Anemone angelica planting and care. Crown anemone (anemone, poppy flower) - bright shades of the garden. Japanese anemone or hybrid

Anemone angelica planting and care.  Crown anemone (anemone, poppy flower) - bright shades of the garden.  Japanese anemone or hybrid
Anemone angelica planting and care. Crown anemone (anemone, poppy flower) - bright shades of the garden. Japanese anemone or hybrid

This perennial plant, native to the temperate zone of the Northern Hemisphere and North Africa, varies in height from 10 to 100 cm. Anemone - planting and care This plant is relatively uncomplicated. These sophisticated flowers grow quickly, do not require support and easily tolerate winter frosts. Anemone is also called anemone.

I don’t even know what flowers can compare in beauty with an anemone... But I think you will be interested to know about hellebore, periwinkle and gerbera.

Anemone - planting

Tubers are planted in the spring in a well-protected area from the wind, sunny or shaded. For anemone, its planting and care, well-drained and fertile soil is preferred. Tubers need to be buried 5 cm into the soil. The distance between plants should be about 10 cm. If planted in several stages, this will make it possible to increase the flowering period from July to September.

In mild climates, tubers can be planted in autumn and winter; then anemones will begin to bloom in late spring. When planting plants during cold periods, they must be mulched against frost.

Anemone - planting with seeds

Anemone seeds have low germination rate, so planting by seeds is not the most popular method of propagation. Germination rate is about 15%. Breeding anemone through seeds allows you to get flowering only after 3 years.

Sowing in open ground can be carried out almost throughout the year - in spring, summer and before winter. In the last two cases, seedlings will appear next spring.

Propagation of anemone by cuttings of rhizomes

That is, root cuttings. Some types of anemone can reproduce by rhizome cuttings. After flowering, the bush can be dug up; the rhizome is easily divided into parts. At the end of summer, each part will already have renewal buds, so the plants will develop well and bloom next year.

Anemone propagation by tubers

Planting anemones is possible with tubers. Caucasian, Apennine and tender anemones have such rhizomes. As with dividing a regular rhizome, each part of the tuber should have 1-3 renewal buds. It is advisable to divide at the end of summer.

Anemone propagation by dividing the bush

Some anemones reproduce in this way and the best option for this is, as in most cases, early spring. Each division should have two or three renewal buds.

Anemone root suckers

Anemones (Anemones) can form root suckers. Anemone planting can be done in early spring or August.

However, the plant can be most widely propagated by root cuttings.

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Anemone - care

Anemone - planting and care it requires fertilizing the soil with leaf humus or using loose peat. To ensure abundant flowering, complex fertilizers are required before the buds open. Watering, after strengthening the rhizomes in the ground, should be reduced. Only crown anemone requires moist soil during flowering. In not particularly harsh climates, seedlings are covered with humus for the winter.

If the likelihood of severe frosts is high, anemones are removed from the ground in October, the above-ground part is cut off, and the rhizomes are dried on newspaper. Then the tubers are placed for a month in a room with a temperature of 10-15ºC. It is advisable to store them separately from each other in winter. Boxes for storing tubers, to prevent them from drying out, are filled with moistened moss, sawdust, sand or peat and placed in a cool place. By the way, for such a garden plant you can come up with a do-it-yourself planter in which the plant will take on a new look.


Only Caucasian, Apennine and tender anemones require additional care. The most capricious variety is crown anemone. It does not tolerate frost well - it is advisable to insulate it with fallen leaves or dig it up in advance. Its tubers are dried at 20-24ºС and stored until autumn in a dry and warm place in boxes. For the winter, containers with tubers are moved to a room with a maximum temperature of 5ºC. In the spring, whole tubers are pre-moistened with warm water and placed again in open ground, preferably light, moist and fertile.

The beautiful delicate anemone is considered an indispensable attribute of every garden, a cute, unpretentious flower. But some gardeners just can’t make friends with it - either it gets wet or freezes. What's the secret?

Photo of anemones in the garden

But the fact is that a rare plant has such extensive species diversity and such differences in the growing conditions of each species. Hence all the failures and disappointments of gardeners. However, anemone is worth understanding the secrets of its cultivation.

Anemone flowers - description and characteristics

In Russia, planting anemones in open ground has been practiced for a long time. Here they call her ANEMENEMY. The flower belongs to the ranunculaceae family and is a perennial. A large number of anemone representatives are divided into species according to the type of structure of the root system. There are tuberous and rhizome varieties.

Knowing the type of anemone is very important to ensure proper care, because this is a long-lived flower. Some wild varieties live up to 50 years in natural conditions, and cultivated varieties have several methods of reproduction, which provides them with almost the same longevity. So, having made friends with this plant once, you can keep it on your site for quite a long time.

Anemone is universal:

  • it is suitable for both landscape design and cutting,
  • flower colors are very diverse,
  • flowering - from early spring to late autumn.

It would be possible to create a magnificent, constantly blooming flower bed from anemones alone, if their growing conditions coincided.

Planting anemones in open ground

Depending on the type of anemone, certain conditions are provided for growing in open ground.

Shade-loving. These include radde, shadow, Altai, buttercup, Amur, oak, flexible, Udin, smooth, etc.

These anemones are rhizomatous and bloom in early spring. They prefer dense shade, moderate temperature, high humidity, i.e. It is best to place them under the canopy of trees.

They require loose, fertile soils with good drainage, slightly acidic or neutral.

Note! Flexible, Amur and Altai anemones can grow in partial shade.

Shade-tolerant.These are hybrid, Japanese, Hubei, forked, forest, Canadian, etc. These are also rhizomatous anemones.

An interesting feature: forked, forest, and Canadian anemones form root suckers and bloom in May–June, while hybrid, Japanese, and Hubei anemones do not have root suckers and bloom in the fall.

Shade-tolerant anemones require partial shade, a clearing in regions with a cool climate, and constant but moderate humidity. The diffused shade of sparse trees and an area illuminated by the evening sun are the best planting sites for them.

Canadian anemone

Soils prefer light, peaty or sandy, with good drainage, slightly acidic or neutral.

Photophilous. This community is represented by two types of anemones - tuberous and rhizomatous.

The tuberous plants are crown, tender, Apennine, Caucasian, etc. Of these, the Apennine one will bloom first, the rest join it in April - May.

These anemones require a sunny location. They have such an important quality as drought resistance. They need loose, fertile, alkaline soils.

