Toilet cistern fittings: how the drainage device is designed and works. Setting the toilet fittings: how to properly adjust the drainage device Gaskets for the shut-off valves of the toilet cistern

Toilet cistern fittings: how the drainage device is designed and works.  Setting the toilet fittings: how to properly adjust the drainage device Gaskets for the shut-off valves of the toilet cistern
Toilet cistern fittings: how the drainage device is designed and works. Setting the toilet fittings: how to properly adjust the drainage device Gaskets for the shut-off valves of the toilet cistern

For a comfortable atmosphere in the house, it is necessary that the plumbing work properly. At the same time, I would like to note that the sewerage system and toilet, which are its components, play an important role. In turn, for the toilet to work well, you need to pay attention to it technological features, its design, as well as the condition of the reinforcement.

What types can there be?

Before deciding how to choose fittings for a toilet, let’s try to understand what should be understood by the word “fittings”. This word should be understood as all the constituent elements that are aimed at ensuring the operation of plumbing, which includes, among other things, the toilet.

According to the functions performed, the following types can be distinguished:

  • fittings that block the flow of water after the tank is filled;
  • fittings that provide drainage of liquid.

Each type constitutes separate mechanisms, which, nevertheless, are closely related to each other. The latter circumstance leads to the fact that if one of them breaks down, the second one stops working too.


How is the tank filled?

The function of filling the tank, as described earlier, is assigned to the mechanism in question. Let's highlight its main details. Thus, the shut-off system is a set of shut-off valves, levers, float and supply fittings.

Several levers usually form a single set of metal or plastic parts, connected to the float. To make the latter, foam or a hollow plastic balloon is usually used; it is designed to regulate the water level in the drain tank and determine when the tank is full.

In this case, all shut-off valves operate as follows. First, the liquid fills the drain tank. In this case, the float rises to a certain limit.

As described earlier, the float and levers are connected, therefore, when the float reaches a certain limit, the lever acts on a valve specially installed for locking, and the flow of water is blocked.

You can also highlight different types fittings according to the location of the liquid supply. Thus, water, if there are fittings for a toilet with a side connection, can flow from the side, while the water supply is usually located on top.

With this arrangement, water is usually drawn in with great noise. The least noise is created by water supply from below. Water can also be supplied from above, but this is a rather rare design.

Thus, fittings for a toilet with a bottom connection seem to be the most preferable.

How to drain

Let's consider the principle of operation of the fittings that ensure the drainage of water. Components such fittings will be:

  • release hole having a certain angle of inclination;
  • an overflow tube is required;
  • The system is not complete without a valve cover and rubber band
  • An important part should also be considered the drain button and the system of mechanisms that ensure its operation.

However, there are several systems that differ in design. Yes, there is a system complete drain with button; a system that has two modes of water drainage, provided with a special function - you can interrupt the drainage of liquid.


In the latter case, an analogue of a key is used that releases either the water completely or partially. I would like to make a separate point about the rod fittings used for the toilet, which operate on the basis of the rod.

There are three types of float valves. These are piston-operated valves equipped with a special lever. "Croydon" - this mechanism was used earlier, in modern toilets, as a rule, replaced by another. A valve based on a silicone or rubber membrane that replaces a gasket.

It should be added that if the float fails, the entire locking system will have to be replaced completely.

When choosing fittings for a toilet, pay attention to the choice of high-quality, durable plastic parts so that the fittings are resistant to overheating and cooling and can withstand mechanical loads.

The membrane valve must be selected taking into account the fact that salt-rich water with impurities quickly damages the membrane. It is also recommended to choose products of a good brand to exclude defects. It is also useful to familiarize yourself with photos of toilet fittings before purchasing.


What to do if it breaks down

If problems arise during the operation of plumbing, then to eliminate them it is worth following a certain algorithm. First, find out the causes of the breakdown, adjust the water flow level, and replace worn parts.

