Begonia on the balcony planting and care. Ampelous begonia on the balcony is the key to a passionate summer. Ampelous begonia in apartment design

Begonias are one of the most beautiful flowers on balconies and terraces. We admire the variety of their shapes and colors. Some people love begonia for its beautiful and decorative greenery, others love it for its elegant flowers. Begonias are wonderful plants for the balcony. Take a little time and take a closer look at the “queen” of balconies and terraces.
We will provide some information about begonia in our article.
Begonia is a bulbous plant and is a hybrid of several wild varieties native to South America. Numerous varieties of begonias form single flowers or ovaries of several pieces, and in size begonia flowers They can be large or small, full or only in the form of one petal. Begonia has a wide variety of colors - golden, orange, copper, white and shades from pink to red. Begonias on the balcony usually bloom from July to October, but with proper care of its tubers, its flowering can begin from the end of May. Begonias for the balcony have characteristic large heart-shaped leaves, as a rule, they are asymmetrical with jagged edges.

Groups of plants by height

Tall, reaching a height of about 60 cm, with characteristic thick and stiff stems and very large flowers;
- medium height - about 30-40 cm, with large flowers;
- low and miniature - usually reach a height of 25 cm with a large number of small flowers;
- hanging varieties of begonias, with a large number of hanging stems with small flowers.

Growing begonias on the balcony and caring for them

Tuberous begonias are ideal plants for growing in balcony boxes, containers and flower pots. The big advantage of this plant is that begonia grows well in shady or partial shade areas. Begonia is perfect for northern, eastern and western balconies and terraces.
Begonia flowers are very demanding of soil; they grow best in fertile, slightly acidic and breathable soil. The soil for begonias should be well-drained, but at the same time constantly moist.
The plant requires intensive watering (in hot weather in the morning and evening) and regular fertilization. In garden centers you can always buy fertilizers for balcony plants, such as begonia.
Begonias are very sensitive to low temperatures and can freeze very easily, so they should be placed on the balcony at the end of May and hidden during return frosts. Begonia tubers are planted in pots at the end of February or March.
The tubers are placed in the soil with the bud (looks like a tubercle) up, to a depth of about 1-2 cm. It is better to cover the pot with glass and start watering, making sure that the soil is constantly moist. After 2-3 weeks, the first begonia leaves appear. At the end of May, the seedlings are transplanted along with the roots into a balcony box or directly into the ground.
It should be remembered that during the growing season, begonias growing on the balcony can be affected by powdery mildew, thrips, aphids, snails and gray mold.

Wintering begonia tubers

In the autumn, shortly before the first frost, carefully, so as not to damage the bulbs, dig up the begonia plants and cut off the stem at a height of about 2-3 centimeters (the tubers can be cut off even after the leaves have been destroyed by frost, the main thing is to avoid damage to the tubers by frost). Begonia tubers should be carefully cleaned and allowed to dry. It is better to store begonia in a dry and dark room at a temperature of approximately 5 - 10 ° C, preferably in wooden boxes sprinkled with dry peat or sawdust.

Begonia propagation

At the beginning of spring (late February, March), to propagate begonias, we separate the tubers. Begonia tubers are divided so that each part has at least one well-formed bud. Sprinkle the cutting area of ​​the tubers with charcoal and leave in the air.
The next step is to plant the prepared begonia tubers in pots.
We hope this short article will help you grow begonia on your balcony. Begonia is one of the most beautiful plants on balconies and certainly deserves more attention.

Tuberous begonia (Begonia tuberhybrida) is a representative of the extensive Begoniaceae family. The first begonias were discovered in the Antilles in 1687. Breeders were so impressed by the beauty of this plant that they began to actively create more and more new hybrids. In pursuit of perfection, tuberous begonia appeared.

The starting point for the selection of a complex hybrid is considered to be the middle of the 19th century. It was then that breeders crossed two species of wild begonias native to Bolivia and got a new plant with a tuber. The hybrid began to be actively crossed with begonias from different regions, growing interesting varieties. Tuberous begonia combines the best features of the family - lush, long-lasting flowering and unpretentiousness to living conditions.

5 species features

Breeders love to experiment with this species, so new hybrid varieties appear regularly. They differ from each other, but there are five species characteristics by which you can “identify” a tuberous begonia.

1. Rhizome. A thick rhizome-tuber is the “calling card” of tuberous begonias. Such a rhizome was formed from the stem as a result of selection. The size of the underground tuber is approximately 5-6 cm.
2. Stem. You can recognize a tuberous begonia by its fleshy, juicy stem. It is translucent, stretches to an average of 25 cm, but there are record-breaking garden bushes - 80 cm in height.
3. Leaves. The plant has large asymmetrical, heart-shaped leaves. A distinctive feature is another location. The leaves can be dark or light green. There are varieties with glossy and fleecy leaf blades.
4. Flowers. Simple, terry, semi-double - it all depends on the variety. The colors of the flowers are different: all shades of red, milky white, pinkish, orange, bright yellow. Flowers can be single-colored or with a border, small or large, bloom separately or collected in inflorescences.
5. Seeds. The plant has very small seeds. They can be obtained by waiting for the fruit, which is a box 1 cm in size. Despite the small size of the fruit, it can contain up to a thousand seeds.

