White currant: planting, care, pruning and propagation. Black currant: planting and care, pruning and propagation Remontant currant planting and care

Of all the varieties of currants, black currants are considered the most healthy and aromatic. But in order for the plant to flourish and delight you with a good harvest, it is important to follow simple rules of care and know little tricks when planting it. Below we will talk in detail about where, how and when it is best to plant blackcurrant seedlings, as well as about the features of pruning and fertilizing this berry bush.

What to consider when landing?

Planting black currants is not as complicated a process as it might seem at first glance. The main thing is to choose the right time and place for planting, as well as prepare the soil. First, let's discuss the features of the soil that is optimal for black currants.

Priming

Loamy soils are ideal for currants. It grows poorly in acidic and swampy areas, so additional preparatory work. To reduce acidity, you must first add it to the ground when digging in spring or autumn. slaked lime or wood ash.

Lighting

In order for the bush to bear fruit well and the berries to be ripe and sweet, the plant needs a lot of sun. Therefore, when choosing a place for planting, you should give preference to well-lit areas of the garden.

Distance

Currants tend to grow into large and wide bushes, and this is good, because the larger the bush, the more berries it contains. Large bushes usually have a well-branched root system, which means they need sufficient distance between plants. It is recommended to plant them in rows, with a distance between them of at least 1.8 meters, and between bushes in a row - at least 70 centimeters. Then the plants will have enough space and nutrients.

Pre-fertilizer

Fertilizer can be applied both in the fall, when preparing the site, and immediately before planting currants. In the second case, it is better to do this one to one and a half weeks in advance, so that the minerals have time to be absorbed into the soil and do not burn the roots of the plant. In the most urgent case, fertilizer can be applied a couple of days before planting and mixed well with the substrate. It is risky to place fertilizer directly into the holes, as it can seriously damage the roots.

Fertilizers can be either organic (humus, manure, chicken droppings) or mineral - complex or containing one of the necessary minerals, such as phosphorus, potassium or nitrogen.

Disembarkation time

The most favorable time for planting is late autumn, about two to three weeks before the onset of cold weather. Usually, black currants are planted in the fall in late October - early November.

When planting in spring, it is important not to miss right moment— currants are one of the first to bloom, so they need to be planted as early as possible.

Planting: a step-by-step guide

The first thing we do is form a hole in the selected place in the soil that has been dug up and cleared of weeds. To do this, you need to dig a hole up to half a meter deep and the width corresponding to the size of the root system. If you decide to apply fertilizer to the hole itself, then do it and wait another week. When planting in spring, you need to start preparing the hole in the fall.

Now you can start planting. It is important that the roots of the plant are kept moist before and during planting. It is best to put the roots in water 2-3 hours before planting so that they are saturated with water.

It doesn’t matter whether you plant a thin twig or a small bush, you need to do it at an angle. Place the plant in the hole somewhere at an angle of 60 degrees, so that the three lower buds end up in the ground. This planting will help the bush become wider and produce more shoots.

Having sprinkled the roots with soil, you need to slightly compact (but not compact!) the top layer of soil and water the bush generously. The above-ground part of the shoot must be cut off, leaving only the three lower buds. This pruning will prevent premature aging of the bush.

Above we discussed how blackcurrant seedlings are planted . But there is another way to propagate this plant - by cuttings.

To do this, we will need cuttings with three to four buds, 18-20 cm long. They need to be cut in spring or autumn.

Then they are planted in prepared and weed-free soil, with a distance of 12-15 centimeters between them. Only one bud is left above the ground. Planting blackcurrant cuttings is a common way to propagate the plant.

Currant care

It is not enough to plant black currants correctly, because without proper care, even the strongest plant can die. That’s why not only proper fit is important, but also care.

Watering

Currants love moisture, so timely watering is the basis for the prosperity of the bush on your site. Watering is especially important when the berries are ripening - then they will be large and juicy. Otherwise, even if abundant flowering you can get shriveled, small and sour berries.
True, it is also important to observe moderation here - too much watering on loamy soils can lead to rotting of the roots.

Loosening and mulching

Loosening is no less important. By keeping the top layer of soil loose, you ensure that the plant's roots receive enough oxygen. It is also good to remove weeds.

Mulching (covering) the top layer of soil will retain as much moisture as possible and prevent weeds from germinating. You can use hay, newspapers, chopped weed tops, tomatoes, fallen leaves, etc. as mulch. You should not use walnut leaves or pine sawdust, as they can worsen the properties of the soil. When using newspapers as mulch, you need to remember that during flowering they need to be removed, because during this period insects beneficial to the plant come to the surface.

Fertilizer

Black currants need to be fed not only in spring, but also in important stages seasonal life of the plant: flowering and formation of berries. You can use chicken manure dissolved in water, ash, or complex fertilizer in granules as feed. When using the latter, it is better to cover the granules with a layer of soil or mulch.

Trimming

Best way to prune bushes late autumn or early spring. This achieves three important goals - thinning the bush, rejuvenation and removal of diseased shoots.

Thinning will allow you to keep the bush not thickened, will provide good access to sunlight to all shoots, and therefore better ripening of the berries. To do this, about 20 percent of the shoots are removed from the middle of the bush. The need for thinning can be easily determined visually.

Rejuvenation of the bush is carried out by removing old branches. This frees up space for young shoots and the plant bears fruit longer and more efficiently.

By removing diseased shoots, you prevent infection of nearby healthy ones, and thus improve the health of the bush. Most often, diseased shoots are also easy to identify by their appearance. You can notice them even during flowering and fruiting. If there were almost no flowers and berries on the shoot, then most likely it is sick and you can safely remove it.