Then you should clean the channels, as well as system parts, from plaque and dirt. In case of serious damage, you should contact a specialist.

Photo of toilet fittings

The water connection to the toilet cistern can be made from below or from the side - this depends both on the design of the toilet itself and on the features of the water supply system. The fittings for a flush tank with a side connection are easy to maintain and reliable, and its price is at an affordable level. At the same time, it performs its functions fully, so when arranging an inexpensive bathroom, it is appropriate to choose it.

Functions of tank fittings:

  • automatic dialing required quantity water;
  • flushing a certain amount of water into the toilet;
  • overflow protection.

The side supply is easier to connect to the water supply system, especially when we're talking about about old houses in which water sockets are designed for just such a connection. In modern universal fittings with lateral supply, the role of a drain element can be played by either a rod or a button.

Our offer

In Moscow, you can buy high-quality fittings with side connections in the Santekhkomplekt online store. We work with Russian brands “ANI Plast”, “Inkoer”, “RBM” and “Uklad”, whose products are highly valued for their stable high quality and affordable prices.

There are rod and push-button fittings on sale, including dual-mode ones. If you need help choosing or a hint on the characteristics of the model you like, call our managers and they will help you figure it out and place an order. You can find the number for your city at the top of the page.

The first priority after installing the toilet in place and connecting it to the sewerage system is to install the cistern fittings. From correct installation And quality regulation this plumbing equipment the smooth operation of the entire system will depend. The tank fittings are a device that ensures that it is filled with water after emptying during draining, automatic regulation the amount of water drained and control of its overflow. How to install the tank fittings correctly, read our article.

Installation of cistern fittings

The fittings for the toilet cistern consist of the following components:

  • angled drain hole;
  • an overflow tube installed on the side of the drain hole;
  • valve covers with rubber;
  • tank filling mechanism;
  • drain button mechanism.

Before setting up the toilet fittings, let's consider its main components.

Tank filling mechanism

This device ensures that the toilet tank is filled with water to a certain level. This mechanism includes:

A float attached to a metal or plastic lever lowers or rises as the water level in the tank changes. When the tank is filled with water, the float rises, reaching maximum level. The lever connected to it closes the shut-off valve, and water does not flow into the tank from the water supply system. When the water is drained, the float lowers and the lever allows water from the pipe to enter the toilet tank.

Water drainage mechanism (drain mechanism)

The flush mechanism is designed to allow water from the tank to directly enter the toilet. Components of the release mechanism:

  • drain siphon;
  • release lever (handle).

The siphon hermetically closes the drain hole, preventing water leakage. There are several types of siphons. The simplest form drain siphon - the familiar “pear” - a rubber cylinder similar in shape to a plunger. The device for flushing water into the toilet (raising the “pear”) most often consists of either a lever located on the side of the tank or a handle on the lid, which must be pulled up to flush the water. More modern version drain device - a button that is located on the front wall of the tank. This mechanism is most often installed on tanks that are built into the wall.

Installation and configuration of fittings

After installing the toilet in the designated place and then connecting the toilet to the sewerage system, the next step is to install the cistern fittings: video offered as small instructions, will help to carry out this work correctly.

Installation of toilet cistern fittings

Let's consider the technology for installing toilet cistern fittings:

  1. To put on drain mechanism rubber gasket.
  2. Install the mechanism into the tank, screw it with a plastic nut.
  3. Place plastic or iron (depending on the configuration) washers and rubber gaskets on the mounting bolts. Insert bolts into holes. On the other side, put on the plastic washer and tighten the nut.
  4. Place the rubber O-ring on the plastic nut. If a new ring is used, sealing is not required. If you used a ring that had already been in use, you should carefully coat all connections with sealant.

Pro tip: Careful inspection of all structural parts may reveal minor casting defects. In this case, you will also need to use a sealant. Installation location o-ring You also need to coat it with a layer of sealant, having previously cleaned it.