In the photo the Apennine anemone

Light-loving rhizomatous anemones are narcissus-flowered and long-haired. Flowering time is May – June.

These anemones also literally need a place in the sun. They, of course, are inferior to tuberous plants in drought resistance, but are still able to temporarily tolerate a lack of moisture. Soils suitable are loose, fertile, slightly acidic or neutral.

Anemone long-haired

Anemones can be planted in 4 ways

When planting anemones in open ground, you should prepare a fairly spacious area, as the flower grows well. Anemone can be planted in several ways:

  1. seeds in the ground in spring or autumn,
  2. mature rhizomes in the middle of the season,
  3. root shoots in the spring,
  4. tubers in spring.

1 way. Seeds in the ground

Any type of anemone can be planted this way. To do this, it is necessary to fence the area with a flexible border or boards, and prepare the soil of the desired structure and acidity. It is important to remember that anemone seeds have difficulty germinating, so before spring sowing it is necessary to stratify them.

To do this, the seed is mixed with soil or sand, moistened and stored in the refrigerator at a temperature of +6 degrees for three weeks. At this time, the seed shell softens under the influence of cold and moisture, the metabolic processes of the embryo slow down, and its vitality is preserved.

When favorable conditions occur, the embryo awakens, easily breaks the shell and germinates. The best time for spring sowing is the onset of consistently warm weather and an air temperature of at least +16 degrees.

Autumn sowing into open ground with fresh material will give better seedlings, since the anemone seeds will undergo stratification under natural conditions. The area for crops and the soil are prepared in the manner described above.

Planting in open ground occurs at the end of August - September. The seeds are distributed over the area, lightly sprinkled with soil, covered with non-woven material and left until spring. With the onset of warm weather, the covering material is removed, and after a while a large number of young plants will appear.

Method 2. Planting with mature rhizomes in the middle of the season

This method is used because many types of anemone lose their leaves after flowering and then they will be difficult to find. Usually this is how a very overgrown bush is thinned out. Mature rhizomes take root quite easily in a new place.

Rhizomes prepared for planting

Root shoot with two buds

3 way. Root shoots in spring

This planting method is suitable for those types of anemones that produce forcing from the root. A small section of the root with buds and sprouts is carefully cut off from the mother bush and planted in the prepared soil in a permanent place.

4 way. Planting tubers in spring

Most often, newly purchased or stored tubers from last autumn are used. They must be carefully inspected before planting. Sometimes there are dry or rotten spots on the tuber that need to be carefully removed with a sharp knife. The cut area must be treated with wood ash and dried. It is advisable to keep healthy tubers for half an hour in a pale pink manganese solution.

Tubers wake up slowly, so they need to be taken out of storage early and awakened. To do this, you can put them in water for several days or wrap them in a napkin soaked in Epine solution, then in a plastic bag for 6 hours. This will be a good start for the plant.

After some time, bumps will appear on the tubers. These are buds, not roots. From here a sprout will appear and it is with this surface facing up that the tuber needs to be planted. Another guideline is that the sharp part of the tuber is located down, and the flat part is located up. If the tuber has already woken up, and it is too early to plant it in the ground, then you can temporarily plant it in any container with suitable soil, and then move it to a permanent place. But such an anemone will bloom much earlier.

Remember that for tuberous anemone Need alkaline soil! To do this, lime or ash is added to the soil before planting. During the season, the soil around the plant is sprinkled with ash and loosened a couple more times.

Landing with the pointed end down and the flat end up

Anemone transplant

Anemone grows quickly and covers large areas, so every 3 to 4 years gardeners are faced with the problem of transplanting it to a new location. Most anemone species tolerate this procedure very well, even during flowering. And yet each type has its own deadlines:

  • Rhizomatous anemones of early spring flowering need to be replanted before they drop their leaves; later they simply cannot be found.
  • Root-sprouting varieties are best replanted in the spring, when young shoots appear. These anemones tolerate autumn replanting less well, but if necessary, this can be done in early September.
  • Tuberous anemones are also replanted in the spring, as it becomes clear how the tubers survived the winter and in what condition they are.
  • Only the hybrid anemone reacts painfully to division and moving to a new place. If you really need it, it is better to do it in the spring. As a result of autumn replanting, most of the plants die.

When replanting, it is absolutely not necessary to dig up the entire clump. It is necessary to isolate the rhizome with buds or sprouts, carefully separate them and transfer them to the prepared hole. But if there is a need to completely clear the area of ​​anemones and transplant them to a new place, then dig up the entire bush and divide it into parts. Each new plant should consist of a rhizome with 2-3 well-developed buds.

The place for a new planting is filled with soil that is suitable specifically for this species. The depth of the hole for rhizomatous anemones is 10 cm, for tuberous anemones – 2-3 times the height of the tuber. Fresh plantings need to be watered and mulched with humus or peat.

If anemones with buds are tolerated, they need to be fed with mineral fertilizers for flowering plants. Flowering and seed formation require a lot of effort, especially if this period is combined with transplantation. Moved plants without buds will bloom only next spring.

Caring for anemones in the open ground

Watering

Each specific area has its own requirements for this care procedure. Where it rains often, anemone can do without watering at all. And in arid areas, sometimes you have to moisten the plantings every day. You also need to care for anemones in the open ground in accordance with the type of plant.

  • Shade-loving anemones prefer not to swamp, of course, but to have constant moisture.
  • Shade-tolerant plants require moderate watering.
  • Light-loving plants can even withstand drought, but you shouldn’t put the plants to the test. It is better to provide the anemones with such care that they respond with lush flowering.
  • All species benefit from watering in the spring when plants awaken, during the period of intensive growth and the appearance of buds, during transplantation, during hot weather and in the fall as a moisture-recharging event.

Feeding

It is advisable to prepare fertile soil for planting anemone. However, flowers do not tolerate fresh manure well, so you only need to add rotted or compost. Young plants will receive their first feeding from the nutrient soil.

  • For active growth of green mass of both young and adult plantings containing nitrogen. It is better to apply them in early spring.
  • When bud formation and flowering begin, anemones need more phosphorus, potassium and manganese. They are contained in complex mineral fertilizers. By applying this fertilizer, it will be possible to extend the flowering period.
  • In the fall, you also need to feed the anemones so that they can better survive the winter. In this case, mineral fertilizers with a reduced nitrogen content are used and mulching is done with peat or humus.