Black currant- popular garden culture, extremely healthy and tasty. Currants are widely used in household: it is eaten in fresh, make preserves, jams, jellies, and preserve.

Compotes and juices, various tinctures, liqueurs and wines are prepared from the berries. From the article you will learn when and how to plant currants, care from planting to picking berries, proper pruning of bushes, propagation by cuttings, pest control, popular varieties currants.

A perennial shrub from the gooseberry family. The height of the bushes is up to 2 meters with fluffy pale green shoots that change color with age to brown.

The root system is fibrous, going to a depth of 20-40 cm.

A currant bush consists of branches of different ages located at different levels, thanks to which the currant bears fruit for 12-15 years.

In the spring, at a temperature of +5 degrees, the buds swell, flowering appears at +11 +15 degrees, because of this it is affected by spring frosts.

Most currant varieties do not require pollination and are also frost-resistant. Currant leaves are used in preservation (very fragrant), and tea is also brewed from them.

The berries have a sweet and sour taste, a strong aroma, and are rich in vitamins and microelements. The high content of vitamin C makes currants very healthy, good remedy for the prevention of diseases.

Planting currants

When to plant blackcurrant cuttings

Currants are propagated by cuttings, layering, and dividing the bush. Young green cuttings take root and begin to grow at any time during the growing season of the plant.

How to plant seedlings in autumn

It is best to plant black currants in the fall, in early October. Before the onset of spring, the seedlings will take root and quickly grow.

Currants are suitable for fertile soil, preferably light loam with a slightly alkaline reaction. It is better to plant seedlings in lighted places; if there is shading, the berries will not be sweet and the amount of harvest will decrease.

Before planting, the soil is dug up to a depth of 20-22 cm and fertilizers are applied: 2-4 kg of organic, 100-150 g of superphosphate, 20-30 g of potassium sulfate per 1 m 2 of land.

The planting hole is 50 cm in diameter and up to 40 cm deep, the distance between the bushes is 1.5 meters. Pour half a bucket of water into the hole, plant the seedling so that the root collar is at a depth of 5 cm, straighten the roots. Sprinkle the roots a little with soil, pour half a bucket of water and fill the hole to the top.

Mulch the top of the soil with humus or peat. Cut the shoots of seedlings at a height of 10-15 cm from the ground, leaving only 4-5 buds.

How to care for black currants

Caring for plants in spring is not difficult and is as follows:

Remove mite-affected buds;

Dig up the bushes and mulch the soil with humus or manure around the bushes;

Provide sufficient watering during the growth and flowering period;

Remove weeds and loosen the soil under the plants to a depth of 6 cm, 2-3 times a week. If the soil around the bush is mulched, loosening is not required;

After winter spend sanitary pruning currants;

In early spring, treat bushes against pests and diseases;

Apply nitrogen fertilizers;

During the flowering period, observe and inspect the flowers. If double inflorescences are detected, remove them to avoid spreading to other bushes.

Caring for currants in summer

Watering plays an important role when caring for currants in the hot summer. Also keep cleanliness between the bushes and remove weeds on time. Fertilize with organic fertilizers along with watering. Inspect the bushes all the time, and if pests or diseases are identified, take action, but do not treat them with chemicals three weeks before the berries ripen; folk remedies. When the berries begin to ripe, they need to be collected individually and selectively - only ripe ones as they ripen.

Caring for currants in autumn

After harvesting, be sure to water the currants, and you also need to loosen the soil. In the second half of September, apply fertilizers: organic and mineral, and also carry out formative pruning of currant bushes. In the fall, you need to start propagating and planting currants. For the winter, preventive treatment is carried out against pests and diseases.

Treatment against pests and diseases

In early spring, even before the buds swell, treat with a 1% solution of karbofos, copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture. The soil also needs to be treated. In autumn, remove all fallen leaves from the area with currants; pests will not breed in them. Carry out preventive treatment with the same drugs in the fall.

Watering currants

After a snowy winter, the plant does not need abundant watering. Otherwise, if there was little snow, it is necessary to water regularly. During the period of growth, formation of ovaries and ripening of berries, water the plants with warm water every 5 days. Water consumption is approximately 20-30 liters per 1 m2 of area, the soil should be wet to a depth of 40 cm. In case of dry autumn, water the currants generously for the winter.

Currant feeding

New bushes planted this year have enough fertilizer for growth and development, but when they are already 2 or more years old, they need to be fertilized regularly. Apply nitrogen fertilizer in the spring. For two-year-old plants: 40-50 g of urea; for 4-year-old or more plants, 20 g will be enough.

In the fall, apply 4-6 kg of organic fertilizer under each bush - manure, compost, chicken droppings. To organic add 50 g of superphosphate and 15 g of potassium sulfate.

Experts recommend spending it in summer (June-July) foliar feeding three times with the following solution: dilute separately 3 g of boric acid, 35 g of copper sulfate, 5 g of potassium permanganate, mix everything with 10 liters of water. After sunset or a cloudy day, spray the bushes with the mixture.

When and how to prune currants

Pruning currants in spring- carried out to achieve good harvests, remove unnecessary and weak shoots, so the plant does not waste energy on them. Last year's growths on branches 4-5 years old produce the most ovaries. Branches older than 6 years must be pruned. Dried and damaged branches are pruned. In the spring, before the buds open, the shoots of frozen and broken branches are shortened, and the main pruning is carried out in the fall, after the leaves have fallen.