  1. Place the tank on the toilet platform and secure it with nuts.
  2. Secure the filling mechanism. Attach the hose from the water supply pipe.
  3. Replace the reservoir cap. Screw on the drain button.

Pro tip: You should not wrap anything additional around the threads of the mounted mechanism to drain water when putting on the hose. Try not to allow distortion, so as not to break the thread and damage the part.

Adjustment of fittings

Installing the toilet and cistern should not cause much difficulty. But in some cases, additional adjustments to the toilet fittings may be necessary. So, to adjust the height of the drain valve:

  1. Disconnect the rod from the overflow pipe.
  2. Release the glass clamp.
  3. Move the stand down or up.

The water level in the barrel is adjusted as follows:

  1. Adjust the position of the glass - raise or lower it along the guide, leaving a distance from the top of the glass to the top edge of the tank of at least 45 mm.
  2. Install the overflow tube 20 mm above the maximum water level and 70 mm below the top level of the rack.

To adjust the small flush, the small flush float must be moved down or up relative to the overflow tube. How to set up a full flush? Move the damper (up or down) relative to the glass.

Adjusting the toilet fittings to full or low flush means that moving the float or flapper down increases the flow of flushed water.

Complies with the requirements of TU 4953-001-02903999-2014
AB 69.57.55.3

Purpose of the product

Designed for filling the flush tank (popularly a cistern) with water and supplying it for flushing into the toilet.

Security measures

The materials used for the manufacture of fittings are not emitted into environment harmful substances and do not provide harmful effects on the human body through direct contact. Working with fittings does not require special precautions.

Specifications

  • Operating pressure range, MPa 0.05 - 1
  • Filling time for a 6.0 liter tank, no more than 2.5 minutes
  • Level stability: change in water level when pressure changes by 0.1 MPa, no more, mm 5.0
  • Diameter of the hole in the tank lid, 38…44 mm
  • Installed resource is not less than 150.0 thousand cycles
  • Connection size G1/2-B
  • Product weight, no more than 0.62 kg

Completeness

The fittings kit includes:

Product storage and care

The fittings should be stored in packaged form in dry, closed rooms at a distance of less than 0.6 m from heating devices.

Not allowed to use detergents, which include abrasive, acid-alkali-containing substances, and organic solvents.

Manufacturer's Warranty

The guaranteed service life of the fittings is five years from the date of commissioning, but not more than six years from the date of production. The service life of the fittings is 6 years.

The product warranty does not apply in the following cases:

  • its mechanical damage;
  • installations in violation of the requirements of this instruction;
  • improper maintenance during operation:
  • water inconsistencies technical requirements GOST 2761-84.

To increase the reliability and durability of the fittings, it is recommended to additionally install a filter in the water supply network.

Installation of fittings

The fittings are supplied assembled, complete and configured for a specific type of tank

After installing the fittings, do not allow them to touch moving parts valves against each other and the walls of the tank.

When connected water hose to the intake valve, hold the valve from turning.


To avoid leakage from under the gasket, tighten the wing nuts evenly on both sides.


Check that there is a gap of 3 - 19 mm between the tank cap and the push-button assembly inserted all the way into the thread of the release valve (without screwing it in).

To reliably center the threads, before screwing in, make 1–2 turns counterclockwise until a characteristic click is heard, which will indicate that the thread has “sat” into place.

  1. If the distance between the reservoir cap and the push-button assembly is beyond
    limits 3...19 mm, it is necessary to adjust the release valve in height
    (see Fig. 2 and the table for setting the height of the fittings), Disconnect rod 23 from
    overflow housing 12. Press out the cup latches 10 and move
    racks 6 up and down, achieve a gap of 3...19 mm.

Attach the rod to the overflow body.

  1. To adjust the water level in the tank
    disconnect rod 2 (see Fig. 1), move
    float up or down and reattach
    craving for him. Minimum distance between
    water level and the upper edge of the tank 45 mm.