Tuberous begonia can be grown with equal success in the garden, in a box on the balcony, or on the windowsill. And all thanks to the fact that she knows how to adapt to any conditions. The plant owes this ability to the tuber, in which the substances necessary to support “life activity” accumulate. This helps the flower to withstand changing conditions.

Tuberous begonia blooms at the end of spring and goes into “rest” with the first frost. At home, you can extend the flowering period to admire the beauty in winter. But the perennial needs a rest period of at least two months. If you provide the plant with conditions for wintering, with the onset of warmth it will again delight you with lush flowering.

Tuberous begonia has flowers of different sexes. “Male” - large, lush, terry. They bloom first. “Female” ones are much more modest: they consist of a maximum of five non-double petals, much smaller in size.

Main varieties

Through the efforts of breeders, many varieties of tuberous begonia have been developed. Their types are usually divided into four groups according to their color characteristics:

• ampelous;
• small-flowered;
• medium-flowered;
• grandiflora.

The “favorites” of flower growers are large-flowered varieties. They are valued for their double flowers, the beauty of which is difficult to resist - you immediately want to get such a plant for yourself. The shape resembles a peony or camellia. The petals surprise with their diversity: you can find specimens with collected, cut, corrugated, fringed.

Large-flowered varieties are usually used in indoor floriculture: a plant with a lush “cap” of flowers can enliven the interior and create a festive atmosphere. Ampelous begonia is ideal for landscaping loggias and balconies. Its main difference is its long shoots. They form a bush with a lush leaf cover and delicate small flowers located on barely noticeable peduncles. But they love this variety not only for its decorative effect. Maintenance requires no effort at all. A delicate-looking plant is not afraid of heat, drying out soil, or drafts. Specimens bloom early (in mid-spring), bloom profusely, and go into dormancy later than other “relatives.”

If possible, flower growers advise growing tuberous representatives of the Begonieceae this way: one season - on the windowsill, the second - in the flowerbed (or at least on the loggia). It is believed that alternate cultivation makes the crop resistant to any conditions and increases the flowering period.

Tuberous begonia usually reaches flower growers in the form of a tuber. The more interesting it is to grow a flower. Tubers are sold in flower shops. You need to know the rules for choosing planting material and then you will be able to grow a lush-flowering beauty without any problems. Follow these four guidelines when purchasing.

1. Optimal time to buy. Tubers should be purchased when they are dormant. The end of January - beginning of March is the best time.
2. Size. When choosing planting material, size matters. The diameter of the tuber must be at least 3 cm. If the tubers are small, it means that the plant did not receive enough nutrients.
3. Appearance. Don't take the first tuber you come across. Before purchasing, you need to evaluate the appearance of the planting material. The tubers should be dense. Discard overdried specimens immediately. The cover of healthy specimens is dark brown, without spots. It is important that there is no damage.
4. Presence of kidneys. If you want to purchase a tuber at the turn of the seasons (late February - early March), pay attention to the presence of buds. Their presence is evidence of proper storage of planting material. The rules are not broken - the plant wakes up at the appointed time. Varieties that bloom pink or red have buds of the same color. Do not take tubers with overgrown shoots: growing outside the soil increases the likelihood that the “pet” will be weak.

If you have purchased large-sized planting material, you can grow several plants. To do this, the tubers are divided into parts. The main rule of division is at least three buds on each part.

Planting tubers

Tuber germination is a long process. First, the root system grows, then sprouts appear. Be prepared that you will see green shoots in the flowerpot no earlier than four weeks after planting the tuber (sometimes later). It is better to plant in early March, then by the end of spring there will be a flowering plant on the windowsill. The later the planting is done, the less time the begonia will be happy: from November it begins its dormant time, which can only be delayed by additional measures (increasing the temperature, highlighting the plant). Planting a tuber in a flowerpot has nuances that the gardener needs to know about.

• Pot. A medium pot will suit begonias - not too wide, not too deep. Guide it this way: the distance from the top of the tuber to the edge of the flowerpot should be at least 3 cm.
• Drainage. A third of the pot should be drainage. This will protect the root system from rotting. Expanded clay and small stones are used as drainage.
• Priming. It is better to use a purchased substrate or plant it in peat, and when the sprouts stretch 5 cm, transplant them into permanent soil. The plant needs a loose soil mixture. If you want to prepare the substrate yourself, then mix sand, leaf, humus and peat soil in equal quantities.
• Landing. It is important to plant the tuber correctly: the growing points should be at the top. Focus on the shape of the sides: immerse the rounded side into the substrate, the concave (flattened) side should “look” up. Do not fill the soil completely: the buds must “breathe”. When you succeed in rooting, add substrate, but not before sprouts begin to appear.
• Watering. Until the sprouts “hatch”, you need to pay special attention to watering the planted tubers. Look for the “golden mean”: it is important not to overdry or overfill. Sprouting tubers have small roots, they can easily dry out and also rot easily.
• Removing sprouts. When the tuber sprouts, excess sprouts need to be removed. If the diameter of the tuber did not exceed 5 cm, you got a young plant. It is enough to leave two or three sprouts. If you ignore the rule, the young begonia may not be able to cope with such a heavy load.