Pruning in autumn- the shoot of the first year is cut at a height of 10-15 cm from the soil level. Two-year-old bushes are freed from zero shoots, leaving 3-5 strong branches. 3- and 4-year-old bushes are freed from zero shoots, leaving 3-6 of the most developed ones. Try to cut out underdeveloped and weak shoots in the middle of the bushes. On last year's branches, the tops are cut off, on 2- and 3-year-old branches, 3-4 buds are left on each branch, and the rest is cut off. Branches older than 6 years are removed completely. The cutting diagram is shown.

Proper pruning of currants - video

Black currants are propagated by woody or green cuttings.

Lignified cuttings

This is the most affordable and convenient way - planting material is available at any time of the year. You can plant cuttings for rooting from spring to autumn. The length of the cut cuttings is about 20 cm and 8-10 mm thick (the middle of one-year shoots, shoots growing from the root or 3-year-old branches is suitable), it is advisable to cut them from healthy plants.

When cutting cuttings, the top cut is made above the bud at a distance of 1 cm with a sharp pruner, and the bottom cut is made under the lower bud.

Most often, cuttings are planted in the spring, but it is better to plant cuttings in the fall, when the buds enter a dormant period: for black currants this is mid-September - early October.

Cuttings are planted at a distance of 10-15 cm between plants and 40 between rows, this makes it possible to care for currants in the summer and conveniently dig for planting on permanent place. It is better to mulch the soil with 3-5 cm of humus, this will prevent the soil from drying out. Also good option will use a film in which holes have been previously made for the cuttings. Watering is needed moderately, do not allow the soil to dry out. In summer, do not forget to feed the beds with mullein and weed the weeds.

If the bushes have time to form by autumn, they can be transplanted to a permanent place; if not, leave them for another season.

Green cuttings

Green cuttings are rooted only in a greenhouse. The length of the cutting is 5-10 cm with three green leaves. The cuttings are placed in water to form roots and after 2 weeks they are transplanted into a light peat soil mixture. During the first 3 weeks, spray the cuttings with water for better survival. After 1 month, the film can be removed, if the leaves remain green and elastic, the film is removed completely.

Control of diseases and pests of black currant

Currant diseases

List of common currant diseases:

-- septoria- white spotting, angular or round spots on the leaves, first brown, then light with a dark border;
-- anthracnose- small spots with small brown tubercles, leaves dry out and fall off starting from the lower branches;
-- terryness- you can see ugly flowers of a lilac hue, and the leaves on the young shoots have become dark, the currants stop bearing fruit;
-- gray rot- brown spots on currant leaves;
-- powdery mildew- white loose coating on berries and leaves, which turns into a brown film;
-- striped mosaic- you can notice a yellow pattern on the leaves around the main veins;
-- columnar rust- appears on the leaves: small yellow spots on the upper side, growths with spores on the lower side yellow color in the form of hairs.

Treatment may not always give results - viral diseases are not treated. The best prevention proper care of currants throughout the season and response to the slightest manifestations of diseases. For prevention, spray the soil and blackcurrant bushes with solutions of Bordeaux mixture, karbofos or copper sulfate in early spring before the buds swell.

Currant pests

Currant pests, species that can often be found:

-- pale-legged sawfly- its caterpillars eat the leaves, leaving only the veins;
-- biennial leaf roller- damage buds and berries;
-- moth- berries that are damaged ripen earlier than expected;
-- shoot aphid- Causes damage to leaves by feeding on sap. The leaves curl, dry out, the shoots stop growing and become bent;
-- kidney mite- damages the kidneys by climbing into them for the winter and eating them out from the inside;
-- spider mite- the leaves become marbled in color, dry out and fall off;
-- gall midges- they eat away currant shoots from the inside, which leads to their death. Flower gall midges damage the buds, after which they fall off;
-- fruit sawfly- causes damage to black currant berries, the berries take on a faceted shape.

Each type of pest is combated as it appears on the bushes. Treatment agents can be folk or chemicals - decide for yourself what to choose. But after carrying out prevention in early spring, when all the snow has not yet melted (the buds are still dormant), pour boiling water over the currant bushes from a watering can. This way you will destroy pests on the branches and in the ground under the bushes. After the snow has melted, treat the soil and bushes with Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate.

Care and pest control without chemicals - video

Winter-hardy varieties are suitable for growing in northern regions - Kent Goliath, Lia is fertile, Neapolitan.

They can also be divided into early, middle and late varieties based on ripening.

The most popular varieties:

-- Belarusian sweet- early, self-fertile variety With large berries, resistant to kidney mite and anthracnose;
-- Premiere- an early variety with large berries with a dessert taste. High yield. Resistant to mites;
-- Moscow- early variety, winter-hardy, self-fertile with large berries and average yield;
-- Boskop giant - mid-early variety with large sweet and sour berries;
-- Primorsky champion- an early variety with powerful bushes, wrinkled leaves and large round fruits on long clusters. They have winter hardiness and high yield;
-- Enchantress- medium ripening period of berries, low bush with large shiny fruits. High yield, resistant to pests and diseases;
-- Treasure - medium grade with a low bush and tasty, large berries. High-yielding variety. Moderately resistant to powdery mildew and bud mites;
-- Oryol serenade- mid-late variety with medium-sized berries and high yield. Resistant to diseases and pests;
-- Gross- late variety with bush height above average. Large berries weighing 5 g, high yield. Resistant to fungal diseases and moderately resistant to mites;
-- Kent- late variety with low-growing spreading bushes and large leaves. The berries are large, sour in taste, high yield.

This is a small part of the listed blackcurrant varieties from the whole variety, you make your choice based on weather conditions your region.

Wishing you high berry harvests!