  1. After adjusting the water level in the tank, adjust the overflow pipe 7
    (see Fig. 2). To do this, unscrew the bayonet cap 9 and move the pipe
    overflow to a position where the mark on the pipe corresponds to the level
    water in the tank. Tighten the bayonet cap.


* For fittings with extended post
** when adjusting to this division, remove the overflow pipe 7

Reinforcement height adjustment table

Division on the rack scale Height H, mm Division on the rack scale Height H, mm
M** 285-304 15 360-379
1 290-309 16 365-384
2 295-314 17 370-389
3 300-319 18 375-394
4 305-324 19 380-399
5 310-329 20 385-404
6 315-334 21 390-409
7 320-339 22 395-414
8 325-344 23 400-419
9 330-349 24* 405-424
10 335-354 25* 410-429
11 340-359 26* 415-434
12 345-364 27* 420-439
13 350-369 28* 425-444
14 355-374 29* 430-449

Possible malfunctions and ways to eliminate them

Fault name Probable Cause Remedy
Valve does not close
Valve does not open Clogged hole in the slider 5 - guide 3 assembly Disconnect guide 3 and wash the assembly with the slider
Slow tank filling Filter 11 clogged Unscrew the water supply hose, remove filter 11 from housing 8 and rinse
There is water leaking into the toilet The bottom valve 13 is installed incorrectly on the overflow body 12 Adjust the bottom landing! valve 13 on overflow body 12 J by rotating around its axis
Nut 21 is loosely tightened Tighten nut 21
Overflow pipe 7 is incorrectly positioned Adjust
Thrust 23 is set incorrectly Adjust

NOTE: Due to the presence of various impurities in the water, the operation of the release valve may deteriorate over time due to sediment deposited on its parts. In this case, it is necessary to disconnect the valve from the seat, wash it and reinstall it.

Valve drawings

Intake valve (bottom connection) | Rice. 1

Release valve | Rice. 2


Fittings for cistern | Video instruction


Video courtesy of uklad.net
To write this article, I used the instructions included with the fittings and tank.

I also bring to your attention:

Toilet lid installation | Video instruction

The video provides extensive instructions for assembling and installing toilet seats.
With adjustable plastic, non-adjustable plastic fasteners, microlift and metal fasteners.
I wish you successful installation!

The toilet is an integral household element of any apartment, and it is always designed for long term services. In addition to its outer part, it has a drainage device, which is also called a fitting. It is this equipment that needs periodic maintenance, and sometimes under repair. In addition, during the initial installation of the toilet, it is very important to select all its elements correctly.

The outer part of the toilet consists of the following elements:

The toilet fittings perform the functions of draining and filling water into the tank. It consists of the following elements:

When assembled, the fittings look like this.

Components and principle of operation of the drain system

  • stand with tank;
  • lid;
  • button for flushing (nowadays 2 buttons are often used).
  • a float that regulates the filling of water into the tank when the level is insufficient;
  • a shutter that closes the hole in the tank when the flush is completed;
  • traction in the form of a barbell or chain.

The toilet operating cycle is shown in the video.

A schematic representation of the toilet fittings in the figure below.

Pressing the siphon cover opens access to the pipe where the water drains. As a result, the water level in the tank drops, and the float filled with air drops.

The tank operates in 2 modes - draining and filling water.

  • In flush mode, the toilet flushes waste away due to mechanical opening drain hole and supplying a large volume of water. In old mechanisms, a special handle is raised, in new ones, buttons (one or two) are pressed. If there are two buttons, then pressing them simultaneously gives a more complete pressure, while one button gives a standard pressure.
  • In the mode of supplying water to the tank, it comes from the pipe through the side channel. The float lowers and water flows freely into the tank. When it reaches the desired level, the current stops due to the raising of the float.