On the forums, some gardeners advise soaking the tuber in warm water for two hours before planting, supposedly this stimulates the kidneys. However, there is a second point of view: soaking can cause rotting. If you purchased a healthy tuber, it will germinate without additional manipulation.

Ideal microclimate

If you bought not a tuber at a flower shop, but a “ready-made” plant, then you must first quarantine it. The flower is shaded, not watered or fed for the first week. Be sure to check for insects. When the quarantine is over (it is advisable to withstand at least two weeks), you can “turn on” the usual care regimen. If begonia appears in the house in the form of a tuber, then it must first be germinated. While you are waiting for escapes, study specialized forums.

This species of the Begoniaceae family is completely unpretentious. It’s easy to create a suitable microclimate for a flower, and if you can immediately optimize watering, then there won’t be any problems at all. Remember the rule of the “golden mean”: take care, but don’t overdo it.

If you decide to add other flowers to the begonia on the windowsill, remember that it is against close proximity.

Light or shadow

Begonia loves bright light. Light is necessary for growth and bud formation. But if the plant is exposed to direct sunlight for a long time, burns may occur. Large-flowered varieties especially suffer from direct sun.

If you plan to plant begonia in open soil in the summer, find a place in the area with light partial shade. But if the plant spends most of the day in dense shade, do not expect lush flowering.

Temperature

Begonia does not tolerate heat and cold well. On the street it can still adapt to weather conditions, but in an apartment the plant will begin to wither due to heat or cold. The optimal temperature for begonia is 18-23°C. During the wintering period, it is important that the temperature does not fall below 15°C.

Watering

Watering should be done moderately. Overwatering can cause its delicate roots to rot. Begonia will also not withstand prolonged drought. The optimal watering regime is developed only by trial and error. You need to focus on the condition of the soil: it should dry out by about 1 cm. In hot weather, watering is usually carried out three times a week. When begonia goes into a dormant state, watering is reduced to a minimum. If the tubers are left in the pot over the winter, then they are practically not watered (once or twice during the entire period, depending on the wintering temperature). You cannot water the plant with cold water - only warm and pre-settled water.

Hydration

Moist air is a necessary condition for active growth and flowering of tuberous begonia. However, flower growers often make the main mistake: they spray the flower to provide it with enough moisture. Such manipulation causes harm to the plant: spots may appear on the leaves, the stem may rot, and the inflorescences may fall off. To ensure optimal humidity, you need to spray the air around the flowerpot and place a container of water next to the flower.

Top dressing

During the flowering period, fertilizing is required. To do this, it is recommended to use a complex fertilizer specially designed for flowering indoor plants. They need to “feed” twice a month: then the flowering will be intense and long-lasting. However, if the planting was early, then you can feed it before flowering. Nitrogen mixtures are used for this: they stimulate growth.

It is important not to overdo it with nitrogen fertilizing. A large amount of nitrogen causes an increase in leaf mass, but flowering is inhibited. Tuberous begonias are decorative flowering plants; all the beauty of the “pet” lies in the inflorescences.

Transfer

The plant needs to be replanted when it becomes crowded in the pot. When replanting, it is important to inspect the root system of the begonia: if there are rotten areas, they are removed. Rot can damage part of the tuber. In this case, you need to cut out the damaged area with a sharp knife and sprinkle the wound with crushed activated carbon. It is recommended to disinfect the root system of begonias before planting in a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

Tuberous begonia can be planted in the front garden in the summer. If the plant remains indoors rather than moving outside, try not to change its position in relation to the sun. Moving from window sill to window sill or turning the pot can cause the buds to drop. For lush flowering, stability is needed.

Dormant period and wintering features

Around November, tuberous begonia begins a dormant period. Why "approximately"? Because everything depends on the temperature in the house. You can extend the flowering period, you can shorten it, but begonias still need to rest. When the plant is preparing for winter, its leaves dry out and fall off along with the faded inflorescences. The shoots also begin to die off, they need to be cut off at a distance of about 1 cm from the tuber.

For home copies

You can store the tuber without removing it from the pot or removing it from the ground. At home, it is still more convenient when the tuber overwinters in a pot: there is no need to carry out unnecessary manipulations. In spring, the tuber needs to be replanted and germinated. There are three rules for wintering, following which you will be able to get a gorgeous plant again in the spring.

1. Dry air and low temperature. Place the pot with begonia in a dry place. The temperature should not exceed 18°C, but also not fall below 12°C: in the first case, the begonia will not go to rest, in the second, it will freeze.
2. Minimal watering. Reduce the intensity and amount of watering. Some varieties are even recommended to be watered only twice during the entire three-month wintering period.
3. Refusal of fertilizing. The plant cannot be fed during hibernation.

For garden specimens

If the begonia spent its “summer vacation” in the fresh air, then it is cut off and then the tubers are dug up. They can be stored on the refrigerator door. The tubers are wrapped in fibrous peat, sphagnum, and cotton fabric. In the spring, when the growing points begin to hatch, the tubers are planted in pots, and when they sprout, they can be transplanted into open soil or simply into a larger flowerpot.

If you don’t give begonias a “break” in the winter, then in the spring it will be a frail plant. In this case, there is no need to talk about a lush dome of flowers.