Loosening

When growing anemones in open ground, you cannot do without loosening, because all types of these flowers love light, oxygen-saturated soils. Therefore, after each watering and mulching, loosening should be done.

In addition, when caring for tuberous anemones, loosening is carried out twice a season with the addition of wood ash to maintain soil acidity at a low level.

Anemone, like many buttercups, does not tolerate sodding. In this case, loosening helps get rid of weeds and keep the plantings clean.

Anemone propagation

These flowers have several methods of reproduction: most - by seeds and vegetatively, some - by seeds and tubers. This explains the long-term presence of anemones in landscaping areas.

Seeds The propagation process is difficult, since stratification of seeds in natural or created conditions is required. Nevertheless, anemone plantings often expand due to self-seeding. The planned methods of propagation by sowing in open ground are described above.

Vegetative reproduction is easier.


Tubers or parts of tubers, crown anemones, Apennine anemones, tender anemones, and Caucasian anemones reproduce. It should be noted that these species are not considered frost-resistant. In most regions, their tubers are dug up in late July - early August and stored until spring.

In early spring, after the tubers awaken (see the description of the awakening procedure above), you can begin to divide them. Each piece of tuber must have at least one, and preferably several, buds. Then the cuttings need to be dried, sprinkled with wood ash and planted in a permanent place. Further care in open ground is the same as for other young plantings.

This procedure can be performed in late autumn, but there is a possibility of the tubers freezing or getting wet.

Using anemone in garden design

When drawing up landscape compositions, it is necessary to take into account the type of anemone in order to ensure proper care in the open ground, as well as the flowering period, the height of the peduncles and the color scheme of the flowers.

For example, Altai, shady, and oak anemones tolerate shade well, and they also bloom in early spring. In the conditions of an awakening garden, in the tree trunks of shrubs and trees, they will look great.

Apennine, crown and tender anemone love the sun, but bloom at different times: Apennine - in early spring, and the other two - in May - June. If you plant them side by side, you will get an elegant, long-blooming flowerbed. And if you add tulips there, it will be impossible to take your eyes off! By the way, such a mixborder does not require watering.

Low-growing anemones 20–25 cm high are used to frame paths between trees. Buttercup, oak and blue anemone are best suited for this, as they grow in the shade and cool.

The tender anemone is also short, only 20 cm, but it is demanding of the sun and tolerates a lack of moisture, so it can be successfully used in rock gardens. Even after flowering has ended, its graceful leaves will serve as a decoration for the alpine hill.

Forest anemone, unpretentious and hardy, produces flower stalks up to 35 cm in height. Its snow-white flowers are used in bouquets, as well as crown anemones.

Crown anemone is interesting because it has large double and semi-double flowers of a wide variety of shades: white, crimson, purple and even white with a crimson stripe (Bicolor).

The Japanese anemone is very good. It has a high peduncle, up to 90 cm, and large red flowers (variety Siyanie). Another variety, equally tall, has smaller pink inflorescences (September Charm). Both varieties are unusually decorative; they are often planted in mixborders and used for cutting.

You can endlessly fantasize and experiment with anemone, which is why this flower is so loved by gardeners. Of course, it’s such a beauty, and even in the open ground it requires very little care!

Forcing anemones

You can also make anemones bloom even in February or March. For such a pleasant surprise, large, from 5 to 7 cm in circumference, crown anemone tubers are suitable.


Diseases and pests

To the delight of gardeners, anemones rarely get sick or are affected by pests. More often, problems arise in areas with a humid climate.


Preparing for winter

Many rhizomatous Anemone species are quite hardy, but they also require a number of preparatory measures in order for them to survive wintering well in the open ground.

  1. One of the main activities is mulching. To do this, make a pillow 15–20 cm thick from peat or compost. You can make the same pillow from dry leaves or pine branches.
  2. Before mulching, you should not trim the leaves and stems of plants in areas where there are severe winters. And, on the contrary, in regions with a warm climate, the green mass must be removed to avoid the formation of rot.
  3. Anemones transplanted in summer and autumn must be covered with covering material after mulching.

Some tuberous anemones overwinter in open ground, for example, tender anemone. But she may face another danger - getting wet. Therefore, it is better not to take risks, but to dig up all the tubers and provide them with good conditions for wintering.

  1. The tubers are dug up after the leaves die, carefully cleaned of their remains and dried.
  2. To prevent the tubers from drying out, they are placed in sand or peat and stored all winter at + 5 degrees.
  3. In the spring, the tubers are removed, inspected, divided into parts if necessary, and measures are taken to awaken them.

The best varieties

Anemone is loved not only by gardeners, but also by breeders. Every year more and more new varieties appear. So in 2018, several new Japanese tuberous anemones are offered for cutting:

Curly swan– a tall variety (70–80 cm) with large white flowers, blooming from June to October.


Pictured is the anemone Curly Swan

dreamy swan- similar to the previous one, but with soft pink buds that turn into snow-white double flowers. This variety may well keep the Curly Swan company, because... blooms from August to September.

This photo shows the anemone Dreamy Swan

snow whirlwind- even taller - up to 120 cm, also has large double white flowers, flowering in August - September.


Anemone Snow Whirl

And that's not all that's new!

Of the famous varieties - everyone's favorite Hubei anemone Crispa. It is unique for its unusual foliage. At first it can be mistaken for curly parsley, but the edges of the corrugated leaves are surrounded by a cherry border. In August, strong flower stalks up to 60 cm high shoot out from this stunningly beautiful clump, and large pink flowers open. This beauty pleases the eye for more than a month.

Anemone Hubei Crispa

Wood anemone Blanda Blue Shades differs in winter hardiness. It is short, 20–25 cm, but looks bright and impressive due to its large blue-violet flowers with yellow stamens.


Anemone Blue Shades

Anemones Tenderness usually sold in a mixture and come in white, light blue and deep blue. These babies (height 15 cm) bloom already in April and decorate alpine hills with a bright spot or serve as a delicate border of garden paths.


Mixture of anemones Tenderness

You can describe the beauty and charm of these wonderful flowers endlessly, but it is better to choose your own anemone or several that will suit your yard and will enjoy living with you. And, as you can see, caring for anemone in open ground is not difficult.

Crown anemone is one of the spring flowers. The flower resembles a poppy in shape, as it contains several large petals and a seed head in the center. The height of the anemone is 20-40 centimeters, and the diameter of the flower can reach from 5 to 10 centimeters. The inflorescences have different colors and contain a rich palette of shades: from calm pastel tones to bright rich colors. Anemone grows in any region and in open ground and easily tolerates low temperatures down to minus 5 degrees.