Currant (lat. Ribes)- a genus of plants in the Gooseberry family, which includes up to two hundred plant species, of which about fifty are common in the Northern Hemisphere. In the 11th century, currants appeared in the monastery gardens of Rus', and only after that they migrated to European countries. Currants are a very popular garden crop in our country. In addition to black and red currants, white and golden currants are also cultivated today, but black currants prevail over other types both as the most delicious berry and as the healthiest.

In addition to the fact that it can be usefully consumed fresh, jam, jellies, compotes are made from it, wines, syrups, liqueurs and liqueurs are prepared. Currants are also in demand in medicine, as a raw material for the pharmaceutical industry.

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Planting and caring for currants

• Landing: It is possible in early spring, but it is better in early autumn.
• Lighting: bright light.
• The soil: non-acidic, well-drained and fertilized soil.
• Watering: regularly, approximately once every five days, spending 20-30 liters of water per 1 m² of plot: the soil should be wet to a depth of 30-40 cm. White and red currants are less moisture-loving.
• Trimming: In the spring, sanitary cleaning is done, and in the fall, during the leaf fall period, the main pruning of black currants is carried out. For white and red currants, spring pruning is sufficient.
• Feeding: if the soil was filled with fertilizers before planting currants, fertilizing begins only in the third year: nitrogen is applied to the site in early spring, three foliar feedings of the bushes are carried out in June-July, in the fall the soil in the root area is dug up with manure, compost or chicken droppings and with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer.
• Reproduction: arcuate layering, green and woody cuttings and rooting of two-year-old branches.
• Pests: pale-legged, fruit and yellow sawflies, biennial leafrollers, moths, shoot, gall and red gall aphids, moths, spider and kidney mites, glass beetles, gall midges.
• Diseases: anthracnose, septoria, white spot, terry, gray rot, goblet and columnar rust, necrosis of shoots and branches, powdery mildew, striped mosaic, nectria necrosis.

Read more about growing currants below.

Currant bushes - description

Currant is a perennial shrub plant, compact or spreading, one to two meters high with fluffy pale green shoots that turn brown with age. Every year new shoots grow from dormant buds. The currant rhizome is a powerful system, going 60 cm deep. The three- or five-lobed currant leaves have a diameter of three to twelve centimeters, a serrated edge, they are dark green on the upper side of the plate, and pubescent along the veins on the lower side. Bell-shaped light purple or pinkish flowers are collected in drooping racemes.

The fruit is a fragrant berry. The color and size of the berry depends on the type and variety of currant. Currants bloom in May-June and bear fruit in July-August. Fruiting begins already in the second year after planting. Along with such popular crops as strawberries, wild strawberries, raspberries, blackberries and blueberries, currants are grown not only in private gardens, but also on an industrial scale. Currants are a relative of the ubiquitously grown berry gooseberry.

Planting currants

When to plant currants

Among garden and berry crops, currants are long-lived; they begin to bear fruit the next year after planting, and if currants are cared for at the proper level, then one bush can bear fruit for more than fifteen years. And therefore, our task is to clarify for you such important issues for the longevity of the crop as planting and caring for currants. The best time to plant currants is the beginning of autumn, although in special cases you can plant currants in the spring.

Two-year-old currant seedlings with three skeletal roots are selected for planting. A store-bought seedling should be carefully inspected so as not to buy a sick or weak specimen.

Currants prefer to grow in a sunny, wind-protected location in well-drained, non-acidic soil. If you need to reduce the acidity of the soil on the site, then before planting currants, add 300-800 g of lime per m² to the soil for digging. In addition to lime, you need to add 2-4 kg of organic fertilizer, as well as 100-150 g of granulated superphosphate and 20-30 g of potassium sulfate for each m² of land. Digging depth is 20-22 cm.

Planting currants in autumn

The holes for planting currants should be approximately 55x55 and about 45 cm deep. The distance between them is one and a half to two meters. A bucket of humus, 100 g of superphosphate and 45 g of potassium chloride are added to each hole. To avoid burning the root system of the seedling, fertilizer is sprinkled on top with a layer of soil 7-9 cm thick. You need to dig holes and add fertilizer to them a couple of weeks before planting the seedlings, so that the soil has time to settle.

The seedlings are immersed in holes at an angle of 45º so that the root collar is at a depth of 5 cm. The roots are carefully straightened: this is necessary so that additional roots and shoots begin to form from the buds buried in the soil - this is how powerful currant bushes with a large number of strong branches. Lightly sprinkle the roots with soil, compact it, water the seedlings at the rate of half a bucket of water for each bush and fill the hole to the top with soil. Then make a furrow around the bush and pour water into it.

Mulch the soil under the bush with humus so that a crust does not form after watering. Trim the shoots of the seedling at a height of 10-15 cm from the ground so that there are only 4-5 buds on the short remains of the shoots, and you can stick the pieces into moist soil, where they will almost certainly take root.

Planting currants in spring

If you need to plant currants in the spring at any cost, do it before the sap begins to flow, until the buds on the seedlings begin to open. The whole inconvenience of planting currants in spring is that at the beginning of the growing season the time period when you can plant currants is too short - it begins to grow too early, and the soil may not yet warm up to the temperature necessary for the seedling to take root. It’s good if you guessed to dig a hole in the fall, and the soil in it has had time to settle, this will make your task easier.

Currant care

Caring for currants in spring

How to care for currants during the growing season? For convenience, we divided the period into three sections according to the seasons. Growing currants and caring for them in spring is not difficult and consists of the following:

• remove the buds affected by the mite, and if most of the buds are affected, then cut the shoots on the bush almost to the base;
• shallowly dig up the bush and mulch the soil around it with manure or humus;
• provide sufficient watering of currants during the growth and flowering period;
• remove weeds from the area and loosen the soil under the bushes to a depth of 6-8 cm at least 2-3 times a week. Mulch helps to avoid frequent loosening;
• carry out sanitary pruning of currants after winter;
• in early spring, carry out preventive treatment of currants against pests and diseases;
• in May, when currants begin to bloom, inspect the flowers and, if double inflorescences are found, cut them out, and if this phenomenon becomes widespread on some bush, uproot the bush so that the double inflorescence does not spread to other plants;
• fertilize currants with nitrogen fertilizers.