3 methods of reproduction

Three methods are used for propagation: cuttings, seed method and division of tubers. There are tips to propagate the plant by leaf. However, such information is the result of confusion. The leaf blade is indeed used to produce new begonia sprouts, but only if we are talking about root varieties and not tuberous ones.

By dividing the tuber

Peculiarities. The easiest way to reproduce. Flower growers also consider it the most effective. You can divide a tuber only when three active buds are visible on it. It will not be possible to grow a new plant from a part without buds.

Step-by-step instruction

1. Using a sharp knife, separate the tuber into pieces.
2. Treat the cuts with crushed charcoal (can be replaced with activated one).
3. Plant the tubers in a flowerpot, following the planting rules, and wait for sprouts to appear.

By cuttings

Peculiarities. You need to be careful about watering: overwatering leads to rotting of the underdeveloped root system and the developing tuber. It takes up to three weeks for the cuttings to root. The new plant is a “copy” of the mother plant.

Step-by-step instruction

1. Separate a small cutting (about 10 cm) from the mother plant.
2. Plant the sprout in moist peat.
3. When the cutting takes root, you can transplant it into a larger pot. At this stage, it is recommended to pinch: then side shoots will form and the result will be a lush bush.

Cuttings are best done in May. At this time, the shoots of the mother plant are quite strong, but still young. That is, the “golden mean” is important here too.

Seeds

Peculiarities. The method is labor-intensive and time-consuming. If begonia grows on a windowsill, then difficulties will arise in obtaining seed. First, the inflorescences need to be artificially pollinated (using a brush), then wait for the fruits to appear. There may be problems with harvesting: the seeds are very small.

Step-by-step instruction

1. Prepare a container with soil mixture. It's better to take a special one from the store.
2. Mix the seeds with sand. This will simplify the sowing process.
3. Scatter the seeds along with sand over the surface of the soil. Moisten the seed using a spray bottle.
4. Cover the container with glass or film. This is a “greenhouse”.
5. When sprouts appear, remove the greenhouse. Let the sprouts get stronger and dive.

Germinating seeds is a long process. However, impatient gardeners can speed it up. To do this, you need to treat the seed with a root formation stimulator. You can get a “helper” at any flower shop.

Reasons for loss of attractiveness

When growing tuberous begonias, flower growers often encounter the fact that the plant loses its attractive appearance and refuses to bloom. Most problems are due to improper care. It is important to understand in time what is wrong, then the plant will be able to be revived quickly: it will only be enough to correct the errors in care. But those parts of the plant that have lost their presentable appearance will have to be removed. Common problems and their causes are analyzed in the table.

Table - Problems when growing tuberous begonias

If the plant is weakened after care errors, it can be “fed” with nutrients. However, first you need to eliminate those same errors and make sure that the problem does not lie in an excess of fertilizing.

Diseases

Tuberous begonia does not suffer from diseases so often. The most common ailments are gray rot and powdery mildew. Both diseases appear as a result of waterlogging of the soil.

The presence of rot can be determined by a gray coating on the leaves and a slimy coating on the buds. Fight the fungus by spraying with a soap solution with the addition of 2 g of copper sulfate. Powdery mildew appears as light gray spots covering the leaves. The affected areas should be wiped with soapy water and the watering should be adjusted at the same time.

Begonia can be affected by a disease that cannot be treated - bacterial spot. You need to look for manifestations on the underside of the leaf: watery “glassy” spots appear there, which darken over time. Since the disease is incurable, the diseased begonia is destroyed, the pots are thrown away or thoroughly disinfected.

Pests

Various pests love to settle on tuberous begonias. The plant must be regularly inspected for the presence of “uninvited guests”. The table will tell you which insects can invade the plant, what this can lead to and how to solve the problem.

Table - Pests of tuberous begonias

There are traditional methods of combating insects that have taken a fancy to indoor plants. For example, it is recommended to fight with tincture of garlic (10 g per 1 l), and with aphids - tincture of shag (20 g per 1 l). Traditional recipes can be used as an auxiliary or preventive method, but nothing more effective than store-bought drugs has yet been invented.

What to do if you have created ideal conditions for the flower, optimized care, there are no insects, but you still haven’t seen a riot of colors? Perhaps the begonia does not bloom because you got an “old” plant that has simply exhausted its resource. “Five-year-olds” are considered old, but sometimes even “three-year-olds” don’t have the strength to bloom. If you understand that this is the reason, “rejuvenate” the tuber by division, grow a new plant from a cutting. And soon the long-awaited dome of flowers will appear on your windowsill.

Ampelous begonia - planting and care
How beautiful the porches of houses look, decorated with pots with plants! Among the plants that will delight you with their flowering from the beginning of summer until the autumn frosts, hanging begonia is very popular. Many novice gardeners do not risk buying begonia seeds and growing begonia themselves, preferring to buy ready-made plants in pots. Thanks to the advice of experienced gardeners collected in this article, you will learn how you can start growing hanging begonia yourself. How to plant ampelous begonia?
First, we buy seeds, which are usually sold granulated to make planting easier. We prepare a suitable container: it can be a small box or a peat tablet. It is better to sow begonia seeds in February or early spring. Then we take an earthen mixture rich in humus and moisten it from a spray bottle. Planting the seeds of ampelous begonia should be done on the surface of the soil, without covering it with soil, but only moistening it and covering it with glass or plastic film. If you grow ampelous begonia from seeds in a peat tablet, you can place it under a glass.