Features of cultivation

Anemone is grown mainly from tubers, less often and longer – from seeds. It is believed that growing a flower is a rather difficult process that requires a lot of attention and effort. Tubers often rot and die if improperly prepared or planted. To prevent this from happening, you need to know the features of germination of tuberous anemones:

  • Selection of tubers. You need to buy planting material in specialized garden stores. Tubers must be of good quality and correct shape. Planting material must be packed in a bag. Usually the tubers are sold dried to prevent rotting. Be sure to pay attention to the expiration date of the tubers and the date when they were dug up. It is better to take plants that have been grown recently. Old, stale tubers will take a long time to wake up, so germination will be late.
  • Boarding time. Since anemone is a spring flower, planting in open ground is carried out in May, when the ground has warmed up sufficiently. You can plant anemone directly outside if it is in the southern part of the country. For other regions, if you want the flower to bloom in early summer, anemone is grown in pots or cups. Then the grown seedlings are transplanted into open ground. In this case, the tubers are planted in pots approximately in mid- or early April.
  • The soil. Anemone does not tolerate acidified and stagnant soils. Neutral soil is excellent for the flower; it quickly takes root in a new place and grows actively. To test the acidity of the soil, you need to use litmus paper. If the acidity is at a high level, the soil is alkalized with lime (on average up to 1 kilogram of lime per 1 square meter of land).

When growing anemone with tubers, flowering begins in the same year, unlike planting with seeds.

Planting tubers

One of the mistakes in planting tubers is soaking them. Tubers need to be moistened, and not immersed in water to drink moisture. They absorb too much liquid and then rot. The correct way to soak anemones is given step by step below:


  • pour a little water into a saucer, add a drop of a growth stimulator (epin, zircon);
  • take a piece of gauze or cotton cloth and moisten it in water from the saucer on all sides;
  • Anemone tubers are placed on a cloth and covered with the same layer on top. You can form a snail: roll the fabric into a narrow strip, distribute the tubers over it and roll it in the shape of a snail;
  • closed tubers are placed in a plastic bag or plastic container with a lid in a cool place and left for 5 hours;
  • While the tubers are soaking, prepare the soil: mix soil, sand and peat in equal parts, add humus. Pour the soil into the pot and moisten it;
  • After time, the tubers are taken out and placed on the ground, covered with plastic wrap on top and placed in a cool place;
  • After about 10-12 days, the tubers give roots and a growing point.

Attention!

The optimal temperature for germination should be in the range from 12 to 17 degrees Celsius, not higher.


Later, when the tubers are ready for transplanting, they are planted immediately outside if the soil temperature is above 10 degrees or continue to be grown in pots. The anemone needs to be planted with its sprout facing upward, and the tuber itself is immersed in the ground to its two heights.

Anemone care

When grown outdoors, anemone can be planted with other flowers; it goes well with heuchera, hosta, and bells. The only factor that will have a detrimental effect on the flower is excess moisture in the soil. Under no circumstances should the soil be allowed to become waterlogged. The tubers instantly rot and die irrevocably. The anemone is watered infrequently and with a small amount of water: 1 watering every 7-10 days with 10-15 liters of water per 1 square meter of land is quite enough. On hot days, watering is increased more often, but they carefully monitor the condition of the soil and do not allow it to become waterlogged. Watering is carried out during growth and in the budding phase; during flowering it is generally better to refrain from watering.


Crown anemone feeding is carried out 2 weeks after planting in open ground. Proper feeding will speed up flowering and allow you to get flowers of large diameter and rich color. Immediately after planting, apply nitrogen fertilizer (15-20 grams per 10 liters of water). Before the anemone blooms, it is fed with a potassium supplement. This may be potassium chloride or potassium sulfate. There are complex fertilizers that contain organic elements in addition to potassium; these can also be used. Stove ash works well on young plants. To use it, dilute a glass of ash in 10 liters of water and water the anemone. You can simply mulch a flower bed with a glass of ash; with watering, it will penetrate into the soil and saturate the tubers with nutrients.

Anemone can be found on the plots of many gardeners. Planting and caring for this plant is not difficult, the anemone is unpretentious and undemanding, so it is a frequent inhabitant of country flower beds. Many people know this plant, which belongs to the buttercup family, as the “daughter of the winds.” The ancient Greeks gave this name to the flower. Visually, this perennial is very similar to poppy.

In our country, low-growing varieties that reach 30 cm in height are very popular. Tall varieties have also been bred, but in our climatic conditions they are rarely found.

In total there are more than 150 varieties of anemone. They differ in flowering time. It is this special feature that allows the owner of the plot to become the owner of a beautiful flower bed that will delight the eye throughout the summer season.

Anemone the most famous species and varieties with descriptions and photos

There are more than 150 species of these magnificent flowers. Gardeners prefer:

  • oak or white
  • crowned;
  • forest;
  • Japanese;
  • tender.

Features of tender anemone

These plants look exquisite, reach a height of 5 or 10 cm, and typically bloom for 14 to 21 days. They bloom by mid-May. At the end of this month, the leaves of this crop gradually wither. In June they are no longer there.

This is why it is worth planting anemone around large perennials. This will be an ideal location as they begin to grow at the end of May.

Tender anemone will feel great in soil where there is good drainage and sand. Tender anemone loves places with a lot of sun or partial shade.

Very famous and popular varieties of this species:

  • Variety ‘Blue Shades’, which means ‘Blue Shadow’ - flowers of light blue shades;
  • Variety ‘Sharmer’ - dark pink flower color;
Photo: Tender anemone varieties Blue Shades and Charmer
  • Variety ‘Pink Star’, translated as ‘Pink Star’ - the flowers have pink-lavender colors;
  • Variety ‘Radar’ - with flowers of a purple-red hue, inside of which the snow-white center stands out effectively;

Photo: Tender anemone varieties Pink Star and Radar
  • Variety ‘Rosea’, translated as ‘Pink’ - has unusual pink-lilac flowers
  • Variety ‘Violet Star’, means ‘Lilac Star’ - the flower has a white center, and the petals are colored amethyst-violet.

Photo: Tender anemone varieties Violet Star and Rosea

Features of crown anemone

There are colors: blue, red, pink, crimson shades. And the terry forms impress with their appearance! These are all the “advantages” of crown anemone.