Caring for currants in summer

Watering, which currants really need, becomes especially important in the hot season. Read about how and when to water it in a special section. It is also necessary to monitor the cleanliness of the soil between the bushes and remove weeds in a timely manner. IN summer time you need to feed the currants with organic fertilizers, combining them with watering.

Carefully monitor the health of the plants and immediately respond to the slightest changes in their appearance, but do not treat currants with chemicals against diseases or pests later than three weeks before the berries ripen; try to use folk remedies. When the berries begin to ripen, collect them selectively as they ripen: black currants - one berry at a time, red and white - in tassels.

Caring for currants in autumn

After harvesting, currants need watering followed by loosening the soil. At the end of September, currants are fed with organic and mineral fertilizers and sanitary and formative pruning of the bushes is carried out. At the same time, they are engaged in planting and propagating currants. If the autumn turns out to be dry, carry out abundant pre-winter watering of currants and preventive treatment against pests and pathogens that have settled for the winter in the bark of shoots or in the soil under the bushes.

Currant processing

As is known, healthy plants rarely affected by diseases or pests, but preventive treatment of plants is necessary. How to spray currants so that they survive the season painlessly and produce a bountiful, high-quality harvest, especially since in early spring, along with the awakening of the buds, pathogenic bacteria, fungi, as well as larvae of harmful insects that have overwintered in the cracks of the currant bark or in top layer soil.

Before the buds on the bushes swell, treat the currants with a one percent solution of karbofos, Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate. You can spray the currants with nitrafen, not forgetting to treat the soil on the site. When growing season will come to an end, rake up all the fallen leaves and remove them from the site so that pests do not settle in them for the winter, and carry out autumn prevention by spraying the currant bushes and the soil around them with the already listed preparations.

Watering currants

If the winter was snowy, then the currant bushes in the spring frequent watering will not be needed, since the soil will be saturated with melt water. If there was no snow and there is little moisture in the ground, then you will have to water the currants regularly. During the period of formation of ovaries and filling of berries, especially if there is dry heat, currants require moistening the soil with warm water approximately once every five days. In order for the soil to get wet to a depth of 30-40 cm, the approximate consumption should be 20-30 liters per m² of area.

It is necessary to pour water under the bush so that drops of moisture do not fall on the fruits and leaves of the currant. It is best to make circular grooves 10-15 cm deep at a distance of 30-40 cm from the crown projection or arrange irrigation areas around the bushes, limiting their circumference with an earthen roller 15 cm high. At the end of the growing season, in case of a dry autumn, carry out pre-winter watering of currants, which will provide its roots with moisture until the end of winter.

Red and white currants are not so demanding on soil moisture.

Currant feeding

Newly planted bushes have received enough fertilizer to last for two years, but then there comes a time when it will be necessary to fertilize regularly. In early spring, currants need nitrogen fertilizers. Young two-year-old bushes will need 40-50 g of urea, and four-year-old and more mature bushes will need two feedings of 15-20 g each. In the fall, it is necessary to add four to six kilograms of organic fertilizer to the soil under each bush - chicken manure, manure or compost, according to 50 g of superphosphate and 15 g of potassium sulfate. This is the required minimum.

What else to feed currants with? to strengthen her immunity to diseases and pests and lay the foundation for good harvest? Experts recommend three foliar feedings of currants in June-July: 3 g of boric acid, 5 g of potassium permanganate and 35 g of copper sulfate are diluted separately and mixed with 10 liters of water. Bushes are sprayed with this composition after sunset or on a cloudy, windless day.

Currant pruning

Pruning currants in spring

Currant pruning is necessary so that the plant can bear fruit to its full potential, without wasting energy and nutrition on unnecessary and weak shoots. A larger number of berries are formed on last year's growths of four to five year old branches. Therefore, a currant branch that is more than six years old is a burden for the plant and must be removed. It is also necessary to rid the bush of branches that are dried out and affected by pests or diseases. If you remove unnecessary shoots in time, your currant, if it is black, can bear fruit for up to twenty years, and if it is red, then for fifteen years.

When and how to prune currants? The main pruning is carried out in the fall, after the leaves have fallen, and in the spring, before the buds open, shoots that have frozen over the winter are shortened to healthy tissue, and broken and dead branches are cut out. In summer, you can pinch the ends of young shoots to stimulate their tillering and give the bush the correct shape.

Pruning currants in autumn

For currants in the first year of growth, if you remember, during planting, all shoots are cut off at a height of 10-15 cm from ground level. Bushes of the second year of life are freed from zero shoots, leaving only 3-5 of the strongest of them, which will become skeletal branches in the future. On currant bushes of the third and fourth year, zero shoots are cut out, leaving 3-6 of the most developed ones. Do not allow the bushes to thicken; cut out underdeveloped and weak shoots from the middle of the bush. The tops of last year's shoots are trimmed.

The branches of the second and third years are pruned, leaving two to four buds on each branch. By this age, with proper and timely pruning, the bush is completely formed. At the next stage, branches older than six years appear, which should be cut at the root. All other branches are cut according to the described scheme.