The container with the seeds should be placed on a windowsill or under a lamp so that light falls on the plant. There is no need to remove the greenhouse, just occasionally ventilate the plant, accustoming it to fresh air. Begonia begins to germinate no earlier than after 14 days. To prevent the seeds from dying, you need to monitor their growth: after a few days, the seeds shed their shell and open the cotyledon leaves. The plant should not be allowed to dry out; the seeds should be watered as the soil dries, or through a tray.
About a month after planting, after strong leaves have appeared, the begonia needs to be transplanted into pots. How to care for ampelous begonia?
According to experienced flower growers, growing ampelous begonia is not difficult, but still, in order to prevent them from getting sick and delight you with lush flowers, you should follow a few simple rules.
To grow both home hanging begonia and garden varieties, you need fertile soil that has a slightly acidic reaction. In summer, the flower requires abundant watering, while in winter it needs to be watered as the soil dries out.

For abundant flowering and growth, hanging begonias need to be fed. In early spring, fertilizers with a high nitrogen content can be added to the soil, and during the flowering period, begonia should be fed with mineral fertilizers for flowering plants. In summer, you can feed the flower with organic fertilizers, but no more than 2-3 times per season, given the fact that only moist soil needs to be fertilized.
Ampelous begonia tolerates temperature changes well, but the optimal growing conditions are considered to be +18 – +20°C. Begonia, which is grown at home, loves fresh air and ventilation.
Begonias prefer diffused sunlight or partial shade. If a flower is grown in insufficient light, the shoots will stretch and the flower may stop blooming. For begonias, the ideal place to grow would be a glassed-in balcony or veranda: there is enough light, there are no gusts of wind and ventilation can be easily provided.
When caring for ampelous begonia, do not forget to remove faded flowers and dried leaves. In the spring, you can give the flower a warm shower, but after that you can’t put the begonia in the sun.
Also, it is necessary to ensure that the plant does not get sick or is not attacked by pests. The most common diseases are caused by gray mold or powdery mildew. Reproduction of ampelous begonia
The best way to propagate begonia is cuttings, which can be done throughout the year, but it is better in the spring. From an overwintered plant, cuttings about 10 cm long should be cut and placed in water. After 10 days, when the roots of the cuttings sprout, the plant is transplanted into light, fertile soil and covered with a bag. Up to 5 cuttings can be planted in one pot with a diameter of 10 cm to ensure that the begonia is lush and beautiful. Many novice gardeners are interested in the question of whether it is necessary to pinch hanging begonia. If you want the begonia to bloom especially luxuriantly, you can pinch the tops of the shoots. But then the begonia will begin to bloom 2-3 weeks later.
As you can see, planting and caring for hanging begonia is quite a simple matter, but the result will exceed all your expectations.

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In our city apartments, it is the balcony that often becomes the oasis where constant summer reigns - plants turn green and flowers bloom.

Let's figure it out how to choose the right flowers for the balcony or loggias.

What kind of care do they require? How to protect them from diseases and pests?

In the southern regions of Russia, you can maintain a constant assortment of perennials on balconies, but in the middle and northern regions it is better to prefer annuals. However, a glazed and heated balcony will significantly increase your possibilities in choosing plants.

Flowers on a sunny balcony

If the balcony faces the south, sunny side, the overwhelming most balcony plants will bloom well and for a long time, with the exception of fuchsia and begonia: excessive sun suppresses them, they wither and sometimes do not bloom at all.

special “greed” for sun and warmth purslane, kobea, morning glory, dorotheanthus and dimorphotheca are exhibited. On cloudy days, the grandiflora purslane will not open its flowers, and in cool summers it blooms sparingly even on a southern balcony.

Daisies, asters, mignonette, dahlias, godetia, gatsania, heliotrope, balsam, lobelia, verbena, violas, sweet peas, morning glory, ampelous pelargonium, nasturtium - an excellent set for a sunny balcony.

African agapanthus and Indian canna feel great in tubs or large pots.

Place Tobacco Grandiflora, Elegant Zinnia and Drummond Phlox in one container and you have a lovely mini flower garden.

To have a balcony pleased with the flowering as early as possible, already in early May you should plant daisies, violas and ever-flowering begonia.

And so that flowering continued until the end of October, use asters, kobea, petunia, gatsania, lantana, tuberous begonia and sedum.

Flowers on a shaded balcony

Begonias, lobelias, fuchsias, mignonettes, and violas will bloom well in partial shade.

Marigolds, pelargoniums, nasturtiums and petunias will tolerate the lack of light. Calceolaria and ageratum are quite comfortable in the penumbra.

If the balcony is heavily shaded, limit yourself to tuberous begonia, daisies, violas, and nasturtium can decorate the balcony until frost, if not with abundant flowering, then with beautiful rounded leaves.

On high floors, where it is windy and there are constant drafts, it is better to use daisies, low-growing marigolds, ageratum, gatsania, sedum and ever-flowering begonia.

For vertical gardening inside balconies and loggias, ampelous varieties of lobelia, petunia, winged thunbergia, fuchsia, pelargonium and tuberous begonia are suitable.