There are also “cons”. Since this species is a “native” from the Mediterranean, placed in the conditions of the middle zone, it is not stable in winter, and will bloom very modestly.

In southern countries, bushes can grow up to 45 cm in height, but in our country they reach only 15-20 cm, no more.

Varieties of crown anemone:

  • Bridget Mix - flowers reach 30-40 cm in height. The color is varied. The surface of the flowers can be either double or semi-double.
  • Admiral - flowers of rich pink and purple shades, framed by emerald foliage;

Photo: Crown anemone varieties The Admiral and Brigid Mix
  • Mount Everest is a snow-white beauty with double flowers up to 45 cm in height;
  • Mr. Fokker - flowers of lilac or blue tones, similar to poppies;

Crown anemone varieties Mount Everest and Mr-Fokker
  • Governor - flowers of a ruby-red hue, at the base of the petals there is a white border with black stamens;
  • De caen - non-double, of various shades;

Crown anemone varieties The Governor and De Caen
  • Bicolor - spectacular snow-white flowers inside hide a rich pink center;
  • Holland (popularly called “anemone”) has a saucer-like shape, wide red petals, and a white center. It can easily be confused with poppy;
  • Sylphide - enchants with the beauty of its unusually shaped petals, which have a bright pink-lilac color.

Photo: Crown anemone varieties Hollandia and Bicolor Crown anemone variety Sylphide

Distinctive features of oak or white anemone

This “representative” of the anemone shows the beauty of its flowering for 21-30 days in the spring. The oak anemone begins to bloom at the end of April, and ends somewhere in mid-May. The bushes do not grow higher than 20-30 cm. The flowers usually have a diameter of 2 cm to 3.5 cm.

Quite common are varieties of this type of anemone, which has snow-white flowers. But varieties have already been developed where the flowers have pink, purple, and bluish shades. There are also regular and velvety types.

By the beginning of summer, it is noticeable how the leaves of the anemone slowly turn yellow, and at the height of summer there are no more leaves. Oak anemones have the following “advantages”: the ability to survive and low maintenance requirements.

Japanese anemone or hybrid

Bushes can reach 40 cm in height. A distinctive feature of Japanese anemone buds is their rich, rich or pale tones, which are presented in a wide range of colors.

The leaves are dark in color. The buds are not on their own, but in groups that form loose inflorescences

Forest anemone

The bushes are dense. Their height does not exceed 50 cm. The buds are not collected in inflorescences (each on its own). There are ordinary and terry ones.

The flower can reach a diameter of 5 to 6 cm. There are varieties with a flower diameter of 8 cm. Large leaves have long petioles.


Photo: Japanese or hybrid anemone
White oak anemone and white terry anemone
Forest anemone

How does anemone reproduce?

Propagation by seeds

Many anemones do not grow from seeds. Since the embryos in the seeds of these plants are small and not very developed, this leads to slow growth, most often this occurs only in the 2nd or 3rd year. In order for seeds to develop normally, they need periodic changes in soil temperatures.

When ideal conditions are created, most of these plants self-seed. A large number of seedlings can be observed in the Central regions of the Russian Federation in almost all types of anemone. This does not apply to the following types:

  • tender;
  • Apennine;
  • Caucasian.

Some gardeners living within the Moscow region have observed self-seeding even in these species. You can get a large number of seedlings by creating the necessary conditions for the flowers. The most important thing is that the seeds are fresh. Then the result will be the best.

Typically, this occurs in early or mid-summer, when early-blooming species begin to bloom. To do this, you need a box with fertilized soil, which has been loosened in advance.

The boxes are dug into the ground in a shady place to prevent the soil from drying out. The soil in the boxes must be covered with cut branches.

At the end of autumn, you can also sow seeds in boxes that have been dug in advance. The use of boxes makes it possible to save single seeds. When the seeds were planted in summer or autumn, they will sprout next year, in the spring.

In anemone seeds with long roots (this applies to Altai, oak forest, Amur), in 1 year of life only a small root appears, which has a bud at the top.

Over time, the rhizome increases in size, becoming similar to a real mature root. Branches begin to emerge from the root.

After 6-9 years, the first root dies off, and the side shoots become isolated. In this way, the process of natural vegetative propagation is carried out.

In the summer, after the upper (aerial) part dies, the root decomposes. Over 1 year, the root increases by several centimeters (from 3 to 4). The rhizome begins to grow when the plant blooms (in May).

At the end of summer (in August), a bud appears in the upper part of the rhizome with a shoot embryo that will grow next year. The root contains many additional shoots that go into the ground to a depth of 10 cm.

The root goes deep into the ground up to 5 cm. Since the root is not very deep in the soil, anemones have difficulty withstanding the lack of moisture in the soil and when the soil hardens.

A distinctive feature of the wood anemone is that its seeds begin to germinate faster than other species. Its seeds, planted in mid-summer, can sprout in September of the current year. Once the anemone seeds have been collected, they are planted in moist, loose soil.

Then the sown seeds are covered with fresh moss or other material that prevents the soil from drying out. As soon as the leaves of the emerged seedlings dry out, their tubers are dug up (carefully) and stored in a room with good ventilation and humidity.

In the “long-haired” and “narcissus-flowered” anemone species, the seeds ripen closer to July (or even August). They should also be planted in boxes at the end of the autumn season. Next year, in the spring, they will produce seeds.

Anemone differs from other plants in that its seeds take a very long time to germinate. Only 1 part of the planted seeds germinates.

If sufficient watering is provided, the emerging seeds will develop well, and most of them will bloom in 2-3 years. The longest-growing seeds of all species (3 or 4 years) are the seeds of the long-haired and narcissus-flowered anemone.

Reproduction of anemone by tubers and rhizomes, bulbs

Anemones often reproduce vegetatively: by root shoots, by dividing a tuber or bush.
Reproduction using shoots of a long branching root occurs in anemones belonging to the following species:

  • flexible
  • buttercup;
  • Altai;
  • smooth;
  • Udinskaya;
  • Amur;
  • shadow;
  • Radde;
  • oak forest

When the plant has flowered and been dug up, its roots themselves are divided into separate segments (segments). Each segment is an annual increase. Additional tendrils appear on individual roots and buds form for a new stem.

In many of the above species of anemones, these buds are already forming by mid-summer. This indicates that in a year the transplanted plant will develop and bloom well.