Pruning red and white currants

Red and white currants are pruned in the spring. The principle and pattern of pruning are the same as for black currants, but the tops of the growths are not pinched, and the shoots of the second and third years are not shortened. Simply remove branches older than seven years (for these types of currants, these are considered old), cut out unnecessary new shoots, broken or diseased branches. If the old branch is still producing fruit, cut it back to the nearest strong fork. This will extend its life and fruiting period.

Currant propagation

How to propagate currants

Most often, currants are propagated vegetatively - by arcuate layering, lignified or green cuttings, and by rooting two-year-old branches from a bush. Red currants reproduce well by layering, but worse by cuttings. Seed propagation Only specialists can grow currants, and for an amateur gardener this is a long and unreliable method, so we will not describe how to propagate currants by seeds.

Propagation of currants by cuttings

Currant cuttings are carried out by two types of cuttings - green and lignified. Propagation by lignified cuttings- the most affordable way, since you can get planting material at any time of the year. Currant cuttings can be planted for rooting in both autumn and spring. It is better to harvest cuttings at the beginning of winter, before severe frosts, which can destroy currant buds.

It is better to cut cuttings 18-20 cm long and 8-10 mm thick from the middle of one-year-old shoots growing from the root or from three-year-old branches. To preserve them before planting, you need to seal the lower and upper sections with melted garden pitch or paraffin - this way they will not lose moisture during storage. The cuttings are wrapped in slightly damp paper, then in polyethylene and buried in the snow or placed in the refrigerator. In early spring, cuttings are planted on training beds at an angle of 45º at a distance of 15 cm from each other with row spacing 20 cm wide. The lower end of the cutting, covered with paraffin, is cut off obliquely; when planting, the cutting is buried so that only two buds remain above the surface.

The beds are watered abundantly and mulched with sawdust, humus or fine peat. Arched supports up to half a meter high are installed above the bed and polyethylene is thrown over them, which is removed only when the first leaves appear on the cuttings. Moderate watering is necessary, but even short-term drying out of the soil should not be allowed. In summer, the garden bed needs to be weeded, watered and fed with mullein. By autumn, the cuttings produce seedlings 30 to 50 cm high with one or two shoots. The most developed of them can be transplanted to a permanent place this fall, while the weaker ones can be grown for another year.

Propagation of currants by green cuttings

Green cuttings can only be rooted in a greenhouse. True, there is another way, worthy of attention. Cuttings are taken from well-developed shoots, but the apex is not used for rooting. The length of the cutting with two green leaves should be 5-10 cm. The cuttings are placed in water, after two weeks they form roots 10-12 mm long, and the cuttings are transplanted into bags with soil, in which holes have been previously made to drain excess water. Water the cuttings every 2-3 days so that the soil in the bag has the consistency of sour cream. After 7-10 days, watering is reduced so that the soil reaches its normal density.

Keep the cuttings at home until May; by this time they should grow to 50-60 cm in height. Before planting, the bags are cut, and the cuttings are buried diagonally into the soil 15 cm deeper than they grew in the bag.

Reproduction of currants by layering

The simplest and most reliable way to propagate currants is by layering. This method allows you to obtain strong seedlings with a powerful root system in just one year. A healthy two-year-old currant branch is used as a layer, growing obliquely on the periphery of the bush so that it can be easily bent to the ground.

Dig a furrow 10-12 cm deep under it, bend the branch and lay it along the furrow so that the top of the branch 20-30 cm long protrudes from the furrow. Secure the middle part of the layer in the furrow with a metal bracket or wire hook. Fill the furrow with soil and water regularly throughout the summer. By autumn, it will become a full-fledged seedling with a well-developed root system and several branches, which can be dug up and transplanted to a permanent place.

Currant diseases

Currant varieties

Currant varieties differ not only in the color of the berries, but also in the time of their ripening. According to this criterion, they are divided into early, mid-early, middle, mid-late and late.

Early varieties include:

• Pearl– black variety with very large (up to 6 g) sweet berries;
• Venus– black currant with berries weighing up to 5.5 g, sweet and sour, tall bush;
• Black BMW– black sweet berries weighing up to 7 g, vigorous, compact bush;
• Jonker Van Tets– very large red berries with a sweet and sour taste;
• Ural white– white currant, large, sweet, spreading bush.

Mid-early varieties:

• Bashkir giant– black, very large berries with a sweet and sour taste, high resistance to diseases and pests;
• Belarusian sweet– very large sweet blackcurrants;
• Umka– white currant with large sweet berries, vigorous, erect bush.

Medium varieties:

• Sanyuta– black berries weighing up to 5.5 g, sweet and sour, vigorous, compact bush;
• Osipovskaya sweet– a variety of red currant with large sweet berries, a slightly spreading bush, vigorous;
• Imperial yellow– yellow currant, which is actually a high-yielding variety of white currant with small berries of a sweet and sour taste on medium-sized, medium-spreading bushes;
• Versailles white– a white currant variety with large and medium-sized fruits with a sweet and sour taste.

Mid-late varieties:

• Anniversary Kopanya– black currant with sweet and sour berries, vigorous, compact bush;
• Roland– red currant with a sweet and sour taste, a winter-hardy variety, resistant to fungi.

Late varieties:

• Lazy person– black currant with very large sweet berries, vigorous, compact bush;
• Valentinovka– very large berries for red currants with a sour taste, ideal for making jelly.

Currently, this type of plant is becoming increasingly popular among gardeners. exotic look like golden currants. It arouses interest for its decorative qualities - its flowers of different shades of yellow have a strong pleasant aroma, and the leaves acquire bright, variegated colors in the fall. The color of the berries is also varied: brown, orange, pink, red, blue-black, yellow - it depends on the variety. However, the taste of golden currant berries is much inferior to the taste of black, red and white.

