins have an antiseptic effect when exposed to sunlight. Therefore, treatment with milk and whey is carried out not in the evening, but at 10-11 am in sunny weather. You need to wet both sides of the leaves with the milk solution until it flows to the ground.

How to dilute whey with water against powdery mildew: for 1 part milk (whey), take 2 - 3 parts water. Spray the solution on the leaves of plants every 10-14 days. If you wish, you can do it more often – once a week.

Sometimes you can find a recipe for powdery mildew, where skim milk, whey, sour milk or kefir (yogurt) are used in a 1:10 dilution with cold water. Believe me - it doesn't work, the concentration is too weak! We dilute 1:2 or 1:3 and repeat every week.

Powdery mildew ash

Good prevention of spheroteca, i.e. spraying before symptoms of the disease appear - ash treatment. To do this, take 1 kg of clean wood ash, sifted from debris, and pour 10 liters of water. Leave the solution to infuse for 3 - 5 days, stirring occasionally. Add a couple of spoons of grated soap. Strain the solution through a thin cotton cloth into the sprayer to avoid clogging the sprayer.

Powdery mildew - control measures

If powdery mildew has already spread on fruit and berry bushes, flowers or vegetables, you need not only general techniques agricultural techniques, such as loosening and thinning, but also the use of various fungicides or chemicals. And even at this stage it may already be too late, for example, in berry fields with obvious signs of the disease, it is too late to use chemicals, because poisons remain in the fruits for up to 20-30 days. On grapes, you need to start treating powdery mildew at the very beginning of the growing season, when the shoots have formed only 3-5 leaves.

Let's look at the most common treatment methods.

Iodine for powdery mildew

We take medical iodine, measure 10 ml with a syringe and dissolve it in 10 liters of water. We thoroughly moisten the leaves of infected plants with this solution.

On roses, you can use a more concentrated solution: 20 ml of alcohol tincture of iodine per 7 liters of water.

If you do not have a syringe to measure, count as drops, for example, to treat cucumbers from powdery mildew, 30 drops of iodine per 10 liters of water. But since cucumbers do not tend to retain moisture on the leaves, you need to add an adhesive: a couple of tablespoons of grated laundry soap or green potash.

Fitosporin-M for powdery mildew

How to breed:

Fitosporin-M powder - 1 g per 1 liter of water or 10 g per 10 liters of water
Fitosporin-M liquid - 0.6 ml per 1 liter of water or 6 g per 10 liters of water, 20 drops per 200 ml of water.
Fitosporin-M paste, how to dilute read

Mouthwash

In America, gardening centers recommend using a universal ethanol-based (antibacterial) mouthwash from Spheroteka. We can see similar ones on sale, for example, “Forest Balsam”. Jeff Gillman, Director Botanical Garden at the University of North Carolina, the author of books about plants (Organic Gardening) claims that this recipe for powdery mildew works effectively: one part mouthwash and three parts water. True, they warn that such a solution must be used with caution - it can damage young, newly unfurled leaves. Therefore, he advises it is better to use commercial fungicides.

Our compatriot, the famous gardener Galina Kizima, advises: it is important to carry out preventive spraying of the garden in the first half of summer. According to her recommendations, we do this:

Take a 1.5 liter bottle and pour 500 ml of water.
Throw 2-3 grains of the drug into the bottle Healthy garden and 2-3 grains of the drug Ecoberin.
Close the lid and shake the bottle vigorously until the grains dissolve.
Add water to a volume of 1 liter.
Add 6 drops of Zircon, 4 drops of Cytovit, 8 drops to the solution.

You need to spray everything with this solution. fruit and berry bushes and plants, vegetable seedlings, young trees. For powdery mildew, spray when the first leaves open, then after flowering and after harvesting.

Galina Aleksandrovna calls this cocktail protective against a complex of diseases and pests.

Naturally, for a summer cottage you need to prepare large volume solution, it is better to prepare in small batches, or recalculate for 5 liters of water. Do not store the solution! Do not spray in the sun, spray in cloudy weather or in the evening.