Interesting balcony flowers and caring for them

And in conclusion, a few words about plants, sometimes undeservedly unclaimed in balcony floriculture.

Begonia

Queen of balconies.

The color range ranges from pure white to pink, yellow, salmon, bright red and crimson. Flowers are simple, semi-double and double on one plant.

Varieties with a height of 15 to 30 cm are suitable. Flowering from late May until October frosts. For the winter, the tubers are put into a cool room and stored until March in sand or peat chips at plus 8-12°C.

It is distinguished by large bell-shaped flowers of an exotic shape on long stalks, first colored green and later bluish-violet. There is a variety with white flowers.

This fast-growing summer plant, thanks to its tenacious and strong tendrils on its pinnate leaves, rises up several meters even on plastered walls, although it is more reliable to strengthen it on a thin wire mesh or a support on a balcony box.

Blooms from June to October. It is afraid of cold weather, so it is planted after the end of spring frosts. Kobeya quickly plants large areas, although from a distance it looks much more modest than calceolaria or salvia.

Propagated by seeds, which are sown in March. Seedlings are planted at a distance of 30-50 cm from each other.

Attracts with its luxurious “mosaic” leaves and is easily propagated by cuttings.

Small-leaved balcony forms form a dense bush 20-40 cm high. The brightness of coleus leaves and its showiness in the near or distant plans outshine the brightly colored balcony flowers. Plants are planted in May at a distance of 20-30 cm. In August, coleus are cut and left to overwinter in a bright room. Reproduction by seeds is possible in February.

It blooms profusely and tirelessly with yellow flowers resembling bright balls. Plant height 30 cm.

It is enough to buy one plant to further provide a spectacular contrasting bright yellow tone for red pelargonium, salvia, petunia, blue and purple violas, blue ageratum and blue-violet heliotrope.

Propagates well in mid-summer by cuttings in a cool, bright room. They overwinter, like pelargoniums, in a room or frost-free room, and in mid-May they are planted on the balcony.

(Erika carnea), sometimes incorrectly called "heather", reaches 15-30 cm in height, has needle-shaped leaves and is recommended for southern regions and insulated balconies and loggias.

Various varieties bloom from January to March with white, pink and red flowers abundantly covering the tops of the shoots. For autumn flowering, the species Erika gracilis is recommended, blooming from September to November.

Early-flowering Erica is grown on calcareous soil, and late-flowering Erica is grown on a slightly acidic substrate, preferably on a mixture of marsh soil and peat.

Eriks overwinter in the middle zone in the basement, in frost-free loggias, and even in open ground under spruce branches and snow; in the southern regions - in open ground.

Notable for its radiant, shiny, orange-red (to bronze) flowers 7-8 cm in diameter with a dark spot at the base of the petals and a white eye.

Flowering from June to October. Unpretentious, resistant to winds. Height 20-40 cm. Seeds are sown in the room in March, seedlings are planted on the balcony in May. Close-up decoration.

Mini-garden for the balcony

Despite the very limited area, it is advisable to find a place on the balcony for a fragrant mini-garden, for which it is enough to plant two or three plants of mignonette, verbena, tobacco or heliotrope with a distinct aroma of vanilla.

It is useful to have a corner of herbs on the balcony: watercress, salad mustard, catnip, lemon balm, chervil, parsley, dill, savory, chives.

On the balcony in early spring it is quite easy to force perennial onions (onions, chives, onions), parsley, celery, parsnips, beets, rhubarb.

Plant compositions for balconies

When placing flowers in balcony boxes, the main thing is not to get carried away with the variety of colors: no more than two colors that harmonize well. Monochromatic red pelargoniums, fuchsias or salvias, pink petunias, white daisies, yellow or lilac violas are beautiful and laconic.

Two-color combinations of red salvias (petunias, zonal pelargoniums) on the side of the apartment and blue, white, purple petunias paired with yellow marigolds, mignonette, and blue ampelous lobelias on the street side are successful.

Instead of hanging plants, low-growing red-and-white fuchsias, pink ever-flowering begonias, blue petunias or ageratums can be placed in the outer row, and on the inner side - red tuberous begonias and yellow calceolarias, respectively. These options are suitable for semi-shaded and shady balconies.

To create a bright flower spot that attracts attention from the street, red and white pelargoniums, red salvias, yellow marigolds, calceolarias, and nasturtiums are good.

Up close, ageratum, mignonette, kobea, beans, lobelia, daisies, sedums, etc. are expressive.

Some plants are good only in the same type of planting: purslane, gatsania, godetia, celosia, eric, dimorphotheca, doronicum, nemesia, aster, dahlias, coleus, chrysanthemums and lantana.

Microclimate and seasons on the balcony

On insulated, frost-free balconies or loggias you can carry out a successful early spring forcing bulbs - crocuses, tulips and daffodils.

in autumn a number of ornamental plants from the garden will migrate to the balconies and will delight you with flowering all autumn (asters and chrysanthemums).

In summer The balcony will also be decorated with indoor plants that benefit from being in the fresh air: azalea, cyclamen, bromeliad, hydrangea, ficus, clivia, oleander, hippeastrum, agave, aloe, crassula, pomegranate, monstera, aspidistra, aucuba and cacti.