Anemones that have tuberous roots reproduce by dividing the tuber. This method is typical for:

  • Apennine;
  • crowned;
  • tender;
  • Caucasian species of anemone.

Each branch of the tuber should have a bud, preferably several, with part of the tuber. This is the time when anemones are at the end of their dormant state, in August.

Representatives that have a vertical root (narcissus flower, long-haired) are characterized by such a method of reproduction as dividing the bush. The optimal time for this is March, when the shoots grow, and August.

Each part that divides must have several buds and a root segment. In fertilized and loose soil they take root in the shortest possible time.

Those anemones that can produce root shoots reproduce using a root shoot with a bud. This method is typical for forked, Canadian, forest, hybrid, forked anemone.

They breed in March or August. The root shoot is formed from additional buds located on the rhizome. They appear in large numbers in anemones after flowering. To plant a large number of plants, root cuttings are used.

Advice! The best time for cutting an anemone bush is the period when the flower is just beginning to grow, or in a state of “sleep”, in August.

During the awakening period of the plant, in the spring, the rhizome grows intensively. Even at this time, of the total number of anemone cuttings planted, only half, or even less, will take root.

If you choose this method of propagation, then wood anemone or Canadian anemone are best suited. Cuttings of these flowers take root by 75%.

At the beginning of spring, the plant from which shoots are taken must be dug up, the roots washed, and cut off near the neck of the rhizome. The “donor” plant is returned to its place. It usually takes root quickly and restores its strength during the growing season.

The anemone roots, which are separated from the “donor” plant, are divided into separate cuttings. They should be between 5 and 6 cm in size.

Advice! You can speed up the appearance of roots by using growth stimulants. For example, the drug epin is effective and can be used to treat cuttings.

The divided cuttings should be planted in a pot containing loose soil. For soil use: peat soil mixture, loam, sand. When filling the pot with soil, try to compact it so that the soil is no less than 2 cm below the top level of the pot.

Such soil prevents the cuttings from drying out, keeps them in the correct position, and helps maintain good air access.

During the regrowth period, good access to nutrients will be provided to the plant. The cuttings should not be located closer to each other than 4 cm. The upper edge of the cutting should be flush with the soil. Then the soil is lightly pressed down (with your fingers). The top of the soil is covered with sand.

It is advisable to place the pots in a greenhouse, or bury them in the ground in a shady place, covered with polyethylene. It is not worth watering often, as the planted cuttings may begin to rot, which will lead to their death.

It is recommended to water more often only when a stem with leaves appears. After this has happened, an additional rhizome appears at the stem. After this, remove the polyethylene. After a year, you can plant anemones in a flower bed.

Video: how to prepare Anemone for planting in the ground (germination)

Anemones - planting in open ground

Selecting a place for a flower bed

Before planting anemones in open ground, you should decide on the place where it will be most comfortable for them to grow. It is necessary to take into account the lighting features for different types of anemones:

  1. For varieties of anemones that are accustomed to growing in the shade in their natural habitat, they need to create the same conditions in the flowerbed. They love shade, characteristically for Altai, Amur, flexible, buttercup, oak, shady, and smooth anemones. These flowers will grow great in the northern part of the site, or under trees with a spreading crown.
  2. In areas where the shade is moderate, the following will be comfortable: wood anemone, Canadian anemone and forked anemone. In nature, these flowers grow in forests where there is a lot of sunny color and in forest clearings. Typically, flower beds for growing these flowers are built in the east of the site.
  3. Sunny color is vital: crowned, delicate, Apennine anemone. The south side is ideal for these varieties. These species should not be watered heavily, as they are accustomed to moderate moisture consumption.

What kind of soil should there be for growing anemone flowers?

There are few varieties of this crop that do not like delicate, loose, moist soil. Before planting anemones, you need to prepare the soil. In order for the structure to be most suitable, the soil is mixed in such a way that it includes: sand, earth and small stones.

It is also advisable to use brick chips. In such soil, air will pass easily, ensuring good water circulation, which will prevent the roots from rotting.

Caucasian, Apennine and crown anemones require soil with an alkaline composition. For all other varieties, a neutral or slightly acidic soil composition is suitable. The most unpretentious species is the forest anemone. The soil for it should not contain a lot of sand.

Species whose roots are tuberous need soil whose acidity does not exceed 8 units. If the acidity exceeds this value, then fine charcoal is added to the soil.

Before planting the tubers, the soil is mixed with wood ash. To ensure that the acidity of the soil does not increase during flower growth, this operation is carried out periodically. To do this, fill the beds with ash and loosen the soil.

Video: how to plant anemone tubers in a pot

How to transplant anemones into open ground

Spring is the time when it is necessary to replant the root shoots of anemones: hybrid, forest, Canadian, forked. As soon as the sprouts become visible on the surface of the soil, it is necessary to dig up the bush itself.

Then separate the additional root that appears with the sprout, and then replant it in a pre-selected place with soft, fertilized soil. You can replant flowers in the fall, but the effectiveness will be low.

These species do not tolerate transplantation well. Many transplanted shoots die. In particular, this applies to hybrid anemone. In spring you can plant anemones with small roots (narcissus flower, long-haired).

Typically, gardeners plant tubers in the ground that have been stored indoors for the winter.

Anemones - ephemeroids are planted only in the summer, after the end of May flowering. Then a bud appears on the root, which will sprout next year.

If you take part of the root with a bud and then plant it in a prepared place, the sprout will take root 100%. The sprout is dug into the ground to a depth of 5 cm. The transplanted sprout should not be watered immediately.

Roots removed from the ground do not dry out. Here it is important to catch the moment when the plant has already bloomed, but has not yet dried out.

Important! If you miss this moment, the transplant will not be successful, since the plant has gone into a dormant state.

Those plants that were replanted this year will bloom next year in the spring.

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Caring for anemone flowers

It is important to monitor the moisture level of the soil in which anemones grow. High humidity can cause roots to rot. But lack of moisture will also “kill” the roots. It is important to observe the “golden mean” here.

If the humidity is high, then drainage is done in the soil. If it’s low, you need mulch. Wet fallen leaves, peat, and special mixtures are used as this material. Mulch will prevent moisture from evaporating and prevent weeds from appearing.

The foliage of apple, pear, plum, etc. trees is best suited for anemones. The layer should be approximately 5 cm thick.

For fertilizers, preparations are used that contain a complex of mineral substances. They are used only during the period when anemones are blooming. If the soil was well fertilized in advance, then you do not need to use these mineral complexes.