The operation of the device is based on the principle of a water seal - the drain pipe always has a curved appearance, due to which it always normally has a certain volume clean water. It blocks the access of odors from the sewer to the apartment. Excess water from the tank also flows into the same pipe, so it never overflows and floods the room. The water circulation is shown schematically in the figure.

In this case, water can enter the tank in two ways:

  • The bottom feed mechanism involves water entering the tank from below. The float moves vertically and puts pressure on the device that closes the drain (membrane), as a result of which, when the optimal filling level is reached, the flow of water into the container stops.
  • The top feed mechanism is more traditional - water comes from a special pipe due to the movement of the float downwards, and then, when it reaches optimal quantity, the float rises and blocks access. This mechanism is simpler, but it is noisier than the first.

The operation of toilet fittings is discussed in detail in the video.

Thus, the toilet fittings work due to ordinary forces of attraction.

Types of toilets

There are quite a few types of toilets a large number of. This diversity is explained by different appearance, different drainage mechanisms. pressure force, etc.

So, due to the location drain pipe, highlight:

  • toilets with horizontal flush;
  • with oblique drain;
  • with vertical drain.

Depending on the type of flush, toilets can be:

  • horizontal (cascade);
  • circular (shower).

In the first case, water enters the toilet sink directly and flushes away waste with a strong flow. The second option is more effective, since the pressure goes along inner surface rim, due to which turbulences of water are formed, which well carry all objects along with them. At the same time, a circular drain is quieter than a horizontal drain, since the water flows more evenly.

By appearance relative position The cistern and toilet bases are distinguished by the following types:

  • compact;
  • monoblock;
  • angular;
  • separated.

The first 3 varieties form a single whole with the tank and vary depending on the size of the toilet room. The second is separate, and the tank can often be hidden in the wall. These types are often installed in large shopping centers.

Also, toilets can be made of different materials:

  • earthenware (in most cases);
  • metal (for example, in train cars).

Vacuum toilet

Separately in the row there is a vacuum toilet. It uses a different drain mechanism. Toilet fittings in in this case works not only due to the traction of water, but also with the help air flow. Its main difference from ordinary ones is that it includes:

  • valve that opens at the touch of a button;
  • a vacuum pump that creates low pressure in a sealed chamber.

When the button is pressed, the valve opens and air begins to be sucked into the toilet due to the greatly reduced pressure in the chamber. This air, along with water, provides strong pressure to remove residues. This produces a characteristic sound that has been heard by everyone who has used the toilet on trains. long distance– there they are in all cars.

IMPORTANT. If usually from 4 to 7-8 liters of water are used for flushing, then a vacuum toilet spends no more than 1.5-2. In fact, it saves 2-3 times more water than a conventional system. This is achieved by using air to create pressure. Therefore, vacuum toilets are often installed in apartments.

Types of toilet fittings

The toilet fittings are its most important component, the correct selection and installation of which determines the functioning of the system as a whole, as well as the duration of its trouble-free use.

The classification of fittings depends on their design. For example, according to the method of actuating the drain mechanism itself, it happens:

  • exhaust fittings (rod) - to drain, simply lift the handle or pull the rope with the tip, the locking element opens the drain hole, and water flows into the bowl with waste;
  • push-button (another name is push-button) - the most common option with a push-button drain.

Depending on the characteristics of the float device, there are:

  • piston valves - the float is linked to the piston by a special lever, which moves the piston horizontally. A special gasket is glued to the lower end of the piston, which closes the water supply when the optimal level is reached;
  • membrane - instead of a gasket, a membrane made of rubber or silicone is installed. It reliably blocks access to excess water volumes. It lasts a very long time, therefore it is considered the most correct choice;
  • The Croydon valve ensures vertical movement of the piston; it is not used in modern toilets.

Perhaps the most important classification of toilet fittings is based on the principle of its operation.