Fungicides for powdery mildew

Copper-soap solution: 20-30 g of copper sulfate and 200-300 g of soap per 10 liters of water. To prepare, dissolve copper sulfate and soap separately in a small amount of hot water, then pour the copper sulfate solution into the soap solution in a thin stream, stirring constantly. Strain and spray.

Copper-soda solution: Dilute 50 g of soda ash and 200 g of soap (laundry, tar) in 2 liters of hot water. Separately, dilute 10 g of copper sulfate in a glass of water, pour in a thin stream into a solution of soda and soap. Add water to 10 liters of solution volume. Stir, strain, spray.

From effective fungicides against powdery mildew, you can choose: bayleton, but, quadris, rayok, skor, tilt, topaz, topsin, thiovit jet, khom, oksikhom, etc. Some drugs are available in small packaging for personal households, some can only be obtained in collective purchases, since they are sold for Agriculture in large containers (quadris, bravo, bayleton, etc.)

Agromedicine, Chistoflor, Forecast - contain propiconazole, dilute 10 ml per 10 liters of water, maximum 3 treatments: spraying at the beginning of the growing season, before flowering and after harvesting.
Rayok, Chistotsvet, contain difenoconazole, dilute 2 g per 10 liters of water, maximum 4 treatments: the first - on the green cone, the rest - after 12-14 days. For flowers and ornamental plants and shrubs dilute 2 ml per 5 liters of water.
, contains penconazole, dilute 6-8 g per 10 liters of water, no more than 4 treatments, waiting period - 20 days.
Vectra, contains bromuconazole, dilute 3 mg per 10 liters, only 3 treatments: the first - after flowering, the second - after 12-15 days, the third - after harvesting, do not spray during flowering!
Alirin and Gamair, dilute 2 tablets per 1 liter of water.

Consumption of the working solution is up to 2 liters per currant bush, gooseberry bush or young fruit tree 5-6 years old, up to 5 liters per large fruit-bearing tree. When spraying grapes, the fungicide consumption is 10-15 liters per hundred square meters.

It is not recommended to use fungicides based on the same active ingredient for more than three times, although some manufacturers recommend four times. Stop all fungicide treatments 20 days before harvest!

Video: treating gooseberries with iodine for powdery mildew

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The fight against powdery mildew (ashtray), a widespread and dangerous disease for many plants, should be carried out at the very first signs of its appearance. If timely measures are not taken, flowers quickly lose their decorative value, the most affected parts of the plant die, ovaries do not form, as a result, weakened plants die, and those left to overwinter may freeze out.

Infection usually begins with lower leaves, gradually moving to the younger parts:

petioles;
shoots;
buds;
opened leaves.

The naked eye sees only small white spots; with magnification, the threads of the fungus are clearly visible - the mycelium, which resembles a thick cobweb. Mycelial spores are easily separated from the general chain and in the form white powder spread around.

Pathogens persist and overwinter on plant debris, tree bark, dry foliage underneath them, and the surface of greenhouse structures.

What the affected plants look like (photo)

This disease is easily recognizable due to the white or light gray coating on the surface, which serves as a kind of business card.

Powdery mildew on roses, which are quite susceptible to the disease, literally disfigures the leaf blades of the bushes, they lose their shape and fall off prematurely, and when the buds are heavily infected, they bend and freeze without blooming.

Petunia, as if sprinkled with flour, becomes covered with small dark sores within a few days, the leaves quickly turn yellow and die. The resulting young leaves grow crooked and defective (photo). In a short time, powdery mildew on petunias spreads to the entire plant, as a result of which the flower may even die without treatment.

Powdery mildew on petunia

Causes provoking the appearance and development of the disease

Spores of powdery mildew fungi live in the soil and wait for the most favorable moment to settle on living vegetation and begin to reproduce. They show their activity under certain conditions:

violation of the watering regime (excessive or frequent wetting, especially in cool weather);
densely planted or improperly formed bushes, due to which the sun does not penetrate inside and there is no ventilation;
incorrect quantitative ratio of nitrogen and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, when excess nitrogen causes rapid growth of foliage (it becomes succulent, soft and susceptible to disease);
optimal temperature and humidity conditions for the pathogen (humidity 80-90%, temperature 15-170 C).

To prevent powdery mildew from developing rapidly on roses, timely measures are taken to combat it, trying to avoid excessive humidity, and adjust the composition of nutrient mixtures.