But indoor plants native to the humid tropics and subtropics do not tolerate open ground conditions well (Saintpaulias, or Uzambara violets, peperomia, anthurium, royal begonia, philodendron, sansevieria and dieffenbachia); they only benefit from a glassed-in “dacha” and high air humidity.

Soil for balcony plants

Suitable for most flyers humus-rich compost soil with the addition of peat chips (10-20%) and liming material (ground egg shells). Summer plants such as sweet peas, asters, and chrysanthemums are especially sensitive to a neutral or slightly alkaline soil reaction.

Melissa, catnip, and bluebells prefer slightly alkaline soils (pH up to 7.0-7.5); azaleas, heathers, hydrangeas - acidic soils (pH 4.5-5), they are fertilized with superphosphate or potassium sulfate.

In general, the soil must have moisture permeability, for which river sand is added; be sufficiently moisture-absorbing, which is achieved by adding peat chips, and must be fresh and free from pathogens; in addition, the soil for balcony flowers must be changed annually.

It's important to remember that Earthen mixtures for indoor flowers are not suitable for balcony flowers containing too few nutrients. A three-meter balcony requires about 30 kg of soil mixture.

For summer gardens, you can use peat chips from briquettes, enriched with nutrients: it will provide easier care, retain moisture for a long time, weigh less and is free from pathogens. For perennials grown in tubs and pots, humus lumpy soil with turf and clay additives is preferable.

Unlike annuals, which require replacing old soil with fresh soil every year, perennials are transplanted into new soil after 2-4 years, with the exception of agapanthus: they prefer to remain in lived-in old pots for as long as possible, content with adding fresh soil.

Fertilizing balcony plants

Taking into account the limited feeding area and the rapid depletion of the soil substrate balcony flowers need more frequent feeding compared to garden ones. Complex mineral fertilizers with microelements (manganese, boron, molybdenum) are excellent for these purposes.

Fertilizing is carried out every 7-10 days, alternating with watering, using weak solutions (2-3 g per 1 liter of water). The first feeding is carried out 4-6 weeks after planting and rooting of seedlings. Feeding continues until the end of August.

Minimal fertilizing (once every 2-3 weeks) is given to nasturtiums, gatsania, purslane, sedums, godetia and dorotheanthus: on heavily fertilized soil they form many leaves to the detriment of flowering, or even do not bloom at all; purchased soil for them is diluted by 30% river sand.

How to plant balcony flowers

It is important not to thicken the flowers when placing them in boxes: the optimal distance between seedlings of dahlias, chrysanthemums, salvia, gazania, petunia, pelargonium, asters, lantana, tuberous begonia, fuchsia and celosia is 20-30 cm; for verbena, heliotrope, balsam, godetia, Drummond phlox, violas, zinnias, daisies, mignonette, marigolds and ever-flowering begonia - 12-15 cm; for fire beans and sweet peas - 10 cm.

It is important to remove flowers immediately after flowering, preventing the formation of ovaries, unless you need to collect seeds. When the flowering of ageratum, lobelia and nemesia weakens, it is important to trim the upper part of the plant, leaving only stems 3-5 cm high: they will soon form young shoots and flower buds.

Diseases and pests of balcony plants and how to deal with them

Provided the right location is chosen and proper care is taken, balcony plants are rarely affected by disease.

Reddish or yellow leaves on the edges occurs when the soil is very waterlogged (lack of drainage) or overdrying.

Scanty flowering may indicate an excess of nitrogen in the soil, and in combination with depressed growth and yellowing of leaves - a lack of nutrients.

Plants can be damaged by pests.

Ugly, bent shoot tips and leaves covered with sticky sap, indicate an aphid invasion that occurs in dry, warm summers. Don’t rush to the store for pesticides, but don’t put off fighting pests: they multiply at an unprecedented rate and can quickly eat your entire flower garden. Sprinkle the affected plants with an infusion of garlic, nettle, or, at worst, soap or washing powder.

Sometimes the leaves are eaten by caterpillars - remove them and destroy them. A mini-garden of spice herbs and planting marigolds will help repel pests. Finally, a tiny ladybug will complete the job.

In dry, warm summers, sometimes the leaves and stems become covered white powdery coating- true powdery mildew. Sprinkle the plants with a strong solution of potassium permanganate (15 g per bucket of water) or fermented infusion of fresh chopped garlic (40 g per bucket).

The most effective means of protection are, contrary to popular belief, not strong poisons that destroy pests and pathogens, but simple and generally available preventive measures that stimulate the plant to effectively defend itself.

Do not over-moisten the soil and do not thicken the plantings - your asters, marigolds, and lobelias will not get sick with blackleg and fusarium. Do not use acidified soils - get rid of rot. Every year, change the soil in the boxes with fresh soil - there will be no soil fatigue and pathogens.

Begonia - Begonia L. Begonia family - Begoniaceae Agardh. Homeland - Central Africa and South America.

Perennial tropical herbaceous or subshrub plants. The leaves of all types of begonias are simple, slightly asymmetrical. The flowers are very diverse, mostly with brightly colored perianth.

Begopia is a monoecious plant, but dioecious, that is, male and female flowers are located separately on one plant.