Currant hybrids

Today, only two currant hybrids are widely known. Yoshta- a hybrid of protruding gooseberry, common gooseberry and black currant, bred in 1970. Breeders worked on it for about forty years. Yoshta grows on powerful spreading bushes about one and a half meters high and of the same diameter. The bush is thornless, berries weighing up to 5 g with dense skin, black with a purple tint, collected in a cluster of 3-5 pieces, have a pleasant nutmeg flavor. The hybrid is resistant to frost and some diseases and pests, lives 20-30 years, and is common in Western Europe.

Kroma- a Swedish hybrid of currants and gooseberries with large, very smooth black berries up to 2 cm in diameter, just like joshta berries, collected in clusters of 3-5 pieces. Krom does not have the aroma of currants; the taste of the berries resembles gooseberries and currants at the same time. In Swedish conditions, the berries ripen by mid-July.

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Currants (lat. Ribes) belong to the genus of the Gooseberry family, which has about 200 species of plants. Currant bushes first appeared in the 11th century in the monastery gardens of Rus', and only later they learned about it in Europe, where it gained enormous popularity. In our country, currants are one of the most beloved and widespread berries, which are grown by summer residents and gardeners on their plots. We especially love black currants, which are the healthiest and tastiest berries of all other types of currants. It is consumed both fresh and in compotes, jellies, and for future use: it is frozen and made into jam, and also used to make wine, liqueurs, and aromatic liqueurs. In addition to black currants, red and white currants, rich in vitamins and microelements, are no less popular. Except useful properties berries, the aromatic leaves of currants, which are used for preservation and for brewing tea, are also healing. Currant leaves are rich in vitamin C and are used to prevent colds.

Currant is a berry bush from the gooseberry family, of medium height (20-40 cm) with characteristic leaves. Currants belong to fast-growing shrubs and begin to bear fruit a year after planting.

Its lifespan is 20 years for red currants and 15 years for black currants, however, the shrub is able to multiply quickly.

The main types of currants are black and red, differing in the color of the berries and the characteristic odor inherent in black currants, due to the content of essential oils in it. However, there are also other varieties: yellow currant, bred on the American continent, white currant and many crossed species. Breeders have bred up to 700 species different varieties berries characterized by resistance to pests and diseases, resistance to powdery mildew, spotting, resistance to spring frosts and increased productivity , which allows you to breed it in different regions

on the territory of the Russian Federation.

1. Currants have a lot of useful qualities, which makes it possible to use the berry itself, its leaves, and twigs for:
2. Improves the elasticity of the vascular system.
3. Decrease in blood sugar concentration.
4. Treatment of dermatitis and eye diseases. Therapy of atherosclerosis, reduction blood pressure
5. ; increasing the strength of the capillaries of the circulatory system.
6. Treatment of throat and cough diseases.
7. Therapy of colds and infectious diseases.

Treatment of inflammation in the urinary canal area and as a diuretic.

How to properly plant currants in open ground In general, the shrub is quite unpretentious to growing conditions, however, to obtain high yield

The shrub is sensitive to the water-air growth regime, since the length of its roots, up to 50 cm, is located in the upper layer of soil and cannot consume moisture from the deeper layers of the soil. This must be taken into account when choosing a landing site, since it is too wet soil

is a dangerous factor, and too dry requires frequent watering.

1. Site selection and soil preparation

The best conditions for growing currants are considered to be a well-lit area of ​​soil, representing a lowland, slope or hill with an average degree of moisture. The degree of illumination is determined by how long during the day the currant is exposed to direct sunlight. Shrub lighting duration sun rays

should be at least half a day for blackcurrants; for red - at least 2/3 of the day.

The measure of site moisture is assessed by the level of groundwater in a nearby well, which should be no higher than 0.5-1 m. The requirements for soil acidity are also clearly regulated; soils of neutral and slightly acidic reactions are selected for it. It is best to place currants in a place of some elevation of the relief, containing up to 0.5 m of fertile layer with protection from both the direct influence of wind currents and from stagnant air.

2. Choosing the landing time The shrub can be planted in the spring from the onset of warm weather until the buds open using cuttings or grown layering and in the fall in September-October. The autumn planting method is considered the best, since its use creates Better conditions

the survival rate of the plant and its emergence into the phase of rapid development at the beginning of spring.

3. Soil treatment and preparation It is better to plant shrubs at a distance of 1 m from neighboring bushes and at a distance of 1.5-2 m and 3-4 m from other shrubs and fruit trees. Required amount

shrubs for planting are determined from the condition that with normal care, currants yield from 2 to 3 kg per bush.

4. Soil for currants and fertilizer

As planting material, it is better to choose seedlings 15-20 cm long with a well-branched root system and no signs of pests and diseases. The dimensions of the planting hole are 40*40*40 cm; it is better to dig the hole either a few weeks before planting or in the fall of the previous year to create the necessary soil settlement.

1. The first consists of earth dug out of a hole, mixed with peat, compost or fertilizers with the addition of small doses of mineral additives and has high biological value; serves to feed the roots, located below them in level.
2. The second also consists of fertile soil removed from the pit without fertilizers.

5. The process of planting in open ground

Holding the bush with one hand, place it above the first layer of soil, so that the roots feel free. Next, sprinkle with a second layer of soil, taking into account that the bush should protrude above the surface. The planted bush is watered abundantly, even if planting is done on a rainy day.

A tree trunk circle with a diameter of 40-50 cm is formed around the planted bush, a layer of mulch, peat or sawdust is added without affecting the planting itself.