Shut-off valves for toilet

This name describes main function this mechanism. It closes the water supply opening when there is enough liquid in the tank. And on the contrary, it opens a hole. when the waste was flushed. The constituent elements of such a system are:

  • glass where the mechanism is located;
  • valve with attached membrane;
  • float;
  • craving;
  • guide

When flushing occurs, the float goes down following the dropped water level, the thrust presses on the valve and opens it, resulting in volumes new water enter the container. Water will be poured in until the float returns up with it and the membrane reliably closes the valve.

Toilet flush fittings

Toilet flush fittings provide a direct flushing process for waste. In addition, it provides emergency water discharge when the tank is overfilled for some reason.

Drainage is ensured by opening the drain hole with a piston and closing it immediately after flushing due to gravity.

The toilet fittings must be optimally suited to each specific device and its technical specifications. One of these important indicators is the peculiarities of supplying new water to the toilet tank.

Fittings for toilet bowl with bottom connection

As mentioned, this is a more efficient and quieter way of delivering water. It is often installed in modern toilets. In these cases, fresh water is pumped from the water supply located below directly into the toilet tank.

This also creates a more aesthetic appearance of the device, since all communications are hidden from view.

In cases with bottom water supply Special attention When purchasing toilet fittings, you should pay attention to sealing gaskets. The fact is that forced submission water from bottom to top creates constant pressure on the pipe, as a result of which leakage is often observed. However, reliable sealing of all connections makes it possible to practically eliminate this phenomenon.

Side eyeliner

This classic version, which can be found in any old apartment. Water is poured through a special hole on the side, and it is located above the water level.

In this case, the fittings are supplied directly to water pipe where the water comes from. It has a push-button valve with a metal button.

You can learn more about the species in this video.

How to choose toilet fittings

If the question arises about replacing old fittings or purchasing a toilet and a device for flushing into new apartment, then before making a choice, you need to evaluate what parameters of the toilet bowl and cistern you are selecting the flush system for, how important water saving, noise and pressure, and aesthetics are to you.

IMPORTANT. The last thing you should pay attention to is the price factor. You can choose cheaper offers from various stores among a particular product, but choosing the cheapest model initially is more expensive for yourself. The fact is that poor-quality articulation of components and the short-lived material from which they are composed will not allow the system to function for as long as we would like. There will often be cases when a leak occurs or the flush becomes weaker, etc. Therefore, it is better to pay extra for quality than to waste time and money solving problems.

Models and prices

Manufacturers supply high-quality models to the market famous brands, such as Wirquin, Optima Siamp, AlcaPlast and some others. Approximate prices for them are presented in the table below.

The toilet fittings and its components are generally quite affordable, and installing them yourself will not be difficult. The cost increases not only depending on the initial quality of the parts. but also on the complexity of the mechanism. So, two-button flush systems are more expensive. Besides. Some of them are equipped with a manually controlled flush stop system - this allows you to save water consumption.

Replacing toilet fittings with your own hands

You can install the fittings by inviting a plumber, but if you figure it out well, you can do it yourself. Moreover, when purchased, the kit always comes with instructions that describe the installation algorithm in detail.

Video instructions for replacing toilet fittings

When installing the system with your own hands, the main elements with which you will work will be:

  • float;
  • twists - connect the float to the tap;
  • supply fitting;
  • float valve, which is attached to the fitting.

Schematically the system looks like this.

IN general view you need to carry out the following sequence of actions:

  • If we are talking about replacing fittings, first carefully remove the old one. To do this, the water supply to the tank is shut off (usually there is a special control valve for this), and the nuts and screws supporting the piston struts are carefully unscrewed. All fitting connections are unscrewed and the system is removed.
  • The elements of the new fittings are assembled according to the instructions: the drain mechanism is installed on a special sealed gasket. Next, it is screwed into the tank with a plastic nut.
  • The bolts are inserted into the holes, and on the other side they are screwed with nuts, and plastic washers are put on top.
  • The tank with the assembled fittings for the toilet is attached to the bowl. This is usually done using the self-adhesive rubber that comes with the kit, as well as with bolts that are carefully tightened with nuts.
  • Next, a hose is connected through which water will be supplied to the tank.
  • If the fittings have additional mechanisms, they need to be adjusted to your needs. For example, you can choose the optimal position of the glass. by moving it up or down; You can also slightly change the position of the drain pipe. During the first days of operation, take a closer look at how much water is wasted. If too much of it is poured out, then you need to adjust the fittings so that less water enters the tank. More details can be found here