Begonia tuberous - V. tuberhybrida Voss. Begopia is a herbaceous plant 20-40 cm high with a fairly strong, succulent, annually renewed stem and a modified perennial stem in the form of a tuber, which, after the plants have flowered and the above-ground part has died, must go through a short period of rest, and then resumes development again, forming new shoots with new flowering period. The leaves are oblique, typical of begonias. The flowers are large, single, bright, of various colors: white, yellow, pink, red, lilac-crimson with numerous shades. There is no blue tone in the color of begonia flowers.

Begonia flowers are dioecious, dioecious. On one plant there are separate female flowers with a large original fringed pistil and male flowers with thick bright yellow stamens. Female flowers are non-double, that is, they have 4-5 petals. Male flowers can be single (one row of petals with a large number of stamens), semi-double (two or more rows of petals with more or fewer stamens) and fully double (the flowers are more sterile, have no stamens at all, all stamens have turned into numerous petals that are arranged in several rows, the shape and arrangement of the petals are very diverse).

Varieties of tuberous begonia differ in the color and shape of the flowers. The doubleness of the flower varies greatly among different varieties; in well-cultivated varieties the doubleness reaches 80%.

Begonia is demanding of heat, does not tolerate even light frosts, and needs shading from the sun's rays. The soil should be nutritious and sufficiently loose.

Propagated by seeds, green cuttings and tubers. Begonia seeds are very small. They can be obtained by artificially pollinating flowers. To do this, use a brush to apply pollen taken from male flowers several times to the pistils of female flowers.

For summer flowering of begonia, seeds should be sown in December - January in light deciduous soil, without covering them with soil.. After sowing, boxes, bowls or pots with sowing should be covered with glass, periodically moisten the soil and open the glass slightly to avoid excess moisture and the appearance of mold. After pecking the seeds, the glass is opened slightly more often, and after the cotyledon leaves appear, it can be removed completely, in no case allowing the seedlings to dry out. Well-developed seedlings are planted, that is, they are planted freely, separately from each other, so that they can grow better. As the seedlings grow, they need to be transplanted one or two more times.

With early sowing dates (December - January), by May you can have seedlings large enough to plant them in balcony boxes. Begonias should be planted only after spring frosts.

Growing seedlings indoors is quite difficult. Therefore, it is recommended to purchase seedlings from flower growers or specialized stores.

Place the begonia along the box at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other.

In well-grown plants of tuberous begopia, cuttings can be cut and rooted. Bushy forms are better suited for cuttings. The apical part of the stem with several leaves 6-10 cm long is cut into cuttings. The leaves of the cutting are cut in half, the lower leaves near the node are removed, and the cut site is dipped in crushed charcoal for disinfection. The cuttings prepared in this way are planted in clean, damp, dense compacted sand poured into a pot, bowl or other container. After planting, the cuttings are well watered and shaded from the sun during the rooting period, creating conditions of high humidity. To do this, the cutting can be closed with a glass jar or plastic bag, but not forgetting to ventilate periodically.

After 2-3 weeks, the well-rooted cuttings can be transplanted into nutritious soil and grown as an independent plant. During vegetative propagation by cuttings, all the characteristics of the mother plant are transferred to the new plant, including the doubleness of the flower.

By the end of summer, a tuber forms at the base of the plant's root system. In the fall, you should try to protect the plants on the balcony from early night frosts by creating different shelters for them at night (gauze, paper, film, etc.) so that the growing season continues as long as possible.

In the future, begonia tubers must be promptly removed from the balcony box so that they do not freeze.

You can store the tubers in the coolest place in the room. They should be placed in a box, box or pot and covered with peat or soil. It is necessary to create such conditions so that the tubers do not dry out during storage (they must be dense and elastic at all times) and at the same time do not rot, which can happen in conditions of high humidity.

In early spring, long before planting in a balcony box, the tubers need to be germinated indoors in order to plant a ready-made plant in a balcony box.

Tubers begin to germinate 2-3 months before planting, placing them in ordinary nutritious soil and lightly sprinkling it. You should pay attention to the correct planting of the tuber. On its upper part (flat or concave) there are buds in the form of tubercles and irregularities. The lower part of the tuber, on which roots will form, is smooth and slightly convex. At a temperature of 22-24° C and regular watering, the tubers germinate quickly.

In the second year, the tuber grows and ages. Before planting, it can be cut into 2-4 parts so that each part has vegetative buds that give rise to new plant growth. Places of cuts on the tuber should be sprinkled with crushed charcoal, ash or talcum powder for disinfection and lightly dried.

If the tubers are planted immediately in a balcony box, they will also germinate and form a new plant. However, this germination will be slow, since in spring it is difficult to ensure a uniform, optimal temperature on the balcony.

Ever-flowering begonia - B. semperflorens L. et. Ot Perennial herbaceous plant 20-40 cm high, usually cultivated as an annual . It is characterized by abundant and long-lasting flowering, rapid growth, and a wide variety of leaf and flower colors. The flowers and leaves are small and numerous. Different varieties of begonias have white, pink and red flowers in varying shades, and green or purple-red leaves. Flowers, like those of tuberous begonia, are dioecious, female flowers are non-double, male flowers can be double, semi-double and non-double.

Begonia evergreen can be placed on balconies of any orientation. It grows well in the sunniest places and in partial shade. They are planted at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other.