After planting, the currant bush is pruned to a level of 7 cm above the ground. This measure is necessary to bring the above-ground part of the plant into line with the root system.

Currant care

1. Watering

The shrub is characterized by a fairly high moisture consumption, for which it competes, spending the energy necessary to form a crop. For adult bushes, maximum moisture consumption occurs during shoot growth, during the formation of berries (June) and after harvesting to store moisture for the formation of the next harvest (September).

It is important to provide a sufficient amount of moisture during this period, since otherwise the berries will be small and unripe berries will shed.

To reduce the impact of periods of drought on currants, it is necessary to maintain them by watering them with 1.5-2 buckets of water per bush.

It is also necessary to take measures to retain moisture in the soil, for which a layer of mulch, up to 10 cm thick, consisting of fallen leaves, weeded weeds, and finely chopped thin twigs, is applied around the circumference under the bush.

2. Feeding When correct landing shrubs, fertilizing in the form of fertilizers is not required for several years. Further nutrition is carried out by adding 4-5 kg ​​of fertilizer or peat and 40 g mineral fertilizers complex composition

, superphosphate (100-150 g) and calcium chloride (30-40 g) under the bush in early spring or autumn before loosening.

In the absence of plant nutrition, the berries become small over time and contain fewer nutrients.

The best time for pruning shrubs is considered to be late autumn, after leaf fall, when diseased and damaged shoots are clearly visible. Pruning for currant bushes begins with removing old and damaged sprouts at ground level and covering them with a special decoction.

The next stage of pruning is the removal of young, poorly developed or disease-damaged branches. Next, the bush is thinned out by removing 15 to 30% of the shoots of various ages to direct moisture and nutrients not to the growth of young branches, but to the formation of a crop on mature cuttings. Ideally, after pruning, the bush should have 12-15 healthy shoots of various ages.

When pruning, it is necessary to take into account that excessive spreading of the bush is inconvenient and causes contamination of the berries during bad weather. To give the planting a well-groomed and cultural species

, supports are made, trellises and stretched twine are used. However, the “selected” bush should not be overly tight to avoid damage to the branches and disruption of sap flow.

4. Transplant

Transplantation is carried out in cases where it is necessary to rejuvenate currants, there is a lack of necessary nutrients for the growth and development of the plantation at the site of previous growth, or the need to plant rooted young shoots, layering or cuttings. The rules for replanting in terms of time, soil selection, watering and fertilizing do not differ from regular planting.

1. 5. Diseases and pests American powdery mildew, which poses a danger to young leaves and shoots of black currants, manifests itself in the appearance of white coatings on their surface; the leaves weaken, darken and become deformed. Treatment is carried out by removing and burning the affected leaves and shoots and
2. autumn processing Topaz. Anthracosis, septoriasis, are two types of disease caused by the action of a fungus, resulting in the formation of dark and dark spots on the surface of the leaves.
3. brown colors , later turning into a brown tint. flowers, the appearance of doubleness and the death of the bush.
4. The affected bush must be dug up and burned.
5. The bud mite manifests itself in severe swelling of the buds, which, together with adjacent branches, are removed and burned before the bush enters the budding stage.
6. The remaining bush before and immediately after flowering is sprayed with Actellik; if there is no effect, the bush must be dug up and burned.
7. Currant glass damages currant branches, which is externally manifested in their lethargy, drying out and increased fragility. Damage to a currant by glass can be diagnosed by examining a cross section of a branch. In case of damage, there are quite wide passages-voids of a dark color. After the disease is detected, all affected shoots are removed and burned; after flowering, the bush is treated with Actellik.

Gooseberry shoot aphids manifest themselves in the fact that aphid larvae born during the period of swelling of the buds attack young shoots and leaves, sucking the juices out of them.

Damage by aphids leads to changes in the shape of leaves, increasing the risk of damage during wintering by cold. To treat the disease, the shrub is treated with Actellik during bud break. Red-headed aphids manifest themselves in the appearance of swollen leaves on the affected areas. The fight against aphids consists of treating currants with Actellik before the formation of buds, after flowering and in August-September. Seasonal care and planting

Caring for shrubs includes periodically loosening the root area throughout the season. Insecticides and weeding are used to control weeds

manually

Using cuttings, which are prepared as follows. A bush shoot with a thickness of more than 7 mm and a length of 20 cm, containing at least 4-6 buds on its body, is cut off on both sides. The lower cut is made at an angle of 45°, the upper one should have a right angle, then the cutting is placed in a container with water overnight.

Then the cuttings are planted in the soil, maintaining a distance of 10-15 cm between them, so that at least 3-4 buds remain above the ground surface.

The soil around the planted cuttings is watered, compacted and mulched with peat or compost to a depth of 4-5 cm. This method of propagating shrubs is well suited for the formation of hedges. Using horizontal layering performed in the spring, during the period of soil ripeness. The soil near the planting should be loose and provided with fertilizers.

Young, healthy currant branches are buried in previously prepared furrows 5-7 cm deep.

The young vertical shoots that appear after a while, 6-8 cm high from the ground level, are loosened and hilled with a mixture of earth and humus, every 2-3 weeks. In the fall, the rooted cuttings are transplanted, carefully separated from the planting and replanted.

1. Answers to frequently asked questions When placing currants in place with a vegetable predecessor, flower plants
2. , the planting will be provided with nutrients for a sufficiently long time and will bear fruit better, since it will be located on undepleted soils.
3. It is not recommended to plant shrubs in the place where gooseberries or currants were previously grown, since soils can become tired of monoculture within a few years and accumulate toxins.
4. For more active pollination of currants by insects, it is recommended to spray during the flowering period with a solution of 1 liter of water with 1 tbsp. l honey.