IMPORTANT. When assembling the entire system, pay special attention to tightness - carefully fasten all connections, fit rubber gaskets tightly. In the first week after installation, you need to be especially careful to check for leaks. If even small droplets form, the system must be disassembled and reassembled, since in the future the cracks will only increase.

Possible problems during operation

Over time, during the operation of any, even the highest quality toilet fittings, malfunctions in the system may occur:

  • Water leaking from the outside of the pipe. Here the reason is obvious - a leaky gasket. Perhaps it was installed incorrectly, or it has already worn out and moved away from the surface. To begin with, you can try screwing the nut that connects the tank to the pipe until it stops. But if the leak continues, then you need to turn off the water and pull the gasket out from under the tank with careful movements. When it appears completely, you need to remove it by making several windings of fluoroplastic sealing material (fum).
  • If the lever that drains the water does not work, then you need to replace its components; usually they are of universal sizes, and this procedure will not be particularly difficult.
  • If the water does not drain at all, then you need to adjust the angle of the lever to which the float is attached. This is done using a plastic screw.
  • If the drainage occurs unevenly, sometimes in large or sometimes small portions, this indicates that the fastening of the lever has become looser. You need to tighten the bolt and in this position adjust the lever to the required level
  • If too much water is poured in, it means the float is broken. It may be a little skewed or its mechanism may not be working. You either need to fix the spoke
  • If, on the contrary, the drain has become weak and water flows out in small quantities, then most likely the pipe connecting the tank and the bowl is clogged. It needs to be cleaned.
  • If inside the tank forms limescale, then you need to drain all the water, block access to fresh water and wipe off the plaque using citric acid, then rinse it off with water.
  • If there is a sewer smell in the apartment, this indicates that due to a strong pressure drop in the sewer pipe, the water level in the elbow (flush) has dropped sharply - this can be seen with the naked eye. It is possible that the connection between the drain and the sewer was not installed correctly, in which case it needs to be redone, otherwise the smell will continue to flow. Another option is that the drain is dirty; it needs to be cleaned with a plunger or a plumbing cable.

How to save water for drainage

Properly selected and installed fittings not only ensure high-quality drainage, but also help save water.

You can experiment with saving if you notice that the drain is too strong and water is wasted. There is one simple option for this - to reduce the volume of water supplied to the tank after draining.

  • Pour in plastic bottle volume of 1.5-2 liters, pour sand or small stones into it up to half the volume for weight, and then add water.
  • Carefully place this bottle to the side so that it does not catch the moving mechanisms of the fittings.
  • Close the toilet lid.

At first glance, a saving of 2 liters is small. But if you do even 7-8 flushes a day, you will save at least 300 liters of water per month, i.e. almost half a cubic meter. Convert it into money and feel the difference.

Another method involves using water from the sink to flush away waste.

In this case, of course, a re-equipment of the entire system is required. However, if we are talking about newly created communication, take a closer look at this idea. The fact is that the toilet consumes up to 25% of the total volume of water consumption, and such a measure can significantly save resources.

Another option is to purchase a water flush restrictor. Read more about it here.

With average consumption, the savings per year will be about 2,500 rubles.

Toilet care

And of course, we should not forget that in order to maintain cleanliness and prolong the service life of the toilet bowl and cistern, you need to follow simple rules for caring for them:


It is important not only to choose the right plumbing fixtures, but also to carry out ongoing care for her. Then it will serve you for a very long time.