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Development of downy mildew

Frequent rains, creating a humid environment, allow the formation of mycelial spores that penetrate inside the plants and begin to grow there with high speed. This is how downy mildew or peronosporosis develops. Spots form on the leaves, and over time a whitish, gray or purple fluff appears on the leaves. back side leaves.

Downy mildew, unlike real mildew, begins to damage bushes from the top.

Later, reproductive organs that look like dark dots mature on the affected and dried leaves. These are fruiting bodies that are carriers of mature zoospores, which subsequently infect healthy plants.

Downy mildew that settles on roses is very similar to another common disease - black spot. Modern fungicides will help get rid of peronospora.

Preventing powdery mildew outbreaks

The most effective remedy against powdery mildew - do not turn the area into a breeding ground for the disease. Spores of true or downy mildew overwinter on plant debris and dry leaves that have not been removed from the site. Therefore, all vegetation is removed, regardless of whether it was infected or not.

If possible, choose plant varieties that are resistant to powdery mildew. It is important not to allow excess nitrogen fertilizers and not to forget about phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

It is also advisable to carry out preventive treatment of plants, especially those that are not resistant to this disease or growing next to crops already affected by powdery mildew.

Throughout growing season roses and other plants, it is necessary to get rid of weeds growing around the bushes, and keep the soil loose.

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Folk remedies for protecting roses and other flowers

One universal remedy powdery mildew cannot be found; combating the disease requires a set of measures that take plants under protection. It should also be taken into account that folk (gentle) methods can only help at the very initial stage of the development of the disease.

Among the many recipes, there are the most popular ones that have an effective effect on pathogens and stop their development:

Laundry soap and soda ash. Dilute 25 g of soda with 5 liters of water and add 5 grams of soap (you can use liquid soap) and stir. Spraying is carried out several times every 3-4 days.

Laundry soap
Soda ash

Fermented whey solution. Whey (1 liter) is stirred in 10 liters of water and the resulting solution is used to treat the crops. As a result, a film appears on the leaves, preventing the mycelium from breathing, and its development is weakened.
Infusion of ash. It is necessary to pour 500 g of dry ash into 5 liters of water and leave for 5 days, stirring the infusion from time to time. Allows to settle well, carefully drains and treats flowers and shrubs.

Dry ash

An effective remedy in the fight against powdery mildew on roses is the bacterial treatment method: pour a third of a bucket of fresh manure with cold water and, stirring occasionally, leave for three days. The resulting extract is filtered through a piece thick fabric, diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10, used in the evening to avoid sunburn. Before each treatment, a new extract is prepared so that getting rid of the disease is effective.

After using this solution, downy mildew also stops its development.

With the onset of heat, stable dry weather, when the development of the mycelium subsides, it may seem that powdery mildew has receded and there is no need to continue treatment. But this is just complacency; after a while, the question may arise again: how to get rid of powdery mildew on roses and other plants? Therefore, it is necessary to continue treatment for the purpose of prevention, protecting crops from a new wave of damage.

Chemical exposure to powdery mildew

Fungicidal agents are created specifically to cope with the task: cure a diseased plant. Powdery mildew preparations “Topsin M”, “Flint Star” and “Topaz” are considered recognized systemic agents, the active ingredients of which suppress the formation of new fungal spores.

Such preparations are quickly absorbed and distributed throughout the vascular system of roses (and other crops), without causing significant harm to the plants themselves. "Topaz"

“Topaz” can be used even in damp weather, when protection is especially needed. In the first days it disinfects the plant, and in the next 10-12 days it blocks further development of the disease.

Before you start spraying, you need to remove the most affected leaves and shoots from the plants, then literally every centimeter of the bush is thoroughly and generously treated with freshly prepared Topaz. The remaining solution is not stored. When processing, safety rules must be observed.

IN medicinal purposes treatment with the drug should be repeated after two weeks; as a prophylactic agent, it is enough to apply it 2-3 times per season.

Downy mildew cannot be treated with Topaz; to destroy it, drugs such as Ridomil Gold and Copper Oxide are used.

With proper prevention and timely treatment, powdery mildew will not cause significant harm to your green pets.