In central Russia, all varieties of anemone are left in the open air for the winter. In advance, the height of the mulch layer is increased 3 times. The mulch is covered with spruce branches and tree branches.

If the region has a harsh climate, the roots are dug out of the soil for the winter. Store in a cool place. Tuberous varieties are very afraid of frost.

Alina Sokolova, especially for

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Anemones (Anemones) are perennial herbaceous plants of the Ranunculaceae family. Translated from Greek Άνεμος - wind or daughter of the winds. The thin petals of anemones tremble even from a light breeze; for a long time there was a misconception that the flowers are so sensitive that they open or close in the wind. The genus is diverse, it includes one and a half hundred tuberous and rhizome species. Plants differ in size (from 10 cm to a meter), type of inflorescences and flowering time. Wild anemones are found in the forests of Russia: oak, buttercup, forest, sleep-grass.

Features of growing anemones

Based on their flowering time, anemones are divided into spring and autumn. Spring varieties, which are double, have petals of delicate colors: white, pink, blue, cream, lilac. Flowering does not last long, begins in May and ends in July. The leaves remain until autumn, but they are not very attractive. Autumn bright flowers delight with a variety of colors until late autumn.

There are both unpretentious anemones and those that require special care. The peculiarities are explained by differences in root formation: anemones with rhizomes are quite easy to grow, but insufficient care of tuberous plants leads to slower growth, lack of flowering and death of flowers. When growing anemones, it is necessary to take into account their characteristics:

  • In dry and hot weather, anemones need abundant watering.
  • In the fall you need to feed the plants with complex mineral fertilizer, before planting and in the spring - with organic fertilizer.
  • In winter, anemones need insulation with dry foliage.
  • The most reliable methods of propagating anemones are seed and vegetative (root suckers).

Planting anemones in the ground

Attention! Anemones grow very quickly. In a couple of years, one plant spreads over an area of ​​about one square meter. Take this into account when landing.

Early anemones bloom before the trees have time to become covered with dense foliage, so feel free to place them in the garden. The flowers look great next to the young foliage of barberries and spirea.

Planting methods

In order for the dried rhizome to wake up, it is placed in a container with well-moistened gauze for forcing and before planting in the ground. After this, the anemones are planted in pots with loose soil and a layer of drainage, and placed in a lighted place.

Advice. When planting in the ground, soak the tubers for 30 minutes in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Loosen the soil and clear it of weeds. Place a scoop of humus and half a glass of wood ash in the hole. Place the tuber bottom down and cover with soil. The height of the layer is three tubers. Water with complex fertilizer.

Planting in spring

In spring, anemone tubers are planted in an area protected from the wind. By planting the nodules in several stages, you will prolong flowering, and the flowerbed will live from July to early autumn. At the end of flowering, crown anemones should be dug up, dried and the aerial part cut off. Dry the pineal rhizomes for four weeks at a temperature of +10-15°C with the roots and soil on them. Store the tubers in winter separately from each other in boxes with slightly damp peat, sawdust and sand. The tubers should not dry out, so put them in a cool place.

Planting in autumn

In areas with mild climates, anemone tubers can be planted in the fall by mulching the planting. Anemones planted before winter will bloom in late May - early June.

Crown anemones are suitable for winter forcing; soak the tubers for 3 days in moistened sand, after which they can be planted in pots. Water the tubers and place them in a cool, dark place (about +5°C). When shoots appear, move the pots to the light; the room temperature should be about +10°C. Watering from now on should be regular.

In the first year, anemones grow slowly, but after that they actively grow, forming colonies. It is advisable to divide the plantation in the fall, when flowering has ended, or in early spring.

Soil for anemones

All anemones grow well in fertile and loose soils. Crown, Apennine and Caucasian varieties love alkaline soil, the rest prefer slightly acidic and neutral soils (pH 5-8). The exception is the wood anemone, which thrives in poor sandy soil, but the flowers will be larger in fertile soil.

The most demanding of the soil are the root shoot anemones: fork and Canada anemones. These varieties require light soil (sandy or peaty) on which water does not stagnate.

Tuberous anemones develop well in limed soil with an acidity of pH 7-8. Before planting tubers, it is recommended to add wood ash to the soil. When adding ash during the growing process, the ground is sprinkled with ash and loosened.

Hybrid varieties love loose, fertile soil, perhaps with the addition of sand. Hybrids need fertilizing with organic fertilizers: rotted manure, compost.

Features of caring for anemone in open ground

To create favorable conditions for anemones to grow and bloom for a long time, certain conditions must be met.

Location and lighting

Light requirements vary for anemones of different origins. Thus, species that grow naturally in forests love shade. These are anemones that bloom in early spring and retire in early summer. They bloom together, covering the ground with a dense carpet, and at the same time shed their petals. These include varieties with long root systems: smooth, Amur, oak, Altai and other species. Early flowering varieties can be planted on the north side of the house, under trees, in damp and cool places.

Anemones, whose homeland can be considered the Mediterranean, are light-loving. These are Caucasian, Apennine, crown and other species. These varieties do not have enough sun in the middle zone, so choose light southern slopes for them. Narcissus-flowering and long-haired anemones bloom more actively in the sun.

Air humidity

The moisture requirement is moderate for all types of anemone; they need additional moisture only on the hottest days. In damp areas, these flowers grow very well, provided there is good drainage - stagnation of water kills the plants. Tuberous anemones are particularly drought-resistant. The long-haired and forest varieties tolerate moisture deficiency for some time without harming flowering. In dry summers, it is advisable to spray anemones early in the morning or at sunset.

How to water correctly

All anemones prefer moist and light humus soils. In spring, water your flowers once a week. Anemones tolerate moisture deficiency well; they have a developed root system that allows them to remain viable for quite a long time. During the growth period and during the formation of buds, water the anemones daily if it is a hot, dry summer. Additional watering during rains is not required.

Complex mineral fertilizers are useful for new plantings of anemones, but only during the flowering period. If you fertilized the soil before planting, you don’t have to repeat this procedure in the future.

Mulching with humus or peat also has a good effect on fresh plantings. It is advisable to mulch with fallen leaves of maple, oak, linden and apple trees. The plants will be provided with forest-like litter, and this will have a positive effect on their condition.

Advice. If you are growing flowers to cut for bouquets, apply fertilizer when buds form.

During the period of active growth of stems and leaves, anemones need to be fed with fertilizers containing nitrogen and organic matter. When buds are being laid and flowers are opening, you can prolong flowering by applying complex mineral fertilizers rich in potassium, manganese and phosphorus.

Advice. Every year in spring and autumn, mulch the top layer of soil followed by loosening.

Trimming

It only makes sense to trim anemones if you want to make a bouquet out of them. The above-ground parts of this plant die off after flowering. It is not recommended to trim the leaves even after digging up anemones for wintering. Try not to disturb the flower unless necessary, so as not to disrupt its natural development.

Advice. If you have created a flower bed that has patches of anemones, try not to mow the lawn until the anemones have finished blooming.

In regions with mild climates, after flowering, tall anemone species can be cut back to ground level. In places where there are severe frosts, it is better to leave the stems for the winter, making sure to mulch them.

Anemone transplant

Anemones take root in a new place without problems. Spring anemones reproduce by rhizomes and grow quickly. If the anemones have spread too much and begun to crowd out the neighbors, you can stop them by replanting some of the plants. The optimal time for replanting is the middle of the season, while the leaves are green, but, if necessary, anemones can be replanted at the beginning of flowering, and even at its height. It is not necessary to dig up the entire plant; it is enough to remove the rhizomes with buds and plant them in well-moistened holes about 10 cm deep.

It is advisable to replant root-sprouting varieties in the spring, when the first shoots appear. At this time, pieces of roots with sprouts and buds are dug out and transplanted to the right place. Autumn replanting is not so easy, but if necessary, anemones can be replanted in early September.

Advice. Finding a plant after the end of the growing season can be difficult - do not miss the moment, dig up the anemones before the leaves completely dry out.

Plants transplanted in summer will bloom the following spring.

Transplantation in autumn

Anemones can be replanted in late August - early September. Dig out the entire area of ​​soil with anemones and disassemble them into fragments with rhizomes. If the roots are too long, carefully cut them - each part should contain several buds. It is advisable to sprinkle sections of rhizomes with crushed coal, but this condition is only necessary for tender anemone. Water and mulch the transplanted plants.

Reproduction

Anemones can be propagated by tubers, rhizomes or seeds.

Tuberous propagation

Tubers need to be divided when they are at rest - in July-August. Divide the tuber into parts so that a bud is on each fragment. When planting, determine the growth point - the top of the tuber is always flatter. Dig a hole 10 cm deep and about 30-40 cm in diameter, cover the bottom with a mixture of ash and humus, place part of the tuber, cover with soil, press down and water.

Propagation by seeds

Seed propagation is difficult for many garden species; seedlings germinate only after 2-3 years. Typically, anemones reproduce on site by self-seeding, but you can achieve the desired effect with planned sowing. The likelihood of getting full flowers increases when sowing fresh seeds collected in July (for early flowering varieties). Seeds are placed in boxes with fertile, loosened soil and buried in the ground in a shaded area. It is better to cover the soil with branches. In this way, you can propagate anemone before winter. Sprouts will appear in the spring of next year.

Wood anemone seeds can be added directly to loose and moist soil immediately after ripening. Cover the sowing site with branches to maintain soil moisture.

Attention! The germination rate of seeds for all varieties of anemones is low - no more than 25%.

Propagation by rhizomes

Species with a clearly defined rhizome are propagated by cuttings. After flowering ends, the rhizome is divided into parts, each of which is an annual growth with renewal buds. In most varieties, the buds are already formed in July-August, and next year the plant will develop and bloom.

Anemones with vertical rhizomes can be propagated by dividing the bush. It is better to do this in early spring or summer, after flowering. Each separated section of the root should have at least 2 renewal buds. In fertile, loose soil, plants take root very quickly.

Bloom

There are many species of these perennial plants; they are united by the absence of sepals on the flower. Petals, deprived of support, flutter at the slightest breath. Back in the 16th century, decorative varieties of anemones with double flowers were bred. In Russia, gardeners prefer to plant early-flowering species with long roots and one flower.

Flowers in the shape of their petals can resemble daisies or poppies. Spring anemones grow up to half a meter, and late varieties are predominantly short-growing. The flowers are large, from 4 to 8 cm, and can be collected in inflorescences. The color of the petals is very different: from snow-white and yellow to deep blue and crimson.

Depending on the variety, anemones bloom when the snow has not yet completely melted in the spring, or at the end of summer until late autumn.

Diseases and pests

Perennial anemones are almost not susceptible to disease and are not afraid of pests. A common problem with this plant is nematode, which causes rusty spots on the leaves. If you notice signs of disease, remove diseased plants and renew contaminated soil.

Popular types

The most common type. Perennial anemones grow up to 45 cm in height, blooming with large single or double flowers. The color palette is very diverse. Crown anemone blooms for several weeks in August-September.

A very tall autumn variety - up to 70 cm. Japanese anemone blooms for a long time and smells pleasant.

Blooms in April. Bland's tuberous anemones are the first to appear, sometimes pushing through the remaining snow.

Terry summer-blooming anemone up to 40 cm in height with large 8-cm flowers. Long flowering in July-September.

Anemone tender

A low tuberous plant (up to 15 cm) with flowers resembling daisies. Appears in early spring and blooms for about three weeks.

Unpretentious and disease-resistant varieties that bloom until late autumn. They thrive in partial shade on fertile soil.

Answers to readers' questions

Plant lifespan

Like all perennial herbaceous plants, the roots of anemones remain viable for many years, and the above-ground part dies off every year. Anemones of uncultivated species live up to 50 years in the natural environment. Garden flowers reproduce easily; self-seeding and propagation by roots often occur, so the life of the plant can be extended indefinitely. At the same time, it is necessary to create favorable conditions for anemones for wintering, because it is the flowers that are not protected from frost that often die.

Flower care in winter

Many anemones take root well in the conditions of central Russia; some can tolerate frosts with virtually no shelter for the winter. But some species, for example, crown anemone, are truly thermophilic, and their full development is possible in the south. To avoid losing anemones in the open ground due to severe frosts, cover the flowerbed in the fall with compost, leaves and old manure.

It is advisable to dig up some species, for example, tender anemone, for the winter. The fact is that heat-loving varieties suffer not only from frost, but also from excess moisture. After the leaves turn yellow, the tubers need to be dug up, dried and left in a cool place until planting. In October, break up large tubers and plant them in containers with loose, peaty soil. Dig the containers into the garden and cover them with foliage and plastic until spring.